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YOUR RESEARCHQuestion, Fuel Injector replacement
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Replace fuel injectors, and wanted
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Hi Everyone, on a 99-996 C2, I have replaced my fuel injectors, and wanted to know what to expect on the first start, do I have to bleed the system or anything else.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I have also replaced the plugs, updated coils, MAF and O2 sensors.
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I used a long chisel as a lever to massage them into place, and a lot of lubrication.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Hi Everyone, on a 99-996 C2, I have replaced my fuel injectors, and wanted to know what to expect on the first start, do I have to bleed the system or anything else.
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Hi Everyone, on a 99-996 C2, I have replaced my fuel injectors, and wanted to know what to expect on the first start, do I have to bleed the system or anything else. I have also replaced the plugs, updated coils, MAF and O2 sensors.
Many thanks.
With fresh fuel, empty lines, my motor when I put it back in started before it had 2 revolutions.. No drama.
It runs a few seconds for pump prime each time you turn the key on as well as a cycle on the drive by wire throttle body.
So if it didn't fire right away, just cycle the key on for 10 off for 10 (seconds) a couple times and try another crank...
Lowered engine and still finding incredibly difficult to re-install clips on injectors. I can reach it but getting the clip to the inside to pull out hard. Any "tricks.
John 1999 996
Everything has to be fully inserted.. The injectors solid in the manifold and the fuel rail solid on the injectors.
I did mine when the engine was out so I was cheating.. IIRC a pair of rubber jaw battery post liars worked to get them to snap in..
I got a set of injectors from Jeepers and going to work on the driver side first; up on stands, back wheels off, a few hoses pulled aside. Fuel lines off. How much can you pull out the fuel rails to work on the injectors when you get them unbolted?
Unbolt the fuel lines, it will help.
Honestly they are a pain in the ***, and if they are baked in you will suffer. Getting them out was kinda easy because you can just wiggle it until they pop out, but getting them back in was a pain.
I used a long chisel as a lever to massage them into place, and a lot of lubrication. I also had my plenums out, I can't imagine doing it with the plenums in. Good luck.
EDIT: oh and lower the engine, its a must.
okay this is for the guys who actually did it with the motor in the car. Not the guys who had it easy with the engine out. Yeah, I got the fuel rails unbolted. Pulled them out part way. Is that all you can expect? Don't want to pull on them too hard to get them out although that would make it real easy to remove and replace the clips, connectors, and injectors. It's pretty fiddly if the rails are just loose and not pulled out at all.
My good man, have you unbolted the fuel lines from the fuel rail?
I recommend just following this
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
Yes, thank you. I did indeed remove the fuel lines from the driver side of the fuel rails with the 19 mm and 17 mm connections. Also unbolted the 10 mm hold Downs for the fuel rail to the motor. The fuel rail is Free to move up and down. The number one injector, driver side, closest to the rear bumper, is easy enough to access. What is the best access for popping the clips and electrical connectors from the number two and number three injectors?
There is no magic way, but lowering the engine will help. Depending on the size of your hands I would consider removing the plenums, but try without that first.
You will suffer, be prepared 😂
Haha. They don't mention anything about that on the pelican instructions. Pretty funny. Just a sentence that says remove injectors. Then one that says installation is the reverse.
Got the driver side done. In case anyone else ever finds this thread I ended up only pulling the fuel rail about a third of the way out. I didn't unclip the wiring to the injector s until I had the rail Free and loose. Not not sure if that's the way to do it but since there's no recommendation I did it that way.
Yes, big hands. Not always a good thing.
Pelican mentions installing the injectors in the manifold first in some cases. I don't see how easy it would be to connect the injector to the fuel rail or The electrical connector. I was hoping someone who has actually done this would have recommendations.
I think the standard is to install the injectors in the fuel rail, install the injector holding clips, and then the electrical connectors. Then install the entire assembly into the injector holes. Is that what you did?
Yes, button everything up while the fuel rail is free, then plop the whole assembly down.
It will generally fit into place, and then you will feel when the injectors actually seat, mine required a lot of pressure.
Lube them, I think I used white lithium grease.
As stated above, make sure you lube the gaskets. That�s a crucial step in ensuring ease of reassembly as well as ensuring that you don�t cut/nick them. I used Molykote 111 when I did mine.
I used white lithium grease and it seemed to work pretty well when I test fitted them. Just a light coat. You can pretty much see the hole for the closest injector, number one, and get that one but then the rest are strictly by feel.
It's actually not even that easy to get all three injectors, clips, and connectors in place with the fuel rail free because the forward ones are still pretty deep in the engine bay as you are trying to get them together.
I loosened the passenger side bolts and popped the rail loose. All I can say to anyone doing this in the future that it seems like they're not going to come out. Maybe wiggle a bit. I did that and then let them sit for a little while and then they came out. Probably a matter of getting the o-rings a little exercise and flexibility. With the engine on a stand it would be so much easier to get a proper angle on it.
