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YOUR RESEARCH996.2 Tip Owners
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Install transgo kit
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Leading evidence: 'Install transgo kit' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install transgo kit' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I changed the conductor plate with the .2 Tip in the car which needs the valve body removed.
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Prior to doing this I ran the Sprint booster Throttle control.
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Suggestion
The shifts are much more positive and firm now, which is good for the clutch plates, ( less slippage ) Before it felt like a 64 Cadillac, slow to change gears.
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Suggestion
The shifts are much more positive and firm now, which is good for the clutch plates, ( less slippage ) Before it felt like a 64 Cadillac, slow to change gears.
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Yes I did.Wasn't bad to do the install, just messy. I also put in a Transgo shift rebuild kit and a new torque converter solenoid. The shifts are much more positive and firm now, which is good for the clutch plates, ( less slippage ) Before it felt like a 64 Cadillac, slow to change gears. Hope this helps.
My 4S has 97000 miles. It's not just about millage, but service history and use. Once the trany is apart why not replace everything you can. The cost isn't that much, these are not expensive parts. Some people think the Tip trans is made by elves with unicorn snot. Everybody thinks there is something unique to Porsche Tips. These are the same transmissions in 100's of thousands of Mercedes and Chrysler products. There is a lot of information out here about them, and a lot of shops that rebuild them. Although some won't touch the Porsche branded ones out of fear.
Mercedes blue top solenoids is the main part but there is also refurbish kit to repair the
valve body. Our transmission is made by Mercedes and is a 722.6 (NAG1) transmission. It was used
in many Mercedes and Chrysler along with some Porsche cars. There are many YouTube videos on this.
FCP Euro has a good one on this.
Pretty much as I had said in post #2. They firm up the shifts quit a bit, you know when it shifts. I like that, I use to race GM Turbohydro trans with very firm shifts. Enough to chirp the tires. No the mods to the Tip are not that radical, but they are more firm.
I just installed the Transgo kit. I was told the solenoids are not needed at this power level. They only increase flow which will help on high HP/Turbo cars. The shifts are much better. Flare is really reduced. especially from 2nd to 3rd gear change.
I am working on programming the TCU to fully correct these issues:
Start in 1st gear. Starting in second gear is an annoyance.
instant shifts are higher throttle/full throttle with higher line pressure.
Shift schedule reprogrammed. Going into 5th gear by 38 MPH is horrible. The trans shifts way too soon.
Optional Sport mode. NON PSM cars do not have Sport mode. We can add that. It would be a button to add. Once on, shift schedule would be much higher like 3000 rpm and faster.
I will post when I complete this project.
I already tune/program these engine ECU's to increase throttle response which REALLY helps the TIPtronic shift better and respond faster. Prior to doing this I ran the Sprint booster Throttle control. A setting of 6 or 7 completely changes the trans behavior. It will downshift immediately, especially on the highway.
This is a very common and very strong transmission. We just need to reprogram to behave like a Porsche should.
Are you doing this with the ESG51 tcu? The existing tunes for these require bench tuning supposedly.
How are you going about doing this..? You have experience in embedded programming/reverse engineering?
it'd be interesting to see what throttle responses actually force the tcu to shift to a more aggressive map. its been awhile since ive driven my TT in automatic mode with the stock map and for what its worth, the cobb ots map im running doesnt seem to shift all that much differently despite the fact i know the throttle mapping is way more aggressive.
could you share some inputs as to how you're re-mapping the throttle blade/angle setting in whatever tuning tool you're using?
I have worked for cobb since 2006. I tune these ECU's with Cobb and other tools. The Tip is very much Throttle based. I just compared the factory 996 Turbo map with the Cobb maps, The throttle tables are NOT changed.. They are factory. There are also TRQ tables but those are stock as well. I do and can change them. Are you running a cobb now?
Im running the cobb stage 1 OTS map on my TT. The throttle response is most certainly way different than stock and when I monitor the throttle angle blade %, i can press on it lightly and it will show im at 30-40% throttle.
The stage 0 map is a clone of the stock map..
very interested in what you're doing with the TCU, let me know if you need help with anything
I am really sorry. The throttle is NOT Changed from OEM on the ANY Cobb map including the stage 1 file. I have it open right here my friend. I just checked them. We have a compare tool. If you want to email me your map, i would be happy to open and see. Are you running V1.02? Clark at Clark Turner Tuning dot com
I got your file. Its a v 1.02 stage 1. There are NO throttle changes at all done to this map. The TRQ tables are factory as well. Here is a picture of the throttle table in comparison mode to the stock file. As you can see no changes. I can make one that has more response just for fun, if you like.
I am SORRY for this horrible picture. The glare in my office is really bad.
C
A bit off topic, but..
Do you have to drop the transmission to replace the solenoid or is it just a messy challenge?
Next, what kits would I need for a '99 C2? I know absolutely zip about transmissions and what little I do know isn't applicable. When the clutch is out of the equation ...
TIA
I changed the conductor plate with the .2 Tip in the car which needs the valve body removed. That wasn't difficult. Getting the case connector out, which needs to be done.... that was very difficult and I needed to take the left side E-brake cable out of the brake in order to get my hands in there.
It's an easy but messy job. You can jack stand the car, Crawl under, Drain, Drop the pan. Unhook the electrical plug and then remove the valve body. It's just torx fasteners.
Once out, you can take it to a work bench to install the Transgo kit. Lay everything out and follow step by step. You will remove some plates on the side, Slide some springs and parts out, slide new parts in, put the plate back. There is a youtube video showing this exact process.
You will need:
A new conductor plate (your there so replace it)
A filter and gasket, I used MANN
New Fluid. NOT cheap. Valvoline is significantly cheaper and that's what most use.
You can also just get on Ebay and purchase a rebuilt 722.6 Valve body. They come with new parts like solenoids, conductor plate and have been tested. They are $150. No really, $150 for them complete. NO core. Then, Install the transgo kit into that and swap the valve body. Old out, new one in. Back together.
Make sure to reset the Transmission adaptations. If you don't have a tool, just leave the negative terminal off the battery the entire process and it will reset it.
C
I am not sure what you mean. You can get a rebuilt Valve body for $150 and then install the transgo kit into the new VB. OR you can remove YOUR factory valve body and install the Transgo kit and put it back in.
C
I managed to find a new 722.6 valve body and I bought the TransGo kit as well. I'm not sure what the converter plate is that you refer to.
Like yourself, I'll be attacking this problem from the bottom.
The conductor plate is the plastic piece that the solenoid valves are attached to. It's also got two speed sensors molded into it. They go bad and the trans goes into limp mode.
All the wires inside the trans are molded into the conductor plate.
The conductor plate is where the electrical plug installs. It feeds the electrical signals to the Valve body. They are cheap. Make sure to get a new one if the Valve body does not come with one.
C
I have a 997.1 tip, do you have a list of parts that are good to replace in the transmission while I have the engine out?
Also, best source on the blue top solenoids? Cheers.
04 C4S here. Recent problem last week.
Driving long distance highway trip ~1500 miles, at about 2/3 distance coming home, the info screen on bottom of tach would say "Gear Selector" not selected, Lost Contact. No little red dots for selector position. This happened about 8-10 times, usually at ordinary highway speeds. If I just "touched" the gear-****, near zero pressure a tiny bit backwards, message gone "Contact OK", red dots re-appeared. While annoying, I did not think much about it. THEN--Total black out of miles, temp, whatever else was there "Selector Not Registering". Nothing, no red dots, no messages, no mileage, temp, etc whatever was there. The car still ran and shifted with steering wheel buttons, but not fun. I should say that in the beginning of "Lost Contact" was heavy rain, total deluge, but kept going. Going over Continental Divide 8790 feet, everything changed to snow. All at night, pitch dark. Slow speeds, maybe 40-50?, following a big-rig "guide-dog-truck" in 30 miles long construction cone alley. If truck could get through it, I could. I finally escaped from the cone jungle and stopped in tiny town gas station parking lot.
Is this related to valve body/conductor plate, or what?
TIA Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. I will have to figure out something on this "issue".
You can get the Transgo 722.6 kit on ebay. That seems to be the best price. You can get a rebuilt 722.6 valve body for $150 that will come with a new conductor plate, serviced and tested. Also get a filter kit which will come with a pan gasket. Then install the kit into that valve body and swap them out. It will be much less messy and easier for you or the tech to just pull one out and put one back in. The blue top solenoids are also on ebay. They were used in the AMG cars as they made more power and more trq. They do not make shifts faster. They flow more fluid and are best for cars that make high HP like the turbo models.
The fluid is expensive. You can use the Valvoline fluid. It is much cheaper and meets the ratings. Most people use that instead of the $35 a quart OE type fluid. I can tune your TCU. You would need to remove that from the car and mail it to me. OR, Buy a used 997 TCU and mail that to me. I will then tune it and mail it back. I am in the US. Not sure if you are also. The Tune is NOT required. It will make the car start in first gear instead of 2nd and shift much faster. Closer to a PDK type gear box.
Dagnabit. I just order the wrong parts. Now I'm in discussion with a few vendors who can rebuild and replace the solenoids if that is something that they can do. Otherwise I'll simply order a set to install when I get the unit back.
Thank you for the info!
Really True! I saw new FB w/Solenoids on Ebay for $150-$180. Unbelievable, but true. A P-name sends the same units $$$ sky-high.
What is the Valvoline type ATF for the Tip Transmission?
Do you know what part number of Mercedes Models to X-ref for "Blue Top Solenoids" ?
Where to get the correct "Blue Tops"?
TIA.
