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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHReplacing Window Regulator - OM vs OEM?
Leading reported evidence
Install few of the uro units in other cars
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I’ve installed a few of the Uro units in other cars.
Leading evidence: 'Install few of the uro units in other cars' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install few of the uro units in other cars' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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For the marking, I use three pieces of painters tape with the door/glass closed.
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I have used both the URO and OEM my personal experience is that after about 3 years the Uro started making that dreaded crunching noise the OEM is still quiet after 5 years.
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Suggestion
Not a hard repair but I don’t want to do it more than once.😀
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Suggestion · Original poster
In a similar discussion on the 996 FB group, someone said to replace all the micro-switches while in there.
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Suggestion
Yes I have used them on both Porsches and 85 Mercedes CD, great work, and they get rid of the plastic pulleys and use metal pulleys, also come with lifetime warranty.
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I have used both the URO and OEM my personal experience is that after about 3 years the Uro started making that dreaded crunching noise the OEM is still quiet after 5 years.
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18 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I see a few options on Pelican Parts. One is an after-market with "Improved bearings" that supposedly reduce the force on the motor by 45% ($185) vs an OEM for $450.
Does anyone have any experience swapping in the cheaper aftermarket regulator? Would this be a back idea to save $300?
My driver�s side window regulator went out around 2 years ago. I remember running across several threads advising to stick with the Porsche OE part. Several mentions of aftermarket regulators failing fairly quickly after installation.
So I decided to spend the money for the Porsche part. Replacing the regulator wasn�t that difficult. But it�s worth the extra $300 if I can avoid doing again anytime soon.
I have used both the URO and OEM my personal experience is that after about 3 years the Uro started making that dreaded crunching noise the OEM is still quiet after 5 years. Not a hard repair but I don’t want to do it more than once.😀
Rich
I just recently replaced the passenger side one since it started making the crunchy noise and went with the URO one. The driver side has the URO one as well and has been trouble free for about 3-4 years now. The whole job took an hour and some change so not bad at all.
First one (orig) went after about 10 yrs and replaced at dealer with once that only lasted about 18mos. Then I replaced it myself for whatever was cheapest on Pelican at the time and it lasted another decade or more as long as I had the car.
There were some good guides and vids out there so lots of info on how to do it. I think mine took about an 60-90 min and was not complicated (mark the window clamp positions with a marker or tape before disassembly so reassembly is quicker).
For me, the window regulator isnt specially crafted with some magic Porsche-infused durability that justifies spending any more than necessary on it.
YMMV.
So after a bit of digging around on this, I learned there's a company in AZ that rebuilds these. I went through this last summer for my top hydraulic cylinders and the rebuild was a fraction of the cost of new OEM cylinders.
I'd be curious if anyone has any experience with them.
https://powerwindowrepair.com
$200 (plus shipping back and forth) and they said they reinforce known failure points. Aside from the 2-3 day turnaround it seems like the best of both worlds. If I carefully mark the windows, there shouldn't be much fiddling around to be aligned on reinstall.
For the marking, I use three pieces of painters tape with the door/glass closed.
Two along the window rubber (for fore/aft height) and one long piece along the mirror “sail”. Hasn’t let me down yet. As long as you’re precise with placement, it’s fairly painless to ensure alignment.
Yes I have used them on both Porsches and 85 Mercedes CD, great work, and they get rid of the plastic pulleys and use metal pulleys, also come with lifetime warranty. expect them to take a week to get the regulator back.
Meaning, one piece on the glass along the bottom where the glass meets the door rubber, one on the inside and one outside, or on the rubber of the rear window's rubber marking where the door glass aligned with that?
Good question.
I apply all tape to the outside. The two horizontal pieces are against the door rubber, one by the door handle and the other towards the mirror (to account for pitch front/rear). The vertical along be mirror sail handles for any fore/aft movement.
My apologies for lack of clarity. That�s what I get for writing on my phone.
Today I start the removal. In a similar discussion on the 996 FB group, someone said to replace all the micro-switches while in there. I hate to mess with anything that's still working, but... should I consider this as a "While you're in there..." addition to the project?
If your window has been dropping fine when opening the door I wouldn't replace them. At the end of the day, the door panel comes off with just a few bolts and 5 minutes worth of work so I wouldn't really classify this as "while you're in there". I usually apply that logic to jobs that require significant time to get to a particular area of the car.
Since last fall the window stopped doing the 1/2" drop when opening, so I was manually pushing it down before closing the door. It would go back up that 1/2" as soon as the door closed. I was told this was because of a small part on the regulator that likely had broken.
Is there a way to test the switch? Will this switch be obvious to spot once I'm in there?
This tip saved me. And in retrospect it's so obvious.
It also helped that I had mine rebuilt rather than buy an OEM or aftermarket regulator. This allowed me to take a magic marker and mark the positions on the lower regulator door mounts so that the original regulator went back in at precisely the same position as it came out. The whole process was so much quicker, and simpler, than I imagined it could be. Everything's been working now as it should be, with a closed window seal as good (or better) that before.
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