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YOUR RESEARCHTrouble Starting
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Replace based
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I thought your switch had to be replaced based on your 'no start' issue.
Leading evidence: 'Replace based' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace ;' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I ran over with my big league battery charger and jumped the fuse box to get into his trunk and then pumped 40 Amps into his Interstate battery.
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Took my car out for a ride today and I had some trouble starting it.
1. Put the key into the ignition
2. Turned to the ON but not start position
3. Waited for the oil check to complete + 5 secs
4. Clutch in; In neutral; most electical off (lights, climate etc.)
5. normal warning light display
6. turn and hold for a second or two in the start position
7. nothing happens - no turning over, no sound etc.
8. no voltage drop (reading was at around 12v); no warning lights
9. repeated about 5 times ... no change; on the 6th time it started normally
The car had been sitting for about a week. The temp is bit a colder these days but nothing else abnormal.
It is a 2004 911 c2. I have only had the car for 2 months and it is my first p-car so I don't have much experience to draw on. Car has had an oil change , brake/clutch fluid flush and a new clutch put within the last 5 weeks.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance!
Chris,
take your battery out and bring it to a place like Parts Source and they'll tell you in a couple of minutes if it's shot. Original Moll batteries are terrible and don't last more than 2-3 years at best. With the colder weather it doesn't take much for them to fail suddenly. Tossed mine out a year and a half ago and went with whatever was on sale at Parts Source at the time. You don't have to put in the exact same size since Porsche made the saddle adjustable...my new one is a group 48 size and it works perfectly. Link to the DIY:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2950
When the key is turned, if nothing happens, try to depress the clutch just a little farther. I have had a couple times when it was depressed, but just not quite far enough. A tiny bit more, and it fired right off...
Just a thought, happened to me - simple thing to try
Thanks Phil. The battery makes the most sense. If I drive the car everyday there is no problem. It seems to only be when the car has sat for 5+ days. Sadly one last drive tomorrow and it goes away for the winter. I will put a trickle charger on it ... but perhaps change the battery in the spring.
Thanks for the info. I tried that too ... it caught me a couple of ties when I first got the car. This time it is definitely different though as it only happens when the car hasn't been driven for a while.
I can't site anything too official, but I have been told that P-car batteries are known to drain their charge pretty rapidly when not driven, or placed on a trickle charge. Maybe yours was a little weak to begin with?
When the ignition switch goes it becomes hard to remove the key from the ignition... you still under warranty?
Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I replaced the battery this week and all starting problems have gone away. That was the cheapest outcome for sure!
Thanks for the advice.
A friend of mine with an 03 C4S went through the same ordeal today. I ran over with my big league battery charger and jumped the fuse box to get into his trunk and then pumped 40 Amps into his Interstate battery. Then switched it in 20 minutes to 120 Amps to start it and finally got it to turn over and run. He rarely drives the car, and wasn't aware of the tricks about these things, with respect to getting the trunk open without power.
He will be heading out to get a battery.
