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YOUR RESEARCHHere is my plan...
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Replace engine in
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OIl Level/Emp sensor it cant be swapped engine in from what I've heard..
Leading evidence: 'Replace engine in' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check any vacuum leaks' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
and inspect the oil pump gears to see if they�re good to continue using.
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Suggestion
You'll want to have all of the various gaskets on hand so you can replace any that have been leaking (if you don't just do them all.) I also replaced all of the various sensors/senders/regulators and such but I'm a bit of a nut.
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New owner of a 996 C2, with 77k miles. There is no previous documentation of IMS bearing done. It is an automatic. I have an excellent Porsche repair facility near me, and we spoke about the IMS, they have done hundreds of replacements. So, this is how we plan to move forward:
1. Oil analysis, and bore scope (remove pan) If things looks alright then..
2. Pull motor and trans.
3. Replace IMS, and RMS.
4. FCP timing chain kit
5. UAOS
6. Injectors and fuel filter
7. CSF radiator kit w/center radiator
8. LN water pump kit
9. RSS engine mounts, and OE trans mounts
10. Check for any vacuum leaks, and repair.
11. Clean throttly body
12. FVD brake lines, chk pads and rotors
Are there any other parts needed for UAOS? What other items, while the engine is out, do you recommend replacing? Any help is appreciated.
Is it an early car? If yes, I'd consider leaving the dual row IMSB in there.
Bore scoring shouldn't be a big risk on a 3.4 but a bore scoping is a good way to be sure.
If the car runs well, I'd just drive it while keeping on top of regular maintenance. Save that money and keep it aside for repairs should the car need them.
LN Engineering Oil Pump Drive Shaft
https://lnengineering.com/chromoly-o...hex-drive.html
and inspect the oil pump gears to see if they�re good to continue using.
If you have the budget, and you�re replacing it with a factory/quality part, then replacing the oil pump wouldn�t be a bad idea.
The LN oil pump drive shaft is a superior part to the OEM, however. Replace that regardless of your oil pump plans.
Here�s a link with some details about this upgrade.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post13535965
it also mentions changing the oil pump relief spring and piston, which slipped my mind. If you decide to keep the car�s oil pump, at least change the spring and piston. A new one ought to have these already installed.
edit:
i would also reconsider changing away from OEM-style motor mounts. it may lead to a decreased lifespan of the engine.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/1300626-rss-996-engine-mounts-too-much-vibration.html
edit2: you may as well replace the alternator-starter y-cable, too.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/870715-alternator-starter-cable-replacement-simplified-2.html
Looks sharp. Is that Seal Gray?
Re timing chain kit- replacing any of the timing chains requires completely tearing down the motor to split the case. So you're not going to do that. It's not a VR6 where the timing chains are a breeze.
Congrats. Great color!
You have a good list and the guys made alot of good suggestions. Since the engine is out, consider replacing the ignition coils and spark plugs as well. Have your indy also take a good look at the coolant and powersteering lines. Eventually you will spring a leak from an old line. Might as well give them a solid lookover and replace anything questionable.
You may save yourself some future headaches if you replace the oem engine mounts with oem or Rein instead of something harder.
With the UAOS, go with the track version even if you dont track your car. It can handle between 1-2 quarts of extra oil. What this means is you won't have to loose any sleep if you accidentally overfill the oil above full. Not to mention you won't have to worry about parking on a hill or canyon carving.
Good luck with the refresh. It's painful when you pay the bill, but nice to know you have the added bonus of new parts and durability.
Just did something similar to my 2000 that I've owned since late 01. Recommend you first get a scanner and baseline all of the dme outputs such as cam deviation, MAS, fuel trims, o2 sensor numbers, etc. By baseline, I just mean see what your "before" numbers are and compare to spec. As to your plan, you can replace the two cam timing chains but it is the cam chain guides that you'll want to replace and tensioners for sure. You'll also be able to replace the IMS to Cam chain guides easily (given the other stuff you are doing.) I'd strongly recommend a starter and oil/coolant heat exchanger as they are so easy to get to with the other work you are doing. I'd also replace the alternator and pulley kit (3 pulleys). Replace all of the little vacuum hoses/fittings too - cheap and easy with what you are doing. Big yes to the comments above on the oil pump. Esp that shaft and spring. You don't mention spark plugs and paks? And you'll likely need/want new spark plug tubes but at least the o rings. You'll want to have all of the various gaskets on hand so you can replace any that have been leaking (if you don't just do them all.) I also replaced all of the various sensors/senders/regulators and such but I'm a bit of a nut. And you'll want to do all of the coolant hoses on at least the back half of the car (there are a lot of them) - you need to remove them anyway, why put old ones back in? And don't forget to get new oil and coolant plugs - the old ones are likely beat up by now and you don't want to risk having one strip. oh, and at least re-boot your two drive shafts but you can also easily and for reasonable cost replace the inner bearing on them at that time. I also ended up replacing my MAS and O2 sensors. That was the only way I get fully back to spec with my fuel trims (very important to prevent bore scoring.) Car now leaps to life and so responsive. Love it. btw, I got most of my mechanical stuff from FCP Euro. Excellent returns policy if you want to have parts on hand, just in case. Suncoast has an excellent price on the 996.2 style coolant tank. Larger but it will fit - all of the hoses are the same as is the sensor. Good luck.
