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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCalipers bolt
Leading reported evidence
Replace ever four years
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
Discussions
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Same reason they want spark plugs changed ever four years.
Leading evidence: 'Replace ever four years' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'bit ****' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend caliper bolts' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use cobalt drill bits.....carbide is for masonary.
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Suspected cause
That's probably a bit ****, but every other time is probably good.
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Suggestion
I think Porsche might even recommend new caliper bolts when they are removed and not to reuse them.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Hand drill off bolt head and penetrating oil / pipe wrench on exposed bolt has my thumbs up as easy peasy recommended procedure in this circumstance.
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29 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I had the old style hex bolts. 7 came off but one was so stubborn I now have an inside strip (the interior hex �socket� on the head of the bolt is now rounded sufficiently my hex bit rotates).
What now? Any suggestions?
that is not possible as the bolt is recessed in a countersink on the caliper.
i tired an M12 torx but it didn�t bite and I think made things worse.
wondering about using propane to weld something to the bolt before going the drill route?
You should replace caliper bolts with new whenever they are pulled. That's probably a bit ****, but every other time is probably good.
Also, a quality socket for high-torque bolts is not a bad idea.
I have the same situation with a header bolt I snapped off recently. Just the head came off but not sure how I can get the rest out without having a nut head welded onto it.....which means bringing it in to a service place......for now I can run it the way it is but will eventually need to fix.
carbide bits? I tried another one of the bolts in a vise to see what I was getting myself into and with titanium it seemed like it was gonna be very challenging. Any other tips?
i would start with a 3/16 bit then 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2. U get the idea...step it up slowly. U only have to go in about a 1/2' to get to the base of the head. Control the drill speed and use oil for lube. It takes some patients but its works.
Caliper bolts r just regular steel not titanium. I use cobalt drill bits.....carbide is for masonary.
Don't use carbide in a hand drill. It's very tough and very brittle. Like Aaron said start small with a 1/8th and step it up from there in small increments. The bolts are hard, they aren't excessively hard.
Don't use harbor freight drills, they are not sharpened correctly. Or the Amazon chinese no-name brands. Get a good set of drill bits from a US company and use those.
That's because they're elastic/stretch bolts.
Use off the shelf cap head bolts (grade 10.9 or 12.9) with a new/decent driver piece, and those suckers will outlast every set of pads and rotors you can ever throw at them. Just make sure you use aluminium paste on the threads and reduce the torque setting accordingly.
King of drill bits :
https://www.wurthusa.com/Abrasives-C...s/p/0624930025
Not cheap I grant you, but hugely effective.
I've also been using a superb tapping grease/compound when drilling bolts out, and it keeps drill bits waaaaay sharper, waaaaay longer (but I can't remember what make it is ...)
Clue, Follow De Jeeper's guidance. Drill it out. And most critically, "you only need to get (drill) to the base of the head." You don't need to drill any deeper. Pop the head of the bolt off and then pull off the caliper. That'll give you an inch or more of bolt to grab on to with vise-type grips. If you are uncertain, look at one of the bolts you got out and how you might drill out the head. You are only drilling enough to pop the head off.
U have to drill a hole anyways so why not just remove the head and get very good access to the rest of the bolt. Also I wouldnt want to risk breaking the easy out in the bolt and making the problem worse.
Most likely the bolt head is frozen in the caliper and thats why it stripped out and no easy out will be strong enough to break it free.
I had the issue to the point that the head snapped...
I used that :
Amazon
Amazon
Worked very well.
However the thread in the hub came with the bolt so I had to drill and use an helicoil after.
I hate ez out's. A buddy found a set in his basement and asked if I wanted them. I told him, "clean them up carefully, oil them nicely, and give then to someone you
don't
like".
Thanks for all the advice. For the sake of posterity and anyone reading in the future I figured I should let you know how the story ended.
I tried hammering in a 12mm torx. Did nothing except make things worse.
Then tried to hammer in a larger 11mm hex bit. Thought I had wedged it in there pretty good. Again the caliper bolt was so immovable it did nothing and just spun.
Finally I gave up and drilled. Basic cobalt bits. It was much easier than I expected, doubt I even had to go 1/2 inch deep. A 5/16 or 3/8 inch bit took off the head (I forget now which one iff to was). 10 minutes max probably more like 5
After getting the caliper off I sprayed on some atf/acetone mix. Mind you I had been soaking the caliper bolt in this and kroil earlier, but the bolt threads looked bone dry. Now that I had access to the hub I figured I would let it sit overnight.
10 minutes later I decided to use the wrench to get a sense of what I might be in for tomorrow. Holy smokes. Even with just 10 minutes, now that the penetrating oil was actually on the threads the bolt actually seemed like it might move. 5 minutes later it came out like it was nothing. I inspected and tried one of my other caliper bolts� threads look clean and undamaged in hub.
Highly appreciative of the input. Hand drill off bolt head and penetrating oil / pipe wrench on exposed bolt has my thumbs up as easy peasy recommended procedure in this circumstance.
First glad you got it out. Porsche recommends using new caliper bolts each time because of galvanic corrosion between the steel bolts and aluminum knuckle. Same reason they want spark plugs changed ever four years. They are not stretch or torque to yield. If you track or Xcross installing brake caliper studs is the only way to go. Too easy to damage the aluminum threads.
I have had 1 bolt freeze on me and went through the same process.
I find some cars the calipers are over-torqued.
I always recommend using hand tools only when working with these bolts (or any iron bolt in an aluminum fixture).
--Aaron
All good advice. Another thing I noticed is that my socket did not fully engage the bolt head; the flange of the socket hit the caliper before it could go fully in. I had to get inventive in order to ensure full contact.
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