Should I buy a 996??

Hi, Im new here and need some help for making a decision. I have always wanted to buy an old porsche and I feel its close now. I have the possibility to buy a 996 from 1998, its a C2 cabriolet with manual transmission (81000 miles). The car has been serviced at porsche every service. More car info: The car is flood car, fresh water. The water line was one inch below door handle. The engine turns by hand. No water in engine oil. The seller bought it back in december 2022, it was flooded 2 month before that. The car has been sitting in his garage until today 2025-04-25. I have seen the car and the mildew is dead and has turned into like white fine powder/flour. Had a look at the fuse box and there is a little bit but no major corrosion. The mobiliser under the seat is dead and the seat frames are rusty. The seller includes a new mobiliser, ECU and 2 new coded keys. My questions: 1. Is the mildew actually dead when it turns inte white fine powder/flour? 2. The car has been sitting in a garage efter the flood for almost 3 years. How bad is this? There was stil moist under the seats but nothing the frunk. 3. I know I have to strip the car and check all connections but im worried about rust. There is no rust at all outside the car but dont know how bad it is under the car. What can I expect ? 4. Time is no problem for me but do you think its possible to rescue the car? Or will there be to much elctrical issuies and rust to handle ? Or something else that im probably missing? Appreciate if you can comment on this. Thanks / Y

When you sign up for a 996, there are a whole bunch of known issues that have to be rectified and most of them do not reveal themselves until you are driving the car somewhere. Given that, why would you want to double or triple the number of unknowns by taking possession of a flooded car? But if you want to move forward, check the title and ask the current owner if it was insured. Insurance companies are picky about insuring flooded cars.

Retail on a 1998 Porsche 911 CAB is $20K to $25K, for a running, driving example IMHO. This is for a car of known history, with no flood damage. Running flood damaged car. Maybe worth $15K for driving example? If this car is free and your labour is free, with very conservative estimates: 1. Cleanup $1000 - chemicals, equipment etc. 2. Other electronics - Lights, horns, air bag module, radio, coils etc. $5000 3. Maintenance - Fluids, AOS, air filter $2000 You are now into $8000, and you have not even tried to start the car. Any further repairs, even something relatively minor, will be thousands. Parts are expensive. In my opinion, this is a parts car at best - especially in consideration that the car was flooded to the door handles which means motor, frunk and many modules in car were under water including window motors, locks, speakers, radio. As a free car, not economically viable unless you are a risk taker. At any cost, not financially prudent.

No

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+1

+2 Flood=F No!

A 996 in good condition is already a value buy... good bang for your buck. So, getting a flood-damaged car at a discount (you don't state the how much the car would cost) is not a significant benefit. You will likely end up paying the same total cost after you get this car functional again, and even after you get it functional there may be lurking issues (e.g. hidden rust, nagging electrical gremlins). I'd recommend not to get such a car.

No

Someone remind me how the saying goes. “The cheapest Porsche…“

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My response...

That would be a hard no for me. Unless it was free and I can part it out.

Yeah, the car would cost me around 9K. If I tackle the flood part first without even trying to start the car it would cost me probably as one of you mentioned above. And first then I can concentrate on the other common 996 problems and issues. As many of you mention it would cost me more than other functioning second hand 996. But it will be my project and all things would be with my own touch. I will Know the car inside and out! but yeah, sounds to good to be true Great to have your opinions on this! I really want this car but I�m leaning towards a NO !

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Yes agree!

That 996s appear inexpensive is false economy. There are no solid, reliable 911s for less than $50K if you factor in the parts and labor to refresh all the aged parts and repair broken ones. If you find one for less, you can assume the difference will be the cost in parts and labor to make it reliable. Any 911 you buy for under $40K, will afford you lots of opportunity to become intimately knowledgeable with the car as you repair and refresh it.

For 9000 it's a terrible deal. For 1000 perhaps.

Just not that 996. Go find one without such a negative history. You may never chase down all the gremlins that car possesses.

Up to the door handle means water got into the motor from the exhaust side of the valves. Even it it does spin i wouldnt count on it starting. The motor would be a $20-30k rebuild gamble. Not a bet i would make. U can get nice rollers for that price without the worry of water damage.

Maybe find a nice roller, than search for an engine. That would get you nice project car to learn inside and out. Gotta be better than the flood option.

Just from the fact that the flood was door handle high and you felt the need to ask opinions tells me with out a doubt this is not the car for you .... A door handle high flood means 85% of the car and 95% of all electrical was submerged under water 3 years ago ...Even though the engine turns by hand now I seriously doubt it was unaffected by water intrusion... an engine/transmission that has been submerged has to be drained and refilled and dryed out and ran within 3-5 days after submerged to be able to survive...

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That�s WAY too much!

No. Unless you've done extensive work on automotive electrical systems and can get the car for nothing. Even then things that are electrically OK today will go bad over time as the corrosion continues. Some corrosion will be accelerated with current flow. Then add in all the mechanical issue that likely exist. No.

It might sound like a deal... but the amount of money you'll put into it, plus the time, energy, stress will be wayyy more than getting a well sorted 996 from the start. "Buy once, cry once" is a common saying for a good reason.

I don’t think I can add much to this discussion except this one thought not all 996s are created equal from new. If this particular car was in someway a special example like a factory Aero car, a PTS six speed coupe, or other special build I always consider any recovery of that type a car to be an effort on a different level. Sometimes your heart tells you to do things your brain would never consider 😀 Rich

Even if it were free, it would have to be a challenge/gamble type thing, with a ton of room to play doctor, a ton of money to sink into it, having the time to play said doctor, certainly no guarantee that it will work out for the best, and feeling ok if the gamble doesn't pay. At $9,000, that would be HARD pass. (There's a reason he is selling it. He KNOWS it's not worth the time, money and effort.)

I would not buy that car....but I did buy a 997 and IMHO the 996 is the sweet spot for value as the older air-cooled cars are overpriced and the newer cars are too expensive.......I quit working on cars when I was a teenager, and I could afford to have a professional do it.... I have other hobbies .....

I've seen these flood/salvage scenarios one too many times on this forum. People see a "cheap Porsche" and think... "I can fix that!" only to get way over their head and dump thousands into a money pit. Then, the cars usually end up on Craigslist or Facebook marketplace when the same, "This started out as a project, but can't finish" kind of line. @Yille81 I can't tell you enough to RUN from a flood car of this nature. Every vital module (ECU, Immobilizer, ABS, etc.) are ALL probably toast and will need to be replaced and reprogrammed by Porsche...not to mention the wiring is probably so corroded you more than likely be chasing electrical gremlins to no end. The engine also probably flooded too. I mean this could cost you double what a good used 996 Cabriolet will cost on FB Marketplace. And, it will be extremely hard to sell it too. In Georgia, you have to get a bonded title for a flood car. Not easy. But look... here's a quick list of cars in my area. (see below) Even a 2009 997 for $22,000. Many of 996 cabriolets that pop up on Facebook marketplace can be purchased in running condition for well under $20,000. I'd rather do that, then try to repair a flood car! Heck, I have over $5,000 in my 996 just for normal service stuff like brakes and simple repair.

Here�s the only scenario I would entertain if I were you: Dear seller: �How about I take the car and go through it, document and test and examine everything, and then report back honestly the condition and what needs to be repaired and fixed.� If you have time and they agree, you have nothing but time as the investment, and if the car is not bad, you guys can agree on the purchase price. If the car needs even a little repair, you can ask to deduct the cost of that repair for the purchase price. It�s very easy to accumulate $9k of repairs for parts alone on a car like this.

Yes, you should buy a 996 Do NOT buy this one

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???? I got a solid and reliable 911 coupe manual for half that amount.

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Thanks man! Perfect comment. Makes it easier to not buy :-)

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Thanks for the advice :-)

I think I understand you all now, Its a no go for me :-) Thanks for all the comments!!!!!! I will most likely come back to this forum again when there is a 996 in my garage. Have to keep on hunting !!

Hi all, Im here again. Still no 996 in the garage. I have found another interesting car. It is a 1999 C4 with 105 000miles. Serviced at porsche shop untill it 2022. It has not been driven since 2022. The big problem: The seller sees oil in coolant/expansion tank. White smoke from exshaust the first 3-5 minuts and it goes away. Here is a video of the car running. Does anyone have 996 ears and can tell me if it sound strange ? The car is 7 hours away from me so I wanted to check in here first :-) Here is the video: You Tube Would appreciate if you can comment :-) Thanks / Y

You have found another 996 that may cost $20K-$30K to repair. Oil in coolant is very bad. Engine should not be run with oil in coolant. Sounds not needed, but those are not good either. Next.

If there is oil in the coolant tank - and it has been there for years (anything longer than a month or two) - you have a very bad situation there. Rennvision and Jake Raby have a video about it below. That car will need to have ALL rubber coolant hoses replaced, and likely the radiators as well. The oil in the coolant destroys the rubber and plastic. Watch the video below. You Tube

30+ hoses is more expensive than most people think. Also likely need a new head or expensive repair. If water is water in the engine, you may need an entire rebuild. This could easily total the car, especially considering other items(suspension, brakes, etc) that need replacing in a 105K mile car.

Yille81... where are you located? Regarding this second car you mentioned, same conclusion as for the 1st one. We'd probably not recommend it even if it were given to you for free. Too much risk & $$ to fix. What is your budget?

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Sweden is my location and budget is south of 20K. Hard to find a decent 996 for that money in northern Europe unfortunately. I�m not giving up ☺️✌️

Thanks for the feedback all! As I mentioned in previous quote. I�m not giving up, will find one that suits my budget. Need to be careful, that�s why I�m hanging around in here ☺️✌️

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Hard to fund anywhere for that and anything south of $20K is going to need north of $20K to repair/refresh.

Look for one that’s mechanically sound but cosmetically rough. That‘s likely the cheapest route.

No. Just no. There is a very good chance that it could sink you. Any flood car requires experience, money, skill, patience, money and did I mention money. You�ll need a large amount of at least three out of those four qualities I mention. You also run the very real risk of doing a disservice to your first Porsche ownership experience by souring your own enjoyment.

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Egg Zackly!

Should buy the flood damaged car and start a thread, documenting everything as you go. Should be a good read and make me feel better about how much I've spent on mine.

It might be blasphemy suggesting it here, but�..have you considered a 986? You can definitely find one well south of $20k and still have a whole lotta fun�

Yes, a 986 may be more within your budget.

The thoughts started with a 986. But after thinking about it for years i changed my mind. I have always wanted a 911 (since I was a kid and saw a movie about two, or one, guy stealing porsche cars and its only realy nice ones ). I think this movie is from 1980�s or 1990�s. Does some maybe know the name of this movie ???? Would be nice to see it again.

�No Man�s Land�. I love that movie. https://m.imdb.com/title/tt0093638/ if you want a 911, then don�t settle for anything else.

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Perfect, thanks man 👌✌️

I'm late to the game but as a detailer, if the interior was flooded... that's easily a 2k job for a proper cleaning AND that's not including if you need to replace seats.

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Thanks, all info is needed :-)

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Be patient! Keep saving for another year or two until you can comfortably buy what you really want. If your heart is set on a 911, get a 911. Just budget enough to get one that you'll be able to enjoy rather than one you'll likely suffer with. That means IMS done recently (or solution/similar oil fed bushing), no bore scoring, no flood damage. Also budget enough for a good PPI (even several - my first did not work out), contingency for some repairs ($5k USD for the first couple of years would be comfortable, maybe less if you're very handy), and all the taxes and paperwork you might need to complete (insurance, shipping, etc) Dunno how old you are, but if you're not reaching retirement age soon, you have plenty of time for a 911 in your life!

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Thanks for the good advice. I�m 43 and it feels like I have been waiting sooo long. I have to be patient !!

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You’re way ahead of me. Got mine at 52 and worth the wait. I was a Volvo guy for too long.

Assuming you decide to save and pursue a non flooded, non mechanically challenged 996, be sure to drive a few first before purchasing. When i bought mine, i had driven a few "bad" ones and left being really disappointed. i almost gave up but went to drive a 3rd one, and it just fit, felt right and renewed my love of these cars. I think it came down to a well sorted car that felt like it had been taken care of...that was 6 years ago, and I have no regrets. good luck in your search!

Hi, Thanks again for all the replies. Feels like all of you are a part of my first buy ☺️ I found another one, 2001, IMS is done and other small things. it�s an automatic and it was imported to Sweden from US ( it�s not crashed or flooded ☺️). The seller says he has checked the car for correct mileage and it was around 9 000 miles. He says it was done by checking codes (osd maybe) for the automatic gearbox. My questions: 1. Can you check if the mileage on the car is correct through the automatic gearbox? 2. The car has yellow side indicators. Weren�t the side indicators changed to clear before 2001? 3. The car has four spoked steering wheel. Weren�t the steering wheel changed to 3-spoked in 2001? im a little suspicious so I wanted to check with you ✌️

Any 20 y.o. Porsche 911 Carrera (2WD-4WD) may have hidden issues. OK, like what? Split CV boots on front of a 4S, or rear of any 2WD. Simple fix, take out the axle and rebuild CV joints _ new rubber boots. HAH, not so fast! What result is there when you can NOT get the axle Out of the wheel carrier? Disassemble the whole front suspension and even a 20-ton press does not work.. Now you must replace front axles assemblies + wheel carrier and that is a lot of work. Did I forget that wheel carriers, either C2 or C4S/Turbo are not cheap? Even "used" from dismantlers? Axle assemblies P-brand or otherwise = $$$. Simple fix turned expensive. Oh, and throw in an alignment somewhere, $$$$ @ Pdealer or at least $ less somewhere else (if they have never seen a 996). Just realistic experience and thoughts. Have you seen any 996/997 Porsches in your area? I have been in ID mountains for 20 years and never seen even 1! Maybe total Pcar sightings in the wild @ 12-15 years. Something to think about if you have "challenged" (politically correct BS term) mechanical skills. YMMV

Late 1999 US cars got the clear lenses the early 996s have ambers, three spoke steering wheels were optional. early and late 1999 Pastel Yellow examples early cab late coupe. Rich

Early 1999 Aero 996 with ambers Rich

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9000 miles, really? That's less than 15K kilometers. :O Get someone to scan it for the ECU hours. (with a PIWIS, Durametric, some Foxwell) If actually 9000 miles it should only have around 260 hours on the ECU. Typical rule of thumb is hours * 35 MPH = close to the total mileage. If the number is way off, someone has likely played with the odometer.

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Sorry, I meant 90 000 !!! Thanks for the helpful rule of thumb formula. Now I know little bit more to ask the owner 👌

In the U.K. 996 prices are very low and I think have bottomed out. I bought this very pretty 996 Carrera 4 Cabriolet tiptronic last year for �10k. Very high specification in a lovely colour with factory Aero package. Full service history from new with all documentation in a file, recent full service with new ignition lock assembly, plugs and coil packs, alternator, new P Zero Rosso tyres all round and refurbished Carrera 18� wheels. I�ve replaced the water pump, idlers and belt, a CV boot and the Litronic self levelling suspension links. I also replaced the HVAC LCD screen, cleaned up the reversing light and sensor switch, fitted LED brake light bulbs, refitted the original air filter trunking and cleared out the front and rear water drains (essential to avoid damage to electrics on the cabin floor). I�m about to replace discs and pads front and rear myself. Original iMS bearing and RMS will be replaced soon, together with a major suspension refresh at my local Porsche 911 specialist. It looks great but has a few age related paint blemishes which will be addressed. Goes like a rocket and handles extremely well. I�m delighted with it. There are bargains out there. Good luck funding a nice 996! 👍

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IMHO, the reason that UK Porsche 996 cars are lower in value is because of the limited market they create. That is solely because they are right-hand drive vehicles. Porsche has said repeatedly that the biggest market Porsches is US/Canada which are left-hand drive countries. In so many cases, the same RHD Porsche will go for half as much at auction just because of this very fact.

This might end up being mine!!! A question what are those wheels? The seller doesn�t know. They are 19 inch. As you can see the car has gt3 skirts and front. Is there a way to tell they are factory?

No. Since this is your first 996. Spend a little extra and get a nice one. I would recommend that WAAAY over buying a flood car. just my $00.02.

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this is another one, all perfect with this one ✌️

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Have a look at the options sticker under the hood, it�ll tell you if the GT3 kit is factory. I doubt it is. 19s are not a great choice for 996s. I would revert back to smaller wheels. Since you�re in northern Europe, maybe look for cars in northern Germany. The German market is typically a little more interesting than others. You can get transfer plates with insurance for a few hundreds and most dealers will sort them out for you. What year / mileage / model is this one and what do they want for it?

Yes you should. I personally wouldn't buy that one though.

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Wheels are aftermarket, heavy boat anchors and a negative aspect of this example in my unsolicited opinion. As such it doesn't really matter what brand they are. Skirts and front bumper cover could be original Porsche parts but the only way to be certain is to check part numbers on the reverse side, which would require removal. A solid indicator for original would be if they are NOT glassfibre but polyurethane. They most likely were not factory or dealer fitted as the front cover requires either the fixed Carrera rear spoiler or the aero kit fixed rear wing as found on 996.1 GT3 as the aero balance between front and rear axle would be off with the stock rear deck lid and its electrically actuated spoiler/wing. If the option sticker states the correct codes for the aero kit, then it could have suffered rear end damage that destroyed the rear deck lid with GT3 wing or the Carrera rear wing and was subsequently repaired on the cheap by replacing them with a stock rear deck lid.

Thanks, I bought the car. Put on obd2 reader (icarsoft POR 1.0) after a short ride with the seller. Everthing checked out :-) Yes, I dont,like the wheels, will sell these and go back to 18 inch twist. Cant find any info on the skirts and front so 99,9% sure they are not factory. Its a tiptronic but i must say im surpiced how good it is. My first thought was that its bit slow but after an hour home in the car I started to learn how to shift (between manual and auto, and only manual) to make it more responsible. Im really happy with it :-)

Congratulations! I�m happy to hear you have a 911!

Congratulations! Since it is now yours you can combine removal of front bumper cover to check whether it is an original Porsche part with the cleaning between condensers and the radiators . Should you want to take it to the track or to a meandering, unrestricted stretch of the German Autobahn, then remember that you're missing the rear fixed wing. The search for either now starts, good luck and enjoy the ride in the mean time!

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The search has already started :-) Im leaning towards the "taco" wing but im not sure. Which alternative do you think would suite the aero kit?? Actually the preveois owner did clean between the condensors and radiators :-)

This is the other rear spoiler that porsche offers in combination with your front aero bumper cover https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1321009

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Thank you, nice alternative! Might go this one.

Keep us updated.

I'm restoring a 996 that sat in open air for 10 years. If you want to see the project you can look here https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ggestions.html I had no mechanical experience since I was a teen working on cars and racing back then. Been a white collar exec since then, but always wanted to get back into this. Scary at first but now having the time of my life with grease, oil and scraped knuckles. I've saved thousands and thousands doing my own work and learning. My wife says I should become a Porsche tech, probably more money in it!

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Hehe, nice! Since all of my saved money went into the car I must do everything on my own. I will probabaly happily end up in the same place as you :-)

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I will, but it will take time :-)

Hi All, Decided to do some visual fluid inspection today. Coolant level and color is OK, power steering fluid bit low but OK, brake fluid OK. Checked the oil by first removing the stick, level and color of oil was good. Removed the oil filler cap and discovered this, see the pictures. White moisture seems to be located in the first part of the opening of the tube. Should I be worried :-( ???? oil color looked OK and coolant also... Second picture shows after clening the tube with paper only. Brown color which not easy to remove by just paper.

Its normal for our cars to see the whiye gook at the cap. U need to drive the car harder and get the oil temp up so it burns off the residual moisture in the oil.

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Couldnt have received a better answer :-) Thansk !!!!!

here's mine during our cold months when I don't drive enough and the same tube with zero cleaning when it gets warm

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Thank You, I feel relieved now :-)

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This is why I've installed the oil temp kit by @Coopduc It's the best way to know you've gotten the oil temp above 180F. This gets most of the moisture out of the oil that makes the scary looking foam. I used to do an hour above 180F to make sure I had run a not-Porsche flat six long enough to get the moisture out. I and am figuring out how long is needed on the M96. The first time I saw this guck I was looking at the oil cap of the first car I owned. I could not understand why I had chocolate looking foam on my oil cap, then I smelled it. It was clearly not chocolate foam.

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Thanks! I dont go over 3000rpm (read that somewhere) until the needle is in the middle of 180F. Takes about 5 min. Or around 10 min now when it colder outside.

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The RPM limit you're mentioning is specified in the owner's manual, along with don't sit there to warm it up. Drive it. Soooo German, and I appreciate the kein bull schei� candor.

Can�t figure out where this leak is coming from. The pic is from right front wheel. Can it be power steering fluid somehow? Checked the reservoir and it�s a bit low but still in spec.

Little update on how it looks now 😌

If your steering rack seals are leaking, then yes, the PS can leak all the way along the rack and into the bellows.Squish them and you'll know . I would think that you'd get other symptoms that would tell you the seals are bad. Other causes are more probable, considering pump and rack are at opposite ends of the car, hence long lines amd multiple connections that could leak.

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A flood damaged car is always a future risk, water will �wick� the inside of a wire and cannot be detected. It would be best to part out the car or save the mechanical parts and have them torn down and inspected. Here in Canada we cannot re cert a flood damaged vehicle.

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Thanks for the input. Checked the strut and it seems that strut is leaking as well :-( (reason for upgrade, if I had the money :-) ).

Those look like the Sport Design rims as fitted to the 996 GT3, great color btw.. did you check under the frunk (front hood) to see the options label ? What color is the interior ? you have to get a Taco spoiler although they are hard to find and expensive, it�s the right look� hopefully you have looked into the required long term maintenance that this car may need.. nice looking car� def worth preserving it for the long term by doing the required stuff.. short list of some of the stuff � water pump brake fluid flush possible AOS then of course the status of the IMSB, what year is the car or more importantly what version of the M96 does it have, this would be a clue as to which version of the IMSB it has� also I believe the tiptronic transmission may affect what IMSB the car has � research research research lol. Good luck

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The AOS should be replaced with a UAOS. If you want extra oil in engine, then add the Track Drain". P-AOS is a "wart-failure point", and a new one from P is no different, and the "performance" version is the same. When adding the UAOS, drop the bottom pan and remove the 996 oil return tubes, replace with 997 oil return tubes 997 107 016 00. Needs 2 of them. Easy to do, low cost. YMMV

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The interior is all black.And yes, the plan is to do all the important maintenance to preserv the car :-) The plan is to take care of the IMS next winter. Love the car :-)