Oil leaks into coolant

Noticed a flashing light on the high end of the temperature gauge recently, went to my independent service and was told that they found oil in the coolant.....read some previous posts from drivers with the same symptoms which supports what the indie says: instead of trying to find the problem but unlikely to succeed, they suggest a new engine and cleaning out of the radiators etc. Looking at a total of $17,000.00....is it worth for my '00 996 Convertible with 88 0000 miles and a new transmission or should I have them try to locate and fix the problem? (My wife would rather see the car go, but I am a bit sentimental about this issue, I've never driven anything quite like it.)

so sorry to hear..... please keep us posted.

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How does indy know oil wasn't accidently added to coolant tank? At least one Boxster owner found one freeze plug in the head had blown and allowed wholesale mixing of coolant and oil. Found this of course after he removed the engine and did some disassembly. He removed engine -- to remove heads -- and found the freeze plug problem. He or his mech. fixed that, checked the bearings and some other things and found everything ok. drained the oil change the oil filter and added fresh oil and of course installed the engine into the car and flushed and refilled the cooling system and resurrected the engine and the car. Sincerely, Macster.

I would at least get a second opinion.

Let us know where you are located and perhaps someone can recommend a good mechanic near you who can properly diagnose the issue and give you some options. If you decide to sell the car as is please PM me. Thanks!

where are you? what car MY and style - call or contact Jake Raby... $17 you have options.... you owe it to yourself to at least explore those. Sorry about the news

We (the fabulous Dec '99 996 convertible and I) are located in Palo Alto, CA; the car has been serviced for its first 9 years at Carlsen Porsche in Redwood City, CA, more recently at European Auto in Sunnyvale, CA; it was there that the transmission had been replaced in the spring of this year, and I believe they are a knowledgeable and honest outfit. Thanks for all the advice so far, I will get a second opinion before moving on (and I'll talk to them about the possibility mentioned by Macster). My wife suggested having the car evaluated by Carlsen Porsche since they know its ins-and-outs.....does that make sense or should I bring it to Heyer Performance in Mountain View, CA, an outfit that does only Porsche service? Jake Raby...is he a rennlist member, and how could I contact him?

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Jake visits here. His father passed away recently and he's been off line and had his shop and its web site closed too I think for the last couple of weeks. Visit www.flatsixinnovations.com and from there you can get contact info for Jake Raby. Heyer I think comes highly recommended. Let me speak with a co-worker who knows the various engine rebuilders in the area. He runs a 914 fitted with a 993 in near race tune. Carlsen might be a good idea. But before you try Carlsen, call Rector Porsche in Burlingame and ask if you can arrange to visit -- without the car at first -- and speak with Pete (senior mechanic) about your car. Offer to pay a 1/2 hour labor charge. Might be the best $75 you ever spent. You can send an email to [email removed] (that's Hector Contreras) and he should get back to you shortly. He only checks voice mail once an hour or so but has a email/phone with him at all times.. I've seen several 911 engines in various stages of disassembly/reassembly at Pete's work area when I've been there. He can tear into these engines and put them back together as good as anyone I suspect. (One engine -- which I have pics of -- was in for a failed IMS which because the driver shut off the engine right away didn't take out the engine and as a result the engine was rebuildable.) Also, look up a guy who posts by the name of txhokie4life. He visits PPBB. He is the person who salvaged/resurrected a Boxster engine that had appeared to suffered a broken water pump but in fact upon further investigation when the water pump turned out to be ok was found to have lost one internal freeze plug. The engine was salvagable. You need to take your time and do some preliminary work so you know what is the right path for you. One easy solution, though expensive, is to have a new engine installed by a dealer. You can call around and get quotes -- be sure to note who you talked to, when, and write down all the numbers and get confirmation. Then before you have the work started get the same numbers on a estimate. At least one owner back east reported a dealer underbid other dealers and then tried to up the price afterwards. Because he took these precautions he was able to hold the dealer to its original bid. You might find a dealer that will make you a nice deal on the engine replacement. Many are hard up for work for their service department cause new cars sales are way down and many owners are holding off on even regular servicing. You get factory engine, dealer installation. 2 year, 24K mile warranty. (Check on warranty before you go ahead just to be sure.) Or you may find after talking it over with Pete at Rector that an engine removal so the problem can be clearly identified and an accurate assessment of the engine and its chances for repair made is called for. You want to avoid even starting the engine and of course having the car flat bedded hither and yon. A trip for my Turbo from Livermore to Fremont cost me approx. $175. Worth it though once you know where you want the car. Sincerely, Macster.

no affiliation, here is Jakes website - he is a member ID = Jake Raby http://www.flat6innovations.com/ I have heard good things and he might have ideas that you have not thought of....like I said, for this type of money, you owe it to yourself to ask a few questions from people who know these engines. Doesnt mean you will use him, just means you are finding out your options. GL

I am currently in process of attempting repair of my 99 996 C2 intermix problem. Another user Dharn55 and I have removed engine and tranny from car and found cylinder head crack near #1 spark plug recess. Removed head and had it repair/rewelded - about to start reassembly process. Dharn55 is done and his car is back on the road, I'm not done yet. The head repair and parts is still not cheap, but its significantly less than a new engine. My advice would be to think about your options. I did not want to spend that kind of money on my car which frankly has limited value, but lots of enjoyment from driving as you know. Your situation sucks, but you have company. TxHokiefor life also repaired a boxster intermix, and there is a youtube video collection of a guy who completely rebuilt his boxster engine for intermix. Tim S

Thanks for all the helpful advice so far, I'll make sure to pursue it and keep you guys informed.

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Co-worker confirmed the place in Mtn View. Heyer. Speak with Tony. He owns the place. Sincerely, Macster.

Hard to justify $17,000+ on a car that may be worth $20,000 or so if you put in the new engine. But don�t give up, there are alternatives. First, Porsche wants you to think that the only fix is a new (or remanufactured) engine. And most independent mechanics follow this line on thought. Why, because this is an incredibly profitable �fix� for Porsche. Keep in mind that the 3.4 engine that Porsche wants to sell you for $14,000-$16,000 was only $11,040 in September 2008 (from Suncoast or Sunset, I know because I had my intermix then and priced them) and was about $8,000 a year or so before that. And in Sept. 08 the 3.6 was only $8,500 and the 3.6 X51 was only $9,400. Do you really think that Porsche�s cost went up by $4,000-$8,000, or that the 3.4 costs more than a 3.6 or a 3.6 X51? Only the profit Porsche makes on the engines, particularly the 3.4, went up by that much, not the cost. Also remember that Porsche is going to take back your core as part of the deal, then remanufacture it at a cost of a few thousand dollars (maybe it is even $6,000-$8,000) and then sell it again for $14,000+ For years, part of the warranty replacement of engines required that the engine not be torn down to determine the problem. If you tore the engine down they would not accept it as a core. Why, because Porsche did not want the public to know what was happening to the engines or what it took to repair them. And the labor most Dealers want for an engine swap is way off. In my garage without a lift, etc. I can drop an engine in 4-6 hours, so 8-12 hours for the swap. I bet the dealer wants 15-20 hrs. for the job. As for independent mechanics, many are really good, but they have been caught up in the thinking/propaganda that Porsche has fostered on not fixing engines. And for years Porsche would not sell them parts or provide training. However, there are lots of other options. The odds are that the intermix you have was caused by a cracked cylinder head. It is almost always cylinder head 1-3, at cylinder #1, at the inner exhaust valve spring seat. Below are pictures of my cracked head, and Doug Dornbush�s cracked head Tim Sehorn (sehorntx above) had the same crack. The shop were both Tim and I had our heads fixed, Costa Mesa R&D, has seen many of these cracks. When I first called them about my cracked head, before I told them where the crack was, they said �oh sure, cylinder head 1-3, at the inner exhaust valve seat on cylinder #1, that�s where they always crack.� Here is a link to a Boxster engine rebuild, head cracked in the same spot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ComO...eature=related When I was looking at alternatives for the repair of my car I found three used 1-3 heads for sale, and everyone was cracked in the same spot!! (Of course Porsche denies there is any problem with the heads, or says it is caused by owner abuse!) You may be able to see the crack by removing the sparkplug and tube on cylinder #1, although you may have to remove the cam cover, cams, lifters and lifter frame to see it. If it is a cracked head the cost of the head repair was about $500 including a valve job. I have also included a picture of the repaired head. Another $700 or so in parts and 12+ hours in labor and you should be able to fix the cracked head. You can also buy a used cylinder head for $800-$1,000 (make sure it is not cracked) or a new cylinder head lists for about $,2,800, can probably be bought for $2,500-$2,600. So with a repaired head you should be less than $3,000, or with a new cylinder head less than $5,000. Or if you want to replace the engine used ones go for $5,000-$8,000, there is a shop in Southern CA that sells rebuilt engines, that last I saw was $8,000, but they were only $7,000 a couple of months ago. Or the ultimate would be to have Jake Raby at Flat 6 Innovations build you a motor, a little more than the Porsche remanufactured engine, but a far superior engine, big bore, upgraded parts, cylinders, IMS, rods, pistons, lifters, etc. The only reason I can think of for anyone to go with a Porsche engine is the warranty, but what a cost.

anyone looking for a good head? There is one for sale local for a fantastic deal.....PM me and I will try and get the details to you - not sure which bank, I did contact the guy, but forgot... Ed

Another rebuilt option is Strasse Auto in Newport talk to robert carries 1 year warranty. [phone removed]

ivangene - I am curious which side the head is. I found several 4-6 heads in good condition, but every 1-3 head I found was cracked when they were checked. Most of the sellers were surprised that the 1-3 heads were cracked when I told them were to look and they found the cracks. If you check with the various wreckers they usually have 4-6 heads, but good 1-3 heads are harder to find.

HUH - his ad is gone, was for $300 and had been there for a month? now its gone.. I will try and find the old emails Ed

Thanks for all the helpful advice so far. I did contact Pete at Rector in Burlingame, CA, and even though he'd like to take an in-depth look at the engine, he said that in 98% of all cases the engine will have to be replaced.....not what I wanted to hear but in terms of pricing he seems to be a bit less expensive than the $17,000.00 that European Auto in Sunnyvale, CA is asking for. I will talk to Tony at Heyer Performance as well....would a new engine (and a new transmission from this spring and a new clutch from 2008) increase the car's resale value or am I dreaming?

Dreaming - sorry maybe 10% higher to the right guy - I would be one of those "right guys" though

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New engine and transmission installed by dealer and with 2 year 24K mile (or longer) warranty may not increase the car's resale value over a comparable car with no engine or transmission problems and exhibiting no symptoms of any problems. What the repair does in your car's case is it restores resale value. Of course you could represent the new engine as increasing the car's resale value cause of the new engine, factory engine, and warranty. And of course you stress and can show the engine failed through no fault of your own. If you are a good used car salesman (even just this one time) you might actually sell the car for more than you otherwise would. But this will not be a net profit for you. Installing a new engine will probably not restore enough value to recoup 100% the cost of the new engine installation. If this were the case, if a new engine did, then people would be buying dead Porsches and installing new engines and flipping them for a profit. It is always easier to sell a running car. If you have a car that isn't running cause engine's got water in the coolant then either 1) no one wants the car; 2) anyone who wants it knows what it costs to put right -- worst case is a new engine from a dealer installed by a dealer -- and is going to make you a low offer with the worst case cost in mind but the idea he doesn't share with you he has a cheaper solution in mind. May not be a better solution but to this person it is cheaper and presumably better. You have to get all the options open to you in front of you along with their upfront cost and an estimate of the risk of any long term costs. For instance, a dealer installed engine with warranty represents a big upfront cost but with the warranty and provided you do not let the warranty expire on time but instead put some miles on the car/engine represents the lowest risk of incurring long temp costs. OTOH, sourcing some engine from a scrap yard and having it installed represents possibly the lowest upfront cost but had the highest risk of long term costs. You may get luckly and get a good engine. Or you may swap a bad engine for one that is going to go bad in a few months after a few thousand miles. The situation you are in is not a pleasant one. There are some tough decisions to be made and you don't have all the info, can't see into the future and have to make an educated guess. But make it after gathering some facts and talking it over with some people. Act in haste, repent in leisure. Sincerely, Macster.

It may be the case that in 98% of intermixes the engine IS REPLACED, but that does not mean IT HAS TO BE REPLACED.This is just the old/standard thinking. I was told the same thing by pretty much everyone I talked to when I had my intermix. This included several mechanics that I new and trusted, and the dealer where I bought the car. But it just isn't always the case. I firmly believe that a high percentage of the engines replaced for intermix could have been fixed. I fixed mine! And for someone to make the statement that it must be replaced without even seeing the car if incredible. Look, you have to drop the engine to replaced it or to fix it. So spend either the time to do it your self, or the money to have a mechanic drop it and take a look at the head. If it is the crack at #1 that is so common you can probably see it by just taking out the sprakplug and sparkplug tube as the crack ends up running down the chase in the head. You might need some penetrating dye to see it this way. Or you might need to atke off the came cover and take the cams off to see it. If it is this crack you can fix it for a couple of thousand dollars, and maybe actually teach your mechanic something. By the way I checked with Sunset Porsche and the 3.4 e-gas remanufactured engine is only $11,795.64plus the core charge. But if you give them your core it will be refunded. With shipping of the engine to your and the core back to them it should be under $13,000. My mistake on the price I gave earlier, I had been told they went up more. If your are closer to Florida than Oregon you should check with Suncoast, their pricing is usually the same. Again, don't just believe it when you are told that an intermix mean a new engine!!

AND there are options... did you contact Jake Raby yet? - My indy show is hoping someone will bring them a 3.4 so they can rebuild it. They know how to replace them already now that Jake is making case 1/2's they are excited to rebuild one.... I think your indy guy is looking for the easy way out with the most bang for his time and least risk. I agree with ^^ dont replace unless its your only option, you have way too much money still haning on the tree that will spoil if winter snow gets it, or you just really want a new (Porsche factory rebuilt) rebuild E

Also, before you spend $17,000 think about this. You could part out your car, or probably sell it to one of the Porsche wreckers (LA Porsche Dismantelers, Oklahoma Foreigh, DC Auto, etc. etc.) for $5,000 - $10,000, maybe more. Take this and the $17,000 and you have between $22,000 and $27,000. For that you could certainly find a 99' with lower miles, probably with a replaced enginewith a warranty. For $27,000 you can probably find a 02+ with a 3.6 engine, maybe a replaced one with a warranty. The economics of a Remanufuactured engine are just hard to make work. And Ivangene is right, try Jake Raby and get a big bore, etc. if you want to spend the sort of money a reman costs.

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Not a bad idea to see what one of the Porsche auto dismantlers would give the OP for the car. When my new (25 day old) 2008 Cayman S was hit by another car and the CS deemed a total loss as part of the settlement I retained salvage rights to the car. I called OK Foreign and was offered $17.3K for my car. I forgot who I talked to but he was willing to transfer 1/2 the money to my account now, then the other half when I called him back that I had a clear (salvage) title and where the car could be picked up by a truck he would arrange to pick up the car. I ended up selling the car through an auction facility for $20.7K but had that auction option not panned out I would have taken the Ok Foreign offer. No way I want to part out a wrecked or non-running car. Who wants his driveway or garage looking like a car junk yard? And the bother of having to advertise the thing, and the hassle of dealing with the people coming by, etc. Sincerely, Macster.

Thats a pretty good thought.... but the opposite is also true... You could find someone who has a wrecked one with a good motor and just buy a used motor ? There have been a couple here in the last year, there must be others. I bet for <$5k you could grab a used motor from a reputible outfit and have it drop shipped to your indy shop for install - but the clear picture is that $17k spent on a 99' is just way out of line in most peoples eyes. Check out this place I just found called Pcars.com the link should go to engine page, but there are lots of other pages. In engines there are 49 pages with prices of ?? entire engines from $1500-$50,000 ! LINK LINK LINK LOTS OF ENGINES ??? whats the story on these guys? Where and why do they have so many engines and what are the conditions of them.... some must be OK for the prices they ask.....some must be exploded ?