7 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHLocked out.
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect alarm and waited 24 hours
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Leading evidence: 'Disconnect alarm and waited 24 hours' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect alarm and waited 24 hours' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Opened frunk with emergency wire and disconnected battery.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Probably less time is ok but after that reconnected battery and fob worked.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
- The fob won't open the door or the trunk, even after I replaced the battery.
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Suggestion
If the key blade won't open the driver side door and the keyfob remote won't open the door, then you're going to have locksmith to use a bladder to wedge the window open and pull the inside door latch.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
7 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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- The fob won't open the door or the trunk, even after I replaced the battery. The red LED on the fob flashes when I press it.
- My key won't turn in the door lock. This all started very suddenly.
- I was able to open the frunk by pulling on the release cable from the d.s. wheel well. This caused the alarm to go off.
- The battery has 12.1 volts, which seems sufficient.
I've read various posts and I'm not sure if this is a mechanical, electrical, or system problem.
How can I get back into my car?
This happened to me a few weeks ago on a 1999. Opened frunk with emergency wire and disconnected battery. Then disconnected alarm and waited 24 hours. Probably less time is ok but after that reconnected battery and fob worked. Now I took the door apart to work on the spinning key barrel. Good luck
I presume you don't have a backup working keyfob? If the key blade won't open the driver side door and the keyfob remote won't open the door, then you're going to have locksmith to use a bladder to wedge the window open and pull the inside door latch. Have you tried turning the key blade counter clockwise in the lock until it stops and then hold for 5 seconds. On my mk2 996, doing this would tell the car to lower the windows.
As I said above, the key wouldn't turn at all. I reconnected the battery and the alarm went off. I then pressed the fob and it disarmed the alarm and unlocked the doors. Trunk now unlocks two. However, they key still will not turn in both the door and the ignition. There must be a common denominator. According to Chatgpt, there is no electrical lockout function that would prevent the key from turning; it claims that both locks are purely mechanical. It suggests that it must be the key, which I suppose is plausible. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare.
They key does seem to have a slight bend to it.... can't recall if that was there before. Instead of bending it back and possibly breaking it, I think I will have a locksmith make a copy first.
Few things I noticed....my key fob started acting up where it would flash the red LED but car would not want to recognize it and unlock. It seemed like it was a antenna issue of some sort because if I held it right over the windshield it would unlock but not after a few tries. New battery too. Some time later, I ended up replacing the top part of my key with a new one as the buttons started to wear out and crack. It's just a piece of plastic with the red window for the LED. Ever since I did that the key fob has worked perfectly and it no longer requires me to be to be a mm from the car.
When I do unlock my driver side door, be that with the key fob or key, and go to open the door by lifting the door handle, it tends to not "engage" and won't open the door. If I press slightly on the door, I hear a subtle klick and the door opens normally. This does not happen on the passenger side door. I assume you were not able to open either door? Makes me wonder if there's an issue with the lock itself where something came loose and out of alignment.
You can order new keyblades online that match the Porsche keyfob cases.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...caArmIEALw_wcB
I'm sure you know this now, but I'll say it again for the record... Never ever under any circumstance own a Porsche with just one keyfob.
After you get another key blade copied, I'd head over to my nearest Porsche dealership and get them to program a new Keyfob.
