Fluctuating oil level

Please, can someone shed some light on this issue. I've noticed that the oil level readout varies widely. When the car is cold, it will read that the oil level is almost to the top. After driving for a while and then stopping to re-fuel, the display says that the oil level is only 2 bars from the bottom (still in the acceptable range but much different reading). I thought that the engine computer took into account whether the car was cold or hot and then calibrated the oil level readout based on that. Is this something for me to worry about? When the car is cold tonight, I'll take a look at the actual dipstick reading to see what it says.

Lots of previous threads on this issue. Electronic level does vary a lot depending on time, temperature, car position, etc. Just pick a specific spot that you are on everyday that is reasonably level, a time of day that you can always depend on being at that spot, and a car condition where all the oil has dfinitely all drained back down. Hot or cold engine doesn't really matter. I do mine first thing every am, cold engine, on my reasonably flat garage floor, and it has been consistent and reliable.

...umm, guys - the manual says that the engine should be at normal running temp (i.e. HOT) before an oil-level reading is taken with the dipstick.

[quote]Originally posted by jason latif: <strong>...umm, guys - the manual says that the engine should be at normal running temp (i.e. HOT) before an oil-level reading is taken with the dipstick.</strong><hr></blockquote> I know. Unfortunately, the combination of a hot engine, even ground, sufficient time for all the oil to drain, available time to wait for all the oil to drain, just doesn't come around very often. The countdown for the electronic level doesn't cut it. I've parked the car, turned the engine off, turned the key, and waited patiently for the countdown to finish, then get a reading. I then turn the key to off, and do it all over again, and I get a difrerent reading, usualy higher. I've actually kept doing this at one time until I got the reading to stabilize. I'ts fun to play with a new Porsche ! It's the exact same reading I'll get in the next am with a cold engine. Don't have much to do this Saturday except sit around in front of the computer .

Thank you so much Palting. Checking with the dipstick gave me about 1/2 full reading which is a couple of bars down from the totally cold reading and couple of bars up from hot-engine reading! Another quick question: I was a bit worried about the engine burning oil during break-in and got couple of bottles of oil from the dealer. He gave me Mobil 1 "European Car Formula" 0w40. I have always used 5w30 in winter time. I think the manual makes reference to using 5w40. Any opinions on this?

I believe that 0w40 Mobil One is the standard fill and recommended refill on all new Porsches. Your lucky that's what your dealer gave you. Some of them are still trying to sell off their old stock. The 0w40 will be better cold weather protection than a 5wXX grade, so it would be preferred for winter anyway. Karl

Yes, Porsche wants you to use Mobil 1 0W-40 in all the 996's (not just the 02's).

Look, Porsche has never made an oil-level guage that can be trusted. If you want to know your oil level you must follow the PITA Procedure i.e. dipstick/hot/level ground. If the fluctuation bothers you, just put some black electricians tape over the oil-level guage. Cheers, Chris

I have been monitoring my car dipstick oil level (always hot, and level) and everyday it gives a drastically different reading. Sometimes full, sometimes empty. I even have a printout with miles, temp and dipstick level. Any idea what would cause this? is the oil not circulating, or clogging?

Jd Next time it shows "Empty" ,remove the drain plug. I'll bet you get the full quantity of oil out.Measure it precisely.9 qts? If not, there is something that intermittently blocks the oil returning to the sump ? That would trigger a low oil pressure warning. Do you get that warning or low oil pressure on the gauge? The other WAG is that the oil is foaming . But let's get more data first. BTW what specific brand/type/weight of oil is in the car. Does it smoke after a fast run through twisty roads??

IIRC, Raby suggests that the only good, true reading from the dipstick is when the reading is taken after the car has been sitting for an extended period, preferably 24 hours.

^^jh beat me to it! I think Jake says a minimum of 24 hours...

Reviving a 14 year old thread! Is that a record?

Thank you very much for your time! I was getting low oil warning lights so my mechanic replaced the oil pressure sending unit. He put in swepco 15w 40 synthetic oil. That is when I started recording oil levels at the dip stick.

15- W oil????? Are you in a very,very hot environment ? Check in Search. The usual recommendation is 5w- or even 0w-

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Same stuff my indy put in mine after my clutch/IMS upgrade.

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Sure it wasn't 5W40 - that's what LN recommends with the IMS Retrofit or IMS Solution.

Never even look at that stupid gauge unless the car has been sitting static for several hours, or overnight. Doing so will do nothing except worry you, make you scratch your head, and **** you off. I have to fight with this with every engine we build.. Everyone is overly concerned- don't be!

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Pretty sure it's 15. Also from the LN site: "Swepco 306 15w40 is one such example of an extraordinary diesel oil favored by many Porsche engine builders. Swepco 306 has a healthy dose of boron and moly also for additional ant-wear response. Additionally, Swepco is among the minority of lubricant manufacturers choosing to manufacture and market the newer CJ-4 rated oils along since previous CI-4 and earlier lubricants to address the requirements of older engines rather than forcing backwards compatibility in fleet service." And: "That's why we recommend Brad Penn Racing oils and Swepco 306, both of which aren't fully synthetic. They get the job done and have been proven to perform better than most fully synthetic oils in overstressed Porsche engines."

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Don't confuse AirCooled Porsche engines with water cooled Porsche engines... Two different worlds. They share nothing.

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Yeah, Jake finally replied to one of my oil comments! I had been considering going with the JG next oil change. Your reply just sealed the deal.

I wonder how many times people claim LN/Jake recommend something and they are wrong regarding the M96 ? Or their mechanic is old school and just uses the same oil he uses in all the air-cooled, or old Mercedes - after all, they are all German - right ? And even if Swepco has a 5W-40 ,how could you discover what additive package it has an what it means,what the differences are and what their significance is and.... how it matches the requirements of the M96 -which are what ? Very few people can answer any of these questions authoritatively. Few know what questions to ask, fewer have tested the alternatives or understand the peculiar lubrication needs of the M96 .I don't .So I listen to those that do.Weird I know.

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People misconstrue things all the time... They haphazardly read things and process it in a screwed up way... Then they sure it. That's the major problem with online information sharing.

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This is also what the owners manual for my 2000 996 says. So I check it every morning cold. I also find that if 15 minutes passes when the engine is hot...going to the market for a quick errand...I will get the same reading. One thing to be aware of is that short trips does not burn off the moisture that can collect in a crankcase and this can add volume to your oil level. I think this is the advantage taking a reading from a fully warm engine that has been driven awhile and then let rest. However I find it easier to get a reading in my 996 than I did in my dry sump 993.