Use of .2 or c4 tranmsissions in a .1 c2 manual

Hey guys, Thoughts on using a c4 trans in a c2? Also thoughts on using a .2 trans (c2 or c4) in a .1 ? I see the diff /torq split is all done via the front and rear diff, so the output flange is just the output shaft from a c2 just extend a few inches with a flange on the end. Plz tell me if im wrong here I am looking for a box to use on track and to add an LSD of some sort to (wavetrac is my #1 rn). A c4 box is like 1/2 the price of a c2 box as well and more are on the used market. My current box is fine but noisy asfk due to failing / howling pinion bearing. I plan to run it till it pops. I have read the pinion failure howl is very common so I dont want to risk getting a new box w/ 100k+ miles just to find it howls too, so I figured a low mile box from specifically a vert c4 would be the safest bet... Low mile = collector logic / preserve dont abuse Vert = cruiser not bruiser C4 = less sporting, less senna impersonation from drivers on avg Also, I’m not sure if this is actually true, but if the C4 output shaft is supported more substantially in the nose cone (front output shaft area) than the C2, and if the drivetrain loads are split between the front and rear instead of being carried entirely through the rear like in a C2, wouldn’t a C4 gearbox potentially show better wear trends? My thought is that this could improve my chances of finding a healthier used transmission: Low mile, vert, c4 = high likely-hood of a good transmission. Thanks guys

You can use a c4 trans and let the output shaft just turn freely. The gear pairs are loaded identically between C2 and C4, only the load through the final drive and differential is ever so slightly lower. It is no big difference since most of the time a c4 is RWD anyway due to how the passive, viscous coupling works. You can use a .2 gearbox too. It is supposed to be stronger. It has 4 bevel gears in the diff, whereas .1 has just 2.

Quotes source post: 20637636

Thanks for this - I've pulled together the two threads on replacing a Tip with a manual into a single set of instructions, including a table with part numbers for the shopping list. My Indy thinks I should just buy a manual 996 and sell my car. He's not wrong, but with my mods and the killing on the difference between a Tip and a Manual I'm doing numbers at the detail level. Right now I'm thinking about getting a salvage manual and having a transmission rebuilder do the trick.

@hardtailer Thanks for the info. Interesting about how the .2 is beefier. Maybe a c4 .2 trans would be the answer. Does anything at all need to be changed over from a MY 2001 996 and a .2? For example the clutch fork or piviot or even a different clutch? Aught to check part numbers when I have a sec @996.x Seems youre on a similar boat as I am except if you can get above 75% of what you paid (be it car and or major services) then I would say sell it and find an example in the spec you want. I just realize that even a 1999 996 would prob still need a new diff too due to age. I want a gear driven lsd so I figured buying another 996 wouldnt be the answer... unless its a gt3 to be honest. I though of buying a salvage 996 for the trans as well but it seemed too much of a gamble tbh. If you buy just a transmission you are given a slight warranty period.

Quotes source post: 20637941

I don't know what it is, but Slakker puts a "OS Glikken LSD" in a different trans. and mates it to a 996/7 engine. It is under ~$5k and I do not know if that includes a trans or not, engine out/in.. They also do Aasco LWFW & clutch, other options. I know that Brandon talks about it in a video, but I don' remember which one. Whatever, their products have a 2-year warranty IIRC, so that is worth something. They did put it in a 419hp (don't remember the Tq) rebuild and he talks about it as he goes whizzing around (under) bridge u-turns and "gives it the beans". Call and ask? Maybe something of interest? YMMV

Quotes source post: 20637941

.2 pressure plate is different. Disc is the same.