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YOUR RESEARCHMaxJax Lift Anchor Type
Leading reported evidence
Use anchor epoxy
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used a anchor epoxy to ensure mine will never come out.
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Suggestion
Make sure that you use the exact size drill bit that the manufacturer recommends, don't round out the hole, thoroughly clean the holes with a brush and vacuum, and drill at least a half inch deeper than the embedment that you want.
Leading evidence: 'Use anchor epoxy' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean holes' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I've used these to mount heavy equipment to concrete slabs.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I agree with your method I also used the Wej-It 58s supplied by MaxJax and set them with extra strength epoxy, belt and suspenders.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Clean holes
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
Make sure that you use the exact size drill bit that the manufacturer recommends, don't round out the hole, thoroughly clean the holes with a brush and vacuum, and drill at least a half inch deeper than the embedment that you want.
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Suggestion
Two independent engineers who reviewed the ceiling�s specifications for the Globe estimated the ceiling�s weight was close to 5,000 pounds per bolt, which is more than bolts secured with fast-set epoxy were designed to bear over the long term."
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Suggestion
If, God forbid, you had a failure of the lift, the chance of having any recourse with the manufacturer went out the window when you used "unauthorized" anchors.
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Suggestion
Make sure that you use the exact size drill bit that the manufacturer recommends, don't round out the hole, thoroughly clean the holes with a brush and vacuum, and drill at least a half inch deeper than the embedment that you want.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
21 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T091943Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I recently moved and obviously left the MaxJax anchors/sleeves in the garage floor of the previous home. I called both Garage Equip Supply (where I purchased the lift), and Dannmar directly to buy just the anchors/sleeves. Neither would sell them separately, only as a "kit"... which includes the bolts, shims, anchors/sleeves, etc. for $60. All I need are the sleeves that are installed in the floor. Surely I can spend less that $60! Before I pull the trigger on the kit, thought I would ask if any of you MaxJax guys know what type of anchor/sleeve I need to purchase? These online merchants seem promising, once I know the type.
http://www.confast.com
and
http://www.concretefasteners.com
I am not a fan of the sleeves. I have done a lot of concrete work and the sleeves never seem to hold as well. I use wedge anchors, also called stud anchors. Make sure that you use the exact size drill bit that the manufacturer recommends, don't round out the hole, thoroughly clean the holes with a brush and vacuum, and drill at least a half inch deeper than the embedment that you want. If you want to really secure the studs in the floor, I would use epoxy. Also, drill a test hole to see what kind/ depth of slab you are working with...
You can easily use a Hilti type drop in anchor. These can be bought at fastening supply houses and even Home Depot has them. I've used these to mount heavy equipment to concrete slabs. TomF makes some good points though as it is very important to use the correct drill and drill bit to ensure the anchor holds properly. Good luck.
Whatever you do make sure a replacement anchor has the same load rating as the MaxJax anchors. Failure would be catastrophic. I would not use an expansion anchor, only an epoxied anchor - I have seen expansion anchors pull out before.
Clarification: When I say not an expansion anchor, I mean the std. types with the small cone at the bottom. Hilti makes a heavy duty expansion anchor that would be suitable, but they are not designed to be removed so if you are storing your MaxJax when it is not being used and then reinstalling it when needed, I'd say the epoxied inserts are a more practical choice.
I can't help but wonder if you'd just be better off buying their $60 kit. If, God forbid, you had a failure of the lift, the chance of having any recourse with the manufacturer went out the window when you used "unauthorized" anchors.
Plus, what's your time worth? I think the most you could realistically save by sourcing the anchor system yourself would be $30-40. I'm guessing you will spend at least 1-2 hours finding, verifying the load-worthiness and purchasing the anchors yourself.
Just a different point of view.
Wej-It PD-58 5/8" Diameter Drop In Anchor
http://www.amazon.com/Wej-PD-58-Diam.../dp/B002KI9AJM
OMG don't use an epoxy anchor!! They fail.
http://www.boston.com/news/local/bre...ontinen_2.html
Use a sleeve anchor.
Or maybe use the anchor that the manufacturer specifies and install it correctly.
I used the manufacturer anchors with the epoxy. Now instead of being held in the concrete by only the mechanical wedge it's also the held by the epoxy.
The finding for the failure was "bolts secured with fast-set epoxy could safely carry 4,285 lbs each, rather than the 6,350 lbs the designers had planned on. Two independent engineers who reviewed the ceiling�s specifications for the Globe estimated the ceiling�s weight was close to 5,000 pounds per bolt, which is more than bolts secured with fast-set epoxy were designed to bear over the long term."
Rick
99 996C4
87 944S
Rick
My point exactly, just saying use epoxy doesn't make it right It should be more like- use the right materials. Just as important is "what concrete is the floor made of."
I agree with your method I also used the Wej-It 58s supplied by MaxJax and set them with extra strength epoxy, belt and suspenders.
OP can get the Wej-It from Amazon for ~3.50 ea instead of the $6 that MaxJax charges. Then you just need a 5-6" long 5/8 bolt, nut and washers to duplicate the MaxJax installation kit.
Frank
This is an outstanding system if it is installed correctly. When I install my lift, this is the exact system I will probably use. More expensive, but worth it.
Incidentally, the Wej-it anchors mentioned above are one of the ones that I have had issues with. For this application, epoxy combined with a proper mechanical connection is unquestionably going to be the strongest.
The failure cited in the article above wasn't a failure of the product, it was a failure of engineering- they were way overloaded...
TomF,
I know that there is a discussion about sleeve vs. straight epoxy vs. hybrids vs...
The MaxJax supplied sleeve Wej-Its worked well for me in the 7.5 " thk 4000lb reinforced concrete used in my garage floor. Others have had major spalling/breakout problems both above and below the floor when using sleeve or wedge anchors. All that I can say is YMMV??
All points well taken. You clearly know your subject. The quality of the concrete has a huge impact on the success of the anchor retrofit. Your slab is what my garage slab aspires to be!
If one really wanted to be safe, pouring new pads reinforced with steel and "j" or "l" bolts tied to the steel would be the way to go. I am probably going to have to re-pour my slab (or pads) when I install my lift as I am pretty sure the depth is inadequate.
Cheers,
Tom
FYI - Be advised "J" bolts are no longer spec'd due to their tendancy to pull out when heavily loaded.
Hilti has a tech library for anchoring to concrete:
http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/page/m...ctedOid=-60251
I'm a structural designer in the oil and gas industry and we specify epoxy anchors all the time for anchoring heavy equipment and structural steel. Any anchor chosen will have to be used within it's design limits (duh) which is the most important point one should take away from this discussion.
If it were me, I'd just buy the kit from MaxJax and be done with it.
That is very interesting. Maybe I am calling them the wrong thing- I am talking about the j-shaped bolts that hook under and tired to rebar... I am surprised that they could pull out in any circumstance. I would expect the bolt itself to fail first. What is now the strongest? I am assuming that it is an embedded strap of some kind...
Remember I said "when heavily loaded". J bolts and embedded straps have their applications and are typically used for smaller loads although I guess they could be sized for larger loads though it wouldn't be the most efficient use. Other designs work that cost less.
The standard anchor bolt used in industrial applications is A36 steel (ASTM spec is A307) with a threaded portion at the bottom with nut/plate/nut secured by welding or simply damaging the treads so the nut cannot turn. The plate can be a simple washer or a square plate.
See pics of really big ones:
http://www.pipingtech.com/blog/categ...-bolts-embeds/
You shouldn't need ones that big for your lift! The most important point is an anchor bolt must be designed for the application and load. If it works, fine.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
