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YOUR RESEARCHAdvice when looking to purchase
Leading reported evidence
Clean ppi
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
My 2000 C4 had 70,000 miles and a great Dealer History and a clean PPI.
Leading evidence: 'Clean ppi' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean ppi' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Now that includes Tires I choose to replace for age, and a Water Pump I did for P.M.
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Suggestion
open the oil filler cap and look for cream = car driven on short trips and not warmed up = bad for the long run - also open the coolant cap and look at coolant, any oily film or wierd colors = signs of something a miss - test drive for 30 minutes minimum.
Test ride...(if not alone tell the passenger prior
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
on test ride...(if not alone tell the passenger prior to doing the following) listen for weird sounds during the following:
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Suggestion
open the oil filler cap and look for cream = car driven on short trips and not warmed up = bad for the long run - also open the coolant cap and look at coolant, any oily film or wierd colors = signs of something a miss - test drive for 30 minutes minimum.
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16 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Looking at buying a 2000 996 with well over 100K on the clock.
Wondering what I should look for to guide me in the right direction on whether or not this would be a good purchase.
I will be getting a PPI done to include a leakdown test.
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Curious, what is your budget for the 996? If possible do yourself a favor and find a car with less miles. Forget about distance, fly out and drive it home or fly out and have a PPI done than ship it if the drive is too far. A PPI is a must do on Porsche 996 and do yourself a favor and buy a warranty/service contract. You can get one with 12 or 18 payments, I did lots of research and got one that pays the claims. I can share what I learned if you want info, send me a private message.
A 10 year old Porsche with 75k+ miles and no warranty coverage is risky man. My car is super reliable but its a car and things do break down on a Porsche it costs double or double and a half what it costs on a domestic car... food for thought.
Buy this:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2346416408.html
I talked to the guy and it sounds like a great driver. Ton of work done to it at a good price. I decided that I want an 02 so I passed.
Depends on your budget, patience and option lists. Tell us about this car first and I am sure you will get Tons of answers. Also "Search" is the key my friend
Ah, and don't be scared of high miles if car checks ok and price is right
There's not much of a budget really and I am not sure that it matters if there was.
I am sure just like any other car out there that there are "things" to look for when purchasing a car.
I knew what to look for when I bought my 69 mustang, my 86 951, my 99 F150, my boat, etc.
Many times there are those inherent problems with a model/year/manuf. that steers a potential buyer far away from a prospective car. Just wondering if anyone had that advice.
Thanks again. Oh and thank god for Rennlist!!
My 2000 C4 had 70,000 miles and a great Dealer History and a clean PPI. But it has still cost me $5000 in what I consider reasonably expected (not all of it) Maintenance in the first year. Now that includes Tires I choose to replace for age, and a Water Pump I did for P.M. So my advice is 100,000 miles well cared for & priced right and a Kitty of $5000 for the unexpected and you will have a nice Porsche and be happy as I am to drive this great machine. If the seller can document recent tires and brakes and water pump and RMS and Clutch... or discount the car $$$ so you can do all those things (plus add the LN IMS retrofit) buy it...
Read that already, but thanks though. Looking for someone to say "look underneath the car where the control arms mount to the body"..... that type of advice, but if it isn't needed on a 996 then that's ok too.
Thanks
Well, listen to the engine - you should hear no knocking like a coin inside a can. No white smoke when starting car; oil leaks (look underneath engine area). And of couse perform a PPI for peace of mind if your initial visual inspection is satisfactory.
Whats the asking price if I might ask?
I was just quoted a complete engine out R&R for around $4.2K including new clutch, LN bearing, AOS, cam pads, tensioners, water pump and major service. Outside of a new set of $600 sumi tires and new suspension which can get expensive, I would end up with a basically new car.
$5K is kinda steep but nice to have just as a maintenance fund. I had $5K in the bank when I first bought my car and ended up spending it on GT3 sways and suspension the second year.
$5k goes quick when you get to the "while you are in there" list
open the oil filler cap and look for cream = car driven on short trips and not warmed up = bad for the long run - also open the coolant cap and look at coolant, any oily film or wierd colors = signs of something a miss - test drive for 30 minutes minimum.
on test ride...(if not alone tell the passenger prior to doing the following) listen for weird sounds during the following:
2-3 "emergency stops" where you engage the ABS -
hard (I mean hard!) cornering at fairly good speed (40 ish) back and forth (think slalom)
drive over RR tracks or other rough surface
reverse and brake hard to stop
at least a couple high rpm runs in middle gears (2-4 ish depending on conditions) no need to red line it, but get it up
I might think of more, I am drinking
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
