ROW 030 for C4S with part numbers

I did a little research today while at Vertex. USA front shocks have the same part number as ROW 030. Both are 996-343-043-26. The rear shock part numbers are different. The ROW are 996-333-051-40. Springs are of course different. 996 343 533 30(504) pink/blue Front 996 333 531 49(504) blue/red Rear All these parts are for a c4s coupe. Cabrios have different numbers, if someone needs them I can post too. I didnt have time to crossreference the sway bars. I think I am going to do only the springs because its much cheaper and I might eventually change to something else. Rene

Oh I forgot. The guys at vertex were very helpful. I bought a shnell short shift from them too. Has anyone changed just the springs and left the rear USA shocks?

Are you going to put them in yourself? A big part of the cost is installation, It seems foolish to me to go through all the work and alignment to just change the springs and not go to a new shock matched to the spring. Just my opinion. I'm running the x-74 suspension (yours would be x-73) and I love it. andy

I wont be installing it. I have a friend that will be doing it at his house. He knows what he is doing and only works on porsches. I dont think it will make a huge difference since the C4S comes with something like USA 030 shocks although I dont really like the rebound on the rear shocks. I wish there were more C4S out there with suspension mods. Searches really havent turned anything up.

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I have Turbo PSS9's on my C4S... great ride but a bit too soft even at full stiff rear. The spring rate is soft but then again, I don't mind the nice ride. I hear the X73 is firmer and I'm sure the other options out there are the same (i.e. JIC coilovers, KW coilovers, H&R coilovers, etc) I have these alignment settings and so far so good: -1 deg front camber 0.36 front toe out -2.5 deg rear camber 0.4 rear toe in

I suppose you are doing this just to lower it to ROW height? Just the springs should be alright. Doing the full X73 lowers the car more and stiffens the car up noticeably. My regular drive goes through a fairly long segment of open highway with bad expansion joints. It was bearable with the C4S OEM sports suspension. With the X73, I have to keep reminding myself of how excellent the car is at the track each time I go through that highway. It is especially noticeable for me, 'cuz I have a sofa on 4 wheels, aka Volvo, as my DD.

I am doing it to loose some under-steer and level the car out. I dont like the way the car sits higher in the front than the rear. Hopefully by lowering the front it will put more weight on the front gaining some steering.

. Heh-heh, that US heads-up stance can indeed be quite bothersome. Darn the US bumper height laws. Not so sure the minimal lowering with the ROW springs will correct the inherent understeer that much, though. If you are more after improving performance, here's a little trick with the C4S that does not require changing the suspension. Slow in, fast out. Be a heartbeat slower at turn in, get on the gas a heartbeat earlier before the apex, and you'll find that the AWD front wheels will dig in around the apex . You'll find your exit speed noticeably faster than our RWD brethren, and you'll maintain that speed advantage all the way down the straight as you pass them.

Rene I'm pretty sure you have part of this incorrect. I went through this myself last Fall for my C4S. It is the front (not rear) shocks that are different. Logically this makes more sense, because the front lowers far more than the rear. I had several conversations by email with Gert Carnewal and then phone and email with Suncoast. Gert insisted that all four shocks were different. Suncoast could find no different part numbers for rear shocks, so I didn't change them. Both agreed that sway bars are the same. I did the install last Fall. It was a great change. Mike

I'm leaning towards the euro set-up too instead of the PSS9's. So what is the final consensus on which parts need to be changed and which do not?

The parts for front struts, front springs, rear shocks and rear springs are ALL different for ROW C4S. I highly recommend you have this done at a dealership. There is no need to change the rear, the 10mm difference will not help the problem in the nose. The front ROW C4S springs and struts (both 20mm lower) will make a HUGE difference on the track. You will however lower your front spoiler by 30mm if you elect to modify only the front geometry. I found that running 245/40/18 front and 335/30/18 rear tires corrects the scraping spoiler problem, and doesn't hurt around corners either...

I am going to recheck the part numbers but I am pretty sure they are the same. I know that some of the numbers superceeded other numbers. Maybe they were different then and the same now? I have all the printouts infront of me except the ROW front shock. If anyone has access to PET it is illistration 402-01 hopefully they can post the part numbers for the shocks.

my car is a C2 and the dealer in Orlando is quoting me 11 hours of install plus alignment time. Is this much time accurate ?

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11 hours? Does it include a 7-hour lunch?

ArneeA- how do your tires hold up with those settings on the street. This is not my daily driver but I do drive it alot.

I have the same settings as ArneeA. There's a few more available negative degrees of camber in the rear, but -1 in front is max in the X73 without changing the links or flipping the mounts. Tires hold up fair with those settings, inner wear not too bad. That comes with a few caveats, though. I make it a point to use the street tires occasionally on the track and not just the track tires, so that helps even out the wear. I also like like the P-Zero Assims, contrary to most everyone here, as the tire comes with beefier inner tread compared to other tires. On the track with the track tires, Sport Cups, the rears wear out evenly. The outer tread on the front tires wear a little more. A bit more negative camber will help, but I'm not too sure I want to compromise street driving any more than I already have. You may also notice a little more tramlining on uneven pavement when street driving. Small price to pay for the quicker turn-in at the track.

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Seems off by at least a factor of 2. When dealers quote numbers like this, are they saying: We don't have a tech who can do this We will probably screw the job up, so pad the labor to allow for stuff we break Hey, it's a Porsche - everything costs more on these things! Just wondering.

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What Palting said. There's some tramlining but it's tolerable. Granted, my rear toe isn't the most aggressive. It could be set to zero and the car would be fun with the rears coming out more often and the AWD kicking in to pull the car out of the turn. As for tire wear with those settings, I can't comment on that yet. I rarely have time these days to drive the car but when I do, I drive it "spiritedly" in the canyons, which helps with the even tire wear, esp with the -2.5deg rear camber. Turn in is crisp with the front setting. But like I said, some less rear toe in would be even better - at *some* compromise of high speed stability.

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yes, i think you are right. Like ArneeA said as well a long lunch too. I will order the M030 kit from Sunset and need to find an Orlando Indy to do this.