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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHRadiator repair. She sprung a leak.
Reported or suspected cause
side of the radiator
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
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Reported cause
For my radiator it was the side of the radiator that has the one attachment point not two.
Leading evidence: 'side of the radiator' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'side of the radiator' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check sunset' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
For the lower I used a pair of needle nose vice grips to loosen the clamp
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Suggestion
You can find genuine Behr replacements for less that $300, there are several on eBay now, and check Sunset.
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27 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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My radiator needs pampers or repair. Does anyone have instructions on how to remove and repair them. I've done a search but only have found instructions on a 3rd radiator installs.
The removal of the radiator is fairly simple, a couple of hoses and a couple of clips/bolts. Don't remember all of it exactly but I had both of mine to be flushed when I had the intermix. You have to loosen the AC condensers as part of it. Probably makes more sense to replace the radiator that to try to fix it. You can find genuine Behr replacements for less that $300, there are several on eBay now, and check Sunset. Porscheoemparts.com (Sonnen) lists them discounted at $250.
Yes, I plan on replacing the radiators for $235 or so I just need instructions. I just can't seem to get the radiator to come out. During removal I just don't want to break any part that may cost another $300. I already have the ac condensers out of the way, fyi.
THese may help..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um-h2aUJHY4&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xhw_hWpisY&feature=related
Macster and Marc maybe able to help here as both have had to have their radiators changed.
have you seen the cost of pampers lately.... it would be cheaper from a Porsche stealer, german stamped, original Porsche OEM radiator, hell getting the whole set would be cheaper.
I removed my radiator here recently. Couldn't find full instructions on how to perform it, mostly just bits and pieces out there. Here what I remember, sorry no pics. Also I have turbo radiators so it might be slightly different
1) Drain fluid
2) Jack up car (don't have to but easier, initially I drove on top of a couple 2x6"s to remove the radiator then jacked it up to reinstall)
3) Remove front wheel
4) Remove wheel liner, don't have to but it makes it so much easier. Its only a couple bolts
5) Remove front bumper, use the video above for instructions. You do not need two people, its fairly light just be careful. Be careful with the temp sensor in the bumper
6) Remove the air scoop. Two bolts I believe
7) Remove the 4 torx screws holding the condensor attached to the radiator and let the condenser just hang
8) Remove the plug that powers the radiator fan at the back of the radiator
9) There is three hoses that attached to my radiator, two upper hoses (one large hose & one small hose) and one lower hose. Where each hose attaches to the neck is a silver colored ring. Remove the ring for each of these. Once the ring is removed you can pull the hoses out of the radiator. If you have a hard time removing the hoses, these hoses are secured in the wheel well by clamps, you can unsecure them and pull them of on that side. For the lower I used a pair of needle nose vice grips to loosen the clamp
10) Now the radiator is mounted to a frame, you will need to remove the frame to get to the radiator, for my car I believe it was 1 13mm bolt and 3 torx. Also you will need to remove the clamp (1) at the front of the car that attaches to the single radiator mounting point, use a flat head screw driver. Note the washers and how the radiator attaches to the frame Once the frame is loosed from the subframe you will need to wiggle the radiator out.
11) Once out remove the clamps (2) at the end of the radiator using a flat headed screw driver. Note the washers and how the radiator attaches to the frame. Don't lose them you will need them. Now you can push the radiator out of the frame by using one of the 3 attachment points.
12) Remove the radiator fan by removing the 2 torx and slide out.
Installation is the reversal of this procedure, be careful with reinstalling the radiator since the fins bend easily.
Also be patient and take your time
To refill coolant I followed this instruction with the exact same kit (Mods - not sure if I can link to another site or not, if not pls remove) Worked like a charm
http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/F...nt_System.html
Thanks, I'll save this until the radiator comes in (I may forget if I start now). I was preparing to just use the 996_usa_katalog.pdf explosion pics to help however your comments will come in quite handy as well.
BTW, at the time of my post yesterday I think I'm at your step 10. I feel there is something still holding it in place.
I'm wondering should I do both radiators?
I posted the full instructions in case anyone else would care for them.
Hmm, now that you mention it you may need to remove the clamp the holds the radiator to the frame at the front of the car. If I remember right this clamp holds the radiator to the frame the car as well. For my radiator it was the side of the radiator that has the one attachment point not two.
Yes, thanks for posting the full instructions. I plan on following up when I'm done because over the years I've seen too many incomplete posts. I always come back in the end.
Anyway, yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about so I should remove something on that side too? I was thinking I could just wiggle it out but maybe not.
I have a silly question (by my standard) which is the left and right radiator. Most repairs I've done refer to passenger side and drivers side. Left is driver's side correct?
996 106 131 51 is the part number.
Once you remove the clamp and rest of bolts holding the frame you can wiggle the radiator & frame out. It's a bit awkward, but doable. Else you would have to remove the condenser, which you don't want to do.
Left side is the drivers side.
well, coolant flows through those flat pipes, the zig/zag fins between the flat pipe is the heat collector and cools the flat pipes... if you pull out that plastic and the flat pipe is untouched/undamaged... then all is good.
Yeah, it's anchored in as if it is supposed to be there. Vertex is sending me a new one but the guy at vertex saw a picture of it on his computer screen and saw the same thing.
You are correct. I just removed the old radiator. I'm waiting on the replacement to come in the mail today. In the meantime, I've changed the fan resistor. It's certainly not a plug an play job but fairly easy.
A couple of pics once you get to the radiator fan.
I don't know if anyone is still watching this channel but.......
I didn't receive the part until today. One thing I noticed is that it was properly packed in it's original box that included a pamphlet whereas the first one I received was as if the radiator itself was sitting on a shelf and they said "he we can finally get rid of the display model.
Anyway, I was a bit worried if I could recall where and what screw and clamp goes where but so far so good. I reassembled it to the point of where you'd typically clean your radiator. I haven't put the bumper nor the wheel well back together yet. The car is outside running. It's taking a lot longer to get it to the 180 mark so I'm hoping that's a good sign. The fan works when I turn the AC on but am not sure if it works when the car reaches xxx degrees without the ac on.
I'll have a couple of pics when/if I have the car "buttoned" up correctly.
The temp gauge is based on the temperature of the coolant. If you have quite a bit of air in the system it may not be cooling down the engine effectively and can cause the temp gauge to be inaccurate. How did you refill your coolant. I used the UView 550000.
Big test today! I was stuck in rush hour traffic with temps reaching 104 degrees according to the dashboard indicator. Temps inching along in town were to the left of the 0 of the 180, but a couple of times on the HWY the temp hit close the right of the 0. Seems backward. I'm also not sure if the fan on the wing is working.
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