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YOUR RESEARCHWhat's the highest horsepower you can put into a stock 911 reasonably
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Replace since the 80's
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I used to be in the same camp with high compression motors being bad for forced induction but technology and engines have changed since the 80's to some degree that allow more forgiveness in FI a NA motor these days, especially in moderation and in low boost applications.
What's the highest horsepower you can put into a stock 911 reasonably
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Leading evidence: 'Replace since the 80's' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'shortened life span, too' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace since the 80's' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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What's the highest horsepower you can put into a stock 911 reasonably
shortened life span, too
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You can get the engine to make more HP but with not only the cost of the power add-ons, but with an increase in wear/tear, fuel consumption, dirtier emissions, and extra servicing costs and very likely a shortened life span, too.
What's the highest horsepower you can put into a stock 911 reasonably
Run around $1700-$1800 new
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OZ cast aluminum Alleggeritas (sp?) are very light and strong, and a set will run around $1700-$1800 new from Tire Rack.
What's the highest horsepower you can put into a stock 911 reasonably
Set will
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OZ cast aluminum Alleggeritas (sp?) are very light and strong, and a set will run around $1700-$1800 new from Tire Rack.
What's the highest horsepower you can put into a stock 911 reasonably
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Replace since the 80's
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I used to be in the same camp with high compression motors being bad for forced induction but technology and engines have changed since the 80's to some degree that allow more forgiveness in FI a NA motor these days, especially in moderation and in low boost applications.
What's the highest horsepower you can put into a stock 911 reasonably
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shortened life span, too
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You can get the engine to make more HP but with not only the cost of the power add-ons, but with an increase in wear/tear, fuel consumption, dirtier emissions, and extra servicing costs and very likely a shortened life span, too.
What's the highest horsepower you can put into a stock 911 reasonably
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Just came across this
http://vf-engineering.com/carrera-996/
and I have to say it looks pretty sexy. Anyone know anything about these? I talked to my porsche mechanic and he said you can get another 30-40 hp into a stock 911 for about $800 in mods, but then I saw this and well, I'm curious.
First of all you obviously never want to damage the car's life or great driving, and you also don't want to drop a fortune, at that point, you just buy a something faster.
$8000 isn't cheap but it's not crazy either for a lot of fun horsepower added to a beautiful low mile car.....if it works.
Honestly, Porsche did a pretty decent job wringing power out of this engine from the factory, and there isn't a whole lot more you can do to it without spending boatloads of cash. If you're lucky, you can probably get your car up to ~350hp with custom exhaust, some bolt ons and some dyno tuning from someone who knows what they're doing. To get much more power than that, you're truly better off [financially] just selling the car and buying a Turbo.
If you search around, you'll find there aren't a lot of people doing high power builds with the naturally aspirated cars. And it's not because people are scared of modifying their precious car, it's because the costs involved in doing it add up incredibly quick and put you in "should have just bought a Turbo" territory.
If you're looking for more power, the easiest way to go about it would be to put your car on diet. The power will be the same, but there will be a lot less car for that power to move around.
The GT3 forum is insane about weight loss, there are some really good threads in there about ways to drop weight. Best of all, most of the weight loss stuff is nearly free.
Yes I know they're different engines but the GT3 is also a 3.6 yet puts out 380 horsepower. So I wouldn't say it's impossible to get more power out of these engines. It just might be a lot more cost effective to go with the whole vehicle upgrade instead of modding our engines.
Best and most effective would be lighter wheels IMO. Faster acceleration, better throttle response, better suspension control, better braking, slightly better mpg in some cases. A win on many levels. And you're not sacrificing creature comforts like other weight diets.
I believe the 996 GT3 makes its additional power by way of different heads, higher RPMs, and different tuning. To make 20-30 more HP in a standard 996 is a fairly simple matter of higher flowing intake, exhaust, and an ECU tune. Beyond that, as has been said, you're talking about major reworking that won't be simple or cheap and, unless done by someone who really knows what's what, can result in disaster. (Here, I'm thinking of Jake Raby as the "what's what" guru.) Forced induction on a 996 with stock internals is, in my opinion, asking for trouble.
Lighter weight can be had from removing sound deadening, rear seats, subwoofer, rear stereo speakers, spare tire and related tools -- all of which are pretty much free (dollar wise) though they introduce some compromises to everyday enjoyment for some.
Light-weight wheels are a good option but can get very expensive very quickly if you venture into the forged-wheel universe. OZ cast aluminum Alleggeritas (sp?) are very light and strong, and a set will run around $1700-$1800 new from Tire Rack. Forged wheels are stronger and equally light, but will easily cost twice that or (much) more.
Light-weight racing seats can also save a fair amount of weight, but either will give you a definite "hey, check out my race car" look (a la Sparco Evo, etc.) or else will cost for GT2 or other stock Porsche racing seats.
Lighter, especially if you're planning on tracking the car at all, is always the first route I explore. It's cheaper and it not only improves acceleration, but braking and cornering as well. Once the car is as light as you can live with/afford, then explore horsepower. I know, horsepower is what wins bar-stool races...
Between the exhaust, rear seat removal, forged wheels and RWD conversion I've dropped well over 130 pounds off my C4S and you can really tell the difference.
I think these cars respond well to slightly wider front wheels plus 5 mm spacers all around, something you can do when selecting aftermarket wheels. I use stock width 225 mm Michelins on 8.5 in. wide front rims, which with the spacers gives you approximately 3/4 inch wider front track which seems to improve turn in a lot. Driven hard, I personally think these cars have more than enough power.
I'll be keeping the engine cover, I just can't imagine getting rid of the red stripe between the tail lights.
I have considered the idea of gutting it and molding a duckbill to it, though. We'll see if it ever comes to fruition.
Word! The M96/M86 engine is just not a particularly tunable engine, and that's a GOOD thing, it means Porsche got it right the first time. Remember, a reciprocating internal combustion engine is basically a big air pump. Figure out a way to get more air thru it and it will burn more gas and thus generate more horsepower. Your basic air intake/exhaust/O2 table mods just don't work on this guy. And the already high compression ratio (not to mention Porsche's air intake manifold voodoo) makes the engine wildly unsuited for turbo charging. Supercharging has it's own set of drawbacks but is theoretically somewhat effective with this engine (there are plenty of writeups on this already.) Bottom line ... your best bet is sell the car you think is underpowered and go buy the car that suits your needs. Save the tuning for the honda civics.
Hey wait a minute! I made all these same points about increasing the power of the M96 including reasons not to SC or TC a HC ratio stock engine and I got abused worse than a ______.
Alp, somebody, help me?????? Am I missing something? I think some of my bro's here just like to beat up on me.
Heres what the king of M96 knowledge has to say:
by JR
The context was different in that thread. That thread was a "
can
I do this to get more power" context, this thread is about whether or not it's
worth it
.
Can you do it? Sure.
Is it worth it? Probably not.
I'm just sick of rehashing the same ol arguments is all.
Look, VF SC has been around for quite some time with thousands of happy users and if there were some issues, we would've heard about them by now on these forums.
TPC has changed from SC and have been pushing their turbo kits and have been around for a couple years with many satisfied customers as well.
Despite all the theory BS with high compression, yada yada, there are real world case scenarios that you simply can't argue with. I used to be in the same camp with high compression motors being bad for forced induction but technology and engines have changed since the 80's to some degree that allow more forgiveness in FI a NA motor these days, especially in moderation and in low boost applications.
As for maximizing power from NA perspective on the M96 motors, I don't think it's very cost effective for what your getting compared to other motors(LS for example). But there are a couple dozen dyno graphs out there proving you can pick up a bit here and there.
I'm hoping to find out myself this summer when I'll have maximized bolt-ons along with a ECU tune to see where my journey takes me. I'm willing to take one for the team and finally squash these theories to see how much of an improvement can be made or not.
Define reasonably.
I'd say what's reasonable is what HP the engine produces as it comes from the factory.
You can get the engine to make more HP but with not only the cost of the power add-ons, but with an increase in wear/tear, fuel consumption, dirtier emissions, and extra servicing costs and very likely a shortened life span, too.
If you can live with the risk and additional costs then mod and up the HP to your heart's content (and you wallet's ability to absorb the punishment).
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
