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YOUR RESEARCHBrake line question
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Install on piston
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Bottom one is new dust boot installed on Piston...
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Properly installed there r no bending forces on that line.
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When I extract the pistons from the caliper (off off the car) I use 4psi just to let you know how easily they come out.
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Suggestion
The brake fluid in the cylinder (it's fine) will lubricate the piston on the way in.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I feel like I should replace the 26 year old rubber lines.
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Had the brakes off and made a stupid move. The hard brake line
to the caliper took a little bend. No leak at all. These lines have turns everywhere so im assuming fluid would travel as normal. Opinions on leaving versus ordering a new part? I assume its playing with fire to try and straighten ?Pic attached
.
I personally would not recommend reusing that line. All metal fatigues. I don't know how 996 hardlines are oriented, but from my 997, that's not just a "little" bent. Even if you bent it back in shape, that line definitely isn't as strong as it used to be. Do you really want to save $100 or so and bet your car and your life on the line (no pun intended lol) that might or might not burst next time you stomp on the brake?
Get some aftermarket flexible lines if you want to avoid this problem. Essex/Spiegler ones are nice. I use them on my car.
Why would you ever replace a hard line with a flexible one?
OP that line is fine, they don't move but do what makes you feel better. I think you were just looking for someone to tell you so. There are a only a few peoples opinion I value on this forum, two of them happened to be named Aaron,
@theprf
@De Jeeper
The latter I believe did have a cracked brake line we changed at the track .
I have 991 GT3 caliper with closed bridge on the front axles and caliper studs on the front uprights so I don't wear out the threads. With hardline it is a serious PIA to swap pads, flexible SS lines make things much easier. If you get BBK from PFC or AP, they will come with flexible lines as well--there is nothing wrong with that as long as the lines are not rubbing on anything.
Ok while on topic of screwups, I had quite a day with a 2-fer.
I started the car to check something else and out of habit had my foot on the brake pedal with that caliper off. I was shocked that one of the pistons flew out of the caliper.
First time working on this car's brakes ... so not sure if its a design thing with these but
1) odd that a piston would fly out with depressing the pedal lightly ?
2) if yes, perhaps this was a sign of a problem to come like a seal issue?
Next, I tried to get the rubber boot off the piston opening by gently using a small flathead. In the hopes of maybe getting the piston back in and replacing only the boot The boot is welded on there..
All seems odd to.me perhaps brake fluid over time was sneaking past the internal seal and fused thr boot rubber?
Don't know, but i was debating refurbishing all the calipers while I have the thing apart replacing all the suspension.
PMB seems like a popular company for refurbished calipers.
Anyone hear of Monaco Motorsports? They sell them too.
Yes they will pop out immediately with any pressure. Caliper is fine, order some new dust boots. The boot will come out. Use a pick around the outer ring.
ah well now im in the zone of "while I am in there" . Thinking of refinishing all the calipers. I feel like I should replace the 26 year old rubber lines. I am open to suggestions!
I don't use the dust boots anymore as the there are none I've found that stand up to track use. You would take the new boot insert the piston into the inner ring . Press the piston into the caliper all the way then press the boot outer ring into the face of the caliper.
Pics of boots
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...AaAmv1EALw_wcB
it is not uncommon that the boot become fused to the caliper due to age, heat, corrosion.
judging from just that one picture, your caliper doesn't look too rough, i think you can get away with just rebuilding it with new seals and dust boots.
and yeah, dont touch the pedal if you caliper doesn't have any pads and rotor in them...
'depressing the pedal lightly' is kind of subjective but I would be more concerned that only one piston moved. You didn't mention your model year, mileage or location but by looks of the seals, you probably should consider a rebuild of all the calipers.
40K miles 1999 C2 Cabrio. I am the second owner never left Florida.
Thank you for this question i was thinking the same thing. Why did only 1 of 4 pop out? I do think the others may have advanced but cant be sure.
I feel like I could rebuild them myself but also these could use a nice refinishing. So while am at it may consider PMB or Monaco ?
Buy the seals and boots from...
https://www.ohioperformancesolutions...0YUii2YqPtoYx3
They r a site vendor and carry a very good product for rebuilding. It takes aboit 20min a caliper to re-oring and dust boot each one. A piston removal wrench is a few bucks and recommended.
Also that line is fine but a replacement is cheap. Also i did crack one of those hard lines but i did not have the retainer bracket bolted down. Properly installed there r no bending forces on that line.
Because you don't have pads with rotors in between them to equalize the pressure to all four pistons. The one that popped was on the inside , where the brake line is connected? If they aren't leaking and your pad wear is even then they don't need rebuilding.
I just don't use the boots anymore,
makes sense on why 1 popped
intersting so the dust boots are just that... dust boots. Have no role in holding any fluid back thats for the deeper seals to.do.
Lots of differing opinions !! But appreciate the various perspectives.
For now if I wanted to just get this caliper working again could I simply reinsert the piston in and put a new dust boots on? Or does the brake fluid need to be emptied from the calender so there is no brake fluid between the piston and the seal inside the caliper
Cool. So, piston in, then get the dust boot on, then dry up the brake fluid from the exterior of the brake that leaked out and good to go (install pads, mount, bleed?
Appreciate the detail here guys its awesome.
Ok lot to digest on this thread. So is the piston is out of the caliper? If so install the new dust boot on the piston first before pushing the piston back in. Never use any tools on pushing the pistons in. The brake fluid in the cylinder (it's fine) will lubricate the piston on the way in. Use your hands. Once the piston is fully seated then press the dust boot into the caliper. Once again only use your hands. If you have any damage to your piston seals causing a leak you would know immediately as the brake pedal would hit the floor. I will take pics tonight for your reference. Rebuilding is a simple job.
Mike
OPS
https://rennlist.com/forums/newreply...eply&t=1492152
Thanks Mike. Yes a lot to digest as I had quite an eventful day in the garage with 2 mistakes and after a few choice words directed at myself, I realize I must persevere. 😅 Yea the piston is out. i made sure to keep it clean and its smooth no damage at all. I did use only my hands to insert it back in so brake fluid would continue to seap. Prior to that however, my curiosity got the best of me and I attempted to remove the boot and it tore (nothing fell in the caliper) . So now I am waiting for a boot just to get the thing back together for now. In the spring i do want to order a set of 4 kits from you to do all 4 wheels as I also want to sand and refinish all the calipers for cosmetic reasons. Let me quickly read back what you are saying above. When I get the boot take the piston back out, seat the boot, and then by hand push the piston back in and it will get past the whole boot? Man I wish I knew I could do this yesterday before tearing up that boot but live and learn
When I extract the pistons from the caliper (off off the car) I use 4psi just to let you know how easily they come out. No you do not have to completely remove the piston. Use your old brake pads to get the piston our some. You just need enough room for you to put (roll) the dust boot on the piston. Then you can press the boot into the caliper. To ease the instillation of the dust boots, get a q-tip and wet it with hairspray. Use that q-tip to wet the outer part of the dust boot and it will then pop right in saving your fingers a lot of pain. Never use anything (grease fluid ect) on the dust boots!
Pic of the ridge the boot goes into.
How the boot will look before pressing it into the caliper.
Mike
I cut up a board lying around just long enough to seat in the caliper and then apply compressed air as above. You want them to come out evenly far enough that you can grab them with your fingers but obviously not fly out or be damaged as they will come out with some force (enough to leave an imprint on the board). 5/8 width is just about perfect.
