37 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHRough Idle on Start Up
Leading reported evidence
Clean i'll see how it starts in the morning
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
MAF is cleaned, I'll see how it starts in the morning.
Leading evidence: 'Clean i'll see how it starts in the morning' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check oilk fill tube' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
check the oilk fill tube for cracks AND the oil fill cap (loose, bad o'ring)
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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37 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Lately my car has had a rough idle on start up.
Not always and not when its warm.
A few times when it happened the check engine light came on and went off in a day or so.
This is a very rough irratic idle. It's even hard to pump the gas to get the revs up when it's happening, I can but it's difficult.
My car has about 52,000 miles on it and it just started happening.
I've searched rough idle but haven't found anyting that seems simialr.
Any thoughts?
Remove the air box so you can look into the throttle body. My bet is that it is dirty and gummed up. Spray throttle body cleaner in there and clean it out. The car might be hard to start when you put the air box back on because of the throttle body cleaner, crank it and it will start, go for a ride around the block and it should be running better.
I'm going to have to take it to the shop. I sprayed throttle body cleaner and it didn't improve.
Check for vacuum leaks and didn't find anything.
Oh well.
My Porky is also experiencing irratic idle even after cleaning the throttle body. Have not tried cleaning the MAF yet and will do so immediately. Any other possibilities that causes irratic idle?
Step 1) If the car puts on the light it's stored a code. Pull the code and report back.
There's no point in people randomly guessing when you have data to help guide the diagnosis.
-Shawn
+1
Had rough idle when the AC was off. Then got a CEL Yesterday. Went to Autozone and bought a cheapo OBD II reader. It showed P1123 and pending P1125. Looked it up on this board and it points to MAF.
Looked up cleaning procedures for the MAF and did that (about as tough as changing a light bulb).
Cleared the codes.
Engine now runs smoother and idles nice. No CEL.
I ordered a new MAF from GSR Autosport online. About $200. WAY cheaper than the quotes I got (over 50% cheaper). I'll put it in when I get it. Once again, its about as hard as changing a light bulb.
You can purchase electronics cleaner (spray) in most auto supply stores. Make sure the one you get states that it's safe for plastics. Then you remove the MAF by unscrewing the two security torx screws (note the orientation), spray down the sensing elements (look like resistors), and let it dry. Do not touch, rub, or try to scrub the elements. They are fragile and they will break. Then reinstall the MAF sensor making sure you have it pointed the correct direction, and you're good to go.
-Shawn
Don't be surprised if it doesn't fix it till mysteriously the problem goes away after diluting possibly an old tank of gas from the car sitting during winter
parts stores do have maf specific cans of spray.
You don't spray the resistors to clean it. The sensor is actually at the bottom of the MAF. there's a thread on this board (can't remember which one unfortunately) that diagrams the airflow of the sensor and shows where you need to spray it out. If you look at the bottom of the MAF, you'll see a section that is like a "hook". It has an opening for the air to flow in. Look in there and you'll see the metallic sensor probe. The air flows past it and out a hole in the bottom. I sprayed cleaner on that and let it flow out the bottom hole. I did a couple 10-15 second shots. Let it dry at least 30 minutes. I'm still running fine and haven't put in the new one I bought. I figured I'd wait till it gives me the light again.
Glad it worked. When I cleaned mine a CEL reappeared after 2-3 weeks of usage, then I replaced with a new MAF and it has not thrown a CEL in well over a year.
Well it still happens. But it's weird, it's not just a rough idle. It starts fine, then it chokes, pops and the idle rises and goes down after about a minute.
The car runs great after that and the idle is perfect. It's only when you first start it up or after its been sitiing for like 12 hours.
Performance is great and you can start it all day long with no idle problems, it's just the initial start up?
Thoughts...besides taking it to a repair shop???
As Shawn suggested, any codes stored? It sounds like your fuel system has bled down (i.e., not holding pressure after 12hrs) so at start up, there's not enough fuel. How about when you start it, turn the key to ON for a few seconds and back to OFF and then to ON again. Repeat this cycle a few times before actually cranking the engine? This should help prime the fuel pressure before the engine is actually cranked. Just a thought.
Without the ability to read codes, you're diagnosing in the dark. A simple code reader is ~$50 from Costco and will be an indispensible tool for any car greater than a few yrs old.
Turning the key on and off didn't make a difference. Not sure what the air pump is?
It only lasts less than a minute.
I need to get a code reader. Maybe go to Autozone and use one of theirs.
Any pictures of where to plug it in? My car didn't come with a manual.
Thanks
So, I started getting the P1123 and P1125 codes again. I installed the new MAF and things were fine. Then two weeks later I started getting the same codes again. I just pulled out the K&N CAI and reinstalled the stock air box. Cleaned the new MAF and it is running fine. Boy, I sure noticed the difference between the K&N CAI and the stock. I really miss the sound of the K&N, I guess I'll have to upgrade the exhaust...
