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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHRMS is dry should I replace?
Leading reported evidence
Inspect closer and make the call
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Inspect closer and make the call' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Inspect closer and make the call' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Replace it now, while the transmission is out, or replace it later, when you will have to spend another 10 hours removing and replacing the transmission.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I have the LN seal tool so it will set the depth and should be fairly simple.
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Suggestion
Replace it now, while the transmission is out, or replace it later, when you will have to spend another 10 hours removing and replacing the transmission.
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I have the trans out of my car for service stuff and the RMS looks dry and clean. Should I leave it alone or replace ? I have heard people have issues after they replace it sometimes.
I would not touch it.
In the first four years of owning my car, the dealer replaced the RMS at least 3 times until they finally got it right. It's been dry for the last 17 years and I don't plan to touch it until it leaks.
If you are looking at a seal that requires you to remove the transmission in order to replace that seal, that is the time to replace that seal. Check out the EPS RMS Upgrade
https://www.epsauto.com/rear-main-seal
The seal is going to fail. Replace it now, while the transmission is out, or replace it later, when you will have to spend another 10 hours removing and replacing the transmission.
If you decide not to replace it, confirm at the least that you have the latest version of the seal. Also Confirm the �depth� that it is installed to�..
there were a number of changes to the seal and installation depth.
-Eric
04 996
99 986
If you own a 996 long enough you will have a RMS leak with old seals, new seals, any seal. Its not catastrophic, its just a pita. IMHO, since you will already be in there, i would replace it with the most recent factory seal knowing the one you have will eventually leak amd you will kick yourself for not doing it when you had the opportune time.
https://www.epsauto.com/rear-main-seal
Well, that above extra bearing and seal set up is total BS.
If crank has .030" runout no extra bearing/seal will fix that. Trying to confine .030" crank run out in a end bearing that won't allow that movement will more than likely break crank in 2 pieces or blow that end cap extra EPS bearing to pieces.
Crank runout should be as close to .000" runout as possible. Runout comes from a crank that is not straight, On the M96, engine hydro-locking can cause excess run out/bends, Most engine manufacturers have less than .002-.003" max spec runnout.
When truing crankshafts, I strove for less than .001" runout when done,, for the smoothest longest lasting engine builds. Balancing will not fix excess runout ever....
Did a screen shot of their video's dial indicator on crank flange showing maybe .030" runout.... LMFAO.
The dial indicator did half a full revolution in their video....
It amazes me what unscrupulous or maybe just plain stupid vendors try to pass off & profit from....as 'the fix' for a long time problem area.
Total BS, don't fall for it....
Thanks Glenn I plan to replace the seal as it is original and very old at this point. I have the LN seal tool so it will set the depth and should be fairly simple.