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YOUR RESEARCHHelp needed to removed stuck exhaust bolt in sleeve
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Use liberal amount if copper antiseize
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Suggestion
Use a liberal amount if copper antiseize on the bolt when u reassemble and put the bolt in from the bottom, opposite of the drawing.
Help needed to removed stuck exhaust bolt in sleeve
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Leading evidence: 'Use liberal amount if copper antiseize' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Use liberal amount if copper antiseize' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Help needed to removed stuck exhaust bolt in sleeve
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I've been trying to remove my exhaust to send off to FD Engineering and am down to the last, short bolt bolt on the driver side. All of the bolts broke off but they were all loose in the sleeves except this one. The bolt broke inside the sleeve - about 1/2" from the bottom and looks and acts like it rusted in the sleeve. I have been soaking it top and bottom with PB Blaster for days and whacking the stuffing out of it trying to get it to budge. If I can get it loose, I can grind off the bolt head and get this thing out. Would heat help? I could get a propane torch or borrow the wife's craft torch if that could work.
I can't remove the 3 nuts on the hangar without breaking those as they are completely rusted over as well. I've thought about doing that anyway and welding in new ones, but that's a question for another time.
Sure - The stuck bolt is the shorter, 70mm one (#25) and the sleeve it's stuck in is #36. The bolt is broken off about 1/2" inside the sleeve. I might just have to grind off the head and hit it from above or try an extractor tool.
Remove the three bolts attaching item 23 to the bracket/engine. Take the combined item 23 and 26 off the car to a bench. Apply uber amount of heat to the sleeve and pound it out. Cutting off the head is an option.
I'll probably to do that - the nuts on #23 are totally rusted on both sides, so it's likely they'll break when I try to remove them. I guess I could have new studs welded back in or just get a used ones off ebay. It would sure make re-assembly easier.
Success! I remembered I had an air hammer, popped the bolt in a few second and a shower of rust, worried it for about 30 minutes with a hacksaw blade and finally got the muffler out. The bolt had actually seized in the sleeve. Am also cleaning and polishing the tips while they're out.
Got the mufflers sent off to FD Motorsport this morning for modification. Next stop is refinishing the calipers, new shocks, springs and spacers.
Thanks to all for your help.
Use a liberal amount if copper antiseize on the bolt when u reassemble and put the bolt in from the bottom, opposite of the drawing. If u put it in from the top it can not be removed when the muffler us in the car because it hits the inner fender
Right - that's the plan. I actually got some anti-seize with nickel because I read it was better in high-heat applications. Got the exhaust tips disconnected from the short tubes and soaked those in muriatic acid for several hours to remove the rust. Also cleaned up the tips a bit. Need to hit those with some Barkeepers Friend and finish off with some polish.
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