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YOUR RESEARCHnew engine with tic to knock
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Replace lifters
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I had the lifters replaced on the pass side, now with 15K miles.
Leading evidence: 'Replace lifters' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace lifters' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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About 3 years ago my 99 996 went bye bye due to the intermediate shaft bearing. I had a new engine from Porsche put in by a Porsche speed shop. After lets say 12K the engine started with a slight tick. Very hard to hear and would come and go once in a while. Over hundreds of miles it slowly got worse. It got more frequent and got louder to more of a very loud knock now. It's directly related to engine RMP and sounds like it's coming from the pass side. Now it's constant and loud. I had the lifters replaced on the pass side, now with 15K miles. No effect. No check engine light ever came on.
I took it to the dealer. They said it sounds like it's the pass side top and they would charge me 5K to pull the engine and look at it!
I told them no so they said they will call me back...
I was going to just go pick up the car but I wanted to wait a day or so to see if they have an idea without ripping into the engine.
One thing I noticed, the old engine had bad "coffee foam" in the oil. They prob didnt flush the system and all that crap went into the new engine. Is it poss that would clog an oil pass and cause a lifter not to pump up? And would a lifter not pumping up be that loud? When I get the car back I was going to take a video so I can post the sound.
If it can be the oil pass, if you pull the cams, could you blow air in the oil pass?
Any advise is more then welcome.
No not the old oil, just the old gunk stuck in the neck/tube.... Possible.
AT that kind of money, I would ship it to Jake at LN like mentioned... at that cost, you can have a lot done to that engine including the problem I could imagine.
See if you could post a sound clip, that would def help!
NO check engine light I find it hard to believe it is lifters, or a broken valve spring, a burned valve. It might be a plug or possibly an exhaust leak but still hard to believe no check engine light if the plug or exhaust is causing a tick/noise as loud as I imagine it is and for as long as it has been going on.
The best thing I can advise is take the car someplace and have the source of the noise located as precisely as possible. This doesn't require the engine be removed. I've watched Porsche techs do this, even participated a few times when invited, and that is with the engine idling and of course the noise audible, lift the car in the air and then get under the car and listen.
I've even seen the tech grab a mechanic's stethescope and probe the engine's various covers, crankcase walls, transmission housing, exhaust manifolds until he's very sure of where the noise is coming from.
From this he can be pretty sure what's wrong. But generally at this stage it requires the engine be torn into to confirm the suspected diagnosis and fix it if possible, unless the noise is found to be coming from something not in the engine but on the engine, something external, like an accessory drive.
Now I don't know about the 911 and its engine but in the Boxster (my 02 Boxster) the tech managed to remove the passenger side camshaft cover (after removing some exhaust system stuff) and remove the camshafts to get down to the VarioCam solenoid and VarioCam actuator on that side that had gone bad. (He told me he could have almost as easily done the same thing to the driver's side camshaft cover had the problem been on that side.)
However, he told me that if he had had to go after some of the chain tensioners and chain guides (the chain guides/rails on the actuator looked brand new and this after 240K miles!) he would have had to remove the transmission cause the transmission housing covers at least one bolt that needs to be removed to gain access to the chain tensioners on one side of the engine.
My point is if the noise source is found to be under the camshaft cover the engine may not have to come out of the car. But the techs you take the car to should have the final word on this. After all they're the experts.
Sincerely,
Macster.
