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YOUR RESEARCHTransmission pulled due to RMS, now shifting a bit different
Leading reported evidence
Replace rms and clutch in my car
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I noticed a bit notchier (a word?) after the replaced the RMS and clutch in my car.
Transmission pulled due to RMS, now shifting a bit different
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Leading evidence: 'Replace rms and clutch in my car' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust after rms replacement' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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in the eary years I used to lube them up (and screw them up) and now I use a "clean and dry" aproach.
Transmission pulled due to RMS, now shifting a bit different
Use swepco 210
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used Swepco 210 which is an 80w-140 and we added a pint of the 714 ATF (my indy uses it.
Transmission pulled due to RMS, now shifting a bit different
Adjust after rms replacement
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Suggestion · Original poster
I searched for this the linkage adjusting after RMS replacement with no luck.
Transmission pulled due to RMS, now shifting a bit different
Adjust linkage this has been posted
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Suggestion
They need to adjust the linkage this has been posted before after RMS replacement.
Transmission pulled due to RMS, now shifting a bit different
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$100k doesnt shift like that, AND it never did it BEFORE you "fixed it"
I had the RMS done very recently and now shifting into 2nd and especially 3rd is a little bit more difficult. Once completely warmed up, it's okay. Could pulling the tranny change the shifting characteristics?
I may have the dealer take a look, but I wanted opinions from here first.
Also, as a side note, the oil is replaced during an RMS change, correct?
I noticed a bit notchier (a word?) after the replaced the RMS and clutch in my car. It still does feel a bit more notchy than before. It does go away as soon as the car is at temperature. I am putting in the undercar short shift kit during the next warm weekend so it didn't matter to me.
No, they do not change the oil in the car after the RMS.
It's cables to shift and they are adjustable. A discription is in the service manual on how to adjust. It looks like a special tool is only required for the initial position.
You might set up a piece of paper with colums so you can track all your adjustment changes to each cable so that you can always get back to the start point. A little more or less tension on working the gears might make a difference you are looking for.
Mine is hard to shift from 1st to second gear whenever the temps are below 35 degrees F, but as you say, as soon as the engine warms up it's like butter again.
I searched for this the linkage adjusting after RMS replacement with no luck. Can anyone direct me to some of this info?
Should be covered under CPO, but I just want to understand why the linkage comes out of adjustment when pulling the tranny and if it's normal?
no question, I would return to the place that did it and tell them to set it right....
and if they say
"it's normal"
say BS !!
$100k doesnt shift like that, AND it never did it BEFORE you "fixed it"
does linkage "warm up"?
I dont know what it "could be" I have thought about it and fluid is what I come up with... maybe they added/removed/changed the fluid?
Maybe there is something with the clutch slave..... air?
Maybe they lubed/cleaned or something to the input shaft that makes it sticky till warm?
It's going to be a brush off, so you will have to go in and keep going in and hope IF they take care of it they dont do it while pissed at you for asking them to fix what is most likely something they caused....
If it shifts hard only when its cold, but not if its warm...that's fairly common, but you may want to verify what's in there now for transmission fluid, weight, viscosity,and whether it's synthetic or a factury fill.
This is true,
BUT
there is no reason it should be find prior to the work, and then start acting up UNLESS they did "something"
You can "do something" too.... but it would be to un-do what was done to you (your car)
Better fluid helps the shifting issue (IMO) Swapped mine for somebetter stuff and that cold hard shift was almost instantly gone, and never came back..... in **** it went further away. There is a huge thread on which oil to use, lots of debate and opinions (none as good as mine
)
awe boy
LOL
I used Swepco 210 which is an 80w-140 and we added a pint of the 714 ATF (my indy uses it. he races, DD's and is a big time restoration guy - one of the best on the old 356's. He is also going to Jakes Class and is doing the LME retrofits, plus a complete new LME case swap on a 3.6... he does his homework and he told me thats what I should use.... he mixed it, he sold it to me - wanna know what brake fluid he told me to buy
)
I've noticed that with cars in general (with manual transmisions), sometimes simply lubing a shift linkage at one point makes shifting feel dramatically different. I have also noticed that temperature also changes the feel (good and bad) after lubing.
They could have meant well, spraying a little bit of lubricant somewhere. There's nothing wrong with taking it back. But just understand that they may not have done anything major to cause the "major" difference.
b-man
+1 which is why the comment was lubed/cleaned.... it could be well meaning to wipe something clean or to give a shot of lubricant on a part that looked "dry" and sometimes that is not good.
I have been a machinist for about 20 years and all of my inspection equipment is Swiss made... in the eary years I used to lube them up (and screw them up) and now I use a "clean and dry" aproach. The feel is SO much differant - lube was the problem.
If you have ever put a slip fit pin in a blind hole - a tiny but of lube will make the pin pop out, where dry will make it slide in SO smooth and stay put. (hydrolic pressure from oil sealing IN the air)
Rough shifting could be caused by quite a few things, but as this is happening more when the car, it probably has something to do with either the cable adjustments, or the fluid.
Keep in mind that while you may be warming your car up for say 5 minutes, unless you are actually driving it, your gearbox temp will stay pretty cool for about the first 5-10 minutes.
I would check the cables first, but if you are still having issues after that, then by all means try a different oil. I would recommend staying away from synthetics in the 996, as for some reason the synchronizers do not seem to like them too much. If you just have to have a synthetic perhaps consider a friction modifier.
Just my .02 cents, and I hope that this is at least a bit helpful.
Erik Johnson
GBox Performance Transaxles
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