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YOUR RESEARCHClamshell and Top Not Working After Replacing Hydraulic Cylinders (2004 C4S)
Leading reported evidence
Use manual open/close key
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used the manual open/close key to test the clamshell, and it moves open and closed manually, but doesn't latch completely closed.
Clamshell and Top Not Working After Replacing Hydraulic Cylinders (2004 C4S)
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Leading evidence: 'Use manual open/close key' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Set clamshell motor' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
No luck setting the clamshell motor to 6.2 ohms as the video described.
Clamshell and Top Not Working After Replacing Hydraulic Cylinders (2004 C4S)
Test clamshell, and it moves open and closed manually
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Suggestion · Original poster
I used the manual open/close key to test the clamshell, and it moves open and closed manually, but doesn't latch completely closed.
Clamshell and Top Not Working After Replacing Hydraulic Cylinders (2004 C4S)
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2004 C4S. I had my convertible hydraulic cylinders rebuilt last week and installed them back in the car last night. The car has been sitting in the service position for a couple of weeks while waiting for the parts to come back. The installation went fine, but when testing the top functionality, the soft top closed and latched, the clamshell moved back to within about 1 inch of closing, and that's it. Everything is now stuck, and nothing moves in either direction. I hear a clicking noise when pressing the buttons to raise/lower the top. I found a FB post with the same issue from 2 years ago and have reached out to them, but have not heard back. I used the manual open/close key to test the clamshell, and it moves open and closed manually, but doesn't latch completely closed. Unfortunately, I guess things need to be resynchronized now, but I just don't understand what happened or whether a resync is all that is needed. I found a video that seems like it would resynchronize the clamshell, which is also linked below. Can anyone give me suggestions on where to start with troubleshooting this? Thanks!
FB post with same issue -
https://www.facebook.com/groups/4488...1527114661779/
Link to album of photos and a video -
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gQnKGcoyq1WSNDaj6
YT video to resynch the clamshell -
You Tube
Like John said , there is a Position Sensor on the left side drivers side hydraulics that has to be hooked back up... Very easy to forget to hook this back up . ( I did it one time )
If that is not the issue I would suggest getting the $75 PIWIS Tester to look for codes and also to activate drive-links....The PIWIS is a MUST HAVE to troubleshoot some things..
To update - The
potentiometer was not connected correctly, so fixing that got the top and clamshell at least trying to move again. The top unlatches and starts to move back, but the clamshell isn't moving yet, so the top stops. I assume I am looking at a synchronization issue now, since I manually moved the clamshell. I am going to try that method in the video I linked and see where I get. Thanks for the suggestions.
No luck setting the clamshell motor to 6.2 ohms as the video described. With the clamshell all the way open, I was able to open the top halfway before it stopped. It then closed again with a series of button presses, but eventually it stopped closing and slowly fell into an open position. The clamshell is not moving at all. I guess I need a PIWIS tester and some research to figure out what to do with the tester.
After you have manually activated the clamshell, you have to remove the clamshell motor, resynch it to the computer and do a calibration with a scanner. You don't need a PIWIS but you need a scanner that can do calibration. My Durametric works.
The 6.2 value is not 6.2 ohms, it is 6.2 KOhms between the two correct wires.
