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YOUR RESEARCHNeed Alignment Guru Help
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Replace front l/r tires and rear tires
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Leading evidence: 'Replace front l/r tires and rear tires' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace front l/r tires and rear tires' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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The alignment numbers are not in the units used by the factory manual so I can't say for sure what's going on.
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Recently had the car re-aligned - I had to remove a strut due to a stripped bolt. Additionally, after I dropped and reinstalled the engine a lot of the cross members/etc. got loosened up or removed and it was pulling even more than before once everything was reinstalled. Was pulling to the right before the engine drop though.
996 C2 w/PSS10's.
It doesn't pull as hard to the right as it did before the alignment, but it does still drift/pull a little even on a perfectly flat road (or even left lane on a multi lane freeway), more pull obviously on crowned roads. A long time ago in a far far away land this car tracked perfectly straight and it would almost steer itself.
Not a binding caliper, tire pressures are perfect. Swapped front L/R tires and rear tires. Wheels were rebalanced. Still pulling. Tires have 200 miles on them. (pulled right with old tires too). At WOT it goes in a straight line. Hard on the brakes, straight line. Only when cruising down the road does it decide to pull to the right.
Here are the specs: Help!
The alignment numbers are not in the units used by the factory manual so I can't say for sure what's going on.
Generally castor differences will make a car pull one direction or another and these are not usually adjustable (though with aftermarket suspension caster might be adjustable)
Side note: Sometimes even with the stock suspension caster is adjustable -- a bit -- by loosening the strut bolts/nuts at the top and moving the strut top backwards or forwards (taking advantage of the adjustment provided by the fact the holes are larger than the bolts/studs) to adjust caster slightly and bring the two caster settings closer together.
Anyhow, I note the castor values for both front wheels/tires are the same.
Next I note rear toe is different from side to side. This usually ain't good.
The rear axle toe wants to be +10' +/- 5' with a max. diff. of 10'. You'll have convert the numbers above into the minutes values I quoted directly above.
From the looks of it I think you need to budget for a good 4 wheel alignment. If you want to adapt ROW or even custom alignment settings that's fine.
But get rid of that rear toe difference.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Thanks Macster.
I believe that...
The specs I provided are in decimal degrees. The whole numbers match up to the factory, but the part after the decimal require conversion to align with decimal minutes.
The specs in your factory manual are in degrees and minutes (non decimal).
So to convert the decimal degrees to degrees and minutes one would need to run it through a calculator.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
