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YOUR RESEARCH2002 C4S thinking about buying
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Replace " does not mean
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Read evidence and context
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Just because the panel has not been "replaced" does not mean that it has not been repainted.
Leading evidence: 'Replace " does not mean' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check org' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I used Edmunds to price out the car I just bought.
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Got it with the paint, question, is it not possible do the same as on older car, check the org.
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For example, what if they kept the original body panel, but fixed the dent using "bondo"?
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One note of caution, and you may know this already if you've been using a paint meter: you have to know the variation in thickness as it comes from the factory to know what qualifies for an out-of-spec paint thickness you observe in the field.
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One note of caution, and you may know this already if you've been using a paint meter: you have to know the variation in thickness as it comes from the factory to know what qualifies for an out-of-spec paint thickness you observe in the field.
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Hi all,
I have had several 911s in the past: 85 cab, 89 coupe, 96 C2. I currently have a 2000 Boxster S.
I have an opportunity to buy a 2002 C4S with 15K miles, 1 owner, car is perfect. Artic silver over black supple leather. Xenons, CD changer. aluminum and chrome package (door sills, guage rings, exhaust tips).
This is not my dream car, it is simply another fun car to have for a little while. I am only interested in getting this car if the deal is good. So what would a fair price be for this car and what would a really good deal be? Assume the car is perfect (which it is), and I will have it fully PPI-ed.
Thanks for any and all help.
Pricing is so hard to establish and not always dependent on the lowest mileage being the best thing with these cars. A good car with perfect service records will command a higher price regardless of how little or how much it's been driven. I paid about a $6K premium 3 years ago over comparable cars with the same mileage. But mine had a 3" binder that contained every single receipt, article on C4S's and original docs that showed meticulous care from the PO. It also had a perfect PPI. While a bargain is always nice, buying the least expensive Porsche is not the best strategy...buy the best one you can afford as it will be much cheaper in the long run.
I've been doing a lot of research into almost that exact combo, as it's what I'm interested in right now. I have to agree with LVDell on the price. Most 2002 C4S that you see for sale (eBay, autotrader, cars.com) run in the high 20's or low 30's. Most of them, however, have around 70-80k miles. With so few miles and assuming it's in spotless condition, I'd guess you'd probably need to pay mid- to high-30s for the car you're looking at. I can't see 40k or anything over that happening at this point. If you get it for low-30s, you will have gotten a very good deal I think.
C4S tin tops seem to be hard to come by. Plenty of the bathtubs around though.
In a market for cars like this one it really doesn't matter what the mileage is as much as how bad the seller wants to take a bath (in his bathtub! LOL). Look for the most desperate seller if the mileage is acceptable and turn the screws hard. Your first offer should be rejected or should require ample thought. One or the other. YOU have them where you want them. Plenty of deals on plenty of other kinds of Pcars... if this is NOT your dream car.
p.s.
if the economy continues to loaf, that garage queen 2002 C4S won't get much more than $30-35K next year. Price that in...I've been patiently waiting on the sidelines for nearly 24 months. But the wait is nearly over. A car like this in the $20K's? amazing. Why would you ever buy new...
While prices are certainly all over the place, and while some people
assume
they'll be able to find the car they want from a desperate seller, it's very likely that a low mileage C4S will be on the far side of $35k.
Interesting, since a 993 C4S with 15k miles would have a huge price premium over one with 50-60k miles. Not the same value placed on low miles with 996 C4S, apparently.
Just out of curiosity, what do you all think the "S" version adds to the value?
Extra 0.2L doesn't seem like much (yes, there's a bit more to it than that, I know). The S's are peppy, but I know some folks that are "badge ******" who want to have as much 'badge' as they can get, and is the only reason they got it.
Lol!! Some people...
The C4S and Turbo S were the only 'S's in the 996 range. All the Mk2s have 3.6s. C4S has a M96/03 engine but with all of the other Turbo hardware; brakes, suspension, AWD, and hips. One could remove the AWD to make a C
2
S *strokes chin thoughtfully*
.
As to how much the "S" adds to the value, who knows. But it adds a whole lot to the FUN quotient!!
________________
'02 C4S
'06 993
"86 carrerra
'82 944 T
'74 carrera
"72 911S
Nope, because it was a trade-in.
But I got the Turbo at a really good price so I figured it all balanced out in the end.
It was a spur of the moment ordeal; if I had known ahead of time that I would get a Turbo this soon, then I would have tried to find a private buyer so the CPO warranty would at least transfer.
See... this is what happens when you get idle hands and start "window shopping" on Autotrader.
///Michael
I used Edmunds to price out the car I just bought. No matter how the seller will argue with you, it's pretty darn accurate.
When you do a PPI, make sure you do a leakdown test AND a DME data dump... you might be surprised on what you find. On the DME dump, there are 2 types of "over-revs". 1st is the normal one where the engine is redlined. The 2nd could be disastrous when the redline is reached or passed mechanically (i.e. - shifting from 5th to 2nd... or 4th to 1st... etc, you get the point). I also bought a paint meter from highline 2 for $225 shipped.
Also, DO NOT believe anyone when they say the car has "not been painted"... they all lie! The paint meter doesn't lie....
Mabuhay, Are the two revs type std. points to get out on a DME dump?
What do You mean with painted, painted as in "repaint panelparts" or anything else?
I might be out for a c4S and startig to build my own buers guide...I'm purely a long time 964 guy so i'm new to what You can get out of the moderns cars.
/f
Yes, there are two points that the DME counts. 1) It counts how many times the car was revved to redline. 2) It counts how many times the engine was redlined due to a "missed shift". I.e. - redline where the driver inadvertently shifted from 5th to 2nd (or similar) and the engine was spinning
past
the normal redline point...very very very bad.
By painted, a lot of people claim that the car "has never been painted and never in any accidents". The paint meter thickness meter proved otherwise... But it only works on the metal body panels and not on the front or rear bumper which is plastic.
One note of caution, and you may know this already if you've been using a paint meter: you have to know the variation in thickness as it comes from the factory to know what qualifies for an out-of-spec paint thickness you observe in the field. Maybe out-of-spec reading is a gross one, which I'm sure is easy to spot; IDK. I can't imagine those factory specs are published.
The variation in thickness would be small from the factory. On my car, most panels were 4.0 to 5.0. Some parts of the hood were in the high 3's - probably due to buffing. But it would be VERY apparent if you find some spots that shoot the meter to 8's or 12's. Or even 20's - showing that there's "bondo"... They key thing is to measure a lot of points within one panel.
ok that is GOOD to know.
Got it with the paint, question, is it not possible do the same as on older car, check the org. seal on the "underside" (the side against the earth) of the fenders, sorry about my poor english when in comes to mech terms... If a panel is taken away it is rarely the bodyshop do the org, seal style on it. Also org welds should be possible to identify or?
/d
Just because the panel has not been "replaced" does not mean that it has not been repainted. For example, what if they kept the original body panel, but fixed the dent using "bondo"?
Very true but what i'm afraid of is bigger things, dents that had been done by cardent or similar I could live with. I'm not familiar with "bondo". I guess i'm a real amateur when it comes to look at a 996
ok got it. Rev 1&2 is really good to know though, not heard that before. Thanks.
Measure paint could be useful as well, magnet I heard someone use as well.
I know this has been mentioned before and I don't know if it was here, renntech, or 6speed. Anyway, I read that the 996 ignition ranges aren't necessarily helpful as the rev limiter is not 100% reliable in "stopping" the engine at the redline.
Having said all that, spending a brief amount of time (i.e. less than a second) at 300rpm over redline wouldn't concern me as much as spending that same amount of time at 9k rpm. But you wouldn't be able to accurately tell any of that because there are only 2 ignition ranges.
It looks like Porsche corrected that in the 997 w/ more ignition ranges.
///Michael
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