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Replace front air dam
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That's the reason why Porsche changed the front air dam on the 01's and up.
Leading evidence: 'Replace front air dam' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check coolant level and also' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
However, you may want to check your coolant level and also that there is no debris in the front air dams clogging up your radiator.
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Suggestion
If you are really spooked about it, take it in and have them run a coolant system check on your car.
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Suggestion
Coolant system is clean with new coolant bottle etc.
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Suggestion
The bmw issues is really quite a farce as I would rather have my p car running a little warm 190 than having the oil temp running rediculously hot in the 240 zone like that motor does which means lower life.
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The bmw issues is really quite a farce as I would rather have my p car running a little warm 190 than having the oil temp running rediculously hot in the 240 zone like that motor does which means lower life.
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I have a 99 996 that I purchased about 4 weeks ago. It seems that when I pull in the garage even after a short, easy trip, the car seems really hot. Temp gauge is within normal operating range, but my entire garage heats up and the cars seems to take a long time to cool down. Is this normal? Is this just a symptom of the water cooled engine?
I live in a cool climate and get the same thing. Engine ticking as it cools down. This is normal for all 911's. However, you may want to check your coolant level and also that there is no debris in the front air dams clogging up your radiator. One rennlister once found a dead squirrel in there
I have had previously many relatively high performance cars and I must admit that Porsche is the only one which suffers from temperature rise for example in normal (not race) track driving.
No BMW M3, Mercedes AMG, Audi S4 etc. I have driven on track has suffered from this problem at all.
My 2001 model 3.4liter C2 keeps the temp constantly at 190-210F when tracked at normal cool climate environment. I think this is quite high indeed.
For example in my previous car (BMW M3 2002 model) the temp gauge did not move one millimeter, tracked or not.
Is the third radiator kit only way to solve this problem??
Mikko
How do you know it's heating up above what they are intended? Are you going off the heat in the garage? I guess we're all asking the wrong questions: What size garage do you have? 1,2,3 or more car size...... This would make some serious differences.
-Eli
the relevant question is where it sits on the temp guage. The bmw issues is really quite a farce as I would rather have my p car running a little warm 190 than having the oil temp running rediculously hot in the 240 zone like that motor does which means lower life. This was first experienced and relayed to me on the last model m roadster, which the owner subsequently dumped after that alarming discovery.
That does seem high. The temperature gauge on my 2001 C2 shows as high as about 190 (the zero on 180) in stop and go conditions, and I live in Houston. It's on the eight of the 180 on the highway. At the DE in College Station this past weekend (quite hot and sunny), it did not get any higher than the zero.
Although the Porsche coolant is "lifetime", I've heard of gunk building up inside the system. A small amount would radically reduce the heat transfer capability. Have you flushed the system?
I live on Long Island (N.Y) The temp here today is about 75 degrees. I have an average sized one car garage. I watch the cars temp gauge very closely when driving and it seems to stay at 180. My concern is when I pull into the garage after just riding around town, the heat from the car seems to be excessive for such a short ride. The dealer says its normal, but i was more interested in what the "experts" have to say. Hence, my posted question.
Your engine temp is fine. Remember that most cars have insulation on the engine lid and the Porsche does not. The engine sits within inches of the body and the transmissioon of heat to the body is normal and nothing to worry about. Just be glad they don't use plastic for the hood like the Lambo which warp from the heat.
I wouldn't worry about it as long as you have no known coolant leaks. If your coolant level is within margin and the car is operating within the 'normal' operating temps its probably OK as 1999Porsche911 above says.
If you are really spooked about it, take it in and have them run a coolant system check on your car. Have them do a pressure test. You may be loosing coolant a little at a time from the expansion tank, which will most likely drip onto your driver side muffler pipes. When it does this you begin to see a slight drop in coolant but never see a puddle on the floor because the coolant 'burns off'. Its fairly common for coolant tanks to leak at the very bottom of the tank.
Also, have them test the coolant to see if the acid levels are high. If so, your coolant may not be performing within its normal operating range and the system needs to flush and fill. Its also possible that your coolant gage is kadywampus...but I think that would be pretty rare.
All 98's, 99's, and 2000's have - not necessarily over heating problems - but more like excessive heating problems.
That's the reason why Porsche changed the front air dam on the 01's and up. If you notice it has more of a scoop in it to grab air into the rads. The previous design WITHOUT the 3rd radiator does not suck in enough air.
Just for people's information, be aware that some of you are running hotter than you think. On all the 3.4 engines I have tested, here is the correlation of the temp needle and the actual coolant temp:
Needle between the "8" and the "0" in 180 is about 190F
Needle covering the line on the left side of the "0" is about 200F
Needle covering the line on the right side of the "0" is 215F
The Porsche gauge leave alot to be desired. A scanner will give you actual temperature.
I called Foreign Affair in FL. They want $772 for the third radiator kit. They are obviously quite proud of it. A quick look at the Carnewal www site shows them listing it for 395 euros (about 500 bux or 263 squid). Where u get it for #130 again??
Marcus
Just got back from a drive over in the sierras, outside temp was 50 degrees, i was going uphill, not excessively spirited, my temp needle passed the "0" and almost hit the line past the 180 numbers. I had to slow down, shift up and coast as much as possible to keep it from hitting that line. When i finnally stopped, i found my right radiator about 1/3 blocked with leaves and a 7-11 cup(?) that i had sucked in. Removed those and temp was about the left side of "0". THis thing has always run hot, often well into the 0 or just past... full fluids, no leaks. Very worried about possible heat coming this summer...
According to a Porsche service advisor in Palm Springs, if that needle ever clears the 180 and hits the next line, stop the car and let it cool off. Something is wrong.. That is what he told me.
I just did a 1200 mile run from vegas to nebraska, much of it at 95 - 100mph in 104 deg in Nevada with the AC on. Needle seemed to like to split the the zero for the most part. Back in Nebraska, just tooling around town in stop and go, 85 deg out (night time) either splitting the zero or slightly to the left of zero. Coolant system is clean with new coolant bottle etc. No cracks/leaks.
Maybe if I get unlazy this weekend I'll break out my snap-on infrared temp gun and shoot a few
places on the engine and radiotors and see what the temps are. My guess is splitting the zero
is prolly about 200 deg. It does seem a little warm...but then looking at that engine compartment
I can see there is no place for heat to go!
Marcus
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