P1325 Bank 2 - DIY?

2002 C2. Durametric says P1325 bank 2. From researching here and through Google it seems one of the solenoids or actuators is not functioning as intended. Read a lot of threads that describe removing the valve cover to remove the solenoid, but I think that's only for the 3.4s. On a couple of threads it's been said replacing the solenoids on the variocam plus is "easier" but doesn't go into detail, so I'm guessing it can be done from outside the engine? I had the bank 1 solenoid replaced a year ago and the service work order says only that the mufflers were removed, the solenoids switched to verify operation, and the solenoid replaced. I can do that easy enough in my garage. I have the downloaded pdf manual but it only covers the MK1 3.4 vehicles, not the 3.6 so it's no help. Dealer wants $600 parts and labor. The part is only $150 so I could save a chunk of change if I do it myself. Anyone here actually replaced their solenoids on a 3.6? Also, how does one make a distinction as to which solenoid is manfunctioning - the one for timing or the one for lift. Perhaps each will trip a different code? If so, which code applies to which actuator and where can I verify this without a shop manual (they're very expensive).

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...aricam-ailment http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...oil-what-is-it

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Good info, but which codes go with which sensor and/or what is the technical description for each solenoid: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic..._1#entry202672 Camshaft position or camshaft adjustment - they both make changes to the camshaft position and the camshaft adjustment.

Accordint to this P1325 relates to the timing advance adjustment item #23 in the diagram. Is this correct? http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic..._fromsearch__1 Also, where can I find a copy or the exploded view for the MK2 head with a parts list in pdf. Boy, a manual suurrrree would be nice...

If P1325 is the only one you are getting it does mean (as Loren pointed out) "No triggering of the actuator, active position nevertheless. – Short to ground – Actuator faulty Triggering of the actuator, no active position – Open circuit in triggering wire – Open circuit in B+ supply – Actuator faulty No active or passive position is detected – Actuator faulty" There is a cam position sensor. It is reporting that the camshaft is not adjusting as it should be (camshaft position). This could be due to a fault with an actuator (camshaft adjustment). You'll need to diagnose whether it is the wiring, the sensor, or the actuators which are causing the problem. You could try swapping sensors and/or actuators between banks (sides of engine) to see if the codes follow. In which case you've found your problem. The actuators are easier to get at. As richard states one solenoid is for timing the other lift. On bank 2 (psr side), I would start with the one for timing (front of engine or rear of car), and perhaps swap it with the one on the driver side (rear of engine front of car). It could also be the actuator for lift, which you could repeat above procedure. Here is a thread on how variocam plus works. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/557016-how-variocam-and-variocamplus-works-a-primer.html

While the TT does have a cam advance system, it is not the same. The TT uses P/N 99610530371 or 99610530172. The systems and engines are different between the turbo and 996. They are not interchangeable. You should be looking at the 996 parts diagram. You actually need from the 996 diagram 40 or 41 99610530104 or 99610530306 per my other post on renntech.

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Have you already provided this link? I didn't any diagrams with the above numbers in any of the links posted so far in this thread.

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Yes, thank you, but I know all this. What I don't know is: Technical name for lift adjustment solenoid Technical name for timing advance solenoid Which codes apply to which solenoid Just to clarify further: when I hook up the Durametric and I receive a code, in this case P1325 on bank 2, how does one know which solenoid/actuator this code applies to. Is that written down somewhere and I just missed it. The codes are all catalogued on Renntech but I haven't seen an explanation on how to determing the above. I'll check the Durametric help file when I get home. Sorry to be so tenacious. If the manuals weren't $1200 I'd just order a set.

For a link to the part, here you go. 40 and 41 in the diagram. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...-05/103-11.php I gave you the advice on how to narrow down which in that post you just quoted... to summarize again. The code says "camshaft position is not right". I would start by swapping the timing solenoid between banks. Go under the car, and pull out the timing solenoid on the psgr. flywheel side. It's part number will be printed on the solenoid/adjuster/actuator. Pull the timing solenoid from the drivers side front of car (the one on that second renntech pic). Swap them, and restart car clear the codes and then check for codes again. If the bank 1 code pops up then you know it is the actuator/solenoid/adjuster you just moved. If that doesn't work and the code is still there after you've cleared it and got the revs up above 3000 ish on a warm car, then try swapping the lift solenoid/actuator/adjuster between banks. If the code is STILL there, you have a wiring issue, or the cam position sensor is bad (you can try swapping the CPS as well between banks. If after that you still have the problem then I would say you should have other codes present already as well. Technical name = actuator (solenoid, adjuster, etc). This code isn't specific to a solenoid, AFAIK.

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Thanks - very helpful. I'd forgotton about Auto Atlanta's website. So the answer to my question is - it doesn't say specifically which part is malfunctioning, it just tells me something's outta' whack. I'll have to test each part to find out. Seems like it would have been easier to just say that.

Rightyooo sir. Best of luck.

Thanks again to logray for excellent information. I started up Durametric and realized there was an updated version, so I installed it. Now I'm current with 6.1.0.7 and must say the GUI is much improved. Bra-vo Durametric. I also printed out the help file on the color laser at work as I hate on-line help files. After hooking up the cables and setting up the software for my model, I enabled logging and started the car. By the way it would be nice if the software would save my settings as a default so I don't have to go through setting it up each time. I switched to actual values window and selected the cams on bank 1 and 2 to compare values as I ran the engine at various rpm. I noticed the bank 2 cam readings were similar to bank 1 when the engine speed was steady, but anytime the throttle was increased or decreased quickly it would lag behind, then catch up. I'd love to post the log but I can't see that it saved anything but one informational screen that shows the three CEL codes - at least that's all I can see when I load the file to review it. I checked the website and the log is suppose to record all the actual values. Maybe I didn't set it up right. Anyone who knows please educate me. I also cannot find any of the log files outside of the program, meaning if I load the file from within the program, the log files appear in the Data/Html directory. But if I go through Windows 7 explorer the dated log files don't show up. Something's not right. I pulled the car in, jacked it up and set it on the stands when I noticed a small puddle of oil under the right side. A quick investigation revealed a dead motor mount. Bummer. I went on line to check prices and came up with $400 for RS mounts at Suncoast and $400 for Wevos. Called the dealer and spoke with a guy in parts and he didn't know what I was talking about when I said RS engine mounts. Must have been someone who just answered the phone cause the usual guy is very knowledgeable. I liked the way the Wevos looked better anyway so I ordered a pair of those. Took off the air box and noticed the serpentine belt was cracked all around the inside. Maybe it would last a lot longer maybe it won't but I'd rather change it now than deal with it leaving me stranded. Preventative maintenance. I plan on changing all the rubber hoses also. They're looking pretty dried out, but that'll have to wait for another payday. In the end I ordered new actuators for bank 2 - one for the timing and one for the lift. They're only $150 each and more than worth the hassle of pulling the mufflers, swapping actuators, etc. One solenoid died last year, one now, can the others be far behind? Better I say to just replace them while I have it all apart. Now I have to go buy a 12mm socket now to replace the one that mysteriously disappeared when my son replaced the clutch on his RX8...

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After you've logged data and pressed stop click on the export button. Or Press the print screen key on your keyboard, then open word or something similar and paste (ctrl + V). In the menu somewhere there is a log data function too, but it has always been buggy on my laptop. If you're doing coolant hoses yourself invest the $100 in a uview airlift 55000. If you don't have a 5 gallon or bigger air compressor invest in one of those too. Harbor freight 8 gallon for example. If you don't vacuum fill it is kinda a gamble if the bleeder valve will eliminate all of the air in the system. Hope this works out for you! Let us know!

BTW check this out:

118 wind chill! No way!!! I remember Fairbanks at -50 below wind chill in -20 F . I can't even imagine what 118 degrees + wind chill would feel like. A few years ago I rode my bicycle from Fresno, CA high up into the mountains 13,000 feet up (about 150 miles round trip). On the way back down riding into Fresno, the temperature was 109 degrees. It was seriously F'ING hot. Like throw up hot, or cut the hot with a butter knife hot, or what the F am I doing here hot. I seriously hope it cools down there with that tropical storm blowing into the south. HOT in Texas is noooo fun, although maybe 45% humidity makes it feel like a warm summers day compared to most of the time.

Up to you but you might want to rethink that hose replacement. I had my 02 Boxster in a while back for the coolant tank. Tech said the job is fiddly because of the hoses. I said if it made the job easier cut the hoses and of course replace them with new (at my expense -- my thinking was a couple of hoses if they saved an hour or two of $150/hour labor...) I added in fact a thought about just replacing all coolant hoses. The tech said that cutting the hoses doesn't help and advised me to reconsider the coolant hose replacement. He went on to say the job was pricey. And he's never had to replace hoses. They appear to last quite well. Now the other day my car was in again for some minor service (oil/filter, transmission fluid change and some other things). The front wheels were off the car (oh year I had the bumper removed to allow the tech to clean the ducts of trash) and I spotted the coolant hoses. Grabbed them. Felt them. Squeezed them. Sure the surface was a dry as any thing. But the hoses felt damn good, solid, no softness. I'd say the hoses will last a long time. Now of course if your car has hoses leaking... that's different. If you still want to replace the hoses as a preventative measure -- and it is up to you -- remember all hoses are the same age. This means you should replace every last coolant hose in the car. Not just the couple you can see at the engine compartment. Sincerely, Macster.

Wind chill? I think that should be 'heat index'. Sincerely, Macster.

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Thanks for the heads-up. I wonder what the service life expectation is for the rubber hoses. I know they can't last forever but as you said I don't want to replace then if they have another 50k miles. At some point I'm going to remove the engine and refurbish/refresh it. At that point I can evaluate their condition and make a determination. And you're right - it is "heat index". Whatever one calls it - IT'S HOT!

I degreased the air cleaner box while it was out. When I opened it up it had leaves in it. The air filter didn't look too bad: But upon closer inspection had done an excellent job of filtering out dirt: There is a piece of open cell foam attached to the inside of the airbox. When I was cleaning the box it disintegrated. This is all that's left: I couldn't find it listed as a part. Anyone know what its function is? I thought perhaps it was a heat insulator but there isn't anything outside the box in that area that's especially hot. I guess this is the infamous Helmholtz resonator: I need to do a little research on that... [edit] more info: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ir-intake.html 2002 996 Carrera Technik.pdf