Rear Cabriolet drains

I thought I would check the rear drains out so I reviewed some older threads. Question: I have rear speakers and it has been said that if you remove the speaker you can access the drain without removing the entire side trim piece. True or false Question: what is the procedure for removing the rear side trim pieces if necessary? TIA

True. The main basin is behind the speaker. there is also an �overflow� corrugated hose you can access from behind the speaker - it�s actually not that important though. The drain in the basin is what clogs. Also make sure to address the outlet in front of the rear wheels behind the fender liner.

In the future, you may want to go on Amazon and purchase a tuba-cleaning brush...which is basically a spiral brush snake, a long flexible shaft. I've used it every spring and fall before placing the car into winter storage.

Hose “IS” very important mine cracked and came off I replaced it with some clear tubing with hose clamps. Clogged outlet that the corrugated pipe connects to.in front of rear tire behind plastic splash shield. Parts car. hose connects to outlet in other picture.

If hose disconnects water goes in rear footwell.

All good advice. I removed the speaker and was confronted with a sheet of plastic that had to be eased out. It appears to there to help direct flow into the basin. Then I got a good look at the drain holes. in the parts car picture above I�m not sure what I�m looking at there? no reference points that I am familiar with.

The catch tray you see behind the speakers is located just below and forward of where that corrugated tube in the parts car picture attaches to chassis. You have to kind of feel your way to this spigot on chassis. This corrugated tube commonly falls off, breaks or disconnects from chassis spigot as shown on parts car picture.

Better pictures.

Yes, excellent pics. Thank you. Is there a consensus on the need for that valve on the drain that is in the wheel well? Spring cleaning would be a lot easier if it disappeared�..

Quotes source post: 19462403

my vote is for delete - it prevents rodent ingress but given that the drain is behind the fender liner that risk is small, and needs to be weighed against the nonspeculative risk of overflow water damage to the interior. The corrugated tube btw is interesting, I went through many iterations of testing my drain system and when stationary no water reached the tube. I believe it is only useful if for instance driving and cornering hard in rain, such that water is forced laterally and overflows the main runoff channels. That�s the only situation I can think of where water could make it to the secondary drain. I never saw any water run in the corrugated hoses even when pouring a gallon directly into the clamshell gaps. In other words, it�s important to have but doubtfully the primary culprit when there is an interior leak.

I'm getting my car wet under the (right side) leather backseat when raining hard or washing with pressure washer. Is the problem the white hose that goes to wheel well(?) maybe? Mpfaff posted earlier a picture of this. I have earlier fixed the black corrugated hose and cleaned the drains.

Quotes source post: 19463522

The rigid white hose IS the drain so if you cleaned the drain, that�s what you cleaned. It�s possible/likely you still have blockage. My advise would be to remove the entire rear passenger trim panel to allow visualization and troubleshooting.

Quotes source post: 19463601

How big of a job this is?

Quotes source post: 19463616

Not hard. Kind of necessary to address drain issues. Need to remove speaker, seatback anchor, couple screws under the seatbelt trim. Then if memory serves it pops out from the bottom and lifts up. Putting the panel back on is a little tricky if you haven�t done it before. Pelican website and the Projects book have details, under the replacing carpet section. For a shop I�d estimate remove/replace as 1 hour labor.

Quotes source post: 19463627

Yeah that was not too hard. After further inspection I noticed the water drip pan was cracked, to be more specific the water rail that leads into the pan. There are some marks on the side of hydraulic cylinder so maybe there were some collision between them. Changing the whole water drip pan seems much more work? I probably end up using appropriate sealant.