37 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH996 turn indicator stalk issue
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect battery
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Disconnected battery and used T30 to remove airbag.
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect battery' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect battery' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Torqued wheel and airbag fasteners and blue loctite airbag bolts, reconnected battery, reset accelerator pedal, windows, clock, and put code in radio.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used M3 nuts and bolts for reassembly rather than new rivets (which were easily drilled out with a sharp bit).
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
BTW, I use screws and Loctite instead of rivets to put the cover back on.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Disconnected battery and used T30 to remove airbag.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
37 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T150451Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
My turn indicator stalk just fell to the dreaded 996 faulty stalk issue - the right turn won't hold. I read the posts I could find - most discussing how to replace it - one or two stated it wasn't possible to repair. I don't handle bad news well. Can someone please dispute those posts? The Youtube videos show the steps to removing and replacing the unit, but it's a $450 part, new, or take a chance on a used one, still at least $100. WHY can't I repair it? It looks like there are a handful of rivets holding the metal box together - I can drill those out.. then surely it's just some damn piece of plastic that I can super-glue back together, right? Has anyone tried that? I do NOT want to spend $400 on this part right now, or anytime this decade.
It is not repairable. I have taken it apart and looked. A tab has broken on the stalk inside the box. And because It is an oily plastic, and under stress, you can't glue it. Sorry ...
Could you 3d print a new plastic piece in less than 4 hours? If you had a 3d printer, and could replicated the part in less than 4 hours, considering $100 per hour, you could come out ahead.....
I have what i believe to be a working used one sitting in the garage. I bought it and removed the computer stalk to install in my car. Don't know what they are going for used, but shipping and a few $'s would cover it.
Hi -- you might ask Rolex11 -- I was going to buy his but drove too hard a bargain, so he still has it. His is a three - lever type, but he said - and I've read others say it too - that you can just take the extra stalk off your faulty unit and add it to the type he has. I haven't taken my wheel apart yet so I don't know exactly how this works, but supposedly it's not a big challenge. Rolex11 was very nice and would probably take less than the $120+ minimum prices you usually see.
Left turn signal not holding in position, ordered stalk assembly and 4 end pieces. Stalk assembly came with left 2 end pieces installed, so I didn't need to order these.
Disconnected battery and used T30 to remove airbag. Bolts were tight and some cars use T27 on one or both, try T30 first and if doesn't fit then go to T27, don't do it the other way or could strip.
Found this unterminated wire floating around, all electrical functions were working correctly so covered and secured with tape during reassembly.
I tried a few ways of marking position of steering wheel. Best way I found was almost remove wheel, then with permanent marker draw a line across wheel and shaft, that showed how to exactly fit back together.
In 2 Porsche service manuals, Bentley book, Wayne's 101 project book, and Youtube videos, I didn't see info to separate these connectors. Arrow shows raised solid tab that holds together, when properly released there will be no mark on tab or mating connector.
The only way I could see to release connectors was to pry up here, which left small marks so probably is not correct way, but it works.
Reference materials said mark position of switch assembly, and I did not see a description of how to do so. So I got a nail and lined up with face of assembly with paint on tip, and touched shaft leaving a small dot of paint. Upon reassembly pushed stalk back until nail tip directly over paint dot. Perfect.
Yellow arrows show side shields correctly installed, surface smooth all the way across.
Orange arrow shows locking mechanism on clock spring, rear of steering wheel has small ramp that moves this over as wheel installed. On this one the front lid stayed loose and had to be held in place with a piece of tape, don't know if that is normal or if something wrong with clock spring assembly.
Torqued wheel and airbag fasteners and blue loctite airbag bolts, reconnected battery, reset accelerator pedal, windows, clock, and put code in radio. Drove vehicle and all functions on 4 stalks work, and horn works. Looks like 100% successful project, just wish could repair stalk assembly if breaks again.
At exactly 3 years it broke again, this time won't hold for right turns. Ordered 3-stalk version (4th stalk directly swaps from old assembly) pn 996 6132 1711 so saved money, and from FCP Euro so lifetime warranty.
The 4 corner holes weren't threaded, don't remember that the first replacement. Screwdriver wouldn't turn them to create threads so carefully used vise grips.
The 4th stalk now has a different cap, early version is close, current one in the back.
I did repair mine but it's tricky. I riveted the plastic pieces back into position using a piece of .015 fiberglass as a bridge. Now the high beam switch has failed and I have to take it apart AGAIN!
I upgrade failed self-cancelling turn signal switches using spring steel fingers to replace the aged broken plastic ones. Turn-around is usually 2 days. PM me if interested.
I created the upgrade process when the switches failed on both my 2001 and a friend's 2002 911 (part number 996 61 219 10 EWC). These both have the 4-stalk switch. I assume vehicles with 3 or fewer stalks will still experience turn signal failures that can be corrected by my process.
You would ship me your switch assembly. I take the metal cover off the switch assembly, remove the broken or cracked plastic fingers, and attach replacement fingers made out of spring steel. After a cleaning and re-greasing, the switch is re-assembled and the top reattached. The process usually takes 2 days from start to finish. I've been charging $100 for the upgrade, excluding any shipping cost.
Based on that part number, this is the list of matching Porsche model fitments:
� Porsche 996 (1999-2005)
� Porsche 996 Carrera, Carrera 4 and Carrera 4S (1999-05)
� Porsche 996 GT2 and GT3 Coupe (2002-05) Note: w/ Cruise Control and Onboard Computer
� Porsche 996 Turbo and Turbo S Coupe (2001-05)
� Porsche 997 (2005-2013)
� Porsche 997 Carrera and Carrera S (2005) Note: w/ Cruise Control and Onboard Computer
� Porsche Boxster (1997-2004)
� Porsche Boxster Convertible (2001-04, 1997-99)
� Porsche Boxster S Convertible (2001-04)
� Porsche Boxster S Special Edition Convertible (2004) Note: w/ Cruise Control and Onboard Computer
Did you ever resolve this problem? I have developed an upgrade that replaces the broken plastic fingers to spring steel. Been charging $100 to fix these switches.
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Jim, it's a good idea. I have had 2 failures over 22 years and a 3rd will eventually happen. I gotta look to see if I saved any if the old stalks. I'll pm you when I find it.
not sure why my email reply bounced ... ?
I assume by your failure history reply, you saw the pix I sent.
My bounced message said that I prefer getting the complete switch assembly ( not just the stalk), so that I save you the infinite grief of trying assemble the unit. I've made some tooling that makes reassembly feasible in one's lifetime and minus the swearing! BTW, I use screws and Loctite instead of rivets to put the cover back on.
Jim just fixed the switch unit for my '02 C2 - absolutely Fantastic work, better than when it was new, 1/4 the cost of a new one even with shipping, and super-fast turnaround time! Thank You Jim for helping keep our cars in good repair. You deserve a medal!
Hello: I would like to have you rebuild my turn signal assembly sometime later this year. Right now the weather is great for driving with the top down and don't want to get into it till the things change. I will message you again when I am ready to proceed and hopefully you can fix the issues I am experiencing with the turn signals. Thanks, Joe Hubble
Would like to do this permanent fix as well. When my signal is on, there's a metallic springy noise emitting from the switch when I turn the wheel. For those that have had to repair/replace the multi-switch, does that sound like a symptom of a failing unit?
sounds like something is broken inside
�+++++�+++
does the turn single switch self cancel whrn returned to center? My upgrade replaces the breakage-prone plastic fingers that control the self cancelling. Not sure if the noise you are hearing is because of the broken fingers rattling around, or something more severe. For example, when re-installing the switch assembly, if it's pushed too far down the shaft, it might interfere with the inards. Only way to find out if the plastic fingers have broken is to open up the switch assembly. Let me know what you want to do.
yes, my guess is something else has broken or come loose. Actually you can get a partial view of the double-S steel spring that sits against the 2 plastic fingers, without opening the steel metal cover. The left side of this spring is partially visible just past the steel plate.
Note how the spring is not centered because the top plastic finger is broken off. If you don't see this off-center, then the plastic fingers may be ok.
Found this thread doing research after I encountered this failure today (right turn signal won't hold). Wanted to say thanks for the helpful photos. Also, I figured I'd take a crack at repairing mine before looking into Jim's services (awesome).
I think the repair difficulty is a bit overstated in this thread. I even had the left side tab snap off during disassembly. To fix things I used plastic specific 15 minute epoxy and built up some layer thickness around the break after it initially tacked up enough to hold the snapped off pieces. Took about an hour to glue and cure.
Holding things in place for reassembly was indeed a little tricky but also not that hard. I definitely needed some tweezers and clamps though. I used M3 nuts and bolts for reassembly rather than new rivets (which were easily drilled out with a sharp bit).
If you happen to have all the tools and epoxy handy, this can be leisurely done at home in a couple hours.
Repair survived 45 minutes of city driving today and the turn signal action feels much more taught and direct. I'll have to report back regarding any long term success.
Turns out the clock spring has a similar weak plastic flaw and I didn't notice until the test drive after first reassembly. There are two c shaped flanges that protrude into the steering wheel and if snapped off, will cause the clock spring to make loud clicking or sliding sounds when turning the wheel.
I did another glue job on the one flange I was able to recover. This time I added a short length of zip tie as reinforcement. I was able to hackily use a folded zip tie as a wedge to get the other side of the clock spring to start properly and eliminate the noise. Might 3D print a new flange if I ever get a printer!
Hey Jim: I would like you to repair my stalk switch. It's a 2003 996 Left signal won't self cancel and right signal won't stay on. Could you send me your address and I will get the switch sent off to you in the next few weeks. I saw in a previous discussion that your price was $100 plus shipping. Is that still accurate? I will look forward to hearing from you. Joe Hubble.
I still do them. Sounds like you may have already rremoved the switch from the car, if so, you may see the wire spring at the base of the stalk cocked a bit to the side. Once I open it up, the broken plastic fingers will be obvious. Address is Jim Glowienka, 14 Tee Lane, Red Hook, NY 12571. I suggest adding your outbound shipping cost to the check, to keep things simple. Questions text or call [phone removed].
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