Brake fluid flush

Curious whats the consensus on how much brake fluid it takes to do a complete flush thru. 1 litre..? 1 pint..? 2 litre..? How do most do a complete bake fluid flush.? Do you do a clutch bleed at the same time..? Do you remove all old fluid from the master cyl reservoir first..? Power bleed,? gravity bleed.? pedal push bleed..? Power bleed from bottom to top, or top to bottom...? How long do you go between brake fluid flushes..? What fluids are you guys using..?

I use a Motive pressure bleeder, with ATE Type 200 fluid, and do the clutch hydraulic line at the same time. Typically a full liter is plenty to get the old dirty stuff out.

The resi itself holds a pint. I use almost 3 pints for a full preseason flush. Im sure i push more then i have to but i want to be 100% for track season. I remove the screen and suck out the mc, fill with new, hook up motive bleader with 2 pints and presurize. I make 4 equal lines on the motive bleader bottle and start with the outside bleader fill to 1st line then inside bleader fill to 2nd line, repeat for all calipers then blead clutch. Top off reai when done.

Very similar to DeJeeper. The lines on the bottle are a great idea. The only thing I do not mentioned here, I will open the clutch bleeder, push the clutch to the floor, then close the bleeder before releasing the clutch. This clears the clutch master, maybe faster, maybe better. Idk. But I do it. It is risky if you don't push continuously. ATE 200 every 2 years. 5-8k miles/yr. Aggressive street. No track.

Quotes source post: 20278792

Before they made Ate Blue illegal, it was great for flushes. I alternated between gold and blue so you could physically see the change in color to know when the old fluid was 'flushed'. There was always a little left in a one liter can after a full flush. I use a Motive bleeder in dry mode. Years ago when I heard blue brake fluid was going to be discontinued, I bought a case but now I'm down to a single liter. When that's used up on whatever car gets the next flush, I'll just use a full liter of the (now) standard gold stuff to consider the system flushed.

+1 on alternating the blue and gold Ate 200. FWIW, I learned on the Ate site that the Ate 200 has a shelf life of 5 years.

You don't bleed the ABS system? Otherwise, there are water content testers, which are quite effective. I never go more than 2 years without changing the brake fluid.

Quotes source post: 20280770

Thanks for all the replies.... All good info. Interesting, never tried dry mode. Might have to try that... What PSI do you use...? pros & cons ? "Before they made Ate Blue illegal," Not sure Anyone feels safer now. Blue was great.

Quotes source post: 20281409

Might have to try that abs bleed, seen the option on piwis. But never saw the need for using the abs bleed option. Fluid always seemed to eventually come out clean with a power bleed. Seemed the fluid would have too bleed thru the abs unit on a pressure bleed without activating the abs unit, but maybe that is a wrong assumption..?

Do you have a piwis 2? I only have 4 years of Porsche experience but I can assure you that a purge without purging the abs is incomplete. The piwis allows you to activate the solenoid valves of the abs pump, personally I have seen with my own eyes air bubbles arriving after activating the abs pump with the piwis. On our French forum, many people found themselves with a soft pedal and some even with big scares at the end of the straight line with a faulty pedal, following basic purges, bubbles remained in the ABS pump....with a standard purge.

Not true and no need to activate the abs unit. The pressure bleader pushes fluid from the start to the end. It will flush the entire system. There r no chambers or weird pathways in an abs unit. Its just a plunger that increases or decreases pressure. If u fill the mc and do not introduce air into the system there is no way for bubles to form. This is why i fill the motive bleader and the mc resi so it doesnt run dry and push air into the system. If u replace the mc its possible to introduce air and in that case air can get trapped in the abs unit. I pump the bleader to 25psi (ish) when i put the cap on the resi to test the seal, then i depressurise, fill unit and pump up again. I re-pump if it drops to 15ish.