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YOUR RESEARCHSpring question
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Use stock)
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Suggestion
You can get away with making relative small mods to one without changing the others, but if you install springs that are shorter and stiffer, you really need to change the shocks / struts as well.
Leading evidence: 'Use stock)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace others' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
You can get away with making relative small mods to one without changing the others, but if you install springs that are shorter and stiffer, you really need to change the shocks / struts as well.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I believe the springs are OK - but as you suggest, why change the shocks to stock shocks for about the same cost as lowering the car and hopefully getting a better (stiffer) ride and a little lower is part of that...trouble is I think my shocks are worn out with 110k miles on the chassis, I believe they are original - trust me they dont do much damping....
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
You can get away with making relative small mods to one without changing the others, but if you install springs that are shorter and stiffer, you really need to change the shocks / struts as well.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Replace others
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Suggestion
You can get away with making relative small mods to one without changing the others, but if you install springs that are shorter and stiffer, you really need to change the shocks / struts as well.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I believe the springs are OK - but as you suggest, why change the shocks to stock shocks for about the same cost as lowering the car and hopefully getting a better (stiffer) ride and a little lower is part of that...trouble is I think my shocks are worn out with 110k miles on the chassis, I believe they are original - trust me they dont do much damping....
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
You can get away with making relative small mods to one without changing the others, but if you install springs that are shorter and stiffer, you really need to change the shocks / struts as well.
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so I was able to pick up a pre-owned set of Eibach springs and shocks from a fellow RL member. I started the install and have the drivers front done. This is not a hard job and took me only about 1-1/2 hours most of which was finding the right sockets and stuff. I expect the second one to be much faster.
Here is the funny thing. These should be much better than my US standard old worn out crap. I though "better" meant stiffer... yet when I push down on the old ones they dont move at all (remember I only weigh 155lbs) and the new ones move down much easier... thia makes me "think" they are less stiff????
maybe its spring rates, I am not that smart with this stuff. Anyhow, I dropped the car only 3/8 of an inch too... damn, I was hoping for a bit more (measured at fender)
an
so now before i do the other 3... is this going to be worth the effort, am I out of range on what I think is stiffer and better...
voice them up guys, I am tired and need a beer.....sort of hoping I didnt get excited for nothing and that I just dont understand how this is better...
and if you didnt read this and just want to look at girls... well here ya go
Yeah, I got distracted too...
But, I have 2 comments. First, you won't see the full "lowering effect" (3/8" you report) before installing the other springs, too - the old ones will be contributing to holding the car up.
Second, (I haven't seen the ssprings you're putting on, but) they may be "progressive" springs - meaning they can start to be compressed with less effort, but the effort it will take to compress more will increase at a non-linear rate. It may take more force to compress the new spring 2 inches, compared to compressing the old one 2".
I say put the rest in and see what it's like. If you like it, then get a fresh alignment.
Hey,
You wrote:
Here is the funny thing. These should be much better than my US standard old worn out crap.
Why do you think the springs are worn out? Springs, when properly made (like from Porsche) never wear out. If you want to lower the car you should buy springs for that. Note that a lowering spring will have to be stiffer so the car doesn't bottom out. There is ZERO benefit to installing stiffer springs that don't lower the car. The handling will NOT be improved at all and the ride quality will suffer. Lowing the car will improve the handling, but the ride quality may suffer.
Lastly, the suspension (springs, shocks, swaybars, bushings, etc.) is designed to operate as a unit. You can get away with making relative small mods to one without changing the others, but if you install springs that are shorter and stiffer, you really need to change the shocks / struts as well.
good luck,
Barry
Thanks
I believe the springs are OK - but as you suggest, why change the shocks to stock shocks for about the same cost as lowering the car and hopefully getting a better (stiffer) ride and a little lower is part of that...trouble is I think my shocks are worn out with 110k miles on the chassis, I believe they are original - trust me they dont do much damping....
so
I agree, stiffer, lower, complete unit is best and that's what I bought, I am swapping out the old struts and springs. The question I had is why do they "feel" softer when pushed on by my hand AND gee... they didn't seem to lower the car much....therefore, is this worth going forward or just back up and re-think and/or buy a differant set up
Thanks for your comments
(sorry no pics, at work)
one front on... starting the other side now...ready set.....GO !
(Friday, with experience under my belt and beer in the fridge... this is gonne be a tough call... faster or slower.......)
done
that's 51 minutes from when I left, drove the car out, jacked it up, removed the passenger strut *** and installed the new one. ( I had trouble with the sway bar on this side, cost me about 10 minutes? to figure that out...) car back on the ground, hands clean and beer open...
so you need to compress the springs to assemble the struts...are you using your old struts? Also I have not tackled the rear yet, that could be a new ballgame.
Did you sell the Boxster?
PM or email me
so the passenger side seemed a bit lower than the drivers, I loosened the thru bolt on the drop link/ strut connection and jacket the wheel up giving the strut a twisting motion to seat it, then I turned the spring until it butted up to the stop (only a slight turn) when i put it back down it was better looks like about a 3/4" drop on both sides.
If I had shorter drop links would the car come down? (since I am using stock)
WOOOHOOOO it looks way better already ! cant wait to get it dialed in and hit the road/track see how she turns!
rear ride height from the ground with 285/30-18's is 25" on the money
Front with 225/40-18's it 25.5"
She feels good but I dont want to drive it till I get the alignment. Much less pitchy on the gas and brakes...cant wait for some turns !!
Vacuumed it out, quick rinse off the dusty stuff, no need to wash it till its back from the shop and I can drive it but we had a wind storm and while it was outside getting worked on - plenty of tree junk fell on it.
The rear is way easy - glad I did the front first. Having never done this it took less than 5 hours total time (but my shocks/springs were pre-assembled)
This is not a tough job. Just takes some time, dont rush it... I spent 3 days so I stopped when I felt like it. If I had done it all in one shot it would be too much for me and fatigue would have cost me more time.
pics soon - promise
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