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YOUR RESEARCHWent to change oil on the car. The drain plug is seriously tight...
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Install way it is not
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I've found that because the fit can be quite good the bit exerts a bit of resistance when installing the bit and it is easy to think the bit is installed all the way it is not.
Went to change oil on the car. The drain plug is seriously tight...
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Leading evidence: 'Install way it is not' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install way it is not' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Went to change oil on the car. The drain plug is seriously tight...
Replace after
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Suggestion · Original poster
I thought about JB welding a hex socket onto the plug as well, but for now since I'm so close to the track event, decided to leave it be and tackle the oil change after.
Went to change oil on the car. The drain plug is seriously tight...
Replace oil filter
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Suggestion
Screw it in finger tight and let it sit for a few minutes while you change the oil filter.
Went to change oil on the car. The drain plug is seriously tight...
Replace w/ stainless plug
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Went to change oil on the car. The drain plug is seriously tight...
Frequently discussed actions (10)
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Install way it is not
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I've found that because the fit can be quite good the bit exerts a bit of resistance when installing the bit and it is easy to think the bit is installed all the way it is not.
Went to change oil on the car. The drain plug is seriously tight...
Replace after
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I thought about JB welding a hex socket onto the plug as well, but for now since I'm so close to the track event, decided to leave it be and tackle the oil change after.
Went to change oil on the car. The drain plug is seriously tight...
Use impact shock type extractor
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Suggestion
On aircraft we used to use a impact shock type extractor for screws or what ever tip you fastened to it and you would hit the tool at the end with mallet and it would turn it at the same time and the screws almost always came loose with one hit.
Went to change oil on the car. The drain plug is seriously tight...
Use some kind of tool bit
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Suggestion
So unless you can get the bit in all the way -- assuming it was not in all the way before -- you're probably looking at using some kind of tool bit that will grab the softer drain plug material enough you can loosen and remove the drain plug.
Went to change oil on the car. The drain plug is seriously tight...
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38 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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I put in the hex socket (8mm) and it went around once and I rather not round off the corners. Drain plug did not budge.
Tips? I intend to replace w/ stainless plug.
Are you turning the wrench the right way?
Also, that drain plug tool bit hole is deeper than you think. Be sure the tool bit is fully inserted. I've found that because the fit can be quite good the bit exerts a bit of resistance when installing the bit and it is easy to think the bit is installed all the way it is not.
You can can try using a block of wood and a hammer to see if you can get the bit in further. No need to go all medieval on the thing though.
If the hex tool bit went around once and the drain plug didn't loosen the corners are already rounded off.
So unless you can get the bit in all the way -- assuming it was not in all the way before -- you're probably looking at using some kind of tool bit that will grab the softer drain plug material enough you can loosen and remove the drain plug. You might have to drill a hole into the plug to get the removal tool bit deep enough to bite good in the aluminum.
For some kind of tool maybe something like this:
http://homerepair.about.com/od/inter...xtractor_2.htm
Probably pick up a small set at a good tools store, hardware store, or an automotive parts/tools store.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Take a cold chisel and a hammer... and with the chisel at the outer edge, and at an angle, hammer so the impact both unwinds the plug and drives the chisel point in.
Does that make sense? I'll try to find a picture to explain.
Don't waste your time/money dropping the oil pan...same thing happened on my old boxster....the bolt got totally rounded off....took it to a local oil change place...like VAN posted....they've got all the tools....took them less than 30 seconds....
No! Do not use a chisel. If the sealing surface of the sump is damaged in anyway the sump pan is ruined.
The OP can remove the drain plug by some other method or flat bed the car to a dealer and have the tech lift the car up and drill/remove the drain plug in no time.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Easy outs have never been "easy" in my experience. :-)
A QUALITY left hand drill bit might be the answer as well.
There are a ton of great suggestions here actually ...
I didn't hear EDM though... another suggestion.
I would try someone with the proper tool or buy one before destroying it first. On aircraft we used to use a impact shock type extractor for screws or what ever tip you fastened to it and you would hit the tool at the end with mallet and it would turn it at the same time and the screws almost always came loose with one hit.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CFMQ8wIwAQ
Back in the 70's this was the only way to safely loosen the philips head screws that held the clutch cover in place on Japanese motorcycles. I bought mine at K-Mart for $7 and it has served me well on many occasions.
Well the hole is rounded off. I haven't gotten an easy out but I did get a new plu and ordered the stainless steel one that is the 02 sensor plug.
I thought about JB welding a hex socket onto the plug as well, but for now since I'm so close to the track event, decided to leave it be and tackle the oil change after.
To bad I couldn't find a 9mm hex socket to wedge it into the hole
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
http://cdn-ugc.cafemom.com/gen/resize/299/217/80/2011/02/03/17/1n/50/povj4viscg1ehm8.jpg
Drill a small pilot hole 1/8" diameter near the outer edge of the plug about .035" or so deep. Use a pin punch at a very shallow angle and strike it hard as to loosen the plug. A few taps is all it should take.
Quoted for emphasis. Sometimes the easiest way is best. Nearly everything I've ever worked on has come lose after soaking with PB Blaster or similar. Also, use a breaker bar to slowly and gently add pressure, instead of the jerking motion that people tend to use with a wrench that's too short.
van has it shown with a photo on how to do it. there is an aluminum washer under it so once the plug has been broken free it will spin out with your fingers.
as far as a new plug, get the stock aluminum one with a new crush washer. 37 ft.lb. no more problems.
Also make sure the plug is the same temp as the oil pan. Screw it in finger tight and let it sit for a few minutes while you change the oil filter. Then torque both at the same time.
If you torque a cold plug into a warm pan you will have the same problem next time.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
