AC delete from '99 C2

Any advice or tips? Looks like a bear of a job and having problems finding resources. Compressor was already deleted and system drained by PO. Just need to get he rest of it out now. Don't need to save any of it so I can cut parts out if I need to.

I can't help much but when you pull the condensers I think you can pull one of the fans too. I *think* most the track only guys do this. The fan only blocks flow when your driving fast. One fan keeps you cool enough while on grid. But verify this if you can.

Ok. Thanks jj.

Of course!

Are you going to keep the heater and defrost? This will make a big difference in how you approach the project.

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Nope. It all has to go. Specifically I haven't been able to figure out how to get the big black housing that contains the condenser and the condenser out. I've got the dash, blower motor and ducts removed already. Also, when I pull the heater core, do I need to cap off or connect together the hoses from it ? Thx!

In that case, the case housing bolts are accessed from the trunk side, If I remember there are 2 where the ac lines enter and 2 behind the battery. To remove the heater lines you have to remove the fuel tank. Whether or not you remove the lines, you have to loop back the heater tubes or the thermostat will not open correctly and it will overheat. If you remove the lines loop it back at the engine, If not loop it back at the firewall. You can remove the condenser's and one cooling fan.

This is HUGELY helpful. Thank you. I was missing the boat all together on where the condenser was, lol. But everything makes sense now. Headed to the lake this weekend with the family so sadly have to pull off the project but will jump back on it Sunday night.

In thinking this through, heater hoses would be worth removing if you consider they are filled with coolant. So fuel tank needs to be drained and dropped? Currently have half a tank, any easier way of draining than fuel pump method?

in a comprehensive write up about evac/refill of the cooling system, Ahsai noted that the last 1/2 gallon of coolant could be eliminated by using compressed air (heater core)

I'd be wary of how much of the piping/hoses you delete, since you will be reducing the overall coolant capacity by that same volume...as far as the heater core, I'd just be lazy and cross-connect the hoses after yanking out the core. If it's equipped (I can't remember if it's just the '99 C4 that has the fuel cooler), are you going to delete the fuel/AC heat exchanger?

Don't have the heat exchanger on my C2. It's a good point about the cooling but I'll remove them for simplicity sake. And that was the race shops recommendation as well, go figure. But removing them and the condenser are going to have to wait until after it gets back from the shop though. I'm lucky just to have the interior almost done.

[Edited] See post #19 instead

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Any concern of the fel pump method? Durametric can activate the fuel pump btw.

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I just didn't know if it was OK to use it with 7 or 8 gallons. Didn't even think about the Durametric. Great idea.

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Or crimp that bish to simulate a still-installed heater core. I keed. I keed.

There is no problem looping the hoses back ether at the engine or at the heater core. The circut cannot be blocked off it must remain in place or insuficant hot water will reach the thermostat and it will not open. no restriction is needed

3/4" copper plugs. Installation method recommended by Charlie Lacy at Innovative in Carrolton, TX. Dude was brilliant. More on him in other thread later.

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Slakker, have you checked with Charlie the way you capped off the lines will work fine? I went back to check my coolant path tracing. You can see there are two coolant return paths before the thermostat opens (after going through the cylinders and heads). The red path is via the front console (the oil pump housing) and the other is the back path via the heater core. Now this gets interesting. What if we cap off the black path? I think there are two possibilities: 1) The red flow rate increases and the overall coolant flow through the pump remains the same - this is the good case. 2) The red flow rate increases but it's not enough so the overall coolant flow rate through the pump reduces (imagine if the black path has a MUCH larger cross-section area than the red path). This is not a good case. I don't really know which way it will be so I defer to people with more knowledge and experience.

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Oh that will take a long time (1.7L per minute for 8gal = 18 minutes).

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Ahsai, the picture was from the engine of an SP996 build he is doing that I took while in his shop. He explained the coolant flow like you have in your diagram but I didn't understand it at the time. Now seeing your picture it makes a lot more sense.