HELP...Removing Cam Solenoid

HELP...Removing Cam Solenoid. I am throwing a P1325 error. I am trying to remove the solenoid to replace it but it is 'stuck'. In the picture you can see that the retainer bracket is already removed but the solenoid itself will not come out. Anyone have any experience replacing this? Thanks.

Its "stuck" becasue it is bolted on from the inside. Its a wee bit bigger job than what you are thinking.

check this thread, I had the OP post pictures of that exact part LINK (click here) what you are looking at is the tip of a huge iceberg... and it is a very complicated assembly that requires removing WAY more parts - dealers quote this job at 18 hrs or longer and when you are in there you will want to change several "wear parts" as they are cheap at that point....

Sigh, thanks. Like you I had a leak in that area, but also a CEL code that is preventing me from passing smog test. 18 hours of labor, ouch.

I dont know the codes... but that part should not fail (though sometimes they do) search for the code and maybe it can be cleared... some codes pop up that are indicators of a problem that might not exsist (like a miss fire in wet weather that doesnt show up in the dry weather) I would re-set it and see if it pops back up and if it takes a couple days... quickly get your tabs - then get it fixed

I wished getting my car passing smog was that simple. Clearing the code doesn't work, I've tried for Months with my Durametric but it comes back to the same P1325 for Bank1. You also have to drive the car 50 miles or so before all the monitors reset itself to be able to pass smog.

that sucks... time to either learn a really tough job, or do the one you are at a few extra hours and pay someone for the tough job. There are write ups on this... let us know what your plan is and we will all help the best we can GL

To remove the solenoid you have to remove the cam cover, the cam gear and the cam bearing caps. This will require a couple of tools. The cams are actually held in place by the cam cover and two bearing caps. You need the tool to secure the cam in place at the opposite end of the cams from the solenoid. Once the cam cover is removed, there is another tool that hold the cams in place while you remove the bearing caps. You may also need a tool to set the cam timing. You can make the tools, I have some info on this if you are going to try it. There is another tool that compresses the solenoid, but you cam do this with a piece of wire. If you are able to get the engine to top dead center and put a holder in the pully on the engine, then you can probably mark the gears, chains and cams and not need the cam timing tool. It is hard to do all this with the engine in the car, but not impossible. How do I know all this, because I just fixed a cracked head on my car that required removing the head.

and yet..... he is still smiling!!! WTG, thanks for the info

Is the problem electrical or mechanical. Test to see if solenoid is getting power.

Quotes source posts: 6653353, 6653105

Thanks for all your advices. The bank1 solenoid kicked in when activated through the Durametric. The engine actually bogs down a bit. The funnny thing is I cannot get the Bank2 solenoid to activate...potential issue #2??? Thanks. I probably will hit you up on this. I've been speaking with the wife whether it make sense timewise to farm it out or drop the engine myself to do the necessary repairs. I've been leaning on dropping the entire engine/tranny since I also have a leaky RMS or IMS. This will allow me to address everything at once. From a time perspective, I also comtemplated shoehorning in a used 3.4 or 3.6 (I have Egas already) so I have a weekend car to drive in the meantime.

The 996 actualy runs perfectly fine (I think) at the AX/DE with this CEL issue. No idle or power lost at all. sigh...

If you have a 3.4 there is some work to get a 3.6 to work. The biggest challange is the VarioCam Plus, which requires electrics that a 3.4 does not have with VarioCam. There are lots of posts/threads on this type of upgrade. Roock and a few others do them, but it seems they usually take some time and work. As to dropping the engine, the first time I did it it took several days, working just evenings. Due to some misc problems with a failed sensor and an expansion cap popping out of a cam, I have now perfected dropping and intalling the engine and can do it in only 4-5 hours, and that is in the driveway on jackstands. There are a few tricks that make it easier, probably the hardest part is the AC compressor. Also you need good jacks, I use a motorcycle jack, with 2x12's under the engine and a floor jack under the transmission. Unfortunately the motorcycle jack requires two steps as once the car is high enough to slide out the engine the hack won't go high enough. Let me know if I can be of help (as an advisor).

thanks, Dharn. You would figure someone would market a 'drop in' controller and harness adpators for those that want to upgrade their 3.4 to 3.6. I come from a Honda camp, where conversion info is shared and parts are readily available. Still cleaning out my garage to have the necessary space to work with. My wife is not happy about me considering buying another motor even if it is for temporary purposes.