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YOUR RESEARCHThe BEST jackstands?
Leading reported evidence
Use 2' 2"x6" plank
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Then I use a 2' 2"x6" plank on the jack pad to bring the front up to the same height (with the plank nestled up against the extreme front of the car's spare tire well).
Leading evidence: 'Use 2' 2"x6" plank' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean cars fellas' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Then I use cotton rags with 409 to wipe down all of the surfaces.
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I use a regular floor jack and start by jacking under the engine case (w/ a hockey puck between jack pad & case).
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I've used a set of AC stands for nearly four years.
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Then I use a 2' 2"x6" plank on the jack pad to bring the front up to the same height (with the plank nestled up against the extreme front of the car's spare tire well).
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I've got some Big Red ratchet style jack stands that I've been using for the last 1.5 years. Do any of you feel comfortable with that type of jack as opposed to a pin type? The idea of being underneath the car scares me a little so I'd really like to have the safest stands available.
The heavy duty ratchet ones (what I also have) appear to be just as safe as the pin type. Actually, safer than the other pin type set I have for light duty, as the metal thickness and welding on my ratchet ones far exceeds the pin ones. Just make sure the ratchet is fully engaged against the teeth before any weight is on the stand.
I once saw a guy under the front of a big ol' 80s domestic.
He had it on jackstands.
On a bit of a hill.
On a bit of a
dirt
hill.
Yes the car was both angled downward and resting on jackstands on grass. What kind of idiot looks at that and thinks, "This is a good idea."
I prefer the latching style over the pin ones. The sheetmetal is simply flemsy on most of the pin ones.
But I always do this; keep the jack under the car for a back-up of the jack stands.
Or, I throw a huge piece of a tree trunk under the car.
I've used a set of AC stands for nearly four years. They are absolutely bombproof. I purchased the stands from Steve at
The Ultimate Garage
.
I've probably jacked the car up 25 - 30 times since '05 and have spent countless hours under it. I have no worries regarding the safety of these.
Andreas
I use a regular floor jack and start by jacking under the engine case (w/ a hockey puck between jack pad & case). This gets the rear of the car on the lowest setting of the AC stands. Then I use a 2' 2"x6" plank on the jack pad to bring the front up to the same height (with the plank nestled up against the extreme front of the car's spare tire well). This works well since the weight of the engine/tranny helps to pivot the car on the rear stands.
Then I rinse & repeat until I have the desired height. In this case, I'm doing a ton of cleaning underneath and wanted the car as high as possible. So I added heavy wood blocks on the jack pad to give height.
Even at this height, the car is extremely stable. It's been there for three months....
My '95 will be 15 years old in June (6/94 build date) - not bad:
Andreas
COOL, but I am in doubt as to weather that works on a 996 or not... the best guy to ask is Orient Express... he also has a pinned DIY on renntech if I am not mistaken on the subject of jacking.............
This may be more appropriate for another thread, but you guys are obviously the SMEs.
I've been trying to visualize how one goes about cleaning these areas. Spraying
up
, rubbing/brushing/wiping, and then rinsing
upwards
, has to present some self-cleanliness issues, no?
I was planing on doing a jackstand arrangement like you guys have done, and just getting dressed in some garbage clothes, safety glasses, hat, and have at it with a hose, Simple Green, and some rough brushes and rags.
Do either one of you have any write ups on your process?
I've had the car for nearly four years, so its current condition is a cumulative result of numerous upside-down cleaning fiestas....
I initially scrubbed the underside with Simple Green, but now use Stoner's 'Xenit' citrus cleaner. It's the only product I've found that actually cuts through the old Cosmoline/wax. Once clean (or once I've reached my limit) I saturate everything in 303 and come back a day later to wipe off any excess.
And yes, quite a bit of this work has involved old toothbrushes.
Andreas
I bought the car new back in 2002. The initial underside cleaning was quite laborious removing all of the Cosmoline. It took multiple sessions to get it all off.
I used a pressure washer, a stiff bristle brush, and several gallons of Mineral Spirits to soften and remove the cosmoline. It was a wet messy job, best done in the summer time!
After the initial cleaning was done, then the routine cleaning is really a snap. I don't intentionally drive the car in the rain, take it off-road, and try to avoid the mud, so it stays fairly clean. In addition, we have moderate humidity and no salt air here in my part of California, so corrosion isn't that much of an issue.
I do a maintenance cleaning of the underside at least once, sometimes twice a year. This usually takes 2-3 days, and involves putting the car up on stands, removing the wheels, tail lights, rear bumper cover, muffler heat shields, underbody covers, headlights, and the front bumper cover. I also remove the air cleaner and sometimes the secondary air pump so I can get at the engine.
Everything gets a soaking in Simple Green, then a rinse with a power washer with a medium nozzle. This will get rid of all of the road dirt, dust, and grime that accumulates. Then I use cotton rags with 409 to wipe down all of the surfaces. After that, next I polish the muffler cans with metal polish, wipe all of the painted surfaces with detail spray, and the black plastic surfaces with tire dressing (buffed down to remove all residue). The rims get a coat of Rejex, as do the polished muffler cans, pipes and tips (this keeps them from turning brown).
Lastly, put everything back together, and the car is good to go for another year!
Wow guys - that's truly impressive... Maybe the thing to do is to wait until you get bored with your cars then buy them once they hit the market...
Rudy
