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AutoCross class 2000 996

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YOUR RESEARCHAutoCross class 2000 996

Leading reported evidence

Run full synt in one vehicle

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster

I only ran full synt in one vehicle before this Porsche, a bmw that was rode pretty dang hard everywhere, and honestly, at 154k miles on my bmw, when I removed the cams to do the valve adjustment, there was no more wear in there than on any Dyno oil I ever ran, and I mostly changed that oil between 7500 and 12k miles (but after all it was snake oil (oops I mean amsoil <g>)

AutoCross class 2000 996
Frequently discussed work

Adjust & record tire pressures

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Suggestion

Bring a tire gauge so you can adjust & record tire pressures.

AutoCross class 2000 996
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Leading evidence: 'Run full synt in one vehicle' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust & record tire pressures' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.

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Run many cars and motorcycles every 6 k

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster

ran many cars and motorcycles every 6 k with dyno oil in them for hundreds of thousands of miles

AutoCross class 2000 996

Use couple screws

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed

there is a "fix" for that someone wrote up once on here...try a search...I think they used a couple screws from home deposit (depot) and fixed it up but I cant recall for sure

AutoCross class 2000 996

Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.

Use factory dot 4 fluids)

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster

the car was sold new at a local Porsche dealer, Wife called them this am, the car had the 60k service done there , they flushed the brake fluids then (used factory dot 4 fluids) but at least we now know more about the car, and the last service was the 60k done at the Porsche dealer just before we bought the car, we bought it from the other Porsche dealer here though.

AutoCross class 2000 996

Adjust & record tire pressures

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Suggestion

Bring a tire gauge so you can adjust & record tire pressures.

AutoCross class 2000 996
Frequently discussed actions (10)

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Adjust & record tire pressures

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Suggestion

Bring a tire gauge so you can adjust & record tire pressures.

AutoCross class 2000 996

Check the airbox bumps you out of stock

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Suggestion

I *think* you're ASP if it's an SCCA event, but I'd have to crack the rulebook to check- the airbox bumps you out of stock.

AutoCross class 2000 996

Clean off

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Suggestion

Some people like to put a bit of painters tape on the corners of the bumper to make cone marks easier to clean off, but I usually just hit 'em with a little magic eraser afterwards instead.

AutoCross class 2000 996

Replace .html

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Suggestion

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...il-change.html

AutoCross class 2000 996

Replace brake fluid

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Suggestion · Original poster

what else should we do, besides checking everything over, perhaps change brake fluid?

AutoCross class 2000 996

Replace interval is

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Suggestion

Plenty of threads on this forum with opinions split on what the appropriate oil change interval is.

AutoCross class 2000 996

Replace oil at 60,500+) the sticker had 70k

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Suggestion · Original poster

well actually the car had the 60k service done, then the new dealer changed the oil at 60,500+) the sticker had 70k on when next change was due, but car only had 6800 so there was only 7500 on it <g>, Porsche said every 10k, running full Synt i think every 7500 should be fine.

AutoCross class 2000 996

Replace oil next time

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Suggestion

Please don't wait 10K miles to change your oil next time.

AutoCross class 2000 996

Replace will be due at in 2500 miles, thinking about

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Suggestion · Original poster

Anyhow oil change will be due at in 2500 miles, thinking about changing it before we do this autocross class, or should I wait till after hmmm, might as well do it now

AutoCross class 2000 996

Run flawlessly

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Suggestion · Original poster

we really do not know the cars history, as we just bought it back in nov I think, with 60k miles on it, (we posted here when we did) car has run flawlessly, so far, only thing we have had to do was fix a window regulator -

AutoCross class 2000 996
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26 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.

  • Rennlist: 1 discussions

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POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Well, there is a Auto Cross class this weekend, my wife is in, guess that means I am in as well, (like I wouldn't be <g>) HER car, a 2000 manual trans Cab, everything is stock as far as we know except the air box, which I have never got around to putting back to a factory unit we really do not know the cars history, as we just bought it back in nov I think, with 60k miles on it, (we posted here when we did) car has run flawlessly, so far, only thing we have had to do was fix a window regulator - but she has only put 7500 miles on it since then (I say only <grin>) but i will say it has not used a full quart of oil yet in that time. Anyhow oil change will be due at in 2500 miles, thinking about changing it before we do this autocross class, or should I wait till after hmmm, might as well do it now what else should we do, besides checking everything over, perhaps change brake fluid? car has 67500 mile on it (wow she has put some miles on it already)

POST 2Original post

Which club? SCCA, PCA, NASA, local indie? Honestly, I wouldn't sweat it too much- they'll help you class it properly at the event. I *think* you're ASP if it's an SCCA event, but I'd have to crack the rulebook to check- the airbox bumps you out of stock. As for prep, all you really need to do is clean it out. Remove everything loose, including the floor mats (you'll see little piles of floormats, spare tires and misc stuff beside every car). You'll want to raise your tire pressures as well to prevent roll-under- your rear tires may only need a few pounds and might get that just from the heat, but you'll need to add quite a bit to the front to reduce understeer. Bring a tire gauge so you can adjust & record tire pressures. You don't need to worry about changing your oil or your brakes boiling (just make sure your brake fluid level is OK and they're working properly). The only thing autocross is hard on are your tires! Some people like to put a bit of painters tape on the corners of the bumper to make cone marks easier to clean off, but I usually just hit 'em with a little magic eraser afterwards instead. You might want to check out the rennlist autocross forum, too- it's in the perf & comp section. You're going to have a lot of fun

POST 3Original post

yea...dont over think it - you will be driving ~1 minute I think the car will be OK remove all the stuff, bring some good shoes and sun block, water, a chair and a hat - as for the oil - a little low is WAY BETTER than topped off - again ~ 1 minute....you'll be OK My last track day I put a 1.5 hour stent on track...now you have management issues - tires, oil, temps, driver ect....but not so much for AutoX go, talk to other people, have fun....if you like it, go back - if not go to a DE or lapping day - worth trying too

POST 4 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

[quote=sjfehr;10296286] she joined us to the Porsche Club, and this is in Atlanta this weekend. it is a first timer class on Saturday morning, that out to Atlanta motor speedway on Sunday did not even think about the air box, thanks for the tips! never thought about erasers for cone marks, we do have the front wrapped with the clear "plastic" coating

POST 5 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 10296323

thanks, oil needs done in 2500 anyhow, but might as well wait till after the track though, did not even think about it being such a short time on the track at a time, thing was, we have no idea when the brakes have been last flushed anyhow, I will try to see if it had been done at the other porsche dealer here in town where it was sold new. we will! should be a hoot in this little car thanks again!

POST 6 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

[quote=ivangene;10296323]yea...dont over think it - you will be driving ~1 minute thanks, oil needs done in 2500 anyhow, but might as well wait till after the track though, did not even think about it being such a short time on the track at a time, thing was, we have no idea when the brakes have been last flushed anyhow, I will try to see if it had been done at the other porsche dealer here in town where it was sold new. we will! should be a hoot in this little car thanks again!

POST 7 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

the car was sold new at a local Porsche dealer, Wife called them this am, the car had the 60k service done there , they flushed the brake fluids then (used factory dot 4 fluids) but at least we now know more about the car, and the last service was the 60k done at the Porsche dealer just before we bought the car, we bought it from the other Porsche dealer here though. it had a small oil leak that was fixed at that time too they traded it in right after that I guess as we got it with 60540 on it

POST 8 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

BTW we had a ball at the auto cross event, there were some really good people there more than willing to give pointers and ride along with you Glad we took the classroom time on Saturday, and track instruction sunday AM, it gave some nice little pointers and gave us the opportunity to go the night before and help setup a bit, meet a couple of the people and learn more of the course design,. I'm also very glad the beginners were in the 2nd run group, as we were out on the track at stations to help for the 1st group, which really was far more valuable than I would had thought, what it did for sure was take some of the nervousness away watching the more experienced drivers go through the course, watching them make a few mistakes and see the cars handle the mistakes, I made one run with instructor and dnf'd, did another two runs and did a 136 without hitting any cones, but wow was I all over the place sloppy sloppy sloppy driving, I have no idea how I missed some of those cones, it was pure luck I did on that run. but man was I excited to get a 136 no cones and no dnf, like a 12 year old! , then the throttle popped off, I was last car of that day so just called it quits to see if I was going to have a issue driving the car home My wife did pretty good on her first solo run too, then dnf'd missing a turn. she had a blast and then told me get my own car , not sure if that was a good hint or if I'm evicted from driving hers again <g> anyhow all is good and it was fun fun fun, next time I am going to be the slowest guy on the track till I learn this car

POST 9Original post

yup - sounds about right fun smiling like a 12 year old and feeling a little like "I need more practice" I agree that watching cars is a great way to learn a lot - its surprising, but true throttle popped off??? That is strange...what was /is it? next time pack Duct Tape!

POST 10 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 10313385

it has the "fly by wire" throttle, on the sensor behoind the throttle pedal is a rm connecting it to the pedal, the little ball on the end of the arm popped out of the hole in the pedal, twice, I wonder if we just did not get it in all the way the first time, or if the ball or pedal has just enough play when driving it pretty aggressive it pops out, but its fun to try and drive off the track without that arm being hooked up! it drove the 2.5 hours home fine

POST 11Original post

there is a "fix" for that someone wrote up once on here...try a search...I think they used a couple screws from home deposit (depot) and fixed it up but I cant recall for sure

POST 12Original post

Please don't wait 10K miles to change your oil next time. Read this thread from Pelican and look at the LN engeneering page mentioned in post #10. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...il-change.html

POST 13Original post

Maybe this thread? https://rennlist.com/forums/4639666-post16.html

POST 14Original post

awesome - thats EXACTLY the one I was thinking of

POST 15Original post

Quotes source post: 10313956

Those are different cars with different engines- intervals for 1980s aircooled engines designed for 1980s oils are going to be different than a 996 running today's synthetics. Plenty of threads on this forum with opinions split on what the appropriate oil change interval is. I don't really want to derail this thread into yet another oil argument so I'll leave it at that. tks12: Another Rennlister was at the Peachstate PCA autocross yesterday, and posted some video in the video thread in the autocross forum. https://rennlist.com/forums/autocross-85/

POST 16Original post

I would play this game with the YouTube videos, while watching I use the mouse to pause the video where each cone comes up and call "left pin", "right pin", "six pin", slalom, etc. Over and over until I could get past fixating on the next cone and could hone in on the second. Same video over and over. "Seeing" the course is a skill unto itself. I also like Randy Probst's advice on "driving slower to go faster" (google it). I was surprised to hear that a professional driver had to really work at being a fast cone-dodger. other tips. Drive with your shoulders not your wrists. Keep your shoulder blades flat, no side to side rocking like you're floating on a boat and maybe wrap a piece of the painter's tape to the 12 o'clock position on your steering wheel so that you're mindful of not shuffling the wheel.

POST 17 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 10313956

well actually the car had the 60k service done, then the new dealer changed the oil at 60,500+) the sticker had 70k on when next change was due, but car only had 6800 so there was only 7500 on it <g>, Porsche said every 10k, running full Synt i think every 7500 should be fine. ran many cars and motorcycles every 6 k with dyno oil in them for hundreds of thousands of miles (also keep in mind this car is drove 100 miles day, which is about 70 percent light highway each way) I only ran full synt in one vehicle before this Porsche, a bmw that was rode pretty dang hard everywhere, and honestly, at 154k miles on my bmw, when I removed the cams to do the valve adjustment, there was no more wear in there than on any Dyno oil I ever ran, and I mostly changed that oil between 7500 and 12k miles (but after all it was snake oil (oops I mean amsoil <g>) thanks for the links ill look them over

POST 18 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 10314734

thanks, I knew I was driving too fast that run, but the kid came out I guess, like I said it was pure luck I did not take out any cones or dnf, it seemed like every turn I braked early except for the few I really tried to wait till the last second, then I almost over shot those turns and slid sideways, I felt like I did pretty good on several of those turns with a bit of controlled slide using throttle to keep car under control, ) But, like I said next time, im going to be the slowest guy out there and learn better control and to get smooth. I have to slow down to get a grip with the brakes on this car, my bmws stopped on a dime, with the power assisted brakes, but I think this car out stopped those bikes! I'll have to dig up some videos and see if that works for me, I wont eb able to do this all the time, but hopefully more often than not (if my wife keeps letting me drive her car) hehe thanks for the tips

POST 19Original post

Evo school is coming to your area this weekend. I did the beginner and advance courses. Well worth it. Espcially if you get some hadcore rain. Now that's a car control lesson! http://evoschool.com/index.php?page=schedule

POST 20 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 10317295

that was a everyday occurrence growing up in FL, as a kid we had a ball on abandon roads living in the sticks <grin> don't think we can pull it off this weekend though it would be ablast and thanks for that link!

POST 21 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 10313941

I searched everywhere for that fix, with no luck, I saw a couple aftermarket pedals, I will take it apart this weekend and see what I can do to keep it from happening again, I also see some of the hinges break on these throttles, so I might as well look at that closely as well

POST 22Original post

Quotes source post: 10322519

check post #13 - you missed the link - it was given to you

POST 23 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 10313988

ok that is for the slop in the bottom, mine , the rod from the sensor popped out of the pedal twice

POST 24 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 10322644

thanks, I did not see that post, but I did see that thread, mine was a bit different, the rod that goes from the sensor to the pedal popped out of the pedal, twice. it is a ball on the end of the rod that fits into the ball socket on back of pedal I attached a pic ) btw I just found where someone else had the same problem, but it was long ago https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...tor-pedal.html

POST 25Original post

I think a new pedal is pretty cheap and having that come off more than once - I would just buy one you could get one from a junk yard if new is too much $ DC Auto was good to me - I have used them before but there are others

POST 26 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 10325283

haven't even priced it yet, we have a shop dealer account too. l, I was looking at some aftermarket ones too, I liked one aftermarket, but want to keep it matched up, too, if had the time, I might jjust make one our of metal, time though, it;s always about time <g>

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