GUESS WHAT?????

I've been on this forum for only a few weeks....very infomative....when I had a Ford Superduty, I found a forum called "Ford-Diesel.com".....the name has since been changed, because F... hassled them about using F... in the title....anyway, there was an issue w/the 7.3 Powerstrokes about a noise, called "Cackle".....people were frantic about "do I have the cackle" or not......there were those who believed, and those who didn't, and they argued like maniacs. So here I am, a few years later, with my recent 996 purchase, on this forum, watching a similiar situation w/RMS, and wondering why everyone is so up in arms..... Until today, when I take her in for 15k service, and when I pick her up, I'm informed that I have to bring her in next Thurs to have RMS replaced. gulp........ The service mgr also tells me that while there already in there, it might be a good idea to put in a new clutch, because it would cost 1500 under normal circumstances, but since they're already in there, it will be about 800.....tells me the clutch is releasing high, and is stiffer than it should be. Also tells me they usually do an alignment when tires are replaced..... And brakes at 30k rear, and 45k front. I've owned 7 P's, and never had a clutch replaced.....this car has 15k...... Waddya guys think of his report in general????

For 800, change the clutch. If the RMS is leaking, you may have oiled it anyway. If the car tracks true and the tires are wearing properly, skip the allignment. Sounds about right on the brakes. Query. Pads or Pads and rotors? The story on the rotors is told by measurement, but you need to believe the measurer. Frankly, I'd be miffed by the RMS failure- if you get 2 more, enact the lemon law. AS

The brake jobs are rotors & pads.....tires aren't wearing properly, but I'm tempted to wait until I mount new tires to do the alignment....as to your last comment, about 2 more RMS's and enacting lemon law, service writer's comment is after 2 seals, they go to Porsche, and demand a new engine!!!! I hate the melodrama!!!!!

I would demand to see the clutch with your own eyes before you make that decision. I understand that it is extremely rare for the clutch to be damaged by an RMS leak. The whole thing sounds suspicious to me. If they are telling the truth, then they shouldn't have a problem letting you see with your own eyes before you make a final decision. In any event, it would be interesting to see with your own eyes. Actually, I just realized that I don't really know how many miles you have. Is this your first 15k service, or what? That could change my answer. I assumed that you only had 15k, in which case that does sound suspicious.

Did you see any oil on the floor of your garage? I really think these dealers just jump at the chance to do the RMS for the money...and then say might as well put a new clutch.... My old 996 (bought by a friend) was in for an oil change today and they said that it had a little seapage and it should hold out till at least 30-40 k miles...It has 23k on it now and no leak visible on the floor. They told him he would want to change the clutch at 30-40 k if they do the seal then... My feeling is if it aint broke, dont fix it! If it goes out then fix it! Hard to know who to trust these days...

The dealership is ordering a clutch for inventory, and when they open the car up to do the RMS replacement, they'll get at the clutch, and we'll all have a look and decide. My vehicle has 15065 miles. The explanation I got was there are 3 levels of moisture......dampness, seepage, dripping......mine was allegedly between seepage and dripping....... 15000 miles is pretty young for a new clutch, but I don't know how the former owner drove.

When I had my RMS replaced at 6000 mi under warrenty I told them to replace the clutch disk and I would pay for the part because there would be no extra labor because they have to take it out to get to the seal. Even though I only had 6000 mi on the plate I thought it was worth the $100 for the disk just to get a lttle longer clutch life. Also when the car was new I really beat on the clutch a lot in those first 6000 mi.

As a general rule inspect parts for defects and only replace defective or worn parts. Have the dealer call you if he finds anything out of tolerances. At 15K miles the clutch disk and pressure plate should be in very good shape, unless you are racing it real hard. The thickness of the clutch disk can be measured, but this requires disassembly of the pressure plate and thus the same labor as replacement. If it is wet with oil , sure, the disk should be relplaced, but you would likely know this by feel. If the petal is high and stiff, there may be some issues with the petal assembly or maybe the relatively cheap actuating lever and/or ball pin, or maybe hydraulics. The petal assembly has a special spring assist mechanism. If you drive in a lot of traffic standing on the clutch alot, maybe replace the release bearing, actuating lever, ball pin, and intermediate piece. Sounds like an alignment would be in order, possibly with the new tires. Rotors are easily measured for wear, and pads can easily be inspected. Replace them if you need to, but not simply by a schedule. I have over 40K miles on the original pads with fairly mild driving.

Duh you have to take the pressure plate off the flywheel to get at the RMS. Haven't any of you guys every replaced a clutch before? I did my first one on a 51 ford when I was 16. Probably did about 50 since. By the way the 996 clutch is not that different in design from a 51 Ford!

If this is true, why should it cost $800 for a new clutch?

Duh! You are right. My mistake. It's only 6 bolts anyway.

My RMS went at 23K miles, and I had the clutch disc replaced for $600 while they were at it. I asked to see it and it was 80% done. I don't track my car or grind it hard, but I do enjoy the drive. With the new clutch in the car feels great.

assuming you bought your car used, it seems the previous owner abused, or was inept at the clutchwork. 15k miles and a new clutch? thats cwaaazy

I don't know what a pressure plate and throw out bearing cost. $800 seems high for them plus a clutch disk. Replacing all three would be what you would do for a complete clutch repair. I'm sure you could find just the price of the parts on the web to see if the dealer is ripping you off.

I can't wait to enter the service dept with a copy of some if these replies......they'll probably throw me out.

Go to a another dealer. This guys seems intent on ripping you off.

nearest alternative dealer is 250 miles!!!

Unless there is an indication of problems, I would suspect that your clutch and brakes are fine. I wouldn't pay the dealer a penny for anything above what warranty will cover. Many dealers love to take advantage of people who know little about cars by using scare tactics. Just last week, I changed the oil in my 94 Honda and noticed than one oif the outside CV boots was torn. I called the delaer and asked what they would charge to replace. They came back with a price of $650.00. I told the guy that he was nuts and then he corrected the price by saying "oh that is for axle relacement too". He lowered the price by $80. I went to autozone and bought the complete right side axle assembly for $72 and pulled the old axle and installed the new one in under 45 minutes. Conclusion: If you don't understand your cars, either find someone you trust or educate yourself or expect to be raped every time something goies wrong.

99 is right, just do the warranty work alone, if the rms fouled the clutch, that should be included, that's what my dealer told me.

What would the RMS have to do w/the clutch pedal releasing high, which is one of his claims. I don't feel it. When the take it apart, we'll all have a look!!!