18 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHstrange idle after cleaning ISV, any advice?
Reported or suspected cause
still there
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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Reported cause · Original poster
after i started it this morning the idle was kinda rough and today the original problem is still there.
Leading evidence: 'still there' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'still there' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check operation of it like '99 said' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
hey fellas, removed my isv and cleaned my throttle body last night.
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Suggestion
It simply may be acting up, check the operation of it like '99 said, it probably is the culprit.
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Suggestion
I assume you have checked for pending errors with a scanner?
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Suggestion
Try removing the connector from the coolant temperature sensor and clean all contacts.
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Suggestion · Original poster
the door moves inside, it's clean, not sure how to tell if it's doing what it's supposed to, plus, it's like a 400 dollar part so i want to be absolutely sure.
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hey fellas, removed my isv and cleaned my throttle body last night. after i started it this morning the idle was kinda rough and today the original problem is still there. during cold start ups, the idle will drop for half a second and then rev back up again. it does this about once every minute, blinks the CEL for about a second, and then returns to normal. this process continues until the car is hot.
who recommends re-cleaning the isv? could this be a MAF issue? i currently have no codes stored.
Is the car a C2? Did you clean the ICV valve? Try removing the connector from the coolant temperature sensor and clean all contacts. A roaming idle like that often is a symptom of a bad sensor or it's connection. Less than a $150 part if I remember correctly. I assume you have checked for pending errors with a scanner?
coolant temp sensor is only about 20 bucks from the dealer (i get it wholesale) so will order that monday but it is a part that almost never fails. i'm gonna reclean the isv this weekend and post results. if that doesn't do it, i'll replace the coolant temp sensor. if that doesn't do it, i suppose buying a new ISV is the answer. do this sound about right to you? the ISV isn't cheap...
your opinions please.
Make sure the window of the ICV moves smoothly.
You're right on the temp sensor. $28.88 is list. The ICV can be picked up at Autozone for $199. ( 3 year old price)
well that's what makes this kinda tricky, there are no codes. no history codes, no pending codes.
i just thoroughly re-cleaned the isv last night, let the car cool, and started it this morning and the problem is still there. i seriously doubt it's a coolant temp sensor issue but i will change that tomorrow anyways. where else should i look?
p.s. i timed the drops in idle and they are very consistent at almost every 30 seconds.
the car can even be partially warm, and i can turn it off. if i wait 10 minutes after it's off then the heat in the engine will spread and warm up the block, and then it will idle perfectly even when the temp reads only 100 degrees.
all signs seem to point to coolant temp sensor, but there must be something else.
Maybe the frequency of the issue has not been enough to trigger a CEL but I am sure there is something falling out of range. On the printout I got from the dealer, it listed the frequency and duration of when a sensor or what not would fall out of range. If you could get a count of each sensors falling out of parameter, it might point you to what the problem is.
Now I think of it, I may be wrong but the ICV will not trigger a CEL if has an issue. It simply may be acting up, check the operation of it like '99 said, it probably is the culprit.
how can i test that? the door moves inside, it's clean, not sure how to tell if it's doing what it's supposed to, plus, it's like a 400 dollar part so i want to be absolutely sure. my scanner can give me readings on the sensors, do you know where i can get the specs to make sure everything is in range or not?
First of all, your can get the stock part for about $200. Secondly, in most cases, the valve either works electronically or it doesn't. The only variable would be mechanical binding but if you have cleaned it well and the window is operating smoothly, the valve if fine and only reacting to input from the computer.
Have you disconnected the coolant temperature sensor to see if there is a change? For $20, it might just be easier to throw a new on in. Just get a gallon or 2 of Peak Lifetime 50/50 coolant to replace what you lose.
i'm gonna play with the coolant temp sensor tomorrow as the car is still a tad warm from starting it this morning. thanks for the info on the isv, i think it's working fine.
To me, the fact the car runs fine at operating temps possibly rules out the coolant temp sensor. It should start cold easy but be hard to start once warmed if the coolant sensor was out.
no i'm good. since i just bought it, i serviced the whole thing, 3 stage coolant flush done right. this little car has a 6 gallon capacity, takes a long time to flush.
Oh well, tried the coolant temp sensor...FAIL
Problem still persists. What sucks is that my car was ****ing with my head. It was idling perfectly for almost 5 minutes and I was already planning my victory speech for rennlist when the dirty bastard shut off on me.
Well, I have eliminated the coolant temp sensor and ISV. Any other ideas, or shall I admit defeat and take her in?
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