Convertible Latch Cover Repair

So my convertible top was not closing properly. It would engage the latch than disengage and try to engage again in an endless loop. Turns out this was caused by the convertible latch cover breaking. I confirmed this by manually pushing in the micro switch in the latch receiver while the top was closing which fixed everything (and visually the latch is broken). I bought a new latch cover (which at $9 is going to be my cheapest 911 repair ever). There are several threads which make mention of cutting the new latch and gluing it on but nothing specific. Its a pretty easy repair but I took a couple of pics just to demonstrate. The whole repair took maybe 5 min You can see here where the cover has broken off Broken cover. Different angle. to remove the cover just pull on it. It snaps right out I clipped a hole in the circle so I could slide the cover on the pin Slide the cover onto the hook first. than snap the cover onto the pin using the gaps you cut in the circle. The picture is of the finished product. I did not use any glue. M

I just received this part in the mail along with some other parts I needed for my suspension refresh. Staying tuned as I did the same research and ended up in the same spot. Going to glue it cause if it doesn't hold it'll cost me a mere $10 to redo. I believe in my research I found someone had used Gorilla Glue. That was going to be my first stop.

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I edited the original post from a question to a how to as I ended up just doing the repair. Super easy. With it snapped into the pins it seams to hold fine but I only tested the top a few cycles. I figure I can always glue later M

Thanks - I'll probably do a combination of both. I was NEVER going to disassemble the whole latch to put that pin through the part like the factory for fear of messing it up. This will be the final repair in making my top work 100% flawlessly. When I bought it the cylinders were blown and this piece was missing. The PO showed me how to open the clamshell, lift the top manually, and then jab your pinky finger up into the microswitch to get the rear windows up. He lived with that for 8 years. Not this guy.... Cylinders were rebuilt last winter and some research proved to me this part is snapped of so high I didn't even notice until I looked closely. I kept saying to myself "if this hook were only A LITTLE LONGER it would engage that microswitch!"

I had a remarkably similar experience. My cylinders blew out shortly after taking ownership. Rebuilt and installed the cylinders and everything worked like a charm for a month or so. Than had an issue with one of the microswitches in the latch assembly. That took a long time to track down and fix. Worked great for almost a year. Than this latch cover. Hopefully that's the last of it I can't imagine manually throwing the microswitch for 8 years. That would just about kill me. Fixing things isn't that hard. Good luck and feel free to PM me if you have any questions M

I thought this was my problem too, so did the repair, but the roof still won't close properly. I had the top replaced previously so probably need to have it calibrated.

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what are your symptoms? the durametric has a calibration section. I believe the top needs to be open when you start but I�ve never run the full calibration

The latch tries to close before it is up and under the catch area. So i pull it in by hand and have to press the switch with a pencil...

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Sounds like you have two problems. 1) The latch not deploying at the appropriate location is either a) a calibration issue b) the computer does not know the correct position of the top. If you recently changed out the pistons make sure the piston is attached to the rheostat (its a oblong plastic piece with a hole in the center on the drivers side. It lets the computer know the position of the top. A bolt of the convertible piston slides through the hole, its easy to miss when replacing the piston) 2) If you need to use a pencil to activate the microswitch in the latch receiver its most likely due to the latch cover not being in place M

Thanks @ Makoto0406 Could you provide a part number, please. What model year is yours? Mine is a 2003 convertible. The hook looks a bit different i think. This is the "fragment" of mine.

YUP. That's it. Part number is 996-561-787-01-01C-M100 Mine is a 00 C4 but the mechanism should be the same

THANKS A LOT! I'll try to get it over here in Europe.

Took a photo of the hook. Yes, it's the same. Think the preowner did a useless shortcut by cutting the top part of the cover off and not install it correctly.

It’s a super easy fix and the part is cheap $10 right now at pelican parts. Mine has worked flawlessly now for over a year. good luck M

@Makoto0406 I already ordered the new cover. Will report how it went next week.

Parts arrived today. The new cover is a little bit different where the hook is. Modified the part as you suggested and installed it. Also use some double side tape - even i don't know if it will help. Everything works perfect now. Thanks so much! @Makoto0406 New and old cover side view. New and old cover rear view. New and old cover overlapping and difference - red dart. New cover installed.

My pleasure. Mines been going strong for over a year.

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Excellent write-up. I just did this and it works. Have you done a calibration using a Durametric? I have a small problem where the hook hits the frame briefly when closing. Then it backs off a bit and tries again successfully. I'm guessing that a calibration could fix this but I've been unable to find any instructions on how to do it. Do you start with the roof closed or open? Update: It lasted 4 or 5 openings and closings and then the new one broke. It is the flimsiest plastic part I've ever seen. I just ordered 2 more and will glue it this time. I tried re calibrating with a Durametric, but that function doesn't work (at least on my MY2000). I've heard other people say the same thing.

For anyone who did this fix and used glue, how is it holding up and where did you apply the glue?

I'm having issues with the hook cover popping off because the hook is digging onto the latch plate and scratching the paint off the latch plate. Are you saying the Durametric doesn't offer adjustment of the latch mechanism?

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I've seen a few people say the were able to use the Durametric to calibrate the top and a few who said it doesn't work. I wasn't able to get it to work. For the time being, I found a workaround for my closing problem. The hook would be extended and hit the top of the plate. Then it would back off and retry. The second time would work. Now I release the button when the roof is about 6 to 12 inches away and it comes down gently. Once it clears the plate, I press and hold the button again until it finishes the cycle. I'll have my indy take a look at it the next time I bring the car in for something else.

Just came across this. Have not used my convertible in almost 4 years due to "needing the latch assembly" (referenced the newer part 997-561-117-02 by indie mechanic). But seeing this, I need to explore what is actually broken in it. Since the hardtop latches (and I drive it as a coupe at the moment), could it just be the calibration and/or pencil to activate the microswitch? In which case a box of Ticonderogas will be the cheapest ever!