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YOUR RESEARCHOil Change and Flush Question
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Use comes
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Timeout on aircraft engines, which typically sit more often than they're used, comes because of corrosion.
Leading evidence: 'Use comes' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check website, and looks like it's been reported as' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Check website, and looks like it's been reported as
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Suggestion · Original poster
IMS - Confirmed Dual Row via LN's VIN check website, and looks like it's been reported as changed at 76k Miles in 2013
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Suggestion · Original poster
I think I'm going to go ahead and have the IMS replaced by a local shop with some experience with it.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The shop is replacing the IMS bearing and dropping the oil pan to clean everything out and giving me a fresh start with some new oil.
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Suggestion
My oil change intervals remained the same while using either brands (3000 miles).
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Suggestion
If the car did 2000 miles a year and was located in the desert, would you still replace the LN dual row IMS bearings at 8 years if it had regular oil changes with synthetic oil?
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
The car runs fine, idles fine, and has no noticeable rattle or weird sounds and no change when I press in the clutch or anything like that.
Car - 1999 Carrera 2 (3/98 Build) - 133k Miles
IMS - Confirmed Dual Row via LN's VIN check website, and looks like it's been reported as changed at 76k Miles in 2013
Previous owner told me he ran Mobil 1 0W-40 oil and put in Liquid Moly Engine Flush. I just did an oil change yesterday and found a little concerning amount of metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug (See photo), as well as some green plastic bits in the filter). No major metal bits besides those on the drain plug. There was a tiny bit of sparkle in the oil, but nothing too crazy, and the oil itself seemed good - not too thick or odd colored. I'm having a sample sent off to Blackstone Labs for analysis (In process).
After doing a bunch of research, I'm learning that I need to do a different type of oil going forward, and that the green flakes may not be too bad of an issue. The metal flakes are more concerning - but are they normal for this age and mileage and after doing that flush? Or - is this the IMS starting to go? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. The car runs fine, idles fine, and has no noticeable rattle or weird sounds and no change when I press in the clutch or anything like that.
Thanks,
Your IMS retrofit bearing has an expected life of six years, so it way past time to replace. Can you wipe the metal flakes off the magnetic plug with a white shop towel so we can get a better look? If you still have the oil, you might drag a magnet thru it and see if there is anything else there.
I had some fuzz on my magnetic drain plug when I was using Motul 8100 X-Cess Gen2 5w-40.
It dramatically decreased - nearly eliminated - after I switched to Driven DT40 (and DI40 later). My oil change intervals remained the same while using either brands (3000 miles).
Do an UOA to get a clearer objective analysis of the situation with the metal particles. The green bits are more than likely from the VarioCam camshaft adjuster. If so, it's time for them to be rebuilt with new seals and wear pads.
If the car did 2000 miles a year and was located in the desert, would you still replace the LN dual row IMS bearings at 8 years if it had regular oil changes with synthetic oil? Other than corrosion, I'm trying to understand the rationale for the six year timeout.
While I understand that technically the bearing is in service once installed, I have also felt that on a very low mileage car, how does wear happen? I had the solution installed, so irrelevant.
Not to go down a rabbit hole here. The recommendation is also to change oil 2X / year regardless of mileage. I do 1000 miles a year, maybe 1500 on a good year. I change the oil in the spring. That's it. Now, when I park the car in October, the car is not started until the spring, with fresh oil. If I were to change in the fall, the oil would literally have 2 miles on it when I change it in the spring.
Maybe I will regret this, likely not.
Timeout on aircraft engines, which typically sit more often than they're used, comes because of corrosion. Camshaft lobe corrosion is real in some Lycoming engines, for example, because of the oil level. A manufacturer doesn't know if the engine is sitting next to the ocean or in the Mojave with pristine oil. Or if it's run long enough to oil to temp to evaporate moisture, etc.
Mr. Navarro acknowledges in that link that this is a difficult topic because of a number of variables. I change oil before going into storage to remove combustion contaminants, but I've never seen anyone come up with a definitive answer. Given the car's history and location, I'm not going to worry about timeout on the bearing until I get 50,000+ miles on it.
I pulled a magnet across the filter and only a small amount more of metal flake, but nothing really even able to show up in photos. It was really just full of those little green plastic bits.
I think I'm going to go ahead and have the IMS replaced by a local shop with some experience with it. They wrote up a great quote and said they'd look into it a bit more. Thanks for the help everyone!
Just following up this thread in case someone is following with a similar issue.
Discovered that this was an early sign of IMS bearing failure. It was actually an original bearing - not an LN one - so it's weird that my VIN appears in the LN database. Glad I caught it in time! The Oil analysis I had done someway indicated this as well (Bearing metals found in the report). The shop is replacing the IMS bearing and dropping the oil pan to clean everything out and giving me a fresh start with some new oil. I'll run that for a bit and then swap to the Drive D50 stuff. Thanks everyone for the help!
Also - the plastic bits are from cam deviation. Fixing that next!
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