38 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHDIY: Frunk / Trunk Release - dead battery
Leading reported evidence
Replace 996.2
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Suggestion
Kill two birds with one stone.....Go in and clean the crap from between the rads and the condenser both sides and you will find the frunk release cable en-route on that diy job...
Leading evidence: 'Replace 996.2' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'lincoln park area' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean crap' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Kill two birds with one stone.....Go in and clean the crap from between the rads and the condenser both sides and you will find the frunk release cable en-route on that diy job...
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
It is real tight, but you can wedge your head under the bumper cover and look through the radiator cut outs and see the cable running along the bumper beam.
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Clean crap
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion
Kill two birds with one stone.....Go in and clean the crap from between the rads and the condenser both sides and you will find the frunk release cable en-route on that diy job...
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Suggestion · Original poster
It is real tight, but you can wedge your head under the bumper cover and look through the radiator cut outs and see the cable running along the bumper beam.
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Suggestion
If either of those wires or levers are broken then I have re-routed both back and front cables so I can easily pull either from the outside without using door keys or screw drivers to get in the car.
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Suggestion
We had a local member with a 997 reporting at the GTF yesterday that something else electrical was wrong with his car which prevented him from using the fuse panel connection points to jump start the car, had to get the car towed.....
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Suggestion
On a separate note, I found the secondary release cable for my trunk to be under the left tail light housing, the million dollar question is that while I have a mechanical release for the trunk beside the driver seat, IF I needed to use the secondary trunk release which is under the left tail light, how do I get the trunk open to remove the left tail light before gaining access to the cable?!
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
38 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
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Generation: 20261026T120458Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
First off, whomever designed the locks on the Frunk/Engine cover for the '99 cars has a special place in hell reserved for him.
Second, I spent an hour last night trying to find the front release cable through the right blinker. That was USELESS. So using my superior skills of trying to figure out how to open a very basic trunk. I decided to look at the source, the latch, from under the car. Here's my method for opening the trunk.
My car does not have the 3rd radiator, but it has the cut outs on the bottom of the bumper cover.
It is real tight, but you can wedge your head under the bumper cover and look through the radiator cut outs and see the cable running along the bumper beam.
Use a coat hanger, reach up through the cut outs and pull the release cable down.
Once the frunk was open I placed the cable in the bumper supports so that in the future I can reach under the car (ie not crawl under) and pull the cable.
SPECIAL NOTE - careful with your head, it is a tight fit under the front of the car. I gave myself a black eye from wedging my head under the car.
yes, my bumper cover is in bad shape - previous owner street parked it in Chicago and liked to tailgate.
I wonder if it was the Lincoln Park area. It saddens me to see people there with more money than brains(also posers than real enthusiasts) street park their cars that are $100k or more everyday. This while stupid people that can't parallel park ruin both bumpers and the snow plows throw up all sorts of snow/ice/salt on the cars, not to mention dumb drivers that knock off side mirrors and bikers that can't ride worth $hit place nice scratches on the sides. [Rant Off]
Glad you found the cable. Mine was tucked and coiled up under my headlight. Thank God I found this out when I was taking off my headlights to clean them or else I would've never been able to get to it in a real situation.
Yeah, definitely worth moving it to a reachable location while doing maintenance than getting stranded.
The bumperettes were used on my car. The front plate mount was also beat up. All minor cosmetics that are easily repairable with a re-spray, but PITA none-the-less.
Kill two birds with one stone.....Go in and clean the crap from between the rads and the condenser both sides and you will find the frunk release cable en-route on that diy job... As you have the full bumper off the car, re route the loop end of the cable to come out at the front of the car in the air scoop. That way it can be opened from the front. Easy as falling off a log.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um-h2aUJHY4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xhw_hWpisY
My write up was more for those who get stuck in the situation after the trunk has locked. But yeah, moving the release cable while the front bumper is off is a great idea.
Only if you have another charged battery handy, and a set of jumper cables. If not, then it's either the release cable or a fire axe. Stupid of Porsche to make the hood latch electro-mechanical anyway. Is there any reason? Has anyone ever not bought a sports car because of the cable-operated hood latch?
As long as you have a key to open your car, you can access the fuse box and jump point there to open your frunk. It is a two step process but better than nothing I guess.
We had a local member with a 997 reporting at the GTF yesterday that something else electrical was wrong with his car which prevented him from using the fuse panel connection points to jump start the car, had to get the car towed.....
So it's good to pre-plan these things.
On a separate note, I found the secondary release cable for my trunk to be under the left tail light housing, the million dollar question is that while I have a mechanical release for the trunk beside the driver seat, IF I needed to use the secondary trunk release which is under the left tail light, how do I get the trunk open to remove the left tail light before gaining access to the cable?!
Lol, I was thinking about this too, considering this is the default way they come from the factory IIRC. I haven't looked closely enough to see if you could get a coat hanger under the taillight or not. But even if it did fit to fish it out, who is gonna have a coat hanger on them in all situations?
As you know, there is only one key hole for both doors. I was worried about electrical drain on my car while looking for the source of my battery draining. So I had the frunk open, battery connected, locked the car, disconnected the battery, shut the frunk, found out the mechanical release locks when the car is locked.
But yeah, if the battery was connected, the way you stated would be much easier.
Oh yeah keep bragging for you 99 guys, optional LSD, dual row, cable throttle, cable frunk, etc.
Actually starting in '00, they changed to electric frunk.
My car is a MY 2000 and it has mechanical cable release beside the driver seat, it is an early MY 2000 though, build date of Nov 1999 and registered with the original owner in late Jan 2000.
Yes I should/do have the dual-row IMSB.
"^ I'm sure there is a logical German answer from Stuttgart to answer this question."
The logical answer is to access to the Engine compartment Battery Jumper lug - using the rear (left Bumper access) emergency cable and jump start the car. The Bentley manual has a detailed photo how-to for access. Basically remove three screws - one up in the wheelwell and two at the bottom of the bumper. The cable "should be" between the heat shield and the plastic Bumper cover just ahead of the left tail lamp.
Note: as mentioned above ("secondary release cable for my trunk to be under the left tail light housing") it is a good idea to check and see if it is not - and re-route it correctly. Mine was all in the tail lamp and buzzing. Some how I wounder if porsche expects the dealers to route these correctly after delivery as a theft protection during shipping?
So basically instead of a coat hanger, we have to track down a screwdriver instead. Lol
If you get stuck out and about, you better hope you can flag down another German car driver such as a BMW that has a toolkit in it.
Don't bother, the two times I got purposely and maliciously blocked while attempting to politely merge into a turn lane when driving the Porsche were both by BMW drivers.
Trying to flag the Bimmer drivers down will likely get you run over by them as they muster "One less damn Porsche drivers!"
Hey I resemble that comment. Lol. I own 3 bimmers but I have also seen lot of BMW drivers that are douchebags. I'll need to carry my bmw cap and shirt for such occasions.
That was you?!
But they will probably run you over extra hard for being a "traitor"!
I'm sure there will be drivers of all marques who are DBs, but somehow the two times I encountered this treatement were both by Bimmer drivers, even though I know a lot of friends with BMWs and none of them (that I know of) behave like that behind the wheels.
"So basically instead of a coat hanger, we have to track down a screwdriver instead. Lol"
So you folks all bought Carreras without factory Tool Kits? Maybe you don't have spare tires or jacks? - and you are to cheep to buy an Owners Manual or any books about that high performance Porsche you drive. Rennlist is a great place for good information, but lets start with some basic stuff... like a Screw Driver 101.
You're missing the point. If the battery dies out while we're out in the middle of nowhere and we don't have a 99-00 model. How are we suppose to get into the frunk to get to the toolkit if no one is around. No offense to rednecks out there but I don't carry a Leatherman on me at all times.
haha I feel sorry for all you that don't have the 99 jobs. As long as I have the key in my hand, I simply open the drivers door and pull either lever for back and front lids to open. If either of those wires or levers are broken then I have re-routed both back and front cables so I can easily pull either from the outside without using door keys or screw drivers to get in the car. Inside the engine compartment is a place to jump start the car if required. Can we all have a 'WHOO-WHAA' for the 99designers.. lol
You mean the same guys who designed the 911 without a glove box?
My guess is that, much like the glove box (or lack thereof), the mechanical solution was one driven by the accountants. I can't cheer for accountants...just can't do it.
-Eric
The front one I have re-routed inside the air scoop. Kneel on one knee and pull the loop end. The rear out by the tail pipe. Again down on one knee and pull the loop. Easy as falling off a log and they both work. Only to be used IF ever the wire to the lever by the drivers leg should disconnect or snap.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
