Feal Coilover suspension install question

I purchased Feal coilovers and received them about a month ago. I�m going to install them in early July, once I finally finish chemo treatments. I have a 2002 996 that has a stock suspension with about 58K on it. Am I going to need adjustable drop links in order to get it properly aligned? Anything I might need/want to purchase before I start? I�d normally take a look before starting, but right now I don�t feel like jacking up the car to take a look. I�d like to get all the parts ready so I can get started as soon as I feel like it. I hate not feeling like working on cars. Looking forward to doing some wrenching!

Congrats on finishing your chemo from a fellow survivor! No, you won't need adjustable drop links to get an alignment. Depending on your mileage, "while you're in there" types of things might be to replace some of the related suspension bits, like track arms, lower control arms, or even the drop links, but you would be fine staying with the oem style. If the suspension isn't making a lot of thumps and creaks, you might be fine leaving the rest of it alone, and replacing it down the line if/when it gives you trouble. Good luck!

Drop links don�t really effect alignment per se�. It really depends on how much you lower the car. You want to be sure that your sway bars are �unloaded� when the car is sitting on a level surface. Fixed drop links make this difficult or impossible once the car is lowered. So, the short answer is; yes you�ll probably need adjustable drop links.

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I have the Feal Road Race coilovers and have been very happy with them. As said above your drop links don't affect alignment, but yes you should get adjustable drop links for them. I went with Tarrett drop links. You CAN use the stock drop links but depending on your ride height you won't be able to get the sway bar end setup correctly parallel to the ground. Good choice on the Feal coilovers, they are a great product and customer service from Feal was excellent for me. I installed them myself and had no issues at all. Sorry to hear about the chemo.

Thanks for the info! I’ll add the Tarret drop links afterwards if it’s not going to cause problems right away. I don’t plan on lowering much at all. This is my daily driver. But I’d like to be able to autocross or take it to the track occasionally. Thats why I wanted something adjustable. I plan on installing the coilovers myself, and trying to set my own alignment. I have a quality Schwaben camber gauge and wheel mount kit, and Tenhulzen toe plates, so I have the tools. I just need to figure out how to do a proper alignment. I’ll probably see how close i can get it, and then take it to someone else to get it done right for the street. Thanks for the well wishes! Only 3 more weeks to go. The hardest part is not feeling like playing out in the garage...or even going for a drive.

After lots of research I did a string alignment to my car. Very happy. Been a year with no visual abnormal wear.

I�ve got different coilovers but they aren�t that low . I found I needed adjustable toe links in the rear . I tried running the stock links for a while at the max of the adjustment and after a while the bent slightly . So I added tarret toe links , and in the Frount I added adjustable drop links because using the stock ones results in a lot of sway bar preload I wish I had added the toe and drop links when I put the coilovers on

With the long weekend, and my being caught up on customer’s cars, today is the day that I finally install my Feal coilovers. I bought adjustable front drop links and adjustable rear toe links. I've got a new set of control arms handy in case I find any needing replacement. I also picked up new plastic shields for above the struts that I plan on cutting holes large enough that I can adjust the rebound without having to remove the shields. I’ll keep a set as it came from the factory. I also have a set of GT3 brake ducts. Glad I found them for cheap, they really are not a lot larger than the ones already on the car. Definitely not needed for on the street. The car is up in the air and I got a chance to look underneath the front. The �ro control arm I installed in front last year look ok. I haven’t checked the others. It appears that the ride height is going to lower 1.5” with the coilovers set to their maximum height. I think that will look great. I can’t believe these coilovers have been waiting to be installed for around 4 months. BTW, I had my first post-treatment checkup last week and the doctor said there’s no cancer.

Hello TexSquirrel, Do you have pictures of the install that you could share? I will begin my install after vacation and once I get all this fishing season over with. So with a 1 inch drop that I am shooting for, I guess I'll go look for some adjustable drop links too. Thank you, Vincent.

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I�ll try to remember to take pictures as I work today. Starting after church. It appears that you�ll have to drop at least 1.5 inches. Thats using the included 30mm spacers. But I�ll get more accurate measurements when I get the old Bilsteins out.

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That's the best post I have seen in a long time. Congrats.

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Agreed, fantastic news!

Congrats on the check up!

Sorry, I always seem to forget to take pictures when I'm working on cars. But I can give you my experience and advice. I've done strut R&R on lots of different vehicles. (In fact the day before yesterday I did a strut & shock R&R on a Honda Odyssey) If you're considering installing Feal coilovers on your 996, I suggest you have the following: 1) A friend to help You can accomplish 95% by yourself, but you'll need someone's help when you're installing the new struts...unless you can be both above and below your car at the same time 2) Air tools Impact wrench always makes the job easier 3) Prybar To get the rear strut bottom mount free 4) Jack and jack stands Do it safely or don't do it! 5) Deep and shallow sockets, ratchet, and open end wrenches Make sure you have 10mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 22mm10mm socket -for Bose bracket inside the car.15mm deep socket -for the rear strut top nuts(3 per side)16mm, 18mm, 22mm wrenches/sockets -for the control arms and tie rods19mm wrench ---used it somewhere I think. Adjustable front drop links perhaps?14mm deep socket - I think was the correct size of the front strut top nuts (3 per side) 6) Narrow 14mm open end wrench for front drop links 7) Ratcheting 17mm open end wrench for rear drop links non-ratcheting ok, just a little ( or a lot ) slower 8) rubber dead blow hammer 9) Ball joint removal tool to remove front control arm and tie rod from wheel carrierDon't use a pickle fork, use the correct tool. 10) punch used to drift the rear struts bottom bolt out 11) Regular hammer (use to hit the punch) 12) Cheater pipe for bolts without space for an impact wrench 13) Magnetic pickup tool You need this for ANYTHING you ever do to a car 14) 5+ hours spare time It took me just under 6 hours with three 15 minute breaks.I also installed adjustable drop links and adjustable rear toe links 15) Somewhere to get an alignment Feal coilovers are a LOT lighter than most struts, including the factory Porsche struts. They were a real relief after doing the HEAVY Honda struts on Saturday. I installed the 16mm spacer on the front coilovers. I left the coilovers at their maximum height. The Feal coilovers lowered my car more than I'd expected and wanted, but I guess I can live with it. I think the front height is slightly higher than the rear, but I'm going to wait until after my alignment to measure and possibly lower the front any more. I went to a place that had been recommended and they told me they no longer do Porsche alignments. The car was pretty sketchy to drive there and back. I hope to get an alignment somewhere tomorrow.

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Congrats on the clean checkup! Couple of comments/questions. On 1) I found it fairly painless to do suspension swaps solo. Never hurts to have a third hand though. On 9) which ball joint separator tool did you get to work for the rear LCAs? I couldn't get my good separator (like this: Amazon Amazon ) to work on my rear LCAs. Ended up using a pickle fork separator. Didn't end up damaging anything except a couple dings in the old LCAs. But it would be real easy to tear a boot, or gouge the arm if you're not careful.

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I used the jaws from that tool mated to the arm of the black harbor freight tool (which has narrower jaws) and that worked great for me. The OTC arm didn't want to stay on the ball joint stud and push down but the HF version is longer.

1) In the rear you have to be inside the car to fasten the nuts. It�s easier to have someone hold the strut up for you than to strap it to a jack or something else. Front, you can reach under and hold it and tighten one but from above to hold it. But it is much simpler to have them hold the strut for you. Also it is nice to have someone to hand you tools or to handle simple tasks. My friend has done struts before re so I could have turned him loose on one side while I did another. But we were not in a hurry. It was more fun talking that just working. That slowed us down a bit. 9)I have both a 2 piece set (OTC or OEMTools?) and the Harbor Freight larger one. I just checked and it looked like I used my HF one. (The others are in a different toolbox) It tried to slip off but once I changed the angle slightly I was able to make it work.

Good to know Steve and Tex. I'll be checking out the HF tool so i have a longer reach arm.

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Hello TexSquirrel, Thank you for the checklist. I do believe I have everything I need to get started. I was lucky to just barely tap the side of the LCA to get them to loosen out of their spot on my Boxster S suspension rebuild. I am hoping this 996 will be the same. As for the impact air tools, I have an old Milwaukee V18 cordless drill using 3/8 and 1/2 adapters to get out all those nuts. Let me add 16) Beer and Radio Thank you, Vincent.

I removed the rear coilovers today. They’re just too low for me to use the 996 as a daily driver. They dropped the rear by 4.5 inches. (See the photo below) I tried to lengthen them, and got one to budge, but the other just wont budge at all. I bent up both special tools trying. Used an attached breaker bar, and a cheater pipe. The lock ring edges break off instead of the lock ring moving. I’m going to contact Feal and see what they say. I definite had a beer or two afterwards both days. Also I have an Amazon Alexa in the garage, so I was streaming classic rock on Sunday, and praise and worship music today.

In the middle of the night last night, I realized I could use an airhammer to knock the one stubborn locking loose. It worked! Now I’m about to reinstall the Feal rear coilovers. ...after lunch and a few errands. I‘ve done lots of strut and shock R&Rs, but this is my first time dealing with coilovers. It’s been a learning experience.

4.5" drop is just ridiculous!...Are you sure they sent you the right parts? Seems crazy... Good luck, I hope it works out for you

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This. I can't see these being the right parts.

Not having installed coilovers, I thought the rears were at maximum height, like the front ones, when I first installed them on Sunday. Yesterday I pulled the rear coilovers and reinstalled the stock shocks. Once I figured out how to adjust them last night, I decided to reinstall them today. I finished in about two hours. They are not at the maximum height, but close. I�m very happy with the height. It is about 1.25 inches lower than stock. I might have liked a little lower in back, but I�m done messing with these this week. They set the dampening on 15 clicks (out of 30) I set it 5 click softer all around. I think that will be better for daily driving. Between farting around with these and working on other people�s cars, I�m looking forward to a nice quiet weekend with my wife. I�ll take it some place tomorrow to get it aligned. Front set at maximum with 16mm spacer Rear set about 1� from maximum height.

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Those need to be dropped a little - unless you�re planning on doing the Baja next week

I got it aligned and it drives SO much better. I‘m finally happy with the coilovers. I might lower it another inch or so.(maybe more in back) But I think I‘ll drive it as-is for a while.

The problem is, when you drop it (even an inch) the geometry changes and you�ll need to get it aligned again. Could get expensive pretty quickly Enjoy for awhile then decide

TexSquirrel, How awesome is it to be back wrenching again! You’ll probably get addicted to the crisper turn-in and feel with the lower CG and wider track up front with an M030 ROW/GT3 height and alignment. I find the comfort of ride to be just fine with the slightly more aggressive, but still stockish numbers. I do have a bit of NVH with semi-solids and trans bushing, but it is a sports car and I enjoy it.

Yeah, I�ll probably drive it as-is for a while. I kinda ran out of time and needed to get it assigned so I could drive it to work tomorrow. Thats the problem with using it as a daily driver. My wife had an accident last Monday and ended up with a concussion. She has not been able to drive, so I had to play mini-van taxi driver for my 85 year old father-in-law and my mother-in-law. He had radiation treatments in the medical center area this week. Therefore I was off work so I didn�t need my car. But I�m back to work tomorrow. Yesterday was my last chance to get it aligned. Two places that I took it declined to align a Porsche. I figured if they didn�t want to do it, I didn�t want them to either. One place is owned by a PCA member. I�m going to mention it to him that his guys didn�t want to align it. He told me they could do anything I wanted to it and he would give me a discount. That was before he I told him I do all my own work and that I was a VW and Porsche technician back in the mid 90s. Now I work on everything, but mainly it is �mainstream� cars. Although I work on a lot of BMWs. (N54 performance mods mainly)

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haha Baja. But back to business. Yes, the pic of comparison looks super short aftermarket vs. stock. So I have to get the ride height just right before getting an alignment or it will cost me $120 every time I bring it to my Indy. Thanks for the pictures. My fridge decided to blow a relay and I have to fix that this week, then I bought a boat. Now I go to work on that afterwards, rebuilding the outboard carburetors. Trying to stay away from the classifieds until I get things done. Thank you, Vincent

I have alignment tools, so if it only changes a little when I lower it, I can get it back in spec. But for now, I'm going to concentrate on center radiator, deep sump kit, and some newer tires. I won't lower it more until I get closer to taking it on the track. I'm going to do all the normally recommended preventative mods before taking to the track. It drives great, and really done't look like a Baja 911. (Although a Baja 996 would be pretty cool!) The phots make it look like a 4x4, but IRL it looks ok. Just a little lower than the stock height.

How does the suspension ride? I had them on a 996 and it road terrible but I think I might have just gotten a bad set. Sending them back to feals for a rebuild and hopefully that issue is not still happening.

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If you read a few post's up. he said they feel great. Did you play with your settings?

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Tex, I've been reading a bunch of posts on coilovers and whether we need adjustable drop links. This week, I've been slowly installing my new Feal 441s and replacing all suspension components along the way. The fronts are done with the exception of the drop links. I tried putting on the stock ones, but when I tried to remove it (I put the 16mm spacer on one side and the other didn't ... wanted to see which ride height I preferred knowing I'd have to go back to one side later), I couldn't. Did you end up getting adjustable drop links for the front and rear? Also, I think I read in another post that you got adjustable rear toe control arms. What that necessary or did the stock ones have enough adjustment to get the toe back to factory spec? Any other aftermarket adjustable component I may need to get the alignment properly set up? Thanks!!!

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You'll probably need adjustable drop links in front depending upon how you adjust the coil overs. I'm near stock height and found that it made final adjustments much easier/possible. I went with these due to cost: https://www.vividracing.com/spl-pro-...151567390.html In the rear I used my factory non-adjustable drop links and they work fine. But if you're dropping the height much you might need adjustable back there too. I bought these adjustable toe arms: https://www.vividracing.com/torque-s...150724394.html But I didn't need them in order to get the car aligned correctly. So I still have them for if/when I decide to drop my car. Since my 996 is my daily driver(with speed bumps pot holes, & parking stops) I left it at near stock height. If my work situation changes someday(As-if COVID & new job hasn't already been a huge change) then I might drop it a little bit. During COVID, I'm only working 2 days at the new job's office(with speed bumps ) and 3 days from home. But that will likely change, and I'll have to start going to client sites. I've been tempted to buy another vehicle for DD when I'm going to client sites, but so far I haven't.

Tex, Thanks for the response. I decided to go max height in the front without the spacers, so it dropped the fronts about 1" and I plan on doing the same in the rear. I spoke with Tarett and the engineer said the 996s have a lot of camber and toe adjustment so he didn't think an adjustable toe arm was necessary. I'll definitely plan on the adjustable drop links and roll the dice on the toe arms. If it doesn't align, then I'll bite the bullet (for the arms and another alignment).

I'm at max height in front with the spacers.

How far done into the spindle are the fronts supposed to sit? Can someone snap a pic for me.

The amount into the front spindle depends entirely on your desired ride height. It should be seated fully to the lower adjustment collar. I can snap a pic or two of my car's height and where the collar is this weekend and post, so you have an idea of a dropped height.

I just finished installing the Feal coilovers and put everything back together. The fronts are at max height WITHOUT the 16mm spacers. The rears are 35 threads in. I think the front is too low and will be installing the spacers tomorrow. The rears are at a good height, so I won't change it. I also figure they will settle in a bit lower over time, so I have to factor that into my decision. As it is, the fronts will hit the wheel well on full compression I live in LA where the certain roads can be pretty bad. 95% of my daily commute is on highways so that's not a problem. But some LA city roads aren't well kept and I'm concerned that the fronts this low will be problematic. Please excuse the dirty car ... I literally just finished and snapped these photos.

Yep, if you go up in front, you’ll want to go up in the rear too.

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Your front looks about like mine do. I have no issues whatsoever at that height with the FEALs. In fact, I will probably take them down about a half inch one day. No problem with rubbing at all, and I have 15mm spacers at all four corners. Why do you think it's too low? That is about the height of the ROW cars from the factory, is it not? Don't install coilovers and leave a big gap!

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I'm planning to go with these coilovers and looking to go 1.25" - 1.5" lower all around. I know Tex mentioned going with SPL Pro adjustable front end links, but have others who have gone with lowering a similar amount had to get adjustable rear end links or rear toe arms as well? I also have 15mm spacer front and rear. Hoping to have everything I need on hand for the install in a few weeks.

I dont have coilovers but 1.5" drop springs and my car needed adjustable dogbones in back. It did not need adjustable towbars but i put them on since the old ones had aged out anyways.

How low can you go before you need adjustable links/arms?

That's a great question. I'm not sure how you could determine that since every vehicle/setup is going to be slightly different. When I eventually lower mine I'll just go ahead and install the adjustable toe links. Then I won't have to worry about it. But I already own them, so the $ has already been spent.

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I was going to drop mine 1/2 inch today then get an alignment, but don't want to open a can of worms.

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But worms are fun! I'd be surprised if 1/2 caused a problem, but who knows.

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But you still may need adjustable rear drop links to go with those toe arms, right Bruce (assuming you're planning to lower the rear as well)?

Yep, I might. I need to pick some up to have just in case.

Fyi i am using stock sway bar links with my 1.5" drop springs front and back

Tex, I don't mean to sidetrack your thread but thought my question/issue might help other FEAL owners. I can't get the damn things to lower! Lol...On paper it looks simple but I must be doing something wrong. Unlock lower collar, move them up and I can't get the shock/strut to turn down any. Am I missing something?

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So I was puzzled too when trying to adjust height. For the fronts, it's easy as you unlock the lower collar and raise or lower as needed. The rears are more complicated (and I confirmed with Mike at Feal). The 441s for the 996 are unique in that you cannot follow the instructions that came with the coilovers. You have to remove the coilover from the wheel hub, and turn the lower body to raise or lower ride height. Alternatively, what I did was unbolt the top mounts, lowered the wheel hub to clear the bolts and adjusted ride height that way. You can adjust the fronts while they are installed but you cannot with the rears installed. This makes it harder as it becomes an iterative process.

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Correct. The bottom rotates on the rear. You�ll have to partially uninstall the rears. The Front can be adjusted without any uninstall

Thanks guys! Glad I didn't try to force anything.

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I have adjustable rear toe arms, GT3 rear LCA, and adjustable rear end links. Front us stock for now, but I plan on upgrading and replacing parts soon.

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Thanks for the additional info. How much did you lower the car? Did you find that the rear adjustable end links were required based on your chosen ride height? It�s seems like staying around factory height let�s you get away with stock end links but at some point adjustable end links are required (maybe even rear toe arms) depending on how much the car is lowered. I�m trying to gauge whether I can get by with stock end links with lowering ~1 inch all around.

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I'm lowered with my fenders to the top of the tires. Front fender is probably about 1/2 inch higher than the tire and it bothers me. I'll fix it eventually, but shop that did the alignment and corner balancing made the heights even at all corners geometrically as opposed to even aesthetically, if that makes sense. I don't think any of the parts I changed were 100% necessary. Different shops/techs prefer different methods to get the alignment in spec. I was thinking they would recommend adjustable dog bones, but they said they had bump steer issues with them in the past and prefer using GT3 LCAs. I had my reservations internally, but I really didn't care what they did as long as the car drove straight, plus I needed new LCAs anyway. That shop does a lot of race work on 911s and 996s specifically, so I trusted them and the car does drive great, so I'm happy. Long story short, you probably can get away without most of what I did. I'm lowered about 2 inches all around, so if you are going less than that, the probability of you needing what I have is even less. I will say that aesthetically, I would not want my car any higher than what it is if I went through the effort of putting on coilovers. Stock height looked goofy. It looks and handles proper now.

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I agree, the car looks off at the stock ride height and I can see myself going as low as my driveway will let me without scraping (which probably won't be more than an inch and a half). I think I'll bite the bullet on the adjustable end links for starters to go along with the coilovers. Although potentially not necessary now, they will be if I upgrade sway bars in the future and I'd like the ability to go lower than I'm anticipating if I'm not satisfied with lowering only an inch.

I am looking at the Feal 441+ kit and have some questions. Hopefully at least one of you guys can help. ** Keep in mind - I want to RAISE ride height over stock. The target is around +1 inch. a) the reason for the + is to go with max travel. I am expecting this will reduce the risk of the shock "topping out" in full rebound and be more compatible with increased ride height. Any idea on the difference between max travel vs. default? b) what is the purpose of the "shock covers"? If intended to keep dirt and debris from fouling the adjustment threads, it would be worthwhile for my application. c) It looks as though I need to go with the Swift springs with the 441+. I did not see specs on spring rates. Does anyone know those values? I have a note in to Feal, with some of these questions, but wouldn't mind comments from some end-users.

2) I didn't buy the shock covers. I assume it is to keep the threads clean. 3) I have Swift springs and they're 700# in the front and 1100# in the rear.

Scott, I would give Mike "sales manager" a call and talk to him about what you need, I can tell you these kits are made to order and take approx. 3 weeks to build, I just bought 2 kits last week for the kid and my car. be sure to tell him you would like free shipping.

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That's what I figured, on the covers. I would get them. Those spring rates are way too much for my needs. I assume you can specify what you want. I kind of forgot about the three hour time difference. He just replied and indicated that the kit would not be suitable for RallyCross or off-road use. I'll probably stick with Bilstein shocks and look for ways to increase ground clearance with spacers.

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The only difference between the 441 and 441+ is the Swift springs, so it's not that you have to go Swift with the 441+... it's that the 441+ is the Swift spring upgrade. I have the 441 with the regular springs. I like them a lot, but I do wonder if the swift springs would have been any different.

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It looks as though the max travel feature is only available with the 441+.

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When I bought mine in early 2018 they only offered the Swift springs. I wonder if the regular springs would be any different. Ha! If I were to buy a set for another 996, I'd likely go with the Feal springs.

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Scott, maybe find out and talk to the guys that built the "Safari 996" https://bringatrailer.com/2018/12/08...911-carrera-2/

For those that have gone with coil overs, what’s your measurement from pavement to fender lip, middle of tire. I have stock shocks and lower springs. Measurement is currently ~25.5 inches, front and rear. On smooth pavement ride is pretty good. On some jagged concrete streets, it’s hop, skip and jump! I’ve always wanted to get some coil overs because I thought they would have a much better ride. Now I wonder.

I was about to pull the trigger on Pss10 vs ROW M30 due to price increase of the ROW. Feal coilovers seems a good compromise for street use, plus getting a slight drop like the ROW. I want something for the street as the car will see more street then track. Dont want to high jack this thread but Im all hears for springs choice and following this thread due to Feal awesome price versus other setups.

another affordable option that just became available for the 996. Just installed Reinharte R1 and went with 6k/8k spring rates, Ramped them over some good jumps on the way to work today for some testing and they did a wonderful job lol. Awesome customer service and hand built in the midwest.

Fairly close in pricing to the Feal system after adding options to Feal system, I went with adjustable bump stops on the rear, covers, radial bearings and remote adjustable cables for the rears.

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My C4S is at 24.5" fr 25" r. You'll have the ability to adjust dampening with coils. Your springs are probably too aggressive for the stock shock dampening.

Last weekend was successful for my Feal coilovers installation. Thanks to TexSquirrel for the list of torques specifications. It took me about 5 hours to do the fronts on Saturday. I'm sure that is slow, but I was being cautious and had one strut fight me on coming out. I think the one was so worn out it wouldn't compress any making it difficult. The stock bump stops were destroyed. Sunday I got the rears installed in less than two hours. I also adjusted the GT3 sway bars to a softer setting as they were way too stiff for any street driving. Monday I had the car aligned putting everything to stock with the exception of getting -1.8� camber in the front. I figured this is a good compromise for a car driven 95% of the time on the street. Overall initial impression is I'm very happy. The ride is greatly improved with better feel. I have the struts set at 24 clicks and think this is a good place to start. I have an autocross coming the end of the month and will play with the settings then. I highly recommend these to anyone interested.

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agree on the timeline to install except add some time for extra disassembly and reassembly on the front end of a C4. They feel great. So tight set at 15/30 but I went with 5/30 for the third world streets of Richmond Va. I really noticed (or my inexperience observed) that the car seemed to go from oversteer to understeer when I dialed down to 5/30. Not sure if that�s real but maybe someone can confirm or refute. Felt pretty good when my mechanic aligned it and said all was well. A great project overall.

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It depends upon what you define as 0 and 30. If 0 to you is fully soft, and 30 is fully stiff (which is how I define it) then to increase oversteer you would want higher number in back. But since you're seeing increased understeer with 5/30, I assume you're defining 180deg opposite from me. Here's are ways to increase oversteer: Raise front tire pressure Lower rear tire pressure Soften front shocks and stiffen bump Stiffen rear shocks Lower front end Raise rear end Install wider front tires Install narrower rear tires Soften front sway bar Stiffen rear sway bar Increase front negative camber Increase positive caster Soften front springs Stiffen rear springs

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I live on a really twisty road so I am going to do laps, change an element and repeat. Should be lots of fun as long as I don�t end up in the river.

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Wow Tex. Thanks for the cheat sheet!

RDL, Gingerman and others who have gone with these, do you recall how much droop you ended up with? ( difference between unload and loaded, not the drop ). Do you hit the bumpstops in regular action?

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I have not hit the bumpstops and drive regularly on some bad roads. Mine measured about 26.5� from wheel well to the ground before the swap and is at 25.5� now after trying a couple different heights. I think that�s basically the height for the M030 suspension. I don�t recall the droop but will check it. this is among a few reasons I want to get the car back in the air (my quickjack set up is about an hour away). I want to get my drop links set up at the right lengths and recheck torque specs on everything. Hopefully soon and I can report back.

Thank you Gingerman. Did you go with the Feal springs or the Swifts?

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i bought the Feal 441 with Feal springs. I didn�t read anything that convinced me to upgrade. My goal was to replace the 20 year old original suspension for about the same price as renewing to OEM spec and maintain reasonable street comfort. What I gained as well is much flatter cornering. I have also enjoyed the adjustability and play with different combinations a lot.

Thanks G'Man. Would you (or anyone else with the Feal springs) be able to tell me the part number on the front spring?

Lambda, I installed the 441 set also. Started with 26.25 wheel well to ground and now have 25.25 in the front and 25.75 in the rear. I don't hit the bump stops at all. Really like this setup.

Hoping to get Feals over the winter as a project while the car is in hibernation

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interdasting

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Starting to map out my budget here. My main goal with the install is to replace the worn components (hopefully ride improves slightly by doing this as it can be a little clunky now) and get a nice drop. I am almost certain this car will never hit the track so I don't need anything wild. I was also looking at the Bilstein B8 Performance Plus/H&R spring combo, but that may be a little more money and would still need additional parts. Just glancing at their form, how did you guys order yours? Add bump stops in front/rear? Probably pass on covers since it is just a sunny day car. Not sure on radial bearing and extended damping adjusters. I am also planning on adjustable drop links and I think I need to go ahead and refresh all the control arms, etc. I have them saved in my cart on ECS. Just trying to budget now so see how bad the damage is going to be.

This is what I went with, very much enjoy the system, I did go with covers not needed, I went with extended adjusters, doesn't work on rear of cabriolet to short, not needed unless tracking., also got the radial bearings for front hat, would order again nice and smooth action, I did get the adjustable bumps stop for the rear, I run 295/19 rear tire and 18 fronts, works great, wouldn't need it if running 18's on street, when you order them be sure to ask for free shipping and a t shirt. I started my adjustments at 23 front and 25 rear, works great

Thank you! I plan to set it and forget it hopefully once it is set unless something major needs tweaked. So looks like I will use the coilovers, bumpstops and radial bearing upgrade then.

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I wonder if I should have gotten the adjustable bump stops. My car rides great and smooth on everything except very few particular circumstances. It might not even be something that can be fixed on coilovers with basically zero wheel gap like I run. I tried to buy the adjustable bump stops and Swift springs twice and the guys at Feal actually talked me out of it. Said I didn�t need it. Still... I wonder. Car rides very well as is, though, so looking to tune out that last tiny bit of harshness is probably a fool�s errand. How low are you and how�s your ride quality?

Extended adjusters are not necessary. A lot of the options were not available when I bought mine. I’m very happy with my setup.

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I am very low with one finger space and ride is great.

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Thanks. Mine rides great as well. Only minor complaint is on expansion joints and rough patches there can be some slight crashiness. I'm not sure if it's reasonable to expect to be able to tune that out on coilovers. How is yours under those conditions? I'm at comparable ride height and damper settings to you.

Are you guys installing the fronts with or without the collars to achieve fender height?

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John - I think that is the best looking cab I have ever seen. Its amazing how wheels and a slam transform for me, what is not the best looking car on the planet if I'm being nice. I double apologize for the OT and reposting a picture but GD that car looks good. Well played my friend.

I went with collars and all the way up (less maybe 1/8 of an inch to allow balancing it out). Front dropped 3/4 of an inch over my old tired stock setup.

I used the collar.

I didn't

I also used the collar. Might go a little lower whenever I get around to a corner balance, but even then I'd probably still keep the collar.

I’ve installed 2 other sets of Feal coilovers (C2 & C4) and they did not want to use collars. Their 996s set even lower than mine, but they’re not daily drivers.

I used the collars on the front of mine. It sits at 25.5 from middle of the fender to the ground. I don�t want to be any lower than that. Joey

I will be installing mine this weekend ! Pictures to follow

Install went great, easy job and the ride quality is amazing. I�m shocked at how much the adjustable dampening allows you dial the ride feel. However I have a strange phenomenon happening when I fine tune the ride height. I used the spacer collar and set both fronts at max height. After a drive around the block at measured ground to fender arch and the pass side was 25.25� and driver side was 25.5�. I lowered the driver side 1/4� and took it around the block. Now the driver side is 25.25� but the pass side lowered to 25�. Every time I lower the driver side the pass side lowers as well�..any ideas ? I haven�t adjusted the rear ride hight yet but they are also within 1/4 � of each other at 25.75�

abossana - Have you aligned yet? Don�t worry too much about ride height until camber and caster are set. Also, corner balance will change things a little. What�s driver and passenger side heights with driver in car?

no alignment yet. I was hoping to get the height dialed in to my liking before taking it in.

Do I need droplinks with the FEAL 441 for a 996TT? If so, should I get for front and rear or just rear?

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I'm not a pro, desirable but not essential. Is sway bar preload a concept that bothers you? The FEALS will be a stand alone gain. FEALs definately lower the car. If you are going to enjoy the adjustability of the FEALs, do you want to go with adjustable sways front and rear? Then adjustible rear toe arms? Given you have so much power with a turbo, adjusting suspension could be your new car preoccupation...

Hope this isn't too off topic but I'm looking at Feals after driving awhile on H&R springs. While I like the look of the H&R setup, and while the feel isn't too harsh, it's just a little lower than I'd like. For those who have experience with both H&R springs and Feal coilovers, does the Feal setup allow higher ride height than the H&Rs? I assume yes, but would appreciate confirmation. Any other side by side comparisons would be appreciated.

Feals can run higher if you want. You just need to install the spacer in the front which allows the shock body to sit higher in the front hub assembly. Then you can use the normal range of adjustment to dial it to where you want. I would recommend this to everyone honestly. I originally installed mine without the spacer, and you don’t get much usable range without it. I believe TexSquirrel is running his setup pretty close to stock ride heights. He is very happy with his setup.

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Thanks for this q&a. I've been meaning to ask the same question, namely can you run coilovers and still maintain stock us or even at a minimum, row ride height? good modern coilovers should give a smoother more damped ride then B4s, the tech has come a long way. I don't want to lower or aerokit my car though, I like the base Carrera look. If I can have my cake and eat it too, maybe coilovers are in my future. Far in the future ☺️

Yes, mine is at near stock height. But I’m considering lowering it since it’s no longer a daily driver.