87 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHAlternator-starter cable replacement simplified
Leading reported evidence
Install position and the lead off the starter as well
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
to clarify, I removed the lead from the back of the alternator with the alternator left in the fully installed position and the lead off the starter as well.
Leading evidence: 'Install position and the lead off the starter as well' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect y cable' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
My car doesn’t have any warm starting issues etc, but am thinking since I already have the alternator out (the alternator, starter and Y cable have never been replaced)
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Fortunately for me, the PO replaced both the battery and the alternator trying to address the issue.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
IIRC the last alternator I did cost Me about 20 bucks for parts, I replaced brushes, 1 bearing and I bought a diode from mouser to fix the 1 that failed in the rectifier.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I mentioned that I replaced my starter, and in fact that was the reason I replaced the cable, slow to no hot starts with the occasional screeching starter motor.
Install position and the lead off the starter as well
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
to clarify, I removed the lead from the back of the alternator with the alternator left in the fully installed position and the lead off the starter as well.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
My car doesn’t have any warm starting issues etc, but am thinking since I already have the alternator out (the alternator, starter and Y cable have never been replaced)
Replace ac compressor a few months ago and didn't want
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I just replaced the AC compressor a few months ago and didn't want to deal with that rear bolt again so I loved OPs idea that would avoid that headache.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
IIRC the last alternator I did cost Me about 20 bucks for parts, I replaced brushes, 1 bearing and I bought a diode from mouser to fix the 1 that failed in the rectifier.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I mentioned that I replaced my starter, and in fact that was the reason I replaced the cable, slow to no hot starts with the occasional screeching starter motor.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
87 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 1 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Yesterday I managed to do this quite easy. By removing the plus-point plastic box from the cable I avoided loosening the AC pump. I cracked the old one since it will not be used. The new one was removed carefully by heating the plastic in hot water. This makes it soft enough to simplify the removal without damage. Do not put the whole cable in water
, only the box.
Great idea! I did try that to remove the plastic box (without heating it up) but gave up in the end afraid of breaking it. Using hot water should soften it enough.
No messing with the AC-pump, this was the whole purpose. You can detach the old plus point box on the old cable with a screw driver, it will pop off and maybe crack. But a new one is already on the new cable. Be careful with that one instead.
oldish thread, but want to clarify:
So replacing this cable with this "hot water" trick requires nothing to be removed/rotated/lifted/etc.?
Just thread both ends thru and attach? or does the "hot water" way just eliminate a few of the required remove/rotate/lift requirements?
Question...
If I did have this cable problem, which I think I do on my '99 C2 which is now 17 years old and showing the symptoms, would it affect my idling?
I'm thinking maybe since my battery is not always at full strength due to not being charged properly during long trips due to the cable getting hot, it may be causing this annoying intermittent idle issue I can't seems to correct.
The idle issue usually appears when car is fully warmed.
Battery is new, MAF is new, idle air control valve replaced, no apparent vacuum leaks (was tested), oil filler tube not leaking, new oil cap, etc. Done just about everything to try and fix the idle.
Thoughts?
What voltage you get from the voltmeter on the instrument cluster?
Cold start you should get 14v or a hair above. When driving and afer warmed up, you should have 13.5v to 14v at all times even with low beam and a/c on.
Thanks! The sunset link shows it as just the bare cable itself with no #13 - that plastic box. Can you confirm if it comes with it?
http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oe...he/99660701901
When you replace it make sure the cable is attached to the starter at exactly the same angle in which you removed it!
Mine was at a 7 o'clock position instead of 9 o'clock and would short the starter when I hooked the battery back up.
To my knowledge, no. Some think the -03 is updated, but I pulled a totally rotted -03 cable from my car. California/Texas car with under 70k miles at the time. If there's a difference, it sure didn't look like it.
Isla: Perhaps a previous owner replaced that cable and ended up installing a -03.
In my case, I replaced both Y-cable and battery (6+ yrs) in Dec 15 due to high engine-start impedance when the engine was hot. Engine would always catch and start but it was labouring and becoming iffy.
High impedance never caused idling issue though as a previous poster queried.
Exactly. My car should have an -01 and someone had already replaced that with an -03. Both apparently did their job and both subsequently corroded and died. My point is that one doesn't appear to be any "better" than the other. The difference between the two versions? No clue....
What is causing these cables to corrode?
I have means of making such cables. This one looks simple enough, maybe I should make my own is the factory ones are of such poor design that they keep failing.
Is there a writeup somewhere on R&R of the cable?
I hope you're right but that rubber cap didn't do much for mine. -03 cable removed from a So Cal/Texas car with about 68,000 miles. I peeled off the cap prior to taking the pic.
Of course, at some level, this is what causes everything to eventually decay, but why is this cable failing so much more than others? Insufficient gauge? Poor crimping (ie current bump or spike in one location)? Poor quality materials? Or most likely, dissimilar metals (poor material selection) that results in galvanic corrosion, exacerbated by the current and heat.
From the pictures, it looks like it would be easy enough to use two separate cables rather than the complicated piece with two different gauges connected to the same lug.
My 00 cabby is exhibiting the usual low voltage when the AC and other accoutrements are turned on, and weak starting. Im going to look at replacing with some higher-gauge (lower numerical) and two separate cables to see if I can make it a) cheaper, b) lower resistance and c) last longer.
Also, along the same lines, has anyone used one of
these
? 240amp direct replacement. You can never have enough amps....
Old thread, but I just used the hot water trick and it was very easy. I was careful enough and was able to save the original cable plastic end also. Mine had zero corrosion and looked fine ('99 cabriolet). I did not remove the alternator either. The alternator cable attachment nut is tricky to get to, but a 13mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet worked fine. I changed the starter motor while I was in there.
^^ same here. Just went through this last week & used the hot water trick - worked very well. I did remove the alternator, which was an exciting way to wear out my hands. Unfortunately, I pulled one of the vacuum lines out of the 3-way connection point. So the 996 is resting until I can get it cleaned up.
I mentioned that I replaced my starter, and in fact that was the reason I replaced the cable, slow to no hot starts with the occasional screeching starter motor.
The new starter came from Amazon; brand new Bosch # SR0808N, with part number 996 604 103 01; $207 2 day delivery. Same exact starter that Porsche used, but $1,000 cheaper than a Porsche branded one.
** Update - I dissected my old starter, the screeching is caused by a dried out bearing in the end of the starter furthest from the flywheel. maybe when hot this dried up bearing creates enough friction to prevent the starter from spinning? Maybe it's a bad cable, hard to say.**
Nice, I had the cable done first - that was about two years ago.
Starter has lasted since then but had one hard hot start awhile ago and seems ever so slightly slow to turn over so pulled the trigger on a new Bosch one on Amazon today.
I can tell you from that picture above that it appears to be a high resistance connection that caused the corrosion/degradation. I don't know if it was protected better if it would of changed much.
Agreed, looks like it's seen some heat. If it's from high resistance then why? I'm pretty sure my other 911s have batteries, alternators, and starters too.
I'm guessing this was part of my starting and charging problem. BTW the hint about taking the box off with hot water worked like a charm. Still, getting the intake manifold off and on and the alternator out and in is a real pain. I believe the cable was replaced about 5 years and 40k miles ago.
First glimpse that there might be something a little off
That this was still working at all is amazing
After, at idle
FWIW,, you can buy many of the parts to rebuild a starter,, its actually fairly easy..
I've done many,, (Not Porsche,, VW and Audi.. ) A typical starter needs 2 bearing/bushings,
a set of brushes. A good cleaning.. I use a vacuum first then spray electrical cleaner..
You need to go easy because the wires in the windings are varnished.. so test on the end of a wire first..
sometimes just mild soap
I've taken the stator in to a local electrical re-builder and they turned the contact area for the brushes for 25 bucks.
total time takes about 30-60 minutes after you do your first one,, as long as all the winding are nice and clean and no burn marks
its usually good to go.. That can be tested quite cheaply as well.. Alternators the same deal,, they seldom need
more than fresh brushes and maybe a bearing.
When its all done just test as if your troubleshooting..
IIRC the last alternator I did cost Me about 20 bucks for parts, I replaced brushes, 1 bearing and I bought a diode from mouser to fix the 1 that failed in the rectifier.
I just put a new 997 Bosch alternator in and am very happy with it. Amazing how bright everything is and no variance with the engine speed. Only $300 on Amazon.
Amazon
Amazon
Got my first Hot Slow Crank, no start yesterday after a 10 min drive.
Is this the latest updated part for my 02 996? As Cable Loom - Genuine PorscheG99660701903
Hello Bill, I kind of went down that path last summer. Weird because it was after short drives. Not really a hot engine. Now I'm finding that I'm not having trouble, even with more extended drives, sporty 30 min to 1 hour, hotter motor. I wouldn't mind replacing my Y cable but it's not that easy and it's not clear what the source actually is. And I haven't had any problems for some time. Maybe it helps that I'm keeping a trickle charger on the car now. Another thing, related or not, is that my ignition switch was balky when I got the car, hard to turn to start the car. Sometimes when cold it would take minutes to ease it to the start position at which time the car would start normally. I purchased a new switch, common issue apparently. However, that too has resolved and I haven't needed to install the new part. Clues? Maybe. Try driving your car 45 min or more and see if it starts at that point. Good excuse for a drive. Don't shut off until you are home or park on a hill for easy compression start if you have problems. Let us know what you find.
If you haven't already, look up some of Ahsai's excellent posts about diagnosing the starter cable. That should help you determine whether or not it's the culprit.
Took my battery down and had it tested. It was a little low 12.3 I think. Gave it a full charge and so far the problem has not come back. But I've only driven it four times since. Parts have been ordered just in case as the service history going back to 08 shows nothing done in relation to these parts...Stay tuned!
Bump to an old thread since the hot water trick helped me, and to share my experience. My '02 Cabrio with 45K miles has had hot start issues. Cranked and started fine when cold, or after sitting for 10-15 minutes when hot, but very slow crank when trying to restart immediately after stopping. Not good if I'd have a ham-fisted (foot-fisted?) moment and kill it in traffic! I bought a new Y cable probably 9 months ago but had been putting it off. I finally got around to it. The whole project took me at least 4 hours but a lot of that was looking up stuff on the internet and staring at things trying to figure out what to do. I did unbolt the alternator (the stupid bushing was pretty uncooperative about being tapped back), as well as removed the airbox, throttle body, and plenum, but nothing else.
I was partway through the job and assessed the existing cable--it looked practically perfect. No signs of corrosion, nothing burned or broken or discolored. I half thought about just leaving the existing cable in, since it didn't look anything like the other bad cables pictured here. But I pushed ahead and got it done. Today I took the 911 out to pick up my daughter from school. Voltage while running started out just over 14, and settled to just under 14 after some driving. After I got home, I shut off the car and restarted it. It cranked normally! I can't believe that the existing cable really was bad., given how good it looked. So, point being, even a good-looking cable can be bad.
I have a 2002 C4S that is having the hot start issue - really annoying. Curious if you replaced the starter along with the cable? I have been "ham-footed" a few times at lights and ended up stalled out in the middle lane directly off the Manhattan Bridge in rush hour traffic! FUN. A construction worker helped me push the car to the side - and I am sure a lot of people had fun laughing at the idiot in the sports car. I only stall because I know the car won't always start again! Adds a lot of excitement when going on trips, getting gas, and just driving around town. Can't wait to resolve this issue.
A friend and I are replacing both the starter and the cable - since I am getting occasional screeching from the starter right after start. Feels like a big enough job that doing both components makes sense so I don't have to go back in.... More to come on this.
Thanks for the hot water trick - I think I will understand when I get into the work (and get the new cable... waiting for delivery today!!!)
Yes, did exactly this job a month ago on my 2004 C4S. Makes total sense to do both the Y-cable and the starter together, as the starter is just two more bolts once you're already in there. Replacing both fixed my hot start issue and now the engine turns over comically fast before firing up.
I also didn't understand the "hot water trick" before doing the job. Basically one end of the Y-cable has a big plastic mount clipped to it which makes it impossible to fish that end of the cable through the gab between the A/C compressor and the mount point. But it's possible to carefully separate the big plastic mount from the cable using a couple of thin screw drivers. Soaking the plastic in hot water softens it making it easier. The cable fishes through easily without the big plastic mount attached. Then once it's fished through, reattach with a click and you're ready to bolt it to the mount point.
One word of caution that's mentioned lots of places but I want to re-emphasize: be careful with your oil filler tube in this job. It's old a brittle at this point. I was at the very end of the job and casually leaned my arm on mine and BROKE IT OFF at the corrugated part. Depressing! But I was able to hack a fix using a 1-1/4 to 1-1/12 rubber coupling from home depot (
link
) to get me up and running. It seems to be holding and I'll replace it whenever I have to remove the alternator.
A friend and I completed the job on Monday - replaced both the Starter and the Cable. The Starter was from 2008 and was having minor issues. The cable was definitely corroded and the slow starting was annoying.
And agree DCSJC, the car starts comically quickly now! It is such a huge change whether hot or cold that I can't believe it each time. If anyone is having any lagging while starting, do the work - well worth it.
FYI - We were able to make the change without removing the rear plenum. We also removed the alternator and used the HOT WATER trick which saved us from having to move the AC compressor. For the HOT WATER trick, let the boot soak for 5 minutes or so in very hot water and it will work. We also likely could have saved the old boot since we were able to fish the cable out without damaging the boot - since we could bend the old cable pretty significantly while removing it. This gave us the option to use the old boot if we damaged the new one. I expect you could also cut the old wire since you are removing it anyway to try and salvage the old boot.
Thanks for the help on this to all the posters above. So excited to start my car over and over and over again (and not worry if I stall it out - which I won't since it's not an issue any more!)
My cable had no signs of corrosion, so I replaced only the starter and that fixed the hot start/no crank issue.
Fortunately for me, the PO replaced both the battery and the alternator trying to address the issue.
Good for you... I won't know if it was actually the starter or the cable... cable was $75 and I was in there BUT starter only is an easier job.... too bad it's not a lot easier to switch the cable!
I am replacing my Alternator in my 2001 996 3.4l 6 speed manual Cab with 85k kms (when I can find one, I want the Bosch AL8015N but everyone is out of stock at present (have thought of the cheaper aftermarket brands but am a bit sceptical of installing one of those (the one being replaced is a Bosch Al8012) anyone got any experience with the cheaper aftermarket alternators, in particular the DB Electrical alternator
https://www.amazon.com.au/Electrical...e%2C371&sr=1-1
but that really wasn’t the original intention of my post. My car doesn’t have any warm starting issues etc, but am thinking since I already have the alternator out (the alternator, starter and Y cable have never been replaced)
Should I replace the starter and the Y cable at the same time?
Thank you everyone that contributed to this thread as it has helped me in my attempts to replace the starter and Y cable. As my new starter and cable are only arriving tomorrow from FCP Euro (given that I plan on keeping the car a very long time and this may happen again in a few years, their lifetime guarantee will pay off) I decided to get ahead and start the removal process today. Here are my observations so far:
I only removed the front plenum and left the rear one in place.
I was able to disconnect the Y cable from the alternator without removing it. 13mm nut easily accessed from the back.
Accessing the bottom bolt of the starter was the part that worried me the most but, as mentioned in numerous other posts and instructions, with the right combination of extensions and u-joint it wasn't as difficult as initially feared. I used a magnet as an extra precaution to not drop the bolt but even if it falls it won't go very far.
Hardest part was squeezing the old starter out given how little I removed to do the job in the 1st place. Including the old Y cable and I will explain why.
I just replaced the AC compressor a few months ago and didn't want to deal with that rear bolt again so I loved OPs idea that would avoid that headache. Not fully understanding the hot water method and after having a pretty rough time removing the plastic box off the old cable with 2 flatheads I was struck with another idea. I will attempt to use the old cable to fish the new one through by attaching the starter/alternator connectors from the new one to the end sticking out of the old. In order to maximise clearance, I also removed the bolt at that end using a 6mm hex key (See pics).
I will report tomorrow with the final results. If you can avoid removing the plastic box from the new cable I'll consider this a small victory and poor myself a cold one.
PS: This is on a 2003 C4S with an M96/03AT665... engine (built in 2005 and replaced in the car in 2010) for reference. Not sure how many differences there would be with on a 3.4
Great success!!! I was able with very little trouble to use the old cable and fish the new one through behind the AC compressor. I zip tied the ends and put electric tape for added smoothness. New starter and cable are in. I still can�t get over how smoothly it starts now.
Zip tied
Taped
Went in relatively smoothly
Out the other end
Old cable fully out and new one in place
Well, it's happening again. I drove for 18 months since the rebuild and never stalled once. Then I stalled twice within about 5 minutes, and the second time I had that slow cranking experience. It still started though. On the way home that night (started up perfectly after sitting all day) I was stuck in traffic with my eyes glued to the voltmeter. It was too low.
Peering behind the alternator, I saw peanut shells and leaves...little bastards! I took the alternator out and all the wiring was intact. The connections at the starter still look great, too. I put the alternator back in so I could start running more tests, and nicked the lower hose for the AOS. NO, I DIDN"T break the plastic! That came later when I was replacing the hose...
Right now it's got a brass barb between the hoses and I'm waiting for an aluminum replacement
At least it's running, so I can get back to testing. I'm going to do the tests from one of Ahsai's posts to isolate the problem to either the (a?) cable or the alternator. The battery charges fine and holds a charge (and is only 3 years old). The alternator is about 4 years old.
Has anyone tried running separate (non-oem) heavy gauge wires, one from the alternator and one from the starter to the connection point? That seems like it would be a good test that you could install and drive with over a period of time.
Maybe it was a post from you that I saw. Before I settled on changing the starter, I added an extra ground strap to the SAI pump mount and one from the alternator to the post. When I ended up changing the starter I removed them.
I was just wondering about the replacement cables if the problem is in the crimp at the starter. Wouldn't it make sense to have two of the right gauge cables connected (like on the connection block) at the starter instead of the crimp? Or separate ones from the starter and alternator to the connection block (although that would mean three on post, and if it's anything like three on a match, that's no good.
I secured and ran both cables from under the same bolts (2 to a post from the alternator and starter) the other cables ran from with zero issues. I seem to recall the added ground was the whole point…been a while.
I also went with non oem cables post 65
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-cable-7.html
.
Can't beat the price and was shipped to my door in 4 days.
Update: It's snowing in Toronto. I have no garage or carport, and the alternator was a pita to get back in. I've had it out a few times in a few years, plus it was obviously off for the rebuild. It just seems way tighter than it needs to be trying to rotate it clockwise back into place.
Anyway, that's not the update.
At full operating temp, I now have between 13.6 and 14V with a simple 4 gauge cable from the alternator to the connection block. With everything I could think of turned on (damn, just realized I forgot the seats), it only dipped to 13.2V.
Even if the y cable isn't corroded, it could still be the problem if charging is reduced at higher temps.
I used this thread for directions, which was very helpful, but had some improvements that I think will help others. I used a heat gun to heat the plastic to avoid getting anything wet in hot water and decrease risk for more corrosion. I was able to pry the plastic piece off those cables and put onto the new installation. The cap was taller on the old one which was needed to clear the jump post so I swapped it I ver.
More importantly, I was able to put a 13 mm socket on a small quarter inch drive ratchet and put it on the back of the alternator without removing the alternator or the second Plenum. I did not remove the starter, the serpentine belt or any additional pieces. I will try to post some images. It can be done if your careful not to drop your nut and have smaller hands for someone with small hands to help you.
to clarify, I removed the lead from the back of the alternator with the alternator left in the fully installed position and the lead off the starter as well. I then removed the lead off the jump post, remove the plastic cover, slid out in the lead from the jump post out put the new cable in those same places and screwed it on without removing anything but the airbox and rhe Plenum
I took a video which was too big, so I shorten it into sections that I was trying to post that it requires an account be created and a credit card given so I didn�t post it
Reach through space of removed plenum behind the back of alternator.
