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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHInstalled my MaxJax Lift
Leading reported evidence
Set posts 96" apart first try
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I set the posts 96" apart first try which was just wide enough for the 996; I didn't have the Cayenne.
Leading evidence: 'Set posts 96" apart first try' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check comfort level' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use pump style wheel dollies to position car midway between posts and fore and aft for correct lift alignment.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I bought the epoxy anchor from Danbar and then used Quickrite high strength anchoring epoxy that I bought at Home Depot, you won't need more than two tubes.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
When it's all the way up, I use the rolling chair and it works well.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I did not use the stuff that came with the kit because it requires a special caulk gun (it's two tubes side by side) and I've used those before, they just don't work well.
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Suggestion
I prefer doing my own engine oil changes and tire-wheel round-trips anyway (I trust shops as little as possible); near my primary residence I have my own shop nearby where I do this work for all my cars using a full rise lift.
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Suggestion · Original poster
When putting a GT4 on my lift, I had to put it in place, then I used a jack to raise the front of the car, placed race ramps under the front wheels, then I was able to get the arms underneath, plus I use lift pucks in the lifting points, so everything would clear.
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21 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
When I moved I set them 98" apart and that has worked out.
I did a bunch of research on this site and garage journal, everything that came up to 130". I tried my 2014 Audi A8L, 2004 Toyota mini van and the 996. I ended up going with 129 1/8" because I read a thread here where the guy needed to go down to 129" for his Cayenne. I don't think I will ever own one, but I just put it a little closer than 130". I bought the epoxy anchor from Danbar and then used Quickrite high strength anchoring epoxy that I bought at Home Depot, you won't need more than two tubes. This is slow set, if you've ever used the epoxy before, some of them have a 4 minute working time.
I did not use the stuff that came with the kit because it requires a special caulk gun (it's two tubes side by side) and I've used those before, they just don't work well.
Best of luck!
Here are some of the links I saved.Discussion of distance between posts:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...en-weight.html
Another distance thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...h-a-twist.html
Specialized lift pucks for the 996:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...st-lift-2.html
Caynee and spacing:
https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...-maxjax-2.html
Garage Journal:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...st-here.35763/
Good procedure for epoxy anchors:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...3/post-5418012
Another great procedure for expoxy:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/.../post-10179253
Good install thread:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...-model.497232/
I forgot to mention, I found this lift on craigslist about a year ago in the FL panhandle. The guy used it for one engine removal on his Mustang and I bought it for $1K! It's a newer unit vs. the old units. About another $3-400 in materials to install.
I've had a Max Jax original 2 position version for 8ish years and it's been great.
I've used it to remove the 6TT engine more times than I care to remember. It picked up my 5500 pound Cayenne without issue. I use it on my Corrados, my buddie's FJ Cruiser to change his diff, my dad's Ranger for a 4 wheel brake job and even my 280Z.
The Cayenne is pretty wide, the 280Z is very narrow, and getting the width to be universal was challenging.
I set the posts 96" apart first try which was just wide enough for the 996; I didn't have the Cayenne. I reset one post to make them 100" (might be 102"?) to fit Cayenne which made it too wide for 280Z. When I moved I set them 98" apart and that has worked out.
I have been meaning to drill the posts for more height choices.
If my experience is anything to go by -- no, you are just a (lucky) boy with better toys.
Congratulations! It's going to make working on your vehicles so much easier.
@Paul Waterloo
and Others
This has been a great discussion and I am reviving the thread in order to address a few questions I have.
I am fascinated by the portability of MaxJax which I think gives it a competitive advantage.
The only other device I am considering for my limited-space residential garage is a full-rise scissor lift that doesn�t have leave a tiny left-right distance in the center, and that�s a Bendpak SP-7XE.
What I don�t like about it are:
a) the need for compressed air, and
b) the concept of wide drive-on runways limiting the space and working area under the car.
I love everything about the MaxJax except I see two shortcomings which I wonder if we could discuss:
1) Minimum height to top of lifting pad is 4.75,� which isn�t quite suitable for very low cars. Indeed, over the years I�ve pulled low cars forward onto shimming devices such as race ramps or 2x10� boards many times but I would hope to avoid that extra step if going through the effort of buying my own lift.
Any comments here?
2) Lift traveling distance seems to be indicated at 43.� That means the total distance between the floor and the bottom of the vehicle�s lifting point at full rise will be 43� plus whatever the distance is from the floor to the bottom of the lifting pad before rise begins.
I realize this is a mid-rise lift, but it�d be nice to have about an extra 8-14� of rise beyond the 43�. I�m not a huge fan of creeping under cars; and a total height of about 60� under the car makes a world of difference as compared with about 48.� Has this also been a concern for others and I�m wondering if/why MaxJax or others haven�t come with a product like this offering just a bit more lifting rise?
When putting a GT4 on my lift, I had to put it in place, then I used a jack to raise the front of the car, placed race ramps under the front wheels, then I was able to get the arms underneath, plus I use lift pucks in the lifting points, so everything would clear.
For other very low cars, I just put my small HF aluminum race jack underneath the rocker at a suitable point, lift the car an inch or two and then swing the arms in.
Regarding the height, for suspension and brake work, it's more than fine. When it's all the way up, I use the rolling chair and it works well. Having 15 extra inches is one thing, but being able to walk under the car is another. Works just fine with the chair under it.
I use pump style wheel dollies to position car midway between posts and fore and aft for correct lift alignment. I do have to jack up each side of the car to get dollies in place because my 996 is lowered with Ohlin coilovers. Overall I find it excellent to do suspension, brake and tire changes. Also do alignment with "wheel stands", that allow me to access alignment adjustments that you can't on the ground. Stands are about 14" high. I did an AOS replacement on the lift, which allowed me to work in the engine compartment and also underneath access. Better than using a jack and jack stands.
Thanks guys for the replies.
The work I would be doing would be exclusively engine oil changes or tire-wheel removals/replacements at my second home where I don�t have relationships with local shops, which aren�t that close by. I prefer doing my own engine oil changes and tire-wheel round-trips anyway (I trust shops as little as possible); near my primary residence I have my own shop nearby where I do this work for all my cars using a full rise lift. I�ve never had to creep under a car but once and the results for me weren�t good at all.
That�s a long way my of asking - do you think this MaxJax application would be fine for doing engine oil changes? I guess I can go over to my own lift, lower it down to about 48 inches, and check my comfort level. I�m not a mechanic by trade but I do tinker around on many different marques which I personally own.
I've only used it a few times but had to have it. I'm a tool junkie.
Regarding the oil changes on a lift, yes, it's easier, but changing the oil on the 996 by just jacking up the rear end is so easy. Yes, you have to lay on the floor.
I still have this Sun kit that I picked up at a garage sale in the '90s. I last used it in 2013, the year I sold the 1970 911T. I don't see a need for it in my car future but you never know and it doesn't take up much space.
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