996 Stereo Upgrades in Here

Hello 996 owners and the like . I am looking to upgrade my head unit and perhaps my amp/speakers. I was hoping we could get a thread going with pictures of your stereo systems and details of your setup. I would like to integrate digital music into the scene and potentially ditch CD's all together. Let's see what you got with the Pro's and Con's of your system. Let's rock it out....thanks for your input in advance.

I came across this device the other day. If you had an aux in (for example if it bypasses your cd changer), it might be a good solution for Bluetooth streaming and phone integration while keeping everything else stock. http://www.belkin.com/us/F4U037-Belkin/p/P-F4U037/

A lot of guys have done a double DIN. Search those 2 words. Personally I haven't had the radio on for 2 years.

I have a eclipse unit but too afraid to turn it on as I'm always listening for any death rattles. I'll most likely be selling my Tubi's and going back to stock and weld in additional resonators to further aid in listening to my engine. Eclipse single DIN, Boston Acoustics Speakers, stock Hifi amp. Pros: cost effective yet great SQ, Bluetooth, mp3/iPod integration, auto-tune like Audyssey, single din to keep the distractions out and driving in. Cons: red or blue selectable display doesn't match dash, boo hoo...

I upgraded my entire system a few years ago. Here are the highlights: - Kenwood DNX-6960 double-DIN head unit - Focal four channel amp mounted in the frunk where the CD-changer used to reside. Custom mount built and new custom carpet installed in cargo area. - Focal speakers installed in factory locations, using factory speaker grills. Custom mounts built for door mounted sub-woofers. - Custom sub-woofer box fabricated and installed in Bose factory sub location. Covered with new carpet. - Antennae for Sirius/XM and GPS installed on the front bumper, hidden underneath the front bumper cover. - Custom iPhone mount built into dash underneath head unit - Mic located in factory location Pros: - Outstanding sound quality - Modern navigation system - Sirius/XM, Pandora and iPod connectivity - Good appearance, matching lighting, etc. Cons: - Expensive installation - Limited functionality of Bluetooth phone connection due to noise levels in the cabin while driving - Poor AM radio reception (I occasionally listen to talk radio) Overall, I'm very pleased with it.

I put in a double DIN system which includes CD, DVD, Navigation, Phone, Ipod, Satellite radio, Bluetooth, Pandora, etc. But, as stated above, a rather expensive install.

Here's a photo of the amp installation in the frunk:

^^^ that's a really nice amp install!

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+1 ... I have a cab, so the soundtrack is pretty much engine, tires, and (if the top is down) wind. I guess I could play music now that I have the hard top on for the winter, but I never seem to bother. Even though I don't use it for music very often, my car has a double DIN Kenwood unit, including iPod integration. I installed it mostly for the Garmin nav, which I like a lot better than sunction-cupping a portable nav to the windshield.

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I have a similar one in mine from the previous owner, and while the NAV is nice, I am considering a single DIN. Touch screens look great until you have to take your eyes off the road to use them. My particular models interface is incredibly slow as well. God forbid you hit the wrong funtion because it will take a fairly long time to get back to where you were. And forget scrolling through 1000+ songs on the iPod, I just leave it off most of the time If you do go touch screen, by all means try and test it out in person first

I have a fusion single din, mechless, usb, sd card, fully customizable color to match interior lighting and flat black finish when it's off. Love it even though it's mostly off. Listening to the afterhours exhaust instead. http://www.fusionelectronics.com/car...units/ca-ml600

I love my Ipad Mini setup.. Check out this thread. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...-996-mkii.html

I wish head unit manufacturers would get rid of those 14-segment displays. It is 2014 and they look so rubbish IMHO...

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I kept reading "iPod mini" and couldn't figure out (1) where it was (2) what the big deal was. Having reread it I'm suitably impressed

I almost have the identical setup as Dennis C, except i used the factory Bose speakers plus an Alpine amp,and i added a complete radar and laser jammer system with a stealth installation for the controls in the ashtray.same results, great navigation,fantastic audio improvement,and yes the bluetooth for the phone is a little sketchy due to cabin noise,you might have to pull over to make or receive a call. I also used a company called Kuda that make the mount for my Iphone, the mount looks like a factory piece ,even has the same graphite grey leather to match. and yes a little pricey.

Pioneer DEH-9400BH with an Alpine MX-VR70 in the frunk. Kept the stock Bose speakers for now. No real complaints other than the fact that I need to replace the Subs to actual subs, but can't find perfectly matching carpet for a new box.

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Ahh yes big difference!

I went with a Parrot Asteroid Smart... although my project isn't completed yet so I don't have photos, but here's why... it is an Android based unit, so you can install Torque - an application that connects via bluetooth to an OBDII adapter and can read out all the information your car can provide. Jump to minute 1:45 on this video: Toyota 86 | Parrot Asteroid Smart | Torque Pro - YouTube

I'm in the process of upgrading the Bose system in my 2004 996 40th AE. As others have written, the speakers are the weakest link in the Bose system. The best $250 I've spent on my car was buying new JBL GTO series speakers for front dash, door panels, rear and Bose sub speaker replacement. The 3.5 inch JBL coax speakers (GTO series) run at 2 ohms and are basically plug and play with the stock dash and rear speakers. I left the Bose tweeters in for now, but may take them out at some point. I removed the Bose subwoofer box, and replaced the 2 5.25 inch bose woofers with 5.25 inch JBL (GTO Series) coax speakers and added some foam to the box and will dynamat the enclosure in the next few days as has been done by others. The results are impressive when listening to my iPod, even with no door speakers at this point. I have not yet decided which size JBL GTO door speakers to put in the front and passenger door (4, 5.25 or 6) - but I'm primarily looking for some additional punchy bass up front. [I ultimately put in the JBL GTO 5.25 inch coax 528 model in the doors] The difference in clarity and lack of distortion compared to the Bose speakers is remarkable. I feel like I have a several thousand dollar aftermarket system in the car already with just these few changes. I will dynamat the front and passenger door, floors and rear over the next few weeks. I will then decide on whether a new nav system is in order (Alpine, Kenwood or Pioneer), and whether to go with an extra amp and/or DSP. I received several quotes to do the entire job and it ranges from 3k to 6k. By just adding $250 worth of speakers (on sale on the web by the way for 50% off in some cases for the JBL 2 ohm GTO series), I think I could now justify having a professional install the amp and new head unit for much less. I have always been a JBL and Alpine fan and these JBL speakers are excellent and a steal at current sale prices. I have the MoBridge for Ipod/Iphone installed and listen primarily to my iTunes music with the EQ set to flat.

So you total spend was $250? Did you do the install yourself?

Yes -- I ordered the JBL speakers from onlinecarstereo.com and they arrived in 2 days -- 2 sets of JBL GTO 328, 1 set of JBL GTO 528 for sub replacement and GTO 528 for the doors -- about $240. I also ordered some other speakers for my GF's car from SonixElectronics. If you can handle a screwdriver and ratchet, you can do this yourself as it is very simple to change out the dash, and bose sub speakers -- all you need is a ratchet and TORX set, philips head screw driver and a small pliers and small flat head screw driver (taped up) or plastic trim removal tools. I did all the speakers last night in a very short time. I pulled the door panels off too, but have not yet decided on what size to go with in the doors. If I go with 5.25 or 6, I will need to open the holes a bit on the stock plastic enclosure. [I installed the 5.25 JBL GTO 528 coax and used the dremel to open up the stock bose door box and used my own screws to bolt the speakers on to the plastic bose box and used a bit of dynamat as a surround.] I'm waiting for my dynamat to be delivered, but honestly the improvement is substantial even without the dynamat. My ears do not hurt when I blast the stereo now on my 1.5 hour commute to work. The doors will take a bit more work if you want to go with a larger speaker, and the door panels take a few more steps to remove -- but you can find the video at Bentley.com or on Rennlist.

Great. So 4 speakers and sub replacement all plug n play? Looks factory? Do you think the door speakers and tweeters will be just as easy if you don't go bigger than factory?

Yes all plug and play into factory speaker mounts for dash and rear and new speakers on Bose sub box screw right into mounting space 5.25 inch size. If you keep a 4 inch speaker in the doors you will need to cut apart the old speaker and use the teardrop plastic mount. I think there are a few older posts that describe the process. To add a 5.25 in the door panel, you will need to dremel some of the interior plastic from the stock bose speaker box in the doors. Also add some dynamat while you are at it.

The jbl gto 328 is a 3.5 inch coax with cone and tweeter. So you could just remove the Bose tweeter. You could replace it too with a separate but that would require a little splicing and solder.

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Just to check - you're driving all this through the Bose amp?

Yes, all driven off the stock Bose amp for now, but that may change when I put in the door speakers. The reason it works off the stock amp is b/c the JBL speakers are 2 ohm just like the bose speakers (and the other specs on these speakers, e.g., 91 sensitivity etc). The magnets on the JBL speakers actually are SMALLER than the Bose, but the upgrade in materials for the actual cones/tweeters makes it sound phenomenal. [The bose amp is running my dash, doors, rear and sub JBL's and they sound terrific].

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Thanks. The reason I ask is that I've ordered a Kenwood KDC-BT958HD head unit and the Metra 70-1787 harness. I've also ordered a variety of antenna converters. I am planning to use the RCA phono plugs on the harness to connect to the pre-amp outputs of the receiver and run everything through the Bose amplifier, leaving the speakers alone for now. Sounds like I should definitely consider the JBLs for a future upgrade especially given their ease of installation. Couple of questions: 1. What antenna plug is in the car? It would need to be adapted to a Motorola one to go into the Kenwood (or most other head units I guess) 2. Any recommendations on microphone placement in a convertible for the Bluetooth telephony microphone? I'm probably just going to have it near the instrument cluster or center console. My expectation is that it is going to be poor to useless for telephony anyway (compared to a Bluetooth headset.)

sda911, how do you remove the sub box?

You mentioned my thread in the 6speed forum, but here's my '04 C2. My car started life with the base (non-Bose) audio, relocated the HVAC controls and a new pioneer head unit to the lower console, custom fit an ipad mini into the dash, and replaced the speakers (check for another recent thread in this forum). My primary focus wasn't trying to achieve amazing SQ, the car is just too noisy and I have little interest in adding the weight of heavy amps, subwoofers, etc., but I wanted a modern dash with an internet connected GPS/traffic system (Waze is awesome), be able to stream music, and have bluetooth phone capability. Mission accomplished, and not in that GWB sort of way...

I did mine the budget way: Moved the heater controls to the bottom, installed an Alpine CD player just above it, and put a flat Lexan panel in the space above. I fashioned my own trim ring around the heater/stereo controls using a Dremel. That was a LOT of work. Then I purchased Ipad Mini and Iphone suction cup mounts and put them on the Lexan panel. I bought the wifi OBDII interface, and I run the DashCmd app on the Ipad mini. The girl I'm dating says it looks like something out of Star Trek. haha. It helps out greatly when the temps start creeping up above 200. I just turn on the A/C and that second fan brings the temps back in check. I think I spent about $80 for everything (including $45 for the old Alpine, the butane soldering iron and Lexan panels). The sound is leaps and bounds above what the factory CR-210 pushed out. I found out that the previous owner had some nice components installed in the doors and rear quarter panels. It gave me new appreciation for my car. See my dropbox folder for install pics: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sjz0xesxsvew51o/fOAGlBDTjY

To remove the Bose sub box in the 2004 996 coupe - you first put down the rear seats then: 1. carefully remove the bose black surrounds on the two ports by pulling out from the top center/sides with your fingers -- note the plastic retaining posts bend/break easily -- ask me how I know..., 2. remove the center torx bolt below each port; 3. slide the whole box forward toward you/front of car; 4. detach speaker cable/clip on rear (driver's) side of box; 5 remove box from the car (I did not remove the rear seat receivers as in the Sharkwerks write up -- sub box removed easily w/o doing so in my case); 6 undo about 2 dozen or more small torx bolts; 7. separate plastic top and bottom of bose sub box; 8. remove 5.25 bose woofers and replace with your choice of 2 ohm JBL GTO series or Infiniti Kappa (or your other favorite high sensitivity/2 ohm speakers) in 5.25' or 6" size -- the 5.25 inch are plug and play, the 6 inch fit but you have to push them in to fit between the plastic sides of the box (held in place by the force only -- and I don't mean star wars luke) 9. add some foam to the sub box and/or dynamat (foam from Target twin bed mattress pad cut a few pieces to fit) 10. plug in your new speakers using existing wires (small clip is negative/striped wire, large is positive/solid wire) 11. Put all back together by reversing steps and pump it up. You can look at the Sharkwerks ECU removal procedure which also requires removal of the bose sub box in the 996 w/bose: http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/techni...s-gt2-gt3.html Here is a link for removing other interior trim in the 996: http://www.22mm.cn/porsche/manual2/p...m_body_int.pdf

Today I removed the rear carpeting/foam from the rear of the coupe and used 2 layers of dynamat extreme over the rear deck, along with audimute peacemaker 2mm soundproofing attached with 3m spray adhesive to the stock foam covering (underside of the rear compartment cover panels). Noticeable improvement and reduction in cabin noise on the highway. Spent about 2 to 3 hours to do the rear compartment. I downloaded a free dB meter called decibel 10th, for my iphone. At idle the passenger compartment is reading about 60 with peak at 65 db with air conditioning turned off. Around the block at speeds up to 40 mile per hour at 3k rpm DB is reading 72 with peak at 80 db. Highway speeds of 65 to 70 mph 80 to 84 db with 91 peak (going over bumps etc). Don't know what it was before I installed the dynamat in the doors and rear compartment. But, any others with stock setup can download the iphone app and post your cabin specs to compare. Next weekend maybe will do the same under the rear seats and front of cabin.

I find that the stock radio fits my needs just fine, what's horrific is the antenna and lack of reception range. What did you guys do with the new radio antennas? Having a cab complicates things for me even more.

When I added an aftermarket head unit to my 996, the stock antenna was used. Reception was even worse with the aftermarket unit. FM was terrible and AM was almost non-existent. I mostly listened to Sirius XM.

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Crap, that's not the answer I was hoping for. LOL

I'm definitely going to have to look at this later.... http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...tion/?p=245267

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So, has anyone in here done the "add wire to the antenna amp in the A-pillar" to improve FM reception? The FM reception in my '99 cab has always sucked, and I'd love to improve it.

Still loving my ipad mini using bluetooth FM modulation through stock head unit. Keeps RDS display of songs on your rpm gauge. Using Spotify, Apple Music and Waze is awesome in your car! 8E9B358E-0B26-42C5-B2CA-E88E364BC1F0_zpsjaeziqbq.jpg 512296B5-F19F-490D-9111-F9752D8360DB_zpsvlwh5aoh.jpg

Bwahaha that's awesome!

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You got me thinking... Now that Amazon has the Kindle Fire for less than $50 what would it take to install one in the car and use it as a music storage and streaming device? What did it take for you to put together your setup?

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By the way they sell that trim piece for your climate control at the bottom.

Having a cab definitely lowers your options for subs, at least at a decent price.

Thanks that pic is before I finished it. I am using the iSimple Hands-Free Calling and Music Streaming Kit with Control Button for Smartphones - Frustration-Free Packaging - Black: Amazon.ca: Electronics iSimple Hands-Free Calling and Music Streaming Kit with Control Button for Smartphones - Frustration-Free Packaging - Black: Amazon.ca: Electronics The ipad is simply connected via bluetooth to this. I hacked a USB charger into my phone plug to charge the ipad. So when the key comes on ipad comes on when key goes off ipad turns off. You need it jailbroken to do this.

The 996TT We bought has a pioneer Dual Din head unit installed. along with a amp and cross over in the frunk. Dayton audio speakers (5.25) in the doors and dash (4"? and a 1" tweeter hence the crossover) But the Rear Speakers aren't hooked up! I plan on trying some 4" coaxials with an extra amp in the frunk, and see how it sounds. I could really use to remove the head unit to add an extra set of RCA cables for the new rear speakers/amp, and the AUX in cable while I'm back there(the Bluetooth doesn't seem to like high . Will it remove the same way the OEM unit does? with screws in the side? Or will it be held in with tabs etc...? It has the flimsy plastic bezel around it, so i figured there might be some tabs/latches hiding back there? Thanks! -Levi

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Has anyone installed the parrot asteroid smart in a 996 yet? Pics and feedback?

Just wanted to say thanks for the advice to change the speakers out to JBL GTO series. Wow! What a difference! I have a 2002 turbo with the Bose system. It sounded like crap. Now I want to just sit in my car and listen to the radio, it is that good. The newer GTO series (xx9) has changed to 3 Ohm from 2 Ohm, but doing some reading on various sites, I figured it wouldn't hurt to use the new 3 Ohm speakers for the dash, since I couldn't find 328's. My setup is: Dash: JBL GTO 329 (took 5 minutes to install each side) Doors: JBL GTO 528 (had to dremel the holes, but about an hour each side to remove and replace door panels, and dremel the enclosures to enlarge.) Subwoofer: JBL GTO 528, dynamat inside of enclosure, and stuffed with fiber). Rear panels: JBL GT) 329 (5 minutes to install each) This sounds surprisingly good! Other than a few minutes dremeling the door enclosures to make them a bit larger, and very slight trimming of some plastic on the dash and rear panel enclosures, the whole thing was plug-and-play. I am so happy that I haven't spent the money to install all new amps and speakers. Thanks for the great info! A few hundred dollars and an afternoon of work, and what a difference! Now maybe I will get the CAI kit so that I can have Sirius and bluetooth: https://cai-store.com/products/porsc...rade-kit-98-02 Justin

I just upgraded to a double din Pioneer AVH4200 (Apple play, bluetooth, backup camera, etc) with Focal Amp and Speakers. HUGE difference. Byron at Seismic Autosound in Concord, CA fabbed up the amp brackets and mounts for the Focal speakers in the doors. Superior work and outcomes. The Bose system was weak and underwhelming in comparison.

Anyone have pics of the GTO speakers installed in the dash pods? lgyee4, which focal speakers did you go with? I have 5 channel alpine amp and Pioneer DEH-80PRS....still with stock speakers. Time to make the final upgrade.

I did the GTO 328s in the dash and rear side panels and the GTO 528s in the sub box Running an alpine head unit Just have the 528s in the doors left to do Not sure you'll see much of the fronts if I take a pic They were real quick and easy to change ouT Just needed small ratchet to get in at the torx bolts under the windshield Agree that they vastly improve the sound

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I have a 2009 Carrera S, new to me as of April this year. Build sheet says it has the BOSE high end system, the installer said I do not have a sub woofer. I have been trying to figure this out, searching forums etc, can't seem to get a definitive answer. I just installed (not me personally) an Alpine INE 967, the blue tooth and navigation volume was so low I had them swap it out for the 957. We went through all of the menus, maxed out the volumes etc, still very, very low. The volume is much better but still low. Additionally the radio whether in SIRIUS, iPod or FM is still not that loud. If i drive with the windows open it isn't loud enough. I've been going through all of the menus, EQ settings etc. I am now considering new speakers, amps etc, getting quotes of $2 to $3K. Have you had the same issues and if so did the new speakers help? Thanks.

The Ox, do you have an external power amp? Your HU has 18 W peak, that might me not sufficient if you are driving the factory build in speakers with your HU only. Convertible and the coupe have subwoofers. In the convertible its in the passenger footwell next to the center console, in the coupe behind the rear seats.

Thanks for the quick reply. No external amp, the installer told me they are using the BOSE amp. I'll look for the sub behind the seats. He also said I don't have a sub woofer, I thought that was odd. I need to gather all my information and go back, again. Surprised, it's a high end shop, Lambos, Ferraris, Bentleys, I don't think he really understands the 997 BOSE system.

Here is your system... Ox, Your 997 OEM Bose system is a 7 channel/13 speaker system. My best advice is to use the 6-channel preamp output of your Alpine system and feed two 4 channel Alpine amps. Don't use the speaker level outputs because at only 18 RMS, that's really not enough power to produce a nice sound over top of the ambient noise of the Porsche. (notice the location of the subs) I wish you all the best!

I have a thread on this board that describes my recent upgrade of my '03 C2 Coupe with Bose CDR 23, including some crappy photos. I had installed an Alpine CDE-HD-149BT single DIN head unit, and an Alpine MRV-V500 power amp. I avoided double DIN units for safety reasons (distraction). I obtained full bluetooth functionality, multiple ways to stream, and cleaner sound. I decided to see how I liked it, before deciding about speakers. When you combine functionality and sound, I think the smartest (best) expenditure is in the receiver/amp section, not the speakers. Even limiting it to sound, I don't think speakers are the weak link in this system, although I know that others feel differently. Where you should begin in upgrading a sound system depends on what you have to begin with, is how I have always viewed it. We disconnected the rear panel speakers, so I am running the dash 2-ways, the door units, and the rear band-pass speakers. The improvement in sound is very noticeable, particularly the ability to dial in meaningful bass response. Maybe I will stick in a set (or two) of Focals in the front, at some point. It really isn't a priority, at the moment. Based on both sound quality and appearance, I have no intention of messing with the band-pass unit in the back. I see no reason at all. Or, I hear no reason at all.

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Hope I didn't waste your time. I have been searching for answers to this and when I saw this I didn't notice it was a 996 forum. I thought I had struck gold. I'll continue my quest...

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Ox, if the installer used the Bose OEM amp, then you should be getting plenty of power to the OEM 997 speakers. However, if he bypassed the amp and used the 18 watt/ channel output of the Alpine HU, then I say... that's definitely the problem. The BOSE processor and amp require an optical digital signal from the HU and so I'm not completely sure how he got the Alpine's analog preamp output signal to the Bose system unless he's using an analog to digital optic conversion unit. That's possible. He probably used a simple wiring harness kit with optical conversion like this... http://www.carcommunications.co.uk/n...or-for-porsche There are a few options to upgrading these systems, but if you're going to DIY, then you need to locate a proper wiring schematic of the audio system. Cheers!

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Thanks for the info. I have an appt at another shop on Thursday to have them look at the job the other guys did. If it's wrong, I'm going to see them about the bill, approximately $100 to check out the install. I've been back to the original installer twice and do not believe they understand this car. They keep telling me I don't have a sub woofer, I had a dealer check my VIN today, I do. Plus the phone and nav are almost inaudible, and the stereo (Sirius, Nav & iPod) just are'nt as loud as they should be. I'll keep you apprised. Thanks again for the info, I appreciate it.

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UPDATE: I brought the car to a different place for a second opinion. Bottom line, the original installer didn't know what he was doing, did not understand this car, everything now works, sounds the way I thought it should. Sub woofer works, all volume levels, radio sirius & fm, ipod, cd, nav, phone, all as loud as I want or need them to be. The installer told me, when you install a new HU in this car, the first thing you need to do is turn up the volume levels, fade settings, balance, sub woofer etc on the OLD radio and basically transfer them to teach the new fiber optic connection and the new radio. Wires were taped not soldered, sloppy work from the original installer. They also installed a piece that allows me to use the set up menu anytime I want as opposed to having to use a toggle switch located to the right of right leg. Couldn't be happier with the results. Prior to this, if I was driving with the windows down and the volume maxed out I could barely hear the radio etc, forget the nav. Tomorrow I'm going to take the bill to the original installer and tell him to do the right thing and cover the charges. He's been around 25+ years, has a stable of high end cars in his parking lot, I think he will do the right thing and cover the bill. I keep going back to several things I was originally told: the car does not have a sub woofer, the nav volume can not be any louder. It just didn't make any sense, evidently it did not.

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Congratulations! It always helps to have someone work on your car that knows exactly what to do RIGHT... and right the first time! I was shoutin' BS when you said that he told you there wasn't a subwoofer with the Bose system. I was thinking either someone removed it or he doesn't know what he's talking about. One of the best parts of the Porsche/Bose system is the sub system. But it's the Bose processor (i.e. compression, EQ, etc.) that really makes it shine. I didn't know about the need to recalibrate the Bose processor/amp because of the optical signal, but it makes sense. Glad you were in good hands! How much did it set you back to fix the other person's mistake?

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Thanks, and yes, the original person told me, yeah we've worked on a lot of 911s, makes me wonder what other people have accepted as "normal". I'm not that guy. $400 labor (4 1/2 hours, I was there the whole time taking pictures), $39 for the set up piece to bypass the toggle, $20 wires/parts, plus 8.625% NYS tax, $498 out the door. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow when I present them the bill

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UPDATE: Presented the bill to the original shop this morning, they were gracious, apologized for my inconvenience, used it as a learning experience and cut me a check. That's the way an ethical shop works, good for business in the long run.

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It's great that gracious and took care of you, but I have to wonder how many times he's gotten away with the "that's perfectly normal" line... I hate those guys... scumbags

Thanks for the recommendation on the 2ohm JBL's! Others have used the GTO328's, but I was able to fit the slightly larger GTO428's into the dash of my 2002 w/ Bose. It required hacking up the plastic mounting basket a bit, but I got them to fit and they sound good. Now if only I could find the discontinued GTO528's to replace the blown door drivers!

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Here you go... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-JB...0AAOSwo4pYJ3vW

Has anyone attempted using polyfill in the Bose door speaker boxes? Wondering if that would give a similar increased clarity to what seems to be found when doing the same to the subwoofer.

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It's such a small enclosure anyway, I don't think it will make much of a difference. Are you sure you're not wanting a more tighter sound? A clearer sound is a different matter all together and could only be obtained first by eliminating unwanted noises in the car environment... normally around the doors, firewall areas, and all flooring, but remember we're talking Porsches here not Lincolns... exhaust/engine noise in the cabin is a plus. Once you've acoustic treatment around the car's weak areas, then replace the speakers with newer drivers. There are a lot of options from Alpine and other top brands.

Cool thanks for the insight. Luckily I think we are on the same wavelength - ordered new drivers and some Damplifier/Luxury Liner/Overkill from Second Skin audio. I plan on doing some "tactical" deadening - looking to minimize road noise/vibrations but keep the engine noise as something I can hear. I'll post a thread when I start the project.

Sounds (pun intended) great! Post lots of pictures... many visual learners on RL. hahaha

Hello all, Just wanted to share my planned 'spring 2017' project with you all, which should truly bring my '99 911 C4 Cab into the 21st century. (yes indeed, the black one despised by almost every Porsche enthusiast on the planet with Tiptronic, tear-shaped headlights and all, but I really couldn't care less, since I love the looks this car and how it drives, it brings me to cloud no. 9 in spring and summer !) Now I am not sure yet what type of speaker system is my 911, but it sounds crap as compared to other cars and systems I've owned. So in my search of finding good material to create a good SQ system (does not have to be loud), I did (or at least I think I did) my research and came up with the following project. What I have in stock already: - Pioneer AVIC-F88DAB double-DIN multimedia/navigation unit with DAB+, Android Auto etc. - DAB(+) antenna - Double-DIN EuroMotorspeed Double-DIN kit - OEM Porsche 9965522530101C storage bin for creating the bare minimum in terms of that extra bit of storage e.g. a smartphone (I intend to move the HVAC unit all the way to the bottom, with this just above it) What I intend to do / intend to order: - 2 sets of JBL GTO 429 (for dash + rear, which are exactly similar), which I intend to hook up to the 4 channels available on the Pioneer - 1 set of JBL GTO 529 (for doors), which I intend to hook up to an additional Alpine ampilifer that I will install in the frunk. - 1 Alpine BBX-T600 amp (frunk), with adjustable filter settings, which will be hooked up to the GTO 529 set in the doors. What I still need to find out before ordering the JBL's and Alpine: - Is anything existing installed behind the rear speaker covers ? (Will do an audio test and remove the covers to see) - Will do the same for the doors. - Is all the wiring there ? - Do I have a Bose system or something else ? (I reckon the latter is true, but need to physically check) OK, that's as far as the plan goes, and as always: 'Fail to plan, is plan to fail', although I'm sure there will be obstacles to overcome. Any ideas, tips or interest by others in doing the same or something similar in the foreseeable future ? I would be happy to sync with you and describe the steps involved in getting there, including photos.

I need a new stereo. Mine has stopped working. I don't need (or want) Navigation, DVDs, etc. I'd like a single DIN unit that has BT and a USB. I don't even need a cd player. Our unit has bose speakers that are driven by a bose amp. Can I keep the speakers and buy a cheap head unit that will work with the bose amp? I'm trying to not get too involved in a stereo system, but I know that in my corvette if you bypassed the bose amp, it all sounded like garbage. Basic needs here, what do you suggest? It's an 02 cab.

Red5, Just a simple "Beware if someone installs a deck for you" I recently purchased a 99 911 with the Bose Factory upgraded system, original Porsche deck sounded like crap and was working intermittently. I went to my local Fry's Electronics since they did such a spectacular job on my '06 Silverado (did deck, all 4 speakers and a subwoofer added). The installer is a smart guy and knows his stuff, but he got in a hurry when doing the deck for the 911. I had them install a Pioneer DEH-X8800BHS. He talked me into leaving everything else and just try the hu out before pouring lots of $ into speakers and such. I liked it. I didn't love it, but the sound is much better. However, he had me order the wiring kit from somewhere else as they didn't carry it and also the amplified antenna adapter. After the install, I noticed that my car would be dead after sitting a couple of days and had to keep it on a trickle charger. Be aware, not all blue wires get connected together if you do it yourself. I am not a wiring genius but my neighbor is pretty good with stereos and we figured it out that the installer connected the blue wire that tells the amp to turn on/off was stuck in a loop since he connected all 3 blue wires to the deck blue wire (I hope this is making sense, I am still a little dumbfounded on it, lol). We cut off unnecessary blue wire, taped it off and now no more dead battery and everything works as it should. However, I love, as others have mentioned, to listen to the engine more than anything, but simple freeway driving is for music time and I want more sound. It looks like the speakers (I will go with Focals most likely) and Bose amp will go next and also adding a small subwoofer (Kicker Hideaway 8" Low-Profile Subwoofer) will be next to replace. I have the Kicker amplified subwoofer in the Silverado and it is clean and plenty loud enough for me. I don't need to hear the car rattle while sitting at a traffic light. I wish I would have taken pictures...……..

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How have you concluded that it is a Bose amplifier? My 03 has Bose speakers, but the amp (since replaced) had no identification on it. Does yours?

Flyfishnick; Thanks for the heads up. I will do more research on the blue wires and such. thebowl; The speakers say Bose on them. And everything else is stock. I am assuming that it has a stock bose amp as well. I just ordered this interface. Amazon Amazon and a cheap head unit. Hope they both work with this amp. I'll let you guys know if I run into problems. As per the blue wires that turn on the amp. If you leave this wire disconnected won't that leave the amp turned off? Where should I connect said blue wire?

You need to make sure you do NOT have the bose optical system Im pretty sure that did not start until 2003. If not then you are good to go with any nice head unit. CAI has easy install kits all equipped for our Porsches! i.e https://cai-store.com/products/porsc...rade-kit-98-02

Thank you. I pulled the old unit out and verified that it did not have the optical system. Hope all will go well. I'm starting out with a cheap head unit just to see how everything works. Once I am happy with it all I may invest in a double DIN navigation unit and take on the larger installation. I wouldn't mind having a back up camera. Perhaps I will get a high def front camera with night vision and rive with no headlights. (kidding) Everything arrives tomorrow.

Finished my stereo install today. Wanted to post some notes and maybe some pics. Car is a 2002 with Bose and CD Changer. Couldnt find much info but I didnt find another post referencing using two different wiring harnesses. Metra 70-1787 and 70-1784. It required using the black harness from the 1784 and the red harness from the 1787. No RCAs were used on the red harness, in fact I cut them off to keep it a bit cleaner. The only wire used in the red harness was the amp turn on (blue-white) wire. I chose Pioneer AVH-211EX as a budget double DIN. The metra install kit instructions were really terrible and not much help at all. Had to remove the entire trim ring around the stereo and switch panel from the upper portion. This allowed removal of the radio mount behind it. Trimmed off the appropriate pieces but then realized there was a double din looking metal part behind it that had to be removed. Used the microbypass to avoid taking apart the center console for the parking brake switch. Install was reverse of removal. The metra kit does not quite match the factory black but for the price it is hard to beat. So much better than the factory headunit and looks much better. Now on to the speakers. Had a set of JBL GTO 528 and alpine s-410 to install. Ill try and post pics when I get them off my phone of what it looks like, the wire harness I made and where the amp turn on goes in the red plug.

I ran a cheap aftermarket unit and it was terrible. Pulled it out and re-installed the CDR-220. The sound I get from this POS is terrible. It doesn't do anything well. Next up- I want to remove the entire Bode system and go direct with a head unit and run the speaker wire myself. Is the Bose system tied into anything else? If I remove the amp in the frump, the speakers and the CDR 220 am I going to run into something tied into the security system? Is gutting the old system a feasible way to go?

Did mine DIY with the Metra kit and the Kenwood DMX110BT. Whole project was only like $250.

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Hello Dennis I think I have your old c4s from Colorado Springs I was looking around and came across your thread what are the odds for this

Does anyone have the part # for this fuel pump assembly bulkhead lid? It's much deeper than the one that came with my 996tt and is exactly what I need for the upgraded fuel system that was installed on my car. I've searched several PET catalogs and all I can find is 996 504 471 00. This is the part # for the lid I already own (shallow), not the lid I'm looking for (the deeper one).

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parts fiche on auto Atlanta site reports part#: 99650447101 . A google search of that part number results with images of the cover you�re looking for. Hope that helps.

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Yes! Thank you so much!

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I think that�s fantastic! I�d love to hear how it�s doing! Feel free to reach out any time. I can give you plenty of information on the maintenance and modifications during the time that I owned it.

Where did you get the storage area where the cassette storage was?

Suncoast Parts sells them

My headunit evolutions Navi unit -> Becker 7992 (PCM not working) -> PCRN + full operating PCM Now there are at the same time: radio, cassette, CD-changer, second radio, bluetooth (audio and telephone), microSD, line-IN, navi

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Do you know why there are two different of covers for 4Wd cars?

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when I looked into it for ya, I was using the parts fische for the TT as they are all AWD. Under that spec, i only saw one part# available. Perhaps you�re looking under the standard (non-turbo 996) and there are two: one for the Carrera and one for the Carerra 4 and 4s? Regardless, I believe the part # I referenced should fix you up, but I�ve never held that part in my hand, so I couldn�t be 100%. Let me know if you�re still in doubt and I can pull mine off my C4s to confirm the number stamped on it.

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Is your car a 996.2? I didn't think the Classic radio worked in our cars, but maybe that's just the non-MOST equipped ones?

The Dome in the trunk of my 03 C4 Cab is the taller one..

Yes, its 2002 C4S 996.2 non-MOST. MOST cars needs aftermarket amplifiers and some more wireworks. but classic radio extremely fits this interior

Here's ours:

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Does the 996 not get the Porsche Classic Plus Infotainment system - which seemed bigger ?

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Yes it does.

Aaa ... ok - that explains it. Has anybody been able to get one in the US ?

After countless thread reading on audio upgrades for my 996 cab, I decided to think outside the box and man did it pay off. So I wanted to share. First I bought the aux line upgrade from Becker in NJ for $99, and while not necessary it did make a great improvement to audio quality with my factory speakers, it still wasn't the audio quality that we wanted. The price to make our car sound the way we wanted, and too also keep it relatively stock just wasn't adding up. But then we thought, what if we just bought an awesome bluetooth speaker. The JBL boombox is a little pricey at $500, but compared to the budget of a complete custom audio job, it's a bargain and the sounds it AMAZING. Plus it isn't just stuck in my car, we can use it every where. Just my quick two cents!

Just installed a Pioneer W4660NEX With wireless CarPlay in my ‘99 C2 w/ the amp & DSP. It probably took about 10 hours over two nights but overall it went well. I got the head unit from Best Buy. I got the Metra mounting kit & wiring harness, radio removal keys and USB connector from Amazon. Crutchfield was sold out of the stereo & I didn’t want to wait. Some notes: The radio keys wouldn’t go in all the way and lock. I had to take the HVAC unit out first and help the radio along Yup, routing the HVAC wires was a pain in the butt for me. I could have done a better job routing them since they barely made it to the edge of the faceplate but it was enough I removed the cig lighter and installed a USB port. It took me a while to figure out how to get that out. I also had to cut out the sleeve around it at the back so I could screw the port in I also decided to put the mic in the stock location on the left of the dashboard. I had to take the instrument cluster completely off to route the wire. I put a towel and rag down to keep the cluster from marring the dash when I was wrangling it but I wasn’t careful enough. I ended up with a couple small divots by the ignition Hopefully they’ll go away with some time and heat. The mic sounds fine in that location. No worse than my Subaru with the mic by the mirror (just put the same system in that car too) Based on a suggestion from Reddit, I mounted the GPS antenna under the plastic piece by the windshield wipers and ran it through a rubber grommet to the firewall. It took me like half an hour to get that #!%&@ grommet back in! Like a lot of others, the protrusion on the bottom of the Metra kit was too big to fit in the dash opening. I was able to shave the bottom 1/8” off of it and keep the screw in. That was enough The only problem I’m having is that Siri, voicemail, basically any iPhone generated output sounds tinny. However, music from the iPhone sounds fine Here are the obligatory pix: Before A/C relocated Running the mic Done!

Kenwood,Alpine amp.Morel speakers by CAI audio,Rob Birch.

Can someone verify my build list for my 2001 (non-bose), please? The only thing I'm not sure about needing is the 3.5mm to 3RCA. I got this after looking at some posts Metra 70-1784 Radio Wiring Harness USB 3.0 flush Metra 70-1787 Radio Wiring Harness Metra Electronics 40-VW10 Factory Antenna to Aftermarket Radio Adapter 3.5mm Male Straight to 3RCA Female Metra 999605B DIN/DDIN In-Dash Kit And I will be picking up a random 7" at a local store. It looks like the in-dash kit may need a little shaving to make it work.

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Also, don't forget to buy radio removal keys like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WWDVKY2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WWDVKY2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

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I believe the rca adapter would allow for hdmi input in if wanted(?) and yes I bought those actually. Everything came in today, just in time for the weekend. Now time to buy the double din at Best Buy or a local audio shop. edit: thank you for the input!

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Maybe. Some HUs have a mini HDMI output so it depends on what stereo you get. Not sure about RCA to HDMI. I always think of those as analog type cables where HDMI is digital. But there's no reason why you couldn't put a digital signal through them.

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You were correct. Only needed 1781 harness. I scratched my head for awhile after testing the unit. Got it all hooked up and working though. What an interesting new project. Where did you get that crest? Looks great! Or is it a sticker?

hello dennis intrested on hearing on some of maintenance and mods on the 2002 c4s car is doing great

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I'd be happy to provide you with that information. When I traded the car at Porsche of Colorado Springs, I included a binder with all the maintenance records, a laminated window sticker, etc. I'm hopeful that you received that when you bought the car. I believe that I still have a spreadsheet that summarizes all the maintenance and modifications that were done to the car, and I'd be happy to share that with you. I'll send you a PM with my email address. I enjoyed the car very much and I hope you are enjoying it too. Here's a a shot of the car that I took in the fall of 2009 right after installing the winter wheels and tires for the season.

I'm trying to send you a message, but I don't seem to have that option. You may not yet have the ability to send and receive messages because you're a new user to this site.

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Sorry for the delay. It is the crest found on the key fobs, and it is metal. I attached it with 2 sided tape.

Does anyone know the part number of the piece you cut (where the AC and factory head unit used to live) to get the Double DIN to fit? I'm trying to go back to a single DIN with the AC and head unit in the upper section.

996-552-131-04** or 996-552-231-11** Support Frame - part # is year and color dependent. See here: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=809-01 and http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=809-02

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JACKPOT! THANKS!

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That does look awesome. The only thing that could make that look better is a custom leather wrap

I just got a pioneer 4500nex getting ready to do the install. Where are you guys putting your GPS receiver?

Ideally, I would like to run a center console delete. Has anyone successfully integrated their climate control functions with their touchscreen multi media player?

So, I am perhaps a little confused about my 'new to me' 2002 turbo. I got the vehicle with an aftermarket, single DIN unit that ejects the LCD screen and folds it upwards. Well, this was installed sticking out of the dash about 1 inch (so as to clear the controls above it...) The HVAC controls are then hidden. On my car, these controls are ABOVE the Single DIN radio. I see some here where they are below in their own 'console' ... I don't HAVE that console, it is not on my car, just carpeted tunnel... The car came with the BOSE enhancement, there is a amp next to the spare tire, with approximately 10,000 wires that appear to have been cut and crimped with other wires... doesn't look stock. I would love just to have a lower console with a storeage area, but don't need CD trays .. Most likely I will get a modern single DIN unit, nothing fancy , that will BT to my phone etc.. Also, the installer wrapped EVERYTHING in blank electrical tape, which is now gooo.. that is all coming out. I am not a professional installer, but I know enough not to use that crap. Can someone suggest a lower console that would look nice, have a storage area (or two) and look stock-ish? Bad Pic I know, you can see the radio sticking out (it is out of there now, anyone want it?... new was $500!) and the HVAC above it and no lower console.

Ah! Someone installed the GT3 Console Delete in your car, hence the lack of console and just the carpeted section. I have one in my Targa and love it! Really adds to the leg room. A center console should be fairly easily found on here or eBay, and a straight forward retrofit. I take it you don't have heated seats?

I thought the 996 turbo had heated seats as standard (?)

I decided to go a different route on my car and replaced the double din I had with an Atoto A6. This is a full Android Auto head unit that can be customized like any Android tablet, but also runs carplay. One draw to it was the ability to run torque for OBD stats realtime. Also the interface is completely customizable. If I wanted I could add TPMS sensors as well. This brings my 99 up to having all the features of a new car.

Looking for some post-install advice: While the car is on, or I am driving, the unit performs great. However, when I start up my beloved 996, the stereo (Kenwood) will be at the initial setup screen. That leads me to believe it loses power as the car turns off and resets itself (?). Any hints on how to troubleshoot it?

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Sounds like your constant power wire could not be hooked up correctly. Does your clock reset and you lose any setting changes when you start your car? That is a clear sign the unit is not getting power while the key is switched off. By chance, did you use an aftermarket wiring harness to connect to the factory harness? The one I used (Metra brand IIRC) had the constant power and accessory power switched, so I was effectively draining the battery while driving the car. Not good! It can be a bit confusing since the constant power wire in the car is usually red with a yellow stripe and the accessory power is usually yellow with a red stripe, which may or may not correspond to what is on the aftermarket wiring harness. Did you do the install yourself or take it to an installer?

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Does your clock reset: Edit: On stereo - Yes. On car dash - No. did you use an aftermarket wiring harness: Yes a Metra 70-1787 Radio Wiring Harness Metra 70-1787 Radio Wiring Harness I installed it myself, yes. What was your fix to draining the battery via this harness? Or are you just letting it happen...

I was able to switch the pins in the Metra harness to correctly align to the Porsche harness, which solved my problem. If your clock is not resetting then you are getting power when the key is turned off, so I don't think the harness is the issue in your case.

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My response may have been misleading without the context: On stereo - Yes it resets. On car dash - No it does not.

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Ok, sorry for the confusion. I was only referring to the clock on your Kenwood. If that is resetting, then the constant power connection is the issue. In that case, I would recommend tracing the constant power wire from the Kenwood harness, through the Metra adapter to the Porsche plug and confirming that it is connected correctly.

I wonder if that was a factory delete And I live in Phoenix AZ so I ALWAYS have heated seats... but I don't think I do, or if I do, there is not switch to turn them on. I believe I *do* like the missing console, but I also am a little envious of the full screen size head units I see here that look so beautiful on these cars and modernizes the interior... I wonder if the HVAC unit could be moved without much hassle if I wanted to (ie, the wire harness is long enough. I would presume Porsche would have the same harness regardless and just have the excess wires stuffed back in there....

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The console delete is definitely a "thing". I don't have any direct information about buying parts to get the console back. You might try CAI. They do Porsche audio and might be able to point you in the right direction. Suncoast also sells a lot of Porsche and aftermarket interior parts. eBay would be a lot cheaper as long as you know exactly what to buy and can find it! https://cai-store.com/ https://www.suncoastparts.com/ABUS.html

Well as I think about it, I kinda like the cleaner look, maybe retro back to my '88 model... I have a small radio I have successfully installed in the 1DIN slot, I don't have to move the HVAC... Best of all, my 'CPA' (wife) was delighted to learn that you have to pay to take it out, and pay to put it back in.... So we will stay with this, and thanks to the group for the insights.

I had to swap the pins also. Just got the horseshoe back, waiting for rear center to come.

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That looks really good. How does it sound? Do you know how well it works with iPhone? I'd also like to hear what you think of it after using it for a week or too. I have a bluetooth adapter on my OEM radio and it works great, but your setup looks interesting.

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I like the idea of moving the storage space up and moving the heater controls to the bottom. I'd also like to know how it works with the Iphone. I need to solve where to mount the Iphone as well.

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works great with my i phone. I have a phone mount just not in the pick. I was going to change the lighter but i use it for charging. I plan on installing a dedicated usb just haven�t decided where.

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Which Pioneer unit did you use? I've been looking at Crutchfield and find that people are installing units that they say don't fit, not that that means anything, other than maybe they haven't tried yet.

I used the 4500 NEX it has wireless apple carplay and android auto. I can not recommend it enough. Phone stays in the pocket. Spotify or Waze on the screen. The google assistant works great so voice control for all the sound. I did the speed wire and use the ASL (which will adjust the volume as speed increases). While not perfect its good enough I don't need to adjust the volume more than one click or two at any give time. I put the USB chargers in the console under the stereo. It looks good but you need small hands to plug it in. The red circle is a wireless charger Where are you guys getting the Porsche splash screens and backgrounds?

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Crutchfield says that doesn't fit either. So as long as I order what's in your other threads and posts, as far as Metra adapters, it'll work.

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It should. I don't know what your starting with but I had the PCM 1. Navigation unit. Mine basically just slid in. Screwed it to the sides of the metra and shoved it in. M

So I did some quick digging. On the crutchfield site when I entered in all my info it says it fits with mods. I did not need to mod anything other than connect the wiring harness. Whatever you do get the installation kit. It comes with the harness, Metra trim adapter and radio adapter and instructions. Its totally worth the $$. If you don't have Nav you may need to do some mods. 1. You will need the AC controls in a lower compartment (mine were already on the bottom) 2. The metra installation instructions say you need to remove a crosspiece in the horseshoe, but several people have reported that you don't so take it with a grain of salt. Below are the metra isructions You may or may not need to make this cut for a double DIN instalation the HVAC controls need to go to the bottom

I have a the factory single DIN and the cd changer. I'll take a pic tonight of the stuff that's there.

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A silly question really, can the existing CDC4 Porsche cd changer be connected to this unit ?

Hot off the press: "Porsche Introduces Touchscreens, Apple CarPlay for 1960s-Era 911s" https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a3...apple-carplay/ There is also a double DIN for the 996s, a pic in the article.

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If you want to go to a double-DIN head unit (Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine etc.) then the Metra instructions posted above will guide you through the steps. Starting with a single DIN unit like the CDR-220 means you will have to relocate HVAC to the lower stack (cables are plenty long enough to do so since this was a factory configuration) and lose the cup-holders above if you have them. I used a dremel to cut the plastic trim on mine and had no issues with fitment. Metra includes the trim pieces in the kit, including a replacement cubby, which is a great thing to add. I actually got an OEM Porsche piece which has the matching rubber mat and I did install a USB connection in the back of it. As others have mentioned, it works well but you need small fingers (or a pair of needle-nose pliers!) to install and remove the USB cable. I balked at the additional $$ for wireless Carplay but I would definitely go for it if I was to do it again. Having a wireless charging spot is a cool mod and looks slick with the cubby installed. I wonder if it would be strong enough to work through the plastic if mounted behind the dash on the bottom of the cubby??? Another excellent source of install reference info for 996's is Rod at cai-store.com. You can buy a complete system from him or just review his install instructions. I ended up buying the Focal component speakers set from him and am very happy with the results.

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Interesting thought about mounting a wireless charger below the cubby. I suspect it would work if you took the wireless charger out of its housing as that is how they do it with desks.. You would need to put a mark on the cubby so you know where to center it. I didn't want to mount my charger permanently, given the rate of phone growth Its only a couple of years before your phone wont fit in the cubby

Funny. I just put in a double DIN and Natalie's Carnival was the first song I listened to on my revamped sound system. Good song to fiddle with all the controls, see what does what.

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Hello Dennis hope all is well this is my email [email removed] if you still have that spreadsheet of the maintenance and mods still available for the c4s I�d appreciate it thank you happy holidays

Yes, I have it and I’d be happy to email it.

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My email was returned as undeliverable to this email address. The response from the remote server was: �552 1 Requested mail action aborted, mailbox not found�

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sorry typed in wrong email my eyes are not the same anymore here�s the correct one [email removed] thank you

I opted for a CarPlay unit that had the least amount of buttons or any flashy lighting M7yACWl.jpg

wish there were more options for double din/carplay unit with a physical volume ****. is the sony unit the only one? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV....html?tp=72357 too bad the porsche PCCM doesn't accommodate a backup camera

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Feel the same, and that's what I'm looking at if I decide not to get the PCCM+.

I am looking at this unit as well. Some of the reviews are a little discouraging though

Bringing this thread back to 2021. The JBLs are long discontinued. Has anyone used a newer speaker - alternative to the JBLs that is plug and play? I'd like to replace all the speakers in my Bose equipped 996.2 (Dash/Doors/Rears) thanks

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Where did you get the trim piece that says Porsche on it?

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​​​​​​ https://cai-store.com/collections/99...peaker-upgrade

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My new double din car stereo has no dial for volume either , which is a bit of a nuisance. The stereo also came with a little remote like a TV would have, which seemed rather pointless in what is essentially a two seater car. However, the stupid little remote has proven to be an effective gizmo to adjust the volume, or more importantly, to quickly advance through the Goddawful songs my wife chooses for the playlist without having to frantically search for the correct buttons on the stereo screen, which is most difficult to SEE in the daytime anyway.

I hate radios with a zillion buttons on them, but I also hate radios without an analog volume control that you can adjust without looking at a touch screen. Sony fits the bill for me... An easy to find volume ****, skip forward, skip back get used quite a bit without taking my attention off the road.

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​​​​​​​The bezel is the standard Metra one that most everyone has. I cut the logo on my plotter with just white vinyl

I don't have a **** but an up arrow button and a down arrow button. Don't have to look for them as they are right on the lower left of the unit. I would prefer a **** but the buttons are not a problem!

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Your pic shows cubby remaining in lowest position with HVAC controls above; this would be my preference but most trim part kits put the HVAC controls in lowest position. What was the source for your trim parts? Thanks!

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ssherman68, how do you like the Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX now that you've had it for a while? Other than the lack of a volume ****, it seems to be one of the better options for a wireless Android Auto compatible double DIN stereo.

In my opinion, this is the only way to go. Porsche OEM look, and the orange lights even match the rest of the interior. I wired the connection box into the glove compartment - it blows my mind that people actually mount it front and center, YIKES. Added a wireless CarPlay adapter ($100 on Amazon), and boom. Perfection.

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I have two of these. One in my Outback and one in my 911. I get connection issues with wireless CarPlay all the time. The unit seems to prefer wireless if that's what's set up so simply connecting with the wire will not solve it unless you turn off WiFi and sometimes power cycle the stereo (which means power cycling the car). I have more problems on my Outback than I do on the 911 for some reason. Same model stereo, same phone. I did email Pioneer about disabling wireless CarPlay but never got a reply. YMMV on Android. It might be better. The problem with this stuff is you have the code on the stereo and you have the code on the phone. The problem could be on either or on both, so you can get a lot of finger pointing. Not having the volume **** in the 911 is difficult. The volume control on the head unit is very small, hard to see and not lit up. You have to take your eyes off the road and really look at the unit to adjust the volume. There is also about a 1/4 second delay between when you hit the button and when the volume changes which makes it harder. In the Outback, it's not a big deal because that has steering wheel controls. I think the companies that make the stereos just assume you have steering wheel controls so they don't put in a volume ****. It also allows the installers to sell you another device to convert the steering wheel output to the stereo input. I can't say I wouldn't buy it again because it seems most all the head units have similar issues. The internet is full of stories about CarPlay and Android Auto not working. I think wireless CarPlay is still in its infancy. The Pioneer seemed to have the best stereo with wireless CarPlay at the time so that's what I got. There wasn't a wireless CarPlay unit out at the time with a volume ****.

I own a 986, but the dash and audio are much the same. Being dissatisfied with the Bluetooth dongle for the OEM head unit and never listening to radio, I eliminated the head unit entirely and now utilize a JL Audio MBT-RX Bluetooth Receiver plugged into my amplifier to stream audio directly from my iPhone (though any phone will work). This set up has worked flawlessly for me and my use.

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Well, those of us with a 996.1 don't have a glovebox, so that's out. Then, on top of that, PCCM+ doesn't support a backup camera (and I love the backup camera on my daily). Add in the lack of wireless Android Auto support, the fact that it's twice the price, and the fact that it's apparently much more difficult to install, and I've ruled out PCCM+. No question, there are some things about it that I really like (i.e., the volume **** and the OEM aesthetics), but I think the cons outweigh the pros on this one for me. Yeah, that's kind of what I'm afraid of. For every person that you hear say "once you go with CarPlay/Android Auto, you can never go back," there are almost as many people who say that they are plagued with connection issues. That might end up being a dealbreaker for me on the W4660NEX. The problem is that, like you say, there are so few good alternatives out there for double DIN Android Auto stereos, that unit might still end up being the least bad of all the options. Take the Kenwood DMX1037S . First, apparently Kenwood is not as good as Pioneer for phone integration. Then, on top of that, although it has volume ****, it also has a floating screen that makes it look like you glued a tablet to your dash: Even if that would fit, I hate it. Porsche got so close with the PCCM+. If they had just included wireless support, easier installation, and support for a backup camera, I might be willing to pay the premium to get it.

I've been looking at the Continental upgrade but think I have a MOST system in my car. Found a MOST adapter from CarnivalPlayer.com but just started looking up what the differences are.

I've just given up and I'm going with the BTR-3 for my CDR23. I don't want a double din and I don't want an aftermarket look. Now I need to find a phone mount that is hidden

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Same and I'd like to get rid of the lower console and do the GT3 delete at the same time.

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The small black strips below the climate control affix my phone solidly via MagBak case. I�m also able to easily utilize navigation via my phone as well this way.

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That's a very slick set up.

My "radio upgrade"

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yeah that's why I want to stay single DIN. The single din PCCM+ is awesome but I'm too poor to justify all that money. It's also crazy that it seems to be literally the only single DIN carplay head unit on the market

I'm hoping for some sort of sale for the holidays or black friday. Fingers crossed.

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Welp I just realized this unit existed! Does this work with MOST systems?

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technically it's not even for the 996 (official support is only for the 993). But there are several 996 installs out there, just not sure if any are MOST.

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It honestly does not surprise me that there are so few single-DIN head units that have Apple CarPlay/Android Auto. One of the major benefits of those systems is to display the contents of your phone on a screen you can see clearly and without counting your phone on the dash. If the screen on your stereo is smaller than the screen on your phone, that seems to defeat some of the purpose. (Not having to pull your phone out is a nice side-benefit, but that's partially defeated by the high battery drain of wireless CarPlay/Android Auto.) The single-DIN PCCM system only has a 3.5" diagonal display! It's tiny!

If I can buy an entire dash stack with OEM style HVAC integration and carplay/android auto for a 2009 Pontiac G8 on AliExpress for 250$, I would think there is a Chinese company out there selling 150$ single din generic stereos with a little screen and carplay

To be honest, plugging my iPhone into my Sony head unit and placing it on my Rennline phone mount gives a pretty good facsimile of CarPlay. I can play and dictate text messages, set map destinations, call up songs, and other things through voice commands after pressing and holding the head units volume button, and I can see maps, album art, WhatsApp messages, etc on the phone display. Plus my phone gets charged! Sorry no pic of phone.

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Kinda annoyed that I realize that I'm going to need to either gut the whole system or trust a cheap *** looking conversion box to run a regular Continental or PCCM single din to run on my car because of the MOST upgrade.

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I'm a little tempted to go this route. But every time my phone is on the holder and I'm in 3rd or 5th, I can't see it at all. (I'm currently just running a tape adapter and it's terrible.)

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Cool dash. What is that?

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If you are referring the dash material, I do not know what it is called but it was a part of the �Sport Design Package� option. If you are getting to the center console, it is a GT3 delete, with a carbon fiber plate fabricated to surround the climate control panel and void left by the audio unit delete.

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I'll be doing a similar install this winter. Same BT receiver, but also a remote level controller/volume **** and basic equalizer. Currently working on a 3D printed housing and **** for the RLC so it'll look like the wiper control **** and fit in the cigarette lighter location.

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Cool idea on the remote level control, it would be nice to have a bit easier access to volume aside from my phone buttons. I currently use the �equalizer� in my phone settings and it is sufficient for my use.

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I wanted the equalizer more for left/right and front/rear than the band adjustment. Most likely going to mount it in the CD changer location. Here's the one I picked up: Amazon Amazon

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Hey Quaz, any update on the performance of this Atoto unit?

(below)

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This deserves more likes, the only option for any 996 it shouldn't even be a discussion. One of the best things about having a Porsche, I'm still shocked Porsche made this. It's the #1 best upgrade by a long shot (2nd... exhaust) Looks fantastic, connection box in glove box + wireless adapter was wise! I have mine front and... left. Still looks good but glove box is the way to do it.

@SSDVC My �99 came to me with the Atoto A6 Pro and, as I�ve stripped the interior for a redo, it�s the only thing I�m keeping. on another forum, another poster said the A6 sucks compared to the newer A8 but it�s difficult to see where the A6 could be lacking. It boots immediately, the backup camera comes on immediately when needed. No complaints. it�s double Din and does not come with a **** or car play but both can be added, inexpensively w adapters.

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Yeah works great, haven�t had any problems with it.

Hey Quaz, I like the Atoto A6 head unit that we both have. My car had only four (out of six) speakers hooked up, directly to the Atoto. Dash speakers were original and not hooked up, no Bose ('99 C2) and factory amp bypassed. New GT3 door cards don't have speakers so I'm back to the dash. Plenty of room (rear seat delete) for sub. I'm interested in upgrading everything but keeping the Atoto head unit. What is your set up & how do you like it?

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ALWAYS discussion! Although the Porsche unit looks nice, just like most things Porsche it is ridiculously expensive, does NOT have features that aftermarket units do AND only "looks" better because it has a Porsche sticker on it! My Kenwood unit looks and sounds phenomenal! The screen can tilt through a large range so I can get a better view. It has a backup camera with guidelines like my Macan AND costs less WITH an Alpine amp and new speakers!!

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This is the single best solution I have seen. I like it so much, that I am working on making one similar. I am going to make a slight modification though, I will be using a wireless charging phone mount, and I bought one of these, so I could control the volume with a ****: Which I will use to remote turn-on and control the Amp. (it is a Bluetooth audio receiver with amp output) I will mount that to the left of the phone mount. Should do the trick. Thank you @PASSMORE for the inspiration.

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Thanks for the kind words, it�s performing well and I look forward to adding a small sub to the system to complete it. Your mods are the only minor details I�d like to resolve myself. Adjusting the volume via the phone is not optimal, though it�s reasonable. Where did you source the ****? I considered wireless charging as well and would like to do so. My Magbak wireless chargers have been unreliable and I wanted to consider the solution a bit more before going forward. The Magback case and attachment has been rock solid and works great in this application.

Here's my volume **** for the JL Bluetooth receiver.

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Cool, but why not just go with a PCCM? Factory solution, 100% integration and looks amazing I'm amazed everyone doesn't just get these, what other manufacturer comes out with a product like this for historical models??!

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I considered that route, but did not care for the small screen and styling of the DIN sized PCCM. The double DIN sized one was tempting but I prefer the center console delete and was not yet ready to take on relocating my HVAC. Also, for this car, I did not want a double DIN size screws to dominate the dash.

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I agree that it looks good (and I seriously considered going that route), but I don't see much utility in a 3.5" screen that provides the same function as my phone. I was previously running a double DIN, and even with that 7" screen I thought the viewing angle was too low. ​​​​

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\ It is called a: NVX Universal Bluetooth Audio Receiver Cost about $60 I will connect to a small amp, and since it has a remote turn-on for the amp, I can just turn it on and off, and the amp will follow. I will update once I get it running.

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Now that is clever! very stealth and symmetrical!

If you spend some time with the unit you might be surprised how refined it is. Apple carplay is great, the backlit integrates with the vehicle interior lighting (night-mode, etc.) and these are factory mods that will hold value. Anyways, I love mine just wanted to share the experience.

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Second this question - I too would prefer my HVAC controls in the second from bottom slot, retaining the storage cubby at 4th slot (bottom). Can someone post the source for the trim that surrounds both in that configuration? Thanks!

What install kit did you use? I would like to have �Manuell� above the bottom storage as you have done.

I'd really like to upgrade the "hifi" package with a new Apple Carplay head unit, speakers etc. with a BACKUP CAMERA OPTION. Saw the new $1300. OEM unit but it does not accept a camera. Given that caveat, which head unit do you guys like?

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Love the look, but it's the lack of backup camera that bugs me, in a Cab it's hard to see. Also Bluetooth would be a plus, otherwise its rad.

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I had been eyeing some Pioneer units, but Crutchfield never had them in stock. So I ended up getting a Sony XAV-AX5500 for $450 and a Boyo VTL17IRTJ backup camera for $60. So far, I like the Sony headunit but I'm not that impressed with the Boyo backup camera. It's not awful, but it was a pain to install and the image quality is pretty marginal. YPxb4xY.jpg thNPtI4.jpg Xzsonc1.jpeg I'm not sure if I'd've paid more that I would've gotten a better camera. That Sony is wired Android Auto/Apple CarPlay only. If you want wireless, you'll have to look at different models. (Crutchfield's search stuff makes finding one easy at least.) I wish it had a volume ****, but you can't get that in a Double DIN radio, so I settled for the physical buttons.

I just bought a kenwood ddx9706xr with backup and forward facing camera for $500 off eBay it has many positives and I just couldn’t justify the Porsche unit with its high price and lack of necessity I find it hilarious some guys only want the Porsche unit because it’s says Porsche but will use any aftermarket exhaust or other non Porsche parts without commenting

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I went with a Kenwood double din unit and a Pioneer back up camera. Very happy with it. My advice is to get a model that does not have a cd/dvd because it is only half as deep and to go for one that has wireless Apple CarPlay. You won�t regret spending more for the convenience. You haven�t mentioned the year of your 996 - if it is 2002 or newer you will have to get an adapter for the MOST system. Also budget wise, you can go whole hog and replace amp and speakers and add a subwoofer as I did or just replace speakers. I went with Focals in the dash and doors from Rod at Car Audio Innovations - highly recommended. A lot of gear is hard to get these days but good luck with it.

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Yeah, the microchip shortage seems to have hit the car audio industry especially hard.

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It's a 99 with hifi package. torn on how much to spend or even to go DIY. I looked at CAI and they have great options as well. Good call on no CD. Thanks!

Thanks. Love the CF shift **** too!

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My Macan has wired CarPlay and I was able to use an adapter to make it wireless ( https://cplay2air.com/?gclid=CjwKCAj...BoCgloQAvD_BwE ) and it works great. I don't know if the same thing exists for aftermarket radio -- but might be worth a search if you really want wireless. The factory Macan wired CarPlay disconnects if there is the tiniest interruption on the cable over a bump for even a nanosecond, then it is difficult to get to reconnect, so the wireless adapter was a godsend. Probably the aftermarket handles cable interruptions better than the factory system I'd imagine.

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What amp/sub/speakers are you using in conjunction with your Atoto A6?

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Never understood why wireless was so important I mean I always plug my phone in the car anyway to keep it charged!

I�ve been very happy with the Continental. Looks proper in the car and does everything I need. Good sound, Bluetooth so I can listen to my music, and a microphone built in the front of if for hands free calling. Oh, it�s also very cheap. https://www.bergvillfx.com/products/...l-trd7412ub-or

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Two reasons for me. The first is that CarPlay is designed poorly (not sure if it Apple's design or poor implementation by Porsche) such that if there is the briefest nanosecond of disconnection from the Lightning cable, CarPlay totally disconnects and then it takes a while before (sometimes minutes) it will reconnect when you plug the cable back in. When I had a brand new charging cable and an older iPhone, it would disconnect over bumps and then would not want to reconnect. This would happen virtually every time I use it, so CarPlay was useless to me. Now that I've replaced that phone with a new iPhone 13, that might no longer be an issue (can't tell because I'm wireless all the time now), but it was unusable and pretty infuriating when it would disconnect with the old iPhone. The second reason is that when I'm out running errands and getting in and out of the car, the last thing I want to do is pull the phone out of my pocket, plug it in for a 5 minute ride to the next stop, then disconnect and put it in my pocket. My old Q5 with Bluetooth only was actually much better than wired CarPlay because it would remember where I was in Pandora or Spotify and then continue playing when I got back in the car. Since music is very important to me, wired CarPlay was far worse then the old Q5 Bluetooth. Also, CarPlay seems rather random about what music it resumes when it reconnects -- sometimes it will resume content (e.g. Pandora) and sometimes it will just start playing iTunes songs when it reconnects instead of resuming Pandora. Now with the wireless and the iPhone 13 that can sometimes go 2 days before needing to be recharged, the phone never comes out of my pocket. I definitely needed the wireless because the disconnects on my old iPhone made it unusable, but never having to pull the phone out is a huge convenience. To me, it's definitely worth the $100 or so for the adapter.

Different experiece for me. iphone 12 mini. Always in my back pocket or sometimes breast pocket. always take my phone out so as not to sit on it. Wired carplay and never had a disconnect. Rented a 2022 Infiniti QX50 in Miami for a week. disconnected wireless carpaly quite a few times! BTW ride was nowhere near as good as my Macan S. I dont have carplay in the macan but since my phone rides up high so I can see WAZE I dont miss it.

My experience with wired Android Auto so far hasn't been as bad as peterp's with wired Apple CarPlay, but I can somewhat see the same potential issues. The USB port "clips" in my Galaxy S9+ (the thing that holds the charging cable into the phone) broke/wore out, so it's entirely too easy for a USB cable to come out of my phone. And if you disconnect Android Auto, it can sometimes misbehave when you try to reconnect it. Not always. But it's a problem I'd prefer not to have to deal with. If wireless Android Auto is more resilient to disconnects, it would be nice to have, even if I always had my phone plugged in for charging purposes while using Android Auto anyway. To that end, because of the battery drain issues, I would prefer to have my phone plugged in all the time anyway while using Android Auto. If it's just a quick trip, I can skip Android Auto and use Bluetooth audio.

Same here. I have the leather Kuda phone mount combined with Pro Clip phone holder with the integrated lighting cable, and I absolutely love it. the connection to my Pioneer double DIN is always stable, gives me access to my phone and most important for me, charging it. I have the same combo for my Macan S with an aftermarket Carply I�ve installed.

That phone mount brings up an interesting problem I hadn't considered before I got my new stereo: where exactly do you put your phone? My original plan was to just put it in the dash cubby, plugged in. But modern phones are too big for that (or you could say the 996 dash is too shallow). The phone (or, worse, the cable) ends up sticking out and you run into it shifting into any of the odd gears. And the Metra dash kit for my double DIN Sony stereo generally works fine but is incompatible with my Rennline magnetic phone holder. What I've resorted to is using one of my two Ultimate Cup Holders, down in the footwell against the side of the center console, as a spot to store my phone upside-down with the USB cable coming out of the top. It works pretty well, but that certainly isn't what I bought that cup holder for.

Don't know how you guys can hear a damn thing inside your 996 with or without Bluetooth. But i guess someday i will need to replace my oem radio so I appreciate the info.

SO many great upgrades here. I have had my OEM radio since buying the car in '07, and am thinking it may be time to upgrade...and dare I say, get some high quality speakers with some bass?

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Even with all of the road noise that I get in my 996 Carrera with 1-year-old Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires, I can hear the factory speakers fairly well using my new stereo. It certainly sounds better now than it did with the old tape deck. But, yeah, it's definitely not as clear as my Toyota Camry!

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A bit of soundproofing for the sanity.

Just wanted to say if your iPhone cable is coming unplugged over bumps it might be just lint and dirt in the charge port of the phone. Get a paper clip and clean the lint out and you will find a much sturdier connection. I have to do this every couple months just to charge my phone. It's interesting that people report such poor audio quality. I've got an '04 C4S with a CDR23 and presumably stock amp and speakers so I only listen to CDs and the audio quality is what I would consider seriously average. Maybe I am just not an audiophile but it's okay for me. I do think I'll end up with a PCCM+ one day though.

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I have that same leather phone mount in my turbo! I thought it was oem. I have been looking for a phone holder to attach to it the one that was on there is much too big for my phone and must be proprietary for a case.Wonder if they still make them?

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what phone do you have? In the macan I have the holder for the iPhone 12 Pro Max, which is pretty large. the holder works very well with a case. I need to order one for the 911 ( the one in the pic is for iPhone 8) here is a picture of the Macan.

I have iphone 12 mini. My holder in the Macan is up high on the dash. I dont have carplay in the Mcan so I need it up high for WAZE!

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here you go https://www.proclipusa.com/collectio...one-car-mounts they also have suction cup mounts https://www.proclipusa.com/collectio...p-phone-mounts

Thats the exact mount I have in the Macan!

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Makoto0406 - I have a 2000 996 with DSP, and I am trying to figure out what to do with the DSP. In your pic, it shows instructions for "With DSP", and then "continue to kit preparation"., but you didn't include that page. I went to the Metra site to try to get the instruction set, but I couldn't find it. Could you shoot those as well? Thanks!

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I have a 1999 with a DSP. FWIW I wrapped it in a T-shirt and velcro'd it to the carpet near the floor behind the HVAC, etc. It's only about 1" thick and there's room for it. Just make sure all the options on it are turned off. One of the buttons got pressed when I was doing this and it took me weeks to figure out why Siri and phone calls sounded like they were in a canyon.

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Quaz - now that you have had it for awhile, how do you like it?

@LarryAnderson FWIW, we straight up removed it on my car. There was some messing around with the amp that we had to do, and I'm not sure if that had anything to do with removing the DSP module, but once we fixed that, we haven't had any further issues with it. Now it lives in the same cardboard box that my old tape deck does, in case some future owner decides they really want that dumb thing back (along with the tape deck).

Stereo upgrades recently done and it sounds fantastic while adding the many benefits of Apple Play. If you�re a music lover I don�t know why you would spend any money upgrading the head unit but leave the factory amp and speakers in a 996. They were mediocre when new, and now they are 20 years old. This is only aftermarket modification that interests me. I got the following installed, and the sound scape I am able to create in the cabin is extraordinary. The Pioneer double DIN allows me to adjust the mid in so many ways, the Alpine 4 channel amp is compact, clean, and far more powerful than I�ll ever need, the JL Audio 4� speakers in the dash and the rear are the highest quality-lowest priced I found, the Kicker 5 1/4 in the door but with the tweeter mounted inside the dash with the JLs give the sound separation and purity I hoped for, and the self-powered Nakamichi subwoofer was small enough to mount behind the passenger seat without limiting the movement of the seat and also provide inputs on the side rather than the bottom of the unit. And the bass reproduction is deep, clean, and more than the cabin will ever need. The only thing I don�t love is not having a volume ****, but the Pioneer is lightning fast, has a high quality display, and as mentioned almost unlimited sound adjustments that let me optimize each component. The Sony Double DIN was too much of a compromise just to have a ****, and I�m used to tapping the screen now.

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Great info. How are you driving the front/rear/door speakers with only a 4-channel amp (would have thought you need 6-channel). Also would be great to see how you have the Nakamichi sub mounted. I've used similar active "under seat" style car subs in my basement system when I had space constraints, and it's amazing how much bass those small and very shallow subs can produce. I haven't seen anyone put them in a 996 before (I think I recall someone on RL trying to fit one under the seat on a 996, but it didn't fit).

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- The front four speakers are being driven by two channels and the rear speakers are driven by the other two. I would have preferred to run all four 4� speakers on one and the 5 1/4 mid range speakers and tweeters on the other two, but it would have cost a bunch more to run more wire. It sounds great as is. - I didn�t want a 5 channel amp because I knew I didn�t want to put a subwoofer box anywhere in the car. I�m a minimalist, I didn�t want to compromise the interior, and I also didn�t want something that people would see in the back. And tinting the windows on my 996 is not my style. - The self-powered sub would not fit under the seat. And yes, the sound is very impressive. Here are pics the sub fit just fine. I connected an accordion USB cable so it tucks in nicely without having a cord hanging down. And my iPhone 13 rests at an angle inside the shelf while plugged in, and does not get in the way of shifting gears. Also like that the pioneer lets me change the display colors to orange to match the interior.

OMG I�m totally going to do a sub that way! How did you attach it? EDIT what�s the model number on that sub? There are 2 that are slightly different in size but look similar. Width and length would be the limiting thing Ka and the bigger one is 11.5� (290 mm) x 8.25� (210 mm). All other similar units are wider and taller.

Nakamichi apparently makes a crazy number of low-profile/underseat subs -- 8 + a 15 "tire" sub. It's difficult to see why they need so many variations, but the more the merrier. It's too bad they don't put the dimensions in the high level description so it's easy to see which one fits whatever you're trying to use it for: https://nakamichicaraudio.com/collec...ive-subwoofers

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I didn�t do the installation so I�m afraid I can�t offer more details than to say that they put a piece of plywood between the Subwoofer and the car. Same as they did with my 4 channel Alpine amp.

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And of course some people end up putting one of these subs on the driver side and one on the passenger side. I don�t think our car needs it, but hey. On a side note, back in the 80�s and 90�s during my audiophile heyday Nakamichi, NAD, Denon, and ADS (speakers) were my home audio obsessions. So although I know nothing is what it once was, I wasn�t thinking Nakamichi for a subwoofer but I still trust Nakamichi. If they decided to make this product, I�m in.

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These are all the models: https://nakamichicaraudio.com/collec...ive-subwoofers There's only one with a 6x9 driver, so it must be the NBF618s-II. It's 290mm x 210 x 73mm. The shallowest model is 69mm tall (2.7") and the smallest is 260 x 195 x 72mm. Not sure if either of those smaller ones would make enough difference to actually fit under a 996 seat.

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Correct. The picture I posted was of the actual box.

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Yeah, I saw the picture, and I was reading all of the text on the bottom of the box and didn't see the model number. I don't know how I missed the NBF618S-II in huge bold font right above that text.

I'd love to know exactly how small one of those "underseat" subs would need to be to fit under the 996 seat. Many brands make underseat subs -- that seems like a perfect stealth bass solution for bass if it's possible to find a model that fits.

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I also wonder about raising the passenger seat with spacers and longer bolts. I�m sure no more than an inch would do it, and given that it�s usually our WAGs in the passenger seat they wouldn�t miss it. I know @Yogibara has spent a lot of time around the seat hardware�maybe he�d have some insight.

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You're right. One inch would have been enough to fit it underneath.

All your installs look good but I've been trying to scour the internet for an aftermarket install that doesn't require the extra bezel kit. Something like what owtosin offers for the 997. I've found some options on aliexpress, but they are specifically for 02-05 996.2 cars. Does anyone know if there's a deal-breaker difference between 996.1 vs 996.2 in terms of fitment?

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Wow!! I am doing this!! What a great solution.

How do you like the ATOTO? I thought it was ok in my work truck.

Brand ?

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What double din is this and possible link of where I can find it?

It's the Porsche PCCM+ unit. Available from any Porsche dealer (including online like Suncoast) and probably other sellers as well.

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How did you get the Porsche stencil or where did you find this part? Thx!!!

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This is slightly different, but I have this one: BERGVILL F/X (bergvillfx.com) Its on the continental I bought there. BERGVILL F/X (bergvillfx.com) I did the center console delete recently. I've been very impressed by the little radio.

Thanks. Am really looking not for a sticker, but the kind where you peel it off and only the white lettering remains

Im looking at picking up this upgrade to the interior speakers https://cai-store.com/collections/99...peaker-upgrade Mentions a 4-channel Amp being needed. Curious what you guys have used, and where you mounted it? Also, how is an aftermarket amp connected to the stock headunit. Im not looking to make major HU upgrades as I want to do the GT3 console delete and enjoy listening to my cassettes haha

Quotes source post: 18796522

I had one like that custom made back in 2015 as discussed in this post ( https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post12405959 ). This is the seller ( https://www.ebay.com/str/rb20fc ) from 2015, and the listing was "Porsche logo white color vinyl decal sticker for boxter cayman carrera". They don't have that Porsche listing now, but they might still be able to make it (see size needed in the thread above). Applying these types of "letters only" decals in this small size is pretty tricky, I think it took me 2 or 3 attempts, so it's safest to order a few labels rather than just one.

Hi. Not quite following here. What's a plotter? How did you do it, or would you be willing to make one for someone else ;-) ?

Search eBay for Porsche Caliper Stickers. They make different sizes that work.

Like someone asked�how is the atoto?

Quotes source post: 18804415

Good idea. I've asked one of the eBay sellers if they make it in 2.5 mm height in white (which I think is the same size as the one I previously got from an eBay seller in Thailand).

Quotes source post: 16894671

Hi, how did you get this to fit in the bezel? I have a Metra bezel but the ATOTO is not 2 DIN. Thanks.

I was planning to upgrade my head unit similar to yours and was wondering what you did about the DSP? Do you need a different harness for the DSP?

Quotes source post: 18805244

I have the ATOTO S8 and had to grind down the inside of the Metra bezel, another person with the same setup didn�t have to grind theirs, so I�m assuming the Metra piece is the issue. I broke the 1st one trying to make it fit. Found a post somewhere about grinding the bezel and used a sanding pad on my oscillating tool to grind the inside until it fit.

It is a tight fit for sure. I have done 3 of these now and only 1 of them I have had to sand to get to fit. The rest was just a tight squeeze. Good news is it doesn't move at all once it is mounted. Love this unit and it does everything great.

Anyone tried the Ebay Car optical decoder with the Atoto Head unit. Really looking for change my 996.2 radio but don't want to spend $2K Thanks

Quotes source post: 18894348

I tried 3 different MOST converters from Amazon, Cayenne, Mercedes-Benz, and one other w/o luck. I have the ATOTO S8 and paired it with a Soundstream 640.d amplifier (it�s small and mounted in the factory amp location w/ the factory bracket). It meant running 3 RCA cables through the firewall above the throttle pedal which wasn�t too difficult. I found the correct plug on Aliexpress to match the factory amp plug, so no cutting factory harness, and made a pigtail to go to the new amp.

I have this one installed on both my 04 996 c2 and 03 996tt. No issues with it. https://www.seicane.com/2003-2012-po...converter-sc69

Quotes source post: 18894436

Nice! Looks like you would have no fader(front to rear) as that�s only a 2 channel input from radio. 🫤

Quotes source post: 18894436

What head unit did you pair it with? Did you also install rear view camera

has anyone tried one of those units from aliexpress? https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256805...gloPc2usaMsite

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nice find, looks interesting�low price too.

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There is one with a Fiber Optic Box, really interested

Yes I have no idea how they would compare to a Sony or Pioneer he�s unit. I like the idea of the volume buttons, though. Some people have tried them similar ones on 997�s but I haven�t seen a review (yet)

Looks like the 997 forum has some pretty long threads on this topic

Quotes source post: 18895145

For that price I'll order one and report back. Stay tuned. Also, I've generally solved the '03/'04 MOST stereo upgrade. Here's my write up: https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-...l#post18881828

Quotes source posts: 18896395, 18881828

I�ve yet to see a 4-channel converter�*sigh*

Quotes source post: 18896427

Yep. It's unfortunate. I think there are some MOST enabled amps out there, but I'm not putting my toes into that water yet. I have other items that will take my toy car budget for the forseeable future. I'd love to find a knock off PCCM on Alliexpress. That knock off PCCM+ looks pretty decent.

Quotes source post: 18896465

It was easy enough to run 3 RCAs to the frunk, to bypass MOST, and I have a 5-channel amp that fits in the OE amp location on the bracket. I found the correct male plug to connect to the OE harness for output to speakers. I�m happy with my ATOTO S8, Soundstream 640.d amp, and replacement speakers for now.

The Aliexpress ones are looking like around $250 Found a video review of a high end aliexpress one on YouTube You Tube Link to the discussion on the 997 forum https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/1154248-cheap-android-head-unit-review-55.html

Well... I ordered one. It should get to my house on the 18th and I will get it installed in a day or so. I expect it is Just Fine.

Thank you! Wishing you the best of luck with the install. Which one did you order? Keep us posted On another note, found another YouTube video on a 987 one You Tube

I ordered the one linked above with the 1G 32G Carplay Wifi option. My car is a 2004 986 S with Bose, so I'll be using the Avin unit to convert the RCA to MOST. Looks like ~$210 shipped to my door. That's a fair discount on a PCCM+ Give me 2-3 weeks and I'll report back.

So here�s another data point for the �under-seat� sub discussion. I chose a Pioneer TS-WX130DA and following from some earlier posts on this thread I fitted it in the vertical space under the passenger side back seat. I used screw-in Velcro pads to mount the sub and it is very secure, although it is a shade too tall so the rear seat pad doesn�t quite fit down all the way. I think the Nakamichi is a bit smaller. Anyway the install is super clean because I used the phone plug and a harness from Renn Classic. Plenty of current to run the sub. I had the center console off to install a short shifter so I bundled all the wires (including the RCA�s from the head unit and the remote controller) and ran them under the console. The wires connect in the top corner of the sub next to the transmission tunnel so I managed to almost completely hide them. After extensive adjustment I am very pleased with the sound.

Quotes source post: 18896675

So far, this has been a pain in the *** and I haven't succeeded in actually ordering the unit. I have, however, spoken to the customer service team at length!

What does Customer service told you?

Basically this is a pre order and the product launches 7/20, so even if you order it now, you're waiting.

Quotes source post: 18904724

Did you receive the unit yet? I'm curious if it works well

Just checked with the sellers today. I'll report back soon.

Quotes source post: 18942932

Very interested in this.

Quotes source post: 18897884

This is very cool, I completely misread the post & didn't realize this was actually hidden under the seat cushion. Been eyeing the Pioneer TS-WX010A. Allegedly it's only 2-3/4" high so it might actually fit underneath a seat. I'm being very stupid about this, but if I can see the subwoofer I'm not going to be happy with it.

I saw this video and bought the adapter kit and speakers. Amazing 100x improvement. Why spend thousands when you can retrofit your 996 with this solution? It makes the door speakers come alive and your head unit already has plenty of power. Watch this video, The entire solution is less than $200 and very easy to install. A guy in England sells the kit and you can buy the Alpine SPG�10C2. It�s all in the video. You Tube

Quotes source post: 18948153

​​​​​​ Same. I've asked the seller for a shipping update. I can only assume it's on the way.

Quotes source post: 18951145

The hardest part of this DIY is removing the dash speaker screws. They must have installed those before affixing the windshield. I initially installed the kit upside down because the instructions show the L and R facing up. But they should be face down with shiny side up. Otherwise easy peasy. And they fit right into the dash. But those screws�..UGH. I didn�t do the rears because those speakers don�t fit into a Cab. Good luck. You�re gonna love the sound.

Quotes source post: 18951188

Something like this makes removing the screws much easier: Amazon Amazon

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Thanks! I just ordered one an hour ago. Because getting the screws back in is also a challenge.

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For $17 can't go wrong.

Also suggest putting masking tape on the windshield to prevent scratches. The windshield itself is pretty soft. Ask me how I know....

Alright. I have shipping confirmation. This may actually happen

Quotes source post: 18953557

Great News!!! Which model did you choose?

Quotes source post: 18953684

Model 8581 - 4G - 64GB w LTE. After like a month of messages with the seller, that's what they recommended. Total was like $251. They sent me a few videos of the unit and the function looks good. We went back and forth for a couple weeks confirming pinouts on the wiring harness and they claim to be sending me a free dashcam for the support on my end.

Looks like an amazing solution. Any idea if it is BOSE and MOST compatible? Or does that matter?

I suspect you'll need a MOST adapter - I have the Avin unit. Hopefully the unit is plug and play into the wiring harness on the car and I don't need to move pins around. Here's my general plan from a write up in the boxster forum: https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-...unit-swap.html ​​​​​​​

Quotes source post: 18955024

Would you be willing to do a write up on the wiring and install? I think I will get this also.

Yep. Stay tuned. I'll document it for sure.

I see that some other head units on Aliexpress offer add ons, like OBD reader and TPMS. That the same with this unit?

Not that I'm aware of.

I have asked the seller, and the answer is yes, TPMS can be added. Need to get this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...836%21im%21%21 Can nalso get an OBD reader as well.

I'd be curious about an ODB reader. My stereo continues to move in the shipping tracking. It is currently "Arrived at destination airport"

I ordered the 8GB RAM and 128 GB ROM LTE unit with the TPMS, microphone and OBDII. Supposed to be here in a couple weeks.

Awesome. Really curious about your experience. I have no idea if my unit can support that stuff or not. THAT SAID - it's out for delivery RIGHT NOW- so, in the interest of content for the 9x6 community I will commit to doing the install this weekend instead of fixing the A/C on my e91.

Looks great. Full featured. I'll install tomorrow and take a bunch of pics.

That 'jut out' of the bezel on the top will be problematic for my 99 ... may have to do some shaving, sanding and painting of the bezel if mine is the same.

I'm making progress....

Here we go: I had to shim the radio to hold it in the dash. That was the mot complicated part of the job. Moving the A/C wiring was a challenge just because it's a very tight space and you're in a weird position. I AM having an issue, however. The unit reboots as soon as I start moving and comes back when I stop. The only part of the vehicle really talking to the devices is the power. Could I have that wired incorrectly? I'm gonna try disconnecting the yellow CANBUS harness and see what I get.

Nvm. It's definitely a power/wiring issue. I must have had the radio's switched power wired to the speed control for audio pilot. That said, I can't find a switched power line at all in my harness. The radio will just stay on regardless of what the ignition is doing. I'm fairly certain I've identified the power and ground. Pics in a bit. Interestingly, the 101 projects book is not correct in its wiring diagram - at least for the CDR23 with Bose/MOST

Quotes source post: 18969935

Thanks for this mate.. please keep posting, it's very helpful. Do you have any pictures of which wires you needed to splice? Also interested in seeing a link for which exact unit you bought from.

Okay, first off - here's the pics of the unit:

To speed along installation - I made my own wiring harness. I have a 2004 S 986 with MOST/Bose so I needed the Avin unit to convert the RCA to MOST. Note: the giant dongle on above that came with the unit has a front L/R out - you can plug that straight into the MOST adapter - that's what I'm doing. My harness grabs power from the car and then I spliced in a plug to take power to the radio unit (which does not use my factory pin layout) and the MOST adapter. Here's the basic wiring diagram: I believe I've located the ground and 12v power on my car's radio harness: The BROWN and RED are definitely GROUND and 12v On the other side - one of those wires is the speed/volume control and using it for your yellow or switched power will cause the radio to shut off as you move the car. So... I know power and ground - I just don't know what is switched. Also, the way my car will keep the radio on until I open the door adds another confounding variable, because this head unit appears to just stay on. That's not ideal. I'll try to mark this up, but here's the pins I've got to work with on my harness: I'm about 90% considering putting a small switch inline with the red 12v line and just using it to force the radio off when I stop the car. I welcome any input/guidance the greater gang can provide.

Here's a pic of my homemade harness: The connector on the top is what plugs into the car harness in the post above. The connector on the bottom connects to the unit's harness. They are all sharing the 12v/ground/switched. I liked this set up because all the devices need the same things and having separate connectors means I can easily switch the pins.

MOST bus cars don't have switched power to the radio. The radio turn on/off is controlled by canbus. If you don't have switched power out of your canbus adapter you can tap switched power at the expansion plug in the console. That's an unused 4 pin plug.

Okay. I'd love a nudge in the right direction for how to proceed. I can follow instructions well enough, but am apparently stuck at this stage. Here's a markup for posterity/the next guy:

In your 8-pin plug the wires are: Red/black = battery hot brown = ground gray/black = dash lights white = switched power out to the antenna amplifier I don't know what the other colors are, one is a radio mute from the telephone prep and one is the speed signal as you found. To get the radio to turn on with the ignition you either need a canbus adapter that has a switched power out which it seems you don't have. Or you can find the 4-pin telephone prep connector that's tucked into the driver's side of the console and use the green/black wire which is switched power.

Quotes source post: 18969935

I found that out too. Try this: CDR-23 Boxster radio wiring

Thanks guys. I'm going back in. I'll report back I found the phone prep yesterday while I was moving the A/C. I'll take that route. Looks like this is my target. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

Well, boys - we did it. I routed the phone prep cable up into the radio cavity, piggy backed on the switched 12v and plugged it back up. I'm in business! I'll do a post with all the pics (still need to do one for the wheel hub bearing, too).

Quotes source post: 18971152

If you can, post about the sound quality and features of the unit? Mine will be here next week. It fits flush? The top part of the bezel just looks like it would jut out.

Yep. I'll take any pic you want. Sound quality is great out of the gate so far. It is a step up from the becker unit, for sure

Quotes source post: 18968730

It should match well. The HVAC bezel has the same ramp design.

@fazm So you got yours before I got mine. I guess shipping to Sweden is a bit slower. I actually sent my original PCM1 to China so they could make this... Here's mine, installed in my 986 Boxster.

Looks really great! I'm pleased. I have traffic and t swift on a screen in my car. I need to go back in and clean up some wiring and possibly add my line out converter - I have a minor ground loop whine for some reason.

Did you change the home screen? I haven't really found one I'm pleased with. I use Spotify and don't store any music on the head unit...

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How's the top end? The part that sticks out, does it look strange?

Quotes source post: 18975536

Not at all. I think it fits perfectly.

Quotes source post: 18975495

[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/720x405/fb_img_1647537339241_c1192b01a78b8c05fbb917373aa7eff0d5426119.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/720x405/fb_img_1647537343478_d8539e571b380682cbaa924d57c035ca3ee3da2a.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/720x405/fb_img_1647537346406_a85afe1481cb6c3b0fa836ac0e03d1eddaf20912.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/720x405/fb_img_1647537349290_2ffc3c11d6c8b73c7b1761e6d4aeac8d5c4ad801.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/720x405/fb_img_1647537352144_28563a024d22e6399cf44d0a35dea36584bd0aaa.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/720x405/fb_img_1647537365864_5b26b4a1a4e3aaf0d3b7e55edc5420f8bf9084ca.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/720x405/fb_img_1647537357873_16562ad39f2025b9c1782378edb59a49927162d8.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/720x405/fb_img_1647537360752_cfcecc2311cd28a89f52059c7f95e2b8bed1c76c.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/720x405/fb_img_1647537368728_d81b720004c6a9ffb71450841ff2f0e8bc5ca81d.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/720x405/fb_img_1647537371643_f0d3bcf2bd6a05b0fff1cb0ee4f5cc81ab3f5ab9.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/720x405/fb_img_1647537374400_cf974c410c6d35bc1edb1e40b8574803a5328cc8.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/564x1002/b1f19c6bd943b6558eff051fb6ed9856_7a2b47fc8bef81fbfb60a4efc82b598f4ef19c9e.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1440x900/1217149_8e136c67bc443c5822c8d00769eca2aebc386c49.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/564x1001/db8c7bf827f36ae0bce48444ff22c2ff_0f2b89a7bf2a705968c58eeda54a786f64d8668e.jpg

thanks for posting those. I'm interested in switching the boot screen as well

Here's some side angles:

Yeah ... that lip needs to go ... just doesn't sit right at all. Looks like I'll be doing some sanding and painting ... oh well, nothing I haven't had to do before. You can't get it to sit further into the dash to be more flush?

Quotes source post: 18973690

Wait, they made this because you asked them to?

Quotes source post: 18977120

Maybe. My mounting isn't perfect. I basically cut up some plastic and wedged in above/below the radio to make it sit tight in the frame. v0v

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Pretty much, yes.

Have you tried inserting a memory card? I pushed a micro SD card into the slot and it just disappeared. After removing the front of the unit (there's not much inside), I discovered what the problem was...

Moving in a slightly different direction.... For those that would like to keep the 1DIN format (if you want to run a GT3 console delete, for example), but still have a radio that doesn't look wildly out of place has modern bluetooth and digital music capabilities, the reborn Blaupunkt Frankfurt DAB is pretty cool. I run a Sony carplay 2DIN in the 996 Turbo, but I just installed this on recently acquired 930, very happy with it other than it is arguably overpriced at about $500. Uses standard DIN wiring connectors for a super easy install, short chassis. Perhaps a bit more '90's in styling than 2000's for a 996 Turbo, but far more 'correct' looking than most modern aftermarket 1DIN head units. Nice build quality, seems to have decent audio quality as well.

Looks great. I would have loved a single DIN option that included carplay. Alas...

Quotes source post: 18976994

I think you have to find a way to push it in more, so it will sit flush. I have seen other photos from others and it was more flush

Some photos from others that posted. It seem more flush and 996.1 without the cupholder seem to be even more flush

Does the Aliexpress one come with the stuff to relocate the climate controls, or you have to get that separately?

Hey guys- I am a complete novice when it comes to stereos and wiring. Looking to install the single din PCRN(?) HU along with the GT3 console delete in my 2003 C4S. Accordingly this thread ( https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-in-996-a.html ) the PCRN HU is compatible with the 996 but not a 996 with MOST (my C4S has Bose MOST system). Is it possible to use the solution provided by the Boxster forum, MOST adaptor, etc. or could I also rewire the system to get the PCRN HU to work? Really open to all options, and I have read a bunch of threads, but haven't been able to find or understand a solution. Thanks!

Quotes source post: 18977938

Looks great! This might be a single din solution for my 996. Does this unit have an integrated amp? In other words, could I bypass my Bose amp? Not likely, but I'm still looking for a simpler solution. Thanks.

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I got in touch with the seller, and apparently my unit does not come with an SD card slot. Why on earth they have a button marked SD and an opening, is beyond me. But according to the description on Aliexpress, it says "TF/Micro SD slot: 0".

lol that owns. I'll check mine and report back.

oh lol mine neither. Now I'm super curious about htf to change the boot screen. USB storage?

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Yes, there are two USB ports.

Does the unit comes with android auto wireless?

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So which one does? Is there a range topper.

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The version that this is based on, i.e. the one made for the 987/997 Porsches.

These start as a 4 core 1 GB RAM 32 GB ROM (Don't get that one!!) and go all the way up to an 8 core 8 GB RAM 256 GB ROM.

I purchased a 996.1 with the base stereo. The previous owner installed a Continental Head Unit in order to stream Bluetooth. I'm in shock how low quality the stereo is. A modern Toyota Corolla sounds better. Looking for better mids and highs. Would replacing the dash and rear speakers be worthwhile upgrade? There is an amplifier in the frunk that appears OEM and outdated.

Quotes source post: 18978582

Yes, it has a built-in 4-channel amp, plus four channels of high-impedance RCA outputs for either converting for use with the MOST bus or a separate amplifier. Integrating to the MOST is fairly easy with a third party Most Bus converter. I think bypassing the Bose/Most amplifier requires some additional work... 1. running the speaker wires to the radio instead of the frunk were the most amp lives (or just running new speker wires), and 2. I think replacing the actual drivers, as I believe the Bose speaker drivers are really designed specifically for the Bose amp, not really general purpose spekers.

Quotes source post: 18982756

Not that Bose gear is the greatest thing, but using the head unit amp and bypassing the Bose amp would like be buying Air Jordan�s and covering them with galoshes.

Quotes source post: 18982814

I don't disagree with you. I'm pretty happy with the Bose sound as is. I'm not sure of my wiring skills (I have some), and I've been hard pressed to find a shop that has a track record of integrating the MOST format. Oh well, I'll keep looking. In the meantime, my 996 makes good noises on its own. 8 )

Mine arrived today. Super fast shipping, wow. Will try to install it over the next few days.

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I installed one from Amazon , but I need a different model that has 4 channel pre out. https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...4&goto=newpost

Quotes source post: 18985087

If you can do without having a fader, you can just use RCA splitter cables to expand 2 to for channel output. My fader works, but I always keep it evenly balanced front and rear, so I personally wouldn't miss the fader. Your mileage may vary.

Quotes source post: 18982721

The stock dash and rear speakers are of very poor construction quality. If they have never been replaced, the paper cones are probably dried out and torn from old age. Take one out, and take a look. If it's stock, you definitely want to replace them.

Quotes source post: 18988270

Yep, that is my plan B. I am hoping the manufacturer can provide the correct harness.

Quotes source post: 18988282

If you have Bose, don't forget replacements need to be Low ohm (2-4) to work with the Bose amp very well.

My button doesn't light up when I turn on the light switch and the screen doesn't dim. Does anybody having the same issues. Which is the illumination wire on this unit and it connects to which wire from the car?

Quotes source post: 19006476

Tap into the cigarette lighter/power socket ring for illumination, not sure of the lead on the HU. Orange would be my guess�

Here you go: Pin 4 on the Android is for illumination. You need to connect it to the wire from pin 6 on the Porsche plug. The wire is orange.

Quotes source post: 19007483

I thought the plugs are plug and play. It's strange that they didn't put the illumination. Now I have to take out the radio to check.

Quotes source post: 19008334

I had to do a fair bit of my own wiring ot get it to work properly. While you are in there, do yourself a favor - pull it out and turn it on. Wait a couple minutes and see if it over heats. Mine certainly did! The indicated temp in the second photo is in Celsius. Check the part that I circled:

What did you end up doing with yours? Mine has mostly been fine, but I still plan to go back into the dash to work out some gremlins. Mine currently doesn't keep time, which makes me suspect I have the switched and constant power wires reversed.

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I returned it. They are making a new one for me with a cooling fan. But considering you all are telling me that your units are running cool, then hopefully I just got a bad unit. But I do urge anyone that buys these to check. 100 degrees Celsius is just way to o hot to put in a dashboard, I think. Here is the wiring for you: (A/B/C are factory plugs, G is Android HU) G1 --> A8 G2 --> A4 G3 --> A7 G4 --> A6 G5 --> NC G6 --> NC G7 --> NC G8 --> A5, C6 (if needed)

Thanks. I'll hopefully get back in the dash in October to sort out what I hope is a wire swap. I'd like to add illumination control as well. I've generally been happy with the unit otherwise. The screen could be a bit brighter and some work could be done to make it less reflective.

Quotes source post: 19009042

I fixed the illumination, the orange wire was not connected to the black connector. But it was connected to another white plug. I had to cut it and find another pin from another connector that I had. Now the button light turn on when I turn the light switch I played with the radio for 30min and it's also hot at the same location as yours. I don't think it's 100celsius as I can still touch it. But definitely hot. Not sure if I should complain to get a replacement like your mentioned with a fan

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Mine is also not keeping the time unless I'm connected to wifi or android auto. I checked the wiring and they are correct. The yellow is the constant and plugged to pin #4

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By hot, do you mean it is crazy hot, like you can't keep your fingers on it hot? Does it heat up right away?

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I can still keep my finger there. About 5min and it start to heat up. The weather is kind cool right now. But in hot summer, it might become very hot especially behind the dash. So I'm not sure what to do

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I would send it back. Need others to check their units to make sure this isn't 'normal'

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Did you bought from Sadocom store? They are telling me it's normal to be hot

Quotes source post: 19027153

If 100 degrees Celsius is normal, then that is awful. Need to get others who bought these to check. Nor would I wait guys, as these temps are hot enough to boil water!

I bought this unit a month ago and what...a...pain. Definitely not plug n play like aliexpress seller advertised. I had to cut up some pvc shims and use padding and double sided tape to get it to fit into a PCM harness. Has anyone here wired up a backup camera? Im really confused about the wiring harness. Are folks using the reverse light wire/drivers seat wire (blk/blue) to power the camera and send signal into the unit via the RCA plug power wire? Or are has anyone figured out if the harness itself has a working backup signal wire (its in the aliexpress diagram, but I dont see how the factory harness had a signal wire that would feed into this harness). Seller support hasnt been the greatest either. If I had to do it again I would wait for this to go through a few beta iterations until theres a more polished unit for the money (albeit cheap by porsche standards)

Yes, I was able to get the reverse camera to work witout issue. Pin 5 on the radio harness is the reverse. Are you able to go in back and see if yours is getting hot like mine is? I do recommend that you check.

Thank you! My Pin 5 is brown and runs into the canbus decoder (aliexpress CDR harness). No idea how its receiving signal from factory harness, but Ill start with this and work my way through it. Much appreciated!

Quotes source post: 19028851

\CHeck the temperature of the back of your head unit!

Anyone with one of these alixpress units install it into their car with MOST wiring? I've got everything plugged in, but unit does not power on (I hear the amplifier connect but nothing else). No sound, no power up. For connections, I have the following: MOST adapter wired into telephone harness (brown, grn/blk, red/blk for ground, switched 12v, unswitched 12v). When key is turned to accessory mode, MOST adapter's fiber optic light is on. 2 RCAs out of MOST adapter connect to units AUX IN Yellow mini-harness is connected into the units harness adapter Black main harness is connected into the units harness adapter CANBUS adapter has 2 white wires that plug into the back of the unit Checked all fuses, theyre fine. Either this unit is DOA or the units harness is wired up incorrectly. From the diagram above (my unit's harness has a different pin layout perhaps because of the MOST), my black harness does not have switched 12v wire. The only wires between black harness and unit's harness are 1) ground 2) unswitched 12v and 3) power antenna (pins 4, 5, 8 above). Anyone else run into this?

Ill add more pics once Ive got a handle on this wiring nightmare

Connect your avin unit to the stereo's AUX Out.

Ugh, I tried that....no change. I can hear the speakers pop when I connect or disconnect the black harness OR the Aux IN RCA cables (doesnt seem to be every time, but I do hear the speakers pop which tells me the factory wiring probably isnt damaged. My OEM headunit worked fine. Will post up a few more pics once icloud downloads them to my pc in case others have any insight or also have this problem.

Ok, a little more forum searching and I should clarify that I have an 03 C4S with Bose/MOST. Thank you @bobyYoo for the pin diagram above and @fazm for the headsup on AVIN's unit (probably the exact same as this aliexpress unit), I think I might have figured out the issue. Aliexpress instructions say to connect RCA to AUX IN, which I assumed was some bypass for switched 12v (maybe it still is, who knows), but AVIN has it the other way around where Audio Out sends signal to the MOST converter. Looking at the pin layout, my units #3 pin does not correspond to #7 on the adapter (switched 12v), it corresponds to pin #5 (powered antenna). So its possible the harness is just mis-wired, AND there is no switched 12v going to the unit. From what I found in previous posts, a line has to be run from switched 12v (either from fuse box or car phone plug) to the headunit. So, Ill run a line from the plug to the wire coming out of pin #3 from the unit (per above diagram). I'll report back on my findings. Either way, aliexpress fml .They should be paying me as their guinea pig. Adding pic of aliexpress MOST converter instructions as a warning

Update: I confirmed its a switched 12v problem. I applied switched 12v to Pin 5 above (power antenna) which sent power back into the canbus decoder and onto the unit, which powered the unit up. So Im stumped how this aliexpress harness with canbus decoder is supposed to draw switched 12v from the factory harness. I noticed this aliexpress harness has 2 pins for the yellow mini plug: #1 and #2 (LF R Out, Rt R Out). So not sure if thats correct or not. Edit: on my MOST factory headunit, yellow connector pin #1 and #2 are for CAN Comfort High and Low. So Aliexpress harness is correct on wiring those pins to CAN decoder. I still cant figure out why the CAN decoder isnt sending switched 12v signal to the headunit, UNLESS factory headunit (bose/MOST) relies on MOST for radio power on (switched 12v). Im going to attempt to bypass and feed switched 12v from the telephone plug.

I had to pull my switched power from the phone harness to get mine to work. Like you, I have a MOST system and use the Avin unit to do the conversion. I'll be going back in - maybe this weekend - to attempt to slay a ground loop whine. Pretty sure its the Avin unit providing it, but either way, it and the stereo are getting a fresh ground run.

Success! Running switched 12v from phone harness to pin #3 in the headunit (switched 12v/acc) worked! Thanks forum for all the info here, this was instrumental in figuring out what wires were where and what was missing here.

Good job and grats. Let us know if you have a ground loop whine.

Ive got to fix the illumination problem first, then check for ground whine lol

Quick update for anyone else running into this issue. None of my CANBUS functions work (illumination, reverse signal, power on). I have Bose/MOST setup on an 03 4S. Not sure if other years/setups are having similar issues with the CANBUS adapter, but mine doesnt seem to work for any function. Having to run wires for reverse and illumination now. I assume no other CANBUS data will make it to the headunit either. FWIW mine says TLS 20230731 HW:V6 SW:V4

Yep. That's my experience as well.

Adding a little more for anyone else doing this. If your CANBUS decoder does not work....you can wire up reverse trigger/power for your backup camera through the black/blue(stripe) wire IN THE FACTORY RADIO HARNESS. You dont need to pull it from the tail light or from under the seat. In my case (03 C4S) the reverse wire runs directly into the factory harness. All I had to was tap into that wire from the aliexpress harness (I just repurposed one of the harness pins). The issue I ran into later was for the illumination signal. I tapped into the correct wire (blue/gray(stripe) but it only turns the headunits illumination on for a moment. My temporary workaround is to set the headunit to use time of day mode for illumination (its in the factory settings, passcode is 3368). But Im not sure why its not happy just receiving the signal from another illumination source (fact: you can pull that source from any of the dash buttons around the headunit, they all have a blue/gray(stripe) wire). End of the day, this unit is far from perfect. It works best with the base setup, but if you have bose/most then be prepared for a lot of workaround.

The illumination signal is a pulse-width modulated voltage because it's dimming LED's. That's probably why it doesn't work.

Not easy, but upgraded my front speakers. While troubleshooting my convertible top hydraulics, I removed the rear speakers for access. Discovered rear speakers were shot. Moved front speakers to rear position, and then replaced drivers in the bad speakers with JL Audio C2-400X and Metra 72-9000 adapters from Crutchfield, using 3D printed brackets from thingiverse. This was not super easy and I suspect the ones you order from the UK are a much better option, but it worked. I also think the f/r speakers are slightly different though I have to check part numbers to confirm.

Any head unit install gurus on here? I need to ask a question about wiring. In the car, I only have speaker wires going to the C1 plug as seen below. The head unit I am installing (Aliexpress) only has 2 RCA plugs for line out sound for the front speakers only. So I cannot get sound to the door speakers or rear speakers. The Android power plug does have wiring for 4 speakers (as seen in the lower diagram) so I tried to rewire everything using those wires to go to the C1 plug. To do this, I had to have them all share the single ground wire on the C1 plug. But I think this is the reason for my overheating problems. Do I need a separate ground for each speaker? Are those wires in the Andoid ISO plug meant to be used directly to each speaker and not a shared ground to the amp?

Quotes source post: 19060031

Modern car stereos do NOT use a common ground for speakers... They typically use "BTL" (Bridge Tied Load) outputs, which basically means the + and - speaker outputs both have voltage signal, but one is inverted. This effectively doubles the power output and is how they use inexpensive IC amps and still get decent power ratings. Tying all the speaker grounds together is absolutely NOT OK in a head unit with BTL outputs. If you tie two pairs of speakers together (eg: front left & rear left, front right & rear right, for both the + and- wires), that can sometimes work with a single stereo output, but you half the ohm load of the speaker. The factory speakers are probably 4 ohm, and again, many amplifiers can't really handle a 2 ohm load. If you tie THREE sets of speakers together, you are at 1.3 ohm and that is definitely a no as well. But what year is your Turbo anyway? I think 2001 was the only year that used a head unit without a separate amplifier??

Quotes source posts: 19060031, 19060145

The yellow plug is always Line Out, you'll never drive speakers with that. You need a 4 channel amplifier. BTL originally stood for "Balanced TransformerLess" PS. Turbos have the same sound packages as Carerras. MOST started in '03 I believe in all 996 cars.

Quotes source post: 19060145

Mine is a 99 Carrera 4 with the HiFi system. The original head is long gone. Is the sharing of the ground wire what is causing the unit to overheat? It overheats even if the speakers are not being used. It does not do this with the supplied harness, though. So how should I do this then. Using the + and - speaker line outs from the Android ISO plug seems to be the only way to get all speakers to work. But the car only has a single ground for all speakers it seems?

Quotes source post: 19060145

My '01 had a separate amp.

This is the back of the Android head unit. As you can see, there is only a line out for the front left and front right. The only other line outs are on the ISO wiring harness plug labelled #1 in the first picture below. Below this photo I included the pinout for that plug, and it does have line outs for front and back - but the unit gets very hot when I wired those up to the C1 plug using the C1's common ground (see bottom diagram) even when the speakers weren't being used. With help from forum members here and on other boards, I have come to understand that the line out pins 9 - 16 on the ISO wiring harness plug are high level and overheats the head unit even when speakers aren't in use. The RCAs are low level and connect directly to the amp in the bonnet. If I use the line out pins 9 - 16 on the ISO wiring harness plug, they have to bypass teh factory amp and go directly to the speakers. Am I understanding this correctly?

"Line out" usually refers to a high-impedance, low level output that is commonly used as an input to a separate amplifier. Usually terminated in a coaxial "RCA" connector. They can not drive an un-amplified speaker directly. "Speaker out" usually refers to a low-impedance, high level output that is commonly used to connect directly to a speaker, though many amplifiers can also accept these high level inputs, or can be run into an amplifier with an adapter. Speaker outputs must be connected to a correct load, usually 2-8 ohms. Combining six speakers into four outputs isn't always possible, depends on the specifics. Line outputs ALSO must be connected appropriately. None of the grounds should be tied together. ---- Please don't take this personally, but it seems like you aren't familiar enough with car audio wiring to get things connected properly. Trial and error probably isn't the best method, and you might very well end up letting the "magic smoke" appear in your wiring, or frying the amp circuits, or ??? Do you have a local car buddy that could come help you? I hate to send you to a shop, but that might be less painful than frying your head unit or worse.

Quotes source post: 19061257

No offense taken. I am learning here. Keep it coming! No I have no one local that can help. Just getting help here and other forums. I like doing this stuff and learning, so I have no problem doing it and redoing it if wrong - repeatedly if needed. And I did ask a local shop, and they didn't want to work on it due to me bringing in a head unit and wiring that they had nothing to do with. I got this answer from a car audio forum. I will try doing this:

Alright, I'm looking at doing an upgrade when I finally fix my hvac flaps and am pretty sure I want to purchase the 8gb/256gb qualcomm (snapdragon) version for $365 (last option on this link ) Heres my question which the seller was completely unable to answer. I have a 2002 C2 Coupe with the bose amp/6 disk in the frunk and originally a CR220 headunit. However I'm led to believe this is NOT a fiber based MOST system even though the seller has a blanket statement "if you have bose you must purchase fiber box". Does anyone know what I will or wont need to make the android unit work with the factory speakers and Amp. Lets skip the usual "factory amp/speakers sucks" or " bose blowz" responses as this upgrade is 99% for bluetooth and android auto rather than sound quality. I would like to keep the sub box since its technically functional at the moment. Looking for wiring harnesses and or diagrams needed. Anyone actually install this unit?

Quotes source post: 19062186

Fazm I think can answer that. I only have the 6 speaker HiFi M490 system.

Quotes source post: 19061385

Just installed a android ATOTO head unit in my 2002_996.2. Definitely not a most system in 02. Got a Metra install kit from amazon and a wiring kit from some other Amazon china company. Plugged in the connectors including the rca for subs, all rca outs to all available inputs and all speaker wires to corresponding speaker connections(paying particular attention to the +/- on the wires/plugs. There were no rear speaker wires coming from the car adapter plug, but the head had all 8 speaker wires. So not using the rear outputs from the head unit. Started it up and even without the rears, its sound great. OEM Amp is working good, and the door speakers seem to be the woofers. Was going to change out the speakers but it sounds so good not going to touch them. Will try to get the rear/fader to work, might have to find the rear wires at the amp and patch in the head rear speaker wires..? But for now, just plug and play,,, surprising how clear and clean it sounds, not clipping, no distortion at all, I'm truly amazed as the 996.1 I did was terrible till I changed out the speakers. Amazed how powerful the ATOTO android A6pf, with 996.2 2002 oem amp is. Can't turn up the volume more than 1/3 or its ear shattering. and the door speakers boom bass amazingly well for there size. Atoto seems fast, responds instantly, wireless connects to my s22android auto immediately and my girls iphone car play fast. And was half the money my other slooow head unit was in the 996.1 Now take all this with a grain of salt as I'm not a audiohead, or media system install expert at all. jmo

Quotes source post: 19061385

I got a Soundstage 4 channel LOC. It solved all my problems. Runs cool, and I have all 4 speakers working with fade. Thanks to the members over at DIYmobileaudio forums for the help. Anyone that gets the Aliexpress Android and does not have Bose or MOST, I can help with wiring.

Quotes source post: 19062186

I'd want to see the back of the head unit, but based on this link's pictures: https://www.germanaudiotech.com/prod...arrera-boxster You should be able to get away without the Avin/MOST unit. Good news is if you need it, it's trivial to add.

This is a thread dated from 2014�is it active cause I�d like to know how that amp was recessed in that shelf?

wat

Quotes source post: 19064023

How did you wire it up..? 2 of these came with my Atoto... think these will get my back speakers working..? Can't read the Chinese so not sure how to adjust them..?

Anyone help with what the RAM and ROM options do on these units? I do not plan on putting music or videos on the unit just play from my phone

So here are some photos of the Aliexpress unit installed and now running smoothly. Sound (to me) is good after having played with the settings. I have an OBDII reader app downloaded and a TPMS app as well, so this time hopefully I will told when my tires are low (I messed up a couple tires, I'm embarrassed to say ...). This cost me a fraction of the PCCM + and has way more functionality. And it is android auto wireless, plus I retain my back up camera, with the option of adding a front camera, or a 360 degree camera system. And the design fits in quite nicely with the rest of the car. Photos are from my tablet, which sucks ... I'll take better photos later. And before anyone mentions it, yes, my buttons and HVAC light up in blue instead of orange.

OK cool what else besides sensors on tires do you nee for the TPMS? Also how bog of a job to make the lights blue?

Quotes source post: 19070939

Well, the lights in the cluster was just a matter of changing bulbs, but the switches and HVAC had to have the LEDs soldered in. The TPMS comes as a kit with everything you need.

Can you link the TPMS kit?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...5e9f1802SccAeY

What a PITA....link didn't work for me...extracted out of the redirects...here it is for everyone. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802593390901.html?

great thread looking to update mine with apple car and emailed someone from North Cali...Already wants to send me a large invoice lol....Might research some more

Quotes source post: 19074956

I think this is a better deal than the PCCM + with more functionality and similar looks at a much lower price.

Quotes source post: 19070657

Great install mate! Just wondering how you went with the stock time settings? I notice that everytime i start up the car, the time is wrong until i get onto android auto and then it updates. Not really a huge concern, but i'm just wondering if i can somehow make the time setting sync with the car... or do i have my accessory and ignition power settings wrong? Joe

Quotes source post: 19077327

You've got your constant +power, and switched+, reversed. On both 996.1 & 996.2 I've done so far, both had the yellow and red wires reversed on the aftermarket harness. This causes the head unit to reset every time the ignition is switched off. So just swap the wires. if you want, check voltage on the constant + with ignition off, you'll see it has no power when it should have 12v. The switched wire will have voltage with the ignition off. Its opposite of what it should be. Swap them and your time and all other settings will stay put when ign is turned off.

The only thing I'm worried about at this point is the scalloped top edge of the unit on a .2 car because while the .1 cars do have the top edge as it goes into the center vents the .2's don't have that edge since it goes into the cup holders. Anyone installed this on a .2 car with the cupholder to verify it doesn't look silly?

Quotes source post: 19083492

I was worried about that, but it looks fine.

I thought yours was a .1. Could you possibly take a few more pics of the section in better light?

Can you buy a dab+ receiver for it?

Quotes source post: 19083744

You'll have to wait for that, but you can scroll through the thread to see photos others took or theirs installed. I think Fazm has a .2.

Quotes source post: 19084112

The head unit is essentially an Android tablet, so maybe ??

Question for you stereo guys as I am doing my research, 2004 Targa. Just looking for a double din stereo keeping the Bose system and amp...I am looking at Kenwood Excelon DMX709S or Alpine iLX-W670 for Apple car play. Is there anything out there that is true plug in play with soldering a few wires? It seems the double din install kit require little trimming if any. But its the wiring with back up camera that require the most work

Quotes source post: 19087715

Here's what you'll need for a generally plug and play install with Bose/MOST - https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post18955257

Quotes source post: 19077902

Thanks mate.. I tried this last night, and it still didn't work. the only way i can get the time to remain when the car is off, is if I enable "sleep " mode? But that obviously drains battery. Are you able to tell me your clock settings? I definitely turned off the "pull time from internet" (or whatever it's called) so I just set the time manually...

I was able to install the system over the weekend. I used the Bluetooth receiver that I referenced before (it is built into a **** that I installed in the cigarette lighter hole) search NVX receiver on Amazon if you want to find it. it connects correctly to the stock amp, and works great. These photos aren't the greatest, but I made a plate out of Lexan and covered it with Vinyl, and mounted a magnetic phone charger, and a USB power plug. Works great!

@jim010 , do you by chance have any pics of your wiring harness for the ali unit? Im trying to install a unit in my 986 HiFi M490. Unit came with 2 harnesses (one for PCM and one for CDR presumably). I think the non-CANBUS harness is correct. I figured out how to connect the front speakers, but I dont see how to connect the rears. Im also not sure if I need a LOC here. Was yours HiFi? Can you share more on your setup? Nevermind! Followed your earlier LOC advise and BOOM I have sound coming from front, door, and rear speakers. I just happened to have a LOC leftover from a Continental radio install. Worked like a charm. Thank you Jim!

Quotes source post: 19063144

hello, I am trying to install an Aliexpress unit from Ekiy with the same metra kit but the head unit is just a little too big. Did you have to cut away any of the metra kit for the Atoto to fit?

Quotes source post: 19098283

Is this on a 996.2..? After living with my 02/metra kit Atoto install on my 2002 996.2 for a month or so now, I've determined that metra kit is the wrong kit for an 02> with the upper cup holders. Yes, did have to sand off material to get the head unit in the metra bracket. But thats not the big problem. Even once you sand the bracket too perfectly fit the head unit, the cup holder makes the fit very tight and whole unit sticks out on top and on the sides a little. The top bracket lip doesn't integrate right with the cup holder. I can live with it but its not right. IMO, this metra kit is not for 996.2>, its for 996.1 <2001. As far as I can see there is no 2002> and up metra bracket that fits the latter cars. Or maybe I just can't find 1.? My 2001 996.1 I've used the metra kit on fits perfect, looks great, is flush everywhere, and goes right in nice. Big difference from the 996.1 to the 996.2 as far as the metra kit goes. Might change out my 996.2 head unit for this one everyone has been using lately. The head unit that doesn't need the metra kit, its made for the 2002> cars and looks to fit right in and integrate perfectly. they offer so many different configurations of this unit, not sure what one is best. not sure I'd need the big memory and cpu..? The Atoto with same specs as the unit I linked above, is fast and responsive for me. Whatever I do, will never go back to regular head units. As the android tablet type head units are far superior from my limited non audio head anecdotal experience. the ability to install apps like Torque pro, tpms, Browsers, 2second boot up, lightning fast response time, instant wireless AA & CP, etc, make these android units transform older cars into the modern times... jmo https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...yAdapt=glo2usa

Quotes source post: 19098454

Allcool, thanks for the feedback and I understand the difference now. I have an 02 turbo with the 2 cupholders and the Metra kit. As you mentioned the Metra not fitting perfect but it was acceptable and worked with the Boss double DIN unit I have in there now. The EKIY T7 i just got seems really nice and sounds great too. Unfortunately it seems about 3-5 mm. larger than the Metra cradle and opening and, like you, I can't find anything other than the Metra for 996.2. I may have to go with the Atoto like you show here. It's just much more expensive than the Ekiy and I don't think it has all the features. Thanks again for your feedback and additional information. If I ever get this finished, I'll have a unit with 360 view camera, TPMS, ECU, 5 channel aftermarket amp and replaced speakers.

I think the Scosche had less of a bow/curve to it than the Metra kit. I�d ordered one last year, but after getting the Metra sanded down to fit my ATOTO S8 I don�t think I ever opened it to compare. https://www.scosche.com/car-audio/in...ation-kit-7654 It is listed as �99-�04 compatible so maybe there�s some curve to it�can�t really tell from pics.

Quotes source post: 19098657

Probably I didn't make myself clear, my point was not to go with a standard head android unit (like Atoto) that needs a bracket/cradle. Go with the new units that don't need any cradle and have its own face plate mount built right in made for the 2002+ cars dash to fit perfect and look kind of like the PCCM Porsche radio unit, like in my link below... They are made for the 2002> 996.2. Cost on sale now, $185. So, only have found these on AliExpress but maybe they are for sale elsewhere, idk.... Many right on this thread have gotten these successfully from AliExpress. Same units seem to have many rebranded names, not sure any of that matters as they all seem to work and fit great. I will probably be taking out the sloow Jensen head unit now in the 2001 that cost twice as much. And then remove my Atoto from my 2002 and install it in my 2001 since the metra kit fits perfect in the 2001. Then Installing /getting the AliExpess unit that fits perfect in a 2002>. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...yAdapt=glo2usa

Quotes source post: 19098769

Just checked it out, think you're right on the better fitting Scosche kit. But for $185 instead of the $50 for the Scosche kit, can get a AliExpress android head that needs no kit/faceplate as its built perfect to fit only the 996.2 and looks a little like a Porsche Pccm.

Quotes source post: 19097866

Lol! Glad my posts helped. Took alot of begging for answers on the car audio forums, and lots of different answers from everyone. Finally got one guy that knew what he was talking about and was able to pick his brain for solutions. Now I can enjoy the Aliexpress Android, and it works pretty well! Much better than the PCCM+ and looks very similar to it. For those that are concerned it doesn't lok right in a 99 - 01 car, don't worry. Mine is a 1999, and it looks good. Here is who I bought mine from: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...738%21im%21%21 They even installed a cooling fan at my request.

Quotes source post: 19098454

there are lots of variants on this page. Is there a preferred model?

Quotes source post: 19098910

I put this into my 1999 car, it it looks good. I was worried the curve wouldn't look right, but it blends in just fine. You can see the previous photos I posted to see for yourself.

Quotes source post: 19099348

Depends. Are you going to have lots of apps running? Store lots of music and pictures? The more expensive ones may be overkill depending on how you will use it.

Jim010, your post about LOC also helped me get my back speakers working, thanks. Used the 2 LOC that came with the Atoto I just overlooked at first.

Quotes source post: 19099348

Ya, its confusing. Not sure,,, probably go with what Jim said about lots of installed apps need more resources... For me, I'm going with the base unit for $185 on a slow boat from China...

Quotes source post: 19099398

I got mine in about a week. I was very surprised at how fast shipping was from my vendor. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...257b1802ZikabR

Quotes source post: 19099356

No, I just want CarPlay and a good responsive display.

Quotes source post: 19099574

ordered 1 last nite from your vendor. Got the 1 listed as__ "Color: 2G 32G Super Deal"

Quotes source post: 19100388

Let me know how it goes. I can help you with wiring if it is just a HiFi, but not MOST.

Yeah, the Sodacom looks to fit very well without need for anything else to mount it. The Ekiy I got was about half the price of the Sodacom with same features $200 vs $400 but the Ekiy doesn’t fit the Scosche or Metra, so it looks like I’ll get the Sodacom with 360 camera and tpms. Thanks for the feedback.

I just finished it in my 996.2 Targa well fitting is not super great as there are 2mm on each side space where you need to find creative ways keeping the unit stable in the frame. als Cables and Wiring of the MOST was not super hard but required some pictues i attach here that helped.

Quotes source post: 19101672

Thomas, your unit looks to be very similar to the unit I have from Ekiy and you noted it didn’t fit great. Did you use the Scosche, Metra or something else to mount the unit? Thanks

Quotes source post: 19101815

Hey i used the original frame from Porsche. The unit is way shorter than the original one so that you do have a lot of space behind it to store alle wiring. Non the less to not make it slipping out of the frame i simply added left an eight two metal blades 2mm thick that do hold it in the frame. These metal blades are mounted to the unit instead of the original thin ones that keep usually the unit in the frame. 90 min ago i dismounted everything. Damn as it would habe been easy to take a picture but sadly i just read the thread a minute ago :-(

Who in here has upgraded their alternator? I�m thinking of going to a 240 amp unit. Any disadvantages here? If you did, what unit did you go with?

Quotes source post: 19105246

Why do you want/need to increase amp capacity...? plenty amps on hand for any stereo

Quotes source post: 19105374

My stereo is far from stock. I can watch my amperage drop below 11v if I have the volume even moderately high. But if I�m doing preventative maintenance (which this is at this current time) I may as well upgrade if I�m replacing it.

Wow, must be some stereo... Curious, what size fuse for your amp..?

Quotes source post: 19105595

Honestly can�t remember

Thomas, Thanks for the feedback. I guess yours is bigger than mine. Without the Metra kit I have now, the Ekiy is much smaller than the factory opening. The Metra works very well for the Boss double din I have in there now and it looks very good. It's just a little too small for the EKIY. I want ahead and ordered the Sadocom Porsche specific unit that doesn�t need any mounting or faceplate adapter.

Has anyone used this or a similar pioneer model? How does the screen brightness / glare look in the car? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130DMW....html?tp=72357

For those that want to tinker a little more with the Aliexpress Android head unit, the factory password is '3368'

Quotes source post: 19118622

Sweet. Mine arrives in a week. Doing the vent flaps as well as the android. I went with the snapdragon 8gb ram.

Don't forget to get the TPMS! I like having it.

Did you do the Internal or External TPMS kit? Don't mind having it but not enthusiastic about taking it to my tire shop and then having to figure out what the sensors are in 5 years when one goes bad.

Quotes source post: 19121196

I got both. Mounted external for now.

Mine went in the car today with a local mobile fitter. Early signs aren't great, the fitment is poor. There are gaps around all 4 sides and where the installer mounted it, its held in by 2 bolts so it pivots up and down as well as slightly side to side. I'm going to pull it out later and have a proper look to see how I can fix that. I think it needs to go back further into the console which will help. The installer said there was no fibre optic system in mine even with it being a Gen2 C4S. I thought all Gen2 Bose were the MOST systems? Something definitely isn't quite right as the volume gains massively for small steps up in the volume dial. There's also no apparent connection to the Bose subwoofer. I wonder if its wired incorrectly (he probably just went off of where the old Alpine unit was) as that had the same problem. I've seen on here that if you have the wrong output from the HU connected to the input to the amp you actually have amplified signals going to the amp rather than pre-amp signals. Any thoughts on that? And finally, while my car has a reverse camera, it was an Alpine specific camera so it couldn't be reused . I've ordered one from eBay to install, at least I can use the existing wire to pull the new one through.

Quotes source post: 19135235

MOST started with �03 models, so you�re lucky in that regard.

Thanks to the folks on here blazing the way forward. I bought the seidocom unit on Ali express and got the most adapter and cameras at same time. Install was pretty straight forward per all the instructions here. I installed it in my 04’ 996 turbo and concur with most here. Verbal unit looks and works great. Super visible on bright sunlight and very fast and responsive. I mainly use CarPlay but have expanded things a bit and adding additional apps and such for the android side. The wiring tips and tapping off the phone setup in the center console was key to getting it working. Like others I still can’t make the canbus portion work however I am working with the seller to see if we can fix that.

Note the shims on each side to make it fit properly. I’m tinkering with some options to close the gaps and make it look cleaner.

I want to get the Blaupunkt Frankfurt. Seems like a good fit for classic look with some modern features

Quotes source post: 19137098

I've never been a fan of Blaupunkt sound quality, but they make the best looking radios by far in my opinion. Most of their models look amazing, just a matter of picking what fits best based upon vintage. Most of the other major audio brands have displays/designs that looks like 4th of July fireworks -- not an ounce of subtlety or refined design in any of them.

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i would use a separate amp and other items so sound quality shouldn't be an issue..

Quotes source post: 19137098

I put a Blaupunkt Frankfurt RCM (modern version with Bluetooth, etc) in my 930 several months ago and I've been quite happy with it. The quality level of it definitely seems several notches above other 'modern' Blaupunkt head units. The price is also several notches above as well, but IMHO a perfect middle ground between something like the VDO/Continental head unit and the Porsche Classic PCCM if you want a 1Din head unit with modern features...

Quotes source post: 19064023

Hello I have exactly the same issue. Do you have by any chance, photos of the loc installation? Thanks a lot.

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You will not use the AV cables that come with the kit. You will wire the the speaker wires from the Android power plug straight to the LOC (from pins 9 - 16). You 'll have to get female AV plugs and splice into those so you can plug into the LOC. Use a non-powered LOC, like I did. I bought the Soundstage 4 channel LOC. From the output side of the LOC you will wire the the speakers to the C1 plug. Everything else will be wired as described earlier in the thread.

Thanks for your detailled answer. The only 4 channels loc i found have a 12V, a ground and a remote input, do i have to link them (the soundstage seems the same)? Thanks a lot.

Quotes source post: 19154814

If you use a powered LOC, like the one you found, you may come across issues that I did, such as speaker pop, noise feedback and other problems. By using a non-powered LOC, all that went away, so I still recommend using the non-powered LOC. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575RFH...e-RF-HLC4.html

You rocks tanks for the advice !

Got the PCCM+ installed on my 996 C4S... Getting the right brackets and trim pieces made install a piece of cake. Youtube videos and these instructions were a life saver- https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...79274-0001.pdf I ran the microphone from the OEM location in the gauge cluster. Sound is so much better.

I installed (with help from a very gifted friend) a Sony AX-4000 from Crutchfield. I got the full installation kit and the pre-harness wiring. I love the screen, feel, look, and buttons. It�s lighting quick with the Apple CarPlay wireless. USB tethering doesn�t seem to work, which is a bummer. I wanted to customize background. I ran the microphone through the trim up by the visor, and the usb cable down by the footwell. I highly recommend this unit.

Has anyone with the seidocomm unit tried a SIM card ? I’ve tested multiple and can’t get the unit to recognize a card being present. Also does anyone have the canbus portion working ? Thx - scrh1

Quotes source post: 19156230

Really interested in the built in wireless apple carplay - any lag? connection issues? how's the sound? Been trying after market wireless dongles, but haven't been overly impressed (issues w lag, connection, etc). Curious how the built in ones are. Wish the Sony units had a volume ****, but at least they have a physical rocker switch.

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Lag is nonexistent- very fast. Sound is good but I did not upgrade the speakers. Love the screen and feel as well

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@jim010 Do your HU buttons illuminate with the rest of the dash? I couldnt get that part to work (tried wiring to another switch's illumination wire but no dice).

Quotes source post: 19209958

You need to check the hu illumination wire if it's at the correct slot of the connector. Mine was not and I relocated to the correct slot and it works

Quotes source post: 19210030

Exactly . Check my diagrams i posted in this thread.

Anybody figure out how to stop the rear seat back from rattling when the bass hits? Not even big bass hits, just bass in general causes it. If my rear seats are latched, it rattles, if they�re laying flat, no rattle.

Just went through the install today with my m680 dsp� boy that was fun. Had to ground the green/white 17 wire from the amp connector to be able to run the unit without the m680 panel. one thing I still can�t figure out is how to get the backlight for the buttons to light up. They flash on when I first put the ignition on but that�s the end. Can anyone explain how to make this work? overall thrilled with the responsiveness and features of the unit. I have a little feedback from the speakers� it�s like a tick tick tick and then when I speed up it�s static. Has anyone had to install a filter?

Got the lte cellular working. Needed a new SIM card as mine must have been too old. Recognized immediately and shows up with options on the radio now. I used my google fi SIM card and no issues.

I just tried installing the Ali Sadocom unit. I have the HiFi system. I left the HiFi plugged in as I have read about and still have no sound. I only have a yellow and black connector from my CDR220. I cannot figure out how to get to carplay. I have installed several stereos in past cars but this one has me stumped.

Quotes source post: 19241450

have you gone over my posts in this thread?

Quotes source post: 19243792

Yes I have. I may need to tinker some more.

Heads up that after updating the software on the radio via AppStore, I saw a new canbus software amongst others. Once applied I now get speed on the head unit which is a change from before. Anyone else still tinkering with the functionality?

That's good to know. I'm still tinkering with mine. I'm a little annoyed at all the wiring and stuff coming out of the back - it's a lot to pack into my dash! I'd love to know how people are mounting them into the bracket on 9x6.2 cars. I shimmed mine with plastic, but am curious about other folks' fitment. I'm ruminating on going back to a single DIN BT enabled head unit. I could even see myself doing a refurb'd CDR23 for the same of simplicity.

Is there a way to disable the quick launch pointer? solved, found the menu

I got back in the dash and wired the aliexpress stereo back up. I tried a new grounding method in an effort the quell the alternator whine - no success Any chance someone has the wiring instructions for the aliexpress radio? I know I have the 12v constant and 12v switched wired correctly, but the thing doesn't keep settings between drives. I suspect the secret lies in getting the limite CAN wiring I have connected correctly.

Shoot me a pm and happy to help. I also posted a review and install in the turbo forum and many of the asks are answered between here and there. You like need to fix how the power is wired up. Use the very long power wire and go direct to fuse box or the phone connector. Power will not come through that harness unless your re pin it otherwise. Thx - scrh1

Also for the ground I would choose another location IR if no dice then get a ground loop isolator / wire it in and it will solve the issue for you for about 5-15$ on Amazon.

Quotes source post: 19265119

Can you just put the link here for that thread? This has become the master thread on install....and I say that as someone who within the next few days will do his own sato android install.

Quotes source post: 19097866

Did you wire the 4 Channel LOC to the yellow C1 plug? If so, how did you do it? With crimp connectors? Is the yellow plug out of the loop at that point? Also, with the 4 Channel LOC, there are 4 points for the RCA plugs but only 2 coming from the Ali harness. How does that apply?

Quotes source post: 19265812

See here for the other discussion on the 996 turbo forum. Some differences but mainly similarities in the years. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...install-8.html

Hi all I substituted the Front Dash speakers + the back side ones I followed a good advice from a Porsche fellow (same 996 Carrera) who owns a Car Audio shop. To go for something not expensive and easy to do, he told me to purchase Alpine S2S40C (2 kits for front and rear) The front ones needed some work to install them as I used the old frame seakers adapting to this ones. The main problem is the lack of space I went for one the best solutions in 4" (2 ways) For the rear I ordered a set of adaptors on eBay (3D) and worked perfectly To remark my car was equipped with the Sound Package (Option code 490) with 6 channel amplifier Now It sounds pretty much better but still same distortion from the door speakers. Next step will be to isolate the doors and installing the same family from Alpine in 6.5" = S2S65C I could listen to them in other 996 and was smooth and perfect for me. Not the very best sound system but really good and higher quality than the 'overvalued' BOSE system. Kit Tweeter filters Tweeters placed with bi-component adhesive conector Ready to install the front desk kit The rear side kit: Adapter before wiring

996.1 here. I'm partially through my install of an Aliexpress Android unit (as others have done) but taking my time to take pictures, videos, etc. I have the unit all figured out and wired, now I'm down to basics. There's no alternative to taking a dremel to the factory console bracket, and if I am going to buy a new bracket, I might as well hack up the old one, right?

That's what I did - hack up the original bracket and buy a replacement for the parts box.

So I opted to order the replacement bracket a la PCCM+, figuring why hack the original, I'll keep it so it can be truly reverted to stock if someone wants. The new bracket doesn't have the top HVAC vent piece, and the old bracket seems to be one with the vent. I'm confused. I ordered part C, what I have now is part B with an extra bar across the middle (single DIN). I was assuming that top vent would clip off or around the bracket but I don't think it does. I ordered part 996-552-231-12-01C.

To answer my own question, I think I was on the wrong page and I needed to order Center Support - Porsche (996-552-131-04-A03)

C looks like what you want for a .1

So since I need to replace it anyway, I went ahead and took a dremel to my frame. Now there's not enough to hold the damn radio in place. I'm going to have to fabricate something.

Quotes source post: 19217389

I have everything working in my unit as well. I did ground my amp same as you did. But I too have the tick tick tick sound. It�s there with the sound off and I�m sure with the volume up as well. Have you figured out how to stop that ticking? It�s annoying when you have the volume off and it�s happening. Thanks

I purchased the "Chinese PCM2", Android Auto, Apple Car Play I purchased Alpine Woofers S2S65C for the doors: (the tweeters will be stored) - I will isolate with deadening internal panels, etc, etc (STP Aero, etc, complete 3 steps) - I will install the woofers with an adapted for 6,5" - The PCM2 chinese unit (8GB ROM + 128GB RAM final price with free shipping = 330€ with rear camera included) will receive a DSP Amplifier, probably Rebec Audio or Mosconi , 6 channel - I am considering to install a flat Subwoofer (under the passenger seat) - I received today the TPMS as well, looks OK ====> THIS THREAD I will keep you posted

I just went ahead and got the Ali express head unit, I was on the fence on the PCCM+ and after doing enough research I came to the assumption the PCCM+ is using the older CPU and less memory also a lack of wireless carplay or Android auto was a disappointment and the usb holder just didn't look premium to me, specs can be found here. PCCM+ Specs Anyway after going thru the install forums etc on here I reached out to Sadocom to ask which unit I needed and any difference between the snapdragon cpu to the chinese cpu, he said the snapdragon is a lot faster and reliable and the best all rounder head unit would be the 4GB 64GB rom version, clearly I didn't listen to that and went for the 8GB 256GB rom version, link to unit is here 996 Android Head Unit URL If you have BOSE like me then you will also need the fibre optic box which is an addon that can be found here 996 BOSE Optic box finally I asked him about a rear camera which he said he would include as a gift on my order obviously cant guarentee you would get that but worth an ask if you want one. Today Ali Express started the anniversary sale so the price has gone down a lot on top of that after I logged into Ali I got a popup for coupons to attach to any order which took an extra $40 off my order if you don't see those just click on my coupons under your account name and activate them. My total price for the highest level Ali express head unit with BOSE optic box came in at Subtotal $403.71 Shipping Free shipping AliExpress Coupon -$40.00 Tax $25.23 Total $388.94 Hope this helps anyone who is on the fence or confused as to which model to get and anyone that reads this after the anniversary sale is completed ignore the price above.

Quotes source post: 19339585

When I looked at the price of the PCCM+ and its limited car play featuure, for that price a new system and speakers can be had for a lot less. Let us know how your install goes, I am on the fence Aliexpress unit due to the *****, I want a full touch screen with zero *****. I am looking into a Alpine iLX-W670 and the features it has to to keep my Bose system and dial in the 6 channel amp

For people that have installed the Ali express head unit in a BOSE MOST (fiber) car - does the fader (or left/right) become non-functional? Since it appears there are only two channels into the MOST fiber converter, I can see how you either have L/R balance or F/R fade, but not both. Is that correct? -Tom 2003 C2

Quotes source post: 19340619

There is a way to get proper fade to work as it should. Look at my previous posts

Quotes source post: 19340917

Yours looked to be a 99 - without BOSE and without MOST/fiber. I'm trying to find out is there any way to KEEP the BOSE amplifier asis with the MOST fiber interface and have both L/R balance and F/R fade? If you outlined that somewhere - I cannot find it. Please point me to your post. Thanks!

Today I received the Center Unit "PCCM", Porsche Chinese Communication Management

Finally have mine installed and everything working as it should. I am pleased by the fitment although I was worried after seeing some of the gaps. I did cut my frame and used screws to secure the stereo in the frame. I mounted it where it�s set back a little.

finally I asked him about a rear camera which he said he would include as a gift on my order obviously cant guarentee you would get that but worth an ask if you want one. Today Ali Express started the anniversary sale so the price has gone down a lot on top of that after I logged into Ali I got a popup for coupons to attach to any order which took an extra $40 off my order if you don't see those just click on my coupons under your account name and activate them. My total price for the highest level Ali express head unit with BOSE optic box came in at Subtotal $403.71 Shipping Free shipping AliExpress Coupon -$40.00 Tax $25.23 Total $388.94 Hope this helps anyone who is on the fence or confused as to which model to get and anyone that reads this after the anniversary sale is completed ignore the price above.[/QUOTE] So HOW did you ask questions? AND where did the coupon popup? I am ready to order but would like the free camera and coupon.

Quotes source post: 19341302

This will help you, as I am doing the same https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...face-long.html Also a good picture of the Horseshoe covered in leather, which I rarely see.

I need a 2003 MOST digital to analog help. 2003 is a problem apparently according to Rod at CAI. Has anyone done it on a 2003??

Quotes source post: 19343124

So HOW did you ask questions? AND where did the coupon popup? I am ready to order but would like the free camera and coupon.[/QUOTE] Open up a chat with him on the product page, if on the mobile app it's at the bottom next to add to cart. Coupons are aliexpress generic ones not specific to him you will see them under your account or on the main page there is a coupons icon. BTW after I ordered mine I noticed the snapdragon said wired android not wireless but the Chinese chip had wireless I reached out to him and he confirmed snapdragon does wireless android also now.

Quotes source post: 19345444

�03 and up HiFi and BOSE use MOST. I have an �03 and just replaced my amp.

Quotes source post: 19345601

According to Rod us 03 cars have the first and only MOST that was changed in 04 with a different module. Our luck

Quotes source post: 19345444

Make sure to order the Ali Xpress unit that comes with the head unit with BOSE optic box

Quotes source post: 19345612

wait there is a option for me? Can you direct me to a link ?

All the optic boxes do not work for 2003. See below.

Quotes source post: 19345623

This is the most optic box you need with the head unit $68.00 | fiber optic box https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPQrP9y

Quotes source post: 19345601

What amp did you use?

I upgraded the speakers in my 2003 996 Carrera with: - Front dash & rear = Alpine S2S40C (I am super happy with them) - Door woofers = Alpine S2S65C (the installer is going to isolate with deadening material) - Under the passenger seat = Amplified Subwoofer Alpine PWE-S8 - The Aliexpress Unit I got is Unit Ref. 7862 8G 128G Carplay LTE My installer will remove the PCM2 + CDC4 Compact Disc Changer + Telephone Module + Becker BE6600 Amplifier + Fiber Optic MOST wiring (GO OUT MOST!!!!!!! ) I want to get a DSP Amplifier. I don't need an expensive one. Indeed, I discovered a fantastic high quality brand: Rebec Audio This is chinese brand with very good quality (not "chinese" as a demoted term). You know Apple is made in China as well. Just with the small Amplifier DSP Rebec R6S you will have a super� improvement. The champion of the last 12-15 years of the European Car Audio Championship is Spanish and installs the Rebec Audio brand in their car upgrades. I could stay inside and listen to a car made by him with this material and I can assure you this is incredible! Video (you can select automatic translation into english for subtitles) Look for USA distribution. Mosconi, Audison, etc are not pretty much better than them and prices are in a better range. For me, the bummer was getting those speakers from a buddy who's an authorized Alpine distributor before stumbling upon the awesome Rebec Audio brand, with even better stuff and at a cheaper price

Hey everyone! Could anyone help me think this through? I have a 2001 996 Cab with the PCM1 and M680 amplifier with DSP (no BOSE or MOST). I recently purchased the Sadocom unit, install was pretty straightforward however during the installation when I connected the blue wires (AMP) together (photo attached) I started to notice a loud hum from the speakers even though the RCA were not connected. I connected the RCA, did the 17 plug grounding for the amplifier and now I have sound but the speakers pop loudly during power on and there is a very audible hum from all speakers independent of the unit (with it on and off, all sound levels). I am thinking what my next steps could be. It is strange that the hum is coming even with RCA unplugged. Any help appreciated (

I did a double DIN Sony deck on my 99 Cab, but for my 2003 Targa I wanted to keep the �stock look�. Of course I have the dreaded CDR-23 which is the least upgradable stereo. After a lot of research here I went with the Tranzit Blu system I found on eBay and connected it to the FM transponder with the Euro adapter I purchased separately. The wiring was a big strange as I had to use them power from the temp system as the power on the head unit switches to 5 volts from 12 and will not run the box. After the install I was very impressed with how well the system works, sounds quality is fantastic (which I worried about), and the phone call quality is also great. The title of the track and phone information are read out on the head unit screen as well. It really integrates well and keeps the factory look. It�s also about $400 cheaper than the Dennison unit and you don�t have to drop another $1-200 at the dealer to �reprogram� the unit to activate the car changer mode for adding aux in. Overall, best economical stock look upgrade for the dreaded CDR-23

I have 03 Turbo and bought unit from AliExpress Sadocom. I took it in to 2 car installers; one wants $1800 to install with 2 cameras. The other says they don�t install cheap knockoffs (however they sell Boss). I decided to install myself. When I turn unit on, sound would work but then stop after 10seconds. When I unplug the fiber cable and reconnect, it will reset and play for 10seconds and then no sound.

For anyone with a AliExpress pccm plus running the can bus equipped harness please could you take a picture of the system settings menu . In particular what it says under canbus protocol? If you know for sure that your canbus decoder works I would also be interested in what you get on the screen when using the print protocol setting in factory settings menu.Tjanks in advance .

Quotes source post: 19346357

check my previous posts, as i had this problem.

Does anyone have a 9x6 with a working canbus with pccm plus clone (AliExpress) ? I have tested the settings with original decoder setting of Cayenne BG.XP with protocol print and get nothing . With the unit set to rzc (raise) and pk low setting o get data scrolling using protocol print , suggesting it's doing something . Still nothing meaningful results no outside temp display no air con display etc ???? Any ideas. I get the impression I still don't have a working protocol for the decoder box ?

Quotes source post: 19349480

I figured it out based on older posts. Getting an optic cable and connecting it directly to amp and Most adapter fixed the sound. It seems that the existing fiber cable is connected by an extension cable which cause not to work.

Folks. I solved it in my 996. read the whole post. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-new-deck.html

I'm almost done with my Sadocom install. I'm prewiring for the backup camera (which I may not use) but I wanted to test it and it doesn't work. As with most of these Android units with a Canbus box (I've installed 5 in BMWs now), you find the 3rd wire in the harness next to the power, in my case it's pink and is labelled "reverse" with a quick disconnect along with way. I connected that to the camera red wire, put the car in reverse and canbus beeps, but no voltage on the pink wire and no signal. If I disconnect the camera wire and run it to 12v, the head unit changes to the backup grid but still no image. If you wired a backup camera here, how did you do it? 2nd question. There's a long red wire I just left hanging for now, thinking I needed to run it to 12v constant for memory or something. Was shocked to find out today that it carries 12v off the harness. I assume this is not needed for anything, but weird. I also asked the seller about both issues, 12hr lag on replies as usual. backup camera wiring 12v out on this very long wire?

Why is everyone going with the Alliexpress stuff??? Get a Pioneer or Kenwood or simular Wireless Apple/android with 18 band eqs... $ 350 deck $29 double din housing $15 connector $99 optical converter $500...

Quotes source post: 19362397

Because it looks better, sounds better, has more features, is more expandable (apps) and upgradeable. It also looks factory.

Quotes source post: 19362385

I suspect if you trace the wire back you might find it goes to Pin A3 on the power plug into the back of the head unit . That's 12v ACC in. But it's spliced about three times so can have 12v on it from the output of the canbus decoder or elsewhere . I don't know for certain but I wonder if it's extra long to reach the phone prep socket where you would get 12v ACC from if you needed it ? Do you have a working canbus decoder ? If so what does the info in the factory settings menu say about it . The info is in original car agreement or the menu below that car model . Factory settings PW 3368 I'd also be interested to know what you get if you switch in protocol print , this displays the serial canbus input from the decoder on the screen . Mine doesn't show anything when I do this with the settings it came with . If you have a fully working decoder it will turn the head unit off and on via the canbus decoder . And should show outside temp.

About device shows "can protocol version unknown" I do see external temp on my display. Can box type is set to RZC/Porsche/All/RZC per the seller.

Quotes source post: 19362554

Thanks , what you see is set in the factory settings menu under original car agreement . There are settings for Aircon too. Theoretically with canbus working correctly the unit is powered up and shutdown via can bus and should work similarly to PCM units in as much as it should work with key in ignition but not on and go out when key removed . It should also control the backlights .

Quotes source post: 19345897

The black optic box does not work on 2003. Get the blue one here on Amazon https://a.co/d/fisfDYA

Quotes source post: 19362450

Question 1. I connected to red wire from camera to one of the pink wire. Don�t connect together and check when you put car on reverse. You need to also connect power to the camera. Question 2. The long red wire needs to be connected to the ignition switch power. There�s a connector underneath the heater controls that is for an unused phone that can be used. It�s the green wire.

Quotes source post: 19362385

Question 1. I connected to red wire from camera to one of the pink wire. Don�t connect together and check when you put car on reverse. You need to also connect power to the camera. Question 2. The long red wire needs to be connected to the ignition switch power. There�s a connector underneath the heater controls that is for an unused phone that can be used. It�s the green wire.

I did a write up on my install and tested both boxes for optical. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-new-deck.html

Quotes source post: 19362415

Educate me. What's the sounds better more features part and the apps? Mines got 18 band EQ, Wireless Android Auto mirrors my phone perfectly and no wires. And wireless remote if I want to use. I'm just trying to see why folks are going with this chinese unit, I'm really asking a valid questions.. To me it seems like (i read so many posts throughout the web with BOSE MOST challenges with our cars) and it seems like everyone is jumping on the Sadocom bandwagon, even myself contacted them directly and they "salesman" me in saying they won't sell the working module without me buying the deck. Thats when i knew you can just buy any double din deck and get it to work on our cars. I bought 2 modules off Amazon, tested them and the blue one worked perfectly. Its in my car now, with the optical module running the BOSE amp. Dont be limited on your options with this Sadocon "hit and run" deck. If you have a problem your screwed. "Poof" the company disappears, like they all do. Reading so many posts the Sadocom gets hot and overheats. Melted wires and even caused fires. The point is you are not limited. I proved that in my point with my thread I posted: BOSE MOST OPTICAL MODULE WORKS USE ANY DECK ​​I get it.. those who have it installed and are backing it as the best thing since sliced bread, because you believe that was the only working solution..You were cornered into buying the unit... that's so untrue. You can install Pioneer, Kenwood, Boss , whatever headunit you want. Cheaper and much more stable. Radio decks made by companies in the business over 40 years... The Sadocom is a android device and that means it needs lots of power to run and gets hot. And when the company disappears and no more upgrades to some random glitch that has been identified (im a android phone user myself) your screwed. Android units (phones/tablets) are always being upgraded due to some glitch. You want a frozen Sadocom stuck in recovery mode and wait for a random email from a random person across the world to help you with no real solution. They made their sale, you're screwed.. Get a stable deck and let your phone properly be updated by its carrier/manufacturer that feeds to your deck. Relying on a email based outfit with no history is just crazy talk. Folks get a double din reputable deck of your choice that has WIRELESS Apple Car Play/ Android Auto and your phone is tied to the unit if you want it to be. Waze, Pandora, whatever installed on your phone will be on the deck, stable. Without any glitches. Solid EQ and crossovers built in. And RCA outs for sub and rear camera. If I ever you have a problem with my deck, I just call and get it swapped by Pioneer same day. Dont be fooled we are stuck at all with Sadocom. The unit is crap and its not going to last, and my Pioneer will be still going strong for years to come. Lastly, I read folks wanting to goto an installer and install the Sadocom. I respect folks not installing themselves. However many many installers don't want to touch that unit let alone throw out outrageous install prices. There's a reason why... Final words: When that cheap radio **** stops working, you're screwed. I've seen the unit installed. I give that volume **** 1 year and it's gonna be toast with normal usage. Dealing with 'someone' across the world to only reply random times without even a ticket number alone (or a phone number) only because they manufacturered X amount of units is a red flag and have to dump them...Sooner or later that email address is gonna go undeliverable and Sadocom customers are gonna be pissed. And that's a fact. Plus my way was even cheaper lol

Simple lookup of that unit on google and I'd run so far from it. And that's just the first page.....

Quotes source post: 19349480

I solved that. Read my thread I started

Quotes source post: 19362397

IMHO, it's because they want something that "looks" like the Porsche PCCM+. That's it! The Chinese have been producing decent dual DIN radios with Apply Carplay for a long time, but no one cared to use them in their Porsches. The one that is somewhat popular among the Porsche crowd and peddled on Alliexpress is the first one that mimics the look and feel of the PCCM+ with some bonus features that are not available on the PCCM+ like reverse camera. Sound quality is relative. Conventional wisdom would tell you that the Chinese are not really going to match the performance of well-established brands like Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony. The problem with Chinese knock-offs is they look like the genuine article but they never perform as such. For me, I'm perfectly happy with a new Alpine single DIN that interconnects to the factory connectors. Gives me everything I need at the moment - that is, Bluetooth for streaming music and handfree phone support. I've also updated the speakers and the sound improvement is significantly better partly because the original HAES were deteriorating and the voice coil was scrubbing against the cone. Now, if for some reason I'm ready for an upgrade to a dual DIN Carplay setup, I'm going with the Porsche PCCM+ and the big reason is integration, but until then, Alpine fits the bill.

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Awesome that you are happy with your decision. Enjoy your Pioneer! I am happy with my decision and will enjoy my Aliexpress. Cheers

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Some (not all) the Android units have newer chipsets with better audio than your Sony/Pioneer stuff. That's the sounds better. More features - you can run android apps. For example, an OBD2 diagnostic, a skidpad type (Torque) and a lot more. The screen is generally bigger, and in many cases it looks better. I'm not jumping on a Sadocom bandwagon, I have simply installed these units in at least 4 of my BMWs and my Toyota Tundra. Yes, they all have flaws, but they are cheap and generally work very well. In the 996 case, I wanted the look of the PCCM+ without spending $1500 and having a more open platform to boot. I have yet to see another head unit I'd want in my 996 besides these two. They just don't look right to me.

Quotes source post: 19369941

i respect that. Keep in mind the new decks mirror your phone apps if you need. Any app As for sound I can cut frequencies and the EQ. I let the bose handle the sub crossover.

In my case i got this so clear! I will install the PCM Chinese as a head unit The Audio System will be powered by a DSP amplifier and pretty much better quality speakers with door deadening. You don't need to spend a lot of money If you do it in a smart way your 996 will have a super� sound system The chinese PCM will provide you a flexible and multiple option unit.

FYI, the Porsche PCCM+ is a chinese android.

the whinging about CHINESE parts is extremely funny to me.

Anyone know of a Chinese/knockoff single DIN PCCM unit? Like the one for the 993?

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Yes I know!!! haha

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To address the above. 1. I connected the 3rd wire off the harness (pink, labelled reverse) to one end of the red camera wire. The camera will only work if you apply 12v to the other end of the camera wire, AND connect 12v to the red wire for the power plug. This is not usually needed with a canbus box. 2. The long red wire already has 12v on it and ABSOLUTELY should not be connected to ignition power. It already has power. I will post pics for both of the above soon.

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^^^ You will now be referred to as "brontothesaurus".

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So there may be more than one configuration of these harnesses so I'm open minded , however on my harness the long red wire is connected to pin A3 in the power plug ! It's spiced together with the red wire to the canbus adapter and pin A7 on plug A which is 12v ACC . So if your original radio harness does not support 12v ACC at pin A7 on plug A , as I know mine an 04 UK car with originally pcm 2 does not , there will be no 12v on pin A7 or on the power plug pin a3 unless you have a working canbus adapter . If you have neither a working canbus adapter and no connection from the radio side the long red wire can be used to connect to the 12v ACC at the phone prep plug. Hope this makes sense .if you do happen to have a working canbus adapter please do let me know the model (written on the box) and the protocol it's running ( found in factory settings under car make below original car agreement) . Pw3368

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Yes. The radio actually comes with 2 harnesses, only one was proper for my car/config. My install is complete and it works, but I have noticed two problems, 1) I have no illumination - need to check that connection/wire. 2) The unit loses time (at least, haven't checked for presets etc) so it seems it's not getting 12v constant. I am still not sure if my canbus is working right but if you want to compare notes sometime, PM me and mabe we can arrange a whatsapp call.

Use the phone harness to tap into 12v 12v aux and ground.

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Yeah but the red wire on the radio that is supposed to be used for this is already hot.

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I have a single DIN PCCM in my 996 and I recently installed this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Power-Acoustik-CP-71-Apple-CarPlay-Only-6-5-Touchscreen-Car-Stereo-Single-DIN-New/5055269224 in my E36 M3. For $140, it sounds good and the wireless carplay works great so far. The shiny finish is a little cheesy by it gets the job done. If I didn't have a PCCM already, I would have saved $1,200 and just installed one of these in my 996 as well.

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Good looking out mate!

I recently upgraded from a double-din CarPlay unit to a single-din BT unit (you read that correctly), and couldn't be happier. Old: New: The thread from idea to completion is here: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...do-i-need.html

Excuse the pollen, it's the season here in NC and I had my top down all day! I've essentially completed the install of the Aliexpress/Sadocom PCCM+ clone in my 2001 Carrera 4. Overall, I am happy with it. Note that installation is not for the faint of heart, and I still have a few quirks to work out. It's not hard to install really, but doing things like taking a dremel to the single DIN frame, and fabricating mounting blocks to hold the unit into the fascia make this more than a plug and play. I've installed about 6 of these android units so far, so I am pretty familiar with their quirks.

Becker CDR-23 finally gave out. As most of you know Bose MOST is a nightmare and I didn’t feel like gutting the entire system at this time. Not a fan of the the PCCM+ in the 996. Found a way to make the Porsche Classic Radio work but I just couldn’t justify the price. Blaupunk Frankfurt, fully integrated with the 12 speaker Bose. Color is almost bang on. Mic and USB hidden from view. Shoutout to Showtime Audio here in Chicago. Top notch service from first phone call to install. Next up, GT3 center console delete and phone mount. Ignore the broken cup holder (Any leads on a used one)?

Yeah, the Blaupunk Frankfurt is where it's at. I didn't buy this car for it to be the most technologically advanced. Actually, the opposite. While I'm a huge Apple fan and I want CarPlay in my other vehicles...I didn't want it in this one. I'm not so wannabe "old school" that I'll pull out a map when on road trips (however I think that everyone should pack one in case you get lost where there is no signal). I'm not looking at Android apps in the car. I'm not watching videos/films in the car. Let's be real, most aftermarket head units look terrible. Like they stepped right out of the 90s. Like slammed mini Toyota pickup with neon lights and "YOTA" on the tailgate, 90s. Things that are important to me: - BT Audio. - Volume kn0b. - Definitely not touch screen. I want to be able to feel for the kn0b then micro adjust it easily, depending on the song or if I'm getting into the song, while keeping my eyes on the road. I often mis-click when using touchscreen systems. - Great sound. - Matches the interior aesthetic. - Definitely not ultra futuristic, which is what 99.999% of single and double din head units look like. - Clean, clear radio reception. - Firm clicky buttons. (The Frankfurt's buttons are soooo firm and clicky 😊 ) Do I want CarPlay in my X5M that's relegated to family duty?: YES Do I want CarPlay in my 911 that's my fun/weekend/solo car: NO

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Looks awesome! Does the new Blaupunkt unit work with the factory BOSE out of the box? Or did you need some kind of adapter? J

Needs an adapter. It's on my invoice as 'IX-Pro 12' but I cannot find it anywhere online. I left this install to a professional shop here in Chicago. Paid a premium but zero headaches and all is working as intended.

Lots of great info in here As always, a big thank you to those who take the time to post. vetfever

Wow, that Blaupunkt Frankfurt I think may be the best looking/matching I've seen for the 996 yet! It looks absolutely perfect. We should have a "beauty contest" thread for the radio options -- maybe separate threads for single and double DIN. Everybody posts radios their radios, and then have a poll to vote on which one wins. My money is on the Frankfurt though. How is the quality of Bluetooth phone calls, and the overall audio quality, with the Blaupunkt Frankfurt?

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I posted my process and thoughts here: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...do-i-need.html tl;dr: The audio quality is great. I also use a small 100W amp to drive the formerly-Bose sub. The head unit drives the other formerly-Bose speakers amazingly. The call quality is great even without using the supplied corded external mic. Even my young kid can converse on the phone from the back seat with no issues.

For those looking for a single-DIN CarPlay radio, this Power Acoustik CP-71 seems to be getting very positive comments on some other car forums despite its very low price ( https://www.walmart.com/ip/Power-Aco...New/5055269224 ). I don't have any direct experience with it, nor have I noticed anyone using it with a 996 , but it sounds like a pretty good option for those wanting single DIN CarPlay ( https://www.walmart.com/ip/Power-Aco...New/5055269224 ).

99-01 with M490 sound has the rear speaker wires, wired 180* OUT of phase from the factory for some reason. Installed replacement speakers will also be 180* out of phase as well, unless they are re-phased with a cross pinned adapter or install speaker wires backwards

The rear speakers are wired out of phase from the factory.

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Thank you for the tip! It�s surprisingly well-spec�d. The S2000 guys convinced me and I picked up the last one at my local Walmart. I�ll offer a little review after the install.

Can anyone post the wattage output of the Power Acoustik CP-71? I can't seem to find it anywhere.

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4x17w per channel

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Thanks!

Hey this thing is pretty cool! Power Acoustik CP-71w $140 only at Walmart As the S2000 and Lotus forums have discovered, it�s one of the very few �true� single-din CarPlay units out there. Got it installed yesterday in about an hour. I had an Alpine deck in there before and harness was already hacked, so no ideas how you�d wire this to OEM. Pros: -great audio! 10 band eq plus 3 band sub eq. Line and speaker level outs. I have it going through a 4x45W miniamp plus a powered sub. Sounds way better than it has any right to be. I assumed audio was going to suck but it definitely does not. -Looks really clean & minimalist. Just a couple buttons, bezel is integrated. Def feels more premium than most cheap CarPlay units. -CarPlay connection is very fast. I clocked 8 seconds from power on to CarPlay autoconnecting. -It�s very responsive and screen real estate is maximized for the single-din space -works with backup and front camera (!) Cons: -some ground loop hiss, not audible while driving (could be my amp) -no amber LED option for buttons -screen could be brighter, little hard to see with top down in sun. Doesn�t auto-adjust like a phone would. prob not an issue for coupe owners. �Night� mode with lights on. -no volume ****. Up/down buttons and can swipe to slide volume on screen. Power button doubles as mute. -weird removal process, tabs on the fascia have to be broken to insert removal keys (?). Worked around it by installing into a different DIN bracket -lacks advanced audio customization options (Blaupunkt above is superior). No high/low pass filters built in. Onboard amp is weak at 4x17W. Im never going to use phone or the mic so no idea how well that works. Not sure if it�s a long term keeper yet but can�t argue with value. Couple cons but more usable than the Porsche offering, at what, 15% of price? No affiliation, was just in the market for a new HU.

Awesome. Any chance we can get a wider pic to see how it looks with the entire stack and rest of the interior? Wide like this:

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Thanks! Very nice. High-5 for the double-cubbies! I love mine:

@sublm8 that looks fantastic for a single din option - great find!

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I like how the "new-old" Frankfurt looks in the 996. Never saw it installed in a 996 before. Do you know if it works with the Bose Amplifier and with the CD changer? Thanks!

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Other people here are more qualified to speak on this, but I don't think so. The previous owner of my car removed the Bose amp and CD changer (and kindly included them with the car), but those run on the MOST fiber optic system and the Frankfurt doesn't natively work with that system. I think there are some converters available. Doesn't Android-based PCCM+ come with one? So, I think it's possible to use your Bose amp and speakers for sure using that adapter. Not sure about the CD changer.

Can't speak to the CD changer, but mine is hooked up to the BOSE MOST Amp and 12 speaker system in my 2003. You need an adapter. I couldn't tell you which one and 20 years of expired links here on Rennlist to ones that might 'work' led me to leave this install up to a shop that knows what they're doing.

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Yes, the OEM Porsche PCCM+ fully supports MOST transfer bus; hence, one big reason people why elect to install those expensive units. The aftermarket analog-to-MOST conversion boxes are basically just that... converts the analog pre-amp audio output and converts it into a MPEG data form that communicates with the factory audio components. But that's all they do and in fact you lose fader control among other things since that information is part of another channel that is not supported by those aftermarket MOST boxes. If you have a MOST bus car (post-2002), then you need to understand the drawbacks when disconnecting the MOST chain. I believe Porsche used MOST25 on the 996 and so that means up to 60 channels of data can be moved through the car's networks. If you disconnect the optic loop, then you might get an error on some later cars like when the PCM2 transmits GPS data from the unit to the gauge cluster.

I have a 2002 (No MOST) car, so then I guess then, that the Frankfurt would work with the OEM Bose amplifier?. What it have me confused is the pin lay out and the lack of one socket in the Frankfurt vs the CDR 220 Frankfurt: If I get it right, due the lack of the socket C in the Blaupunkt, is quite clear that it wont control the CD Changer (not big deal, despite Im a bit "romantic" about having everything working in the car) I see the speakers output in the socket B, but I also see some line out in the socket C. Are those for the amplifier?

@parris, I don't know the answer to your questions. Just here to report some unexpected nice behavior of the Frankfurt: I was on a phone call (talking through the Frankfurt) when I pulled into the garage. I expected the head unit to power down as usual when I turned the key off and removed it. Nope. Like modern cars, it kept the phone call active through the head unit and speakers until I disconnected the call. When I finished the conversation and disconnected the call (key in hand by now), the head unit then powered down. Nice. Also, on a related note, the head unit has a 1-hour power on feature when the ACC power isn't on, like many old VW AG cars. So, if you press the power button (when ACC power isn't on), the head unit will power up for up to 1 hour. Nice.

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Glad it worked out. You move at world record pace from post to purchase/install! A lot of guys are using this single DIN CarPlay radio in Ferrari 360's and 430's. Pretty amazing for $140!

I had the Blaupunkt installed 48 hours before I attended a Porsche & Pastries in Chicagoland last Saturday, left the keys in the ignition, but off. Came back a while later to the radio playing, threw me for a loop, lol. Need to remember it's a long 'push' to turn it off.

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That shouldn't have happened. Did you wire it to 12V switched power? I tapped into the unused wired telephone harness for 12V switched power.

Hello, somewhat new here and just wanted to say thank you to all that have posted in this thread. The information has been very helpful to someone getting started with a project. Only problem has been that it took me a little over 2 hours to read all the posts LOL. Please keep on sharing the knowledge!!!

Sorry for this post, did it by mistake and can't figure out how to erase it.

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Quaz, how has your experience with Atoto regarding reliability and quality? I'm looking at one of their S8 units. Thank you!

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allcool, how has your experience been with Atoto regarding reliability and quality? Curious, I'm looking at one of their S8 models. Thank you!

Hi guys Here you have my inputs about the new Car Audio system I installed in my 996 (It's a translation from Soloporsche.com , spanish forum, so apologies if something is not perfectly translated) A) 7" Android Auto/Apple CarPlay Car Stereo PCCM Style Ref. 7862 (8GB RAM + 128GB ROM) 1. Quality and Appearance: The radio has decent and acceptable quality. The fit is not perfect and the integration is not seamless like an original Porsche PCCM+. The buttons are well-made, and the two volume and selection ***** are appreciated because they are not touch-sensitive (I dislike touch volume controls; they often fail and distract you). Luis Nieto from IDECARS PERFORMANCE had quite a task to fit it properly into its slot. 2. Screen: The 7" screen feels small compared to the 10" screen in my VW Golf 7, but it serves its purpose well. The brightness and resolution are adequate. 3. Functionality : With minimal adjustments, it is quick and stable. The interface is intuitive. The Bluetooth connection with the iPhone is stable and error-free. I have played audio tracks both via Bluetooth directly from the phone to the Android functions of the device and from Spotify via Apple CarPlay. Both methods work fine. In the former, the volume can be controlled from the phone; in CarPlay, it is controlled by the radio's volume ****. 4. Software : The operating system appears to be Android 12, though Android 13 has been out for a while. Thanks to a significant contribution from our colleague @Samer (user in soloporsche), who provided a file with an update that improves the operating system, integrates the physical buttons with custom functions, and removes unnecessary clutter, the configuration has significantly improved. For those with model 7862, I recommend obtaining the file from Samer. He provides step-by-step instructions that are very detailed and easy to follow. I am not sure if this radio can accommodate future updates. B) Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Earlier, I started a thread seeking advice on integrating this functionality into the 996. Apart from USB screen devices and a few other gadgets, I found little that interested me. However, I found this Kit on Aliexpress . In my case, I went to Neum�ticos Gonmo, my trusted tire shop near Madrid, and they installed the four internal rim sensors without removing the tires (balancing was not necessary, at least for my car). IDECARS used one of the two available USB ports on the radio, hidden behind the lower part of the climate control area, to connect a black rectangular "module" that links via Bluetooth with the valve sensors. The second USB port is for direct updates, software, connecting the phone via cable, etc., and it has been installed inside the central armrest glove compartment. There, we connected a red USB drive that comes with the TPMS kit, containing the software to install the app on the Android radio. Once the installation is complete, the sensors connect immediately. C) Audio Upgrade Installation Luis collaborates regularly with Juanjo from JC Audio Getafe . They are good friends and have competed in Car Audio contests multiple times. 1. Speaker Setup: - As you know, it has Alpine component speakers ( S2S40C 4-inch midrange + tweeter ) installed in the dashboard and rear side panels. - In both doors, we installed 5.25" Ground Zero GZTC 130.2X woofers . These were chosen because they handle mid and bass ranges well within the premium component speaker options of the same diameter as the stock ones. A 6.5" setup with an adapter could be installed, but the gain is minimal, and alternatives like this woofer are more practical. Luis and Juanjo, being experts, find the most suitable options for each system. - For powerful bass, subwoofers are necessary. Given the 996's configuration, it is impossible to install them under the seat (they don't fit), and custom enclosures are impractical. Thus, we opted for a pair of Rebec Audio U6.9 self-amplified subwoofers mounted in parallel behind the rear seatbacks and hidden with custom upholstered wood. 2. Installation Details : Everything was re-cabled from scratch, eliminating the original fiber optics and soundproofing the entire doors. 3. System 'Engine' : An 8-channel DSP amplifier with 2 Pre-out channels from Rebec Audio model RPX B10S was installed. - Each dashboard tweeter gets one channel, each 4" midrange another, and each door woofer another, totaling six channels. The rear component speakers share a channel, and the two Pre-out channels feed the rear subwoofers. Everything is finely tuned for timing, phase, etc. The sound is set to zero flat, as music is supposed to be heard, but personal adjustments can be made. The setup, handled by an expert, delivers phenomenal sound quality. 4. Result: Exceptional sound quality! The first song I played was "Thunderstruck" by AC/DC, and it was impressive. Various tracks from a playlist I created for sound testing sounded fantastic. Some songs with strong bass were intense, and at full volume, there was minimal rear reverberation. Other tracks with less bass sounded smooth even at full volume. The 996 is not an easy car to set up, but the DSP tuning is excellent. The sound feels like the singer is right on the dashboard, and the subwoofers deliver bass as if they are right there. The setup process involves using a professional microphone to measure each speaker's distance so the sound reaches the driver's position simultaneously, adjusting each speaker's phase, etc., all done by a seasoned installer with a trained ear. I recommend anyone who enjoys good music to consider upgrading their car audio system. For me, it has been worth it. Our good friend @navarroracing, although far away, has been a great help in this project. From the start, he tried to find a cost-effective solution with good results. He once gave me an excellent quote for soundproofing the doors and installing 6.5" woofers. If he were closer, I would have definitely gone to him. His solution is well-balanced and reasonably priced. He knows Alpine and the 996 very well, and his attention to detail is exquisite. Note: Why Rebec Audio? This brand is relatively unknown. Brands like Gladen, Audison, Hertz, Eton, Focal, Ground Zero, Mosconi, Helix, and Rockford Fosgate are some of the premium names in the car audio world. More common brands like Alpine, Blaupunkt, Pioneer, and Kenwood make good products, but the ones I mentioned are more specialized and typically higher-end. Price is also a factor. Rebec Audio is a top-tier brand, manufactured in China, in the high-end car audio range. It offers excellent construction and a fantastic balance in all components. Just because it’s made in China doesn’t mean it’s inferior. They manufacture everything according to quality standards, and as I mentioned, it's very good. Juanjo from JC Audio is the exclusive distributor for Spain and prefers installing Rebec in many cars over other brands. He has had excellent results with it, and the price is very competitive. A good friend had a complete Rebec system installed in his Golf GTI, and I was amazed at the quality. Luis Nieto also uses this brand and recently installed a complete system in a Mercedes S-Class with outstanding results. D) Rear Camera Instead of installing the one I received from eBay, which is a cube that mounts on the bumper, Luis installed a high-quality camera with excellent resolution that I am quite satisfied with at first glance. This is something the original Porsche PCCM+ does not support. E) Bluetooth Phone This is one of the major drawbacks. When I talk to someone, they do not hear me clearly, and it sounds a bit "distant." Despite integrating the microphone correctly, the call quality is not as good as the radio Android Auto in my Golf 7, where calls are also not very clear. Regarding the radio, aside from integrating Samer's software, I haven't made any adjustments yet, and there are many to explore. Unlike the original Porsche unit, it supports many more functions, though some are not very well executed. This is something each person must evaluate. F) Other Considerations: - The 996.2 xenon headlights used to light up adequately, but now with LED bulbs, it feels like daytime. NavarroRacing was right. A great improvement. - After uninstalling the anti-theft detector module, the battery consumption seems to have decreased. - The rear center console, which I poorly painted, now looks as good as if it came factory-finished by Porsche. Sanding down my multiple layers by hand and applying five professional painter coats made a huge difference. - With the original equipment removed, the 6-CD changer, phone module, and Becker amplifier are available. The PCM still works, but the CD reader is damaged. I had mistakenly inserted a map CD while a music CD was inside, ruining the reader. I gave it to Luis for spare parts. - The double USB port for charging phones, installed in place of the cigarette lighter, has a relay (important) because the lighter's connection is constant. Without modification, it would always be on and illuminate the LED. I plan to paint the white connection black for better concealment. These are 3.0 fast charging ports. By the way, I got carried away... our friend @Schwen started this thread just wanting to install better speakers in the 996 dashboard. And wow! I ended up diving into a full setup. Well, that's the end of my detailed account... If anyone wants more details, feel free to PM me. I won't discuss prices. There are many reputable installers in Spain. I am extremely satisfied with the service from IDECARS, which has also solved many issues with the 996. Perfectionist and great person! PS: My Spotify playlist for testing audio quality includes a variety of tracks from Pavarotti to AC/DC, and covers a wide range of frequencies. Feel free to use it: ( https://open.spotify.com/playlist/5y...6622f1153040ec )

Just installed this $30 Aliexpress touchscreen stereo that has Bluetooth and wired apple carplay and android auto. I like how it still looks somewhat period correct and not too modern. So far everything works like it should and sound quality using the factory Nokia amp is the same, if not better than the CDR-220. One downside is that there is no amber color selection.

Great info in this thread -- there is a lot to take in. I've still got some questions/things I need to confirm if possible: 1) I've got a 2003 966 Turbo. This model will for sure have the Bose/MOST system, correct? 2) If I want to install the Blaupunkt Frankfurt, or the AliExpress PCCM knockoff, or any other radio really, I'll need some kind of adapter that talks to the MOST system, but if I do this, I lose some kind of functionality? Can someone explain what exactly you lose? 3) For the AliExpress radio, the seller Sadocom offers a "Bose Fiber Optic Box" but I think I read in this thread that for the 2003 model year, that box does not work and a different one from Amazon must be used. Do I have this right? Thanks all!

I lost the Porsche info when installing the "Chinese PCCM" I don't need that info indeed and you can use the RPM Gauge display to see that. I removed all the fiber optic MOST and installed good quality oxygen free wiring for car audio specific

Quotes source post: 19481952

I don't know what you'll need to incorporate the MOST system and BOSE amp as that stuff was disconnected by the previous owner of my car. That stuff has been documented somewhere for sure. But, if you currently have a double din system, you may have to convert to a single din system to use the Blaupunkt Frankfurt like I did here: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...do-i-need.html I had to buy some brackets from Porsche and whatnot. I'm very happy with my setup and the extra cubbys provide me a nice place to stash my phone, garage door clicker (I hate having it on the sun visor), and misc stuff. Personally, I think the minimal in-car entertainment system suits vibe of the car.

Quotes source post: 19481952

I installed the aliexpress unit on my 2003 C4S Bose Most 1.) Yes more than likely same as my c4S you need the optical decoder box 2.) Only functionality I have lost to my knowledge is A.) Cant use fader for front rear so preset you fader before removing old head unit, balance left and right works fine as optic box is only 2 channel. b) for the button led lights to illuminate when i turn the lights on the car, i set in the settings for them to turn on with ignition power and its fine doesnt bother me if they are on like that, after all the old headunit was like that anyway. 3.) I bought the optical box from sadocom also I should also state i bought the snapdragon model it runs cooler and some people were posting high temps on their units mine stays nice and cool. People were stating the black optical box will shut off audio after 10 seconds and there is a potential work around using a different optical cable or to get the blue box, I ordered a blue box also and as I had both when I did my install I just used the blue box. Can be found on Amazon or cheap out like I did and order it from aliexpress. https://a.aliexpress.com/_msuDw1g Finally you will need some shims if you don't have a cage installed I modeled and 3d printed them and put the stl file up on thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6638973 If you have a single din unit the hvac needs to be moved to the bottom and they tell you to buy a new bezel and shelf which is about $110 for both or just buy the Metra kit that comes with it for $30 which fits perfectly so no need for the bezel or shelf https://a.co/d/b0emZHR Some people have hacked away at that cage to fit a .2 I just got mine after the install so haven't bothered with that yet there wasn't any instructions on installation but this site guided me and more than happy to assist you if you go down this path its very simple when you know how. I will say this the headunit is decent it is far more powerful than the official PCCM+ for a fraction of the cost and has wireless android auto and carplay, lots of memory if you don't want to use your phone and have native apps installed. The sound is very impressive compared to my old unit.

Quotes source post: 19483165

This was very helpful thank you. I'm still trying to decide between the Frankfurt and the Chinese PCCM. If I finally get PM ability, I may reach out. Thanks!

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I just installed the aliexpress headunit... I followed the instructions on this thread and thought I would try to pay it forward with my observations that may help someone else.... MY CAR: 2002 996 turbo 6spd (BOSE, non-MOST); had a pre-existing double-din headunit with rear-view camera that I installed 12-ish years ago. Almost plug and play. Audio out L/R RCA cables to L/R RCA cables... I didn't use LOC or splitters. Not sure if I have fader capability, but I don't use it anyway. Sound is great and comes out of all my speakers, as far as I can tell. Amp blue line to amp blue line... prewired with male and female plug ( required to get sound ). Green square plug to green square plug (not sure what this does or if connecting these is necessary, but I did). The only modification required was to get illumination as described in the thread.... briefly, the orange wire goes from black harness power plug and into the 6th position in the large radio harness.... i cut the orange wire it in the middle and the part going into the white plug is left dangling. there are two harnesses provided, but you only need one. I took a connecting pin from the other harness and connected that to the orange wire. A few observations: Red ACC line (long wire) - this did not need to be connected for me. In fact, when I did connect it to a switched 12V, the engine wouldn't shut off unless I fully removed the key (no good). Reverse line for rear camera goes to male plug (leave female dangling) Radio antenna - there is a small metal plug adapter to go from factory radio antenna into headunit. I think the antenna with the wires is for a powered antenna, which I do not have and so did not use this. I didn't connect 4G antenna There is a bunch of other stuff not needed: eg - there is a separate harness for CANBUS and another module for BOSE-MOST that I did not use (PS - for the illumination, I removed a pin from this CANBUS harness to use in my harness). So almost plug and play. Works great. Thanks for this thread for helping me figure it out... hopefully the above helps someone with the same BOST/pre-MOST car. Now just working on settings...

Hi guys This is my 996 Carrera This man is Juanjo (JC Audio CEO) He is one of the best Car Audio Installers in Europe, indeed he won a lot of prizes in Car Audio Competitions. He has a very special sense and thanks God he has incredible "Ears". He promised me to record a video for his channel using my car as an example. You can go to settings > subtitles > Language > english to understand it You Tube

Quotes source post: 19485100

How do you get the start up screen and background?

Hi You can contact directly this guy: smrpr (his nick name) @ smrpr He designed a dedicated upgrade software which includes start up screen, background, deletes several unuseful Android apps and finally It configures the lower physical buttons to be dedicated for Music and Maps

Hi all. Does anyone know of US alternative to the bergvillfx iso stereo adapter? I'd like to see if I can get one quicker and without $30 shipping. Thanks.

Quotes source post: 19497934

What are you attempting to do? I usually don't recommend HI/LO converters if it can be avoided. Are you buying a Continental unit or trying something different?

Hey, yes I should clarify. I am connecting a Continental TR7412UB-OR to a 1999 C2. With the connections shown in the image below:

Quotes source post: 19499580

IMHO, if you have your mind made up on the Continental, then I would recommend biting the bullet and getting the Bergvill that matches your amplifier. I'm assuming you have a M490? Just make sure you get the right ISO harness. This is the one for M490 amps... https://www.bergvillfx.com/products/...96boxster-m490 Now on the other hand, if sound quality is more of a priority with the classic Porsche look, then skip the HI/LO converters needed for units like the Continental and purchase the Blaupunkt that has true pre-amp LINE-LEVEL output via RCA plugs. You'll need the Metra wire harness to connect the YELLOW plug to the RCA pre-amp outputs that feeds the amp. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-txE2BZ...gaAn1LEALw_wcB The Blaupunkt Frankfurt supports direct connection to the black ISO A plug.

Quotes source post: 19330691

Hey... I'm facing the same problem with my Boxster 986. There's no place to secure the radio cage inside the dash after cutting the frame with the Dremmel. What was your solution? Thanks!

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I�m driving now (in a parking lot). Find my recent posts in this thread and I link to my thread where I installed the Blaupunkt Frankfurt. The parts you need are listed there.

Quotes source post: 19518467

I ended up gluing small blocks of wood to the radio, then screwing down into them through the frame. It's a hack, but it worked. Then I just put the whole frame into the dash as a single piece. I will try to find pictures and upload them. I might have done a video too.

Quotes source post: 19494489

I got the software from the member above and it worked great. Well worth the small fee.

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Here it is: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-i-need-2.html edit: Maybe I misunderstood the problem.

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Thanks. I'd love to see what you've done, because I'm kind of stumped about a decent solution. I was hoping not to have to hack it (eg. gluing blocks of wood!), but perhaps that's the only option. Sadocom support has been useless -- absolutely useless. There's no way to secure the installation cage to the radio unit. And then there's no way to secure the cage to the inside of the dashboard. My only other consideration is to flip the OEM metal bracket around to so that it's forward facing and can kind of cradle the unit... somehow (see red arrow in attached pic). Ugh. What a PITA!

Quotes source post: 19518688

I would not flip it around. I'm still searching for pictures but essentially if you hold the radio in place where you want it, inside of the black plastic bracket, visualize where the connections would be. I used small blocks of wood (could have 3D printed something more elegant) and crazy glued them to the radio, then used small screws to drill into the bracket tabs and down into the wood. Now the bracket and radio move as a single unit, and I can still easily remove the radio if needed by removing the bracket. I know others have printed some wedges (I think I saw these on thingiverse). Check the spanish install video posted a few posts up, maybe there are some tips in there.

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That must have been a surprise haha. Glad you could get it back.

Quotes source post: 19518688

I was the one who made the thingiverse wedge, I have actually made an update of it that I will upload when I get back on Monday, the head unit clips into the front plastic frame not the rear metal one. Did you have the double din or did you cut away the single din bracket. Also on mine the metal sprung side clips I did use a flat head screw driver to pull them out a little further when pushing it should just click into place very snug and won't move.

Quotes source post: 19538866

I cut away the singe din bracket. Ordered the double din but it wasn't the right fit for my car. Thanks for making the designs and updates, I'm sure that it will help others. Anyone having random volume surges? I am on a long drive and noticed that here's times where the volume jumps up on its own and I have to lower it.

Can you get me a photo of the single din that you cut away at I can send you the brackets if you can't print them

How do I know if my �99 996 C2 is a MOST or a non-MOST car? It does not have a BOSE system from the factory. The previous owner installed a single-DIN Clarion unit that I�m hoping to update with a Sadocom unit, and I�m wondering how easy or difficult I should expect it to be.

MOST didn't start until '02 or '03. So your '99 is definitely not MOST.

if anyone is planning to go to double din and wants to swap cages with me, please let me know. i went double din but i'm planning to go back to single din and lower console delete and need the inner support that is usually cut out

I had the above headunit in my '85 928. It was great, no issues. I was planning on putting one in my 02 996 Targa with the Bose subwoofer in the passenger footwell, no navigation. I reached out to Crutchfield for a harnes as to not cut the Porsche harness. Their tech said he had a power harness but I would have to rewire all the speakers and best to replace all the speakers as the impedances did not match and it could damage the head unit. I was not aware of this issue.

Hi everyone, I'm looking for some advice on the best Bluetooth integration kit for my 2003 Porsche 996 Carrera. The car still has its original factory radio head unit, which does not have a screen and only supports FM radio.I've come across a few options but would love to hear from those who have experience or knowledge in this area. Here are some of the kits I'm considerin Dension Gateway Lite BTGROM Audio BT3 ​​iSimple Bluetooth Integration Kit USA Spec Bluetooth Integration Kit Bovee Bluetooth Integration Kit My main requirements are:S eamless integration with the original radio.High-quality sound for both music streaming and hands-free calling.Minimal disruption to the car's interior appearance.If anyone has experience with these kits or can recommend others that might be better suited for my needs, I would greatly appreciate your input. Any installation tips or considerations would also be helpful. Thank you in advance

Trim needed for a double-DIN install? Finally ordered the Aliexpress Sadocom unit. I know most people get the Metra 99-9605B kit to move the AC control unit down, but I already have an upper tray. Can I just buy the lower AC surround trim ( https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...23390001C.html ) or is there anything else in the Metra kit that I will need for my install?

Quotes source post: 19586191

There is trim needed around the head unit, but speaking from experience, I'd skip the lower Metra trim. The lower trim for the Metra unit includes a storage pocket attached to it, and the fitment isn't perfect. I preferred to use the Porsche lower trim that you linked.

Thanks for the reply. After some more digging, I found out that installing the Porsche branded PCCM+ would require: 1. Dashboard support frame/trim around the headunit (Part #: 996-552-231-12-01C-OEM) but I could potentially just fabricate the original trim with a Dremel 2. Lower AC surround trim (Part #: 996-552-339-00-01C-OEM), and 3. Retaining bar (Part #: 996-552-653-04-OEM) Can anyone who has installed the Aliexpress/Sadocom headunit confirm whether or not the retaining bar is needed?

Quotes source post: 19481878

How�s the call quality with this? Is the airplay wireless? Any link to purchase?

Quotes source post: 19563266

I have a carbon fiber single din for sale

Please pm me for info and price. All my carbon interior pieces are the same color - no easy way to fix it so will have to match with same.

Is there a recommended Amplifier upgrade that can replace the OEM Amp, mines an early build with no Bose or anything fancy, but I do have 6 speakers and the stock headunit

Quotes source post: 19598847

I used a Soundstream Picasso Nano series amp, have it mounted to factory bracket until I can make something better. It�s small but powerful enough to drive dash+rear Kicker co-ax replacement speakers plus OE door mid/subs. https://soundstream.com/product/pn1-650d/

Quotes source post: 19427876

Does anyone know what harness/connections would be needed to install this in a 2000 C2 Cab with factory HiFi option (M490)?

Quotes source post: 19615889

I think Metra 70-1787 would do the trick. The RCA output of the head unit would be fed to the HiFi amp with the Metra harness. Same hardness I used to install a Sony head unit in my M490 coupe.

Yeah IDK as my harness was �pre-hacked� anyway. The Power Acoustik is really great though, I remain very impressed. It is darn near perfect for my needs.

I was hoping more for a plug and play version. That looks like a buy and hire an installer version.

Quotes source post: 19616148

I have a 2002 with Bose (non-MOST) and as far as I can tell there is no "plug and play" amp option. You would think that its possible to remove the factory amp, drop in an aftermarket amp, and utilize the factory wiring harnesses, but I have researched and it doesn't seem like the option exists. The most straight forward option I have seen is the CAI amp kit that comes with pre-wired harnesses. That still requires running RCA cables back to the head unit and I assume some fiddling with the factory harness at the amp though. Happy to be proven wrong if someone knows something I don't!

Years ago I bought a Bluetooth adapter from Discount Car Stereo for my CDR-220 and the harness they sent was true plug and play. That system still works great. I'm getting ready to do the Heat/AC foam replacement from the cabin and figured I might as well add a modern radio with Car Play while I have everything apart. I'll have to check with them about a solution.

Hello Guys this is my first question on a forum ever I hope this is gonna work but ive seen alot of activitiy to this date so im hopefull. I bought the sadocom Unit from aliexpress for my 2001 Carrera 4 Cabri. so no Bose and no Most as far as ive understood. I tried installing it myself and quickly stumbled opon the display not even turning on. After getting some great and fast responses from Sadocom I got told to switch one Connection at the wiring harness and after it turned on perfectly. Now my problem is I have no sound. After again contacting Sadocom he told me hed send me a new wiring harness even tho im pretty sure thats not the problem. Ive read here alot of solutoins and fixes and feel like my problem probably has already been anserwed somewhere but I cant seem the find that one post helping me out. I have two connectors a black one and a smaller yellow one ( I do not have the brown connector!) thats it, as far as I understood the yellow one is responsible for my Sound not coming out of the speakers. Ive read that jim010 apparently is able to help with my situation. As Ive seen him talk about a certain part that I maybe need to buy too for it to work properly. Any help is appreciated, since I really would like to understand why it doesnt work and why a certain fix would help and not just fix it without knowing what I'm doing. Thanks in advance for the help

I'm looking for the tiniest possible subwoofer (for home use, not car) and stumbled across the PioneerTS-WX0101A, which is only 4.63” x 9” x 2.75”, with a built-in 50-watt amp. I know other "underseat" subs do not fit in the 996, but wonder whether this one might. I thought I'd post it here in case anyone is interested in looking at it further. It can't be a powerhouse at that size, but reviews are good and I'd guess adding one of these (or a pair) would still be a huge bass upgrade for the stock speaker system. The Pioneer unit is not cheap considering how tiny it is ( Amazon Amazon ) at $206 (and it's $279 on Crutchfield!). Oddly, there appears to be a Carrozzeria Pioneer sub-brand that (at a quick glance) looks to be the same sub for $125ish from Japan on Ebay ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/12666574641...Bk9SR76du9m7ZA ) NOTE/DISCLAIMER: I have not tried this sub, and I don't know if it fits under the seat in the 996 -- just posting in case somebody wants to look into it a bit more for the 996. 4:16 in this video shows sub playing (I think this is Pioneer version, not Carrezzeria by Pioneer): You Tube

Hi all, i'm keen for the sadocom unit, whats the canbus box actually do? i've got a 996.2 without MOST. Can you see data on the screen with the CANbus box?

Has anyone purchased the Qualcomm unit with the qled screen? Wondering if it is the one to get.

I am installing one of the Al express PCCM Clones. I have it working for the Radio and the Bluetooth. IMs wife�s car is a 2003 C2 with MOST. I have a most adapter that works so I have sound. The problems I am having are with the display and the USB connections. The display stays on with the key off. The radio/system turns on/off with the ignition key but the display stays on unless i push the on/off button on the radio. I don�t have the illumination of the buttons and the illumination dimming function on the unit. I can get the illumination functions working by running a jumper from the illumination wire for the cigarette lighter to pin 4 on the radio unit. This should be related to the Canbus module. I don�t get any input on the USB connections but the devices (cell phone and/or iPad) charges when it is plugged in to the USB port.Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Mark

Quotes source post: 19728572

I presume you're using a ISO wire harness adapter to connect the wiring of the AliExpress radio to the Porsche's factory wiring, correct? If so, this is a common problem when connected to some 996 and 986 cars. The ISO wire harness adapter that is supplied with the AliExpress radio has the two power lines (12V switched and 12V constant) backwards. Swap the YELLOW and RED 12V+ lines and you should be good to go!

Thanks Bobby. I changed the red and yello wires and now it functions correctly. I did have to connect a jumper from the illumination wire at the cigarette lighter to the orange wire coming out of the re=adio to get the illumination to work. Mark

Quotes source post: 19730596

Great Mark! Glad it worked out for you. Please post back how you like the AliExpress PCCM clones. Overall they've been getting decent reviews for overall quality and I must say ... less problems posted compared to the geniune Porsche PCCM+ units.

Quotes source post: 19730636

Will do. Currently waiting for a MOST decoder (due Friday). The old one was intermittently cutting out.

Installed Pioneer AVH-1440 double din front end and retained the Bose amp and speakers in my 04' Carrera Cab. This model has wired Apple CarPlay and costs about $300 less than the wireless head units. I simply plug in my iPhone and have all the music, GPS and Sirius radio I could want. /X3

I accidentally bought the lowest spec Ali Express head unit and wondered how bad it would be.

To run all the applications this is too low In the future the new updates would need more RAM/ROM Try to send it back and be replaced by a higher specs

Quotes source post: 19757517

is there a minimum / maximum spec that�s required? im looking at this option for my 02 non Bose C4 cabrio. other than the head unit is there anything else that�s needed?

Quotes source post: 19757517

What is the unit to get?

Quotes source post: 19760730

I went for the 64GB + 128

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do you have a link? The biggest I have found is 12gb ram + 256rom

Quotes source post: 19760905

Sorry Tom, my fault I made a mistake This the dealer where I purchased it: My Radio is 8GB + 128GB https://es.aliexpress.com/item/10050...yAdapt=glo2esp

So I went to upgrade my sound system and it quickly turned into more then I expected. My front dash speakers were dry rotted and sounded bad so I replaced with some Focal's. Then my old head unit would crash constantly and it was annoying. I also really wanted wireless apple carplay. I went with one of the PCCM clones off Aliexpress. It did not play well with the factory amp so I replaced it with a Sony XM-GS6DSP amp. The door speakers sure do kick hard when sent good power. I see no need for a sub or to replace the door speakers to get the sound I want. It sounds fantastic. I also am not sure how to make the back lighting come on. I would set it to always be on if I could. Is there an easy fix to this. I read above and didn't see a direct answer. Bottom needs to come in further

You guys have me completely intrigued with these PCCM+ clones, so intrigued that I bought one (with backup camera) and plan to install it over the Christmas break, maybe even do a video on the process. It seems so many people have experienced great results with a minimal amount of trouble compared to the Genuine Porsche PCCM+ - both of which are built in China like most things these days. Seems the PCCM+ is more designed like other aftermarket radios that have standard connectivity that will need to be harnessed (supplied) to the factory connectors unless you're dealing with a scenario were a previous owner cut the factory ISO plugs off. I hope that's not the case with any of you because it will definitely complicate the process. One big problem is the PCCM clones don't come with installation or operation instructions with the exception of a connection illustration. Basically, similar to the PCCM+ from Porsche, you're on your own! You'll need a bit of prerequisite knowledge of installing radio systems. Well, that being said... wish me luck!

I got my replacement MOST adapter and got it installed. Works great now. Tina is very happy with it. Now I need to order more to install in my other cars. I really do like having the volume **** and built in Nav. Install was easy after correcting the issue with switched and unstitched power. IIRC I saw a thread where it said if you connect the red wire (switched power) to the orange wire from the ignition switch the radios will stay on until you remove the key from the switch. I need to check that out. I ended up removing the CANBUS box from the harness because I could not see that it functioned at all and I was trying to reduce the amount of stuff behind the dash.

Quotes source post: 19774221

I know my '03 had CAN bus lines on the radio ISO harness, but not sure what could be read back and forth with the PCCM clone. Probably not needed. I never really cared for stuff being displayed back on the gauge cluster. You don't really need all the "4G" sim and antenna stuff either since most people prefer to pair the radio via BlueTooth to their iPhone and Android phones. My '99 doesn't have CAN bus lines at the radio and so I'm not going to fool with plugging it in. And, my '99 doesn't have blue/black "Reverse" line at the radio harness either and so that's going to mean I'm going to have to remove the center console and tap into the line from the gear shift module.

I purchased the Sadocom headunit (highest trim, with Qualcomm 8GB RAM and 256GB storage) and only after about 2 months it�s already broken. Not sure if I can recommend it, unless mine happens to be a lemon and the seller replaces it. Installation was pretty straight forward, plug and play in my �99 non-Bose, but that�s about the only good thing. You Tube You Tube Contacted the seller and tried both a screen reset and a factory reset, but neither fixed the issue. Waiting to hear back more. Just thought I should share my experience for others considering this headunit.

Quotes source post: 19731075

I got the MOST converter and completed the install. Unit works nicely. Tina is happy that she can plug her IPhone/ipad into one of the USB ports and everything works fine. I ended up deleting the Canbus adapter and just connected the Orange illumination wire from the PCCM Clone to the illumination line to the cigarette lighter to get the radio buttons to illuminate and the screen to dim when the lights are on. The PCCM Clones are made to fit the 996.2 better than the 996.1 (the opening is larger on the .2 cars). The only gripe I have is that the radio reception does not have as much range as the stock radio before I hear static on the radio. However, having volume **** and Nav is worth it. I will buy several more for my other cars.

Quotes source post: 19691182

I purchased the Qualcomm unit with QLED from Sadocom, and 2 months in it's already broken on me (see my recent post where I uploaded a video). Seller is asking me to send the broken one back for replacement, but given how expensive the return shipping would be I'm not sure what I'll do. Would hate to spend extra $$ on top of purchasing the most expensive trim, worried it'll break again down the road. Not sure if I can recommend the headunit, although plenty of others seem to have had a good experience so far. Just my 2c.

Quotes source post: 19793393

Hey Mark. No big loss on removing the CAN BUS decoder. Porsche calls the two CAN Pin1 and Pin2 signals on the C1 Socket "Comfort CAN" because the original PCM would only display non-critical information like AC settings, ambient temp, etc. as well as send radio data (station and song) back to the gauge cluster. One important thing that it does handle is the reverse trigger. Remember the 996 did have an option for parking sensors from the factory. When the car was in reverse, the CAN BUS would tell the radio music to mute and transmit beeps over the sound system. Now, if you ever want to install a backup camera to the PCCM clone, then you either need to connect the PINK cable from the PCCM clone to the Blue/Black line ( located on the OEM ISO connector) or reinstall the CAN BUS decoder. Either way, it should work.

thanks Bobby

Quotes source post: 19342135

@Sixliner6 How did you get it to sit flush on the top and bottom. Mine like all of the other I have seen is about 1/8" proud of the frame edge. My surround was already modified to fit a 2 DIN head unit. It looks like I could trim the remaining bit in the upper corners, but the lower inner edge is glued/welded to the frame and spans the entire opening. I think I would have to use a dremel to route it out but at a set depth. I'm surprised that the manufacturer didn't account for the stock frame by making the bezel on the unit 1/8" less deep.

@Tom Loder , I did do some extra trimming on the bezel to make it fit better. I cut a good bit of plastic and was tweaked it as needed. I also screwed the frame into the head unit. I do have an issue with the stereo itself, it disconnects from CarPlay after two car starts and I have to system reset it to make it work. I have contacted Sadocom and they've tried to help but nothing has rectified the issue. I think I may need to buy another one. I do not think this is related to the small screws I used to attach it though.

Thanks @Sixliner6 ! I busted out the dremel and now I think it fits nearly perfect. I am having trouble with the supplied wiring harness and "instructions". For those who installed the Sadocomm unit in a 996.1 with 6 speakers and factory amplifier maybe you could help me sort me out. Currently I can turn the unit on and off with the key. Button illumination with the headlight switch is not working. I have sound coming from all 6 speakers, but my fader is not working because I am only using the one pre-out to an aftermarket amp. I have read about the LOC solution for that but I will cross that bridge if I need to later. My unit came with multiple harness versions that connect the factory wiring harness to the head unit. I used the one without the CAN-BUS dongle. It terminates at the head unit with a black connector. From that black connector, there are three white sub-harnesses. Image 1 One fits in the white connector on the far right (1) of head unit, one small one (2) with a blue and white wire fits into the 4th slot from the left. The blue and white wires go to the third white connector (3 that doesn't seem to plug in anywhere. (image 1) Image 2 There are also two black 2 pin connectors, one with a red and white wire, another with green and black. There is a corresponding green/black connector that it fits into, but no mate for the red/white. Do I need either of these? Image 3 I have a KEY 1 (orange), KEY 2 (brown), a red ACC wire that I'm not sure what to connect them to. None of these are connected, and the unit functions except for button illumination. ​​​​​​​

Quotes source post: 19820425

Well to start, the ACC is the 'key on' wire that turns the unit on and off with the key. It needs to be connected. If the key now turns head unit on/off, you are powering up with the 'constant + power' wire, thats wrong. This will cause the unit to reset every time its turned on/off. Unit needs constant power on to keep clock/lighting/etc where you've set it, and needs the key on wire(ACC) to turn off/on. So, get a volt meter and test what wire is hot and stays hot when key is out of ignition switch. That wire connects to the current wire you're now using to power on which is the constant power + wire . ACC wire will connect to the wire that only gets voltage when the key is turned on. Test for that also. There is only 1 wire coming from the car that stays hot with key out, you now know where that goes. Now test all the other wires and see what wire powers on when key is turned on, connect that to ACC. Thats a start for you...

I'm sorry I was mistaken. It's not the red ACC line. It is 18AWG red long wire that was twist-tied in a bundle. It doesn't have a label.

Quotes source post: 19820993

The RED bundle of cable is Switched 12V+. If you're not using the backup camera, then you don't need it. See below for more details.

Quotes source posts: 19820425, 19820425, 19820425

The 16pin white connector (Ref #3) is for the CAN BUS decoded which does NOT apply to your '99 Carrera. The PINK wire is unplugged and connected to the car's BL/BK wire for reverse trigger when using a backup camera. If you have a post-03 car with CAN BUS at the radio level, then reverse trigger is handled by the CAN BUS decoded. Therefore, in those cases, the PINK wire remains connected to the CAN BUS decoder. YES! The RED/WHITE (Ref - blue arrow) is the connected (i.e. looped) to the GREEN/BLACK wire (Ref Green Arrow) that feeds the ISO wire harness on the C1 socket. On later cars, GREEN/BLACK line (ref YELLOW arrow) remains connected together and feeds the 16 pin white connector on the CAN BUS decoder. This loop is necessary to give you 4 channel LINE LEVEL audio feeding the amp via the C1 YELLOW ISO plug. Leave the GREEN/BLACK line that feeds the PCCM clone's CAN BUS connector unplugged. (YELLOW arrow) This red bundle (ref Green arrow) of cable serves two purposes - 1.) You feed 12V+ switched if the car doesn't supply 12V+ normally at the ACC line (PIN #7) on the ISO A connector. 2.) If you car does supply switched 12V+ on PIN7 of the ISO plug, then you can either tape the either and ignore it OR use it for other accessories that need 12V+ switched such the backup camera. KEY1 and KEY2 do NOT apply to your car and so leave them untouched and capped. They connect to steering angle sensors on later cars.

A better shot of the loop. Hope that helps!

Quotes source post: 19821065

thanks, I did confirm the red bundle is 12v+. I do plan to use a backup camera that has a red wire and yellow rca plug. I connected the red 12+ to the back up camera, and I have the two pink wires connected but it doesn�t come on when I put the car in reverse.

Quotes source post: 19821212

The PINK "REVERSE" wire is ONLY connected to the other PINK line when using the CAN BUS decoder which does NOT apply to your car. You must locate the car's BL/BK reverse line and run a cable from the PINK line coming from the radio to the car's reverse signal that is found on the BL/BK line in the car. On the 99 model, it usually located at the immobilizer.

Quotes source post: 19427876

Which miniamp are you running? I�m looking for a compact option for my 996.1. I have a powered sub and amp I already wired in and have been using the internal amp on my Continental but I�m fed up with the issues and limitations with this head unit. I�ll be going with the single DIN CarPlay unit you posted but the 17w RMS per channel won�t be enough for the speakers I�ve put in. If anyone else has miniamp recommendations please let me know. The more compact the better!

Quotes source post: 19823009

Ive used the alpine 445 in a couple cars, great amp, fits in stock location

Quotes source post: 19821882

I did get the Illumination working by scavenging an lead with a pin from the old Metra harness. Still no luck with the reverse camera. I tried to wire it as it was with the old head unit, connecting a black wire, that was formerly connected to the reverse output from the old head unit, to the pink wire of the new head unit. I'm going to wire the old unit back in and see if that still works or something got disconnected in the process. Is there a way to just view the camera feed without having to be in reverse to test that it's working? While out on a test drive I discovered there is a speed limit alert set somewhere and it would interrupt the music to tell me I was exceeding the posted limits. I couldn't find a specific setting for GPS/Speed limit warning. I would like to disable this "feature".

Quotes source post: 19823233

The camera can be tested in isolation, but it depends on if your monitor will accept an AHD 1080 feed via the composite RCA connector. Most old monitors will accept CVBS which is basically composite analog - standard definition. That being said, using the unit can be used to test, but I feel tested it in isolation first is the best method. That way, you rule out any problematic cameras. The illumination on the PCCM Clone wire should be connected to the illumination signal on the car so that if you change the brightness, it adjusts along with the other buttons. That is usually handled on Pin6 of the car's ISO Connector A. Curious, did you retail ALL factory ISO connectors? or, did you cut them off?

I've bought the Sadocom recent recently and found the time to install it today. Everything is working fine, apart from the volume ****. When turning the **** clockwise (volume up), the volume will jitter. Also: when I hover my finger over the physical buttons next to the **** (home etc), the volume reduces in a jittery fashion. Anyone else had this problem?

Rennvision just posted a series of videos on their install of a PCCM clone�didn�t hear/see if it is/was a Sadocom unit https://youtube.com/@rennvisionbytheknowledgegruppe

Quotes source post: 19835861

It's not a Sadocom unit. It was purchased from Heregoes. Qualcomm SnapDragon - 8GB RAM/256 GB ROM, Android 12, Ver 5 BlueTooth, backup camera... etc. etc.

I purchased a Sadocom unit for my 2003 996. It did come with the blue MOST interface box and a CANBUS interface. I am in a long discussion with them about the CANBUS interface as it does not work to supply 12v switched power, or illumination or reverse information or parking brake. IE - it seems to do absolutely nothing. I do know to use the cigarette lighter to get illumination connection, and I think reverse is in the factory harness. Not really interested in the parking brake signal. I also know about the phone prep connector in the center console - have used it for a couple other items. But I wanted real RAP until key is removed, not the switched power in the console area. I asked Rod at CAI-STORE.COM and he pointed me to this article on double din install - https://cai-store.com/pages/911-boxs...din-conversion In the article is the following - on how to retain full RAP (Retained Accessory Power) until the key is removed. This wire has 12v on it while the ignition is on, and retains it until the key is removed. Here is the pertinent info from the link: Red Key-In Accessory This wire must be run directly to the ignition switch. Remove the heater duct under the driver's side of the dash. This duct section is easily removed, lie on the driver floor and slide the duct toward the left side of the car to disengage the inboard end-then slide it toward the middle of the car to disengage the outboard end where it connects to the short elbow leading to the left corner dash vent. This will allow better visibility and access. If you look at the back side of the ignition switch from under the dash you will find a double jacketed Orange wire. Tap into this Orange wire for accessory. This circuit will show 12 volts whenever the key is turned on and keeps power until the key is removed from the ignition cylinder. This connection has been lengthened to reach from the radio location to the ignition switch. A 5 amp fuse and holder has been pre-installed for you. Below: the back side of the ignition switch. Looking up from under the dash. -Tom

I installed one of the PCCM clones in my wife�s car. I like the unit but I find the radio reception to be poor. It does not hold the signal well. It seems to have a very short range, much shorter than the original CDR23 radio that was original to the car. Does anyone have a recommendation for an antenna booster to improve the radio reception? Thanks.

So many better options these days, especially when wireless carplay/ android auto units can be plugged into many of the cheaper units to easily upgrade. I have a cheap Nakamichi head unit with one of these attached and it works really well.

Quotes source post: 19861645

The 996 has a antenna amplifier from the factory. It is my understanding it does not work very well. My 99 C2 won't get any AM stations at all. The FM is tolerable but not as good as other cars. This is with the original CDR2210 and an Alpine. There is a thread or two about this in here somewhere.

As more competition for radio frequencies increases so does the need to police the frequencies. This is where the FCC comes in and requires stations to reduce power in order to prevent signals from overpowering another station's signal that is close in frequency. I worked in a station right out of college and at night we had to reduce power on our AM broadcast because of the Skywave phenomena. FM is line of sight and mostly plagued by obstacles like tall buildings, mountains, etc. This is why it's important to broadcast at a strong FM power signal and have the transmitter as high as possible. And why broadcasters (and Cell phone companies) insist on putting transmitting antennas on mountains and towers when you get into the FM band or higher. Now, IMHO when it comes to radio receivers, you're only as good as the weakest link. That weak link could be a "weak signal" from your favorite station, poor receiver with limited or no noise filtering, or low quality antenna. Personally, I think the Porsche 996 suffers from mostly a poor antenna. Many manufacturers have long moved away from internal-windshield antennas like what you'll find in our 996 cars. Heck, my old 1997 Ford F150 with it's original radio/cassette receiver picks up better than any of my Porsches. But we've seen a huge drop in FM signal levels across the board over the past 10-15 years in my area. Therefore, the need for better antennas (with booster) as well as better receivers is a must. So far my "PCCM clone" Android radio does as good as my CDR-220, but less than my Alpine in regards to FM reception. The Alpine did the best out of all my aftermarket radios. The CDR-40 with BOSE was a pretty good factory radio, but basic by today's standard even though it was a 2008 model. So far the most annoying thing about the Android is that any notification from my iPhone interrupts my radio. This is a new problem when connecting to CarPlay via Bluetooth. I guess I could pause notifications or find a menu option in the radio to turn off.

Wondering if anyone has permanently mounted a usb port and connected it to the provided PCCM+ clone USB? similar to the below picture?

couple more question since I'm actually installing now. and @ZuffenZeus you seem to be super knowledgeable I have a 4 channel amp (2 sets of RCA's), do i need to run a splitter off of the two "audio out" from the headunit? i'm not seeing any other preamps. what are the "right" and :left" rca's coming out of the large black harness? factory amp? I figured out that you only need to use the left or right channel for the subs so i can use that single sub preamp output. I'd like to get illumination when the headlights turn on. Where are grabbing the orange wire from? I see an empty space between the yellow and black to mate it to the cars harness so i think i have that side figured out.

Quotes source post: 19882801

See images I created for you. I assume you're working with a pre-MOST car? The PCCM clone's orange wire that handle illumination goes into the radio from the ISO wire harness. (SEE PICTURE 1) The PCCM Clone's orange line connects from the radio's ISO bundle to the CanBus decoder. You'll need to tap into that wire and connect it to pin#6 on the PCCM clone's ISO socket. Unfortunately, the PCCM clone's ISO wire harness adapter does NOT have a line for pin#6 on SOCKET A. Therefore, you'll need to add pin to the ISO Socket A on the PCCM clone's wire harness OR tap directly into the illumination line from the car. The car's illumination line is normally blue/gray and as stated, connects to PIN#6 on factory ISO A plug. (see picture 2)

Thanks for the quick response. much appreciated. so the orange wire the the headunit to the white canbus connect should be removed from the white canbus connector and the inserted into #6? This is a 1999 pre-most car

Quotes source post: 19883520

That is correct. What I did was cut the orange line from the CanBus plug (see pic 1) and pinned it and connected it to PIN#6 on the PCCM clone's SOCKET A - ISO wire harness. (Make sure the orange line is connected from the PCCM Clone RADIO to ISO plug A pin#6, NOT from the CanBus decoder connector.) *See Picture #3 below!

I'm in the same boat, my illumination only comes on during certain times when set to "time" and never when set to the car. Does this mean I can just connect the orange wire coming from the headunit to the blue/gray wire off the factory plug. I am not sure how to insert a wire into a pin.

Quotes source post: 19883740

If you have a pre-MOST car (99-2002), then YES, this is how it works. Pinning lines is the way to go. I always encourage people to NOT cut off the factory wiring ISO plugs if all possible. Use a harness. The kits are cheap for pinning ISO cables. Amazon Amazon

again, thank you. I had some doubts because your orange wire seems to be the same gauge as the yellow and black where mine is a few sizes smaller. I'll get that pinning kit and get to work.

If i don't need the canbus, can I de-pin that harness from the black connector in the back of the HU and get rid of it all together? any negatives? Just looking to clean things up.

I just completed my install of a Sadocom UIS7862 8G/128GB head unit into my 2003 C2 with CDR-23/Bose. For MY2003, so far I can find zero usage for the CAN box. The primary functions of the box is to supply switched 12V, illumination trigger, reverse trigger and brake trigger - none of which work. So I, like others, had to wire switched 12V to the unit, illumination and reverse trigger. Reverse trigger is in the factory harness as others have mentioned, pin 4. I took a pin from the 2nd supplied harness, populated pin 4 in the harness connector I was using and connected to the reverse trigger wire from the CAN box. Also, since switched 12V is not there, I ran a tap from fuse E1 beside the fuse panel over to the head unit and connected it to the white wire in the harness that goes to pin 5 (power antenna). Why that way? Simple - the way they wire their connectors to the actual radio connector, they tie the antenna output to switched 12V supplied by the useless CAN box vs connecting it to the actual radio antenna output. So this way I don't have to have a separate connector going to the radio. And why fuse E1 vs the phone pre-wire connector in the console - I wanted full RAP (retained accessory power) until the key is removed - and fuse E1 supplies that - same as the orange connector on the ignition switch - it was just easier for me to tap on the fused side of E1 than to tap at the ignition switch plug. For illumination trigger, I tapped into the cigarette lighter illumination wire as all others have done. I did fight with Sadocom support about the CAN box - wanting to get it to actually work - to no avail. I also had them include an internal sensor TPMS USB adapter. I have it installed, plugged into one of the USB ports. Installed the software via the other USB port, and it does see the TPMS sensors, reports as low pressure as I have not installed them yet and shows ambient temp. For installing the head unit - I used Marshcroft's mounting shims ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6638973 ), gluing them to the double din Porsche bracket - which then allows the head unit to clip in as you would expect it to. Makes for a very nice snug centered fit. Here is a picture showing the unit in use. Soon I will work on boot animation and background images. -Tom 2003 C2

Quotes source post: 19892838

Dear Tom Thanks so much for sharing all of this! I have a question and not sure if you would be able to help me on that... my "chinese radio" is a 8GB + 128GB model I installed a small modification using a pendrive (someone sold me an update with very nice desktop picture with Porsche logo and more simple icons design. The problem was I lost the equalizer (I got it the icon) But It's not working, not displayed I wonder where to find the Factory Firmware or the last Android Update to do a Factory Restart or upgrading the radio software

@juankimalo - was your update from MattDevoCustoms by chance? Or someone else? You probably need to discuss with the person you got your update from. -Tom

Quotes source post: 19894221

I purchased it to a Chinese seller on Aliexpress As I modified some things I think I have no support anymore That's why I am searching a firmware

I know this has been a while for you, but I'm curious what you did/used to fabricate the mounting blocks for yours? My Aliexpress/Sadocom only has one guide/metal clip on the side (which flexes and is supposed to act like a clip to hold it in), but when I slide the stereo into the horseshoe, it's like 3+mm away from holding things in place. I'm also not getting sound, but that's another fun challenge I'm facing... :-(

Quotes source post: 19894890

From my post above - this is what I used: For installing the head unit - I used Marshcroft's mounting shims ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6638973 ), gluing them to the double din Porsche bracket - which then allows the head unit to clip in as you would expect it to. Makes for a very nice snug centered fit. -Tom

Since my install a little over a week ago, I have been trying different launchers, AGAMA, Car Launcher (free version) and Nova. AGAMA - you cannot upgrade to the PRO version as they are Russian and cannot accept money from any US banks or from Google Play. I have set boot animation to a Porsche theme, set the wallpaper to the Porsche crest, etc. Have also installed NAVRADIO (free version) to replace the built-in radio tuner app. So far, all has been good until today. Sunday I finally took the car for a spin, drove for about 30 minutes. Parked in the garage when done. Today I go out to tweak the Nova launcher some, and when I turn the key on - the SADOCOM head unit boots - not awakens from sleep. I thought that was odd. Note - in the garage - I don't lock the car - but it is always on a trickle charger/maintainer. When the head unit finished boot, there was no sound. Launched radio - nothing, launched MP3 player, no sound. Hit the physical home button, nothing - it did not go home. The volume button did nothing (no sliding scale showed on screen). Turned ignition off, pulled key, re-inserted key, turned on, head unit comes up normally - still no sound. I had seen similar (no sound) with the CDR-23/bose - and to solve that was a restart of the CDR-23/bose AMP via closing door and locking car. Tried that - still no sound. With the head unit on - I pulled fuse D8 - which per the wiring diagram supplies 12v constant to the radio wiring - the unit did not shut down, reinstalled D8. I pulled E1 - where I get 12v switched from, and down the unit went. Re-installed E1 - it rebooted and again had sound - very odd. Also - when the head unit was in it's silent/no-sound state - tried to reboot it via the status bar pull down menu. It asked if I wanted to reboot - I replied ok/sure (whatever it asks) and it would not reboot. Again - odd. Anyone have any thoughts or similar occurences? -Tom 2003 C2

In the middle of installing one of these units. Car is a 03/MOST set up. I see lots of information on the non-MOST. Working on installing the backup camera wiring. The theories and directions I have found are all over the place. Will focus on the MOST set up. The camera wiring is self explanatory at the camera end. At the head unit, what do you do with the power/red wire?? Is it powered by the accessory/switched 12volt supply or does it need to be connected to the blue/black wire at the ISO plug? I do have power at that wire when put in reverse. I have also seen where the camera needs to be connected to the 12volt switched and that the head unit will handle having the image come up on the screen. Being powered, there is no lag. I have looked everywhere to solve this on the MOST car and nothing definitive. Also getting the illumination connected has been an exercise. 98-2002 cars have it in the ISO plug, #6 pin. MOST cars it is supposed to be handled with the CANBUS, have not seen that work for anyone yet and everyone just taps off of the lighter wire. Grrrrr

Quotes source post: 19906288

Tom, found this in another thread, copied and pasted here for you. Maybe something to look at. I know someone else was complaining about very similar problems as yours. Food for thought...Editing-I think this was for a Pre-MOST car fyi. If so, this is a common problem when connected to some 996 and 986 cars. The ISO wire harness adapter that is supplied with the AliExpress radio has the two power lines (12V switched and 12V constant) backwards.

Quotes source post: 19909329

I have an �03 HiFi C2 Cabriolet, I used 12v switched for the backup camera, no lag, and can switch to the camera while driving since it�s not tied to Reverse switch. For illumination I used the power port/cigarette lighter. FWIW, I also bypassed MOST with a new amp and RCAs from HU to amp. This is with an ATOTO S8, not a PCCM+ clone, as I did this 2+ years ago.

Quotes source post: 19909343

Yeah - I had seen that too - and I verified they were not switched in the ISO wire harness that came with my unit. My issue has not repeated - with multiple attempts. -Tom

Quotes source post: 19909448

Thanks, going to wire it up first before putting everything in dash and make sure it all works. Thanks for the confirmation on wiring

Quotes source post: 19909448

Any tips on activating the rear camera without putting in reverse? I have hooked it all up and I get the LED lights around the camera to come on, but putting in reverse I get nothing and can't find a manual activation. Thanks!

I'm replacing my 2002 C4s's CDR220 with a Power Acoustik CP71w. I'm pinnning an ISO connector on the power acoustik harness, though I also have a Metra 70-1787 harness for reference. I've heard that the constant 12v line (red) and the switched line (yellow) have to be swapped. Per the image below, in plug A, pin 7 should be swiched (yellow) and pin 4 should be 12v battery (red), which is how it is in the metra harness. Should I pin the power acoustik harness the same way or swap the two out? EDIT: Disregard. I had mixed up the colors. Red is 12v switched and yellow is 12v constant. The metra harness has it reversed -- pin 4 is red (switched) and pin 7 is yellow (constant) when it should be the other way around.

Quotes source post: 19918878

What I read is that it is totally happenstance that you will get a harness with the power/switched power in the wrong spot in the harness. You just need to verify that yours is correct.

Quotes source post: 19909883

I honestly don�t recall much more than I posted, if I switch to the camera on my HU (ATOTO S8) its just on (as long as car is running or key switched on), and when going into reverse HU automatically switches to camera. The only thing I did differently from most install guides was used switched power instead of power off of reverse lights. I will admit that occasionally when putting in reverse the camera doesn�t come on, but I attribute that to the ~$5 camera I�m using�power off HU/power on and it works.

Another question for the Sadocom head unit in a 2003 C2 with CDR-23 Bose/MOST. I have 12V constant supplied thru the factory harness, and 12V switched supplied as well to the appropriate pin on the head-unit plug. Here is the question - is the factory 12V constant supply - controlled by the PCM? IE - when the car goes to sleep after a few days - is the 12V constant supply in the factory harness disconnected from the battery supply. What I am seeing is, after a few days, the Sadocom unit is booting with key on, vs awakening - which indicates the 12V constant supply was cut. Is this "normal"? -Tom

Quotes source post: 19934819

Tom, I don't know the answer, but maybe a led test light connected(low amperage draw) connected to that yellow wire and monitored would help with the answer. Just a thought

Quotes source post: 19934819

Tom, I don't know the answer, but maybe a led test light connected(low amperage draw) connected to that yellow wire and monitored would help with the answer. Just a thought. Not very PC literate, is there a problem with the booting up while off?

The sadocom goes to sleep after a few days by itself, and you get the android screen on startup, this is all in the sadocom unit. -Eric

Has anyone actually installed the cameras for the 360 view? Interested to see install pics, etc if so. Thanks

..

Quotes source post: 19909883

There is no manual activation, but this video does cover the installation and wiring of the reverse camera. I had the same question and issue as you. I eventually figured out which wire to connect based on the video and now it works great. I am trying to get rid of the parking lines or at least be able to adjust them, but I think I need to remove the headunit and snip a wire on the back of the reverse camera harness. You Tube

I just purchased a head unit, harness and back up camera set from Crutchfield. I did pay the extra $27 for them to configure my harness so it is plug and play. I am hoping it is that easy to do.

I'm looking at some options that work through an aftermarket rear view mirror. This is becoming more common on some newer cars where the rear view mirror has a built in screen and can swap between that and regular mirror. Seems like a good solution. I haven't chosen one but here is one example: Amazon Amazon There's also options that include a front facing camera.

I�d like to use the factory GPS antenna for the PCCM clone rather than the separate GPS antenna. However the SMA connector are different sizes. Anyone know what size adapter is needed to make this work?

I am needing help or ideas for the solution. I have a 99 996 Cab with the navigation system. I ordered a new stereo the double din from crutchfield and I used their harness service to make me a plug and play harness as I am not the most skilled with electronics. I removed the navigation system and the car is a few hours away. I plugged in the harness, the unit powers up, but there is no sound coming out of the speakers. They worked fine before replacing the unit. Does the navigation unit play a part in power for the speakers? We moved the head unit to a 2000 boxster and it worked just fine. Suddlenly crutchfield has not been very helpful. What am I missing? What is the role of the nav system in powering up the speakers? Thanks in advance for any help. I did not have a DSP controller in the car. We have a signal out from the head unit, we wired a speaker directly and we can something, there is power to the amp. Just no sound. We are stumped. Crutchfield is stumped.

Quotes source post: 19996812

I'm guessing that since you have the navigation system, you likely had the amplified stereo option too. In that case, there would be an amplifier in the frunk. I'd hazard a guess that your harness isn't feeding to the amplifier (i.e. pre-amp RCA output) but using speaker outputs. Post a picture of your harness and your frunk.

Thank you. I will try to post some pictures, and I can't get to the car just now. I do have the amp in the frunk and it has power. I did hear back from Crutchfield and they are saying the DSP built in to the original head unit. And to try plugging in the original connections back to the radio as a test. This a picture of the harness Crutchfield configured.

This connects to the back of the original head unit. It looks like the DSP was in the original head unit?

I'm sure J @HoustonCgrBkr will explain the details, but I got it to work for him. The core issue had to do with the grounding of the DSP M680 amplifier. I'll say that I don't have any problem helping nice people on this forum like J. He was kind and grateful.

Thanks again to @ZuffenZeus for the help. Crutchfiled was baffled. ZuffenZeus shared the following and it was the key to getting it to work " Ahhh... you got the PCM and DSP amp. I don't have time to write everything, but you'll need to ground the DSP amp for it to work. I believe it's pin#17. Same thing happens when using the new PCCM+ with the M680 DSP amplifier. Without it being grounded, the amp is "blind" to the pre-amp LINE LEVEL sound feed. The Socket C BLUE and GREEN ISO plugs as well as the two 26 pin plugs are no longer needed with the aftermarket radio. That means no CD changer. Not supported. You'll use the YELLOW C1 ISO plug for outputting pre-amp audio to the amp and the BLACK ISO plug A is used for switched power/grounding, amp trigger, and illumination, etc. Again, the DSP amp will need to be grounded. That's the best I can offer." He provided some pictures that helped as well. But grounding the AMP did the trick. I hope this is helpful to others who are in the same boat. I will share some pictures a bit later.

Got these Jehnert door builds. Removed the hertz 6.5" subs.

Got 15 years out of these. But the mdf gets wet and retains moisture.

Trying to figure out how to find @Samer but not figuring it out since i'm a dumbdumb it seems

Thinking same. Or do nothing and keep my top of the line Kenwood double din.... sigh.

Quotes source post: 19939013

Yes. The hardest bit is running wires into the door cards as porsche use connectors either side. I've bought the calibration cloth and had a go at auto stitching, but i think i need something flatter than a stone drive and my front cam points up a bit so sees my house windows first. I've done a manual stitch but need to spend a bit more time on it, it's not Mercedes quality but does work. Front and Rear wire was easy enough as i already had a rear cam so used that to pull it through and have an amp up front so I've pulled loads into the frunk. I have Bose ripped out so 3 way crossovers feed my dash and door and coaxials in rear cards, with subs on parcel shelf. The 3070A has all 3 pre amps so I've got full system control. Cam wire Camera wire to door Wires to front Front grommet out to cam Hertz amp powering all speakers 3 way crossovers next to spare

Where did you get your PORSCHE logo for the radio?

Quotes source post: 20058024

https://ebay.us/m/NyG7cJ

Calibration attempt:

Bummer they do not ship to USA

New issue with my Sadocom unit for my 996.2 - 2003 BOSE with blue MOST box. If the car is offline long enough the headunit will completely power down (normal). Upon inserting the key and turning on, the headunit boots (normal) and all works correctly has sound). If I then turn off the ignition and remove the key, the unit shuts off as normal. Here is where the new issue comes in. Re-insert the key and turn on, the unit immediately comes to life, shows that it is playing music (song from the internal drive) but there is no sound. Also the volume **** does not work (no display on the screen of volume increase) and the other physical buttons do not work. If I turn the key off, the unit stays on as normal and within a second or two, sound starts. Then I can turn key back on and the unit continues to have sound and the buttons work. I know...odd. Anyone have any thoughts? -Tom

Quotes source post: 20000472

@ZuffenZeus @HoustonCgrBkr OMG, this is EXACTLY where I am. I've been jealous of everyone getting their units set up with so much ease, and here I am, bone stock car, having issues. I kept seeing pics of ONLY the yellow ISO being used and I thought there might be something to that. As well as the 26 pin plugs not being mentioned anywhere. Anyway, can either of you please (please!) give me any more details on how to do this? I can remove the green and blue ISOs, easy enough. What else, exactly? Thank you so much in advance, especially @ZuffenZeus . I have read some VERY long threads/posts all to no avail. I feel so close now!

I'm about to replace the door speakers with mid-bass and enclosures from the CAI-Store. Will I need to disconnect the battery before removing the interior door panel so as not to affect the air bag?

No, the airbag is separate unit from the door panel. You can remove the panel to fully access the door speaker without needing to disconnect the airbag.

Quotes source post: 20164229

IMO, no. You are not disconnecting the airbag or connectors in any way - you are undoing latch, door led, and door convenience light connector.

Saw yours first on the forum. Immediately purchased as I needed single DIN Carplay if I was going to use it with the GT3 delete. PO installed an aftermarket amp. No DSP or anything. I upgraded speakers front and rear (not doors or sub). Running all of them off the amp from the Power Acoustik signal. Not an expert in any way, but I am not hearing any distortion at all. Installed everything myself. Thanks for the original post. @ sublm8

Anybody have a trick to eliminate alternator noise from speakers? Everything is grounded to the battery.

Quotes source post: 20264367

i had a terrible whine that i chased. Turned out to be a pre-amp lead from the head unit to the amplifier. I looked carefully at the lead i changed and couldn't see any cuts or exposed cord. So try disconnecting each speaker wire in turn from the HU to see if you can stop the whine. All my earth's were fine.

Quotes source post: 20264367

I also struggled with this. with my car I upgraded the head unit first, stock speakers and amp, no issue. I then upgraded amps and speakers, and used the factory pre-amp wiring- basically took the frunk factory connectors and added rca tails. horrible whine. I ran separate ground for the head unit (harness uses factory ground), tried half a dozen ground loop isolators, re-ran power wiring, etc., etc� i ended up having to run separate component from the head unit to eliminate the problem. I�m not sure what magic the factory amp pulls but it was not tolerable without running a separate source.

Quotes source post: 20267151

it is always advisable to separate power and signal leads. Very easy to get crosstalk otherwise. Ground loops is also a major cause. If all else fails, try an LC circuit on the power line (choke and capacitor). Back in the day we had to literally wrap the radio in about 20 feet of aluminum foil for every F150 install to prevent the tape deck from picking up engine noise.

Quotes source post: 20267213

Absolutely. I've done systems in every vehicle I've had, and it's a principle I've tried to adhere to. However, the FACTORY wiring harness for the frunk amp bundles the power, source, and output into adjacent wiring and connectors. I was hopeful that the run would work with an aftermarket amp if it was sufficient for the factory - shame it seems. My real issue (I have a 986, don't oust me!) is that i also installed the rear storage cubby speakers in my car, and in the factory config the head unit built-in amp drives those. The Aliexpress carplay unit has that amp, but it is woefully underpowered. I'll be upgrading to a 6 channel amp in the frunk I think and also running the amplified wires through the firewall to get balance back.

@PV996 , is that a leather stitched console delete I spy, any other photos of it? Looks awesome.

Quotes source post: 19427876

I recently installed th is unit in my early 996 non Bose car and it works and sounds very good. I just wanted to add to the thread for others that are considering the Acoustik unit. It fits flush as seen in the pics. I was also able to install it without cutting or changing anything in the car which was important to me. I can easily remove the acoustik and plug the original unit right back in for originality. really impressive unit for $150 bucks.

Quotes source post: 20267225

I will get some decent pictures and post them.

Quotes source post: 20277489

Is there still no almost-OEM looking single-din unit? So many double-din knockoffs, but can't find anything that looks decent at single.

What HVAC controller is this? The right display is different from stock.

I am impressed with the Power Acoustik CP-71w Single DIN installs I have recently seen here on this post. Has anyone here successfully installed one of these units in a 2002 996 Cab with the factory BOSE speakers and amplifier set up? Thanks, Jeff

Quotes source post: 20344857

My 2001 Cab has that HVAC unit.

Hi all, I have an early (11/1997) 996 with CR-21 radio unit and Nokia amp. I've now bought a single din carplay unit with volume ****. The issue is that is has a 16-pin connector and I don't know how to connect it to the mini iso connectors of my 996. I've bought an iso to 16-pin adapter, but this only gives power and no sound. I don't want to cut and reconnect cables just so I can revert to the OEM unit if I want to. Anyone who knows if its possible to work with an adapter and if so, can you give me a source please? Thanks!

Quotes source post: 20443361

I'd guess the Nokia amp expects a low-level input, not speaker-level input. The harness for the headunit is wired expecting to drive the speakers directly, which aren't connect in your case -- the speakers are wired to the amp. So you need to get the proper low-level input from the headunit to the Nokia amp -- which is on that other yellow/blue/green connector. Did your new head unit come with any additional connectors with RCA plugs on them?

Quotes source post: 19277053

I know this is an old post but hoping you see this.. Did you have to glue the tweeters or did the original, 3 prong brackets hold it in there? That how it appears in your picture but cant tell if glued also. I am about to order these and hoping it just clips in.

I used a 2-compound special glue for that purpose The prong are not enough to fix it

Quotes source post: 20473460

Wishful thinking... Thank you for the response..

Quotes source post: 19999690

I am running into the same issue on my 2001 911 with the Harman Amp and the old PCM 1.0 Navigation. Power to the unit but the amp does not seem to be getting it's ground. Can you relate to me how you fed the ground to the amp to make it work? EDIT******After looking at the recommendations to ground pin 17 on the amp, I went a step further and found pin 17 wire is pin 14 wire in the blue plug that plugged into the rear of the PCM 1.0. Grounded that out and it fires up and works perfectly.