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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHGirodisc install on C2
Leading reported evidence
Use another grommet in the rear
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used another grommet in the rear to locate and protect the sensor wire bundle.
Leading evidence: 'Use another grommet in the rear' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Use another grommet in the rear' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Use oem rotors; new oem rotors will doubtless weigh more
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The weights for "stock" in this comparison are from a pair of very well used OEM rotors; new OEM rotors will doubtless weigh more.
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Suggestion · Original poster
In the rear, the sensor wire bundle that runs from the hub to the body no longer clips in place using the stock grommet.
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Generation: 20261026T190023Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I recently refreshed the brakes on my 996 targa and decided to go with Girodisc rotors. The job was not especially difficult but there were a couple of items I thought others might like to know. I figured a separate thread might be the best way to maintain topic focus.
SIZE / WEIGHT
The Girodiscs are larger in diameter: stock is 318mm F / 299mm R, Girodiscs are 340mm F / 325mm R. The weights for "stock" in this comparison are from a pair of very well used OEM rotors; new OEM rotors will doubtless weigh more. With that in mind here are my numbers: stock 18.2 lbs. F / 13.8 lbs. R, Girodisc 18.0 lbs. F / 15.4 lbs. R. Yep! The rears are a pound+ heavier.
Front rotors size comparison
Rear rotors size comparison
INSTALLATION
The Girodiscs come with spacers and longer bolts to move the calipers further away from the hub and make room for the larger diameter rotors. When the calipers are relocated, there are other items affected. In front, the brake wear sensors are not long enough to reach the connector. In the rear, the sensor wire bundle that runs from the hub to the body no longer clips in place using the stock grommet. I solved the front issue by rerouting the sensor wire underneath the strut clip, which required drilling a second hole in the bracket immediately underneath the stock hole. This gave the sensor wire a shorter route to the connector. I used another grommet in the rear to locate and protect the sensor wire bundle.
Routing the front wear sensor wire under the strut bracket
Added grommet for sensor wire bundle
BRAKE PAD CLEARANCE
The Girodisc rotor plates bolt to the center hat via a flange on the hat. The flange sits above the rotor surface, which means clearance between the brake pad and the top hat flange needs to be checked. Girodisc wants at least 3mm clearance between the edge of the pad and the edge of the flange. If there is insufficient clearance Girodisc's instructions say to grind down the pad. (Note that this only needs to be done on one side of the rotor, i.e. grind one pad per wheel.) I checked this by installing a pad backwards so that the pad's backing plate was against the rotor face. In my case I needed to grind off the excess backing plate that stuck out past the pad material.
Brake pad - to - tophat clearance
I don't recall if I had any issues with wires - if anything I needed to reshape the brackets that hold the hard-line/soft-line junctions in place. Feels hairy doing it but solid once finished!
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
