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YOUR RESEARCHChanging clutch hopefully this week, what part do I automatically need?
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Replace clutch
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Suggestion
For all cars built before April 19, 2000 and have not had the lever replaced, it is a must to replace it when you change the clutch.
Changing clutch hopefully this week, what part do I automatically need?
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Leading evidence: 'Replace clutch' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace clutch' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
BTW, I wouldn't replace an RMS that's not even seeping, personally.
Changing clutch hopefully this week, what part do I automatically need?
Test flywheel
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Suggestion
did you read the spec for testing the flywheel....
Changing clutch hopefully this week, what part do I automatically need?
Use some proper lighting
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Changing clutch hopefully this week, what part do I automatically need?
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So SharkAttack obviously go it hyped up to do this this week.
I'm going to order:
1. Clutch kit.
2. Pressure plate bolts
3. Clutch tool
4. Flywheel bolts
5. Flywheel pilot bearing
6. Rms seal, ($13 insurance)
7. Retaining spring
8. Pivot piece for clutch release
Should I go Swepco Trany fluid? or stick with OEM?
Anything else I need? Thanks for the help!
WTF? I thought the RMS was like a $90-100 part???
$13!! ALL THIS B.S. and 100's of threads over a $13 part ?
Nice list - I never looked at the pilot bearing before.... I bet that is your noise maker!! (thought it was more of a bushing than an actual bearing)
BTW - seriously... the IMS retro fit looks like it adds very little time to this job, have you thought about it?
The surface of the flywheel is one thing. There are also specs for how far the flywheel returns when you hold the crank side and twist the clutch side.
From Renntech _ you should join there also lots of good info and TSBs and other specs.
"Can the DMF be twisted by approx. 15 mm (0.590") to both the left and the right, and does it then return to approximately its initial position?" -- then the flywheel is good.
"Can the DMF be twisted beyond the dimension stated above (excessive turn) without a noticeable increase in the spring force?" or "Is the DMF fixed (can not be twisted)?" -- then the flywheel is bad.
I would also get the transmission throwout bearing guide tube it was a cheap part. Pelican has it but is way higher then the dealer near me about $20 bucks unless they have gone up.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...0%282001-05%29
For all cars built before April 19, 2000 and have not had the lever replaced, it is a must to replace it when you change the clutch. Not doing so invites noise as well as binding of the clutch.
Thanks for those numbers I'm going to crack it open and then get a list together on what needs to be replaced. I'm just hoping that the flywheel does come back bad then I'd be "forced" to go with the LW one. I'm going to go get some wood beams for safety blocks tonight and get everything ready for the weekend. Yay!
I'm tempted to maybe even chase down that small leak(damp area) I have in the right rear of the engine.
Are you the barefoot bandit?
Oh yah, a crawler to lay on would be nice.
Could use some proper lighting for under there.
Maybe add a camera crew for videoing the operation.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
