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YOUR RESEARCHCEL - Help?!
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But I"d take the car back and ask that the various VarioCam Plus sensors/actuators be thouroughly tested/checked out.
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Hi All,
I got my first p-car last Sunday - a CPO'ed 2003 Cab. Beautiful car and ride - it totally salvaged my day as I was in a pretty bad mood since the Patriots lost.
Anyways, I had a bit of a problem the next day. I'm a totally noob to p-cars and frankly not handy with cars in general. So, I'm just going to describe what happened.
I took it out for a good ride the next day. I drove home (roughly about 45 miles) . As I was approaching home, I took a a slow right turn and suddenly the engine stalled. I didn't think that I stalled it but didn't think much of it. So, I just tried to restart the car. I turned off the ignition and tried to restart. The engine wouldn't turnover! All electronics working fine, 3/4 tank of gas and engine would just making the clicking noise. I tried waiting a few minutes and restart the car. I did this a few times to no avail.
Finally, thinking I may have flooded the engine (although, I don't think possible with a fuel injection car, I put it in first, turned the ignition and floored the gas. It started! Thank god.
However, the next two time I started the car the engine didn't rev fully, kind of cut out and the check engine light went on. It was a solid light - no blinking. And the computer said - Check engine light on - ok to drive to dealer (or something like that).
I drove it around a bit more and after a little while the engine sounded normal when starting up the car. However, the check engine light was still on.
I made an appointment to have the car checked at the P-dealer. The next morning, when I started the car - it sounded totally normal and NO CEL?
I called the dealer and was told no need to bring car in. Sensor in p-cars are sensitive and since it's off there is nothing to worry about. BTW, never touched the gas cap during this whole issue.
I went to Autozone to have them read the codes and see if anything was going on. They tell me that they are allowed to read codes everywhere in the US except California? Anwyays, they told me to go to the garage down the street where they will check it for free.
Long story short - they find: Code P0336 - Crankshaft position Sensor "A" range/performance. Tech found resistance on sensor out of spec.
So, my questions are:
could this have caused my engine to stall AND not start up again for awhile?
Is this something I need to replace soon and is it covered under CPO warranty?
Is there something else I should be worried about?
Thanks so much for reading this long post. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!
Don't know what the code is or what the description of the code is but.......you have a CPO'd car. My book says that is a warranty. Take it back to where you bought it. Costs should be covered.
+1 the newer CPO warranties (which you have) are just like new car warranties and cover everything except wear and tear items.
And crank positioning sensor is not a wear & tear item.
For your info, wear & tear are things like: brakes, tires, rotors, clutches, wiper blades, serpentine belts, air filters, etc etc etc.
Yes. A critical DME sensor reading was found to be implausible and the engine controller could refuse to allow the engine to start because the sensor reading is critical to the engine controller'a ability to well properly control the engine.
There are tests that can be done to confirm/eliminate the sensor.
The tech can command each banks' VarioCam (I think your car has a VarioCam Plus system) actuator to activate or deactivate and note the camshaft position sensor outputs and know if the actuators are working properly, or if the sensors are not working properly.
Sort of related: My 02 Boxster just got out of the shop after having its passenger side VarioCam solenoid and actuator replaced. The engine always ran, started, but the idle was rough (up to 1K and down to under 600 to the point the engine felt like it might stall). Once underway the engine ran ok.
Check engine light on. Error code: P1341.
The tech tested the solenoid and replaced it. However, the symptom came back again after I had the car a few days and the engine had to be opened up again to replace the actuator too.
Anyhow, you need to be sure that you have paperwork that lists your concerns and states what the tech found to build a paper trail in case, well, just in case.
But I"d take the car back and ask that the various VarioCam Plus sensors/actuators be thouroughly tested/checked out. And be sure you get a copy of the paperwork showing what was done and what was found, or not found.
If you get any push back, then stress that with your *new* (to your) car's unacceptable behavior -- engine dying/refusing to start -- you have lost all enjoyment of your *new* car.
Point out that a big factor in your purchase of the car was the dealer's claims of superior service, modern facility, factory trained techs, etc.
If you continue to get push back then mention that if the dealer can't resolve this issue to your satisfaction and soon then you have to feel you were misled about the dealer's capabilities in this area and this is consumer fraud.
Too late for you and I don't mean to add insult to injury, but for the benefit of others, your experience points out *why* a longish test ride/drive is a ery important early step in buying a used car.
Any used car. Even a CPO car. (I like to point out CPO means 'certified *probably* ok'.)
(And to be honest, when I bought my 03 Turbo (CPO car) I did not take it on a longish test ride/drive. But the car had been driven some the day prior to when I bought it by a salesman demoing the car to some other person interested in the car -- I was there this day and watched the salesman/prospective buyer not arrive at a deal -- so the short test ride/drive I did the day I bought the car I felt sufficient. Besides I wanted the damn car! Oh baby did I want that car! Sorry. Lost my head there. Anyhow, I got lucky.)
Your next day drive covered enough distance that my guess is a problem that was present when you bought the car reappeared.
Sincerely,
Macster.
No need to check for a pod. I'm still here and I'm still me.
I show emotion once in a while. You should have seen me when I signed a CC slip for $1500 the other day for a Boxster VarioCam actuator solenoid job then another $1500 CC slip for the VarioCam actuator.
It wasn't pretty.
But the Boxster's running just fine, again, at 238K miles.
But now the Turbo's a bit sick. Clutch accumulator and from a fluid leak the techs told me today the slave cylinder's bad as well.
Thankfully, though the Turbo's still under CPO warranty so I won't get quite as emotional when I pick up the Turbo early next week. Well, I might give it a hug, while no one's looking, but that's all.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Fwiw, based on my Mercedes' experiences anyway, crank shaft sensors don't usually "kind of fail" or intermittantly fail. Usually, they are either good or bad. But at a first sign of trouble, they should be replaced asap. Just MHO.
relinuca
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