Pinned IMS Pictures

Does anyone have a picture of the pin on an IMS shaft? I have been struggling to find good pictures of a pinned IMS shaft. there�s a few on the internet floating around but none of them are high quality. I want to know if the pin is a spiral pin, solid pin, or a set screw. from the pictures I can find it looks like a set screw. here are the best ones I can find. The fact that the pin is inset makes me think a screw The picture is not very clear but it looks like the hole is threaded

I just checked my IMS that I sent to LN for pinning and installation of the Solution, like the one in the picture you found. It has three provisions equally spaced around the shaft that are indeed threaded with a set screw that took a 2mm allen. My pics were no better than what you have...no macro on my old dumb phone.

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this is the exact information I needed! thank you so much!

The ones I have seen are actualy welded.

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Do you by chance know where they welded it? I was thinking about tacking mine but wasn�t sure where to do it because the most obvious location is also the back of the bearing pocket. I would think this inner bearing pocket is not good because it would cause the bearing to not seat properly unless it was machined after.

From the Images online, it looks like most of the pinned shafts are running a 6mm long pin becuase they are so deeply inset in the threaded hole. I modeled the shaft and the gear drive, then put in different types and lengths of set screws just to see how they would fit. Initially, I thought an extended tip set screw would be best, but even using a bottoming tap, I dont think it would work as well as I would like. It also doesn't have a lot of engagement. The 8mm long pin seems to have the most amount of engagement and won't protrude into the shaft or out into the timing chain area. I will buy both the 8mm and the 6mm set screws and see which one I prefer in person, but based on the model, I think the 8mm long pin will be best.

I am confused by the question and the graphic. Does pinning the IMS pin the gear to the shaft, or just add a method to secure the bearing race in the shaft?

Sorry I don't recall, I did the rebuild 2 years ago now. It was a FSI race engine build by Jake that I refreshed.

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It pins the gear to the shaft. The gear from the factory was only press fit (which to me seems bizarre and just asking to fail).

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I see. This makes sense after looking at more threads about this. Any of the threaded options could work, and you could stake the threads to prevent it from backing out. Another alternative would be a roll-pin. An interference fit can be very effective and is well understood from an engineering basis. The downside is finite torque limits and high tolerance requirements to meet expectations - either of which could be missing in the instances where these fail. It could also be cause by high forces elsewhere in the drivetrain. Having timing come out of alignment when this fails is probably preferable to a chain snapping. Jake et al would know best when to apply this, but my guess would be rebuilt/well serviced engines rather than �while you�re in there� pieces of mystery meat with unknown history/health on other key components� including chains/guides/valvetrain.

Just to point out, the pinning is important, but checking the shaft itself for runout is probably even more important.

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I plan to show my process for that as well as I agree shaft runout can be a large problem for bearing life. I am not sure how you guys do it but my plan was to set the shaft on two v-blocks measure similar points to what was shown above with measurements. the setup would look like this: I have a machined flat surface that I think would be better for me to use than my workbench. I also have an indicator from when I worked in a machine shop that I think will be better than a standard dial gauge to get into the bearing pocket.

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If yo were to guess, do you think these develop runout due to slipping or heating or something, or was the runout excessive from the factory? I know that kind of root cause analysis can be a fools errand, but I�m curious if you�ve seen any telltale indications.

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Any good dial indicator thats accurate to .001" would be fine. Any convenient solid bench that doesn't let v block move around is fine. On flange end of shaft see if you can get at a smooth area to measure that end of shaft. Maybe keep bearing in if its still good and insert the correct size pipe/pvc/etc into bearing to rest on v-block to allow the shaft to spin on that bearing, thus mostly avoiding shaft moving laterally in v blocks when spinning shaft Might also want to measure shaft diameter with a mic to make sure its uniform/round not throwing off the run out measurement where indicator is positioned. Without knowing the non published m96 run-out max specs, assume from doing many other type shafts that any thing over .003" is probably not good. Might be possible too carefully 'straighten' shaft in a press once you know the position of shafts run-out. Strive for as close to .000" as possible. Would think shaft run out over 4-.005" is a no go. ? Maybe Charles will chime in here and give us max run out of m96 ims shaft. And proper m96 ims run-out measure technique...? Below pic is my guess.... jmo

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thanks for the insight! I can�t seem to find my v-blocks and I want to measure this today so I might run to the store and buy a couple of drill press jigs that are v shaped. I will post back how I did it and what my runout comes out to.

Okay I got my IMS shaft measured. I will probably need to remeasure it after I drill/tap and install the set screws. but my shaft seems to be good! How I measured the outer diameters. How I measured the bore for the bearing. Unfortunately my indicator has a plastic lens which has glazed over. Annoying to say the least but I could still make out the marks. Measured 0.0040�