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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWhat did you do to your 996 today?
Reported repair
Install ipd plenum and 82 mm throttle body
Reported resolution
1
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Reported fix
Replaced the high pressure power steering line in my C4S and was rewarded!: No more leaks, and found out that a previous owner installed an IPD Plenum and 82 mm throttle body!
Leading evidence: 'Install ipd plenum and 82 mm throttle body' (1 discussions report resolution; 0 report an unsuccessful attempt). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is '$200+' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Install ipd plenum and 82 mm throttle body' (1 discussions). For that action, 1 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. The most frequently reported fix is 'Install ipd plenum and 82 mm throttle body', supported by resolution reports in 1 discussions. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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1
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Reported fix
I fixed my "central journal" with a layer of JB Weld to replace the plastic $1 cap that Porsche discontinued to oblige us to buy the whole part.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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1
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Repair by repositioning the window more forward in the clamps
Reported resolution
1
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported fix
Fixed by repositioning the window more forward in the clamps.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Install ipd plenum and 82 mm throttle body
1
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that report a fix
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported fix
Replaced the high pressure power steering line in my C4S and was rewarded!: No more leaks, and found out that a previous owner installed an IPD Plenum and 82 mm throttle body!
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause
I've always suspected it was the accordion hose that went to the bottom of the AOS but when I removed the hose it seemed fine and when I inspected the o-ring it also seemed to be fine.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Install ipd plenum and 82 mm throttle body
1
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that report a fix
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported fix
Replaced the high pressure power steering line in my C4S and was rewarded!: No more leaks, and found out that a previous owner installed an IPD Plenum and 82 mm throttle body!
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
13,060 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 16 excluded by outcome qualification · 12 adjusted by outcome qualification.
112 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Searched pretty throughly through the 996 forum to find and bump a thread like this if it existed. I couldn't find one, so I thought I would start a new thread where people could share what they accomplished for the day without having to post their own new thread.
Its one of my favorite threads on the 997 forum ,as it is updated multiple times daily. Lets see if we can get this one bumping.
First post is a friendly PSA. Get that front bumper off and clean off those radiators. Car was cooling fine, and any cooling improvement remains to be seen, but man did it feel good to clean 20+ years out of my 99 C2. Having the bumper off is a great opportunity to respray any plastic thats faded with a black or a clear coat.
"First post is a friendly PSA. Get that front bumper off and clean off those radiators. Car was cooling fine, and any cooling improvement remains to be seen, but man did it feel good to clean 20+ years out of my 99 C2. Having the bumper off is a great opportunity to respray any plastic thats faded with a black or a clear coat."
Yup, those are some pretty dirty rads. Should cool things down a bit!
Only thing I did to my 996 today was put down the top and drive it.
The first thing I did after cleaning the radiators was to repaint the red safety latch for the frunk. Mine was really faded and since all of the trim pieces were removed, it made it easy to mask off and paint. I used some I left over from doing my calipers. It's been at least four years and it's holding up great.
Did the first oil change on my engine since the rebuild. All looks good after 500 miles in the BR30 break in oil, just some fine ferrous grit on the mag drain plug. Nothing to worry about IMO, but I haven�t cut open the Napa filter yet. Too hot to handle at this time.
Replaced the oil with DT40, will do the next change after 2-3000 miles or by winter whichever comes first.
Pic of grit on plug:
I used the exact same link that wild bill sent.
Takes a few hours, and the only out of the ordinary tool required is a torx bit. Great project for a cool summer morning, like todays!
Had to break out the bucket and get a wash in on this gorgeous day. Also anxiously awaiting the arrival of the package I ordered from Tarett engineering.
I did the radiator thing last week. Mine looked really similar to the initial photos in the thread, so I won't post more of the same. The new Valentine 1 and the Blend-mount arrived Saturday, so the install is the next project.
Sure! It's on eBay where he'll accept a reasonable offer for the spoiler. Note that there are 2 styles for the 996: early 996 front bumper and the Mk2 version.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911...YAAOSwviBZ1rqj
I did two things today that I added to my car....
1) Added a sticker on the back window with a tribute to my friend....the Porsche Legend Bruce Leven
2) Added a new FVD shifter that I had changed to yellow to match my car
Gave my baby a bath this morning, then met a couple of friends from Lexington KY for some nice drives in western NC. Waynesville NC to Hot springs via “the rattler” route 209, then route 25 back to Asheville.
http://www.209therattler.com/
Just finished off front end today new coffin arms , New inner and outer track rods, some new brake pipes, shock refurb, New bump stops and a paint up till I can afford some B8's, replaced corroded brake lines and bleed nipples!! Installed Hel braided brake lines phew!!
What did I do?
Put gas in it and drove the snot out of it.
Just like yesterday, and the day before, and the day before that.
125K miles with this puppy and still going...
Got these Tarett solid motor mounts in and took it out for a shake down/ test drive before the rain hit. So far I am impressed with the feel of the solid motor mount, I could notice a difference as soon as I fired up the car in the drive way. Interior vibration and engine noise has increased some due to losing the minimal absorption the original 20 year old mounts offered. Love the sound of the engine, so I don't mind the more pronounce noise in the cabin one bit.
Out of curiosity, what maintenance have you had to do since about 80k miles? Just wondering what the ongoing costs are to keep a high mileage 6.3 on the road.
Yeah, wait until you get it on the highway for a drive.
The increased road noise will be much more than you expected.
I went with the RSS mounts, which have some damping, but it still transfers the tire noise into the cabin significantly more than the OEM mounts.
However, it does feel a lot better!
Gas, oil, filters, tires.
One seal on the back of the engine. Water pump. Heater core. Coolant hose. Headlight switch.
I have 130K on the clock and it's about due for its first clutch. While I have the engine out I want to do: coil packs, plugs, pinning the coolant pipes, rubber hoses, Guards LSD, and a suspension refresh (probably Ohlins R&T).
These cars are extremely robust. Even the original clutch has lots of life and the Mezger engine is bulletproof. No IMS bearings nor cylinder issues. Even at this mileage it doesn't leak or consume any oil at all.
No, sir. It came stock. It's a true 2004 GT3.
I got really lucky and stumbled across it at my local dealer in 2006. Had 5,500 miles on it. Couldn't believe it was sitting on the lot, so I bought it with the provision they would have it ready in one hour. I was to meet what was to be my future wife for our first date that evening. I didn't show her the car, just parked it at the end of the parking lot. Wasn't sure what she would think of a guy with a fancy red car.
When we married, we did on the same anniversary that we met (purchased the GT3) and used it as part of our wedding photoshoot in Saint Augustine.
Only upgrades (so far) are Fikse wheels and RSS mounts.
Tuesday evening I did a little PDR (glue pulls - none of the long wire thingies) and removed 4 little dings in my passenger side door. Sorry, no photos
Finished my homelink project. Installed the buttons where the ashtray normally sits. Bought a cheap unit on eBay, opened it up and used only the circuit board and buttons. Made a mounting plate out of plastic. Required a fair amount of fine tuning to fit the space.
Paint was a 2 step process, rustoleum gloss black, then a top coat of rustoleum multi color texture paint. Color and texture are very close, not perfect.
i like the fact that all 3 buttons are available, and the small light is visible when a button is pushed.
Glue pulling is a technique where you use hot glue and plastic or aluminum nibs with a special puller to remove dents without having to paint/refinish. I had a bunch of hail damage removed about a year ago and was so impressed with the results that I ordered a kit and learned how to do it my self (after paying the guy $1100...
- which btw was worth it)
there are you tube videos...
Just curious, which kit and how much. I have a few dings that I'll probably have a body shop fix when I have my door dent repaired, but I'm curious about this process.
Welp... I just drove mine.
Fresh back from the shop for a failed door arming mechanism, I put the top down, drove over the hill to Half Moon Bay, and then drove down Highway 1 to Santa Cruz.
Had a fine lunch there on the Pier, stopped by Sylvan Music to check out their great vintage guitars for sale, and then cruised back home. A great outing!
Bill
I had a PDR guy do my car last year for $300 and he pulled at least 10 dents. The mad skilz he had are something that seemed beyond me...I would be very hesitant to do my own PDR, but people on this forum seem to carry out the impossible every day.
I don�t remember exactly what kit I bought. It was around $150 - they�re all pretty much the same. The quality is decent and it all came in a canvas zip up bag. The one I got has 3 different pullers and a bunch of different nibs, hammer tools with different changeable plastic tips etc. and a mid sized glue gun with lots of black glue sticks... it�s a trial and error thing - takes a little getting used to, but the results are fantastic.
Thursday: searched for and located the manual frunk cable on my 05 C4S, found out it's on the passenger side just under the headlight behind the front wheel well cover; used a makeshift coat hanger to reach in and hook through the cable loop to pull the latch open; saved the groceries that were locked in the frunk (hot weather and raw meat are not a good combo); lubricated lock mechanism which was stuck; buttoned everything back up and grilled some tasty steaks!
Yeah, it�s an art for sure! I�m not claiming to be an expert by any stretch, but simple dings are pretty straight forward. There are some good YouTube videos that show and explain exactly what�s going on that are very helpful in understanding how the metal moves and stretches, and what you need to do to get it back to its original shape.
I've also walked away extremely impressed with a paint less dent removal specialist. It was amazing watching him work, especially since the spot that needed the dent removed was on the front fender behind the arch of the wheel. Got it out in no time, and didn't leave a mark on the car.
I�m finishing up on covering the center console in leather, getting rid of the ashtray, and relocating the window switches to the horseshoe on the dash. Here�s the mock up-
After all of these years....I finally put in a permanent solution for my V1....I am getting power off of the sunroof switch which I have never used in 8 years...no fuse though since I figured I can leverage the Sunroof fuse. I guess I could fry the V1 but will take that risk.
Very sleek and nice workmanship. Gives a whole different appearance.
However, I have owned several of these cars and I wonder if you won't quickly miss a "non-smoker's shelf" or even the ashtray for things like cell phone, sun glasses, change for tolls, etc.
Just as an aside: I removed my console last year to paint it and put in the non-smoker's kit. There was $27.85 in change stuck under the console from PO*. Paid for the paint.
* here in Kanukistan we have $1 and $2 coins...so while this was more change than I was expecting, it wasn't 20lbs of quarters.
My yearly oil and filter change with hardly anything on my magnetic plug. No little bits on my oil filter. Original IMSB and clutch with just shy of 78k miles. Replaced my cabin filter and air filter as well.
Finished the install of my custom ashtrayless console and relocation of the window switches to the dash. Installed my stock mufflers back in with the �Fister� mod, and cleaned the radiators this weekend:
Oil change day. Installed spin on filter adapter and magnetic drain plug also. I guess after owning it 6 years figured it was time. Old filter looked great without any metal that I could see.
Got new rear tires. Wow what a difference all around. Hadn't replaced them for a few years and the old ones were downto the wear bars and even had some core showing. New ones are much quieter.
I bought a kit from Amazon after watching this video. The kit I bought is very complete and was only $68. I tried it out my VW to get the hang of it before diving into my 996. The 996 had a pretty deep ding in the fender right by the fuel door. The ding was 90% gone after the first attempt. I did a few more pulls and now it's almost perfect. I might try to get it back to 100% if I have some time. At the moment I'm happy because you really have to look for it to see it.
The guy in the video says that this video is the second part but there is nothing interesting or informative in the first video so start with this one.
You Tube
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New Sport Techno wheels from Porsche
New Pirelli P Zero Rossos (because so few manufacturers still make a 295/30/18)
Mount, balance, and four wheel alignment
Paint correction, headlight restoration(as good as it is going to get), interior and exterior detail, and exterior ceramic coated.
New trans gear oil, coolant, brake fluid, emissions and inspection
This of course wasn't all done today. It's been a work in progress since late June juc finished yesterday.
Been wrestling much of the day with:
Kenwood Double DIN head unit install prep - remove stock unit, move wiring, grind plastics, etc. Test run sounded nice, will need to install Porsche start up screen graphic.
Try to figure out best way to fish cable for rear view camera, then got sidetracked by obsolete K40 install from long ago. Removed rear bumper cover to remove sensors, but more remain in the cabin and frunk.
Tried to prep for GPS and microphone cables, then got sidetracked by leaves stuck under front cowl, so had to clean that out
forgot to get 3M flue tape to fix the "shooting foam" while head unit is out, so ordered it.
Metra HVAC relocation trim just doesn't fit well, so ordered Porsche parts from Rod @Car Audio Innovations in the hope that it will fit better. Rod shipped it within 30 minutes of ordering on a Saturday, can't ask for more.
So the car is a mess and probably will be for at least another week or so....
To be honest, I�m not sure if key in or key out matters. I feel better with the key out. You may find it handy to put the key back in to unlock the steering column, but I�ve never had to in many steering wheel and airbag jobs. I just use a 1/4 inch socket with a torx and short extension, and it works great.
It was a good week for my 2002 996 C4 w/ 48K miles !!
Today:
- LED Light Upgrade - nice to actually be able to see the inside at night
- 997 Short Shift Upgrade - short shift is an awesome upgrade (not as pretty as some of the others mentioned in this thread) - instructions are definitely lacking, but no issues
This Week (Mostly shop work):
- Ohlins R&T - great upgrade
- Replaced original coolant tank before it failed
- New engine mounts
- Replaced fluids
- New coils and spark plugs
- New drive belt
Next Week:
- Rennline Pedal Upgrade
Ah... Feels like a new car !! Now I need to find a DE/AutoX to break it in !
Any recommendations? My experience has been as follows...
PEARL: Out of business, a little concerned to buy with no tech support
ZUS: I bought 2, then installed and they worked great for a few weeks. Now won't hold a charge and are useless.
Thanks!
Need to pull the bearing seal and reseal the flange, then change the RMS. Pulled everything off to long block form for inspection and cleaning...Anything else while I'm here?
LN Engineering has some instructions for IMS retrofit...but it may also apply for updating the flange. See here and scroll down to download the instructions
https://lnengineering.com/products/f...-106-0822.html
Hello 1stz,
Can you provide us some feedback on this set up. I may go this route with the Torque Solutions semi solid motor mounts and Orange Softer Function First Transmission mount support as well. Where did you purchase the Function First mounts?
Thank you.
FWIW, I installed the black (race) PowerFlex trans inserts, feed back was improved however the noise and vibration was overwhelming, was like being in the VanDieman. Switched to the yellow inserts now highway driving is bearable again. Have since replaced the torn trans mount with new OEM, still with yellow inserts, no complaints.
I'm a big fan of OEM for the street. The biggest difference I've noticed with the semi/solid mounts/inserts is that it's easier to find the gear you are looking for in mid turn on the track. I can't say I've noticed it performance wise anywhere else.
+1 on the yellow insert and what Slakker said. A little more NVH with WEVO, yellow insert; but those and a 1 lb steel shifter with a 1/2” raise means a more confident 3-2 or 2-3 shift for me and my machine.
I�ve only driven the car about 100 miles since installing both the engine/trans mount but so far I feel I got really lucky with my choice. Definitely more vibration in the cabin. Most noticeable on initial starts and during low rpms (~1500-2500rpm) when I am just slowly warming up the car and coming to a stop and/or coming to a light making turn. Noticeable enough that even when have the radio volume on medium high, I feel the vibration. That said, whe I mentioned I got �lucky�, I said that because I feel like I got the right amount vibration (�race car feel�) and yet still tolerable as a street car.
I�ve gone through several cars over the years that went from a sport car and turned into a track car. On all these cars, I always made the mistake and going overboard. Well now that I do not really track the car anymore, I wanted to be careful and not go overboard again. I think l lucked out the engine/trans mount set as I do enjoy little bit more of vibration & sound or overall feel of the car. That said, my C4S is not my daily. I only use it when I go on runs with friends going to different car events.
i will try and provide more update as I put on more miles. My initial impression is that I enjoy the little bit more of vibration/sound and overall feel of the car when I�m going through the gears. If it�s your DD, I imagine someone may find it annoying. But if you are in the �mood� or feeling sporty on particular Saturday morning and going on runs with friends, I enjoy it a lot. It reminds of my past track cars but still compliant when you are putsin around town. Hope that helps.
i bought all the parts from pelican...
Lots of work to my "new" 2000 Carrera in the last few weeks.
Michelin Pilot Sport 4s tires.
Catching the car up on its maintenance:
- Minor maint. Air filter, oil filter, oil.
- New brake fluid.
- Major maint. Fuel filter, belt, spark plugs.
- Ignition coils.
- Engine mounts.
- Transmission oil.
- Transmission mounts.
- Repaired front bumper.
Done by Marvin at the Rennshop in Mountain View, CA. High recommended.
Fister Sport Exhaust. I had it swapped out at shop, FD Motorsports, in Brentwood, CA. Sounds really mean on acceleration and no drone cruising at freeway speeds. Love it.
Continental TR7412UB-OR head unit. Only thing here I did myself. Super easy with the wiring harness from BergvillFX. Love it. Bluetooth works great and it's a million times better looking than the gaudy Alpine head unit it replaced.
Should have taken a picture with the car on, the orange matches everything else nicely.
Todo: Center console delete. Those don't come in the Space Grey of my interior so I'm going to do back. Also going to toss in back floor mats, black GT3 shifter and a black 3 spoke wheel. I think the contrast will look good. Really looking forward to getting rid of the four spoke wheel.
And here is a photo I liked from last weekend:
Hwy 120, Yosemite, CA.
New brake pads all around, new front rotors (rears done abt 16k miles ago so good for quite a while), SS brake lines and brake flush. Also added some "bling".
Brushed aluminum trim rings from didotuning
My wife thought the car deserved an"S" designation with the Flat6Innovations engine.
Replaced the starter. No pics, but it is an exercise in patience and a test to see how many 3/8" socket extensions you can piece together to reach into the void.
I had the startup screech that seems to affect the factory Bosch starters -
YouTube link
That looks awesome! Where did you buy it and do you have any install pics? Right now, I'm using the standard radio with a Tranzit BLU HF unit hooked up for bluetooth. The mess of wires are hidden behind the center console and I'd love to do a console delete but retain bluetooth capability and stock-ish look
I am also shopping, have been studying the Continentals. Look here:
https://www.bergvillfx.com/index.php...ead-units.html
I think these are an excellent choice, they look great, and many have been pleased with them.
The 2 things I am struggling with are:
1. it doesn't come with line level outputs (only speaker level). My 996 has the Bose system and I want to keep using the amplifier, so I may need a line-output-converter to make it work -- just worried about additional noise and signal degradation.
2. I am getting to be a fan of Pandora, or Spotify, or internet radio, and these don't have the internal functions to control those systems like other modern radios -- of course the Continental will be just fine if you select songs from your phone.
This weekend I installed a front camera to help avoid hitting Concrete parking stops with my new GT3 bumper (I scraped it first trip out) I also installed DRL's and had to wire them direct to a switched fuse as two separate controllers made them flash (I have no idea why) Big shout out to the person who told me the pass through grommet was behind the battery, I never would have found it. I also installed a load resistor on the new LED 3rd brake light in the duck tail which was causing warning light issues, and last but not least I installed wheel spacers, 7 mm in front and 15 mm in back. So all in all a pretty busy weekend.
After 5 years of me begging for these types of badges to be made, (he hates marketing) Mr. Raby has finally given me the green light to make a new series of body badges for the original owners of our engines. These will be high quality, with a �bubble top� laminate.
^^I like it!
Me and mine, not a damn thing,,, it's our busy season (been working my butt off) and it's been to hot and humid. If I can't start working on the project at 6-7 am it's too late!
Morning update, this thread motivated me to get up and down the hill...Labeled and pulled my wiring harness, starter, fuel rails and sent the injectors out for cleaning.
Has anyone tried this impact wrench? I've bent the handle on my 3/4" driver trying to get the nut off the rear wheel of the flippin TT.
https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-...nch-62892.html
i doubt anything from hf will hit hard enough. With a 3/4 gun u need a 1/2" hose and a lot of air. U would look at the ingersol rand titatium guns in 1/2". I can put differential crush sleaves down with mine. I use a sumilar 3/4" ir gun to pull my toterhome lugs.
That's what finally got it. My old 3/4" breaker bar bent trying to get it off. I tried the HF 1100ft/lbs impact gun and no luck. Took it back and got their 20" - 3/4" breaker and 4' piece of 1" gas pipe for a cheater. Popped like ball joint when it finally cracked loose.
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They also make torque multipliers we use this for our toter lugs that wont break free. Im not sure it will work on a cl wheel but might be worth a try.
https://www.ebay.com/p/Heavy-Duty-Torque-Multiplier-Set-Wrench-Lug-Nut-Lugnuts-Remover-Labor-Saving/581336230?iid=382405314353&chn=ps&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay. com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fp%2525 2FHeavy-Duty-Torque-Multiplier-Set-Wrench-Lug-Nut-Lugnuts-Remover-Labor-Saving%25252F581336230%25253Fiid%25253D382405314353%252526chn%25253Dps%2 526itemid%253D382405314353%2526targetid%253D392997620110%2526device%253D t%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9007481%2526poi%253D%2526campaign id%253D886127435%2526adgroupid%253D44133422373%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-392997620110%2526abcId%253D953836%2526merchantid%253D101678889%2526gclid %253DCj0KCQjwquTbBRCSARIsADzW88zXHIUfcjoSsuNNZgfQQiVKhE9w9ldv41mp0nwbinh s9MAQWeG4fNQaArb2EALw_wcB%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1637169298214%2526rvr_ts%253D531814611650aad73e04e288ff ea9793
Or this style
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200623947_200623947?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hand%20Tools%20>%20Wrenches%20>%20T orque%20Wrenches&utm_campaign=Klutch&utm_content=41488&gclid=Cj0KCQjwquT bBRCSARIsADzW88wTWihjH9PZlvtI0R6c_PYIiyh-3wYUBWsqaA7Pzj-su-8ofBd6oOMaAoeAEALw_wcB
Just found out it's a total loss. Guess it a has some structural damage and front tub needs to be replaced. I was hoping it would be totaled. It had 108,000 miles on it but it ran flawlessly. No leaks didn't use any oil. Put in new clutch, IMS bearing, RMS, coolant tank, starter, new battery, new rotors and brakes all around within the last year The air bag didn't deploy and drove straight, no coolant leaks. Just gotta see what the insurance company is going to give me and then move on to a 997.
Make sure you hold out for fair market value and not necessarily their first offer. Use Hagerty, KBB, NADA and local examples currently for sale as reference points. Also, the Rennlist market place, bring a trailer and firstflatsix.com may be good resources for valuation. I just bought a 996 and made a spreadsheet of all of the good 996 manual coupes that were for sale with the mileage and asking price that I used as reference points. I'd be happy to share it with you if needed.
Looks nice, but why did you hide it behind that wooden monstrocity?
Just kidding, I like the ingenuity.
Now show a picture with your engine setting on it.
I don't know how but a big city metro bus full of passengers magically and suddenly appeared right in front of me. Those darn metro buses are always stopped where they shouldn't be.
Jerbartolo, if the insurance co tries to jerk me around I'd love a copy of your spreadsheet. Thank you.
Slakker, I can't wait. I trashed my last nt01s in 3 DEs. Outside edge corded. And I was pushing like crazy, so my exit speeds in 3rd were not in the powerband. Corner balance, ride height, and alignment scheduled for next Tuesday. Track UMC Sept 15, 16. Full course, and outer loop. My favorite configs. I kinda blame you a little for all the fun I'm having with this car
Repainted front parts of the sideskirts. Came out good enough for this area.
Forgot to take before pics from both sides: Here's the better side after the first sanding. Basically it looked like this, but the paintless parts were a bit more rough. Other side was worse since it's on the side that has more rocks on the road.
After
Other side after. And yes, that's an old (washed) sock
. I find them good for degreasing and other similar usage, where you just need something clean that can be thrown away after use.
Another thing that I did was polishing the exhaust tips. I don't know what they were covered in, but they were basically completely black and that black stuff didn't come off with water/normal car wash/iron or tar remover. Tar remover seemed to soften it a bit, so combined that with a manual removing.
Here's a bad "before" photo. Cropped from a larger picture but you get the idea. Only top part was chrome.
And here's how they look now. Little scratches from the manual removing process, but doesn't really matter in exhaust tips.
And also removed the black plastic that's under the registration plate. The owner before I cut the "FIN" part from the plates away, but the dealership still put the plastic thing there because it has their advertisement. Thinking about getting new plates with FIN text though. I personally like it, and on these customized plates the holes are not in the right place. You can also get "FINless" plates, but they look old in my opinion.
Here's how the card looked with that stupid underplate :
Repainted front parts of the sideskirts. Came out good enough for this area.
Forgot to take before pics from both sides: Here's the better side after the first sanding. Basically it looked like this, but the paintless parts were a bit more rough. Other side was worse since it's on the side that has more rocks on the road.
After
Other side after. And yes, that's an old (washed) sock
. I find them good for degreasing and other similar usage, where you just need something clean that can be thrown away after use.
Another thing that I did was polishing the exhaust tips. I don't know what they were covered in, but they were basically completely black and that black stuff didn't come off with water/normal car wash/iron or tar remover. Tar remover seemed to soften it a bit, so combined that with a manual removing.
Here's a bad "before" photo. Cropped from a larger picture but you get the idea. Only top part was chrome.
And here's how they look now. Little scratches from the manual removing process, but doesn't really matter in exhaust tips.
And also removed the black plastic that's under the registration plate. The owner before I cut the "FIN" part from the plates away, but the dealership still put the plastic thing there because it has their advertisement. Thinking about getting new plates with FIN text though. I personally like it, and on these customized plates the holes are not in the right place. You can also get "FINless" plates, but they look old in my opinion.
Here's how the card looked with that stupid underplate :
I finished building my catless custom x pipe inside a Borla muffler casing exhaust. Result? less drone than the last one and a supercup wail at WOT. Success. Also sorta 996 related, packed up my Carrera II BBS lighweights and sent them off to the new owner. Another set of rare wheels possibly incoming.
Pics to come
I bought my 99 C2 with factory Aero kit used, 3 years ago.
The price was right and everything checked out good, but the amount of road rash and scrapes to the front have always bothered me.
Today, I finally finished installing the 997 GT3 front bumper cover for the 996. This is made by NR Auto for the MK1 996. I am super pleased with how this turned out! My body shop did a great job with the paint match and I think I did a pretty good job with the installation of the cover, intake mesh grills and side marker lights.
EPiC: Duuuuude! That is a beautiful noise. RDL: What about your front undertrays? Do the stock ones fit the new nose? Mike: Are you doing upper and lower on the front, or just LCA? What made you decide on the GT3 OEM over the others? And BTW the cabin looked great. Was that a *Porsh* [sic] by the porch? Being in TN and all...
La Shana Tova, to my fellow Rennlisters who celebrate!
Figured I�d go into the new year with clean radiators. I have no idea when, if ever, they�ve been cleaned before, but here�s what came out. The carpet insulation is from the right side, paper towel from the left.
Keep in mind this car has lived its life in SoCal, there�s no �fall� here to spread leaves on the ground.
Thanks man! I'm very happy with it..it screams when you prod it, but on the way to the car show with the wife it cruises quiet enough that she was talking to her mom on the phone with no problem..even as I was gunning it a bit squirting thru traffic.
I need to get some 7k driveby vids..this thing is so fun now
Yes it is! That was Saturday and was the only dry day. Yesterday (Sunday) it poured down rain but C4 was eating it up. Have some good video of 120mph in the rain I just uploaded. The 3 local PCA Chapters - Hill Country, Maverick, and Lone Star, as well as the Houston BMW club put together another excellent HPDE event. Can't wait until the next one in March.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqpgKV4z7g0&feature=youtu.be
Debo sends.
Sounds like fun! I love the way these cars handle in the rain! I'm in the Longhorn region, they'll be at Harris Hill Sept 22. I definitely won't be tracking my car, but I may go to watch.
How much did it cost you for the day at the Circuit of the Americas?
$945 for three days. 4 sessions per day around 25 minutes per session. Classroom time as well, and adult refreshments and pizza provided at the end of the day.
D.
Yep, COTA is an expensive track to rent - $60,000/day. But for $315/day to drive it and get instruction it is worth it for me every single time. I need to get down to Harris Hill too. Was thinking of a membership there but haven't been out to see the track yet.
Debo sends.
New headers and a set of used Fabspeed Maxflo's going on. First side removed last night, other side removed tonight, new parts including new clamps, nuts, and header bolts are on the way. PB Blaster and a small torch resulted in zero broken bolts.
Oil change, Driven purchased from LN Engineering .
Magnetic drain plug installed .
15mm spacers installed all around.
Unfortunately looks like I have a crack in my oil fill tube..😐
Unfortunately no.
I have a prior commitment in the afternoon.
If I get the rest of my center radiator parts in time, I might be installing that early on the 22nd.
Since they're coming from NC, they might get a bit delayed due to the hurricane.
mostly aesthetics in my case. My car is pretty low and that exstenuated the gap in wheel well. I will be putting on some 8.5"and 11" GT3 wheel when i have the $$$$.
Just returned from a 9 day "no plan" trip up north. We went a little over 3000 miles in our 2004 996 with 86k miles on the clock. The car ran fabulous with no hiccups at all. When we do our vacations we just jump in the car and go making left/right turn decisions as we go. We couldn't have had more fun. I do like Montana where they don't put ethanol in premium
. Oh, and thanks V1...x5.
Our route.
Back in the garage with all the bugs gone.
Installed 160f Thermostat, now the gauge reads just across the 8 before it was between 8 and 0, so is a bit cooler. This is with AC on and in heavy traffic, 91f ambient temperature.
Awesome!
Thanks for the photo too.
My water pump was replace at FSI a few years ago when they did installed my IMS Solution.
I've been wondering if they perhaps installed the cooler thermostat or not.
My needle is normally at the leading edge of the 0, so I guess I won't be wasting money if I go ahead and buy a 160deg thermostat and install it when I install the center radiator.
For this weekend, I replaced my failing starter and the associated alternator/starter 'Y' cable. Used the 'hot water' trick to get the plastic housing off the new cable when installing it which made the routing of the new cable so much easier. Car had been experiencing slow starts, even when cold (more-so when hot), and the occasional screeching sound on startup that made going to Cars and Coffees an exercise in embarrassment when starting up to leave.
Car starts much better, faster now, even on hot starts, so feels like a new car.
In addition to that, I also upgraded my 997 shifter mechanism (put in last year for the shorter throws over the stock 996 unit) with Ben's short-shift kit and upgraded metal bushings. Haven't driven it a ton yet, but shifter feel is way more precise now. Looking forward to breaking that in over the next few days.
All in all, car feel fresh again.
Next, suspension refresh.... lots of 17 year old bushings that are starting to broadcast their age while driving. May switch to coilovers while I'm at it. We'll see. I put Koni FSD's on a couple years ago and they are fine, but I'm thinking I'd like it a little lower and tighter in the turns than the FSD's were able to deliver.
1) I still have a slight vibration above 80mph.
Since I just installed coilovers, and then had someone else align it, I decided to pull all the wheels and check torque on everything I touched and the alignment shop touched.
Everything was properly torqued.
I also torqued the wheels properly like normal.
I haven’t gotten a chance to test drive above 80mph, but I felt a little vibration at about 70mph.
2) I cleaned my wheels before remounting them.
3) I did the sidemarker mod.
My 996.2 wiring was different than the DIY instructions.
On the left, the black/white wire was not in pin 7.
It was in pin 4.
I backprobed the black/white wire and confirmed it was the correct wire.
On the right, I didn’t have the connector in the DIY instructions.
My connector went to a lighting controller.
I assume mine is different because I have Xenon lights.
I found a black/green wire and backprobed it to confirm it was the turnsignal.
Since there was little space to use butt splices, I used an IDC wire connector, which I really hate using.
But since it doesn’t carry much current, I’m sure it will be ok.
Get your tires Hunter Road Force Balanced, most all Discount Tire's have them. If the "number" is above 20 for a tire, then you're going to have issues with it.
Luckily it's time for new tires.
I'm kinda hoping it might be a wheel balance issue.
Still trying to decide between Michelin Pilot Super Sports (Loved them on my BMW) and the new Michelin Pilot Sport 4S.
I currently have some well used Bridgestone Potenzia S.04 Pole Position tires that were on it when purchased last year.
I've not been a fan of them, although they do seem to grip well.
I've thought they were a bit noisy compared to the PSS on my BMW.
But that's an Apple/orange comparison.
Drove it like it was stolen. Surrounded by some big horsepower. The 996 had no problem holding it's own. These cars are amazing! Many positive comments on my 200 cell xpipe w/ muffler deletes. It sounded amazing! UMC outer loop Saturday, UMC full course (second longest track in the nation at almost 4.5 miles). Come drive it with me sometime!
What did I do?? Drove it to work.. spirited drive on my normal commute, this car was meant to be driven, so I oblige. On my way home this morning, my bare bones 99 C2 6mt/LSD will turn over 180k on the original engine.
Later this week I'll finish the details on the custom exhaust I built and while it is off I'll install the RennLine motor mounts I picked up used here on RL. Also have a used Schnell short shifter en route and if it gets here on one of my days off it'll go in this weekend too.
#GetOutAndDrive
stay tuned
I finally bit the bullet and got my IMS bearing replaced. After much thought and research, I decided to go with the LN IMS solution. The clutch was also replaced with the job as well as the AOS and RMS. Not trying to sound like a commercial, but I'm so happy I can finally drive the car without the worry of bearing failure. Comparing the drive before the procedure until now, is like night and day. Here is a picture just after the IMS solution was installed and just before the RMS was replaced. If you notice, the surrounding area around the IMS solution has been cleaned. When they first removed the transaxle, the area around the OEM bearing was nasty. Coated with an oil residue.
IMS solution
NuttyProfessor, the IMS Solution will also help re-sale...if you're ever inclined to sell.
Me, I ordered new Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires this morning.
I should have them installed on Tuesday.
Also I'm waiting for some used center radiator and mounting parts from DC Automotive to arrive tomorrow.
They're in NC and they shipped them quickly after the hurricane passed.
I bought new hoses from Pelican, but decided to save a bit and buy the mounts and snorkel and other normally reused pieces from DC.
I also decided to get a used radiator for less than 1/2 new cost. (That might end up biting me)
I saved some money buying individual parts from two locations.
We will see if I run into any issues when I install everything within the next few weeks.
Thank you for the positive comment. However, I didn't look into having the IMS solution installed for resale potential. I went into it for durability, longevity, and performance. I'm hoping to keep the car for a very, very long time. Like most 996 owners know, the IMS bearing is the major weak point on these cars, but because of the research and development by Jake Raby and Charles Navarro, now these engines can last much longer and be saved from the landfill or metal recycle bin.
Good luck on your future radiator work!
replaced this- I couldn�t get the key out of ignition sometimes. Took me bout 4 hrs- good chance to clean everything. The interior scratches so easy so you have to be crazy careful with the prying and resting your gauge cluster on the leather dash surround. I had tried just replacing the electronic switch but that didn�t fix it. This was in a 04 C4S that already had the upgraded part. Fixed now it appears.
Replaced light switch. My symptoms were no instrument light and no tail light, but headlight, fog lights (front and back) all worked. See how the light switch came out when I just pulled on it. It took about 30 minutes but the switch was rather expensive, at $142 from getporscheparts.com.
MOT time , it's been a long road back from last winter when I skidded over the kerb on the ice breaking off the drivers front wheel, luckily no chassis damage just sheared the front suspension and tracking arm, insurance wrote her off but I bought her back and fixed her up, all new suspension on from now, new brake lines, a bit of tidying up in between work and dodging the weather!!
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Installed a new head unit to compliment my
recent speaker upgrade
.
I decided to replace the stock Becker head unit with this Continental CD7416UB-OR. There aren't a lot of choices if you're trying to keep the look period correct and still have all the modern features.
When I bought this car, I vowed not to do any mods that weren't reversible. I also never hack wiring in any of my nice cars so I bought this pigtail from Bergvill that makes it an easy plug & play.
Pulling the head unit out is no problem but I found that removing the HVAC controls makes the install soooo much easier. It's only two phillips head screws and the wires are long enough that you don't have to unplug anything.
It's a pretty good match on the display color too.
Nicely and neatly done! I've been intrigued about these Continental radios for some time because they have a very nice layout, modern features, and the look is similar to the classic Harman Becker radios of Porsche past. Porsche has been one of the leaders in remote amplification instead of relying on the radio unit to power the speakers. This has proven to be a better setup. My question to you is does your audio system involve the frunk amp? If so, how did you make the Continental work? I had spoken to one of the Continental reps a year or so ago and they said their radios didn't provide the pre-amp output like the Harman Becker radios (e.g. CDR-220) and that the speaker level output would have to be used to drive the speakers. That's fine if you only have a four speaker system, but most of the systems in the Porsche 996 cars are 6 speaker systems. Plus, since the speaker output wiring is in the frunk, trying to interconnect from the Continental radio would be a nightmare. What radio was in your 996 before you switched to the Continental? Thank you.
I actually saw the continental install pics last night and decided to buy the non-cd version. Its exactly what i was looking for as far as look and inputs. To answere the amp question above. The continental will feed the factory non MOST amp through the speaker wires just like the factory head unit. The plug he posted will make it a direct no cut install. I have already swaped out my amp for an atermarket unit. When u r look for an amp just pick on that accepts "high line level" (normal speaker wire) of just get a converter. Its a pretty simple work around if u need "low line level" (rca outs).
Wrapped the center console with carbon vinyl, It came out very good. I'm waiting for the ashtray delete, then plan is paint that silver. For now I wraped that as well.
Is not to difficult, I started by cleaning the console with water soap and a scrubbing pad, this took off almost all the old paint. Then started with the vinyl on the drivers side and worked my way around, I had to heat the vinyl so it will stretch and cover the emergency brake curvature, the rest I barely had to use heat I was able to pull the vinyl hard and take away all the wrinkles this way.
This guys has a few videos on how to wrap, they were very helpful
You Tube
Not today but on Sunday. Applied Rain-X to windshield, windows, mirrors, rear window and, way more importantly, fixed my speedometer!
The actual physical overlay inside the panel wasn't sitting flat and was stopping the needle from spinning. I noticed a wavering look on the overlay and used a flashlight to see if it was touching the bottom of the needle. So I took the cluster apart (cleaned all the plug contacts I could on there), and after re-assembly, voila! Analog speedo worko! It seems to track right along with the digital readout (about 4-5 MPH above GPS), but at least they're consistent!
The Continental replaced a Becker CDR 220. I think De Jeeper explained the wiring as well as I can. I would add that my
adapter pigtail from Bergvill
is, as I understand it, for cars with the factory Hi-fi option(option code: 490). I'm not sure if it will work with the standard audio package.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWD7ZVX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWD7ZVX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V3YDR5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V3YDR5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Getting ready for the first track day of the year...
Struggled but got the Rennline kit in there with Corbeau seats
Self explanatory
Thanks for the recommendation Slakker!
Over this past weekend I installed the short shift kit I bought from Sweet Victory on here. For me at least, it transformed the feel of the car.. a little notchy but it lends to a sportier feel. I'm really enjoying it and I put almost 50 miles on it driving around late Saturday night trying it out. I hope to get to the RennLine mounts this weekend but the rain in the forecast is not looking conducive to that.
"as I understand it, for cars with the factory Hi-fi option(option code: 490). I'm not sure if it will work with the standard audio package."
This is the exact opposite of what the Continental distributor told me. He said the radio only had speaker level outputs and would not work with the factory amp. Looking at the owners manual it's hard to tell as they only list R+,R-, L+, L-.
We may be talking about apples and oranges here. De Jeeper says he's not using the factory amp (Hi Fi option). The factory amp is fed by line level outputs from the CDR-220, not speaker level outputs. I have emails from the manufacturer stating that it won't work with the factory amp. Others have reported they heard the same. If someone can confirm that they have successfully used this radio with the factory amp and speakers, it could be a very good option.
I'm confused about this also. The 7416 that SoCal911t installed, clearly says it has speaker level outputs only.
https://www.bergvillfx.com/index.php...7416ub-or.html
And the factory AMP needs line level inputs. The $55.00
harness
( adapter pigtail from Bergvill ) doesn't appear to have any active electronics, so I can't see how the signal is converted back down to line level. So does that means maybe the AMP has the possibility of speaker level inputs? I had been assuming that a Line-Output-Converter is needed, also about $40 - $50 depending on what quality is chosen. Those will bring the speaker level output from the Continental back down to line level for the just fine -- my big concern has been the 3 stages: 1. amplify to speaker level, 2. down to line level, and then 3. amplify once again to speaker level. How much noise and distortion will this create?
Anyway, I guess I just need to call Bergville?
I think the Continental sounds a little better than the Becker. I never listened to Mom when she told me to "turn down that music!" so my ears may not be the best judge though. The Bergvill adapter definitely is using some kind of output converter but I can't say if it's passive or powered. If I had known there was this much interest, I would have taken the shrink tubing off for a closer look.
To be honest the factory amp is not the best anyways i think the kenwood amp i bought was $200 and i was able to mount it to the factory bracket. Probaby a 10 fold improvement. If u wanted to keep the factory amp the low line level converters r cheap and i highly doubt u would hear any aditional "noise" or it would sound any worse then the becker.
I had Michelin Pilot Sport 4S installed on my car today.
Since I installed my Feal coilovers a few weeks ago I’ve had a bad vibration above 70MPH.
I went back and checked the torque on the lug nuts and all the suspension parts and double checked the control arm bushings.
I checked and I hadn’t lost a wheel weight.
I decided to replace my aging tires.
The vibration is gone!
Woohoo it sure drives nice now.
It‘s rainy today so I had to keep the speeds below triple digit, but 90MPH was smooth.
Weird that the vibration started right after I installed the suspension and got an alignment.
Installed a numeric shifter and cables. Its deffinately a mechanical feel. It turns out that the po had already installed an agency power short shifter, so the shift length is still about the same. I never check so now i have a shifter to sell.
I pulled the widebody C4S 18" twists off the 99 and installed my GT3 mk1 wheels. I never realized how heavy the twists are..LOVE the look, but if you decide to go for them, definitely spend the extra coin on the hollow spoke. I'm playing around with tire sizes, but just the difference in weight makes the car feel like I've jumped +50hp. Feels nimble and changed the whole dynamic of the car. It started raining while I was out so I took advantage of some empty lots and roads, and in the rain with the drop in unsprung weight she felt like a real GT3!!
WAYYYYYYY to early! Lots of nice autumn top down driving days still left! October is a great month for top-down mountain driving here in the Adirondacks!
Installed Ben's Ball Bearing short shifter. Night and day difference over stock. Best bang for the buck modification I've done
vWDyRXOh.jpg
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Thank you sir!
Still have to do the rest of the engine bay due to a Pentosin leak from AC compressor and years of dust...
It was time to service the air filter and I decided to clean the entire air box. I used brushes, soapy water and Meguiar's Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer to do so. Can't wait to see if it will stay like this for a while but so far dust doesnt seems to stick to it.
I also cleaned-up the MAF sensor with CRC MAF cleaner and it seems to have improve the idle a little bit.
On a side note I used Denso air filter and Im really impress with the fitment. Price difference was considerably higher for the OEM Porsche and I heard only good things about Denso. Hope I took the right decision!
Thanks
Hugo
Replaced the crappy Pioneer head unit with a Continental, which has bluetooth and DAB. Simple installation with a harness from Bergvill.
The Continental is much, much higher quality than the Pioneer, and looks pretty much factory.
Attachment 1349166
Very nice! The continental units have a classic flat black with orange LED look which matches most of the European cars like the 996. You'd think the major manufacturers (Kenwood, Pioneer, Sony, etc.) would learn from this company. The only drawback is Continental doesn't put simple pre-amp outputs on their unit. Bergvill uses a speaker-to-line resistors to get the outputs down to a suitable range for the Porsche amps. Not the best method, but it works.
If this is still around after the new year let me know!
Exhaust first (December) and shifter next. Then I'll start searching for a smaller diameter steering wheel...
Im a lazy seller so the shifter may still be around.
i too installed a new continental radio. I think it looks great and sounds good too. I went a step further and nought the Porsche sticker to complete the look.
I have yet to find a shop in the KC Area that has any clue how to do this...or even what it is. Did you just show them a photo and they figured it out? I'm curious because I was planning on shipping my '99 Carrera mufflers out to FD over the winter.
I get it that people want to save money where they can. Personally, I would (and did) send them to FD Motorsports. It will cost you more, especially because of the shipping, but the quality of the welding is top notch.
Installed a GBox detent.
My car has popped out of 2nd gear a few times since I bought it in Sept 2017.
I bought the GBox detent over 6 months ago.
2nd gear popped out again yesterday, so I decided to finally install it.
Also on the list for later today is wash the car.
Tomorrow is Cars and Coffee Porsche Day.
I'm trying to decide if I want to get up and go or just sleep in.
It all depends on what you are going for. It's going in to the blown track car for my uncle. He can upgrade to a high end exhaust on down the road if he wants, but for now, it just needs some cheap growl that better fits the look of the car. This thing isn't going to win any concourse awards, but running up and down the road it will look and sound amazing! It also has a 64k mile engine that Blue Chip did a proactive top end refresh on and a set of JIC Cross coilovers. I also have a set of Koni's on the shelf in case the JIC's are too much for him but the ride seems to fit the car. Full build cost to him was $20k.
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Oh ya, and I also brought home the engine for this other guy. If I had it in by the end of the weekend my wife would be soooo happy! This one will go for $17k base cost plus any customizations that someone wants. And yes, my wife is on my rear to start selling as aggressively as I was buying for awhile. Lol.
Attachment 1293012
The wife and I went with a group from PCA on a great drive today. We are running out of good days in northeast Ohio and got lucky with a good one today. We spent some time on route 78 on our way to the Stockport Mill.
www.stockportmill.com
.
This is a pretty cool mill from 1904 that has been converted to a restaurant and hotel. The heavy timber structure sits on the Muskingum river and still has much of the old mill equipment. They currently use hydro electric generators to create their own power.
We had 15 cars for the drive down.
After a great lunch of Amish cooked comfort food, several of us went home via a portion of the Triple Nickel, State Route 555. Similar to the Tail of the Dragon and Blue Ridge Parkway, this is one of the best roads in the country. Unlike those, however, 555 has very little traffic and almost no police. The group on this section was all DE instructors, so you can image the pace was safe, but very spirited.
I hope everyone else had as good of a day as we did.
"After a great lunch of Amish cooked comfort food, several of us went home via a portion of the Triple Nickel, State Route 555. Similar to the Tail of the Dragon and Blue Ridge Parkway, this is one of the best roads in the country. Unlike those, however, 555 has very little traffic and almost no police. The group on this section was all DE instructors, so you can image the pace was safe, but very spirited.
I hope everyone else had as good of a day as we did."
Yes, indeed, great roads in that area. 555 is great as are the connector roads into West Virginia. Shocking how the locals are accustomed to people ripping through there!
I pulled the window regulators on the rear and front drivers side on the 02 Cabriolet, the rear was a total PIA, boxed and ready to ship to PHX AR to be rebuilt.
Those are speaker level outputs (labeled with polarity). You can't feed an amp with them (unless you use some sort of resistor circuit to drop them back to line level)...
New front trunk shocks (why are they called that? seems like more of a lifter but what do I know)
one side leaky, the other side on it's way to leaky...snapped right out
Yay...it stays up all by itself! no more hitting me in the head
LOL ^^ ohhh so been there done that. After being whammed in the head a number of times (that lid is heavy and hard), definitely was time to replace the gas struts. I don't remember what they cost and to me I did not care. I almost felt like car was trying to kill me a couple of times. Did the engine lid strut as well. I used to have to prop it open, now all good.
Viewed it's for sale ad today in the Canadian Classifieds that I placed yesterday.
Being the seasons end up around these parts and it's isolated local I'm not expecting much interest.
Really we're stewards priviledged to spend time with these fine teutonic machines.
Merely eight hundred miles driven this year I'm not up to snuff.
Topped the oil up today after it's fall change for the winters rest.
Come spring a rejuvenation perhaps.
Hi Dranon, Here's what I ordered - Yes, full on Porsche tax applied to this one but still below $100 From Pelican
Hood Shock (Left or Right)
Brand: Genuine Porsche (1999 Porsche 911 Carrera 4 Coupe)
Part #: 996-511-551-01-OEM
$48.75 each
I tend to do OE replacements because they worked for almost 16 years. Don't be fooled by the price shown...they list out at $53 if you click on the P/N link
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=803-00
Drove 1100 miles to Socorro NM, then Albuquerque for the hot air balloon festival and then back home. Averaged 24.2 mpg per miles and gas purchased and 24.8 mpg shown on the trip computer. So either way the mileage was impressive since the car has an FSI Stage II engine. And I was the lead car of 25 Porsches on the drive so I felt it was my obligation to set a "Porsche-reasonable" speed through the mountains.
Finally got to Mid-Ohio this past weekend for an HPDE. Great event hosted by the Ohio Valley Region PCA. Met many rennlist members there, sorry forgot all the names. Great track, great event, looking forward to next year! Oh, also great to see many 996s on the track.
New M/L Sport Cup 2 after about 4 sessions.
Pic of Madness
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I didn't do it today, but last weekend I fixed my non-operational reverse lights. In case anyone has similar issues, neither of my reverse lights came on. In addition, the mirror stopped moving down when I put it into reverse. The fix was replacement of a switch mounted on the top of the transmission on the passenger side. The part is generic, here's the one I used:
Amazon
Amazon
I think I looked up a DIY, but the procedure is: 1) get the car in the air 2) Locate the switch on the passenger side of the transmission, above the linkages 3) Pry the clip up and unplug from the switch 4) Unscrew the switch with a 19MM open wrench (removing the forward belly pan may make this easier, but I didn't do it. 5) Install is reverse.
Simple fix! But, its the little things.
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Thanks! It’s the RS Steering wheel at Carnewal for 993 and 996. I have gray interior so I also bought a black steering column cover to blend in better.
Fitted:
Koni sports shocks and H&R -30mm springs
Cup steering wheel
Both have made a huge difference to how the car feels to drive
On order:
H&R adjustable rear ARB (already have a M030 front bar ready to fit)
Silver bonnet badge
Rear wiper delete kit
Big oval exhaust tips
BMC air filter
2 x Alpine speaker upgrade kit for front and rear
Small stick on front plate
Also looking in to 200 cell cats options... I heard a car with them on yesterday and it sounded AMAZING!
I've also removed the Carrera badge from the engine cover... Inspired by a friends car, which looked super clean with no rear badge and the rear wiper delete.
What did I do to my 996 today?
I let my wife take it while I used her minivan.
I got it back in good shape though...and she filled it up for me!
That was the first time I'd seen someone else drive my car from the outside.
She shifts too d@#^ soon!
Fabspeed exhaust rocks!!!
Her impressions:
It makes her left knee hurt.
It's "hard to figure out which gear to be in."
She did tell me she thinks she "burned out my clutch."
"I could smell something."
It was the second time for her to drive a manual in almost two decades.
"It's hard to get in and out of."
The gas filler is "cool." (automatically unlocks with door and you don't have to pop it)
Maybe next year she will try driving it again.
Saturday fix the fault codes O491 and O492, found leak from changeover valve one to the vacuum reservoir, also took the ignition cover and horseshoe around the center stack and sanded and repaint both with HT445 carbon grey to match. all looks great.
woke up early, threw our boards in the trunk, hit up the coffee shop and were the first at the skatepark today.
after that we visited my bro and his fam. he just got a new wrx(manual). it blew his mind that I bought a tip!
then we drove to a few landmarks in/outside of Portland.
^^ Ha! ^^ Nope, in case you didn't notice - there are tapes in there (see the red dashes?) and I actually play them once in a while
Why would I need another cubby?
I did notice that tapes were in there. The upper cubby provides an additional 27.3 hp, obviously. Btw- when I got my car I thought the CD holder was a CD changer. I couldn't understand why a CD kept playing even after I removed all of them.
^^Too funny ^^ Did you finally figure out that the CD changer was in the frunk?(after figuring out how to open it of course!)...
Oh, and BTW - the shift **** only added 15whp...
I don't even have a CD changer. At some point I pressed the button on the CDR-220, causing the face plate to open and eject the CD that was in there from the previous owner. I don't know if it was an "Ah Ha!" or "DOH!" moment. It got me again about 6 years later when I thought I was using my bluetooth adapter to play music but it would only play The Doors even when I selected something else. Lo and behold, the radio was in CD mode and I had forgotten I had put that disc in there. Live and learn. Forget. Rinse, repeat. Old age is exciting.
I picked it up from the custom wheel shop after the wheels were powder coated and sealed. The look like they did when the car was brand new. Lovely. Now I just need to decide if I want to refinish the center hub caps myself and learn to do that or order them off ebay....
Trying to decipher the electronic gagetry in my new MB ML350 [2013 - new to me] made me appreciate the simplicity of my '99 Carrera. So, I just spent some time sitting in it today - awaiting the next run. The weather is supposed to improve this week. Fingers crossed.
So did they just replace the lifters? Why? Tapping noise? It looks like there was some oil spraying that side of the engine. Did they address that? Do tell more...
The Problem was Cyl #2 misfire, it would only misfire at idle and throw a code, once the engine was accelerated passed 2k the CEL code would go away, but then it would come back once the car stop or was at idle. Yes they went through the entire engine and replaced all the lifters. there was no tapping noise, and the oil spray was the valve cover gasket. Yes they addressed everything that was wrong with the entire engine from top to bottom they also replaced all the vacuum lines since most were dry rotted.
Last night my mechanic (AMCPILOT):
1. checked the codes, nada
2. checked the oil filter, absolutely clean
3. replaced the plugs and coils, used the bigger BERU's
4. checked the exhaust system extensively
5. put it all back together, sounds, runs good, no codes
Drove it to work this morning, ran great. Hads lots more low end power. I left it in D and didn't shift manually, didn't need to, lot's more torque!
Washed, clayed, and waxed. My arms are dead!
Tried some painted crest center caps(cuz my car came with them originally) but I like the black/silver better at the moment.
YES! Think about how important plugs are, and they are not all made with the same quality.
I'm no guru on these engines but I've never seen anything bad about the NGK Iridiums.
If you have any doubt, change the plugs, they're cheap and not that hard to replace.
Same here. I put a shop towels under the engine lid to catch the runoff, sprayed the area with Goo Gone for about 1/2 day, and you could rub the adhesive off with your fingers.
soak some paper towels in mineral spirits, and lay on top of glue for 10-15 minutes. Then carefully wipe,rub glue off. Repeate till it's gone. Soap and water wash after. Cleaner wax and should be good. May have to buff.
Finished installing a glove box dash into a pre-facelift car and added the electrical harness for a (yet to do) cruise control retro-fit. Oh and installed a short-shift kit "while I was in there". Test drive was marvellous and this had little to do with having somewhere to store a sandwich.
Z
This might be a dumb question but after the adhesive was removed was there still enough of the ghosted carrera word to know where to put the new one? Or did you use painter tape to mark the space?
I have most of it off, and looks like no ghosting (car lived its life garaged, I guess.)
I am torn between replacing it and leaving it off, the clean look is starting to grow on me!
Well. I finally rolled the rear fender flanges. Sooooo happy with rollyourfenders.com! Parts and customer service is exceptional. Highly recommend them and their business. Contact
[email removed]
.
First class equipment, easy to use...
Super happy with the results!
No affiliation.
Yes, me too for the front left. Due to a spin at the track, one of my front tires had pulled down the fender lip. So it had to be fixed on the spot. For the rears, I was looking for something that ended up looking more OEM.
Mark-->I travel to Dallas often for business. Please put your sale on hold until I can talk some sense into you. I have a favorite whiskey bar in Addison we need to meet at for the discussion.
Did this the other day to my 99 C4. Added a center radiator kit, re-painted the inner radiator shrouds and made a little grill for the center radiator from some wire mesh.
Randy...ive seen where a few have done this but never really looked into the 'whys' of it. Could you explain the reasoning for doing this...is it for wider tires, cosmetic, to avoid track rash ??
996.1 has quite a big lip on the inside of the rear arch... if you have the lip rolled (ie; folded vertical, so it lies flat against the inside of the rear arch) you can get wider wheels/tyres or lower off sets.
Rolling allows you to run something like a 10x18 et38 or 11X18 et50 rear wheel, on a lowered car... where the tyre would foul the lip without rolling.
Yes, In my case, I am running a 295 rear tire. For track/grip reasons, I would like to be able to run a 305 wide rear tire, or space the 295s out another 5mm. As mentioned the horizontal flange lip on the 996.1 is quite lengthy. The 996.2 are rolled and much better in this area.
Thanks for explaining this! I've read a lot of threads about rolling the fenders but thought they were talking about flaring them out a bit. That always seemed kind of dangerous to me (paint-wise).
Then you're not pushing hard enough!
But in all seriousness, many times a stock sized slick tire will provide superior grip levels to something wider, its all about what you want to do and spend on. I'm in the wide street tire camp.. 315/30 rear
My four spoke wheel is super tired looking and has the dead horn bushings, so I grabbed a 3 spoke off ebay and ordered the mecedes paddles. It is not keeping with my "stock 99" dream, but I had the 3 spoke in my 986S and loved it.
After installing the three spoke, I realized the tip buttons are much larger. The merc paddles should be here soon, but I'm not 100% I'll need them with the newer 3 spoke layout. ANyone else make the tip 4 to 3 spoke switch and notice a meaningful difference in thumb button use?
Looks awesome! Tell me where did you get that center console?
Mine needs a serious replacement. I have been thinking of sanding and painting but I know that is a serious project.
No advantages, just preference. I prefer the look. It may be easier to cruise underhand with the 4 spoke.
Plus, In my case, larger Tiptronic thumb buttons. Also, I didnt have a colored emblem on my four and the three spoke I found did.
You are totally missing the massive weight reduction from losing a spoke!
I had the 4-spoke on my first 996 and the 3-spoke on my second one. I always hated the look of the 4-spoke wheel. I thought it would look a million times better if it had a colored crest just to break up the "sea of beige" in the middle. I also felt like the 4-spoke blocked the gauges -- not that it actually did block them, it just looked really bulky to me. Back then, I didn't even know the 3-spoke was an option. My current 996 has the 3-spoke and I like it much, much better. It looks better and I think it feels better with one less spoke (too long ago for me to remember the details on how each wheel felt). Some prefer the 4-spoke though, so it all comes down to personal preferences.
I have the 3-spoke on mine. Black leather, coloured crest in the middle.
It's very nice. It was one of the reasons I went for the car I did. So much nicer than the four spoke.
Did a few minor jobs today...
Replaced the hood emblem with a pewter version and a new gasket (yes, the hood is stone chipped!)
ljNjYxA.jpg
Replaced the rear and dash speakers with Alpine units - much improved sound quality, a low cost upgrade, and super simple to fit with a kit from JMG.
IvHkZdR.jpg
Installed a rear wiper delete kit - cleans up the rear (I've already done the rear badge delete).
lhrSnAD.jpg
C58cBnd.jpg
Was going to fit the new exhaust tips, but the access is horrible, and it's a bit cold for laying on the drive under the car, so I'll leave them to my Indy when it goes in for the cats.
How expensive is the JMG alpine upgrade? I'd like to replace my front speakers at a min. I've heard the rears dont need to be uograded since they barely work (i dont hear mine well). Anyone have opinions on this?
Same speakers front and rear on mine.
I paid �129 for each set (speakers and fitting kit).
Both sets work, and both sound good. Its the door speakers that just add a bit of bass, but not much else.
Installed my rear wiper today and realized Auto Atlanta didnt fulfill my entire order. They left out the Rubber grommet (996-628-273-01)
Atlanta, Pelican and Sonnen are out of stock.
Anyone have one they'd be interested in selling?
Took my c2 1999 cab to the track for the first time in months. Only did 20 granny laps, had a great time! Was wet and i dont want to crash my nice 996, has a nissan race car for that (but its always broken)..
After a couple of bonks on the head, I ordered a set of replacement hood shocks from Warehouse 33. I found that an old adjustable camera monopod that I had made a fantastic adjustable hood prop. The project took a lot longer for me because those @*&# clips had been on there since 1999 and I had to use a metal scribe tool with a mallet to loosen them. After that, pop-pop and they were on. Great price and service from Warehouse 33....again.
I found the video below super helpful for replacing the hood struts. Heidi and Franny's videos -- all of them -- consistently set the gold standard for "how to" videos in my opinion. All of them are great. They cover every detail while still being as concise as possible:
You Tube
Nov 3 Upstate NY
Sorry too busy enjoying the drive to stop and take mountain pics with colorful leaves and stuff!
51 degrees beautiful fall day. Maybe one of the last with the too down... Have our local Porsche club dinner tonight!
You have the same whacky 2002 transition year thing I do on my 2002: early (996.1) aero side skirts! They don�t quite match the lines of the car like the later skirts do. The front and rear bumpers on the .2 have angular lines but the early .1 side skirts are much more rounded. Nice to see my car isn�t the only one.
Yea, I looked at it back in September. The guy wouldn't budge on price. He ended up trading it in to a dealer in Harrisonburg. I couldn't say no at the price they listed it.
Shiny!
looks like the original discs and pads were still on the car at 75k miles. Replaced front and rear with a Textar kit from Rennpart. Com. $486 for four discs, and pads all around. also bought 3pints of Pentosin dot 4 brake fluid from Pelican along with the wear sensors.
While I was under there, changed the trans oil. Nothing alarming in the old oil aside from some brass flakes. Used Lubri Moly from Pelican. Will see how it goes. The stuff is clear as water!
Curious to find out how you like the discs and pads after a few months. I have the same set up and the pads are dust storms and the discs drip nasty, rusty liquid on the wheels when they get wet. They seem to stop fine.
Leveled headlamps, cleaned boot, checked to see if I need driver motor mount... Sorry for large photos... If anyone has tips on clearing up lenses on the housings, it would be appreciated. I will search as well.
Its from Suncoast.
It mounts on the outside vent housing, not on the louvers. I've been using it all week and other than my thermos being a bit tall and awkward to get in and out of the holder, IT ROCKS!!!
Swapped summer Michelin 4s 19’s for all-season As3+ 18’s, put on some 997 Turbo rear brake ducts. Put Akebono Euros on all four corners to see how I like them. Only tricky part for the ducts was a little front trimming around the caster control arm and on the top back by the brake lines. It took me 30 minutes of test fitting and judicial trimming then copied it for the second...60 minutes of fiddling in total for the ducts. Sorry, dark garage so pics were horrible.
Drove to the Porsche Club weekly breakfast this morning - 13 degrees at 6:30 AM
After the car sat out for a while, I heard some suspension noises - like creaking bushings - from the right front that were not there when the temp is above freezing.
Jacked her up to change a leaking header gasket and saw wires sticking out of my tire...Rush down to get my new Sumi's mounted and back to the header an hour later. The cheap headers flange has warped and I had to pull a manifold (temp fix) off of my other motor...Snowball effect today as the last bolt farthest back took me about an hour to get back in! 45 min job that took 3 hours...Then there's the guy that in the van that power soaked me on purpose while I was riding a back to go get my truck! Lol.
I passed my vehicle inspection.
Now I can register it for another year.
The guy who inspected it, and pulled it into and out of the bay, had to do a few short revs afterward to hear how it sounded.
It sounded nice echoing through the shop.(Fabspeed rocks!)
Luckily he only got to drive it about 20 feet.
...and no, I didn�t complain.
I completely understand.
The oil was up to temperature and he didn�t rev it to redline.
He probably only hit 4K.
These unusually dry, November days are having me get up earlier to walk the dog and plot a drive. When I offered to make a donut run this morning, I had the green light. Took the long way. Shown is my 1 month old(to me) 99 with originally optioned colored crest caps and rear wiper. A fellow Rennlister graciously hooked me up with the amber turn signals, which I happily replaced along with non led bulbs for them. Period correct is my goal so the PSS9's fit right in, to me.
Thanks for being here Rennlist!
Happy motoring, Tommy
Cleaned, vacuumed, oil change (11qts), new RS683 brake fluid. Self-tech found that a wheel stud had loosened up - so I got that taken care of.
All else seems well with the car and ready for my 3-day weekend at Sebring (instructors weekend Friday Saturday and instructing a repeat student Sunday).
Some other cool stuff going on down there - but I can�t discuss yet. 🙂
Installed Schnell SS as well as replaced the crummy stock shift linkage with billet EVOMS, 997 master cylinder next to complete the eternal shift issues.
.
A little strange to get used to at first, feels a bit notchy but action still smooth gear to gear. Also seems like reverse isn't as open to get into, but after a couple times going in the new position you forget about the nuance.
Overall happy with it, but it's not nearly as short of a throw as I've had from SS's in previous cars.
Over this past weekend I took the high mileage 996 on a hi speed run up in to the mountains. Here's the kicker.. I just installed some Rennline solid mounts last week, and combined with the custom exhaust it was.. visceral. And highly enjoyable
I had the intake and air pump out to install the mounts, and when I put it all back together I have a MAF code.. umm 1123 if memory serves. I carry a KAL OBD2 scanner in the driver door pocket, so I reset it and the car drives fine. Every time it is restarted the CEL comes back on within the first mile or so. I reset it and the car drives great. So I tried to return the MAF to Rock Auto for warranty.. second time. It is an OEM Bosch BTW. They declined warranty, but said instead they will give me a full refund less $3.47 USPS shipping.. so $148 back in my account. So on that note I went the Autozone route..or tried to. My early 99 Cable throttle is not the MAF they have, and the Thanks20/Thanks30 code can't be used on it anyway.
Time was running short, and I had the run to the Tail of the Dragon looming so I decided to F it and go for it.. start car, reset CEL.. run the **** out of it.. repeat. So that is what I did all weekend. The car was brilliant. Friday night we ran from Myrtle Beach to Greeneville. SC (about 240 miles) I was chasing a 2018 WRX Sti with a radar detector and we made..umm..good time. He had to stop and fill up.. the 996 held strong and I had over a 1/4 tank when we arrived. I was amazed.
Saturday morning I topped off and we headed up to the mts. Ended up running the Tail of the Dragon, Fontana Dam, and all the surrounding roads. In one hour I was in TN, GA, and NC and back again. Came back down to Greeneville thru Bryson City, TN and Asheville, NC..350 miles round trip.. I had added about 3.5 gal after coming down from the mts that is it. We tried to run the Blue Ridge Parkway but it was gated off due to ice. I topped off Saturday night in Greeneville then we went to dinner and back to the house to bed. We rolled home Sunday morning, got home at around 2pm and I drove to work at 6pm Sunday night. Drove home from work in the morning.. still no low fuel light.. drove to work tonight, and as I'm pulling into the hospital, the low fuel light pops on. 296.5 miles to this tank.
Here is the point to this story
1. supposedly bad MAF.. clearing CEL every time I get in the car
2. she turned over 183k as I rolled back into town on Sunday afternoon.. original unmolested engine
3. I NEVER drive easy... and the return trip from the upstate was consistently 90+ mph whenever it was clear. (i need a detector too)
4. this is the highest MPG I have ever gotten so far in this car since buying it in February..many road trips at lower speeds.
5. I love my 996
I'll throw a separate post up with the pics.. it was amazing.. and the 996 was perfectly at home on the mt roads...and I thought my G35 was great last year on the same trip.
I got approximately the same OR BETTER mileage running the mountains and twisties around them than I get on my commute.
YMMV
such a beautiful drive
Tail of the Dragon at Killboys
Fontana Dam, Robbinsville, GA. Largest east of the Mississippi.
second annual memorial run for my friend's Dad. He was a big car buff and avid Mini's at the Dragon participant.
The squad. That red mini is my buddy's step mom..she led and she tears it up. white mini is out of NC and all are tuned JCW cars. The Blue STi is a 2018 and the 20 yr old 996 stayed right on em.
Awesome post! Re your CEL, do you have an aftermarket intake? I ask because I had the 1123 code last year. New MAF didn�t cure it but putting the stock airbox back on did.
Interesting. I do have a K&N intake...was running for months with no CEL. Took it out to install mounts, built a heatshielded box for it and fired back up to a CEL.
Also... this was pulling into work tonight
I always drive TC OFF hehehe...
Put the stock box back on and see if it goes away. My Fabspeed intake didn�t have the return elbow. It was causing turbulence around the MAF and confusing it to the point that I�d get CELs. As soon as I went back to the stock intake the issue was solved.
GREAT POST! With all the horror stories we hear about the engines being fragile, and people are afraid to drive these cars its nice to see someone post about a great running high milage car that they actually use. Looks like an awesome time.
Nice mod there Billup. Any chance you have a Durametric? The reason I ask is because I've read that many people experience an increase in over-revs with short shift kits. If so, drive the car for a month and so, then report back if any range 2 over-revs were recorded. Thank you.
Decided to sell it!
Goes off on Friday. Have a 997.2 C2S in beautiful Guards Red and Sand Beige interior incoming as a replacement. I will always have a soft spot for the 996 though, as it taught me 911s really can do the "daily" bit without any hiccups or issues. Never a thing wrong with mine, on original IMS too. Looking forward to the next step in the 911 journey though!
Did an oil chance on the ole 996 today. Very simple to do and it gives you the opportunity to inspect the oil and filter for metal flakes and debris. I was fortunate and didn't find one thing in the filter or oil, clean as a whistle. Crazy that it costs about $130 to do it yourself though, $45 for oil filter and new drain plug gasket from Porsche dealer, and 10 qrts of Mobile one 0-w40 @$42/5qrt container.
There are lots of options for OEM filters that don�t cost that much. Mann is one common brand that makes them for Porsche. Same product, different box, vastly different prices.
Also, the same oil is $10 less per 5 gallons on Amazon, with free shipping.
Yeah I had seen that when doing some research but the local parts store didn't have it. I was passing the Porsche dealer so it just made sense to grab one there. even if the filter is 50% of the cost its still pricey, that damn synthetic oil will get ya. Plus it was a good reason to poke around the showroom.
You got jacked on the filter and the oil! Next time, buy them on Amazon or go to Walmart and save yourself an extra $60. If you want to look on the bright side, you can take solace in the fact that your local Porsche "stealer" would have charged you $400 for the privilege of bringing it to them... but you could have had a nice cup o' joe on them!
Wow!
I usually buy 6 filters and a package of drain plug o-rings at a time.
That way I don�t have to worry about having what I need when it�s time.
I do that for all my vehicles.
Oil is usually bought a month or so before I need it too.
When I sell a vehicle I usually have some spare parts for it too, mainly maintenance items.
AHHH live and learn. Honestly I don't mind what I paid because I ended up with peace of mind that the oil was clean. I will be more frugal next time around.
Yup! I just did the same, ordered Porsche Brand header gaskets for $15.00 ea, then found them for $4.00 after the fact. It pays/saves o shop around...Same damn parts without the P word on the box!
I have the oil filters in Mahle for under $11.00, they don't come in a pretty Porsche box though.
https://www.warehouse33auto.com/MAHLE/67/996-107-225-53
-Jason
great idea. Another good idea when you buy a bunch of filters is to check you still have some in stock before you drain the oil LOL.
ask me how I know.....Had blocked my other car so called my father in law to pick up filters.
I drove my 996 for the third time since purchase 3 weeks ago.
Drive 1: Drive home from dealer.
Drive 2: Drive back to dealer tomprogram second key.
Todays Drive was 40 miles to drop off the 996 for
1. Waterpump
2. AOS
3. RMS
4. Likely clutch
5. IMS Solution
hope this makes my 72 000 km 996 bullet proof!
you can check my other threads, car had a clean Ppi. All of this is totally preventive maintenance.
I paid a premium for the car high 30’s Canadian dollars, tax in 13 %.
Low mileage, low option, no accident car. Decent service history.
2000 km on Pirelli pzeros. Porsche battery, servicing done at Porsche etc. I could have been in 997.1 territory easily. Although I prefer the 997.1 round headlights, I couldn’t stand the interior. The phone and nav are both useless and fugly. Too many shades of gray. Much prefer the look of the 996 plain interior.
Biggest thing for me is the lack of a spare on the 997. Yes I could have just bought a spare tire. This logic befuddles me, So, Imwill be going on a road trip to NYC in the spring. 500 mile trip. On Good Friday, I blow a tire. Where am I going to find a 285,30,18 tire?
Work is being done at an Indy. Car was purchased at one of (maybe largest) Canadian Porsche dealer.
I live in the city of Toronto, there are several well reviewed Porsche independents. Both are about 40 miles away. Both were preferred or certified installers of the IMS solution. For whatever reason, they no longer are. The one I chose was related to logistics. One of my colleagues lives around the corner from them making logistics a lot easier.
With regards to cost, I'm expecting a hefty bill. Best example of what it costs will be on this link:
https://pcaucr.org/ims-anxiety/
Although not a solution install per say, this gives a good idea of 2014 pricing for dropping the transmission etc. IMS solution is over $2G Canadian dollars. I think you get the ballpark of the cost. This was inline with estimates I got during searching for a car.
If your relying on the spare tire to save you may I suggest you add a breaker bar and socket for the wheel bolts, you don't want to be stuck on the side of the 400 on Friday of a long weekend and have the Porsche tool crack in half leaving you stranded for hours waiting for a tow, learned that the hard way.
I think I may even take it another step. Will be buying 4 new lug bolts to get rid of the wheel locks. I broke one once and if someone is going to steal my rims, I hope they take the whole car.
Here's what I'm going to put in the tool kit:
https://www.amazon.ca/Senzeal-Extendable-Wrench-Wrenches-Telescoping/dp/B07D9KC6PY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542297205&sr=8-5&keywords=21mm+lug+wrench
https://www.amazon.ca/Senzeal-Extendable-Wrench-Wrenches-Telescoping/dp/B07D9KC6PY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542297205&sr=8-5&keywords=21mm+lug+wrench
OH, and it won't be Friday afternoon on the 400. It will be 35/115. Our place is in the Kawartha's.
This seems like a good idea. It used to be a thing, but I don't think people even steal wheels anymore. It seems like they either take the whole car, or nothing (or the airbag I guess).
Congrats. What's the lead time these days? What displacement are you going for? This needs it's own thread!
I'm thinking a FSI 4.0 would really wake my 2002 up (edit, looks like the 3.6 can only be taken to 3.8
). The cost of this as a preventative job seems like a great alternative to buying a newer car with a big engine. I love everything else about the car.
I'll get the car back mid-April, and it'll be 3.8L (per Jake). The extra power will be nice, but I'm really shooting for the longevity and the ability to occasionally AX/DE with confidence. The upshot of the car being away for awhile is that I'll have room in the garage this winter as I have some non-mechanical stuff to do. A re-finish on a center console in Ocean Blue Metallic (body color) and also paint some MK I duraflex side-skirts that I picked up over the summer and haven't had a chance to do yet.
That's great! I hope everything works out well for you
Overall my confidence level is fairly high, but I can't help being a little anxious! Be sure to check in when you get it back!
Took her thru the car wash today, yep one of those fancy ones where you sit in your car and it moves thru with all the rotating brushes and monster towels, much quicker and easier than the hand wash she gets during the above freezing months. First snow of the year left her looking kinda messy for the past week so she needed a bath...
Consider yourself ticketed by the Porsche police!
Really though, you will have TONS of swirls because of this. I guess you have the money to get it detailed and the swirls removed...
Today I replaced my oil sending unit. Ordered it 'just in case' a while back, so I decided to just put it in. Takes only a 10 minutes with the correct 19mm crows foot wrench.
Great start to the list, I did the same process about 2 years ago. Be prepared (or just do) the following:
*Flywheel
*Just consider exhaust modifications at this time also: Headers, etc. This is a great time. In my case, 6 of the bolts broke into the block and had to be drilled/tapped. Pricey, but it was done and came back sounding great and speedy.
Um OK aren't you worried about swirls and/or even worse the wheels getting scratched curb rash from the device that rolls the car through? I do not like washing my car either but I take it to the touchless car wash where the car stays still and the washing machinery rotates around the car never touching it
Flywheel has been added to the list. I am gong to leave the rusted crappy bolts for another time. Frustrating that those bolts rusted to such an extent.
I have to agree with the above statements. My main concern is the wheel brushes lurking at the end of the line. Most people don't see them. Many of them are carbide tipped to make sure muddy wheels get cleaned.
Sounds good, keep up the good attitude. Expect several phone calls during the process and budget for potentially +20% for other items (ex: my valve covers were leaking, etc.).
Finally got a new remote key from Suncoast and had it programmed at the dealer. $154 for the key with electronics, and $175 to program. Seems par for the course for a key replacement (is what I keep telling myself). I also installed an aux input on my PCM1 after getting very annoyed the cassette Bluetooth setup.
Swapped to my winter wheels... Also going to re-align the car and removed camber from the front. I've put 24K miles on the car in 8 months!
Winter wheels
Summer Wheels
REplaced the horn plate and put the fuse B3 back in, finally, and changed out the air filters. While doing that, the oil filler tube broke neatly in half. Damn..
So it�s back to the shop on Monday.
Almost done with interior refresh. Seat covers on their way. Repainted all interior plastics an OEM gray and changed the shift **** to a 997 one from IXI Gears. Looks fantastic. Had to shave the shifter ever so slightly to fit it perfectly, but it is nice and tight now. Can't wait to drive the car...
IXI Gears shift know $79 shipped!
my car had the upgraded shift **** / boot combo that aren�t attached. It was extremely difficult to remove it because the screw was stuck and i had to drill it out. The new **** is a bit shorter so the boot fit perfectly. I need to dye the leather but was anxious to see how it came out. Very happy with it.
I bought mine off an Ebay seller. Josephina Auto Covers in North Hollywood, CA. They are custom made by them. As soon as they are installed I promise to post a picture. They weren�t cheap so crossing my fingers they are nice. Saw pictures and they look good.
I�m not the OP, but I did the same thing for my rennline shift ****. I took a razor knife and cut around the circumference of the stock **** to separate it from the rest of the boot/frame assembly, then I installed it on my replacement ****. The first time I used a zip tie to attach the boot to the rennline ****, but didn�t like the bulk (in particular, where the bump is on the end of the zip tie), so I swapped it out for a loop of safety wire. I tried aftermarket shift boots, but never found one that I loved. My biggest gripe was the thickness of the leather on the replacements. The stock boot is very thin leather, so it gathers better at the junction with the ****.
Took advantage of some holiday down-time to install the driver side CG Lock. I ended up using the middle-length screws to get a proper fit. Using my Snap-On ratcheting screwdriver with a small torx bit made things a lot easier - for me anyway - than using the little angle wrench included in the kit.
I'll do the passenger side before next season's DE events.
Well the 996.1 was feeling neglected, so I spent some special time with her today...
1) Proper Wash (first time since the end of track season :/)
2) Picked up lunch for the family
3) Some late Black Friday shopping
4) Added Stabil, covered and into the garage
Picked up my 996 and drove it for the fourth time since purchase 4 weeks ago. Picked it up at an Indy 40 miles away.
Hefty, hefty bill: water pump, thermostat, AOS, Flywheel, Clutch, and yes, the IMS Solution.
Tomorrow will go through the touchless car wash, come home, up on the lift and see you in April.
Back in May I did AOS, RMS, Flywheel, Clutch and bearing, and IMS Solution. Worked with Indy to buy my own parts at a discount. Next up are water pump, thermostat and a leaky sensor. Ok, not cheap but a good investment for a great car you can enjoy for years to come.
My daily driver. Basically I would rather drive it than a Honda. Does anyone else use theirs like that? Most of the post I have read in 996 forum is either overly IMS serviced concerned or stored under cover till winter is over. I am sure my sample size of review is too small. I am on Pelican as well and it is a smaller group, so less daily communication I think?
here is a pic of my Honda:
My 02 C4S RWD is a daily driver, but the summer tires on it is limiting its use during the winter. I am considering putting Michelin Pilot AS3 all season since I have a dedicated track wheel/tire set up so I can at least drive it all year around. AS3 comes in 285/35-18 for the rear, and while it is slightly narrower than the stock set up, it should work fine for daily duty. I do need to wire the Recaro Sportster so that heating function will work, so it will be a bit more comfortable in cold weather but mine is NOT a garage queen!
John
97 M3 (retired from track)
02 C4S RWD (DD and track car)
10 GT3 (Garage queen and ocasional track car)
Well, I bought a few too many items of literature for my 996s. I have seen his name before on RL, but thought I would give him another plug : Ebay dphiloxon.
Yesterday was sunny and 60 degrees F. I got in a good drive and topped off with no-ethanol premium with a bottle of Driven Defenter + Booster in case the weather turned. It did. Blizzard warning today and already it's raining - to ensure a good layer of frekking ICE before the real snow starts. Before the rain started, the city came by and salted the streets....which will just make it worse....so the 911 will be staying in my over-crowded garage for a while. While the 996's make good daily drivers, they way they salt the streets here precludes winter activities. We wait for the spring rains to wash all the *#$&@! salt away,
They are Dansk switchable , basically same as factory PSE exhaust, there is a vacuum controlled flap in the bypass pipe, flap closed normal exhaust , flap open sports exhaust, activated by a fob on your key ring, not done that part yet so flaps open all the time at the moment so all sports yeeeehaaaa!!!
Knocking out dash lights. Modded the rear wiring harness to eliminate the spoiler warning (fixed wing) and troubleshot and fixed passenger airbag issue.
I've always been curious about this on these cars. I've read where people install wings on their Porsche and then get an MIL. I'm very interested in installing a fixed wing on my car someday. What exactly is the procedure? Thank you for your time.
Mine is a daily driver too.
But we don't have cold winters down here.
Normally the lowest it gets is upper 40s to lower 50s.
Occasionally it gets into the 30s.
I drive on summer tires (Michelin Pilot Sport 4S) year around.
It just isn't worth swapping out to all-season tires for 4 or 5 days a year.
When it gets down below mid-40s I try to stay home when possible
I went from the retractable version to fixed and just used the correct factory harness. It's plug and play and it eliminates any MILs. I used part #996-612-070-04 and it was $110.44 in September of 2017 from Sunset. This harness is for fixed wings with a brake a brake light. IIRC, there is a different part number for fixed wings without a third brake light.
I used this when I added my Aerokit spoiler to my car:
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/9X6TEQBLH.html
It cost me $330 in July 2018.
It was also plug & play.
Polished headlamp lenses. Never perfect, but based on the age of them I decided I would use the old Meguiars shat I used on my Audi's and Volvo's. It improved... Also added some oil as consumption took place, plugged a slow leak in driver rear. Damn nail. Washed car, waxed car, drove car.
I daily mine, rain or shine. Picked it up with a bit over 36k miles at the end of August and currently have 39.5. She's going in for her first service under my ownership when I get back from vacation after New Year's (oil change, water pump, thermostat, coolant tank) and also putting in a double din and rewrapped steering wheel to freshen up the interior/infotainment. I love every minute with this car. I still smile every time I start it up.
This is the right way to do it if you ever think you will go back to stock. Otherwise you'll be buying a salvage harness and reterminating. It will work but won't be as clean.
I finally finished my uncles car only 11 months after starting it. It's the 99 C2 with a GT2 body kit I bought with a blown engine. Blue Chip got the tranny, LSD, and suspension off of it and it got blue Chip's motor. Upon delivery I will be bringing back my '07 Cayman which will need an oil change. So off to Walmart for a couple more 5 quart jugs of M1 5W-50 which works very well for street or track duty. Just be sure to run your UOA's if you are tracking and change after 700 miles or 5-7 hours of track time depending on conditions.
I wanted to have the choice of going back, so I bought the harness and all the hardware that attaches to the rear deck lid.
I boxed up my old rear deck lid complete and stored it in my attic.
That's exactly what I did. If I want to swap back, it's just four bolts and a plug. Mine old one is wrapped in moving blankets in the guest room closet.
Picked the car up Tuesday afternoon with the Rennline engine mounts (yellow/street bushes) and H&R/M030 ARBs fitted (rear H&R bar is set to its middle setting).
Only driven it back from my Indy and to work and back a couple of times, but initial impressions are mixed.
ARB�s feel really good � car feels more pointy on the lowish speed roundabouts on my route, so all good there� looking forward to seeing how they feel at higher speed.
Engine mounts will be coming off. I would have been comfortable with (and was expecting) a bit more NVH, and I can live with at tick over. But there�s a consistent vibration through the rev range that feels and sounds horrible� almost like the exhaust is blowing. Shame, as I know other owners have them fitted and are very happy with them� must be something specific with my car.
I other news, I picked up a GT3 gearknob and gaiter in alcantara to replace my worn original and match the Cup wheel.
We installed a set for someone a couple of months ago.
He wanted the sport bushings installed, which I predicted was going to be too harsh.
He brought his 996 back to me about a week later and we installed the race bushings.
He said the sport bushings improved his tiptronic's shifting and he wanted to try the race bushings.
I asked him what he thought last week when he came by due to a broken sepentine belt.
He said he was very happy with them.
I've been considering them myself, especially since they're tunable.
Sorry, not 996 related so much, but went to the LA Auto Show yesterday. Wow, the LA show is so much better than Detroit! There was a complete Porsche Area and they were encouraging people to get into the 992 and GT2 RS Clubsport! If you live near there, it is a must attend.
Could get in!
1963 was a great year for 2 reasons!
Business end of the 992.
In a different area for specialty cars.
Great pics! I fixed a P2101 in the advanced auto parking lot on the way home from Dallas. Went into limp mode twice on me going 80. Cleaned the throttle body and didn't have anymore issues.
And yes the engine is on the wrong side of the axle.
photo530.jpg
I scraped the underside of my front bumper on a curb. Totally my fault. I didn't look carefully enough. I am so farking annoyed I cannot tell you. It pains me. It really does.
Sigh - I guess it's just a car. But you know....
Has anyone ever had a bumper touched up by a body shop? How'd it go?
I do a good bit of detailing but not professional...though I do think I can get a car looking better than new IMO. I
have
gotten quotes from body shops for the exact same kind of scuffs. Without seeing it close up, my first opinion is that you can probably get most of that looking OK without doing a repaint. FWIW, most good body shops don't just do "touch up" and will do the entire bumper - probably in the > $1000 range for a pretty good.
If you want to try it yourself, first wash it to get it as clean as possible. Use dish soap, not just car wash, to remove any waxes or contaminants. If you have a clay bar, use that (google if you don't know how). Rub the area with some isopropyl alcohol to really get the gunk off.
After you think it's really clean, wet sand with something like 3000 sandpaper to get the scuffs out as much as you can (maybe even lower grit like 1000 or lower for the bottom part that looks
really
scratched). Should take maybe just a minute or two. If you can get it looking like flat paint, that would be perfect. Don't use a lot of pressure to push into the paint; just get it looking uniform, like flat paint. Then use 5000 grit - also wet sanding - to polish it out some with a similar time (it should still look like flat paint, not shiny). If you haven't use it, this isn't really "sandpaper" as most people know it - it almost just feels like a piece of foam. It's just to even out the clearcoat, not grind it down to paint.
When you can't really see the scratches anymore and it just looks like flat/mat paint, use a compound liquid - with a dual action polisher if you have it but hand is fine if you don't. At this point it will start looking more "shiny" but not super reflective. After that use a polish liquid...again, DA polisher if you have it. Now it should be looking really good and. Apply your usual wax or other protectant.
That should get you looking pretty good without spending a fortune on a repaint.
There are plenty of good youtube videos on fixing paint scratches and bumper scuffs. IMO, I would google and watch a few, then try it yourself before taking it for a bumper repaint. This is a doable DIY project. I just did mine last week where it looked like someone had keyed the back hip and, using a similar method, now you can't tell it was there.
Changed the oil and filter. Cut filter open. A little small sparkle. No major debris or larger concerns. Will do again in 4K miles. 52k now, again at 56 and again at 60.
Reading my 996 The Essential Companion and very intrigued by my car. 2/98 Production with an X 1999 VIN number. Almost unheard of?!? Lots to read and research. May write/call into Porsche for BC and try to find the story. Title says 1999, VIN says 1999
but production date says 1998. At least a Dual
row IMS. I see headers (?) and possible aftermarket exhaust. It has an intake upgrade and all clear lenses, so it received some love in the past. I have a few more items to do. But will drive it tomorrow, as it is my current daily.
And the 355 came home with new clutch :-)
All 1998 built 996s are 1999 models.
Earlier in 1998 the better.
2/98 would be very desirable.
Want to sell it?
All 996s came with headers from the factory.
The 996 book was not clear on the production numbers or the Bourbon made it fuzzy. Having looked at other 996 exhaust in later years, mine looked different than I recalled. Smaller mufflers and bigger exhaust tips, so I thought it had been changed.
Probably not selling anytime soon 😎
I don�t see those lights on the option code sticker - 601. It does have Litronic installed, but not sure they came with the car? No window sticker, but the only options are basically, the seats and sound system stuff.
Oh and reading The Essential Companion, looks like 1997 was 14 cars. The ROW was 1998 and Cabs only in USA and then the 1999.....but they sat on the inventory? Made the cars in 1998 and rolled them out as 1999�s in USA, because they had 993�s with 1998 VINs and were building the cars on the same assembly line. The book is fascinating. Been reading a little each night and flipping back and fourth to the charts and codes.
Note: is mine the 610th one made or 20,610th one, as they made 28,067 of all body styles and drive types?
Becker America in Saddlebrook NJ did a great job in installing Bluetooth in my existing unit. Shipped it to them and within 2 weeks had it back and now I can listen to Spotify and other streaming audio and video simply by using the Aux mode. No cables or wires, just great quality audio. Costs $125, which I think was a pretty fair price for the work.
Had horrible experiences with the OEM vent-mounted product and saw plenty of other designs that were either expensive, interfered with dash functions, or both. Finally found this one, and was blown away but not only the functionality but also the quality. Price is $25.
https://www.ultimatecupholders.com/
You may have heard we are expecting a major snowstorm in NC starting tomorrow. So, I decided to take the Porsche out for a drive, since I likely won�t be using it for at least a week. Bad mistake. Just as I created a hill, 3 deer decided to run across the road. Two missed me, but the third ran directly into the passenger side front fender, then spun around and tagged the door. Fortunately, the damage isn�t too bad, but I think some paint will be required,and I�m worried it won�t match closely. Now I�m looking the recommendations for body shops in the area.
Note the fur stuck in the door handle.
I own a collision center in Dallas. You are going to be painting the whole side. More than likely replacing the door - unless you want a lot of metal work and some material in all the panels. These cars are very hard to PDR and glue-pull technology can pull the paint off. I know one guy that can possibly PDR that, but I am sure it will require painting. To do it 100% right by the �book� for whatever that is worth. Detrim the whole car. Pull front and rear covers, all lamps, fender (repair), door (replace), R/I or replace qtr glass. I would have to pull the OEM procedures. Porsche requires most fasteners be replaced. I fix a lot of smaller Porsche repairs and could easily do this one. But Porsche restricts a lot of parts and require factory certs for structural components - tubs, weld/riveted parts, etc. Stuart�s in Dallas Burbs is the go to guy for that. We usually sublet structural operations to him - he has the Celet (sp) Bench and �jigs.� So sorry it happened to you. I hate painting cars. We are really good at it. Just completed a minor repair to a Maserati Gran Turismo ans it was $2500. My first guess is $4500-$5800 for you and that is no door or door replace. My guessing is usually pretty solid. But I could be way off. Have to use my software, pull the OE procedures and itemize. Best of luck to you.
Not today but on Saturday - a cold long day under the car.
tranny mount - it's time consuming but easy with that special AGA tool. The mount was not in terrible shape but worth replacing
motor mounts - super easy - Those old mounts were shot. The motor is at least an inch to and inch and a half higher.
serpentine belt - I was certain I would remember how to put it back on - WRONG - I was stumped and to go back and look at the photo.
oil and filter - super easy
air filter
I've got a factory short shifter and since I got the car a couple of weeks ago, I've felt like the shifter was notchy and a bit vague. As others suggested here, new motor and tranny mounts would help and they did. Before the when the stick was in neutral, it would tend to rest slightly to the left of center. Now it sits directly between third and fourth gear. I also think the mounts helped with the feel of the car. Before I changed the mounts, when I got to 75 or 80, the back end seemed just a bit noisy, almost like there was a slight vibration. Now, it's just smooth.
Here's a photo of the old and new mounts. I went with the OEM mounts.
That's a bummer! I had that exact damage to the front right "wing" on my car (a small tree fell out of the woods - couldn't see it at dusk). Good thing it missed the light! My repair was around $2k for new wing (genuine Porsche) with paint... I would imagine the door will be at least that much again - much more labor. I think the $4500 - $5800 is a close estimate... Good luck
What about sourcing used parts , the wings are bolt on , no welding required, just get a paint shop to paint them for you, I'm in uk but know a guy local to me who just breaks Porsche cars and ships worldwide , he will have what you need, PM me if you want his details ok
Femder is repairable. The door is the challenge. Yes, you can buy used parts, but they usually need clean up and �just painting� is not that simple. Plus a used door has a lot of parts we do not need and will require disassembly on top of the already damaged door, so more labor. A new door comes ready to paint in e-coat, so less prep work. The challenge here is silver color. If it was a black car, much easier, but silver requires �blending of adjacent panels.� Was just discussing this in Ferrari Chat and a silver front bumper of a 360. The only good thing about black is easier painting with regards to match. Always looks great, but care, dirt and heat in TX, makes me swear off black cars 😁.
Thanks for the suggestions. My insurance co. (Grundy) is sending someone out to inspect the car and estimate cost to repair. Given the difficulty in matching Arctic Silver Metallic, I wonder if I can convince him to authorize repainting the entire car. They seem easy to work with to this point and allow me to select the repair shop.
If it's an insurance job, source only genuine Porsche parts - don't let them use Chinese parts to save $ - it'll cost you in the long run (and probably won't look "right")... Good luck
Grundy can be pretty generous. I alway advise painting as little as possible. Personally I would demand a complete paint for color match and then keep that money and negotiate with the shop doing the work. You are taking the money as a loss in �value� as a repaired and painted Porsche is worth less than one that is original. Some states allow diminished value and you could argue that after repairs, but I like the cash up front. Complete paint of a 911 properly is $8500ish.
There are no Chinese structural/sheet metal components in the estimating software. They may exist, but not when writing estimates. There will be in lighting/reflectors and some plastic bits, but Grundy will write all OEM. All the best. You can PM me and I can Audit the estimate just to see how it looks in about 15min with an email copy. All the best!
yes its a pressure fit! Easier to grab cup and all on the passenger side. Fits UNDER the center console make sure you aren't trying to just slip it under the leather
Replaced the alternator (rebuilt Bosch), new "y" cable, and fixed an air leak that was causing a check engine code for "too lean". Of course all this didn't happen here, but two hours away in Phoenix where the alternator bit the dust and caused the battery to drain flat. So one rental car and two round trips (5 hrs each time) later and I drove the 996 home today. Fortunately my car failed when I stopped by Evolution Motorsports so they were able to do the work there. A long week....But I did get to see some sweet tuned Porsche and other exotics while hanging around.
Installed a new exhaust...really can tell the difference! Back pressure reduced tremendously and great sound with stock mufflers!
FabSpeed X-Pipe ready for installation
I'm not understanding the love that these cup holders are getting. It's not very secure, I think it looks fugly in my car, and it doesn't put the cup in a convenient location. It definitely doesn't look like it belongs. I may have to rig something so that it's in a better place and easily removable. I much prefer my other cup holder from Sound in Motion. The only downside to that one is that it only works for cups, not cans or bottles.
Hey Bill all I can say is you must not have it in there correctly. Mine is very tight and does not move. My cup (on the passenger side) is very accessible and not in the way at all. I use a stainless travel mug and can toss the car around with no spill or movement. I LIKE having it on the floor area also so it does not get in the way of anything. The sound in motion looks like a decent one but that is where my phone holder is so it would get in the way. Still like mine the best
Used my brand new QuickJack to lift it and remove the rear wheels to take them to Wheel Wizard. One was bent and both had curb rash when I bought the 996.
I was impressed by the job done on my son BMW by a " Paintless Dent Removal" specialist. This worse a try as it is inexpensive and they can come to your house/ office.
BMW estimate was $1.2 K while the technician did the job for $300 before I return the end lease car.
Got my new audio equipment professionally installed. It's a kenwood dmx7705s headunit with a pioneer backup cam (still hadnt changed backlighting to orange in this pic). I think they did a really nice job. Ended up with the microphone near the dome lights, as I have heard mixed reviews regarding the steering column. Multimedia USB is in the cubby and a second USB just for charging is in the glovebox. The Metra dash kit isnt 100% perfect but its good enough for the price I think. Pics below!
88obGJO.jpg
r8FlPOD.jpg
7eNGRgd.jpg
i purchased the larger stock Haes enclosures (with No port) and filled them with two wicked cheap Pyle PLG54 subs from Amazon for $9 each. They are 200 watt peak so I figured it would be worth a shot. They were a tiny bit too big so some sealant was needed to fill gap where the enclosure had little depressions. Sounds way better than stock, not pounding like a normal sub setup would be but good enough for sound quality. Plus it didn�t add any weight like a box would. Overall pretty happy with it. The adapters for the front and rear highs are from car audio innovations. Worked very well.
Looks great. I'm working through installing a Kenwood with the Metra mount kit. I've already moved the HVAC down to the bottom. I'm stuck on the amp. I want to keep the replacement amp by the spare tire. I can't find a 5 channel that will fit. May end up with a small 4 channel and another amp for the subwoofer. Not sure yet.
Thanks Greg. It's too long. I did find an amp made for a boat that fits. I'm not an audio nut. Just good sound at moderate levels is fine for me.
https://hifonics.com/powersports/tho...ps/tps-a600-5/
Picked up wheels from Wheel Wizard. Before and after... I hope they don't make my front wheels look bad.. Might have to get them done too. I probably would have lived with the curb rash for a while, but one of the wheels was bent and tire sidewall was damaged (looks like the PO probably hit a pothole)
NEW SHOES!
Glad to be rid of the Sumitomo rears and Continental fronts. Michelin PS2 all around.
For the life of me, I just can't relate to people who buy one of the best performance cars ever built and then cheap out on tires. Arguably, some people may think Continentals are good, so I'll give a pass on those, but Sumitomo?
Well, I finally got 2 sets of parts installed that had been purchased off of rennlist: Function First Yellow Trans Inserts (thanks Nickshu) and GMG racing front thrust arms (thanks Norcal). It was 41F and rainy in Michigan, but both changes felt great (from the limited usage). Will report back...
Hah, I wish! Enjoy it, it is fun to see how fast you really go VS the speedo, as well as if the coolant temp is accurate. My gauge seems to be pretty spot on.
I would like meet him one day. He's been great to do business with and has helped me out a lot along the way.
Specialized ECU Repair flashed an ECU back to stock and replaced both key fobs today. Those guys are good to work with.
Wife bought me Porsche valve stem caps for Christmas! (she's a keeper!) After I washed the car she "forced" me to put them on early!
Lot's of gratuitous pics after the wash today:
New caps:
Notice how the logo, wheel, and valve stem are aligned? (Yes, I'm OCD, all four are like that!)
See those two little holes on the crest cap? Bend a coat hanger so you have a small 90 degree bend on each end, then pop them into the crest and pull. No jack necessary!
Like so:
Cleaned my radiators and front wheel wells while I was at it.
Bit of a story: I broke loose all four wheels because I had planned to put the car on jack stands, take both bumpers off and clean behind them, change the oil, drop the sump plate and inspect the filter, and replace the engine and cabin air filters. But there was other (family holiday) stuff going on, so I didn�t have time to do more than the front of the car. Because of this, I forgot to torque the rear lug bolts. I drove down the road and heard the noise associated with making that mistake and thought, �I�m positive I torqued all ten bolts on those front wheels.� I pulled over and put on my flashers and a guy that�s been a PCA member for 32 years makes a U-turn, pulls up and makes sure I�m okay. My brother met me and reminded me I�d loosened the rear wheels, which I�d forgotten about, and I tightened them with the torque wrench he brought with him.
Anyway, as if I wasn�t already excited about having this car, the fact that there is such a PCA presence here that people will stop and make sure you�re okay if they see a 911 in trouble really puts the cherry on top of a pretty excellent sundae.
My brother and I will be doing the rest of the afformentioned maintenance stuff and correcting and polishing the paint tomorrow. Hopefully we�ll have time to install the H&R springs on Tuesday.
Had to re-read these part over. When you said you "replace the engine", I about fell out of my chair.
I see you're talking about the air filter in the engine.
I too had a PCA member come to my rescue last week. I just moved and the last item to go was my 57 speedster (replica) that I've ignored for the past six months. I lost power on "Dead Mans" curve and had to leave it there over night. Got back in the morning and a stranger comes out to talk to me about my car. To make a long story short, he towed me to my new home an hour before he was to jump on a plane.
Started correcting (way later than planned), but even with two people and two polishers, we ran out of light. Will have to finish tomorrow. But this one side of the car is really shiny!
Dang, glad you are okay. Do you mind sharing what happened? You appear to be from SF, did this happen in Marin?
There are a lot of good roads towards Lucas Valley etc.
Best of luck parting it out. I am interested in a gas cap w/the string and a cigarette lighter.
Thanks Eric! Your car is looking great!
We used Meguiars chemicals and pads for the correction and polish. My brother and I each have a Rupes LHR15, so I did a panel with a red foam pad and 105, then my brother followed me with 205 on a yellow foam pad. We aren�t professional detailers by any stretch, but it came out way better than where it started. I�ll make another thread with some before and after shots soon. I still need to change the oil and install the H&R springs. Hopefully we�ll have time to do that this weekend.
Drove for about 2 hours today to check the performance of the Function First Yellow Transmission Inserts. All I can say is Wow! I love them. The car feels a little more connected in every way (road feel, acceleration, shifting 2->3, etc.). A really nice increase in NVH that more properly fits the intended purpose of the 996. (Although I know I am not supposed to mention other models...It more closely feels similar to a 964 as far as road feel). These really are a very cost effective upgrade. Well done!
46F and sunny in Michigan!
Did you already have semi-solid motor mounts before you installed the transmission insert? Would be curious to hear your take on the impact of the transmission insert versus the motor mounts.
No, I did not. I had changed my motor mounts about 8000 miles ago to new OEM. With the improvement feeling of the trans inserts, seems like I need to do some research on the semi-solid motor mounts.
Leatherique is awesome. I�ll post the after pictures, but it won�t be an accurate representation of the product�s effectiveness as these seats were already in excellent shape, just kinda dry and ready to be conditioned.
As far as perforated leather goes, I�m not sure how one would go about applying the oil because it�s just slathered on by hand and massaged in. There is probably a better conditioning process for perforated leather, but I�m gonna do some research on that because now I�m curious.
edit* I found this post in the 997 forum:
Bill,
If you have perforated seats just go over that perforated area using a detail sponge lightly. You won't plug up the perforations if you don't go heavy like you would on the side bolstering areas. You should be fine.
Eric
Put on my new Carrera emblem, swapped all my lights expect the H7 lights for leds, conditioned the leather, and went for a drive 150 mile drive on A1A for lunch with My lovely Wife.
It�s difficult to capture with an iPhone, good as these cameras have gotten over the years. But trust me when I say it works great. The Pristine Clean can be used on vinyl and plastic (including seals/weather stripping) in addition to the leather and it makes those materials look and feel new. Don�t get it on anything clear, though. It�s not the end of the world, but it�s just annoying to get off of glass or, particularly, clear plastic (like on the gauges). It doesn�t make stuff shiny and greasy, which I hate.
Also hard to capture is this Atlas Grey...gawt dayum is this a good looking color!
Joey,
Looks so nice! I ordered some of that leather treatment after I saw your post! I had never heard of it and wanted to try it so thank you! Great job on the paint too! The paint and the interior responded well my friend. You did all the right steps in bring it up to another level of nice!!
Eric
I didn't need a flasher or resistors with my Depo lights, but I have seen many posts about that issue with other LED tails. Check out post #5 in this thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...n-signals.html
Thanks Eric! I recommend using a hair dryer to get some heat in the leather (a heat gun would probably be too much) and massaging the Rejuvenator very, very well into the leather. Leave it for a couple hours, then come back and repeat with the hair dryer and more oil and massaging it really well. You apparently can�t leave the stuff on too long. If the leather is cold it probably won�t absorb much of the oil and it�ll feel like a waste of time, effort, and money. You could just massage the oil in and immediately wipe with the Pristine Clean and get an okay result, but the heat and massaging make a huge difference.
I put in the garage door opener controlled by a targa top switch. Works great!!!!
Also put in a new Kenwood head unit and a new 5 channel amp that fits next to the spare tire just like the old Bose. Just drove for few minutes. COOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My car is an 04 C4S so it had the MOST stuff. I replaced the amp with this one
https://hifonics.com/powersports/tho...ps/tps-a600-5/
. I was able to put it next to the spare tire where the original amp sits. I've still got to neaten up my wiring and secure the new amp to the old bracket. I've got a couple of concerns. One, the amp is supposed to be mounted where it's ventilated. Clearly the spare tire area is not. Two, I reused the power wiring from the old amp. I'm hoping that since I don't crank up the sound very much my concerns won't matter. I reused all of the speakers and speaker wiring. I'm not an audio nut so keeping the old speakers is fine with me.
There isn't much new wiring involved. I ran three sets of RCA cables from the new head unit to the amp along with the amp "TURN ON" wire. I think I could have reused the data wire from the old amp for the "TURN ON" wire. 3 meter RCA cords are a perfect length. I used the telephone connector wires behind the dash for the power wiring to the head unit. I also had to run the GPS antenna wire with the RCA cables into the battery area. I stuck it down under the plastic cowling on the passenger side away from the wipers.
It's time consuming but not difficult. I've installed many car radios over the years but never an amp. I've still got to play around with all of the amp and head unit settings. I took my time with every step. I was worried I'd forget a wire or two and I did. I couldn't understand why the GPS was taking so long to locate satelites and I realized that I forgot to plug the antenna wire into the back of the head unit.
I also checked the speaker wiring since I read that Porsche speaker wires colors aren't consistent. For that I clipped an 8' length of speaker wire to one set of speaker wires in the frunk, then sat in the car and touched the other ends of that 8' speaker wire to a 9 volt battery to make sure I knew how each speaker was wired. I found that even a AAA battery is fine for checking the speakers when I misplaced the 9 volt battery.
I had a couple of reasons for wanting to keep the new amp where the old one resided. One, it's less wiring but frankly not much less. Two, my wiring methods while secure just aren't tidy enough to be exposed. I'm amazed at some of the work I've seen. My work looks nothing like that.
Dave
I read that too. The trick I think is to wire the subwoofer and the door speakers in series per CAI. That's all three in series to up the impedance.
https://cai-store.com/pages/996-cabr...-new-amplifier
I feel a bit bad for using so much of the information from that site but not buying anything from them. It's a great resource.
I played around with the settings on the amp today per the instructions and then picked some settings on the head unit. It does sound a lot better than the original head unit and amp. The user interface on the Kenwood takes a bit to get used to but not too bad. I'm glad I got one with Garmin navigation built it. I use Waze quite a bit but sometimes having the map pop up when you press "NAV" is super handy.
Replaced the fuel filter on my 1999 C2 convertible with 75000 miles on it . The job is pain in the a...
The filter was the original one (1999 printed on it). I opened the removed filter which was black dirty on the outside of the filtration medium. The car idles smother.
No regrets except for my hands...
Adendum: I just drove it on the highway and was surprised by the accelerations. I love this car!
Great job! The metra kit seems work great. I've seen them advertised on eBay. I'm thinking about upgrading my system. My wife complains the old becker radio doesn't accept bluetooth music. I explain to her, the best music was being emitted from the Flat 6 engine! hahaha
She didn't find that funny.
Thanks, I'm really enjoying it. I don't know if I'd use the Metra kit again. When I bought the head unit, a factory refurb, through Crutchfield, the whole metra kit was on sale for $5.00. It's worth that of course but I'd be pretty unhappy if I paid much more. Unfortunately, there's no way to secure the Metra kit if you have the factory cup holder using the supplied metra brackets. The factory metal bracket that wraps around the double din opening is secured by two screws a few inches back in the dashboard. With the Metra mount, there's no way to keep that metal bracket and without that bracket, the cup holder isn't supported. The other thing I don't like about the metra kit is that you have to remove the U shaped surround to get the radio out. It's doesn't just slide out of a double din chassis because the double din chassis isn't used. The radio along with the metra mount and the rest of the factory surround has to go in and out together.
I'm still not sure how to best support it. Right now, it's just held in with tape so I can slide the metra bracket with the radio in and out very easily. I wish there was a way to reach around behind it to secure it like we did when dinosaurs roamed the earth. I've got a bit of strange way to do it that might work. I've been thinking about attaching a wire to the metra mount and just running it into the battery compartment where the RCA cables come through. If I could secure it there tightly, the tension would keep the radio in place. It would make pulling it out a snap. You can see where the cables come through in the photo. That grommet is directly behind the left side of radio.
Sound crazy?
I have the H&R Sport springs for the cabrio. I actually ordered the wrong ones (well, I was sent the wrong ones... but I digress) and was going to return them, but I wanted the front a bit lower than the rear like the GT3. These seem to have accomplished that aesthetic goal and I doubt it�ll upset the handling balance in any way. But even if it does, I think it�d actually help the front end bite a little more. I did not measure the fender heights because I don�t see the point of doing that with non-height-adjustable springs, especially when the surface on which I was installing them was not level. Also, the springs are a temporary solution to the 4x4 stock ride height as I will be installing the �hlins R/T coilovers eventually. It�s hard for me to spend a couple grand to replace perfectly good parts, though. My stock suspension only has 24k miles on it and works great. I�ll be taking more pictures with better light later today.
Yup still parting it out (actually just finished getting the car out of my buddy's garage).
There's a bunch of photos in the link below. I don't have any photos of the passenger side door panels but it gives you a sense of what the interior color is. If that works for you then we can arrange something.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tBx4UhX3NLaibYAQ6
It's been a while since I explored this topic and installed a double din in a Porsche. Did you modify a single DIN chassis? Porsche sells a double DIN chassis that would be better designed for installing a double DIN head unit in these cars. But when I installed my double din radio, I just modified the existing chassis and used the mounting cage that came with the radio. Once I got it locked into the existing chassis, the radio would slide out like the single DIN type. No need to take all the switches, chassis, and center console bezel off just to get to the back of the radio. The radio's bezel was also large enough to fill the gaps on the center console. I ordered the upper shelf and AC bezel from Porsche and it worked like a charm. It turned out great.
All four wheels Hunter Road force balanced and rotated Saturday, then today had my second free alignment at the Firestone on Culebra/1604. Firestone has a $299 lifetime alignment. I spent many hours calling around town to find one that had the right equipment for my 03 C2. Get this, the technician is Mr. Carrera, yes, his name is really Jack Carrera! (and he loves Porsche's!)
When I see pics like this, I can�t help but think �future classic�. I�m sure I�m somewhat biased but the proportions are just right. Still a small sportscar, unlike the newer models. Reminds me more of the 964/993 era than the big(ger) 991/992s.
Welcome and you car is stunning! Couple of questions:
Q1) Which wheels did you have before? Pics?
Q2) Your headlight lens look perfect, what product did you use (or was it like that when you bought it)?
Thanks. The wheels I had before are the BBS Sport Design 18" ( Porsche 996 option) The headlight lenses were in great shape when I got the car. ( possibly replacement as the car production date is 3/98) I use Plastix ( Meguair) when detailing it. Cheers
So yesterday I cleaned leaves out of my radiators, changed fuel filter ( dated stamped 11/21/97 so it was due lol), air filter, cabin filter, and flushed the coolant( which was very clean no oil mixing) since it was green and probably not the right kind to begin with. And now I have deceit heat. Cleaned my air box, and throttle body it was a slow day at work.
Also it looks like I don�t have an intermix issue the build up of � mayo� in the filler neck is gone after the trip for Chicago when we picked it up and a few long drives here in Florida gettin it nice and warm.
Next to to do is plugs and trans flush.
Water pump.
to do:
low temp thermostat
transmission fluid change
oil filler tube
momo wheel install
front bumper gt3 cup chin spoiler
and contemplating replacement of '08 ML 350 with this...
I ended up just screwing the metra mount into the plastic chassis as someone else suggested. There isn't much space for screws but I was able get 3 in each side. I played around with using the DD cage but with the cage and bezel that came with the radio, I'd have a 1/2" gap between the radio bezel and cup holder. Anyway it's all done and apple carplay is better than I'd hoped. Waze on the big screen!!!
My buddy says the telephone doesn't sound great but Siri can understand me well enough to send texts at 70MPH - maybe faster. I put the mic and USB connector in the cubby hole. I drove my car down 95 and recorded my voice on my iphone at different locations, cubby, sunvisor and left side of instruments near the OEM mic. None of them are great. The OEM location is the worst. It's blocked by the steering wheel.
That seemed to work about as good as the cubby hole for me when I was testing locations with my iphone. I think it looks better there too but I was getting lazy so I just stuck it in the cubby.
Yesterday I removed the bumper and cleaned the radiators. One side had five mud dauber cocoons that were impossible to completely clean...like cement! I don't think the rads had been cleaned in may years! I relocated the manual frunk release cable to under the passenger headlight for easy access. Today, it's all back together!
bbboomer67, I have a question. You mention, " I relocated the manual frunk release cable to under the passenger headlight for easy access. Today, it's all back together! " If you can't get in your frunk how do you get under your headlight to pull the cable? I am sure I am missing something. Thanks
Thanks, RazorKQ, I was in a hurry and obviously not thinking! I will remove the headlight and put the cable near the tow hook hole unless someone has a better idea!
If one plans to install the GT3 Cup lip on anything other than the Cup car, some modification will be required. As far as my research showed, folks seem to choose the Cup lip because it�s significantly cheaper than the GT3 lip (for whatever reason). I believe most of the fastener holes line up with the Carrera bumper, the exceptions being the end/side fasteners. I can�t rememver everything I read about it, but I did decide that I want to do it to my car at some point relatively soon. To answer your question specifically: the only bumper I have researched as to whether or not the GT3/Cup lip would fit was the Carrera bumper, which is indeed a narrow body, as I�m sure you�re well aware.
I cannot remember where I got these pictures, but they are not mine. The last picture shows the modification(s) he made to the lip to make it fit the Carrera bumper.
Drove the bejeezuz out of it, up to Newcombs Ranch and beyond to 5,000ft elev. came across a guy in a new 3 series who hit a rock and bent his suspension. No cell service out here so gave him a ride back to civilization so he could call for a tow. Did my good deed for the day!
Haha! I felt bad for the guy. Had just moved to Santa Monica from France. Nice guy. Rented a Bimmer. Looked like the driver side front wheel had 30 deg of negative camber!
If you (or anyone else) wants that lip, I have one. I yanked it off as it would scrape on speed bumps and driveways. Cover the shipping and it�s yours. Maybe I should post in that pay it forward thread I saw.
Well that is the one my dealer was going to sell me but they folded it in the box and it had a permanent deformity. Where are you located? I may give it a go. Pm sent.
Well, you are not the first one to mention that they are somewhat sacrificial, it's a common complaint, but I'm a slow learner. And I'm one of those who thinks they might win the lottery, get in shape, pick the right line at the supermarket, etc.
Pulled a idler pulley off and waiting for a new bolt to reinstall it. I think the tensioner is also on its way out. I was trying to figure out how to remove the power steering pump pulley to get a clearance to get a combination wrench on the bolt in the back of the tensioner pulley but can�t seem to pull the power steering pump pulley. It is stuck solid even after taking the 3 bolts off. In the process, discovered bolt holding down the air filter box somehow sheared off..also waiting for a replacement to arrive.
Took the front bumper cover off to clean out the radiators and adjust the cover as it is a bit off.
I think you jinxed me! I had just installed the short shift kit and my car would not start so I could test drive it. The battery just died. 5 years old so it was time. Went out and put a new battery in today and test drove the car. The short shift is cool! takes a little getting used to. Harder to shift from 2 to 3 don't know why but I sort of have to "force" it into third gear. I will report after driving for a few days!
maybe just getting too old. I like the vibration/the feel when I�m in the �mood of driving spirited runs� but it gets annoying if you are not in the mood and just driving around town. Also removing my lowering springs and removed the rear fixed tech art wing. Overall, I just want the car back in its classic oem/911 look and feel.
My car, C4S, came with a factory short **** kit. It felt odd to me like I almost was forcing it into gear or a bit too stiff. I replaced my motors mounts, they were sagging about an 1.5" and my tranny mount. It made a big improvement. The gear shift also feels more centered between third and fourth in neutral.
Lets see, glued the trim around the windshield, (hopefully that cut down some wind noise I'm hearing), tried replacing the lic plate lights and front turn signals but the clips that hold the blubs for the plate light are very brittle and broke so gluing them back in.
the mount for the front headlights that dock the light harness are broken so after I fix the yellowing of the lens. I will have to fix the mount or pull the front wheels to plug them back in. YAY!!!
New motor mounts are here so maybe after I fix the headlights...
I'm trying to decide if I would buy a Tip or not.
Having one Porsche manual transmission is fine with me.
My wife can drive a manual if she needs to, but she prefers automatics.
Not too many years ago she felt differently...well maybe it was quite a few years ago.
I need to teach my son to drive a manual transmission, but I'm hesitant to do that in my daily driver.
If I had a spare vehicle, then I'd be more open to teaching him.
I just don't want to reduce my clutch life at the moment since I don't have a spare "just in case" vehicle.
That happened to me when I went to change my license plate bulbs to LED. The holder just disintegrated in my hand. They're not expensive to replace.
Changing the motor mounts sounds very manly when you tell other people that you did it, but they are one of the easiest DIYs you can do on the 996.
Two easy fixes today: removed the black Carrera badge and replaced it with silver and relocated the engine lid manual release to under the bumper cover behind the rear wheel - just three screws provide access.
Any pictures from a distance? I debadged mine that had the black emblem and you can still see the old badge in certain lights. this may be something to make it pop a little more.
Not until spring, Gregcoleman81. The car is in my basement and won't see the light of day until April (too much snow). No ghost of the old badge as the new one fit perfectly on top of the old. I did see a YouTube video where the old badge ghost was polished out with an orbital polisher. If you don't want to replace your old badge, that may be a solution for you.
Replaced oil filler tube. Must have been rubbing on something. I'll take a look when I put all back together. New one has 997 model # on it. I managed to do it without removing throttle body. Paitence, feel and dexterity.
new one with fresh o ring went in snug, unlike one removed that almost fell out.
Installed Crank Seal using DIY PVC installation tool.
RMS Installation via DIY PVC Tool
Since January 1st:
Oil Cooler O-Rings
Air Oil Separator
Waterpump
Heat Shield Stand-offs (to clear new style coils)
I learned more about its engine from The Knowledge Gruppe�s Porsche M96/M97 Engine Rebuild 101 class.
If you haven�t attended one, you need to!
Now I�m hoping to make it to the 102 class in February.
I set the Seal to 13mm below the crankshaft face.This seemed to be the consensus across multiple sources. After looking closely at everything with the seal removed,I would guess that the exact depth is not super critical. The critical factors seem to be getting the seal lip off of the area previously worn by the former seal while not going too deep into the crankcase.
I set the Seal to 13mm below the crankshaft face.This seemed to be the consensus across multiple sources. After looking closely at everything with the seal removed,I would guess that the exact depth is not super critical. The critical factors seem to be getting the seal lip off of the area previously worn by the former seal while not going too deep into the crankcase.
Yeah, that was super informative. I learned quite a bit of new stuff and added to my to-do list during the class. I signed up for the 102 class during the break in the class.
I'm very lucky that this is so close to home, so I don't have to pay for airline tickets or rental car--just hotel for a few nights. I figure the hands-on knowledge I get in the 102 could easily save me the cost of the class even if I don't plan on rebuilding my own engine. The better I can understand the inner workings of this engine, the better I can understand how to treat it and maintain it.
Flat6 did a bunch of work on my new-to-me 996 in September and I hope to not have to send my car back in the near future.
“Ignorance doesn’t change reality.”
Your car looks great, fantastic stance; may I ask what is the ride height measurement now w/ the coilovers from either fender lip to center of wheel or to the ground? Thanks, cheers,
I took mine to a Lone Star Region PCA and someone took some pictures of my car...well, kinda.
They posted them on the region's Facebook page.
Mine is the third car back:
There were 3 of us 996 owners.
Bao-
thanks, I think it looks right too. I am away from the car today but will measure for you tomorrow. I used GT3 specs for ride height and alignment settings.
cheers,
Brenton
Yes, I too would like your fender to ground measurements if that is not too much to ask. I still get rubbing on my fronts at a high angle of turn, so I am interested in comparing numbers.
Actually yesterday, but I started it (eek, I know I am not supposed to start it below 40F) and drove it! In Michigan it has been so strange without snow, I feel the need to take it out as much as possible! Great fun!
Thanks, yes 18". Very happy with the wheels and color overall. Have H&R RSS coilovers, but still sorting out the final ride height. Happy with the spring rates.
Sitting in the garage, mostly level (?), not terribly scientific measurement of 24.75" front and 25.25" rear. Measured from ground to fender lip in a straight line intersecting wheel center.
I may raise the rear .2-.4" (5-10mm) once it settles as it is currently at the low range of the GT3 spec. I have had only a short drive (maybe 7 miles) since install as the weather stinks here at the moment, but experienced no rubbing front or rear in that time.
Hope that helps,
Brenton
In 2011�ish as I setup my �99 for 70% track, 30% street, I spent a lot of time over on the Racing and Driver�s Ed forum. The consensus of opinion at that time was wheel weight makes little to no difference until you have gotten everything else out of the car. Then lighter wheels might make a difference as you stretch for that last 1 second per lap.
Between the two wheels in question, I seriously doubt one could feel a difference by the seat of the pants, or measure it on the track.
10# unsprung weight > 10# sprung weight.
But reducing 10# unsprung weight costs a LOT more than reducing 200# of sprung weight
When I used to build race cars, we lost weight via ANY legal means possible BEFORE spending money on lighter wheels.
People would ask about what we were doing to our cars and we'd tell them we were "chasing free horsepower."
That meant we were putting the chassis on a diet plan.
We would cut off unused brackets for a few ounces.
Thanks, nuttyprofessor.
just finished water pump, low temp thermostat, new belt, gear box fluid change and oil filler tube. NO LEAKS! Now on to mounting my momo steering wheel and new to me wheels, when they get here.
Picked up my new (to me) car today! Very happy, due to my travel schedule, parts shipping delays and a holiday vacation from my indy tech, it took almost a month to get my car ready. But it is done (IMS/RMS/clutch etc.) and is great! Put about 50 miles on it today, on suburban Chicago roads, which are similar to any third-world country that was previously a major battle zone. Now to start cleaning up some minor issues and I will have a fun driver.
Daryll
I actually like the feel of my 3 spoke but wish it was a little smaller in diameter. My toy cars always get steering wheel, shifter and exhaust upgrades but I'm having a tough time deciding what to change on the 996 as it's pretty darn good as is. I do need to get my suspension done before anything first, getting some creaking.
Let us know how you like the MOMO upgrade (I have one on my speedster and love it)
i didn�t think it�s possible to remove oil filler tube without removing the alternator. Thx for the heads up, I will take a good look at it again before I remove the alternator. Yes small bag in between oil filler pipe tub & drive belt are o-rings for filler pipe tube.
This fix was a pain for me...definitely had to remove the throttle body and the plenum and it still took me almost 2-1/2 hours to replace my oil filler tube. Way to go 85 on getting the part in without all the disassembly!
Sure thing. Apex SM-10 in anthracite. 18x8.5 and 18x11. ETs 42 and 60. I found the Porsche centercaps used on Ebay. Color matches the wheels perfectly.
I now have my 19� Champion RG5s up for sale in the Marketplace.
I only drove mine to work and back.
But I did receive 3 packages today.
1) 6 NEW Bosch fuel injectors from Warehouse33.
Awesome price!
2) Porsche water pump, LN thermostat, Porsche bolts, gaskets, and Porsche coolant from Pelican Parts.
3) Function First transmission mount insert from islaTurbine.
Wish I could install it all right away, but tomorrow I'll be working on a customer's vehicle. (1993 Toyota Camry with under 35,000 miles)
Hope I can get to my 996 on Saturday or Sunday.
No, that is not my car. Having suggested the exact wheels you ended up getting in the thread you started titled �Ideal 18� wheel size� is what I was referring to.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...heel-size.html
I just thought it was funny that I specifically suggested the SM-10 in anthracite, then you said you were inspired by a picture of a 997.
Ha! Yes you are right. I forgot about that post. Thanks for posting that link. Definitely swayed me to the SM-10s. After seeing the Apex site I looked around for anthracite wheels on Black 911s and the pic of this car sold me. I think they are another brand of wheels, but very similar look to the SM-10s. So yes, kudos to you Joey!
Thank you! I�m very much looking forward, as I�m sure you are, to seeing them on the car (and I�m willing to bet we�re not the only ones)! They�re going to look soooo good, I think. And I�m certain they�re significantly lighter than the wheels they�re replacing. The overall dynamics of the driving and aesthetic experience of your car will be transformed (for the better, in my opinion). That�s always very exciting.
not today, but this week I ordered the European spec coils for my C4S. Delivery time... 3 to 4 weeks.
Wainting for them to be mounted together the rain sensor and the auto dim mirror and also together the PSE mod.
I will update with pics!
what a giant PIA!!! But glad to get it all done. Also did new drive belt and corner balance as well after coil-over install.
All put back together
New water pump & oil filler pipe tub in
It held up and no leaks after test drive
So I like the new coil-over. Pretty soft & compliant. Ended up setting it 15 clicks from the softest setting. Supposedly goes all the way to 35 clicks.
Actually weighed them and my old Champions were approx 5lbs lighter on each corner. That�s wheels and tires. Amazingly light for a 19� wheel. Anyway, pics attached. Just a quick IPhone shot. Having my cameraman buddy take some real shots soon.
Wow, I just looked up the RG5. I was not aware it was one piece or that it was so light. I figured the tires would be slightly heavier, but I thought, just from looking at them, the 19s must�ve been pretty heavy (which they are definitely not). Well, the increased weight and sidewalls will soak up bumps a lot better, which was the goal. They look good too!
I think it�s the crappy IPhone pic or angle. From straight on it sits just right for my taste. It already has the M030 setup. Wouldn�t want to go any lower.
Last night I started the demo on my radio head unit and also replaced the LCD screen which is broken on the heat / ac unit. Going to finishup the radio today.
What head unit did you get? Carplay? I'm thinking seriously about doing this to my car - I'm between a double-din unit and the Continental radio with bluetooth. Leaning double-din but will be curious how your installation goes.
Daryll
Apex makes some nice wheels. Wish they had more styles for our cars. I was debating on getting a new set myself or having the oem wheels refinished in a metallic gold. I think it would look good against the metallic blue paint.
Thanks! They�re Sumitomo HTRs. 225/40/18 and 295/30/18. I coulda gone 235/40 and 315/30 but wasn�t 100% sure if they would rub. Next set of tires I�ll def go up to the wider sizes.
I went with the pioneer below. Its nothing special and very simplistic. That is what I was looking for. I wanted something very simple that would not be outdated in 5 years like a lot of touch screens might.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-7VDg64...VH-S600BS.html
Thank you very much! Will check that out. I�m looking for something pretty simple too - my car has the base system, so no real benefit to going for high-end audio. I just want something that will give me Bluetooth and other �modern� functions.
Daryll
I undid some of Flat6Innovations work!
I installed a new Porsche composite vane water pump and an LN Engineering thermostat.
The old water pump bearings were fine, but it was time to do it as preventative maintenance.
I also installed a new serpentine belt.
My engine carrier plate wouldn�t move far enough to get the water pump out.
I had to remove both cats to get the clearance.
I expected it to only take 2 hours, but it took a lot longer.
Next on my list is a new AOS (more undoing Flat6Innovations work) and brand new Bosch fuel injectors.
I also want to lower the coilovers sometime soon.
No they didn�t mess up.
Too much time had passed since they installed the water pump that it needed to be changed again.
It was installed in 2013. (About 30k miles ago)
Every time I see your name on the last to post in this thread, I think I�m gonna get to see that GT3/PSC2 wheel/tire combo on your car. The car cover looks nice though too.
Yesterday I replaced these leaky jerks.
Today I replaced this malfunctioning goober and had a long, spirited drive around to ensure proper behavior from the new things.
Headlight switch
Excellent. I'm familiary with the radiator agony, but is the headlight switch difficult? I don't have the flexibility that I used to....standing on my head is a challenge in itself. Well done, BTW
headlight switch is pretty easy, I did it by kneeling next to the door sill with eh door open. The worst part is dealing with sticky, crumbling foam on top of the switch that dies integrates as you pull it out.
No, the headlight switch took about 15 minutes.
Last week I actually took it out and cleaned it with contact cleaner thinking that might save me a bit of cash. It didn't work. I knew it was probably the switch because when the lights
did
come on, they both came on. With the new switch they come right on every time.
With respect to the radiators, I'm thinking of spending some money of
these
these
guys just to make the potential future replacement less likely. It was no fun.
Due to a long story that involves my daughter having my wife's GTI away at school this month, I had to take the 996 to the airport today. Dodged large chunks of winter muck and mess and made it here relatively un-salted, just to discover that the garage was almost full and I would get to park on the roof. Now I guess that I get to test the battery Saturday as it is supposed to be a high in the teens. Not exactly what I'm looking forward to upon arrival. Hoping that Sunday is at least warm enough / clear enough to get to my local car wash with underbody spray and get the salt off of it. Guess that is what we get this time of year in the tropical paradise otherwise known as central Ohio...
Daryll
Yes, if my car had been clean I would have used Uber for sure. But my car is already a mess from my drive last week from Chicago to Columbus, so not much to lose. Either way it needs cleaned up soon. The garage roof was an unexpected surprise (not in a good way) though...
Daryll
Does your 996 go through an automatic car wash? I went to two automatic washes that I've used for years with other cars. They both said no way, the 996 is too low.
That is a great question. Will have to find out. I'm not a fan of car washes. but in the winter the one by our house has the under body spray that has kept our regular cars more or less rust free for a while. It is cloth, but still end up having to wax out some swirl marks. Still, would rather do that than have a rusty car...
Daryll
In my area, they throw this much salt down even BEFORE anything starts. Then they keep applying it whenever it rains, snows, or freezes.
The whole area is steeped in brine until the spring rains. So today, I checked the battery manager and upgraded the rodent control sonic devices in the garage.
It was the same in Montpelier! I can only dream of spring while watching my pretty car on its battery tender in my basement while I get to some winter projects. At this rate, it will be mid April before I can get the car out!
I use the touchless car wash. The car just sits there and the robot arms go around it . Also has an undercar wash. I probably would not drive my car in the salt if not for this! Nevertheles 18 inches of snow! I took her out and let her dance in the winter wonderland!
I need to find one of those touchless car washes near me. The only one that I knew about closed years ago, but I think there may be one at a filling station. That will work for what I want - I can finish cleaning it up in the garage as long as it is not stupid cold. Unfortunately this weekend is supposed to be 15 degrees or so... Not helpful, but to be expected in January.
Hope you had fun in the snow! Years ago I remember lots of people driving 911's around here all winter - they are pretty good snow cars. Now you never see one (except mine yesterday). At least on the airport roof there was a brand new Panamera so I'm not the only one getting P-cars dirty this week.
Daryll
Last weekend I removed the bumper and cleaned out the radiators. Wow, lots of junk in there.
This past weekend I fixed the "no heat" issue caused by the lack of foam on the doors in the heating/cooling system. I used the "shortcut" method where you remove the radio and climate control panel and then cut into the system. Perhaps not the "right" method, but much simpler than removing the entire dashboard! I now have heat!
Now to figure out why my windows aren't working...
Four or five hours maybe. Tough to say since I spread it out over the three-day weekend. It's been unusually COLD here, single digits over the weekend, and while I have a garage, it's still probably in the upper thirties to low forties in there. Plus I'm a little slower than the average DIYer.
I will say that there are more holes to cover with tape than I'd seen in any pictures. 21 total. I used metallic duct tape to cover the holes and to re-seal the cabinet. Definitely worth the hassle.
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Ordered my first 'parts' for it. New Carerra emblem, license plate frame, vale stem caps and touch up paint. Definitely needed the emblem, the last A is somehow cracked and it will give me a chance to polish behind it with it off. A lot of gross wax and dirt build up behind it.
Awesome - thank you very much! Yes, mine are 18", so Sport Classic II. Funny how much misinformation is floating around through the interwebs...
Daryll
I bought it and drove it home.
Needs a thorough going through. Once I get the snow away from the door and can put it on the lift - the fun will begin.
Appropriate tune on the music box...
I did a poor man's refurbish of my weathered and cracked steering wheel. Results are much better than what I had, but still far from perfect. Just can't justify dropping $375 right now to have Dallas Custom redo the wheel the right way.
Scott at Team Harco...Welcome to the 996 madness. Please give us some more details on why a 996? Looks like you have quite a stable of 944s!
I need to do this also, pictures please...
Hey Ratchet - I have always been a big Porsche fan. When I first witnessed the (then new) Porsche Carerra 6 (906) at Road America as a kid, I fell in love with that sound and that look. My father had a 356 Speedster when I was a very small child and he then had a 911E when I was in my teens. There were lots of pictures of his other Porsches among his trophy collection. We were always cheering for the marque and their motorsport heritage grew, as I did.
I have always wanted a 911. The closest I could get, with my limited budget was the 944. We now have 5-6 of them. Bought them all for cheap and fixed them up to become reliable daily-driver and also for use as rallycross and track-day cars. In 2013 a friend allowed me to rallycross his 911. I fell in love with the car and renewed my vow to have one, one day. Maybe you've seen this car. It's in a lot of magazines and gets around many of the car shows in our area. The shot below was actually taken at our farm at the Detroit SCCA Season Ender RallyCross of 2013. I drove like a ****** that day and ended up about 5th or 6th. The owner (Paul) took the class win. It wasn't a bad season, though, as I won 10 of 11 and the 2WD championship.
Over the past few years I've been socking-away money. When it reached a certain level, I decided to start looking for
my
911. I bought Peter Zimmerman's book. Did some research and started looking at prices. That's when I discovered the car I now own. Knowing that the IMS bearing has been replaced eased most of my apprehension with regard to this 996. There were other items in the listing that helped me in my decision to have a look. The price was significantly lower than any comparable 911s I came across. It's got a fair amount of mileage (123k), but it is in good shape and has been well maintained. Having driven it home from Linwood (MI) in a snow storm, I now have a list of things to address before claiming it to be my daily. But that's what I do: 1) buy cheap, 2) fix, 3) drive.
Wow, I didn't know the outside temp gauge could display negative temps.
I did see mine at 30F yesterday morning.
That's the coldest I've ever seen it...and
THAT
is cold enough for me!
That's why I live in a warmer climate.
It rarely gets below 50F in the winter time.
When it does, I complain a lot!
I sure don't miss those very cold winter days I grew up with in NW Texas!
But they're nothing compared to what those up north see.
True. The pictures I saw of it didn't immediately make it obvious it was a cab. Only on the phone, with the seller, he mentioned it came with a hardtop.
Me: ".......... Oh..... so it's a cab? Oh well, that's not the end of the world".
Would prefer a coupe, for sure, but the price was too good. Besides, if I plan to RallyCross the car, a hardtop will allow me to run. Should be able run it on the track as well. Did notice some squeaks on the way home last night. Will look to see if I can secure, or pad, the lid better.
And of course the lemonade side is, when we get those three sunny days in the summer, I can even drop the top.
Changed a tire in the pouring rain last night. I was planning on getting new rear tires in the Spring, but a pot hole sealed the deal. I don't think this is going to buff out.
I didn't take any pictures, it isn't life changing by any means. My car lived it's early life in Florida, and the top of the steering wheel appears to have been baked by the sun, though the dash looks perfect and the rest of the interior doesn't seem to have suffered the same UV damage. I pulled the wheel, sanded the cracking down with a scotchbrite pad to smooth it out. Then I took the Kiwi black shoe polish to it. It looks worlds better, but it still needs to be refinished properly.
Changed cabin and engine air filters. Swapped out the limpy hood struts for a fresh set so I don’t get drilled in the back again while reaching into the bottom of the trunk. Got rid of the amber side marker lights for a set of clear.
Waiting for my Fister exhaust to arrive before dropping it off for that to get intstalled, the IMS, RMS, water pump, belts and fresh bake fluid.
@Sobirquet
You will love the Fisters. I had mine done about 8 years ago and I still get a kick out of them. If you're having a shop do the IMS and other stuff, have them replace the AOS at the same time, unless you know that it's been changed recently.
As mentioned, great story and picture, thank you for sharing. Look forward to possibly seeing you at the track (Waterford, Grattan, Mid-Ohio, etc.). Please keep the forum posted (as you are I see) on the maintenance and performance modifications!
Had two new rear tires put on today. Of course as soon as I got home I removed and reinstalled them to make sure they were properly seated, torqued, and inflated. Just for the record, they were grossly over-torqued and under inflated.
Potholes are really bad here in Albany! Got 3 rims and tires damaged last year on my Subaru!! Only reason I'm not driving the Porsche as much in the winter now.. pothole nightmare everywhere!
Somewhat clean, at least salt-free for a while.
Drove home from the airport, stopped at the car wash to get rid of the salt. At least it looks somewhat presentable right now. Hopefully next weekend can work on the hardtop squeaking and chase down a shift **** and handbrake handle.
Daryll
Nice! Are the cutouts the style from the GT3RS? Did you do the center radiator flip and ducting to make it functional? I have the parts to do this but am gunshy about cutting up my bumper. Any tips you can share would be appreciated. Maybe start a new thread/post in the details of this modification?
Drove out to a local joint with the Kansas City PCA guys to watch the end of a very anticlimactic 24 Hrs of Daytona IMSA race. It was actually dry enough that the car stayed clean. Amazing.
https://sportscarchampionship.imsa.c...117&sessid=877
It was painful to watch. After the rain started, it did not stop. Several red flags, accidents, run-offs, and they finally waived the checkered flag under a red flag stop with about 20 minutes left.
Found out I had yet another punctured tire...this is the third in two years. I think the local tire shop might be tossing out nails on the road to drum up business.
I picked this up from Facebook Market Place:
It was between my in-laws house and home.
Brand new never used 320mm Momo steering wheel.
Not really the style I was wanting, but for $40 I couldn't pass it up!
I may keep it for autox or track days.
...or I might try to trade it for a Momo Tuner in a larger diameter.
Did the targa shade button to garage opener mod.
I had to run a couple wires around behind the A/C control to piggy back onto the door lock button for the switch lighting since there were no other switches on the left side. I couldn't have it be the only unlit switch.
Thanks!
I've only ever known the scientific/technology meaning. Storage can be low latency, as can networks. I figure a naturally aspirated 996 is low latency (throttle response) too.
I was a Storage Area Network administrator many years ago that use low-latency fiber channel.
More recently I built high performance clusters that required low-latency Infiniband for reservoir simulation on Linux & Windows HPC.
I also knew a doctor years ago who was into low latency investing.
He made and lost a BUNCH of money.
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I replaced the headlight switch. After I was done, I opened up the old one to see what broke. It's junk!!!!!!! I guess they use really cheap plastic. The plastic piece right behind the switch just fell apart. The rest of the switch including the rest of plastic parts were like new. Oh well, at least it's easy to replace.
The car is pretty clean, but changed the cabin filter and found this, yikes. No mice in my garage, but I think a P.O had a friend living in theirs for a short period. Luckily I�ve been into the car pretty well over the past couple of years and found no other traces of visitors...
Replaced my headlight bulbs with led ones, (Autofather off eBay) like the white light compared to the yellow, I think the yellow dates the car, quite easy to do apart from getting the headlamp clips around the bigger bulb unit! The one on the left is new right is the old one!
photo116.jpg
noz1974, they look great. Do they help much with additional usable lighting? Some people claim that LEDs in halogen reflectors create too much scatter. I�d like to get more usable light out of my (base halogen) setup without investing in litronics, so am eager to hear. Thanks!
I don't know how the color compares with the LED, but I put in Sylvania Silver Star Halogen bulbs a few years ago and the brightness and visibility improvement was dramatic over regular halogens.
Since I haven't fixed my wrist pin tool using Jake's method(plan to do that this weekend) I decided I'd play with my camshaft timing tools.
Here's my engine after I got done playing:
Still looking for an old crankshaft and IMS (plus the bearing) if anyone has one they want to get rid of.
They can be shot, they just need to turn so I can edumacate myself.
I really envy your determination and educational fortitude, thanks for sharing. I have the replacement IMS bearing out of my car after the IMSS was installed. The mechanic said it needed to be replaced (grinding a little), but Charles said that was impossible to know when it was in the car. I can take pictures to make sure it will help you...
Repaired my driver's side tilt latch. Spent about two hours trying to repair the cable from the bottom before taking the leather cover and padding off. Super simple to repair after that and fairly quick reassembly. Improved the cable stop at the top and now works better than when I bought it and feels like new!
@Ratchet1025
, thanks!
That would be great.
Today I was off work, so I took my 996 for a drive.
I drove it hard!
I accidentally drove past a local unmarked police car going faster than I should have on a twisty road.
He pulled up next to me and gave me a thumbs up.
I use these in my truck. Nice visibility for sure, but I've been using them for 4-5 years and never had one last more than 12 month. Keep a couple of spares in your toolbox.
Replaced the fuel filter today. The old one had a date code of June 2011, and now I understand why.
I'd like to meet the doctoral candidate who thought it was a good idea to put it on top of the coolant lines in the center of the car. He must have hands like an 8 year old girl.
Not to mention the cup of gasoline that ends up on the floor when the lines are disconnected and filter tipped for removal.
Finally got around to tearing the motor from my 2000 apart (purchased as a roller, intermix, suspected D-chunk).
Not pretty:
Not sure if it is just the lighting, but it seems like there are two different colora of material in the cyliner wall. Is there a special casting with a different cylider wall material or treatment (like nikasil on some other motors)?
I installed one new Rennline sill plate.
Sure was a battle getting the old one off.
Ran into the same adhesive as the name badges use.
Goo Gone was no match, so I installed over the old adhesive.
I think it looks nice to me.
I like the nameless look.
I‘ll do the other after the Super Bowl, or tomorrow evening.
I need to vacuum and wipe off the drip of Speed Shine I used to clean the sill with.
It�s a well known fact that Engineers have a huge hate of automotive technicians and make it their life�s work to irritate them to no end.
Seriously I�ve read that some engineered causes of access issues for repair is due to multiple isolated projects within a new vehicle design program not knowing the final design of other projects.
In this case the fuel project team and the coolant project team needed to do more collaboration.
they also need to have an automotive technician involved with both project teams.
Well I finished installing the Rennline sill plates on the passenger side.
Here are some photos:
Before
During. I used dental floss to get under the original sill so I could pull it up enough to get my interior tool underneath. Then it was a tedious push and pull to get the adhesive to release the sill.
Finished
No worries, the motor is scrap, I replaced it with a good running one a couple of years ago. I knew it was bad when I bought the car, just not the extent of the damage - there was a bit of metal in the sump, but the damaged cylinder wasn�t visible from the sump or the valve train. This is just spare parts and/or scrap metal...
Here are the the pics. This came out of my �99 so the IMSS could be installed. Can anyone identify the markings? If this is OK, I will mail it to you (I have the address).
Answering my own question, but in case anyone else wonders: according to Wayne Dempsey�s 101 Projects for your Porsche 911 996 and 997, �Porsche used a type of insert-mold casting process to directly incorporate Lokasil cylinder liners into the case� (p.48). Mystery solved.
Intellectual exercise only.
This way I can work with the LN IMS tools and a "throw away" part before using the tools for real.
I'll probably install and uninstall it may times just because I can.
I won't throw it away, but keep it so I can show people what an IMS bearing looks like.
The M96/25 above won't ever be rebuilt for real.
It's so I can see inside and get my hands on an M96.
The M96/25 case above with pistons, rods, crank carrier, and a few other parts was really cheap at $225.
(It was cheap because it has "oval bores and needs to be bored .20 over." It came from a machine shop.)
Really it needs to go to LN for Nickies.
The one 4-6 cylinder head with cams ran me another $225.
(It appears to be in great shape. It will be used to practice cam timing, etc.)
$450 and I had an "engine" that I could look inside with my own eyes.
Pictures on a website or in a book are fine to start with, but I have to feel it with my hands in person to really understand the engineering behind it.
I've seen inside lots of 4 cylinders, inline 6s(BMW & Nissan) and V6(Ford, Honda, Toyota, Chevy) and V8s.(Chevy)
I've seen inside old air-cooled VW & Porsche engines too.
But this is the first time I've seen inside a Porsche M96.
My ultimate goal is to be able to rebuild my own M96/03 when the time comes.
I'd also like to be able to rebuild other peoples M96es, but that is still a few years off.
I hope to attend The Knowledge Gruppe's next M96 hands-on class.
The more I look at this M96 and figure out stuff, the more questions I have to eventually ask Jake.
I'm also looking forward to reading Jake's book when it is released.
eBay
Look for Boxster parts, they're cheaper.
Sometimes they're the same exact part, but they get discounted because they're from a Boxster.
2.5L parts seem to be the cheapest, but 2.7 are not too bad either.
Look for a full case.(both sides)
Search for: Porsche Boxster used engine case
Also use the word "Block" instead of "case"
You have to keep searching, or setup a notification, and be ready to buy when they become available.
I have a couple of sellers that I also check.
There are a bunch of dismantled Boxsters available now.
Flood? Wrecks? Blown engines?
Yesterday I took mine for a good long drive. (longer than my normal 52 mile daily commute)
While stopped at a
LONG
stop light I came across this option I'd never tried before:
When I pressed it, it did this:
SO
much cleaner look to the gauges.
How did I
NOT
know this feature existed until yesterday?
Unfortunately it doesn't remember this setting, so I had t do it again this morning.
Anybody know if the gauge cluster can be programmed to default to all blank under the tachometer?
Super cool, I'm jealous. Owning and working on a number of German cars over the last 20 years or so, I've come to the conclusion that I can change parts, but I'm not a mechanic. I have an extra motor/tranny for my e30 that's been sitting downstairs for some time and I often think about taking it apart just to see if I could put it back together properly.... one day, one day...
I had no idea about the "nothing" under the tach look. I love it. You are right; it doesn't stick. However, when I got back into the car the selector was already on that setting in the controls so just a push of the stick switches it back off.
I can't figure out how to start a new post on rennlist! I'm a new member, just bought a 2001 C4 cab, and have LOTS of questions and things to talk about - but can't do it! Can someone send me a link or something to help me get started?
Thanks!!!
Just got mine back yesterday from my indy. Had the following done;
- IMS
- RMS
- AOS
- Water Pump
- Serp Belt
- Fister Exhaust
- Brake fluid flush , fresh coolant and oil.
Love the Fister exhaust.. so glad I went with them. No drone and the perfect amount of sound! Next up is RSS engine mounts and wheel spacers. Still debating the under drive pulley too. Then on to suspension....
I washed mine in 40 degree weather and then took it on a very spirited drive to The Woodlands to the Lone Star Region PCA Banquet.
The guest speaker was Darren Law, former Porsche professional race car driver and current team owner of Flying Lizard Motorsports.
He won the 24 hours of Daytona in 2009 and finished 4th at Le Mans in 2012.
Ordered center console lid hinge repair kit (metal hinge) and new gas cap. The plastic right hinge on the center console lid finally gave up after 20 years. I believe the gas cap is original. When I was getting gas I stood and looked at the O-ring on the gas cap and it was all cracked. I'm really surprised it didn't throw an evap system CEL at me. Little things to keep after.
Tried out the new pucks, worked great! Made jacking the car so much easier.
Washed/detailed the car real well, pulled the wheels off and did a wheel well scrub.
I have had my 04 C4S Cab for a little over a month now. Finally did the first oil change. I also dropped the pan to look for issues and scoped cylinder #6. Thankfully everything checked out good and I grabbed an oil sample for Blackstone. I also changed out the transmission fluid.
I do have an oil leak in the engine but it is high on the right side of the engine (passenger side). It seems to be dripping off of a corrugated tube high up on the right side. I have oil over the whole right side of the engine including the #6 injector. I am researching what it could be. I am thinking AOS, but I am not getting any smoke from the exhaust.
-Thanks
Nice but cold day in Ohio - wife and I drove from Columbus to Cincinnati so that my son could play with the 911. He loved it, despite only being 23. Thought it was cool that a car could have almost zero electronics. His car is a Focus ST, so he likes sporty stuff...
Wife got to ride in the backseat to go to lunch and to Costco. She did not complain (too much) about being stuffed back there. Said it was not too bad but not as much room as my Mustang had. Drove home. Very nice day.
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Replaced a broken exhaust manifold bolt on my 2004 C2.
I broke this last year, when the engine was removed for various work (including IMS Solution install). Of the 12 bolts, 11 came out cleanly. The exception was the rearmost one on the left side - which (naturally) is the one with the worst access: the thermostat housing interferes, so this must be removed, which means that coolant must be drained.
The M8 bolt broke off flush with the exhaust manifold flange, so about 6 mm remained above the aluminum block. I tried using a camming socket to grab this, bit its grip was inadequate. I then welded an M8 nut onto the stub, which gripped well - but the bolt broke again, this time flush with the block. So I drilled a pilot hole as near the center as I could, and then enlarged this, ground out the remains with a Dremel plus carbide bit, and re-tapped the threads. The entire job consumed a lot of time over 2 days, but the end result was very satisfactory.
I finished by replacing all the original manifold bolts with titanium versions, treated with anti-seize. I think this means the problem will not happen again.
I installed several clear bra pre-cut kits from invisible mask (headlights, 1/3 hood, mirrors and bumper)
All went in perfectly except the bumper... it needs a lot, but really a lot of stretching. I have to re order it because it was really difficult (I had ordered the replacement guarantee)
I had a leak from that corrugated tube. It was cracked, and when I replaced it, it shattered like glass. I have 996.2 btw. The corrugated tube is the crankcase vent tube that goes to the AOS. It requires manifold removal for replacement.
.02
Interesting. I have oil on that tube. I was thinking that is what was leaking. Do you know the purpose of this tube? If this has a crack, would it potentially send MAF errors as there would be unmetered air entering the engine?
Crankcase vent tube going to the AOS. Yes, this would be an air leak, as the eventually the crankcase gases are routed back to the intake (via AOS). I didn't have any codes from my leak. I was able to temporarily repair this with some "miracle" leak repair tape until I had time to repair it properly. The hard part is finding the leak. My crack started as chafing on a component bracket at the top of the motor. I don't remember which one.
New Owner here! I took photos of the car right after I got it.
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Another vote for the gold cap here! And we need moar pics of your wheels when the caps are on...
I love the retro look of the gold centers but then again I'm biased because I had gold centers on a '80s BMW 10-15 years ago.
I'll update once I've thrown some caps on and it's sunny. Thanks for your driveway pick, I was unsure if I was going overboard with cars... Nope!
Here's my Instagram with a few more pics of my 996
Instagram
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Picked up my C4S Cab about 2 months ago with 61K miles on it. Thought it ran decent and but the first cold shift into 3rd was a bit tricky with the factory short shifter. It also had an intermittent issue with the ABS and PSM lights coming on occasionally but would go away with a restart. I Checked the codes and it was a MAF issue. First, I cleaned the MAF, but the issue would still come back. Finally, last week the Check Engine light came on. I replaced the MAF with a Bosch unit and replaced the K&N Cold Air kit with a factory air box. WOW!!! What a difference. Much better throttle response to the car. I guess the car was always running a little off due to the MAF issue.
Since I have had the car, I have replaced Trans fluid (much better shifting now), Changed the oil (dropped the pan and inspected it), changed the oil filter (inspected old one and nothing in it), and flushed the brakes and clutch systems with ATE fluid. Car is running great now.
Next item is dropping the trans and doing IMS Solution, RMS and AOS. Clutch should be fine as it was replaced at 45K miles. I Need to wait a month or two until the weather warms up a bit for that major overhaul.
+1 on the tubulars. I gave 'em up years ago with the first tubeless set up and haven't looked back.
Now you've got to get some factory racks and throw a couple of bike trays on top (what I'm doing once I get 3 out of 4 mounting points drilled out and tapped...)
New TIRES.
The car had mixed tires on it when I bought it, One new Sunitomo on the rear with mostly worn out Conti, and 07 dated Dunlops on the front.
Had a match to the Sumitomo put on the rear, and 2 new Sumitomo's on the front....HOLY S**T, what a difference....Quiet, Smooth, Soft riding...($500 total from local tire dealer, 45 minutes and they cleaned up all the old mess of stuck on tape from wheel weights)
Now for the Brake flush and Oil change.....
Booked time for wrapping. Snow is slowly starting to melt down and I can throw my Audi C5 S6 to summer storage after basic spring maintenance on my Porsche. However, decided to go a bit wild this time, and booked a time from good wrapping place to change the color of my car. I chose Hexis Satin Chrome Turquoise for the color. Will post pictures after it's done, but here's a quick photoshop I did (satin chrome is hard to create in photoshop). We will also try to create this headlight look without any covers using the wraps. Let's see how it turns out, but the guy doing to job said that it should be doable
E: Here's the original arctic silver
The car should look exactly how it was before wrapping. Might need throughout wash though. The wrap has 5 years warranty, so not going to remove it in couple years.
Yea I was thinking same but after editing couple pictures, the silver rims "fight" with tinted headlights and not tinted headlights also seem completely off with that color. However the guy who wraps the car doesn't do the rims, so I'll get to see how it looks with silver rims and can decide what I do with them
Also something a bit darker but not black could work well, matching the tinted headlights better.
Installed a new for me GT3 shift **** that really matches the Momo wheel. Both acquisitions from members here. This is a great site with awesome members.
Good eye. I actually noticed that from the photo and seated the frame. I also adjusted the top of the boot so it covers the bottom of the shift **** better. I was so happy with the initial result I took a quick picture. FWIW the feel of the real aluminum of this **** and rthe way it fits the hand feels better. I realize this may be in my head!
I swapped my champion rg5 wheels with a fellow rennlist member with OEM GT3 wheels. Finally got it installaed and got a 4 wheel alignment. This concludes my �going back to stock� (or as close to it possible) project.
Not today, but yesterday I tracked my car at Road Atlanta. It was great fun. This was my third track day. Now I just need to get more track time, and some coaching, to bring my lap times down. There were only three other cars in the group I went out with, two GT3 RS and a Ferrari 458 GTB. I was able to keep up with them a little while, but eventuality, 296 horsepower and my lack of skill caused me to fall back.
There were many awesome cars there. I would say more than half of the 80+ cars there were Porsches. There were about 30 GT3 RS. I had one if the most underpowered cars. Only a few Spec Miatas had less horsepower, but they are quick.
A pic of a few cars in the Driving Club garage:
Best bang for the buck is a PCA Driver's Ed. Numerous events run up the road from you at Carolinas Motorsports Park, Kershaw. Lots of excellent instructors and a well tuned program.
HIGHLY addictive, for sure.
Last "winter warmup" before taking him to the wrapper and hopefully putting the S6 (on the back) to summer storage. Damn it was fun to cruise around the block, even though I just have summer tires on so had to basically drive 10kmh
Front trunk is open in the pic, had to give him a bit extra juice before starting.
It's strange how much better 996 feels compared to S6, even though S6 is performance car from the same era and has a bit more power (also of course weights more and has automatic transmission eating up the 0-100 time).
Well, I think that there's a reason why Porsche is Porsche
Today was fun - the weather was nice (but chilly) so pulled the hardtop off hoping for warmer weather soon. My daughter is home from college this week and wanted to go for a ride with the top down. In her winter parka! This was my first drive with the top down - can�t believe how nice these are opened up. Since I bought the car in December I had never had the top down except to make sure that it worked properly.
Daryll
Perfect, glad you are extending your passion to your family! Hey, great roads around there. We are getting ready for our annual trip to Marietta in a few weeks. Your area is an absolute dream for road trips! Enjoy!
Nice. I was getting in the car today and my 8 year old daughter asked me if I was going to put the roof down.
I said, I wasn't planning on it. She said, "I do wish you would!"
Thank you Ratchet! You are correct - there are some amazing roads between Central Ohio and the Ohio River. I�m looking forward to driving on some of them soon. Finally the weather is starting to improve! Have a great drive!
Daryll
Drove about an hour east to Lake James to check my boat (excuse). Happy to say it survived the winter in fine shape, will put it in the water for the season in a couple of weeks. Then drove home, put the car on the lift and changed the trans oil, put in Liquimoly 75w-90. This. Is the first time I’ve used that product and was surprised at how clear it was. Not sure what was in there previously. Overall it was an easy job, but managed to spill some on the floor anyway.
Picked car up from Indy, had the following installed... FF 997 Shifter (thanks to Adrian and Luka), FF motor mounts, EPS rear tuning fork arms. Already have the FF trans inserts. Absolutely love the FF combination of parts for great shift feeling and impeccable road feeling. Can�t wait to try this out on the track.
FF 997 shifter
EPS rear suspension arms
I took my car out for the first time this year and installed my Machine Revival steering wheel. I fall in love with this car again every year in spring.
Got it back from the shop last week after getting the M030 kit put on to replace the 20 year old base parts. Finally got to take it out on some fun roads with the top down and it's like a brand new car to me. Except now there's an intermittent squeak from the passenger side that goes up with wheel speed. I'm hoping it's just a rock caught in the caliper or something and not a wheel bearing. Haven't had a chance to get it on jack stands to inspect yet.
Other than the squeak how do you like the M030? I’m looking to order it soon to install in my 2002 cab. Did you replace anything else besides that which came with the kit?
So far the RoW M030 is fantastic. Of course I'm comparing it to the worn out suspension I bought the car with. I've only had about an hour in the car since I brought it home, it's definitely stiffer but not near as bouncy as the parts that came off. Whole car feels more planted and the nose isn't floaty anymore in spirited turns. Also no more creaks when going over bumps. The kit was shocks, springs, sway bars, and the bushings for the sway bars. The indy also replaced bump stops, one front strut mount, both front strut bearings, some dust boots, both front strut bellows, and both front sway bar links. The only thing I have paperwork for being replaced by any previous owner is the front control arms about 4000 miles ago. Ended up being $1700 for everything besides the kit, which I bought from carnewal.com
This weekend I got my car out, washed and waxed her. I picked her up this winter and unfortunately it was too cold in January to wash and wax properly.
Today I changed the oil & filter and dropped the oil pan while I was at it. I’ve only had my C4S for 2 months and just started driving it this weekend. The oil was still pretty clean. Happy to report that the filter didn’t have any debris in it nor did the pan. Magnetic drain plug had thin paste on it.
I’ll be changing the oil again this fall when I put her away.
Installed headlight covers on my 2004 Porsche C4S Cab. Replaced IMS Bearing with LN part. Good excuse to cruise the coastline of my hometown of Carmel-by-the-Sea CA.
Considering selling my 32k mi two owner 996 AE in mint condition. Full, four piece luggage set, PSS10s, GT3 lowering spec and alignment, 6GT3 wheels, punkin delete, clean oil reports (BlackStone) 5 years running, annual oil change from new, with service records to confirm. WP perventively with LowT, coils, sparkies, Fisters of course. Car is amazing. All original part kept.
My neighbor is selling his 997TT and he gave me first dibbs. I have four hobby cars and I want to stay married.
So, I took her off the lift and went for a drive. One of my all time favorite cars. Hard decision.
Cancelled my insurance on my 996. Weather continues in the high 30’s. I am sure summer has been cancelled. Since I am in Canada, must be related to brexit......
usually by by now we have had a few days in the high 50’s. Really want to wash my car and drive it.
Slowly coming together
The front bumper was harder to to properly than they expected, so it's going to be there until monday. After seeing this pic, I'm wondering if I should just leave the headlights as they are. They work well with this color without the tint as well.
Installed Koni Sports, Eibach springs, new bumpstops, and mounts.
96k on the old dampers fronts were blown, but the rears still had some resistance to them.
A little lower stance and a much firmer ride.
I always liked the idea of a Koni based suspension. Just never got around to it except a 914 years ago. Look forward to hearing what you think of the setup after a couple of weeks.
I went to Tire Rack and added up the cost of the shocks plus springs. They were just a couple of hundred dollars less that the full Euro M030 suspension at Suncoast. Any other particular reason to go with individual components?
I don�t use the Koni�s anymore, but one advantage when I did was for easy adjustability. With the M030, you have fixed dampening, for about the same money you can pick up the adjustable Konis. I used them when I only had one car and wanted to quickly adjust from a street setting to a firmer setup for autocross.
Yes, completely agree with your reasoning.
But I did not see any mention of track or AX, so assumed street use. My thought was the M030 has matched shock valve rates with the springs, and matched sway bars. That said, I loved PSS9’s on my 1999 and would go that route again for dual use.
No criticism here, just wanting to thoughts behind purchase.
Yup, as my kids say �same�. I have the PSS10 on my 2000 and I think it is an ideal setup for dual use, with no discernible compromises. Then again, I am a huge Bilstein fan from a long history of successful use, so am biased.
It is my understanding is that a Euro M030 will fall somewhere between a stock suspension and PSS9/10's, probably a tad closer to the PSS setup. I had PSS9's on my '99 and they were great in a combo street / DE car.
FWIW, I plan on the M030 route for my AE after I get the 986S sold. But, if I again found a near perfect used PSS at a great price, I would not hesitate to install them as well.
Remember, your 40AE already has M030, just not ROW M030 ride height.
The package sold by Sunsports is probably close enough to what was originally sold on the ROW 40AE but it's not exact. I've done all the number searching from the US and ROW parts catalogs for the 40AE US, 40AE ROW vs. US and ROW M030 (non 40AE). They are all a little different. But like I said, an ROW M030 kit is probably so close to AE ROW M030 that it's not worth trying to make it exact.
Wednesday I took my car out for the first time since I purchased it in January. Did an alignment on it and gave it a look over, decided I couldn't wait on the rear tires, it needed them. Thursday I took the car for a 15 minute drive, parked it for an hour, and it wouldn't start. Cranked fine but not so much as a sputter. I noted the fuel pump primed but the tach wasn't moving when cranking. Had the car dropped at my shop a couple hours later via tow truck and the car started and ran just fine. So today I pulled the car in and replaced the crankshaft position sensor, mounted a new set of rear tires up, and pulled the front bumper and replaced the drivers A/C condenser as it was leaking. I also cleaned the radiator while it was apart and also pulled the passenger side condenser and cleaned that radiator as well. Vacuumed the A/C system and charged it. A/C is working excellent now. Drove the car twice letting it sit and heat soak like I had yesterday and it fired right back up so I am hoping the crank sensor has cured that issue.
Me too with H&R springs! Just picked up from storage, had the springs installed, newly powder coated wheels, w/ 3mm Fr/8mm Rr spacers. Not satisfied with the stance (spacers), need more wide!
Bad news: found mouse turds in frunk of coupe after garage storage during winter
Good news: after disassembly of frunk parts, headlights, etc., no wiring damaged, about 40 turds total (not much?)
Re-assembly planned for tomorrow, then back on road...
15mm f/r
I have a set (4) 15mm spacers w/proper length lug bolts for sale. Bolts are silver though.
I think I could have went 17mm in the back with h&r springs and b6 struts.
Picked it up from service dept at dealer. New LN IMS bearing, new clutch and flywheel, front half Xpel film protection. Ready for its (and my) first track days next weekend.
Best case: Little guy jumped in my stuff in the garage at mid-ohio and stayed a short time during the ride back to Michigan
Worst case: There is an opening somewhere that will require hours of disassembly
Plan: Read through the RL threads and prepare moth ***** and other C/Ms for the coming winter
Oil change today. Switched to DT-40 and installed the LN Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter. Piece of cake...except for me spilling oil everwhere. Also took a sample to send off to SPEEDiagnostics.
Mounted a set of Victor Equipment "Zehn" wheels and tires I found on Craigslist locally for a great price. I'll use these while I have my GT3 wheels refinished (see post #1168).
Replaced the radiator fan on the drivers side. The old one only worked at the high setting so I could have just soldered in a new resistor, but the whole fan assembly was only ~$30 more than just the resistor so I figured why not. Didn't want the cooling of the engine to depend on my mediocre at best soldering skills.
Went ahead and removed the bumper and cleaned the radiators.
Before and after of the radiators and the AC condensers.
Before
After
Quite a bit of crap, dirt, buildup that was removed and found drivers fan not working on low.
Time to troubleshoot that tomorrow. May also do an oil change and swap the fuel filter while it's up in the air.
Finally got the chance to put a few miles on after our winter.
Re 'Springed' with H&R. Noticed rear was sitting lowere than last year. Apparently po had a coupe set installed instead of cabrio/targa.🙃
New Gt3 wheels w/MPSC2's.
Momo wheel installed. Have to figure out why my blinkers aren't cancelling...annoying.
Ergonomics of new steering wheel and suspension/tire combo transformed driving experience. Cup lip spoiler noticeable at speed too.😎
[QUOTE=TechSavvySam;15754001]Topped the tank with no-ethanol and washed the Georgia pollen off to get ready for my first Peachstate PCA tour tomorrow.
[/
What octane is your non E in Georgia?
Just had a few minutes before some family activities...
Good news: Successfully installed the 15mm rear spacers, 8mm front spacers. Rears are great, maybe more wide needed in front.
Bad news: Looks to be a coolant leak (pics attached). Resevoir in engine bay is visibly empty. Based on my mechanical abilities, I think there are 2 options:
Option 1: Get it towed to my trusty Indy
Option 2: Fill the coolant back up and drive to my trusty Indy
Please let me know your opinion. Thanks!
Quick jack works great. Did an oil change and made minor adjustment with my ride hide. Little disappointing that I only put 2k miles from my last oil change but it has been 7 months and it�s starting to warm up here LV, NV so went ahead and changed the oil anyways. All looks good! Took her for a quick shakedown and she runs like a dream!!!
Well, I put in distilled water into the coolant reservoir of the cabriolet and dropped it off at the repair shop. No drama luckily.
As for the coupe, I woke up at the crack of dawn, headed out the best local roads we have (in Scott @ Team Harco’s back yard). Joined a buddy and ran through Hell, Mi several times. Interesting, on the way there, a 928 passed me and we ran up to 120 on the highway. Very sparse at 7:30am Sunday. Had a blast!
The majority is 87 (which is what I use for my lawn equipment) but I found 90 at a Shell 5 miles from my house.
Looking on PurceGas app, I don't see anything higher than 90, although the app doesn't have a way to search by octane.
Oh, Hell! The best roads over there are unpaved.
Great shot, by the way. ^^
I put on a winter rally each year. For probably the past 10 years, we "transit" through Hell. There are some good paved roads too. But sometimes the unpaved roads are smoother...
As far as what I did today, I swapped parking spots in advance of taking Speedy to work tomorrow.
Found a big trail of silt that spilled out of the wheels all the way through the garage. Yesterday, I took several brisk laps of our backyard RallyCross track.
Coolant level and oil level both holding steady. Knock on wood...
I hold it on the second Saturday in January, each year. Start and finish, at Aubree's Pizzeria, in South Lyon. Remind me as we get closer, and I can provide you with some good places to observe.
Made it safely to work.
New windshield wiper area plastic, new grill plastic, black stone guards and some new floor mats. lots of little fun things to do on this car. This 996 is my new daily driver and I love the manual in it. My 991.1 C2S has the PDK. I have to say, I really like the old 996 a LOT.
.
Picked up my 40AE from the shop, where it got a full clear bra (full bumper, front fenders, hood and mirrors). They had problems with their computer models for the turbo style front nose...
I just took a quick look at the Porsche parts catalogs:
US front bumper cover on the 40AE is part "996 505 111 22"
US front bumper cover on the C4S is part "996 505 311 05"
US front bumper cover on the 996 Turbo is "996 505 311 05" as well
So technically the front bumper cover is a different part. Not sure why, nor if the exterior dimensions are different or it's just some fastener hole or what is going on.
Not sure if it's actually different or their model was wrong. In any event it took them some extra time because they screwed up some of the material and had to rush order more to get the job done.
So today I swapped the Koni sports for Koni actives and replaced all control arms, toe links, and tie rods.
The wife did not like the Koni sports at all and were at bit harsh to me for high speed damping ( I'm not as young as I remember myself to be.).
PM me if anyone is looking for Koni sports with less than 200 miles on them and or Stainless muffler deletes.
The previous owner gorilla glued some hideous silver gauge bezels on my car and then they fell off. I sanded and painted them flat black and siliconed them on. Not perfect but a huge improvement from how it was.
I was wondering about this also. I like the silver -- breaks up the interior a bit since there is often a lot of one color around the dash area. The rings I like best have the paint removed and are finely sanded to a brushed aluminum look. It takes a bit of work, but brushed aluminum looks better than silver paint in my opinion.
Very cool. I prefer the brushed/matte aluminum finish in these thin rings to painted silver, but can't quite decide whether I like the fatter glue-on aluminum rings or the smaller snap-on rings. Would be great to see a pic of them side-by-side. Definitely the snap-on ones are cleaner and easier to mount (and remove).
Busy week.
Replaced the alternator (found a critter's nest behind it)
Replaced the belt
Installed a center A/C vent with Silver slats (got a good price)
Washed it today and drove it with the top down.
[QUOTE=85eurocarrera;15755807]
Here you go:
Finally a nice sunny and comfy 78 degrees this morning and decided take her out and run my errands. She ran great!!!
Bumper and heat shields off for Fister install, found damaged heat shield from previous incident (before my time).
new heat shield on the way, now debating ordering coils, plugs and tubes/o-rings �while im in there�
ROW M030 looking clean
Full exterior detail. Clay bar, buff, polish, waxed. Took rim's off and thoroughly cleaned them. Cleaned the brake calipers as best as I could to make them red again.
Garage lighting at night...oh well
Also adjusted the parking brake. It wasnt holding as well as I like. Now it's nice and strong again.
And installed the new door lights with Porsche logo
Damn garage lighting lol
Maybe this week will be the interior.
Bumper off cleaned the radiators!
Make sure you separate the two lots of debris in between them!
Getting new tires and alignment this week. Wheel liner is broken ordered new one...
I installed those! I think they are a fun addition to the car.
Currently working on adding interior lights that I can change the colour of with the touch of a button. Should have it done in a week or so when my led lights I ordered come in.
I never want to hear "while you're in there" again. I needed a new driver side rear tire from road debris damage. But I might as well replace all 4 while I'm at it. I read good things about Michelin Pilot Sport 4 s, so sure. And with the wheels off, there's a rear strut that needs attention; best to replace both. I guess I ought to address those LCA's with their 20 year old bushings. And an alignment is a good idea too.
I liked the handling before all this. I hope to love it after.
As you can see the originals (they had a 993 part number) aren't too bad, but found a deal on them. I'm using the softest bushings now but may move to the blue middle hardness bushing.
aftermarket trim for center console is made by Metra. Just google and hopefully you find what you need. I have two pieces, one surrounding the alpine screen and the other forms the pocket and area surrounding the climate unit which was moved to lowest position.
See picture
curious what brand you elected to go with, if there�s any warranty (how long) and how much did they charged you. PM if you don�t wanna put down figures here.
I just got my car detailed today and tomorrow, I�m scheduled to drop of my car and they will install paint protection film (is this the same as clear bra?).
Took my 996 to Marietta, Ohio and completed our yearly drive. Many great roads, my favorites were 26 and 555. Good friends and great cars. Sorry in advance for the non P-car content. Picked up a screw in my front tire in the hotel parking lot. My buddy had a tire repair kit, worked great and held for the weekend.
Pulled my calipers, bead blasted them, primed them, painted them with VHT high temp red, put on new decals, clear coated them, and baked them for an hour. Pretty pleased with the results for a rattle can job and it looks way better than what I had. Also gave me a good opportunity to flush my brake fluid with some Wilwood DOT 4 EXP 600 plus brake fluid.
Clear coat was pretty well shot
I figured I couldn't make them look any worse
After I sprayed the color and laid on the decal
Finished caliper back on the car
Steam cleaned the wheels while they were off and got the brake dust off inside and out.
Yes, I should have just done that first but I was stubborn and based on the Pelican Tech article thought I could get away without (big mistake) but sure made it difficult to get under the car to work from the bottom. I had to be a Houdini contortionist at times.
I am feeling it today as my body hurts in place's I haven't felt in awhile.
Also, I have a trigger finger (middle) that locks up if I grip to tight. Then I have to stop and use my other hand to open my finger again...This really slows me down.
The last manifold bolt sits under part of the AOS so a socket won't fit. Then there's the
wire harness
coolant lines tucked up tight with very little room between the engine and fender wall.
A short box wrench was my only option and I could only turn it 1/16" at a time lift and reposition with the wrench held with my middle finger and thumb and having a coolant line between my palm and wrench with no site line to see what I was doing, working with my left hand dropping the wrench multiple times and having to stop and crawl under the car to get it. Really takes a lot of coordination with the hands/fingers.
A lift would help save so much time too!
I think I could do it all in five now.
Picked up my car from Classic 9 Interiors. Very happy with the leather/alcantara materials they recommended. They recovered the seats, replaced some foam and cleaned the seat tracks. I also got a tour of both shops (seats, interior and IP). They are not new to RL, just so great to work with a local company that knows how to treat P cars.
PO used some type of improper cleaner and ruined the leather.
Old leather was hard and cracked.
New seat covering
Details
[QUOTE=Ratchet1025;15814945]Picked up my car from Classic 9 Interiors. Very happy with the leather/alcantara materials they recommended. They recovered the seats, replaced some foam and cleaned the seat tracks. I also got a tour of both shops (seats, interior and IP). They are not new to RL, just so great to work with a local company that knows how to treat P cars.
PO used some type of improper cleaner and ruined the leather.
Old leather was hard and cracked.
New seat covering
Details
[
/QUOTE]
Seat came out nice!
I need to do mine, may I ask how much it all cost?
That pretty much cinches it, I think I'll pay someone to replace my AOS.
I've been covered up with work lately working late hours and going in on my days off.
I have a workbench filled with boxes of parts I want to install and she mentioned them the other day.
I mentioned the AOS install would take the longest time(I estimated 5-6 hours) and she said, "pay someone else please and spend time with me and the kids."
So I'll do the Fabspeed X-pipe and headers, and O2 sensors, and oil change, and Function First transmission mount inserts, and RSS underdrive pulley, and visor mirror repair, and Momo Steering wheel...and leave the AOS to someone else.
Luckily I haven't purchased an AOS yet, so I won't be tempted!
[QUOTE=808Bill;15816170]
Howdy, it was 2800 total. I think it was 2400 if you just want them to ship you the covers. You can pick any mix of colors, and materials. I wanted something cooler than black leather, they suggested Alcantara. I expect these to hold up for another 15+ years.
Cloth (Alcantra) is the way to go, especially anywhere in the HOT climate...South FL, CA...etc...Leather is very nice BUT sweating of your back on leather is not great.....and, the cloth seats will hold you in place much better......
Well was driving the Porsche to find a spline lug nut socket for my Chevy SS because the guy who repaired 2 bent wheels (nice guy who did a great job) forgot to put mine back in the car and I was replacing the brakes and that shop couldn�t get the wheels off. So I was going to Advance Auto near me when this happened. The guy who did it was a straight guy p guy. Admitted fault and his insurance company is going to pay for the repair. I have an awesome shop who will do the work. But what a pain in the Life happens and that�s my thinking. No one hurt and we�ll fix the car.
Thanks. They are Victor Equipment Innsbruck wheels. They are Size: 19 X 8.5" front & 19 X 11" rear. Finish: Black Matte. The offsets are really for the 996 Turbo but they look great on the narrow body and don�t rub.
Picked up my car from the shop and cleaned it up nice....Getting it ready for first track day May 17. Last two got rained out. I know many don't like speed yellow but I just can't get enough of my car.
Washed and waxed mine this weekend. I haven't taken it out of the garage since I finished waxing it, but I think it looks pretty good. I think I'm gonna switch out the scuffed SportDesigns that are on it for the freshly polished Fuchs knock-offs.
Thanks Guys...its still my favorite car...it is just so much fun to drive...and its one of the last where you are still pretty much 100% driving (accept maybe for ABS)
I haven't put them back on after the cleaning, but here is from a while back. I think I need to get some center caps in black to match and I need to get the wheels on and some pictures in the sunlight, maybe with some mountains in the background.
As I posted above a few pages ago, I replaced my engine mounts with OEM. Prior to the swap, the gap between the bumper fascia and the pipes looked like this:
Now, it�s not much (if any) different. The left side has a 1.5 in. gap and the right side is 1 in.
My previous Carrera really sucked them up tight to the chrome trim. Possibilities?
Thanks in advance as always.
TC
I like it. My version will include larger rivets and washers to back-up the mesh. Your mesh may push past the rivet heads with debris impact. If you live in a mild environment - your DIY looks excellent!
Thanks, cds. The only thing I could think of is maybe I didn�t have the nut in the slot on the bottom side. Everything feels right so I�ll check the exhaust clamps.
TC
Yes, I count my blessings every day. I'm really enjoying retirement, and hope to enjoy driving my cars to my last day.
I've been living my life in line with the Hunter S. Thompson quote below.
Gil
Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming... "Wow! What a Ride!"
Hunter S. Thompson
What car do you like driving better at the track? How do they compare?
I dropped my car off today to get the major issues addressed. IMS, RMS, AOS, clutch and few odds and ends. It will nice having some peace of mind after this.
There is nothing like a Ferrari on the track (this is my fourth over 20+ years). This is my fifth Porsche, and I loved them all especially my current C4S. Great fun to drive on the road and track. But the sound of the Ferrari engine right behind me winding up to 9000 rpm and the mid-engine balance of the car is amazing on a road track with elevation changes (the only car that came close in sound is my Lamborghini Miura's V-12). The Porsche is quick, but the Ferrari is scary fast. And with large diameter carbon ceramic brakes, you can take the Ferrari deep into every turn with confidence you can get the car slowed quickly to set up the next section of track. I have driven my Ferraris on several tracks across the U.S. (Indianapolis in the Formula One configuration when they were still running the US Grand Prix there, Watkins Glen, VIR, Sears Point, Thunderhill, etc.), and every track is a joy with these cars. Once you learn "the line" of a given track, it is like a smooth dance as you traverse the course.
You are smart to do the updates you did on your Porsche. I similarly had the IMS bearing replaced less than a week after I bought it, and it does give piece of mind. My 2004 C4S only has 21K miles on it so the other parts including the clutch were fine (my indie mechanic who has decades of Porsche experience said if it ain't broke don't fix it for those other bits). I wind up my C4S at every opportunity, and I know the engine can take it. I had a 996.1 Carrera 4 previously that I also had the IMS done, and it gave me years of reliable experience, and this current 996.2 C4S is behaving the same way. The German engineering in these cars (except for the IMS bearing) is bullet proof from my experience; just do regular PM service (oil change, etc).
I drove Indy's Formula One Track configuration just days after Michael Schumacher won the F1 race for Ferrari. They never let civilians drive on that track, but that year the Ferrari Club got unprecedented access to Indy by holding it's annual International Meet there. Attached is a photo I took of Michael at an interview before the race, and also a photo I took of Ferrari's timing screen where you can see Schumacher was at the top of the order. I attached a photo of my wife and I on the Indy Podium that Schumacher got showered with champagne on. I happened to get autographs of Mario and Michael Andretti that week. While we're on the topic of racing, I threw in a photo of me with Phil Hill, one of my racing heros and America's Formula One Champion.
Gil
Gil
Thanks, we just picked it up in March. It spent most of its life in CA and TX and now is cruising the mountains in CO. My first Porsche, 85.5 944, had real fuchs and I grew up with almost all 911s wearing them so I'm kinda partial to them. Here's a picture after I washed and waxed the car and wheels. If the rain holds off tomorrow I'll get to drive it.
I added 20 more valves.
But, but, that doesn't work with six cylinders; one might think.
And that would be true.
The head off one of my Audis needs to get dropped off at my engine shop. Other than that - I've been driving Speedy everyday, to work, for the last three weeks. I think I'll keep it.
Finally finished my AOS install...What a pain in the butt!
I did find the two missing sockets that I dropped during the engine install but, I knocked off the one way check (black n white) valve and it fell into the abyss
LOL!!
I installed this Bluetooth gadget on my Becker radio so I can BT stream music over the AUX source. The nice things about this solution is that you preserve the look of the old Becker radio and that you don�t have to tap any wires or anything. The install went pretty smoothly despite the somewhat dodgy instructions. Plays pretty well so far, but we will have to see.
Scott, thank you for introducing us to Speedy, In the early days, we were rooting for Speedy to stay in the stable. However, now Speedy is a full fledged RL member. Speedy is strong and trustworthy and ready for action (whatever that may bring)!
Today was get the Seattle Gundo Hack done. I've been going back and forth between sending out for the Fister set or go inexpensive and see how I like it. I frickin love it. Took the car to a good 'ol hole in the wall muffler shop that has been in the Des Moines (WA) area for 20 + years, explained what I wanted, showed a few pics of ones already done and left the car. Phone rang 6 hours later and voila, I got the Hack and it sounds perfect to me at all ranges. $240 total and I didn't have to mess with soaking nuts and bolts and fighting to get it apart, let alone put it back together where they actually matched hanging heights, lol.
Sorry, no pics. I didn't see the need since they are all over the place anyways and not really a pretty mod to show IMO. BTW: He used 1 1/2" pipe.
Some day I'll do the whole exhaust, cat system when $$$$ allow, but for now this rocks my boat.
Has anyone found a good shop near Chicago. I have heard of Fishers, Midwest(pricey ) and just called about German Auto repair. I need to replace a top, get a gundo/Fister exhaust and swap out the suspension for a coil over set up? Any thoughts or someone to help me with the projects.
Thanks Randy.
I had my doubts at times. I did my best to mess things up too. The AOS debacle and subsequent "fix" taught me some lessons.
The fact that I had to press him into duty a bit earlier than I had planned was also a concern. So far, I have not been disappointed.
Drained the oil, collected a sample and dropped the sump plate yesterday. Will do some internal inspection today. So far, all looks good.
Fvd Brombacher deep sump baffled oil pan, new plugs and plug tubes, rolled fenders, removed front plate, and added new BBS CH-R wheels.
New Schnell SS
Fender roller
Sitting pretty
Cribbing to help get under
Plugs and tubes changed
LED third brake light
New sways and oil pan
Gt3 brake ducting as well.
Love the look of CHs, might be my personal favorite wheel. I had a set on my VW R32. It seems like they only make them in 19s though and I don't wanna go bigger than 18s.
Left has been wiped clean. Right is as found. After 3500 miles, barely any buildup.
Wiped into the paper towel. Nothing nefarious that I could see.
Oil change. First since going to spin on adapter and mag plug. Collected oil sample. Not sure if I will send out or not. I guess after almost 7 years owning the car not sure if I was to head down that rabbit hole.
Everything looks incredible! Looks like the fender roller did the trick. Those wheels look like they were made
for the car. Love your garage setup too!
No Scenic pictures yet, Finally able to get it moving now that the fenders are rolled. Hope to get a few this week / weekend if the weather ever breaks. Currently 40 Degrees Fahrenheit and Pouring.
Thank you for all the kind words everyone!
Brake job on the rear axle with new Brembo rotors (cheap from Rockauto), Hawk HP+ pads and new sensors. Also put in new motor mounts but the tips are still crooked so I need to figure out how to adjust them, the clamps are all rusty so that should be fun.
Finally avoided the rain and got to the track. New tires and suspension bits worked fantastic! New pavement at Waterford Hills felt great and much faster.
LN IMSB preferred installer appointment set.
After five years of blissful ownership of my 2004 996AE, perfect condition, 33k miles, CA car from new, PSS10s, GT3 ride height, aggressive street alignment spec, Euro GT3 seats, GT3 wheels, preventative coil packs, sparkies, water plump, annual oil change from new, fully documented including annual (5 years) blackstone reports, I have decided to spend the money for peace of mind. I have annual cam deviation checked, Mag plug, cut open and inspect oil filter, and blackstone oil reports. All perfect, no issues.
But still, for 3k I have finally secum to the hype and fear.
I guess the main reason for my decision is the X51 package car, LDS, perfect spec and set up is, well, worth protecting. My dreams of a blown IMSB and a forced 4.0L build now gone....
Hergesheimer Lake Forest CA
Family run, Local PCA supporters, great long term reputation and experts in 996 and 997 cars.
I use Sleepers Speed Shop in Costa Mesa for my Aircooled cars and Mark at Hergesheimer for water cooled stuff.
Pictures to follow.
June 4th appointment.
Thanks. I was asking because I'm thinking about doing the Solution and the one local Indie that was certified, was only certified for the the regular bearing when I checked a year ago. I just checked again and they are now certified for the Solution too. I just hit two years of ownership and have been able to do all the work so far myself but the Solution is something I have no desire to attempt. The PO used this shop and they know the car so I will talk to them if I decide to go ahead.
Yes.
I have done my annual oil changes, preventive coils, sparkplugs, wp, coolant, Trans fluid, brakes and Fisters, but for IMSB figured the preferred installer premium was/is the way to go.
I am not a fan of the solution. Dont like the external oil line. LN bearing is more than enough for me.
Sweet! What group sanctioned the track event? PCA, or other? Edit: never mind. I found this thing - the world wide web? Seems you can look up all kinds of things...
You should visit Thistle Hill this Saturday. The RallyCross will go off - rain or shine.
It's super high strength braided steel line. Plus, it's tucked away from anything that could snag it. Personally, it's one of the beauties of the IMS Solution.
I think autox is as much track time as they'll see. After a couple recent threads where folks have had their engines pop on the track despite taking all the proper precautions, I'm getting cold feet on the idea of track days. A $15k engine rebuild is not in the budget at the moment.
Picked up my car today after a week at the shop. LN IMS bearing, RMS, AOS, clutch and flywheel done. Shop said the clutch looked pretty beat so it was good that I replaced it, the new one feels great. Looking forward to the spring, summer and taking the hard top off.
Yes, it was a RSR (rally sport region) PCA event, feel free to drop in, good group, lots of fun cars. Their signature event is the weekend of 6/15 at Grattan. Please share videos of the RallyCross!
Found this to the right of the battery compartment in the frunk. Old Clifford security. Worried about removing and having the car be immobilized somehow!
Picked her from the wrapper. Had to change the wrap, since the first one had manufacturing defect. Basically the "matte layer" on top of the chrome was delaminating from 2 mattechrome cars that the wrapper did before my car. We decided together that it's better to not test our luck, and swapped the color to more traditional Avery Dennison Pearl Dark Green. Also tinted every window.
And here's the TODO list with photoshop.
Black rims and tinted headlights. I originally decided that I'd not tint the headlights, but now that I got the car, I feel that it's still a good idea to do..
E: Couple extra pics:
Thanks! Yea everything is wrapped (except insides of frunk and engine lid
) I'll add couple extra photos to the original post. Wrapper said that the spoiler alone took almost 2 days to get right
If someone else thinks about doing it, don't cheap out especially if your cas has aerokit. If the wrapper uses knife instead of knifeless cutting tape, you will get your spoiler ruined.
I paid ~3700� for the wrap. However I live in Finland where everything is expensive (except milk
😅
), so I think that you can't compare it to your country. For example the cheapest 996:es cost ~25k� and most expensive low mileage/well maintained manual ones are +40k�. The cheapest wrap places promised to wrap my car for ~1500�, but I watched couple youtube videos and decided that it's good idea to pay some extra.This guy I chose said that with cheapest wrapping material available, he'd be able to do it for 2800�.
My country is expensive too! Milk can get up to $7 a half gallon.
Very nice job on the wrap. Can you post pics of the inside where the wrap ends...Just curious.
I like the silver but a gun-metal grey might look better than black.
Looks awesome overall. I'm not generally a fan of black wheels, or tinted windows, or darkened headlights, but these seem like a "must do" on your car -- that combo in photoshop looks
great
!
peterp - that's great work.
If I post a picture of my car, can you fix it too?
I'll wait until tomorrow to get a good picture of it covered in dirt and dust. It's only part-way there after today. I laid out a RallyCross course with it...
Thanks Scott!!!!
There's no question I'm several realms beyond awesome!!
Except, sad to say, it's not my work
. Just quoted JjyKs's photoshopping. I did quote it rather well though
Purchased my 2003 4s coupe on St. Pat�s day with 21800 miles. New IMS/clutch/flywheel/Xpel/Alpine touchscreen/K40. Loving every second. Fixing window regulator next week and getting professional detailing to kick off the summer. I feel like I�ve saved this car�s soul. It�s a shame when they don�t get driven. And his name is Manuell! (long story)
Yes you did.
How do you know this?
We're here. Tell us all about Manuell. What a great find.
As for me, I laid out a RallyCross course with Speedy over the last two days. So you could say; I got dirty, and had fun doing so.
The course I laid out yesterday was excellent - if I say so myself.
We had two hours of steady rain this morning. The course had to be altered in a big way. Too bad. We still made the best of it...
Taught my daughter how to drive a manual transmission car in the 996.2 this morning. She did great! How many kids can say they learned to drive stick shift in a 911.
I keep telling my wife she should give my car a shot but she is terrified. I started teaching her stick in my 95 Ranger and she always wants to go out in that.
Finally installed my Xmas present this evening. An absolute PITA to get under the dash. However I did get it in and do like the jump in the throttle in D mode. A noticeable difference in a positive way. Highly recommended.
I have multiple sets of rally tires. Unfortunately, even if I could find 17" tires, they would be outrageously priced. Will have to find some decent 17" winter tires to fit the bill. Might even groove them to work better in mud.
I taught my daughter also this past year! My oldest son was taught by a friend but when he drove my car he had a blast but said he would end up killing himself in it.... He drives a SAAB. My next 2 still have not learned and my youngest is learning now, Has a tough time with the clutch and stalls a lot getting nervous on clutch wear now...
My daughter did great with the clutch, but even if it had gone badly, I figure you only get one memorable first time, which is kind of priceless. I can easily replace a clutch, but I'll never re-live a first.
So update on this. It works fine when the car isn't running, but there is a high pitched whine that increases with the revs when the car is running. Perhaps interference with the alternator -- they weren't certain. They wanted me to purchase an additional noise filter but I took a pass.
i had the LN retro fit installed by Porsche dealer last month. did the clutch/flywheel at same time but the IMSB parts/install was $2350 if my memory serves me correctly, dont have the invoice in front of me this second to double-check but think that's accurate.
I checked with multiple places and the cost was always around $3000 to $3200 parts and labor to do the IMS. I put in the LN pro bearing. It cost extra, but I also did the 65K service (spark plugs), changed the water pump and put in a low temperature thermostat and also swapped out the AOS while I was there. The AOS also looked fine, but its only a $100 part so it seemed sensible to put in a new one. I had to work the phones a bit, but I got a good discount on all the other work because the engine was out for the IMS bearing replacement (I have a tip).
Good luck.
Mine getting installed next week. 2,850.00 with Dual Row, LN and oil filter change.
They want another 1,300.00 just to do the AOS so I am still debating. Shops said IMSB job doesnt help access so no labor help.
WIth MT cars they dont drop the engine so I guess thats why AOS is so much more.
For what its worth on my 99 for the IMS, RMS, AOS, clutch and flywheel it was 4300 with tax. It doesn't look like much extra labor for the AOS and the clutch and flywheel were parts only. I believe they quoted me around the same as you for just the IMS/RMS.
Yeah you pretty much always need a ground loop filter on any aux input powered by the car. Quality ones will already have it built in. You can get them pretty cheap with the headphone type plug but since this thing plugs directly into the radio plug I think it'd be more expensive.
Here's the one I have. It works perfect for music. I don't use the phone/mic feature so I can't comment on that.
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Hands-Free-Isolator/dp/B0739RGDFJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bluetooth+car+adapter+mpow&qid=1558553239&s=gateway&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Hands-Free-Isolator/dp/B0739RGDFJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bluetooth+car+adapter+mpow&qid=1558553239&s=gateway&sr=8-4
I tap off this connector for switched power since the cig lighter is always hot:
https://www.renntech.org/topic/1122-...one-connector/
I never really thought about that, since I did mine with the clutch replacement. Still, 8 hours to to the AOS even without dropping the engine seems like a lot. I have read DIY's on this forum who spent 8 hours the time they did it (and it was a total pain in the a**) but they said they could do it in half the time the next time.
That's BS. Every shop I've talked to says that when you drop the tranny for an IMS job, it's the best time to do the AOS because of it's proximity. It's only a $100 part and I would imagine it would only add 2 hrs max with an IMS job.
I guess it depends on your location and labor rate. I posted above that my same job was $4300 and included AOS. I had another quote closer to $5k as well.
Yes.
My thought also.
Strange. I think the lady that does the estimates doesnt have a way to price the labor when combined with trans already out. It looks like the AOS estimate is seperate.
Strange.
Ill call the owner.
Thanks.
It's quotes like this that make me so happy I learned how to turn a wrench. I don't think I could justify having a 911 if I had 4-5K maintenance bills...
That seems a little high to me unless you are getting the IMS solution. I had basically this same service done in January at a shop in the Chicago area for around $3,000 using the regular LN bearing kit, not the "solution". My flywheel was fine so they did not do anything to it. Had a few other things done (brake fluid flush) while they were in there. They did not replace the AOS - if your job includes that it may be closer to being OK. But in general seems high. A number of people posting on BAT lately have been quoted in the $2,500 range for the LN bearing and a clutch job - but I'm not sure if those are real or not.
Daryll
OK, just pulled my bills. The dealer I bought the car from passed through his parts discount to me so that helped save a little money:
Clutch Kit $403.80
LNE Bearing Kit $588.63
RMS $11.35
Labor $2,100
The labor also included replacing the front sway bar links - parts were $54.00.
I paid for the oil service separately:
Total $764.64 includes parts and labor for oil change, engine air filter, cabin air filter, brake fluid flush and transmission fluid change. The only thing that you are quoted that I did not have done was the flywheel resurface.
Not sure where you live, the work above was done at a shop in suburban Chicago area (Downer's Grove, IL)
Daryll
I'll throw out what the PO paid for the work on my car but keep in mind this was done in July of 2015. I'm sure prices have gone up
There were some miscellaneous clamps, clips, seals & gaskets that I didn't bother to list.
LN Engineering spin on oil filter kit
Napa Gold oil filter
19 pints of Total 5W40 oil
LN IMS double row bearing kit ($790.00)
New flywheel bolts
New pressure plate bolts
Clutch ball pin
Throw out bearing
AOS
RMS
Water pump
Thermostat
Radiator cap
New Porsche coolant
Serpentine belt
IMS chain tensioner
Engine lid strut
Horn retaining frame
Radio ***** (?)
Parts: $2,341.26
Labor: $2,663.88
Tax: $187.30
Hazardous waste fee: $4.00
Grand total: $5200.44
that is at The Ridge In Shelton, WA. ironically, after inspecting the image closely it is exactly where my engine blew up two years ago on a long right hand sweeper.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif
https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif
Very cool, some things happen for a good reason. I am headed to Putnam Park Indiana this coming weekend for a Ky PCA event. Fresh oil and fingers crossed!
Rainy Saturday today...
-Replaced frunk shocks, now the frunk literally lifts itself!
-Replaced driver side seat belt adjuster
-Replaced sticky radio *****
-Aligned center caps with valve stems
-Installed PCA sticker
Not especially challenging: there are lots of trim bits that need to come off, but otherwise it isn't a tricky job. You have to disassemble and reassemble the top mounting cover parts in a particular order, but it is well documented on the internet (I think it was here on Rennlist).
Going to finish my paint correction and ceramic coating today. Started it about a week ago. Wash, clay bar, two stage paint correction and C-Quartz ceramic coating. I can see why some shops charge up to $2K for this. I'm into this at least 20 hours. I'm sure a seasoned pro could do it in half the time. I'll post some pics if it ever stops raining.
Kyle
I always get a kick when people try to argue its not worth the price. While pro line coatings are a bit more expensive than the consumer versions 99% of the work is in the prep, its a lot of labor to get to the point the coating is ready to apply.
I only noticed the cover was missing after I bought the car and it wasn't anywhere to be found on the floor. So I bought a replacement, $85 from Sunset. Expensive, but the naked adjuster bugged me and occasionally snagged my shirt so I just bought a new one. Just pry the old one off and pop the new one on. 5 minutes. I'm sure Porsche recommends replacement vs. repair because they did the math on the time it takes for a tech to put one back together and the the time it takes to replace with a new one and decided that was more economical.
Did some interior upgrades, installed some brushed metal gauge rings and painted console with ashtray delete.
before:
after:
swapping over console lid, side pieces, lock and extension since this was originally from a Boxster:
hinge was broken so installed a hinge fix kit:
ready to go back in:
the finished product:
225 mile road trip to see a friend in PA. PA turnpike is a fun road, traffic moves!! Go 90 and you won�t stay up with anyone. Felt like I tracked my car for 2 hours.
Added bonus, got to drive my friends loaded 2014 Vet, 7 speed manual, heads up display. Never been in a Vet before. What a totally different feel from my 03 c4s. 1st time experiencing rev matching down shifts as well. Compared to my c4s my initial thought was the Vet felt like I was driving a cruise ship. On straight road the Vet�s Hp was impressive but I�ll stick to the 4s.
Im headed to Carlisle and Hershey the next three weekends for different car events and am planning on taking my �99 C2. Looking forward to seeing how it handles the miles since I havent really driven it more than 40 miles a day since I picked it up end of last year!
Im the test case. 2003 c4s, 16 years - 21800 miles, last 10 weeks - nearly 4000 miles. Driving it hard, including 2 track days. Not a drop oil oil, sounds great, feels great. Can�t believe people own these cars and don�t let them out to play!
Well I needed a new battery and decided to spend the $ for lithium. Love the fact it jump starts itself. And although a direct drop in size, my new one seemed slightly larger at the bottom so that the battery clamp bolt was just short of engaging. Can anyone help with the bolt size and thread? Head is 13mm of course, I think it is 20mm long, I need 30 or so. Thanks!
the goal was more storage lol i honestly didnt know there were subs back there until a couple days ago
Im planning on stripping the �sound system� as the car is mainly used for fun drives
bought a Jabra Bluetooth Visor speaker to take care of my calls/nav/music along with my pending USB port replacing my cig lighter I think i�m covered for all my �tech� needs
Last Sunday and for the very first time filled my 996 tt with corn juice (e85) wanted to unleash the 920 whp it was tuned for but didn't happen due to severe steering wheel vibrations at around 110 mph. She'll need 2 new front tires with good speed balancing. Will try again in a couple of weeks.
Today I changed the cable to open the front hood. What a pain in the A??.
Took about 4-5 hours and found short cuts along the way. Wish I knew about them before I started.
Sanded/polished out some scratches on my stainless steel door sills. Played around a bit with the process and different grit sandpapers (dry and wet) and landed on this simple process. The trick is not to polish too finely since the sill has a brushed finish to begin with. It shouldn't look like a mirror after. The 400 grit seemed to be the best match for the original grain.
1) tape
2) 400 grit DRY sandpaper on scratched areas; sand in the direction of existing grain
3) spray water and wipe clean to check progress
4) bar cleaners friend over the whole sill using a scrotch brite scouring pad (again in direction of grain)
5) spray water and wipe clean to check result
6) repeat until satisfied
7) take a few passes with the 400 again across the whole sill to even out the brushed finished if needed (again in direction of grain)
8) admire work
Didn't get mine perfect, as I got tired, but overall happy with the results.
I think the website says 7 or 8 years. Since the technology has been around for awhile, I feel more confident about the decision. Planning to do my other cars as time/$ permit.
Pretty easy job for both, 30 minutes for Oil Sender, 1 hour for Motor mounts including removing
AirBox
and Air Pump and replacing.
Sender purchase at
http://ww
w.
RMEuropean.com
OEM VDO sender
Motor Mounts purchased at www.
RockAuto.com
cheapest price for OEM Mounts.
Didn't need to jack up car, Just put block under engine, when resting engine.
Minimal tools required.m follow directions on Pelican Parts workshop instructions
Shift Feel is night and day better, Using GT3 Shifter which feels lots better now. Easy to select First. solid feel between gears.
old unit
new one being tighten w 19mm Crowfoot and 6 inch extension stubby ratchet
old mount gap space at least 1 " gap snap on stub screw driver slides in
New one Top Old One Bottom 3/8" hang down difference
no gap for screw driver now 1/2 inch max
2 old 1 new center
New shift **** (delrin ****, aluminum shaft) from Lukas at FunctionFirst:
I'm a big fan of all of his products that I've tried.
I've wanted one of his shift ***** for a while now, but already had a nice aluminum Rennline ****. I finally decided to make the move.
They're on sale now, too, which I only found out after ordering. Bonus!
Pulled the gauge pod, the female receptacle for the hazards was in upside down. I pulled it out and tested and the hazards worked, put dash back together and turn signals worked. Horn still does not but that's easy to sort out. I'm amazed how interconnected the electrical is and the weird symptoms for simple problems.
I hate that switch, one my 3rd, Can't ever seem to get it out w/o breaking it. The Tabs never seem to release.
Interconnected, Oh yeah, ask people who have ABS/PSM light come on and it gets solved by replacing Brake light switch.
New steering wheel! Really nice LOVE the feel. Carbon and thickened where you want it. Flat on the bottom I was going to get a black airbag but I think I like the contraSt!
Bought from a fellow Rennlister. Awesome dealing with and real fast shipper! Thanks, SOLOW!
Decided to spend the $$$ and get the Becker radio with BT and Aux cable. Install was a breeze and BT audio was desperately needed. Becker has great customer service as well.
At the urging of my son, did a muffler delete. At first I was shocked by the sound, but the car sure sounds good. Everyone seems to like it so far, but it is quite a bit louder than what I'm used to. I haven't decided yet if I can get used to it as it's my DD, but will give it a try for a little bit.
I fitted muffler delete tailpipes last year, although it sounds awesome when you wind it up I wouldn't dare drive into town with them, get arrested pretty damn quick. I now have a pair of sporpion back boxes, quarter of the weight of porsche, acceptable round town but sounds like an F1 car when you give it some.
Yes - no kidding! The thing is awful looking. No idea what the previous owner did to the leather on it for that to happen but that is on my short list of projects. Oddly there was no other place in the car that the leather was destroyed like that so I guess that is good. Kind of doing the cosmetic things one step at time. Also need to replace the roll bar cover - the plastic under the black material is broken up and one of the little pieces over the roll bar is broken. Once those two items are done the interior stuff will be good. Tomorrow time permitting will be doing the double-din stereo mod.
Daryll
Mount is Panavise
https://www.panavise.com/pdf_indash/75132-198.pdf
Then I replaced the actual phone holder with this magnetic one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0DUVZV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0DUVZV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Easy to install I had these on all my cars for over 10 years now!
I did find a part number for the whole assembly including the two inserts on one of the dismantlers websites. Will find my order from them - it was a bid deal and apparently I did not bid enough so they never processed the order. Something to chase down this week. When I find the part number will post it.
Daryll
Did my double-din stereo today. Took longer than expected (of course) but looks good. Have not really tested it other than to make sure it works. Very pleased for $300 and my time.
[QUOTE=Ratchet1025;15895288]Tried a new track today, big fun and great new friends. 996 was strong as usual! Putnam Park, Indiana.
That first turn is a long way down that long front straight.
Thanks.
We are torn, though. Like having the original wheels, but they are ugly! We bought Carrera II 5 spoke rims and are looking to put them on.
Mind you, these original 17s I've gotten used to ... not as ugly anymore - but still ugly...
I dislocated my shoulder about a week ago; yesterday was the first day I felt like driving the standard would be a good idea again. Celebrated with parking garage pr0n.
Mike - Thank you very much! On the stereo, basically I replaced everything. All four speakers were completely shot, and I did the head unit as well. My car did not have the door speakers or the external amp so a little bit simpler project. Moved the HVAC to the bottom of the lower console, and then used the Metra kit from Crutchfield to do the head unit. It is a Sony XAV-AX1000 - has Apple CarPlay . Works very well and sounds as good as anything probably can, given that it only has four tiny speakers. I like that it looks sort-of factory - at least it is a clean look that does not stick out as aftermarket crap. Total cost was about $440 for the head unit, Metra kit, pre-made wiring harness and four speakers.
Other than that, changed out the gearshift **** - the one on the car when I bought it was all scratched up. Still need to do the hand brake and the roll bar cover. Also did the non-smoker cubby in place of the ashtray. Added the floor mats, general clean-up. When I bought it it needed a couple panels replaced in the drivers� seat - an upholstery shop did that.
Daryll
I remember when they came out as OEM on the C4 When I bought my 2001 they were no longer available. I had 18" sport designs but I looked for a couple years to find used ones for snows for the winter. Never found any. To each his own on looks... I never like the fuchs wheels on the older Porsches
If it was only one part, I'd have to say that it would be the shocks. I cant believe how well they held up (Until I beat on them that is). The one thing that I know is original is the interior, while it isn't shocking, It turns out that my car has almost been around longer than I have!
Oil change.
Install LN spin on oil filter adapter.
Dropped sump 7k miles after imsb installation. All clean.
Does look like they used way too much sealant, but nothing in pick up screen or in filter exams.😎
Was jealous of so many others getting the ceramic coating, decided to spend the $$$ and get the mobile version. Very pleased with EcoShine out of Toledo, Ohio.
My cluster looks like this where the digital speedo readout is under the analog speedo....I've seen in other phots where digital speed is under the tach...is that just a computer setting?
Really? I have a 2002 996.2 and digital speedo is under the analog speedo still. Perhaps leftover 996.1 parts in my particular car since the first year?
I don�t think you can display actual digital speed under the tach. What you might have seen in photos is average speed displayed under tach, which is one of the display options, along with average mpg/miles remaining with current gas/etc.
i have 03 c4s so I can�t speak to 996.1s.
There's some vids on youtube showing the speedo under the tach and its def not avg speed since the number changes and matches the analog speedo needle.
You Tube
My 1999, Mk1, had the digital speedo in the center with the tach. My 2004, Mk 2, has the digital speedo to the left with the speedo. My now departed 2001 986 was the same as the '04.
The above picture if from the '99.
Back from DC after 400+ mile round trip. Now have put 5,000 miles on my 03 4S since buying it 90 day ago. Loving every mile. Trip back was typical DC-Philly-NY I-95 bumper to bumper, then wide open, then bumper to bumper traffic. My left foot got quite the workout over my nearly 4 hours, but the car handled like a champ.
Drove it! After a long FSI rebuild (Stage II Track Performer) I'm happy to report I got it back on Friday did some last minute work on it yesterday (leaky rear hard brake line - thank god it was the drivers side line...) and was driving by last night. I'm quite impressed with the overall sound, power and smoothness of the motor. Obviously I've got to stick to the break in regimen - Drive it like you normally would!
Gotta love that!!! I will not succumb to PRHD (Post Reconstruction Hyper-sensitivity Syndrome)... I'll post a new thread with my overall impressions once I get a little more seat time - In the mean time I can't wipe the smile off my face.
Great track weekend at Grattan in Michigan via RSR PCA! On the way home I wanted to try this product that was recommended here on RL. Wow, it really worked! Just spray on and hose off. Done!
This airbox has been kicking around my house for a couple months while waiting for my car to come home with its new FSI/Raby power plant...I couldn�t remember where it was for a few days, then remembered that I had moved it to the shed...When I finished bleeding my brakes on Tuesday night I popped it in there... Looks so much better than the stock 3.4 airbox 😃
secondary ? New MPSC2's ? What were you impressions , Mine seem to take a lap or 2 to generate heat, but once they are, they stay consistent until done lapping. Not great for autoX but DE's etc. they are tough to beat actual treadwear usage.
I got 2-3 more DE days than Hooisers, Toyo's, which seem to get greasy 12-15 laps into session..
I have a Micheln guide for Tire pressures and Suspensions settings somewhere. I'll see if I can find it.
For sure! I'm luvin' it and the price was right (right around $225) - you see them all the time in the $400 range, but I wasn't going there... If anything, it seems like the motor might be a little quieter now - not sure though...
I noticed that the German C4 has developed a coolant leak in the three-way coolant pipe, so I pulled it back into the garage and drove the American C4 instead.
I did not see the need to air up to 35PSI for the commute...
Time to order parts for a PM/deferred maintenance weekend extravaganza...
Sept 30th? Wow! That'll be a quick one - you must have gotten a "lucky slot"... In any case, whenever you get it back you're gonna luv it! Which build did you opt for again?
Regarding the Sport Cup 2s, very happy. My only other track tire was the Hankook RS4 which I also thought was great. RS4 had good wear, mostly predictable, just not enough grip at the max (mainly due to tire sizes). The 235/295 stagger of the Sport Cup 2s is really fantastic, very balanced. I am still getting used to the lower pressures (must be under 35 hot, 31~32 is the target).
Sooner or later, want to try the 245/305 or 315 stagger that others are running, just haven�t done the research yet.
Please let me know your tire size/pressure experiences!
I spent the morning swapping out the HVAC compressr hub/bearing//Pulley/ magnet/clutch. I now have a vibrating line in the passenger front fender well I’m trying to quiet down. Always something.
^^ No - I didn�t even try it with the included snorkel... I just swapped the stock snorkel from the 3.4 airbox. Fits perfect no problems, no repositioning the sai
Post IMSS install started it on the lift and looked and listened to my very expensive non performance mod on my beautiful 996 AE. Replaced RMS and AOS so watched for leaks.
Glad to report dry as a bone after a month in the desert.
Im assuming AOS is alot easier to get to if youre in there to do the IMS/Clutch/RMS? Collecting parts for my IMS job and figured i'd add the AOS to the list if it makes sense.
While not at all practical, we jammed all of our gear in the car and had an absolute blast driving it this weekend to a lacrosse tournament across the state. It was beautiful, and on the way home had to run with the top up because we were both sunburned. Some great back road driving and created some awesome memories!
I just did this with my hockey and lacrosse gear. Lacrosse tournament two weekends ago and a hockey game to close the weekend. It's incredible I can fit my hockey bag in the truck with the lacrosse bag in the back with 4 sticks and a suitcase.
Took tires to the shop to get mounted (yesterday). Should be able to bring one good one home today...
Need to get 17" wheels for this car. Should reduce the risk of tire damage. Will also allow me to mount and balance using my own equipment.
Went to an office and came out and saw this. Why are there such angry people in the world? Had to be fifty open empty parking spaces. I could barely get in the car.....
I considered that...but...there are two additional rows of parking behind me in the shot with the same types of trees. Then open spaces adjacent to and along the office building behind me. And if you look towards the pond fountain, there are about 20+ parking spaces in full shade 20 feet away. This person was just being a total jerk.
Happens to me a lot! I don't think they are jerkls. They are just not plain old thinking that it would be hard to get in the car, not really defending him but I have "gently" asked peopl...e
lol, I feel your pain. A few years ago I parked in the last row at the back of our employee lot where nobody (and I mean NOBODY) parks. I had a planter on one side and a solar panel roof post on the other and figured I had a nice buffer zone.
The other thing that got me about this pic is how small an '80s 5 series looks next to a modern car.
Well yes, here is my 968 a few months ago. Parked all alone, and then viola a neighbor appeared. But like the above, it was probably the availability of shade from the trees.
Or remove all four valve cores from the *******'s tires....
Unless it's a co-worker. Then you need to have a face-to-face chat and understand WTF their motive is.
Just reminded me of the time I shoveled 3' of snow (living in NoVa) out of our reserved parking space so my pregnant ex-wife could pull in after work...Some a-hole pulled in our stall before she got home and stayed all night. A pebble under the cap was all I needed to satisfy my rage.
i blew out my left hamstring playing ball and then had to drive my 6 speed c4s 25 minutes home. had to use my right leg to depress the clutch to get the car started and then cursed like a sailor every gear shift home...but i made it. still wouldn't switch to a tip!! GETTING OLD S***S, but it beats the alternative!
Here is another option - for a retro look. Had them for about six months and they are holding up well. No interest in the company just a satisfied customer. Also put their nylon mats in my BMW - they are super sturdy and fairly easy to clean, but not as easy as the factory winter mats.
Daryll
Cocomats.com.
I bought mine today! I'm pretty excited! Cosmetically it looks pretty worn but it runs great and made the 200 mile trip home at 75mph with the air blowing cold.
I just added some photos to my post. Previous owner bought it in 1999 and the title says it had 5100 miles on it back then. He said he bought it when it was 3 months old. CARFAX says it�s one owner. It�s at 99.4k miles so I�ll be the one to drive it over 100k. It�s always been a South Carolina car as far as I can tell. Kind of basic except for the dual power seats with driver�s memory.
Good news: I got the lip spoiler installed that I wanted to try for track performance
Bad news: The part is now installed, is raw plastic and needs to be painted while on the car
Question: Any advice to getting this part primed and painted flat black on the car in my garage?
Thanks in advance!
From the photo, it looks like it came with primer on it already. I don't think flat black needs much primer (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) anyway. It seems like you could just shoot it with flat black plastic paint yourself. It's impossible to screw up (or excel) at flat black unless you put so much on that it runs.
I'm confused why you can't just remove it and paint it rather than needing to paint it on the car. If it's due to time limitations, maybe track it as is and then paint it after (you will probably get chips on the track anyway).
Thanks for the response. I think it is just gray plastic, it doesn�t fee like it has primer on it. Ok, so then mask everything off and rattle can it? Is there a brand or type that is best?
Difficult to remove now, the Indy put it on (per my instructions) with about 9 fasteners and double sided tape.
I don't have experience with either one, but from what I've heard about SEM and given that SEM is made for flexible plastic, it's probably worth getting the SEM. Krylon seems more like regular paint that is for hard surfaces.
Dropped the sump plate over the weekend and am satisfied with what I found--just a few small bits of plastic. Not unreasonable for a 115k mile car. I only wish I knew if the plate had ever been removed prior...
I changed my oil last weekend and had this surprise. Freaked me out for a minute but Jake talked me down off the roof and pointed out to me that the grade of bolt it was pretty much meant it was from the sump. As soon as he told me that, I knew what it was and knew that I had done a dumb thing but got away with it.
The last time I took the sump plate off, I removed the baffle to keep from getting gasket remover on it. When I packaged the car up to send it to FSI for them to replace the timing chains (because I found a roller in the sump), I just hand-tightened the 3 bolts that hold the baffle in because I didn't know what to torque them to. I let FSI know that, but ultimately, it was my responsibility to properly mark that these were loose, or to torque them. Having taken the Knowledge Gruppe's M96 hands-on rebuild class I now know (and I kind of knew before) that if the bolts are in, they should be torqued, otherwise they should not be installed. Worst case, mark them as "loose" on a piece of bright masking tape.
Take aways:
The LN magnetic plug paid for itself
If it's in, torque it and mark it
The M96 hands-on class taught me a lot of useful techniques and now doing something like dropping the sump cover is "no biggie"
If you are going to change your own oil, you may end up dropping the sump cover so go ahead and order a tube of Drei Bond now--I've been waiting 9 days for mine
If you live in Atlanta and need Drei Bond, get it from Hennessy because they can get it in a couple of days.
Even though Drei Bond is used on BMWs, the BMW dealer treats it like a controlled substance, doesn't have it in stock, and won't order it for you.
Yep there was a bunch of crap and dirt in there between the coils. The condenser is pretty easy to remove from the radiator (a few screws). You just have to be careful with the refrigeration lines.
The engine runs about 10 degrees cooler now
Yeah, it is not for a MK1 non aero. I just bought all lip spoilers for MK1 or MK2 and hoped that one would fit. It isn�t perfect, but looks good from 5 feet. After painting, should be all good. I think I got it from Delaware Porsche, about $170. I think I posted the p/n already, if not PM me and I can send it to you.
I have no idea if these replacements are a new material. I�d almost bet that they will get sticky again. Mine were absolutely terrible so they warranted replacing. I plan on replacing my stock unit with the Continental at some point but I�ve got more important things to upgrade first.
Put in a new air cleaner filter, pulled off the front bumper and cleaned out the leaves and dirt from the radiators and condensers. Pulled out and cleaned up the battery tray. Took out the headlights so I can start polishing them. I ended up ordering a new cabin filter
and radiator duct for the driver�s side. Hopefully I�ll get it all back together next weekend.
Also, does anyone know where this clear tube goes to? It has a black 90� connector on the end but I cannot find where it connects.
I finally got 4 days off!
I decided to spend my first morning installing the new red powder coated calipers(and new Brembo pads) that have been setting in a box in my garage for several weeks now.
Before:
After:
Thanks! I�ll double check the battery in the car to see if it has a connection. I just got the car and the battery is less than a year old based on the date I see on it.
I found them on EBay.
I was looking for used black calipers that then I could paint ahead of time (or have powder coated) and install them in one day.
I found these used for a great price.
I�m planning on selling my black calipers now.
I�ll include the Porsche stickers I bought before I found the red ones.
Those look fantastic!!!! I was going to have mine re-coated this winter in black (keep it toned down) but hard to beat classic red calipers!!! Were they recently redone or were they just a clean old set?
They were recently done.
They looked flawless, except one had a tiny nick.
If I had just paid ($800 is the local cost to have a set done to this quality) to have them done, I would have been satisfied.
The white �Porsche� name is paint, not a sticker. I can�t even feel a raised area with the differences in color.
Well used black sets cost $800+.
I only paid $1000 for my red set.
I know it is difficult to comment with only 2 samples, but so far I am strictly limiting myself to 3 track days between oil changes. For convenience, 4 track days would be dramatically better. Both of these samples have approximately 3 track days plus miles to and from the track. Am I able to extend to 4 track days?
Forget it. That thing is destin to blow any second...
Oh wait, those results are really good. I would be comfortable going at least one more track day, if not two.
Gotta love a clean bill of health.
Definitely agree that is the best way, and when I trailer the car, that will be the plan. For now, I am trying to use an oil for both street and track purposes.
I have this same setup with a 997 3.6 airbox with a 996.2 3.6 snorkel on a 2002 and it fit without any adjustments or movement of other components. What is so interesting to me is that it uses the same filter and plugs right into the throttle body like it was made for it.
Front bumper, hood, front fenders & rear bumper respray. Decided to keep my C4S for a while as it really does everything I need and it needs some serious TLC. Is mechanically sound (and should be, with how much I've put into it!), so the exterior should match and not be bashful whilst attending GTG and other events. Looking forward to a full ceramic coating + paint correction detail after.
Yup, I did the same. I added a sheet metal screw on each side, as the 3.8 airbox didn't have the locking tabs on the sides that the 3.4 had (only one on the top).
Noob rites of passage for me...
Cleaned out the radiators/condensers and then lovingly gawked at what the UPS man delivered.
I guess I’m about to find out how much better this SS is compared to the B&M knock-off I bought off of Amazon.
Maybe I’m missing something but I just installed the Numeric and it didn’t appear to be a big leap from the B&M knock-off it replaced. The only thing special I did to the B&M was shim it to remove side-to-side play. After one test drive, I am inclined to believe that my $80 SS was/is 90% of what the $629 Numeric is. Maybe I don’t have the Numeric set up perfectly, I don’t know...
R u on the midle handle setting? I put their cables in too and the shifts were s lit more crisp from the angency power ss that was in there. I do think the throw was actually slightly longer on the midfle setting. I may switch too the shortest setting one of these days but most peffer the middle.
It is in the middle setting. Honestly, it feels just like the B&M knock-off with the exception that the throws from 1-2 and 2-3 are slightly more “bolt rifle like”. 3-4 has a slightly mushy pronounced notch. 4-5 and 5-6 didn’t get much (if any) of a work out and to be honest, aren’t that important to me for this application.
Going off what I know up to this point. I think a majority of people wanting to experience a short shifter for the first time, would be more than happy with my previous setup. I’m not knocking Numeric through. I am well aware that the last 10% of performance can often cost 5X as much as the product that took you to 90%. I’m definitely not a performance car/driving expert, I’m just throwing some data points out there for people to consider.
In my experience it's all about the feel - the throw on the middle setting is about the same as the B&M. The feel between the Numeric and every other shifter I tried (basically all of the usual suspects except the GT3) was night and day - even with the stock cables. The best I can describe it is "easier" & "more precise" (bolt action?) - just no "mush" whatsoever... I had someone drive my car last weekend and it was one of the first things they mentioned (besides the awesome FSI 3.8 track performer engine...
).
Maybe there's something funky going on with your shifter/cables?
Re: my shift cables, they are OEM with ~50K miles. Maybe thats what is preventing a "night & day" experience compared to my previous shimmed B&M knock-off setup. At any rate, the Numeric is staying.
One additional PLUS with the Numeric is that it has eliminated a couple of annoying buzzes/rattles that were coming from my previous setup. A closer examination of the retired shifter assembly revealed that Porsche used a few felt vibration dampeners on the shifter assembly housing. These problematic contact points are now removed from the equation.
Here is a pic showing one of the OEM housing felt points.
Felt pad is in the center at the bottom of the shift housing.
Early morning ride through some twisty roads with windows down and sunroof open. Finished off with a run through the gears on a long sweeping straightaway up to 120. �Too much fun for too little $�. That should be the 996 motto!
2003 c4s arctic silver metallic/metropol blue (Manuell)
Wash with Griots car wash, clayed it while washing, then used Meguiars 6" orbital buffer with an orange pad and Griots 3 in 1. First time I ever used the Griots, I am VERY pleased with the results! I finally got out most of the fine swirls.
Oh, and the pics were taken with a Google Pixel 3a, I'm very impressed with that phone camera!
Some gratuitous pics for your enjoyment...
No more swirls!!!
How do you like the flag? I have them all around my property!
Not just today, but, over the last two weekends, I did the following on my 1999 C4 with 167,250 miles. No issues with her, just maintenance items based on age and lack of knowledge regarding the past.
New
coolant reservoir and cap
water pump
thermostat
coolant (thank you Ahsai for the info on the airlift system...made this a snap)
fuel filter
plugs, tubes and coils
brake pads and rotors
Had planned to bleed the brakes but bit off more than I could chew in the time I had...will bleed and put on new hoses next.
The coils and plugs made a difference I could notice right away (maybe the clean fuel filter too?). smoother idle right from start-up
Here are a few pics of the fun.
shiny new rotors
lowering the engine and disconnecting the fuel lines provided the room needed to fit in the new reservoir
from the left bank, up is forward, thank you p.o. for the ?sealant? on one coil - I had new tubes ready to go so this was no issue for me
old plugs, do the experts see anything wonky with any of these? forward is up in the pic.... the lower left plug came out with the sealant covered coil...there was a bit of oil in that tube. none were "totally dry" of oil but it was more of a film than droplets
Took her out for a drive and thoroughly enjoyed it!
Sorry for editing out a couple of photos. Great stuff!
Car looks real nice. Also good to see someone taking on their own work. Regarding the plugs - it looks to me as though you are running a little rich on bank one. The plugs seem to be a little more soot covered. If you can gain access to a Durametric tool (or similar) you can monitor a great deal of engine outputs. Should be able to discover if you are rich on bank #1, or any number of other concerns.
Thanks for sharing.
Regarding the plugs - it looks to me as though you are running a little rich on bank one. The plugs seem to be a little more soot covered. If you can gain access to a Durametric tool (or similar) you can monitor a great deal of engine outputs. Should be able to discover if you are rich on bank #1, or any number of other concerns.
Thanks for sharing.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks Scott, Appreciate the feedback! I guess if I am going to wrench on this baby I gotta get serious about accessing, reading and understanding DATA.
Looks like I'm not the only one that spent the weekend washing/waxing/whatnot. Did my annual paint correction and decided to snap a few pix, ya know, just to document the work done....
Wow, very clean! Does your paint correction entail color/clear coat sanding? I need to research more about this process. I'd like to correct my factory 'Orange peel' this winter.
Thanks! No sanding in my routine, but my regiment is changing. Last year/this year it was a simple:
-Wash with Wolfgang Auto Bathe
-Wolfgang Clay bar
Followed by the hand application and removal (via DA buffer) of:
-Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer
-Wolfgang Perfekt Finish Paint Prep
-Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0
I say it's changing because the current result is great, but there are some fine surface scratches that are still there now that I'm done -- but no orange peel to speak of. I simply plan to use a more corse polishing pad with the Polish Enhancer step to see if that does it. I'm also gonna give a ceramic coating a whirl.
For your needs, I'd go with a cutting pad and some VERY fine abrasive compound like
this
. If that doesn't do it, you can wet sand with something fine like 1500 grit, but yes, do your research on your own -- I've wet sanded other cars, but not the 996 so others may know better.
And no, i don't work for Wolfgang, just bought A LOT of different brands over the years and am currently super happy w/ the results from Wolfgang products -- you can spend more, but you don't necessarily get more IMO.
Accelerated a little too much after going thru an intersection while shifting and getting around a slow moving vehicle. Unfortunately the local deputy happened to be coming the other way and turned his lights on immediately and pulled me over. I was polite and he knocked it down so it�s just a small fine with no points, etc...
As I was sitting there with my engine off I was worried about whether or not he would notice when I started the car up again with my recent muffler delete, but the good news he didn�t even look up.
Since we're talking detailing on this page, I finally finished round 1 of the paint correction on my car.
Before/After
Weapons of choice:
Turned out pretty good if I say so myself.
The Meguiar's 205 wasn't quite aggressive enough of a cut for the blemishes in the paint, but it's "good enough" for now and not embarrassing to drive in the sun (honestly, anyone who isn't a detailing nerd would probably never notice the stuff that's bothering me). This winter I'll go a little deeper and probably do a little wet sanding in some places to hopefully get the paint really dialed in.
Looks great, reminds me of my ocean blue metallic, very dark in the shade but super bright metallic in the light. On a black 2004 911 I did 205 worked perfectly at removing 90% of everything while finishing down nice enough to put a LSP on. When I did my 99 even compounding wasn't enough to remove everything. Interesting how clear coats change from manufacture, year, color and so on.
Washed it after two days of getting rained on...I'd love to do a paint correction but, I have a cat that likes to walk/sleep on my car when I'm not looking.
Last night, I used Meguiars spray-on "ceramic" wax. If you try this on a black car, make sure you read up on the stuff first. Otherwise, you will NOT be pleased with the result.
After reading the instructions and applying two coats, here's what it looked like last night. I haven't seen it in the sun yet.
Just bought my 996. Flew to Cincinnati and drove 5 hours back. Needs a good detail inside and out but overall a great car
Installed the function first shift ****. What a difference.
I had a 986 for a bit years ago and always hated the shifter and vowed to immediately fix that. Once I put the deposit down on the car I ordered a new ****.
Drove up to a cars and coffee this morning to Malvern, PA with my buddy and his calloway zo6. The 996 still can go faster threw the on ramps but that thing caught me fast once we got out of the turn. A couple of "fried egg" era boxters another mk1 areo 996 and some newer stuff to look at. There was a ton more cars out last week, it was already 92* by 9am so i think most stayed home
Used chemical guys butter wet wax and put two coats on. Hand washed the car and dried it, then put it in the garage until the surface was cool. Applied by hand and used a buffer to remove and then buff. Repeated the application then drove it and appreciated the shine.
First Coat
Second coat
I really like this wax. It brought out a depth to the color and really shows off the metallic flakes.
This.
Bead Maker is awesome b/c it goes on easy, it goes on EVERYWHERE (trim, moulding, glass, paint, etc.), it wipes/buffs off easy and it lasts for a few weeks. I use it as a drying aid.
Added bonus... It's slick as ice 24 hours after application.
Not literally today, but...
1) Carseats installed for 2 of my 3 sons. Removed rear seat bottoms and backs, providing room and solid stable surface in the back for Cybex Solution X-Fix carseats. Plus a booster in the front for the 3rd kid.
2) Fixed the darn porsche sunshade that never stays in place - common problem I understand - it slips past the visors and falls down triggering the cabin alarm. Solution - punch two holes in sunshade, add two grommets, two short bungee cords, fold down the visors, fixed.
Yes, great idea. Using the rear view mirror as support was "Plan A"... but my bungie cords were too slack, so went with Plan B as pictured. But using the rear view mirror with a tighter cord, and/or different placement of grommets, could be a good option.
Can't wait till my little one is old enough for the boosters, my stepdaughter can ride in the back but errands are gonna be a lot more fun when they can both ride in it lol.
Did a bunch of maintance on the car. New motor mounts (idle is now nice and smooth), new oil filler tube (thanks to me breaking mine while taking off the airbox), new belts, air filter, cabin filter, etc.
Also finished up a print of the first iteration of my wireless charging mount to go in place of the small GT3 delete piece. Making a few changes to better fit my phone. But this combined with bluetooth on the CDR makes me feel like the car is pretty much circa 2016. :P
My son took his uncle for a spin in my 996 not realizing he stepped in dog s**t. They drove about 50 feet and hopped out because about the odor. Guess what I spent doing the rest of the night 😝
Ha! Rare that I read anything on this site that literally makes me laugh out loud - this post did! Bummer you had to deal, you are a good dad. And man there�s an idiom in there somewhere!
[QUOTE=Outbound;15993974]Did a bunch of maintance on the car. New motor mounts (idle is now nice and smooth)
being new to porsches, is a smooth and quiet idle an indicator that motor mounts are fine? Someone on this site previously commented on a photo of my c4s exhaust pipes and suggested i check my mounts, but my car is dead quiet at idle.
Thanks
[QUOTE=Optionman1;15994563]
I had the tail pipe symptom, as well as could feel the engine shift badddd on hard shifts, and the rough feeling idle. Wasn't like car-running-bad rough, just like I had upgraded motor mounts (ironically) in there instead of worn out one. Just a solid buzzy type of vibration that didn't make noise but made the car feel race-car-ish enough that my wife rolled her eyes when I came home with it and took her around the block because this was supposed to be the comfortable grand touring car upgrade over the Fiesta ST I had. Ha.
Once I get this fully functioning and dialed in I'll have to consider it! Probably wouldn't be cheap though. This was a 14 hour print on my Form2 using engineering resin instead of a typical cheap FDM PLA print, those will melt in the temps experienced inside a car, and aren't strong enough to use the snap fit that the OEM part uses.
This is using the guts of a regular wireless charger that will be hardwired into a 12V line (probably tap off the cig power). I still need to get the bluetooth module installed on the CDR.
Have some color matched paint coming to match the center console. Might redesign with a magnetic mount in mind if I find that this still moves around or falls out in hard driving. I have one of those grippy cases so wasn't too concerned about making it super stable. Was aiming more for an OEM look.
Rubber bits don�t wear based on mileage as much as time. If they are original they�re way past due for replacement, and from the looks of the pix, I�d suggest replacement. My car idled smooth and ran fine, but after replacing I knew the old mounts were shot because the car felt so much more composed and solid through corners, where as before, the engine�s weight would shift independently of the rest of the car. It�s one of those, �didn�t know it was needed until replaced� kinda things. Tough to describe, and a bit nuanced, but money well spent imo and an easy diy.
I just swapped out my original motor mounts for a set or RSS semi solid with only 14,200 miles on the car. The change in the cars driving characteristics was insane.
A whole bunch of people (including my wife) were laughing there butts off...not me at the time
....but looking back now that it is all cleaned up, I am laughing too.
Redyed my sport seats,I used a company called Fibrenew,after seeing a Ammo/Larry Kosilla video on you tube,I couldn't be happier or more impressed with the quality of work,He did the fronts and rears,1 week downtime,I removed seats and delivered them to his home, he had a nice shop setup in the garage.I researched his work by going on the Fibrenew website, they have photos and reviews, its a franchise business, and my guy has my area Palm Beach,Boca,Delray,Fla.He offered to come to the house to remove the seats, but I took care of that, and the price was lowered by $150.00.Total cost $1240.00.
The whole point of coil-over suspension is for that exact purpose. Plus swapping springs to change rate is much easier. That and you can adjust corner weight.
Strath - you should be able raise the spring perches incrementally until you return to stock ride height (assuming that is your intent).
I think he's one of the brave souls that gave Raceworks coilovers a go and upon installation found out they won't go that high (despite the company's claim that they would). Personally, i think it looks great lowered, but depending on the roads traveled daily in your world, may not be so great for the front spoiler.
Randyg308
, Looks great!, Just a couple questions/points...1st, at least from the photo's, the re-dye looks lighter? Are they, or is it just the lighting/photo's? If they're lighter - I'd say don't worry about it, if you give them a little time they'll darken a little (at least this is my experience using the Leatherworld product). 2nd, while $1250 isn't a "fortune", if you're willing to do the work, you could have DIY'd them for around $175 in materials (
https://leatherworldtech.com/porsche...e-color-chart/
) - seeing as you removed the seats yourself, it looks like the work is well within your abilities. Lastly, why the yellow center-stripe on your steering wheel? Blue would work so much better! (sorry, I couldn't help but be a little nitpicky
)
Oddly, I am OK with the lowered ride height. I was nervous about getting in and out of my driveway, but I am ok. I had to crab up it even at stock height.
The Raceworks have both a spring perch and a lower lock ring for adjusting ride height. On the fronts I don't think I have enough threading on the shock body to go up. I am already 2mm over the recommended spring pre-load. I would ask Raceworks for technical help...but who are we kidding? They haven't answered my emails/facebook posts/tweets for over 6 weeks now.
1500 mile road trip! Went to DC to see the 50th-anniversary Saturn V launch at the Washington memorial. Also stayed for Justice Kennedys memorial Both Worth watching on youtube! Went to Virginia Beach then to Atlantic City. Had a blast. She insisted on top-down even though temps reached 105!!
Thanks for the reply it must be the photographs themselves because the match was so perfect I couldn�t believe it this guy was an artist I have removed seats and even dismantled them to some degree but I wasn�t going to tackle the dye job , that was way too much I do DYI quite a few projects but somethings you got a let the pros do ,and as far as the yellow stripe on the steering wheel It�s the color I first saw many years ago and I thought it was a nice contrast
Looks great. Seems like some aluminum trim rings on the gauges would look great with everything else you have in the interior.
Is that stainless trim over the row of warning lights? Would love to see a closer shot if so.
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I've got full leather in my car as well, and never noticed that the speaker grills were embossed with Porsche! Now I have to go look (but I won't be home/see my car until Monday
). I washed it last night with some new stuff I got from Chemical Guys. After washing I noticed a bunch of spots from sitting outside, so I clay-barred it... then washed it again
... Now it needs a good waxing
Installed Car Chemistry inserts today(3 baffle) to eliminate the drone from the muffler bypass I did roughly a month ago. Made a huge difference and made things a little quieter again which is nice, but still sounds really great when I get on it...
Hi!
Just wondering how it went!
Did you use the VW part, used Porsche or you went with new Porsche unit?
Planning on doing this and the handles inside/ outside switches while Im in there.
Say what you will. I'm an OE type of guy. The door latch mechanism started getting wonky locking and unlocking. My car was manufactured 7/98 so it is now 21 years old. Since the original door latch mechanism has worked for 21 years, I am replacing with OE Porsche door latch mechanism. Paid a premium, but should be the last time I have to replace it. $323 from AutoAtlanta 4 days from ordering to my door
Using this for helpful hints
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-detailed.html
Ok after a few days of driving I�m very satisfied with the drone reduction while still having a much throatier sound overall than what my stock units provided.
Hi guys,
Help please... My 2000 Porsche Carrera's heater/ac fan won't turn off.. Dealer diagnosed that the HVAC blower resistor pack has failed and suggested to replace resistor pack but it cost a lot for them to fix it... I was hoping to do it myself.. I already got part but not sure where to install it..
Please advice where can I find it.
Hope I got th eright part
Thanks you
Having just done this on a BMW, I can say that it
looks
like the right part. I hope I never have to find out where it's located on a 996.
Original (BMW) part on the left, updated version on the right. BTW, in BMW speak it's referred to as a 'final stage resistor'.
I used to work for GM on auto climate control. It appears to be a variable resistor used to control the fan speed. It should be mounted in the hvac module so that air flows over it to cool it when operating, hence all the heat exchange area. I am new to the Porsche world but when I worked on hvac it was normally mounted to the top or rear of the module under the dash on the passenger side.
So much more fun!! There is no backseat fighting when going 101mph on an empty sunny Sunday morning freeway. Not that I would ever admit to exceeding a speed limit for their cheap thrills. Howls of glee!!
Tried my best to restore the driver seat.
It was badly damaged on the side with alot of dye crackling.
Managed to do pretty well considering the damages it had before.
Now I know the rest of the interior will be easy and will look like new when done.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Thanks!
Sure
-I used lacquer thinner with 400 grit sandpaper to remove as much dye I could on the critical surfaces.
Only partial sanding for the rest of the seat.
-Used leatherique oil to clean and soften the leather.
I left it on a couple of days and re-applied as needed.
-Applied putty on the major cracks plus light sanding. You can also see in this picture how the seat was discolored with darker grey sections on the backrest.
-Applied 3 coats of dye using spray gun.
While cleaning the underside of the seat I think I found 3.75 in pocket change Wouhou!!
As you can see in the after pictures I couldnt get rid of fews bumps present on the bottom of the left side rest but I guess I will have to live with them.. I was affraid of adding to much filler so I prefer leaving it this way for now and correct those later as my technique gets better.
The rest of the seat look almost new so its defenately better than before!
Installed an aftermarket wheel that I had after finally collecting all the parts, and then decided to stick with stock. Going more for the softer grand touring approach with the car rather than race car, and after putting it in, loved the way it looked but just felt like it wasn't right for the direction I want to take the car. So got it listed for sale.
https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1154960
But here's some pics of it installed!
Those seats look good, curious how they hold up as I've seen mixed reviews on longevity. Although I am going to guess its like a lot of things and depends on proper application.
Yep. I reverse engineered the OEM GT3 plastic part, then designed a mount for my iPhone XS and has a wireless charger built into it as well. So now have the wireless charging (needs to be hardwired still, that's what the USB cord coming out from the cig lighter is going to) and bluetooth on the CDR220. Works great for navigation and general music.
Printed it on my Form2 using a durable engineering resin (so it won't melt) and painted it to match the interior.
Thanks!
I will see if it hold-on well in few days.
Im going for a road trip so I guess that will be the test!
I read it take about a month to achieve full curring so I have to be very carefull before that. So new rules is boxer short for the driver is mandatory and no clothes for the women on the passenger side just in case
I was surprised that they dont offer a sealer to put on top of the new dye..
They told me it would be okay like that.
Ive seen coating that can go on top of the dye but the result is way to glossy for me.. it almost shine and doesnt look natural si I will leave it like that.
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Added 15mm wheel spacers front and rear on my 40AE. The back looks a tad wide, I think 15mm is right for lowered where more camber would move the wheel tops in a little.
Going to live with it a while while to see how I like it.
i don�t have a proper �before� photo, so here�s a shot Intook at the gas station with no spacers.
Here are the after shots:
The prior owner put them in. He also gave me the originals and the receipt for these.
They are from FVD-BROMBACHER in Germany,
https://www.fvd.net/us-en/FVD6319960...1999-2004.html
(Note that although FVD is in Germany, these parts originate in Taiwan per the invoice). Apparently plug and play. Gives it an updated pseudo-997 look.
Me too. I probably should have left the rear alone or maybe gone to 5mm. But at 5mm I'm not even going to notice it.
It's funny as it looks much wider than before, but 15mm isn't much.
1. Love your signature block! I also have a 03 C2 that's driven everyday!
2. Love the lowered look! What did you install that did this?
3. Could you post a rear view pic of the bike rack installed? Want to see how it's mounted/secured.
4. Where'd you buy it, how much?
Thanks!
Not much honestly. No whistle that you might get other cross bar racks. If you didn't see the bikes in the rear window you wouldn't know they were there.
Thank you!
I'm on stock struts with H&R Sport springs. ~30mm drop F/R
I got the rack on amazon. Sometimes there's a little shipping savings vs buying direct from seasucker.com
These are the only 2 photos I have from the rear. It's secured on the bottom portion of the rear window. The entire mount system is very strong and I've tested them to ~125. The faster the speed the more stable the bikes seem to be. (Although I know everything has a breaking point)
mYejefDh.jpg
rlGXwBnh.jpg
Water pump, coil packs, sparkies, all preventive, annual oil change from new, last 6 years blackstone oil analysis, PSS10s, 6GT3 wheels, 32k mile car is perfect. Yes, all four pieces. Key, wallet and both luggage cases. Just did had done LN IMSS, again preventively, and at 32k Miles against my better judgement, and against my INDY recommendation did clutch, pressure plate and release, nose guide and pilot bearing. Porsche sickness forsure.
Front hood shocks - went with Stabilus from FCPEuro - and a wash and wax. The old hook shocks still worked, but were getting weak.
Figured out a neat way to prop the hood with an unused wash brush that fit perfectly with one end in the corner of the frunk and the soft end underneath the hood to help support while changing the shock on each side. It's the third arm you need to make a job like this easier. Maybe 15 mins start to finish. Dealer quote for the same - $180, cost me $55 in parts and shipping.
Don't get me started on dealer prices to replace air filters... I replaced the engine air filter and cabin air filter on my Honda Pilot a few weeks ago. $15 in parts (free shipping) and maybe 20 mins. Dealer price? $59 + $79 + tax = $140 plus more time to drive there and come back.
It looks like your Brake Fluid reservoir is overfilled. I'd recommend removing some fluid until you get it down to the "Max" mark (on both sides of the unit - bring fluid to bottom of arrow). The reason I mention this is because I just recently filled mine like yours is, and shortly after, blew a seal in my ABS pump...
I could have told you that!
This being said, mine usually ride in the passenger seat/footwell... (much easier to get in and out of the car without trashing the back of the seat)
I changed my oil yesterday, 5,000 miles. I cut open my oil filter, no visible particles, looks clean. My magnetic drain plug had minimal deposits. Everything looks great. I have about 10k miles on my replaced IMS bearing. I am sending off for my second oil analysis.
Cool--another convert. Yep. Until I drove it, I thought the "there is no substitute" was a goofball marketing tag line. One pull up a curved onramp cured me of that misconception.
Saturday, I swapped out the leaking coolant return "pipe" (it's more of a coolant return octopus) to address my coolant drip. Also reinstalled the 200-cell cats and a couple of other minor odds and ends...
As they say on Wheeler Dealers, job done! The leak is gone, and the sounds created by combining an IPD plenum, 200 cell cats, and Fister mufflers is fantastic.
we installed the Light Saver Tail Light fix-- and it was great!
https://rennfix.com/products
Sharing a photo from the last photo-shoot (996C4S Cab and 996C4S with their siblings)
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I pulled out of a car wash, scraped the bottom of my front bumper on the ground and cracked it on the up side from the pressure ... ya what I did to my Porsche today was not a positive
Thanks Dranon. Window decal was from Suncoast. Yes Bill, I struggled with the right balance and looked through hundreds of images. I wanted a little different and somewhere between old-school 911 full stripes and new 991/2 RS tapering stripes. So less GT3 and more GT me. I’ll see how I like it with a little time. My wife will definitely be judging it for me.
I am new to the 996 world. I recently acquired a 1999 C2. Oh, before I start, thanks to the online communities of this site and Renntech. This would have taken much longer to accomplish without this valuable information being so readily available.
First thing I needed to do was to straighten out the pegged oil pressure gauge. Disconnected the wiring, wire brushed the connectors, sprayed contact cleaner on them and reconnected. Oil pressure gauge fixed!
Next, replace the ignition switch. Not before killing the 5 year old battery. So, now the switch is as it should be and a new battery is in place. Next, adjust the front lid. It was really hard to get it latched. It felt like i was going to dent the hood. Removed the latch and lubed with white lithium grease, now opens and closes as it should.
Next vacuum out the radiators. I am sure there is probably more in there, but I believe they are pretty good for now.
Next, change crankcase oil and oil filter. Grabbed an oil sample while I was at it. Opened the oil filter up and it looked pristine in there. Oil analysis report is pending.
Driver side window regulator needs replaced soon, the passenger side ASAP.
Transaxle gear lube is in the near future.
Check the air filter.
Eventually change the coolant.
There is always something to do around my place. And by the way, all this work is SO WORTH IT! I love driving this car!
Thanks,
Doug
Picked up my coupe today from the dealer, had 3 things done that were on the to-do list:
1) Plugs and Coils, had been 7 years since the last replacement, just for preventative maintenance
2) 2 new key fobs programmed! Dealer did it for cheap, blades from keys in the post (awesome to work with)
3) Center radiator installed (last track day, WOW it was hot, and my coolant temp was crazy high)
Now looking forward to the next track day to test the coolant temps!
Ratchet,
I did not take any pictures. Everything I learned was documented stuff on either this site or Renntech. The text and pictures at both locations were extremely helpful. Concerning my car, so far it seems to be a pretty good car. The interior and exterior finishes are in pretty good shape for a 20 year old car, especially one that apparently spent a good part of its lift in Montana. I probably could have been a little more studied up on the foibles of the 996, but so far I am very happy with the car.
I did my early morning Sunday drive along the west shore of Hood Canal today. I did not encounter any traffic in front of me either direction! Absolute heaven.
Doug
Doug
Met some new car people today and got to test Porsches acceleration in safe environment (not closed, but only one entrance behind us and completely straight road with nothing blocking vision). Mercedes guy is my old friend, and these others are his friends that I didn't know about.
Was fun to drive with other semi fast cars (200SX has ~300hp RB20, Golf was GTI model with some tuning and Merc has 250hp/600nm. Porsche was the fastest one, but 200SX gave it a good run.
Yesterday, but I digress... Installed IPD Competition plenum and 82mm GT3 Throttle Body... see here
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post16048347
Was drying my car after washing the bugs off from a moonlight drive and forgot the key was is the on position so I could raise the spoiler to clean it and now the battery is dead. My first chance to use the rear battery lug to charge the battery! Routing the engine compartment lid cable to below the rear taillight worked!
Met LN Engineering "Charles" at Car Week Monterey.
Nice guy.
He had a 20k mile IMSS from a car he did. Car failed, not from IMSB poisoning but Bore Scoring so it was being rebuilt. He offered owner a new IMSS so he could test and show the wear or lack of in this case of the IMSS.
Pretty cool to see no visible signs of wear.
While insanely expensive for a preventative maintenance (non performance upgrade) part it does eliminate the IMSB risk.
Thanks! It's Avery Dennissons Pearl Dark Green wrap. There are some older photos in this thread around page 90 (can't remember exact page and I'm on phone atm). But here's couple pics:
Personally I love how it seems to change color according to weather and lighting
Yesterday I plugged in the battery tender and I locked it in the garage.
Then I left on my first vacation in a LONG time.
I “forgot” to leave a key with our house sitter.
So now I can enjoy relaxing in San Antonio without having Risky Business nightmares.
He can drive the Mustang while we’re gone, but not my 911.
I finally got all the bits together to install my bike rack.
License plate flips up
1Up hitch rack installed and bike loaded
Side shot
Hitch Clamp Cross Clamp eliminates wobble
Another view of the SportTow receiver hitch, hitch extension and Cross Clamp
Another view of the SportTow receiver hitch, hitch extension and Cross Clamp
Can you get pulled over because your plate isn't visible? Cops around here don't seem to care much about missing
front
plates but a missing rear would definitely get their attention.
Where did you get these? I have the aluminum shift button and e-brake handle. Would compliment those well.
Are these them by chance?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/302760518446?ul_noapp=true
iI got mine here. Fast shipping. Watch out you can get polished or brushed aluminum. Order the one you prefer!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911...sAAOSw3jZdGNsT
Very cool - I�ve seen pictures of the rack but this is the first pic I have seen of one installed and in use. Will the rack also work with the hardtop installed?
Daryll
Spark plugs. Took 3-4 hours although alot of that was water breaks and reading and reviewing techniques online. #4 was the hardest but managed to get it eventually. Hardest part of #4 was getting the plug back in correctly.
I had no codes prior, just due for a change.
All about the same color.
I did not remove exhaust. Not real sure what you would gain unless you removed the passenger header. I do have fabspeed supercup exhaust which is quite a bit smaller than factory but it is the muffler bracket that gets in the way of the rear plugs.
Did a front and rear suspension refresh. Front shocks, shock mounting hardware, control arms, tie rod ends and sway bar links on the front, shocks and sway bar links on the rear and replaced a faulty oil pressure sender.
New Parts!
One side done!
Strut mount kaputski!
All the old stuff...
Almost all the parts were from FCP Euro, some were Porsche, some not. All shocks were Bilstein stock B4's. Rear shocks from Pelican. Paid around $2200 for all the parts. My indy was VERY reasonable!
I just need to get it aligned Wednesday.
All the credit goes to my indy, AMCPILOT! We were going to do it together today, but the parts came early and he worked Thursday night and all day Friday. He is amazing! And he only lives one mile from me! Can't beat that!
Totally different! Took it for a long test drive over roads I take every day for comparison, hitting every bump I could - car seems like it's riding on rails!
Also no "clunk" sound/feeling at all.
Doesn't pull, but it definitely needs to be aligned, scheduled for Wednesday AM.
New guy here at RL, enjoying my first 911. Coming from a long list of BMW cars. So today I removed the mufflers, installed a set of Forgestars19in, wheels bought from another member; also installed a set of D2 coilovers. Next on my list is to upgrade the front sway bar links along with new sway bars, rear upper control and toe arms.
I keep saying I am going to get a quick jack but haven't pulled the trigger yet. How do you like the Forgestars, I actually thought of getting the same model but 18 and a gold color.
Always had good experiences with Forgestars, build quality is on par with more expensive brands, fit is perfect, glossy black powdercoat, like black mirrors. I think they can be had with the deep concave version as well.
Get the quick jack! If for no other reason, it saves my back from certain doom.
Spent three hours flogging the car up through Julian, down into the desert, all over Borrego, and then back up the mountain and down to San Diego.
The car performed flawlessly, as always.
Can't wait for a new set of tires, going to ride these old ones out one more season and start fresh next year. Either going to get new wheels or have my current ones refinished.
Oil (DT 40) and filter change, new air cabin filter.
Hardest part of the job was getting the car up on the liftbars and removing/reinstalling the engine sump guard. Yea for spin-on filters!
Agree...now the only way to get it is through PTS option. I have a sand beige 912 that needs to be restored...my plan is when I do, I will paint it SY as well.
I'm glad you share my affinity for Speed Yellow! I think it's THE Porsche color for a 911! With beige interior, not black. Too hot down here for black.
I'm relatively new here (lurking forever, not many posts). Just replaced my '99 Aero C2's coolant reservoir for the
second
time in just a few months after Pelican sold me a defective one.
I'm getting pretty fast at the swap!
It just dawned on me that the language is, "free oil & filter change for life
of car
". It kind of seems like I should be getting free oil changes too.
That is an interesting point....I lived in Dallas for 21 years before moving here in the NW. While in Texas, all of my cars were beige or light gray interiors. Now almost all of the cars I have owned are black interiors. Somewhere along the line I made that subconscious change and never knew why...maybe this is why.
The nice thing with silver is the color will always be loved....SY is more trendy and will likely fall in and out of favor over time. Sort of like my Sand Beige 912...its an ugly color in my view but certainly had followers in its day.
I like SY so much better....RY seems paler to me....I love the depth of SY.
After completing a rigorous pre-drive checklist (I checked the oil level and chucked a gallon of distilled water behind the passenger seat), I logged 200+ miles in the 996 yesterday. I started in San Diego, headed up to Julian for breakfast, and then ripped down into Borrego for a couple of hours of tomfoolery. Ambient air temp was right about 100 degrees; it was nice to get a hard thrash on the car after working on the cooling system to confirm that everything is back at 100%.
Small world. I also planned to drive to Julian on Sunday. I had my house carpets cleaned on Friday with the expectation that I would put all the furniture back on Saturday. Unfortunately though, I ended up having to wait until Sunday for them to be completely dry. I didn't, however, have any plans to go to the desert floor. I'll admit that I'm turning into a heat wuss in my old age.
My old '70 911T left the factory with 'Silver Metallic' 39 years ago and it looks like it was an additional cost option back then too. At least Porsche is consistent.
Found my new favourite road 😄
Pretty small road without intersections, full of tight turns and hills, while still having pretty good visibility all the time.
Not you. Your post was fine.
I was trying to make a joke on your choice of words. You need to be a member to follow the link I posted. Here's the short-cut...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=IVlvnCOUqog
Using a Planted seat adapter bracket, very nice product, mounted my old Konig SP700 Seat. Heading to the track next week and it nets me about an inch of valuable head room. Carpet cleaner still damp.😎
I opened the frunk after being parked under a tree for three days. Damn, for a car with what seems to be have small panel gaps, sure were a lot of leaves in there!
Drove it for the first time in months and for the very first time without misfires in the nine months I've owned it!!!
(for those who weren't following the saga, this is the car from the "Baffling Fuel Injector Faults and Misfires" thread that vexed everyone for months and months. I only just picked it up today because I was waiting on AOS, coolant expansion tank, and oil pressure sensor replacements)
My wife and I took the car to the beach today for lunch at the Galway Bay Restaurant in Ocean Shores, WA. We took the looong way, via the Wynoochee Valley Road to the Wynoochee Dam and then on to the beach. ALL back roads going out. 237 mile round trip. The car ran great. Had a tiny bit of rain while in the mountains, but only enough to have to use the wipers occasionally. I will have to get up early tomorrow and wash the car. What a great drive.
Amen. These cars are meant to be driven. I changed the air filter to K and N, new center caps and Porsche fitted rubber mats. Then I drove it like it wanted.
Glad you like your car. Maybe read up on the k&n filters: the oil kills MAF sensors, and if it is their "cold air intake" ask yourself where the cold air is coming from (hint: it is a hot air intake and is robbing power).
Agree with CDS, and to add, "the reason why those filters give a little more power is because they don't filter the small particles that a normal filter does."
I do NOT want find particles that Porsche didn't want in my engine floating around in the combustion chamber to do damage.
Long list after 3 months of owner ship on my C4S......
But today replaced my CATs after I thru a code.
The old OEMs after taking off and shaking sounded like big rattle cans.
Replaced with a set of SOUL cross overs....did not want the X-pipe as I've read there could be a bit of low end power lost.
Keeping the OEM exhaust for now.....sound is perfect now.
Stopped my cabrio top squeaking by applying some
Gummi Pflege to the seals. Stopped my suspension squeak by spraying AT-205 on my shock top mounts. Gonna miss those little squeaky bastards ... not.
My stock mufflers have rattling baffles so I scored both used stock mufflers and used fabspeed maxflows. I sourced new connection clamps for the mufflers and tips, but didn�t count on both short bracket bolts breaking, so I bought those on auction site tonight. I�m gonna coat everything in copious amounts of copper anti-seize schmoo on the reinstall and hopefully she�ll be a skookum choocher in a few days. In the mean time, I�ll ignore the weeping oil that may be a RMS future situation.
Removed the manual tray from below the steering wheel. I tried pushing the pressure clips in but after exerting enough force to seemingly put a hole in my hand, I gave up and grabbed a drill. I started a 3/32's and work my way up until they gave way. Probably took 5 minutes. I'll fill the holes with caps that I'll color match with satin latex paint at some point soon.
2004 996
I moved my 996 off the top rack to load my coyote swap Mustang Cobra for storage while engine harness work is being done.
Good news is now I will drive my 996 a little more.
I attended the annual PCA concourse here in Nashville. I thought the fee was to attend, not compete. So I was a bit confused (and embarrassed) when they directed me to park amongst the cars to be judged. Sure, I care for my car like it�s a much newer more desirable 911, but a concourse winner? Nope. Regardless I parked, got out and looked around. A few hours later they announced the winners, and holy crap, I won 1st place overall in the 996 category beating out many (much nicer) TT��s. And of course, I celebrated with a spirited romp home - woohoo!
Nailed it
Loving the color. Shows a nice red in the sun, burgundy with a little purple in the shade and at night.
Always wanted an �aubergine� porsche so this hits the spot!
Amazing! Looking equally fresh!!!
Mine has a build date of March 11, 1998. Any chance they used the same can of paint on yours?!
I�ve had mine for a little less than a month so we�ll have to stay in touch and compare notes. 29k right now. Low Temp Thermostat and IMSB replaced, but otherwise stock. Yours looks like it has 18�, is that right?
I installed a center radiator, low temp thermostat and new water pump, along with a new full coolant replacement. No leftover parts - always a victory for me! Made and installed a grill for the center radiator.
Probably a few cans of paint between our cars. Mine is 7/98 build. Yours is kind of a spring chicken compared to mine, about to turn over 80K. I�m pretty sure original IMSB, but just had a pristine oil analysis, so feeling pretty good about it. I�m pretty sure everything else is stock. Defiantly has the original passenger side window regulator- needs replaced baaaad.
You are correct, 18� Twists.
That looks great!
Can you tell me what is going on with your 12v socket? I see a USB cable running from it. What is it powering?
Also, is that a phone holder in front of the shifter? Can you tell me/us more about it? I just did the GT3 console delete in my Targa and that would be a cool thing to have.
That is indeed a phone holder. I designed it myself and printed it. The USB cable is powering the wireless charger that is built into the phone holder. I reverse engineered the original GT3 part and then modeled in my phone to how I wanted it. Fits my iPhone XS perfectly. Found some paint that matches graphite grey perfectly and volia.
Inside of it is the wireless charging pad that I cannibalized from a cheap amazon wireless charger. I printed it a few times on my Form2 printer to get it right. I've had some interest from people wanting to do the same, but honestly it just costs a fortune. I don't use the typical FDM printer because they suck for applications like this. I prefer SLS Nylon or SLA like my Form2 due to the snap fits, but it makes it pretty expensive, costs me about $100 in material just to print since I'm using a higher grade of engineering resins to handle the heat, and takes 15 hours to print. The part is still fairly fragile, so I'm hesitant to sell any to others since it may break during install or during removal, along with the whole process of color matching, phone sizes, etc.
However I absolutely love it in my car.
I might revisit it again later to make it a bit more modular, or at least the phone holder only to fit different phone sizes and be cheaper to print. For myself personally I absolutely wanted the wireless charging. Combine that with the bluetooth installed on the CDR220 and it's like having decent infotainment for navigation (absolutely crucial for me in downtown Chicago), pandora, etc.
I'd love something like that too. There's no good place to put a phone and keep it useful for navigation or BT music once you go to GT3 console removal and similar solutions.
Cleaned out the radiators and condensers today. A month or so ago I vacuumed them out through the bumper scoops. You can’t tell how much garbage is in there until you pull the bumper cover. The radiators were plastered with garbage. It should run a little cooler now, I would think.
Are there any after market bumper scoop screens available for 99 C2’s?
Drove mine down to the Freightliner dealership to see how much #4 radiator is gonna cost. Radiator free....labor $2800.
So far invested $10k in radiators alone in the last 2 years.
Took some photos with the car finally the way I want it (for now) after two years. Exclaimer: I do reserve the right to change anything and everything at the drop of my Porsche hat, because nothing is permanent. I have to remind my wife of that often enough. The glamour shots help me help her understand that a great car is art. I hope it keeps working for her!!
Love the 996 windshield and roofline!
Stance with Eibachs, 19s and M030 ROW.
Took my exhaust tips off and cleaned them. I'm sure it's the first time in 16 years! They were so disgusting.
Used Bar Keepers Friend and a green scrubby pad, and LOTS and LOTS of scrubbing!
Im usually not a big fan of upgraded wheels on a C4S but I must admit this model really makes you think the 996 is 'recent'.
Most people are surprised when I tell them my stock C4S is an 02'... imagine with theses wheels.
Look really good.
I got it inspected. (That includes emissions)
Now I can swap out the cats for my Fabspeed catless x-pipe.
Next inspection will be due 11/30/2020.
I also dropped off my headlights to have the headlight covers re-painted to match.
So I now I'll look like a "regular" 996.2 until they're finished middle of next week.
These are being repainted: (They're close, but NOT close enough)
Prepped for a German car show tomorrow in Boerne Texas, cleaned the door hinge areas, gas cap area, and engine with 303. Looks fantastic!
I'll post some pics tomorrow night and let you know how I did. I'll be competing against Mercedes, BMW's, and VW's, and a few other Porsches.
A few weeks back I was driving down the interstate at a brisk pace and would occasionally get a slight vibration or shimmying in the steering wheel. Last week I took the car in to have the tires balance and gat called into the shop and the tech showed me my bent rim(s) Both passenger side rims had flat spots! Today I was able to get the front wheel straightened and when I took the car out this evening I could tell a big difference. Nice and smooth. Will have the rear wheel straightened next week as well.
1999 911 996 with Oz Racing wheels.
Thanks for the kind words! And I agree � OEM hollow spokes are great, so most aftermarket options are a lateral move at best. Unfortunately my car had 19� 997 Carerra classics on it when I bought it. They were also bent and NB fitment so they got tossed in favor of some black Forgestar 19�s. But a Rennlist member screwed me as they were not straight and not fixable. Didn�t know that until I had sourced new rubber at all 4 corners. So, I bought these new to use until my tires are done and then I had planned to find oem hollow spokes. Thing is, these look a lot better than I had anticipated, so I�m in no rush to buy a third set of wheels for the car, lol. And yes, I think these give the car a bit more of a current look to it.
The car was due for an oil change so I also did the oil pressure relief upgrade that I read about here.
The 'upgrade' looks like the original except the new piston has a chamfer on the end.
The old oil looked pretty good.
The drain plug magnet looked good and after cutting open the filter, the pleats looked clean too.
Oil sample for Blackstone.
Fresh oil. Nothing but the best for my baby.
I've been meaning to relocate the emergency engine compartment release to the bottom edge of the taillight and finally did it today.
I moved it further outboard after that^ picture was taken. I put a dental pick in the door pocket so I have something to grab it with.
I know oil is always a controversial topic but I'm one of those guys who thinks being fanatical about changing it every 5-6 years is more important than any particular brand.
Installed the ROW M030 kit over the past week. When I purchased my 996 the PO had purchased the kit but never installed it. The kit only came with rear bump stops so I also replaced the front bump stops and the f/r bellows. Replaced the drop links (OEM) as well since i had the old ones off to replace the sway bars. The strut perches were in good shape so i reused those. Car has 54k miles.
I didn't take real accurate measurements, just tape measured to the top of the wheel arches, but looks like the front is about 3/8 inch lower and the rear 1/8 lower. Not a real noticeable rougher ride but much less body roll, my wife thought it rode better than stock. So that's always a plus!
Then took a drive on the local twisties and smiled!
Took my mom out on a birthday drive and ended up on a flat bed about two miles into it. It appears the alternator somehow came loose/fell off, shredding the (new) serpentine belt in the process. All I know is when I popped the engine cover the alternator was hanging down and totally loose. Waiting to hear from the shop how much damage to the wallet it's going to do.....
Well a few months back I painted the rims black and covered the emblems in vinyl, but since I had to leave the car for college my buddy took the car out for a drive and got it gas and a nice detailing job
Oil and filter change
Mailed off my UOA
R&R a control arm link(old one was loosey-goosey, but not the cause of my front end noise
Ordered all new control arms and links(with poly urethane bushings) --I'll get that noise yet!
Finally got my spare rear tire mounted on my spare rear wheel (Owned the tire for 2 years and the wheel for at least one)
Got my headlights back from the body shop. The paint now matches much better. Used to be Much darker, now they look a little lighter.
Oil and filter change with Mobil One.
changed oil filter.
cleaned the reads of leaves and debris.
dyed the convertible top dark blue with RIT dye. Painted it on and looks new!
Overall check front to back. Car looks great and operates perfectly put a little over 4000 miles on since the spring.
- Cleaned out the drainage wells in the front by the battery, were not blocked at all but better to check.
- Vacuumed the interior and found the cigarette lighter under the passenger seat. Was excited because it was in the pictures on the listing for the car but when I purchased it it was mysteriously missing, dash looks complete now! If I had found the spare key under the seat too it would have been a GREAT day!
Replaced the frunk hood struts.
Cleaned out all the drains,front and back.
Put in a new gas cap with tether
Bought but didn't yet install the Ruf Pedals set.
Replaced the ignition switch. After 45 minutes on my back trying to replace it and getting no closer to actually loosening the two screws, I popped over to my Indy and he knocked it out in 20 minutes. Now I can get my key in and out normally again and I don't have all the weird electrical bugs. .
The ignition switch replacement is one of those that once you get it, it�s easy. Also helps to have the right tools. I too spent more time than I wanted in an uncomfortable position with only my stubbornness to aid me. I feel the next time it will be easier.
Let it spend some time with it's elders.
Put winter wheels and tires on. After owning this C4S for a few years it is becoming a mostly DD.
Installed the Dension Compact BT today as well.
After my last track weekend last week, it was time to take my 996 to it's storage facility. So stopped by the ethanol free station with my friend and put in some seafoam for the winter. His gt3 looks great.
Oil change today. Driven DT40 5w40 again with NAPA Gold filter. [LN Engr spin on adapter.] I think I'm getting too old for this
I used to love doing my own changes, but this car, and advancing age, taxes my abilities. This change I did at home with ramps, and I found the hard way that the oil drains a lot faster than my fancy oil drain pan / recycle container can handle. After the change was complete I got out the Bix Driveway Cleaner and a stiff broom to scrub it down. I've had more than enough fun for today.
Your killing me, it�s all right there, lol. I�m guessing you are lower than stock. I hope to be soon, but at stock height, it�s the easiest oil change of any car I�ve ever owned. I have two identical 8qt pans I put next to each other on a piece of cardboard and it it keeps spillage to a minimum. I share your choice of spin on filter and DT40 though, so kudos there and for doing it yourself, keep it up
I wish I knew of an ethanol free station of 92+ octane fuel. I can find ethanol free OK, only its 87 octane. I think you are in Washington state, as am I. Where did I you fuel up this time?
I was able to get a little done this weekend. Cleaned the MAF sensor last night. I took the car for a short local cruise this morning after the roads dried off from the morning shower. Then I put the car on the Quickjacks and drained the crankcase and the transaxle. New fluids make the old girl happy. I guess new fluids make me happy too.
Doing some reading about the engine compartment fan and how it works I found out mine seems to run way more than it should. This prompted me to take a look at the sensor. On my 03 C4S it should be between the intake runners on the right side. It wasn’t where it was supposed to be. I dug around and found it hanging down in quite a bit closer to the engine than it is supposed to be.
I pulled the grommet out and disconnected the sensor to make it fit easier back into the grommet, but that made it harder to put the sensor in the grommet back where it belongs. A little lubricant did help, but it was a very snug fit.
Glad I finally found out that isn’t normal. I have been driving it all summer that way.
What is that jack holding up? Also, when using ramps for your oil change, make sure you also lift the front so the engine is level when draining and filling the oil! And, yes - the oil comes out fast and splashes...if it's hot, watch out - you can get some nice burns or worse yet get it in your eyes... Phwew - these cars are deadly!
Bought it Friday, spent $1,000 at Suncoast on Saturday, paint correction and polished on Sunday. Next is wheel refurbishing, including color change to Satin Platinum for a little contrast.
Of course. It's a 6-sp '99 with 88k miles. LN Eng. IMSB was completed @ 77k miles by S Car Go in San Rafael, CA. It has OEM Litronic Xenons but I don't see them on the build sheet so one of the prior owners must have added them. Interior is in great shape. There's a tiny hole in the rear passenger side seat, the size of a grain of rice. Here are some interior pics from the prior owner. I'll post some more once cleaned up. I've already remove the Pep-Boys style pedals and awaiting OEM rubber from Suncoast.
Michelin Pilot Sport 2s go on tomorrow. Interested to see how they stack up against 5+ year old Sumitomos lol... The guy at Discount Tire asked me twice if I was sure I wanted these tires since they only have a 20k mile warrant, and I said well yeah! For whatever reason their system is wrong in showing the PS4s fit on the C4S, and the rears being 285/30. Tire Rack has it right with 295/30 so I had to special order the PS2s.
Yes, they had them in stock and tried to sell them to me, but the 285/30s are smaller than OEM for the rears, so I didn't want that. IIRC, 285/30 is stock for the C2 and C4 but for C4S and Turbo it's 295/30. I had 225/40 and 295/30 on them already and it was just fine. I could have gone for 235/40 up front but OEM sizes has been good so far. I can see how you could throw 305s on in the back and it still look good.
I'm pretty easy on my tyres, even when on track so I'm not too worried honestly and I told the sales guy that. I put maybe 5-6k miles a year on my car, so I will move this car on before the tyres run out.
I feel like this is a safe space and no one would judge me so here we go... Today I vacuumed behind my tail lights! Took the lights off to replace de-laminated amber bulbs and was surprised to find plenty of fine sand. So I vacuumed and wiped down with detailing spray before reassembly.
PJM,
Enjoy your nice 996. I hope you have as much fun making it suit you as I did with mine. Why wouldn’t you get back behind those lights to clean and control future sources of corrosion? Sand abraids and abrasion leads to corrosion and corrosion leads to..........Ha! Everyone thought I was gonna say bore scoring! K, you’re all correct because
everything
leads to bore scoring. Unless IMS failure gets you first.
All joking aside, welcome to the madness.
I got rid of my squeaky control arms.
New coffin arms, control arm links and sway bar bushings.
My 18 year old 996 drives like a new car!
One of the coffin control arms was a �ro that I installed in November 2017.
It started making noise a few weeks ago.
It lasted 25,000 miles.
I replaced it with another �ro.
They just run $85 each and Amazon delivered them the next day.
Very easy to replace too.
I drove it the scenic route to Harbor Fright. The Cayenne's AC compressor bit the dust last week and I was shocked at the estimates I was getting to have it replaced. I admit I'm out of touch with pricing because I try to do all my own wrenching and haven't taken a car to a shop since the '90s, but still...
I saw Dharn55's post in another thread yesterday and it inspired me to try the job myself. I bought a vacuum pump and manifold/gauge set that with a running sale and a 20% coupon, I saved $52.00 and got out of the door for under $200.00.
Sometimes I take a picture before I go into a store when driving a cool car because it seems like no matter how far away from the entrance I park, there is some idiot crowding my space when I come out.
CW - nice looking kit. Can you provide a
ballpark figure
on the cost? I will want to replace my suspension in the next year or so. Having adjustable ride-height, is something I would really like.
Which brings me to a very important question, for my needs: Is it possible to increase ride-height
above stock
, with this kit?
Finally got a decent hand wash, after my front bumper, hood, front panels and rear bumper respray. Still deciding if I should do roof, doors, rear panels or if a paint correction, etc. would work fine. Rocking the Michelin PS2s also, which I'll keep saying are simply fantastic. I cannot wait to hit the track with these compared to the Sumitomos. Not factory fresh but getting close, at least on the exterior! Interior needs some love and few fixes, but it doesn't really bother me much.
I know a great, and not overly expensive, detailer that can correct and apply Kenzo ceramic coating.
He is down near 59 & 610 though.
I run my Michelin Pilot Sport 4S year around.
They're great tires for down here.
In the Houston area, they ARE all-seasons.
The Road and Track kit was about $2700 on sale from Rallysport direct...but shipped direct from Ohlins US
New top hats and bearings all around plus a few new washers were $1100
Don't think you can make it taller than stock infact I think at its tallest setting it maybe be a few mm shorter than stock.
The car looks great. I can't really see any flaws in those panels in the photos, so it's difficult to have an opinion about what, if anything, should be done. I would definitely not respray them unless there is something awful we can't see. What specific issues do you see in those panels (roof, doors, etc)?
Do his initials happen to be BC? If so, I know exactly who that is, and have used him many times in the past, just haven't gotten my 911 down to him, as it took me almost 1.5 to get my front end resprayed, it really needed it! I plan to visit him before the Porsche Festival event next month, if he can fit me in...
Are you doing the DE event at MSR in December? Not sure if they're running CW or CCW, prefer the latter.
And yes, these tyres are great so far. I drive our Audi A4 when I'm going long distances or when it's really bad weather, so being able to use this car 98% of the year is fantastic!
Yeah, I purposefully didn't take pics of the roof and the rear upper panels to either side of the rear window (whatever you'd call that, sorry can't think of the name exactly), there are some thru the finish scratches that need to be done. When it's clean like this, you really kind of gloss over it but if my detail guy can't get it out, I am considering it. But, it won't really add any value to the car so probably will let it go. The front fender was really peppered, and the hood had some dents from prior owner slamming the frunk when there was too much luggage that popped up, so the parts I notice on the car look really nice now. Headlights need another once-over too.
Flip over function of driver's sunvisor almost froze very difficult to rotate. Open Cab roof off windshield frame, with small screwdriver pop off access plug, Torx 30 socket remove two screws visor comes off, shot of WD-40 into visor arm, then tell the Commander price of new tools less than mechanic charge for repair.
Gas station pump clicks off early difficult to tell if tank full. Break pump hose seal by pulling back on outer hose or rotating nozzle 180 degrees; both allow tank to fully fill then get click but kind of lame.
Product available to permanently break pump hose seal gonna try it:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...s=0&SVSVSI=909
Proper fix may be a valve needs to be replaced that sits on top of the fuel fill pipe:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...s=0&SVSVSI=909
Yep, that�s the guy!
If I can get the time to change out my AOS I might do the DE. If not, it will be late December- early January before I�ll have a chance.
Took it out for a Sunday drive (on Friday morning) Oil level showed top bar cold. Checked dip stick and right in the middle.
Nice to have the manual stick.
Today I left it for my wife to drive, so I could drive the minivan.
I need the hauling capacity of the minivan for work today.
Wife just texted me she missed a shift and "over revved it."
Of course that doesn't necessarily mean it was over redline.
I'll check it with my Durametric late tonight when I get home.
I guess I need to practice saying, "yes dear, you broke my 911 and now I have to send it to Flat6 to have it repaired" with a straight face and no excitement in my voice.
Actually the hardest part would be the wait...and the POS I'd have to buy to drive in the meantime.
Update: No overrevs. So I guess I‘ll be waiting a little longer to get on Jake‘s list.
Looks like I‘ll be retiring before too long. I’d like to get my engine rebuilt once I’m no longer commuting.
Kenwood Double Din install in my 2004 with the Bose MOST. I bought everything from CAI and they were great to deal with. Came with a MOST converter they've had good luck with. I haven't driven it yet but everything seems to be working.
Looks a bit like what I did
today
yesterday. Had my stereo out to add a USB extension. Now I'll have about 2000 of my favorite songs on call, instead of the 250 or so from my favorite CD.
Oh, and I can leave my
LeMans
DVD in the slot and still have my music available at any time.
Now I need to find some black paint to cover that annoying white button...
Good to here.
I refuse to teach my wife to drive a stick With the 996) and will never let anyone take my car for a drive...Just to much for me to lose!
The last time I let someone drive my HIPO VW and he ground so many gears, I almost kicked him out of my car!!
I taught my wife to drive a stick decades ago in my 1987 VW Scirocco 16V.
Then she never wanted an automatic again.
Now after 18 year with an automatic, she is just out of practice.
I needed her minivan, so I left her the 996.
After she thought she overrevved it by missing a shift, she brought it home and took the 2006 Ford Mustang.
She has decided she wants a smaller vehicle now.
She said the Porsche and the Mustang are easier to park.
So we may shop for a smaller vehicle once all of our medical bills are taken care of.
Then I might get truck (Raptor?) for a spare vehicle.
Went to flush the gearbox and the magnetic drain plug is totally stripped (and way over-tightened). Fill plug loosened easily enough.
Does anyone have the part number for the magnetic transmission drain plug for a 6-spd manual '99 C2? I found this
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...BoChKYQAvD_BwE
, but it seems to only be for 996 turbos and GT3s.
Took a drive Saturday morning. The sunrise was stunning. I had to stop and take a picture, even though I knew traffic would bypass me. The picture was worth it.
Could you PM me the parts list from CAI about this? My radio is starting to become intermittent and since I plan to keep it the next ~2 yrs, I probably need a head unit upgrade...
Not today...but the last few days..this is what has been going on:
1.- Drained all the coolant
2.- Removed water pump
3.- Removed thermostat
4.- Removed heater core (this entails removing another load of stuff)
5.- Removed the dreaded foam spewing vent flap
...Soon will be:
1. Installing new water pump
2. Installing new thermostat
3. Installing back the flap (after "fixing" it)
4.- Installing new heater core (and then installing all the stuff that had been taken off to get to it)
5.- Refilling the cooling system with new coolant
Then go for a drive and enjoy.......
How did they determine the MOST converter would work? I have a 2003 with MOST and was told by Tore at BergvilleFX that theirs would not work for my car. Still trying to determine if that's an avenue I could go with or if I need to replace the amp as well.
Friday was pick up the car after it was down two weeks due to the alternator bracket breaking.
Yesterday was picking up $1,000 of various trim pieces, hardware, etc from the dealer to replace pieces that are mysteriously missing/broke on the car.
I ordered on on Amazon. It says that it works on specific Mercedes models. This one.
XTRONS Optical Fiber Head Unit Replacement Decoder for Mercedes-Benz ML/GL/R Series
Amazon
Amazon
I replaced the scratched Savannah beige center console to this black one. Did the same for the ignition key hole trim as well. All the rest of the scratched areas, I repainted with Porsche spray paint by LVP Refinisher.
Installed Comp plenum from IDP as well as Sharkwerks Vflow Air intake and tuning. Currently installing LN IMS solution kit for peace of mind.
Interior of 2004 911 Cab.
Did my first oil change today....oil only had 1200 miles....season is done. All the toys, bowrider, fishing boat, dock are asleep. Atv and Jeep are driven throughout the winter. Can hardly wait until April!
This is what I've heard/read also. Thought we had to replace the full amp system, which from CAI is over $1k, not including stereo, etc. so hadn't done it yet. Seems difficult to get a clear answer on this for whatever reason.
The lift comes with an extra set of hands, an experienced tech with all the tools in the shop should I need something, so why not? I can wait...But, I sure am anxious to get this done.
Right now I'm dealing with a stripped T-stat bolt
yesterday i drove my 03 c4s for 50 miles through a ferocious thunder storm. felt myself slightly hydroplaning a few times as i changed lanes, and i kept my hands on the wheel tighter then during my HPDE laps. Think its time to replace the summer tires.
I took off the winter wheels (POs scratched up 18" carrera 2s with continentals) with some new Sport Classic wheels for the fall. Solid purchase that I got on CL. Wheels in great shape with almost brand new tires all around. I'll plan on refinishing the 18s and throw them back on in January/Feb when we get snow.
I installed new motor mounts.
The old ones, dated 2015, were not too bad, but since I'm replacing all the bushings in the suspension, I figured I should do the motor mounts too.
Old ones are on the ends, 1 new one in the middle.
I'm missing 2 of the rear control arms, so I couldn't install the rear suspension today, so I installed my Fabspeed cattless x-pipe & minicats that I've had since last April.
I also installed new O2 sensors.
The sound was great!
Exactly what I was hoping for.
(This is my daily driver, so I need it to be quiet while in stop and go traffic, but to scream when I floor it)
I think with the Fabspeed Maxflow mufflers and Fabspeed intake it sounds like a GT3 in higher RPM.
The car really starts to pull about 3500rpm.
Supposedly there is less torque, but I couldn't tell.
It surprised me by spinning the tires (Michelin Pilot Sport 4S) in first gear at about 10mph.
it really revs better.
I hit redline and it was still pulling until I hit the rev limiter.
Surprised me that it was at redline!
Well worth the money I paid for it used from a Rennlister.
The stock cats are
HEAVY
compared to the catless x-pipe.
I doubt I'll ever get to a dyno, so you'll just have to accept my butt dyno, which is of course the most important dyno!
I have aftermarket (Fabspeed Maxflow) mufflers and Fabspeed Catless x-pipe.
I have the mini-cats to prevent CEL.
I also have a Fabspeed intake, and a GT3 throttlebody on one of Ben�s plenums.
I�ll try to get a cold start video tomorrow.
My Speed Yellow 996 with winter new tires and wheels displayed at Eurofest in Greenville yesterday.
Shod with Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3+ tires for the winter driving season.
First oil change on the new to me 996. Went well. Inspected the filter and dint find any metal flakes or debris. Filled it back up with Motul 5w40. Went for a drive.
Finally finished the install on the Ohlins R&T.
Two weekends because I'm slow and I like to clean.
Making sure setup is correct.
Also replaced the 15yo+ top mounts.
Not sure yet if I'm going to need new end links.
First side always takes 3x longer than the other
note: photos show my progress and are not complete
.
That is nice.
I need to do some homework and find a suspension kit that will allow for a little lift. I did a quick look at the upper shock mounts today - and it may be possible to insert spacers between them and the body. Would need to work out the stud length issue and understand the alignment implications. Looks feasible, though.
My work, today, was much less glorious. I found the reason that washer fluid was not reaching the windshield. The hose came off the nipple. And if you've ever had your hose come off the nipple, you know how painful that can be...
You'll have to visit the 125,000 mile tune-up thread to get the rest of the story.
you also add the thicker rubber pad spacer between the top mount bearing and spring perch to add height if needed.
I�ve seen 3.0mm and 6.0mm pads available.
not sure what you could do on the rear.
I just did the brakes for the first time on my 996. Pagid disks and Akebono pads. I haven't put many miles on them yet, but I'm happy with the initial impression.
I also, swapped the stock turbo twists onto the car for the first time since I bought it. They don't have nearly the presence of my 19s, but the steering is so much lighter and more responsive, I just might keep them on.
Zero dust from our Akebono pads night and day difference from whatever was previously on there, result real easy to clean complex wheels. Interested to see how your coated disks look after a few months of water exposure, our Zimmermans are rust free except inside the drilled holes.
That's very intriguing. Do you have more information, or a link, to find these pads?
In my brief inspection of the rear, it looks as though the same idea would apply. Getting an additional 6+mm of clearance is an attractive proposition.
That looks real nice. I'd even be so bold as to go with black. Not just to **** off the haters - but because I would like the look.
I'm trying to decide whether to go with that (gun metal?) of black for my winter wheels. Either way - if I draw the ire of the "purists", I don't give a damn.
Just finished installing a new water pump and thermostat......that bolt on the bottom right of the water pump (and one of the thermostat housing) must have been designed by Lucifer himself....even though my gut was telling me to use gasket sealant...I did not use it....I torqued those bolts to 7 ft-lb like the manual says...I will be an angry individual if a leak develops....
The 3.0mm pad is part # 99634351100 and is meant for standard suspension.
The 6.5mm pad is part # 99634351101 and is meant for Sport Suspension cars.
I bought mine from AutohausAZ but they seem readily available elsewhere. BTW, this is only for the front.
I'm no purist, I just think black wheels are played out
and
look like crap.
Good stuff. I'll dig into this. Haven't looked yet, but I wouldn't be surprised if the same idea could be applied to the rear. Just have to try to duplicate material and fabricate to match the rear interface.
Don't make me come over there...
With very rare exceptions, I dislike black wheels also. Nothing "purist" about it. To me, black wheels just visually detach the wheels from the car. You see a car, and you see wheels, but they don't seem visually integrated at all. Silver wheels blend with virtually any car color, that's why virtually all car companies almost universally use silver wheels. Everyone should definitely do whatever pleases them, my only point is that I don't think most people object to black wheels because they are "purists". I might be wrong, but I think it's because black wheels typically create a less integrated overall look for the car.
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I was looking at some pics of my suspension install and remembered there
is
a variable for the rear. There is a part that Porsche calls a 'spring insulator' that comes in a 4mm and 0.5 mm thickness. I don't remember which is which though.
0.5mm 996-333-511-02
4mm 996-333-511-03
I'm hunkered down in my wheel fort with the drawbridge up. Bring it!
OK - a little food for thought. It looks as though the parts you have identified exist, standard, in one form or the other as part of each assembly. For my needs, if the shorter parts are installed, the taller ones will provide a little lift (3.5 mm delta). From the diagrams, they are installed between the spring and the upper mount (which I believe has been pointed out). Not exactly earth moving, but a nice start. This of course assumes I have the small ones to begin with.
Regardless, it will take disassembly (or at least very close inspection) to determine what I have now. I still think that putting spacers between the body and the upper mounts may be my best bet for significant change.
Thanks for the P/Ns.
I did this last week and wound up having to take it apart again. The previous owner must have helped to start stripping that bolt hole...Heli coil to the rescue!
I just returned from a 30 mile drive. Pulled off the freeway and there was a 99 cab behind me with a 50ish woman driving it.
We reached a stoplight and she waved. I asked, "Is it a '99?"
She says, "Yes!"
Me - "Mine too."
Her - "I looove it!"
Finally had a nice weekend to upgrade the cooling system. All new CSF side radiators and center radiator. Updated and replaced hoses and clamps as needed too.
I got them finger tight, then half turn with the wrench....then I pulled the little torque wrench and torqued them to about 84-86 inch pounds each (7 ft/lb, in a "star" pattern), then installed the belt and all the other stuff.....I have not refilled the system with coolant....probably that task will be done this weekend....
I decided to go really easy on the turns, because I read your post on the stripped bolt installing the thermostat....I made sure I stopped right after the click of the torque wrench.....may be another 1/16-1/8 of a turn (hence the 86 inch pounds)...
Bolt from hell.
Until I discovered it was much more easily accessed from above, I felt the same way.
I've narrowed my choices down to two. Just ordered two new cans of paint.
Hmmm. "Impure Black" or "Angelic Silver"?
Which will you choose?
Not trying to sway it any particular way mind you
, just trying to impartially sum up the options.
Needless to say, you shouldn't care about what I or anyone else thinks. If you really want opinions though, you could photoshop wheel color options on photos of your car and create a thread with a poll.
What about the Titanium color that OZ uses? That seems like it would look awesome with your metallic blue paint.
Something like this ...
https://www.ozracing.com/alloy-wheels/oz-racing/i-tech/indy-hlt
Drove it to work today- quickly- with the windows down since it's finally cool in TX. Loved every second. What is it about our cars that make people drive like maniacs... Honda FIT, your car needs to just calm the frekk down already.
The link doesn't take me to what you intended. This happens with Tire Rack. There is enough information there to find it though. That color is not much different than the "Graphite" that Dupli-Color offers. Which is what I am going with.
Opinions are welcome, but there is no need for a poll. My mind is made up. I have to live with myself regardless of the decision...
The black was not applied properly to get full coverage. As you point out, the impure, is due to some of the chrome showing through. All of this experimental paint will need to be stripped off anyway when I prep the wheels for real. Still exploring options on removing the chrome, or at least scuffing it sufficiently to promote good adhesion.
By the way, this doesn't take you off my list, buddy.
You're right -- TireRack makes it impossible to link or even download/reference one of their photos. I edited the thread to use OZ racing link/photo.
Graphite should be great! This video might help with the Chrome -- discusses removing a chrome finish from BBS wheels and then applying Dupli-Color Graphite (not sure why he bothered with silver -- seems like a mistake since he went over it with graphite).
You Tube
I meant "impure" as "inspired by the devil" -- you know, trying to be totally impartial and all
Well, if being right is wrong, then I don't wanna be right.
Wait, I guess that doesn't really work.
I've done other wheels using the Dupli-Color system. The results have been good. This is the first time I've had to deal with chrome plating. I will try the red! nozzle on my power washer and see if that does anything. Otherwise, I may need to find a specialist that provides a blasting service. I was actually surprised how effective my scuff was when I messed with it last night.
Sorry the angel/ devil stuff was lost on me. Glad you explained it though.
I'll save the devil's paint for my summer wheels.
Beautiful fall day for doing some work in the garage. Put my spacers on, happy with the way they look. Also totally took one of the front wheels off, cleaned the hub up a bit and put the wheel back on without the spacer.
Yes, it is the bolt from hell. I couldn't get a socket it on it so I had to use an open end wrench and turn it 1 billionth of a turn, 20 billion times. Someone said you could use a thin wall socket on it. I'll try that the next time.
I'll let you in on a little secret. Don't tell anyone.
Use a 1/4" drive ratchet, a little u-joint adapter and a 10mm socket. Here's the secret - have at it from above (obviously the engine support plate needs to be loose from the engine).
Lucifer (or someone related)...designed it....
In the meantime...glad to report that after several hot cycles....not a drop of coolant, no leaks...knock on wood.....but have needed to continually top off, as it continues to burp (driving around with the burp thingy up)
I also found out my driver side radiator fan is not cycling the slow speed...already ordered "el cheapo" 0.5ohm 100 Watt resistors from Amazon...they get home on Saturday...also ordered a new serpentine belt...I did not like the looks of the old one
Thanks!
No build thread yet. Lights were originally halogen. I fabricated a dual plane mounting bracket that attaches to the 3 factory attachment points in order to still be able to use the factory adjustments.
The lenses were wet-sanded all the way down with 600/800/1000/1500 then back to 800. I taped off the outer edge of the light and laid down a few coats of satin black, pulled the tape and hit the tape edge with 800 grit. Then applied several coats of 2k clear, allowed sufficient cure time and then wet-sanded 1000/1500/2500/3000 and did a 3 step polish/buff.
It wasn't done in the previously posted pics, but i took the triangles apart to paint the inside black to match the housing, and then applied the same edge painting and clear as above.
Early/rough "proof of concept" execution of the mounting frame. I've since drawn up in CAD and will be getting them plasma cut.
Some early test-fitting.
Proof of concept paint technique
Took my car out on some nice twisty roads not far from my house for probably the last top-down drive this year. No traffic so was able to push it a little bit and remember just how well these cars drive. I’m still always impressed with how “light” a 996 feels, and how fast it is. Amazing for a 21 year old car!
Based on our weather forecast I may put the hard top on it in the next few days...
Daryll
I removed the dash and heater / ac evaporator box. Taped the flaps and reinstalled the box. Now I have to wait on some parts to do the dash with a glove box update.
Dash and center and knee bar brace removed
Lots of room now!
Whew! Heater box assembly out and on the work bench.
The flaps were devoid of any foam!
Ready to be assembled.
This is 3 to 4 wrench job. I actually used a few more wrenches than that....😉 I�m not going into any great detail because there are some excellent posts about this subject complete with photos and diagrams. Thank you to those that have gone before me.
Special thanks to Meir on 986forum.com! I think that this project could be done in three to four days possibly a long weekend if you�re willing to put in eight hour days.
Today I installed a new serpentine belt....I had to go one size bigger, since the new one would not fit.....I wonder if the pulley in the new water pump is slightly bigger than the original...also fixed my no low fan condition on the drivers side...the fix: el cheapo resistor from Amazon:
The 2112 would not fit....the 2120 worked
El cheapo 0.5 Ohm 100 watt resistor...next to the original resistor
Now I have low fan on the drivers side...I extended the wires
I spent an hour or so at Porsche San Diego, getting a couple of new key transmitters and having them programmed. Beautiful facility, lots of shiny new cars to drool upon. 911 speedster on the showroom floor, with a $200K addendum (no thanks, I'll stick with my 996 for now)
Still chasing a loud plastic squeak.
I have hearing loss and I can still hear it.
I can’t stand to drive without my radio on because of it. (OCD)
I really like the sound of my Fabspeed exhaust and can’t really enjoy it.
I’ve been removing interior panels and leaving them off until I find the squeak.
Leaving the panels off during my daily commutes bothers me too.
This squeak just came out of nowhere.
I don’t have a console now, but I do have AC controls hanging in mid air.
I love driving with the top down, and try to use it that way whenever possible. But, I also really like it with the hard top on - completely different experience for sure. Driving with the soft top up is probably my least favorite mode - I�ve tried to eliminate all the squeaking in the soft top but it does still occasionally rattle over a bump or rough road.
We are supposed to have some nice weather this week, then cold Saturday so looks like the hard top goes on then. Will Gummi Pflege the heck out of it to try to eliminate the squeaks...
Daryll
Like MBren, my wife and I did the tour laps at Daytona International Speedway on Sunday. It was a blast...and nothing happened to my 21 year old car! Ha!
It was an amazing experience. I was out there all day saturday and most of sunday just watching and taking it all in. Driving on that track just cannot be explained in words.
....and bumped into this...I thought it would be fun to do...and I am pleasantly surprised with the end result...all for $16.00...I saved the originals....I do not expect these things to last very long...in the meantime, they are just cool...
Found these in Amazon
A little modification to the wiring...and they pop right in
Passenger side
Driver side
Close up
I also just put them in. Only issue was making the connection between these and the factory plug.
Being LED, I actually expect them to last for quite some time, which would be good because I like them too.
Do you have a link?
I can only find ones that say they don't fit 911. (or 996)
Never mind, I found them:
https://www.amazon.com/LED-Courtesy-Projector-Welcome-Panamera/dp/B07MCQS873/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=porsche+996+shadow+light&pd_rd_i=B07MCQS873&pd_rd_r=15357888-7e1a-49b9-8266-fa0756da36bb&pd_rd_w=xdoUh&pd_rd_wg=n0cUN&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=B5XGQ5PSCG6F8ET3RZHE&qid=1572456900
https://www.amazon.com/LED-Courtesy-Projector-Welcome-Panamera/dp/B07MCQS873/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=porsche+996+shadow+light&pd_rd_i=B07MCQS873&pd_rd_r=15357888-7e1a-49b9-8266-fa0756da36bb&pd_rd_w=xdoUh&pd_rd_wg=n0cUN&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=B5XGQ5PSCG6F8ET3RZHE&qid=1572456900
They physically fit. The issue is the connector. This is the one I purchased (now sold out but many other are available):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-NEW-LED-Car-Lamp-Logo-Door-Welcome-Light-Projector-PANAMERA-CAYMAN-997-911/293218431739
The lights come with small pins designed for the 997. The 996 uses larger spade plugs.
If you are good with a soldering iron and shrink tubing, you can make it work. It looks like TexSquirrel just added large spade connectors to the other end, cutting off the small connectors.
I went a little further and used the original connector, soldered them to the inside of the new lights with an additional auto connector in-between.
Yes...that's it...I just broke/crushed the "plastic" black plug (where the pins are) .... separated the 2 wires....and crimped blade terminals on them....wrap with tape...and done
Took mine in to the Indy for a Oil change (My current home I just don't have any space.. )
Second oil change since purchase. 5100 miles.
Had them add a magnetic drain plug while we were there..
Oil was clean, nothing in the sump...
Filter Clean.
The way they put it was all we could see was oil!
I had them dump a sample of the oil for send off. Well see how it goes.
2003 Cab, C4 115000 miles..
I started swapping in some hardback sport seats from a 997(That I got from a fellow Rennlister). There are a couple caveats - one being that they don't really match my interior
The upside is that they're not so different that I can't live with them for a little while (Until I can refinish them in Savanna Beige). They're Natural Brown Leather which is really nice - obviously not perfect, but once again, livable for the time being. The second being that Porsche changed the plugs for the seat and seat-belt connections
- The upside of this is that there are only 4 connections to make, and others have done this (there are photo's/write-ups both on Rennlist and 6speed Online) - It would just be really sweet if they were "plug n play"...A photo for posterity...
Agreed...I did see that review, and will check in a few weeks....however, I rarely keep the door open for more than 10-15 seconds.....I can see the melting happening if you leave the door open for 10-15 minutes at a time (admiring the emblem?)....lol
The bolstering is deeper so you stay in the seat better - especially during aggressive driving (which to me is "more comfortable"). This being said, they seem to be a bit firmer than the stock seats as well - I'm not sure how this will affect comfort over long drives since they don't seem as "cushy" as the stock seats (which I never had a problem with on long drives) but I think they'll be fine - will update my experience in the future. I think overall, they'll be a nice "upgrade" over the stock seats - especially in the aesthetic department (the blue painted hard backs are just awesome, and the Porsche Crest on the headrest is pretty cool too
). I think once I dye them the proper color and paint my center console to match the seat-backs and the outside color they'll be fully integrated.
I commute daily in my 996, and have to put up with SoCal traffic. After arriving home with a cramp in my left leg, one too many times, I decided to investigate why my clutch pedal was so dang stiff. I read all the posts about REMOVING the helper spring and figured mine might be the culprit. After a moderate amount of cursing, I extracted the old one and as suspected, it was broken. A little more time spent cussing, and the new one's installed. Quite a difference, my clutch pedal now feels like a Honda's!
Whole project, including a detour to lube my gas pedal, was under 45 minutes.
Started work on installing my IMS Solution. Removing the A/C Compressor to get to the tensioner was brutal, because I dropped the socket and it fell down between the injectors. That forced me to remove the bumper and heat shield to get to it!! In all the A/C compressor took me 5 hours to do.
Trans out and there is the original IMS.
Getting this thing out is way harder than it should be.
Started cleaning up the back of the engine.
That is a cool project and it looks good so far. The writeups regarding adapting the connectors have often been somewhat unsatisfying, mixed results and so on. Let us know what you find. This deserves better than mention in the "what did you do to your 996 today" column. A short thread would be great. GL with it, cheers.
Use a crows foot with u-joint and extension (where the air temp sensor sits) for the 3rd bolt. It's pretty easy once you understand the angle down there. A mechanics mirror and mini flashlight will show you the way.
The problem with my year is that it isn't a standard bolt. For some reason all the bolts are reverse Torx and require E-Torx Socket which I am not sure a crowfoot exists for. I did it by using a medium length wobble extension. I put the extension and socket through the runners in the intake where the temperature sensor was. I then went under the car and was able to reach up and put the socket on the bolt from the back side. I then went back up top and attached the ratchet and started working on removing the bolt.
Long time reader, first time poster in this forum...
Spent this past weekend at VIR, and needed to do a quick brake pad (front) swap. Thankfully I carry extras, so it was <30 min change in the paddock area Sunday morning. These Akenbono pads lasted 4 track days, plus about 1500 highway miles. I think I will switch to Pagid pads next season.
Judging by this image, I was batting .750 or so if we were talking about baseball. Yikes.
Just received and installed this Covercraft Weathershield HP "Interior" Cover on my 2000 C4 Cab. You can find them for sale
here
.
ZEFESpql.jpg
I always drive (and garage) the car w/the top down and rather than repeatedly raising and lowering the top (and risk mechanical failure) when I stop for lunch or whatever while out driving, I decided to buy one of these covers instead. It attaches w/2 velcro straps around the wipers, 2 elastic cords around the door pulls and 3 web strap stops placed under the engine lid.
Like a motorcycle cover, it provides protection from the elements and, even though it doesn't provide any actual "security" against tampering w/the vehicle, a cover surprisingly discourages people from doing just that. Never had anyone mess w/any of my motorcycles w/a cover on it and I'm hoping that this cover will be sufficient to do the same for my C4 Cab when I leave it for a short time while eating, shopping or whatever.
We'll see . . .
Got my first "Oil Failure Indicator" alert on the dash followed by a 0 reading of oil pressure which is a little concerning at first. But then it went back to normal. So, after a quick search it looks to be just a bad pressure sensor or maybe just needs a quick clean. Any recommendations on the best place to buy that part?
Thanks!
I live in Helsinki, Finland. Usually we don't get snow this early but todays snowfall surprised even meteorologists. However nights start to get below zero at this poimt, so summer tires aren't an option in the mornings anyway.
Passenger side door had a crazy rattle. Took the family out to eat tonight and my wife hinted that it was time to get it sorted out. After getting door panel off and peeling back the vapor barrier, it ended up being a screw that was just about all the way backed out. Tightened up and put everything back in place, and that took care of it!!
I had "the rattle" in my drivers side door - same deal (loose screw) - I'm not sure if it was the same one, but it drove me crazy. I put a spot of blue locktite on it before I tightened it up
I have a new rattle in my passenger door as well.
I replaced my windows regulator last year.
I guess I should have used Loctite as well.
I'll be taking a look inside soon to find, and eliminate, the rattle.
We specialize in rebuilding these regulators with custom metal parts and we're usually less expensive than purchasing a new part. If you have another regulator issue in the future, give us a call!
Bookmarked in my favorites....years ago I paid an exorbitant amount for a new rear regulator (convertible)....I even kept the old one in the shed...just in case it breaks again, to have send out for repair....
Well let's see. Nothing isn't entirely true. I did see a number of very small flecks of metal. I presumed this to be normal. The pieces pictured were the biggest ones there:
Is that magnetic?
How did you cut the inner filter apart?
If you're using a Napa Gold, those are really tough to get apart!
It could be pieces of the filter screen.
I usually just eyeball it, and figure I'd only cut it apart if I saw something.
First time since LN Solution so I figured I'd open it up. Yes, it was a pain, even after getting it out of the can (I drew blood). They glue the top and bottom of the pleats to the top / bottom metal pans.
I didn't check for magnetic or not. They looked kind of dull though.
I've heard pieces that small are normal, so I wasn't too concerned.
One of my key fobs was very weak so I did the A-pillar removal on driver side to trim the alarm system white antenna wire to 130mm (as per the old threads and TSB), and more cleanly ran my radar detector wire under there. Works quite well now. Went from 1’ range to 20’ range with the problem fob. And it really did only take 30 minutes!
Oh, and ran it to 4.33 0-60 and 12.7 1/4. Kind of surprised. 210 lb driver and 35 lb bag of dog food. Normal idle launch, a/c and PSM off, stock Carrera II 18s/AS3+, 40degF and 93 octane. Don’t know the whp and torque for this 3.8 build, but I really enjoy the pep. Mostly keeps me from lusting after a 997.2S. Mostly.
Waylens camera.
Protech is my local shop! Frank and Bill are awesome guys and that shop is ultra efficient. They've done all the work on mine beginning with the PO(single owner)
Thorough interior cleaning (vacuum, windows, leather cleaning) then...
Took the instrument panel off the dash and apart to replace a broken clock shaft that's been annoying me since I got the car.
Before
With the new shaft in the instrument cluster (before putting it back on).
The project wasn't too bad but, when reattaching the instrument panel, I managed to get the screw stuck on the left side behind the microphone. All I had left was two screws to have the project complete but had to disconnect everything again and take it off to get that screw out. Added a good 25 minutes to the project (total of a little over an 1.5 hours). Something little like that is the WORST when doing a little project like this.
Had a new top installed two weeks ago. It was so tight the roof wasn't latching on close.
Been letting it stretch out (hopefully) in the sun, and going to try to operate it today.
Wish me luck...
EDIT: Well, still not latching properly. Time to dive into the boards and look for answers.
Did the winter oil change and upgraded the shift boot.
Left side is after I pulled the original boot off but realized I didn't take a before pic, didn't want to push it all the way back down. I was never a fan of the base shift ****.
I replaced the passenger side window regulator. Started late yesterday and finished today. All went well. One weird thing was, while popping the door card clips across the bottom, a small part fell out on the floor. Any guesses as to what this gizmo is?
So apparently there is a $9 latch cover that, if broken or missing, will not allow the back windows to close after the top is up.
How weird is that - and perhaps a dumb question, but how does a super thin plastic piece over the metal latch hook let the microswitch engage?
Ordering said latch cover, hoping it will remedy my inability to raise the rear windows.
EDIT: I am a moron and just realized the answer to my question. The plastic latch cover has a tip that pushes the microswitch in.
Yeah, I've heard the same. Even replaced mine. I didn't have issues with my rear windows, but did have issues with the front latch cycling over and over. Latch cover improved the situation, but hasn't 100% cured it. Before you replace, try taking a tiny bald screwdriver or other thin item and reaching up past the latch and manually operating the microswitch. See if that allows your windows to work. I actually keep on in my console for the once in a while the latch doesn't finish it's cycle.
I will definitely try that - the top is still so tight that I'll need an extra pair of hands to help get it in the correct position while I stick my coffee stirrer into the microswitch!
Yesterday I replaced the ignition switch, which left me stranded after my son's flag football game (boo!). The good news is, with the right tools (including the tiniest flat head I could fine), this isn't a difficult job, just fiddly. I look forward to doing it again in a couple days when I replace the Autozone Duralast ignition switch with one closer to OEM because I don't trust the Duralast one (it didn't work on initial install).
I'm sure soon the forum will tell you that you're wrong and the IMSB is just lying in wait to explode and ruin your life...
Or, it could just work like mine and most all others do. I'm at 93,5xx on my original IMS/RMS/allMS/etcMS.
I didn't know if it was appropriate to start a new thread for this, so here's an awesome video of a 996 rally modded (owner updated the headlights, unfortunately.)
What a sound!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=76&v=fDewp1-pdR8&feature=emb_logo
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Drove it to work with the sunroof open, loved every second of it, especially ghosting the Toyota Camry "S" trying to race me off the line from a red light... Sigh. Some people never learn.
You need a plastic trim tool to scrape the larger chunks of foam adhesive but it's mostly the Goof Off. I plan to ceramic coat the wheels to see how well it works for brake dust.
Unclean rear
Cleaned front
Closeup rear
Closeup front
I bought it! 99 C2, 59k miles. First Porsche; picked it up from a family member who hadn't been driving it too much in the past year (back issues). Had its major service in late 2018, oil change about 3 months (and very few miles) ago. Replaced the flat-spotted tires and am having a blast with it so far.
The hvac fan in my 2004 C4S has been whining for quite a while. I looked at the 101 projects book, easy Wayne says:-). Of course that was on a no glovebox 99 car. I finally figured out how to remove the glove box and eventually got it back together.
P
Replaced my exhaust tips. FVD’s were on sale. Many methods for doing this task: remove exhaust system, bumper, etc, but I thought I’d try with just removing bumper cover. After finding the screws inside wheel well, I changed plan. Up on lift bars and rear wheels removed makes for much better access and only took extra 15 minutes.
You need T30, T25, Phillips head, 16mm ratchet end wrench and 16mm deep socket tools. Total time, with my 11 year old assistant, was 90 minutes. 30 minutes of that was actually aligning the clamps and tips. 10 minutes spent fixing a error of omission. Driver side was toughest for me. I have stock pipe sizes and routings.
Happy Thanksgiving!
From this...
...to this
Lift car. Level is best with all corners off the ground. At least both rear corners off the ground.
Remove rear wheels.
Remove rear bumper cover. Use two people to lift off cover, otherwise you could scratch a quarter panel.
Remove the outside heat shields. You can leave them partially attached (the innermost screw is a pain to reach) so you can still work around them.
Hit the old tip clamps with some PB Blaster.
Measure bottoms of tips to the ground. This will give you a baseline height to adjust to.
Remove clamps and old tips. If the clamps are resisting, fit some brake pad spreaders between the insides of the collars after you remove the bolts to get some leverage.
The oem clamps are pretty stout. So I recommend new ones. My old ones were smaller and had less mass. I used a little copper grease on insides of the clamps.
With the new clamp resting on neck of tip, Place the new clamp from bottom and have helper hold the tip in place with you fiddle with the fitment, alignment and getting the clamp started.
Tighten to leave just enough play to swivel the tip around for adjustment. Have helper keep the tip in place and can measure while you’re under car. Check horizontal level, if needed. Be cautious looking around the circumference of clamp, top and bottom, checking for gaps and clamp misalignment.
Test fit the bumper cover. Put on the top 4 and bottom middle 4 screws to check gap on cover’s exhaust cutouts.
Once you are totally satisfied with your adjustment, tighten to 30Nm/22lb-ft. I was able to get torque wrench on passenger side. I estimated the driver side from that. I could not get a wrench behind driver side bolt.
Remove bumper cover again to install heat shields. Do not forget to attach the screws, one per side, holding the outside shield to the rear shield of back bumper (son of a...!).
Replace bumper cover with helper. Remember the screws up inside the wheel wells at the pointy tip of cover.
Put the wheels back on and bring down the car.
High five!
First snowfall of the season and it's always a blast to see the looks I get as I cruise along in my 996. And of course when I get the chance, turn off the traction control and have some fun.
Getting trade in values on it for something more practical. Wonder how much I should deduct for the dented trim piece left of trapazodial quad pipes? I'm sure it's $$$.
Well it was actually two days ago... Put winter wheels & tires on...
ready for winter! I won�t drive it much but at least I can if I want to. The Pirelli Sottozero II�s are quite a bit softer/smoother than the Michelin PSS... drives very nicely.
I removed the remote entry antenna wire from the wiring bundle behind the driver side A pillar trim. I taped it to the outside of the foam wrapped bundle, as the Renntech DIY instructed. I did not trim the wire to 100 mm as the Porsche TSB apparently indicated was the ideal antenna wave length for USA cars.
As described, the remote entry range of the key fob was greatly increased. From outside the garage, with all the doors closed the range was easily 30’. I expect more range out in the open.
A really quick and easy project. Instant gratification is always good.
For those of you that have upgraded to the GT3 throttle body - do you like it? Was it worth it? What do you notice the most?
I'm having my 3.4L built out into a 3.8L, and I'm wondering if this is a mod worth doing. Thanks!
-Matt
- Fresh Motul 5w40
- LN Spin on filter adapter w/NAPA Gold filter and LN drain plug
- Tire pressure set to 50psi for storage
- Plugged in on the CTEK MUS 4.3 for the winter
I picked up a set of 17 wheels off Craigslist.
Owner of nice Guards Red 996.1 cab replaced them with 19� off a 997.
They had some old Cooper Zeon tires with lots of tread
and ancient date codes.
They were cheap ($200) so I don�t mind replacing the tires with some cheap all-seasons.
All 4 have some minor scratches.
I don�t want to spend the money to have them powdercoated.
Can anyone suggest a DIY paint to use that will look nice?
I prefer silver wheels, but might consider a different color.
I�ve had black wheels before and I�m not sure I want black.
While I was washing them a neighbor came over and said a friend of his had some he wanted to get rid of.
I told him I�d buy them for $200 too if they�re in good shape.
If nothing else I can pass them on to someone else.
...or buy some racing tires...
I am still working on this myself. I have two cans of self etching primer, two cans of color and one can of clear. I've done this in the past on other wheels and have been happy with the results.
It's a ritual I perform every winter, but I also pay special attention to the barrels during the year when washing the car. This way I try to stay ahead of it a little bit. But even then they still end up being black and covered in tar etc when I take them off. What I do is to clean it several times with wheel cleaner, once I have removed all the dirt I can I soak them in WD40 as this dissolves/softens tar and all kinds of sticky grime that is still sticking to the wheel. After soaking int WD40 for about 10 minutes I rub the barrels with my hands protected by nitrile gloves and finesse every stain until it is gone. It takes between 30-60 minutes per wheel, but it is very satisfying to do with excelletn results and it's good for mindfulness to boot
My detailer got my Carrera IIs that clean, then he ceramic coated them inside and out.
Now I can reach through the spokes and easily clean the barrels with a sponge.
The 17” Carreras I just bought were really dark like the barrels had never been cleaned.
I got as much as I could off using Griot heavy duty wheel cleaner and my pressure washer.
They still look badly stained in places.
I figure that can wait until I get ready to paint them...or I might just paint the whole thing black.
For me, did a DE this weekend with LSRPCA, what a great time. I've done DE events with other 'promoters', and this was far and away what ALL DE events should be, IMO. Just letting people get out there and drive and have FUN (which is what we pay for!!) while giving inputs on how to do better lap times as we go along. Next time I should end up in Blue Solo so that will be a little less stressful, as you (well, me, anyway) are always more relaxed in your own car focusing on that instead of what you're going to screw up for your instructor lol. Classes were short and sweet, giving us time to rest between session. Not going to name names for other Texas 'groups', but going immediately from class to track to class to track to lunch to class to track to class to track over the course of a 10 hr day is tiring for anyone, when you literally have 3-5 mins of downtime between it all. But, depends on what you want to do, and I think for sure you learn better driving and feeling refreshed than hashing over PowerPoint slides for an hour at a time when you're falling asleep... just my take, anyway.
Further, this now being my second time in the C4S out there, wow, what a difference. Since mine is my DD and a Tip, I just put it in manual and have since learned where the gears need to be in relation to the turns, so lap times improved significantly. I know it's not PDK, and sometimes under hard and heavy braking it wants to kick up to 3rd even though I'm downshifting into 2nd under braking, but usually within a second or two I flick it back down and were hunched down, powering thru some corners, leaving folks behind. I know the whole sentiment of "A Miata can and will be on certain tracks faster than your Viper", but I was really impressed with my 320hp (stock from 16 yrs ago, who knows what I'm running now), and how we left 981, 718 Caymans and Boxsters, new-gen 5.0 Mustangs, others wanting more. And that was with comparable drivers that I know in my same group, so not like Blue vs. Green drivers here. I will say, 991 S cars, whether it's a C2S or C4S, are FAST. I knew they were quick, but the way they dispatched 996 Turbos and 997 CS', was pretty fantastic to see. I was going to be confident having "just" a 991 C2, but not so sure anymore lol.
Also was my first time on my Michel PS2s, and omg, what a blast. Expensive, yes. Worth every penny on track AND street?? Yep. I was/am considering getting a separate set of something just for the track, but since I only plan on 3-4 DE events a year, I'd rather save my money and buy a new set of these as I go along, as track focused or track only tyres are just as, if not more expensive than these, and get worn out, so anyway. Plan to only keep this car another year or so as-is, so doesn't really make much sense that I can tell. Was running about 30 psi front and 36 rear and seemed fine. Probably could have come down a little in the front to maybe 28 and like 33/34 in rear but my instructor didn't feel like we needed to. I'm running them at 33/38 on the street and love the compliance so far.
Anyway, GO TRACK YOUR CAR! Lol. it can handle it! I saw so many Cabs out there too, I had 2 or 3 996 Turbo Cabs in my group, all were quick and of course sounded fantastic. I will say too, people love seeing a nice example 996. Mine isn't perfect, but it does look good, especially with the Sport Techno wheels (which I was surprised people knew about), and compared to the ocean of grey and black 997s and 991s, we tend to stick out a little, which isn't a bad thing!
Can't wait for the next one.
Tire pressure question - on my base 03 C2 I run 18" Michelin Pilots at 36/40. Ride is a bit harsh on bumps, and I know that lowering the tire pressure a bit will make life a little smoother. What I'm concerned with is why do the Porsche engineers say 36/41, when about everyone who DE/tracks their car keeps them way lower?
ELI5 please!
I found a link here years ago that Porsche recommends those MAX PSI pressures for 4 passengers, luggage, and 150+mph runs. Or close to that, anyway. It's a safety spec they have to put out, I will try and find it here, I think I have the link saved... I have read that stock PSI for my C4S (different than your C2) is 36/44 F/R. Before I got my PS2s I was running 33/38 and wow, what a difference! I've found a 5-6 PSI difference in F to R specs is my optimal sweet spot with no noticeable affect on tyre wear, etc.
But what you're saying, is what most of us have found out, in that just driving around town or even at decent highway speeds (say up to or under 100mph) with a solo passenger, no luggage, etc., reducing PSI makes the ride sooo much better. So, it's just what you can live with without damaging your tires. I have a client who used to run Cup 997s semi-professionally and said he tracks his 997 at 28 PSI all around on Michelin Cup 2s, IIRC.
However, when doing DE or AX, you want the max amount of rubber contacting the pavement or asphalt, so reducing your PSI will make that happen as you increase speeds, go thru corners, etc. since the car squats down the more air that flows over it at speed. If you have max PSI on your car going around on track, they expand as they heat up, so an already fully-filled tire is just going to get bigger and therefore decrease your contact patch and you'll slip and skid. That's also why you check your tyres after each run and let air out (if needed) when they're hot.
This is how I understand it anyway lol... Some may be off, but I just know more contact your tyres have with the street/pavement, the better usually. You CAN lower them too much, and get sidewall damage, so just go a little at a time. These parameters I've found and been using now for a while work just fine for me.
EDIT: Here's the link I always refer back to-
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-pressure.html
MSR Houston, it's down in Angleton. Worth a drive for the weekend, IMO. I mean driving at COTA is fun at all, but it's expensive AF, wears out your tyres, brakes and car in general so quickly, and this is a fun, windy track that stays interesting even when you drive it a bunch. I only drive the CCW (counter-clockwise events) though. Clockwise is kinda meh. I do plan to hit up COTA though in February once the resurface is done.
We're having another LSRPCA event there in January 17/18 2020 I think. Sign up is this weekend, via clubregistration.net I believe. PM me if you need more info or think about wanting to go. Can give ideas for lodging, etc. EVERYone is nice, cool and laid back, no pressure, no dick-measuring contests, that sorta thing. People bring all sorts of cars too, not just our marque which makes it fun as to how you stack up against other manufacturers.
Hm, that's my b-day weekend. What's that little track for that's there? Can't tell from google pics. Oh, and I am a Longhorn Region member. How much is it?
Dropped it off at the detailer for a pricey but needed paint correction. He's got the car for a full week. Really excited to see the final result!
Before. Lots of swirlies and you can see a scratch by the headlight wet-sanded out.
After wet sand of scratch and first cut of compound.
Put the hardtop and snow tires on her today. Haven't driven her in a month due to poor weather and cold. After 20 inches of snow we have a warm spell and rain. Nice today so took advantage and got her prepped for winter. Missed driving her!! Really enjoying the Macan S though!
The smaller track is the karting track. Have not tried it yet.
It's $350 for the weekend with PCA membership, two days, 8 20-minute sessions. Well worth it.
Dropped the engine out of Speedy.
It was only a matter of time before it would end its first life. I won't clutter this thread with my progress. There are other places for that.
Don't let the photos deceive you, it's really dirtier than it looks. Who knows what horrors await, inside...
Took my c4s for a drive in the rain. Winter tires going on next week and yesterday was last day warm enough to trust my nearly finished sumo summer tires.
Love the sound of all of that! Sorry did not pick up on the track, might have missed it, which track? I have only driver MSR Ft Worth and loved it. Did you do any alignment changes? If not I would recommend a mild track alignment as you start to pick up the pace.
Definitely.
I got a lot of the external stuff off on Saturday. Spent most of yesterday collecting my birthday present and investigating the what it will take to install it.
https://www.menards.com/main/heating...4441204088.htm
The real story will be told when the heads come off. This was from Saturday. I took the P/S pump and plumbing off yesterday, and started on the exhaust.
Installed vinyl headlight protection today. Not big on appearance modifications. So yellow color may not last past winter. Or next week for that matter.
Really nice Ricky! I love these cars in unique colours.
I did my annual bumper off rad cleaning yesterday. It amazes me what a vacuum these things are.
thanks!
That is a very good project I did mine a year ago, something tells me I'll do it again as soon as I find the time, thanks for the compliment!
thank you! Yeah the color is amazing! And I couldn't believe how light they are compared to my stock turbo twists!
Since both of my kids(20 & 13) are now too large to safely ride in the back of my 996, I finally installed the rollbar that I�ve owned since April 2018.
WOW, was it a tough install
I�ve installed Autopower boot-in roll bars before and they�re MUCH easier except for getting past the drilling.
It�s well made.
I finally started on the process of doing a headlight restoration. At first I taped over the washer caps, but they were in the way, so I decided to remove them. Looks like it was a good thing, as one was about to let go. Here is apparently where they fail. There is a remarkable amount of spring tension on these, so I guess I'm not surprised they fail.
Hi!
First post on RL
Made the rear spoiler switch mod following the
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-relocate.html
guide on my 2002 996.2 cab. A bit scary cutting the wires but everything worked. A bit tricky since the guide is on a right hand side car and mine is a left hand side and some of the connections are different.
For the headlight refurb? I'm not done yet, but using what as been posted here many times, varying grades of sandpaper starting at 400, moving up to 2000, then polish. I did do one using a Maguire's kit and it looks pretty good, but there were spots where you could see the old clear, so I started again using the tried and true method of removing all the old clear coat first....a lot of sanding.
As far as popping the washers out, I used a little compressed air on the line feeding the washer and they pop up. Catch it, then ever so gently, pry up the tab connector and they pop right off. Remarkable spring tension trying to pull them back closed, so it's not super easy to hold them open. An extra set of hands would be very handy.
Installed my new Llyod Northridge Floor Mats for the winter. Wanted to go with the Porsche design ones, but they don't fit Cabs with the Bose subwoofer. Overall they fit pretty well with minor trimming at the back to fit around the seat rails. The anchors can be a bit challenging to snap together.
Thanks!
It was sold new in Germany then exported to Italy before it was imported to Sweden in 2012. Common in Europe that nice cars are sold to other countries. I got it in August 2019 and it makes me smile every day allthough it is garaged for the winter. 109500 km (68000 mi), updated IMS and RMS, no piston slapping or oil consumption yet
Installed the Function First Shift-Right Solution to my factory short shifter. What an improvement!!! This shifts so much better now. The sloppiness of the shifter is eliminated. Great mod, should be this way from the factory!
Swapped summer tires for Blizzak WS-90s. Side note - My 72yr old mom drove a �12 911 year round in MN for 3yrs. My hero.
Replaced headlight bulb on my 99. Very slick Porsche headlight housing design - whole unit just slides out like a lego. Love these cars.
Diagnosed a loose left front CV joint, removed all belly pans and cleaned under them (there was fur) and installed the Function First transmission inserts. Next up is the F1st motor mounts.
love the Quick Jack; just feels great to work under the car at that height and very easy to use.
Will post a separate question about the CV joint.
I added some fluorescent lights to my garage.
They will help detailing and DIY work.
I added the two middle ones. The ones nearest the door get covered when the door is open. Now I�ll have adequate lighting when the door is up, and overwhelming when it is closed.
Pretty simple installation with two comments. First, getting all of the wires tucked back in behind the radio was the hardest part. Took several tries. I also found some of the wires to be very thin for the cost of the kit and an automotive application.
I knocked out an unused switch (the lowest one under PSM was open) next to the radio and installed the Bluetooth controller in its place. Used gorilla glue and a vice to mount and it looks good. Avoids having a cable exposed on the dash.
The sound from the unit is ok, not great but as expected. I just want to stream Sirius and podcasts from my phone so it�s fine.
Happy New Year 996rs and all the best for 2020.
Drove it to it's second vineyard in 2 weeks for family and friend time. Started off the new year right with some 3 pedal action in the mountains and relaxation.
Nice. More light is always good. When I built my garage a couple of years ago, I converted a bunch of fluorescent fixtures over to LED. Huge difference. Looks like I'm not the only one...
Indirectly related to what I am doing on my 996, I installed a furnace in my shop over the Christmas break. After a little tweaking, I got it firing on all five cylinders.
It's nice to step in to a warm shop and go to work on stuff like this:
Did a bit of cleanup on the engine so I can get serious about disassembly. Figure the heads will go the Hamheads and the case halves to LN. Big plans, not enough time in the day to be where I want to be...
Need to get the exhaust system off now.
Went to my local dealer and ordered a new key blank/remote (my 2000 C4 Cab only came w/1 key) and a new passenger visor (broken) today. Also ordered a new driver's side window regulator from Amazon.
About $800 in total before coding the remote ($189) and installing the visor (unknown amt the the dealer; just more convenient) and about $500 for my indie to install the regulator. Oh yeah, I'll also have to pay the dealer to diagnose the problem(s) w/my CLS (central locking system) which will cost about another $200 (to be credited to the cost of repair(s) whatever they may be. LOL!
I had a USB port in the dash and inside the console. I found that four USB ports was overkill so I switched the dash one back to a cigarette lighter style.
Today was the first day in a long time where I had both free time and good weather so went for a drive up the coast and had brunch.
From Amazon:
Amazon
Amazon
Yes, it's the Continental with the optional Porsche sticker that Bergvill sells. I had been considering putting the Becker back in because I thought it sounded better. I had the S.O. with me today and she likes to sing along with the volume up. After a couple of hours with it turned up to 11, I'm revising my opinion of the Continental. BTW, I hate when you're singing along to a song and the artist gets the lyrics wrong...
They have lots of parts that are OEM or OEM level. My 2 go to spots are Warehouse33 and RockAuto. There are many others, but these are the 2 I have had the most success with.
What do you need?
How about Rein engine mounts and thermostat, Pierburg waterpump, Mahle oil and fuel filters, Hastings air filter, Contitech drive belt kit, Delphi coils, Bosch spark plugs and a Remy re-man alternator?
BOOM!
Now go look at their website for all your 996 needs, the Google parts and compare prices...Some things can be bought on Amazon for less when you factor in shipping costs for me.
Yes - Amazon has good deals too. It's true! And if you are a Prime member, you get free shipping on most everything you order. I usually compare prices at many places (Auto Atlanta, Pelican, Paragon, Rock Auto, Amazon, etc.). For basics, Amazon and Rock Auto usually win. Special parts - that I need to look-up in the PET usually need to come from Auto Atlanta, Pelican or other specialty parts suppliers - but not always. Amazon has surprised me several times.
If there's a lesson here: Get the PET (at the Porsche website) and find the part number you need and then do a google search on that number. Lots of options out there.
This was Saturday actually, but close enough. We had a local PCA outing to K&M Collision in Hickory, NC, one of the few Porsche certified collision repair facilities in the state. About 85 miles away and well worth the trip. The place is cleaner than my living room and workmanship is absolutely impeccable.
Anyway, weather was bad for the trip but I had the irresistible urge to drive my car. On the way, I discovered my odo was about to display all sixes. Hope that’s not a bad sign. Anyway, I quickly whipped out my phone and Captured the moment..
Also, I was thrilled when
@carlvs
took some cool pics of my car in the fog. This one’s my favorite. Thanks buddy!
Ofcourse, a few cool cars in the shop I can only dream about owning.
GT3 RS with mostly underbody damage
GT4 with only a few thousand miles on it with structural damage around the door frame. Purchased at a salvage auction.
RockAuto was the cheapest for Bosch factory O2 sensors. (I replaced all 4 when I installed my Fabspeed x-pipe)
Also they were the cheapest for Bosch MAF Sensor.
I also got my engine mounts from RockAuto.
If you need new Bosch fuel injectors go to Warehouse33.
I buy lots from RockAuto, but mostly for client cars.
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Replaced bad pressure sending unit. Between reading here and on renntech that was a super easy job. Used a crows foot wrench with a universal and a long extension. Fortunately, I have small forearms, so it was super easy to unplug the wires from the top.
Replaced the gear oil in the 6MT. I'm thinking it might have never been changed...
Spent an hour today with my local indie guru. Test drive by him (me in shotgun), then on the analyzer, inspection of last week's oil filter, etc. Very pleased with his assessment of engine audio, oil pressure, clutch action, suspension/steering tightness, oil filter, cam deviation and general state of my almost 22yo steed. Took it out on the highway after that and took RPMs in the 4k-5k range for the first time in a while. Fun. Had an idea for Torque Pro on my previous Android phone, mounted horizontally in the cubby area, showing a number of metrics not on the dash. Nothing permanent, but fun data from the OBD2 stream while taking laps on my favorite cloverleaf, breaking the rear end loose a tad now and then. Fun day.
Thanks ! Really happy with how they came out. Color is Prismatic Powders Bronze Chrome with Casper Clear over. Below is a pic prior to the matte clear and below that is how they looked prior to the powder coat / repair.
Wheels look Great zbomb!
Fig996, nice job with the wiring. Just curious, why did you need to re-wire it?
I bought my 996 this past summer before I knew anything about reading the DME etc. I bought a Durametric this week and read my car last night. I was nervous not knowing whether it was a car that was beat or not as to what i would discover... To my relief it showed only 812 range 1's and 0 range 2's! Looks like mine was basically driven by grandma so all the ragging has been saved for me! I can also tell from the timing that the time when the range 1's did happen was when it was at the dealership where I got the car... Shocking!
Mine is put up for the winter so I am working on several other things as well. One being a speedtech exhaust which I hope to have finished this weekend. Now all that is left is to wait for spring....
Happy Wrenching!
ya know I liked it a lot too. The coater had a snafu with on hand materials that delayed the matte clear application and I asked him to send me a photo, the one you see of the first coat.
came very close to telling him to leave them as I liked the gloss way more than I thought I would.
In the end I am happy with how they came out but thought I would post the gloss for other folks who may be looking into powder coat options.
I replaced my water pump, and used the LN low temp stat. I can see a difference with a slower water temp rise, and final temps slightly right to my �8� on 180, then before which was directly over �0� Flushed coolant and vac�d in a 50/50 mix.
Learned everything from this forum, so thank you all.
FYI - maybe this is only for 996.1, I removed my back bumper, but it didn�t provide any additional clearance in accessing the pump. It was a good exercise though, and was able to clean it up and reattach it better than before.
Well, also a few lifeline calls to a fellow Rennlister too!
Changed my oil.
Note to self - next time remove the oil pan guard. That tiny trickle from the drain plug ends up sending old oil onto the guard, and it leaks out slowly from the corner...
Digging into the engine while doing AOS replacement, found some unexpected issues.
Totally kaput clutch plate and DMF, with Mahle the guard dog.
The Sachs and LUK stuff must not have been replaced when the engine was redone 25,000 miles ago (91,000 on odo). Very worn out. DMF had a pronounced wobble. Absolutely no signs of such advanced wear from the driver seat.
M97 Bearing
During PPI, I checked engine build receipts and did not come across this M97 bearing being installed. I knew it was ceramic and this makes sense because the case was already split. So the LN M96 IMSB gets returned, along with the rental tools.
Found some oil on top of engine case and replaced filler tube o-ring. Found a small vacuum tube broken under left intake that was replaced long ago with non-standard tube that deteriorated over the years. All-in-all came out about same for cost: replacing clutch and flywheel parts instead of IMSB.
And I fervently hope I get more than 3,000 miles out of this AOS. Next time, if I need a new separator, I will be trying PT3’s AOS mod.
After removing the pan a few times I came up with a simple solution, cut the about 2" off the end of a 1 1/2 (1 1/4) poly insert fitting from Home Depot. Just press fit in now the oil cant' get onto the skid plate.
I've had on for years, almost always on the green setting. In a nutshell it accelerates the rate the throttle butterfly opens making the motor respond to throttle inputs quicker. Liken it to automatic handicap doors, no matter how fast you push the button the door takes 10 second to full open, with the SB you can cut that down to 5 seconds on green or 2.5 on red.
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A panel under the front. Hey, I don't know who did it! Probably my wife! That figures. It couldn't have been me! Maybe the mechanic didn't reattach it correctly. Nah, probably the Russians, they are invading you know, probably will start with stealth damage to 911s.
Ok, ok, more honestly: daily driver - nuf said.
^^^ Ouch... Repair? Or time for a new one? This fiber filled plastic stuff is a pain to repair - I've done it a few times, but it's difficult and usually winds up cracking/breaking again (doesn't last very long either). Fortunately that piece isn't prohibitively expensive
I just finished my first 4k mi. oil change on my FSI 3.8 Stage II motor (Driven GT1 15w-40)... Ready for the Snowflake Rally next week!
The only way to fix it IMHO is reinforce it with some galvanized sheet steel and pop rivets. But I am not yet ready to use such patched / degraded parts on this fine car. It (996 575 161 01) looks like $74.03 at Sunset which isn't too bad. Oh well.
^^^+1 I agree that part is cheap for Porscheland. Shop around the part number with some Google fu. Several vendors have the piece for $70ish, but some gouge on shipping.
Got a GT3-inspired alignment done this week, including finally lowering the back end a bit more to reduce the rake. Looks great, drives great. Riding on KW V3 coil overs and a bunch of Tarett stuff.
Any long-term or potential downsides to doing this? Looks like they indeed have this for Tip, and looks to be an interesting and relatively cheap mod and for track work, would really help getting out of corners a tad quicker and up into the power band.
Had another HPDE event at my local track, MSR Houston. First time driving 'at speed' on a track in the wet/rain in the morning, so that was something! PSM saved my butt a few times, although it wasn't too bad, just naturally couldn't get much heat into the tyres so wasn't a great two sessions.
By the afternoon it was lightning and absolutely pouring, so the track never opened back up, thankfully I left early and didn't sit around and wait it out!
Sunday was spectacular- sunny, not a cloud in the sky, really windy, about 60 degrees. As usual, the C4S performed beautifully on it's still-newish Michelin Pilot Sport 2s, giving me all the grip and stopping power I could ask for, even on a cool track and recovering from the deluge the day before. These cars were built for this kind of stuff and it really shows. My example is purely stock, not a single mod (down to original Sport Techno wheels), and keeps up with plenty of cars. It's interesting to see just how much rain/wet conditions are the true 'great equalizer'. People who on Sunday were passing me up no sweat in their 991 Turbo S or C2S, etc. I was all over them, especially in the slower corners, in the wet. It was pretty funny watching the one Camaro and two Mustangs in the corners on Saturday trying to put the power down, wasn't happening!
As usual, if you haven't done a DE event in your 996, you are MISSING OUT! They're cheap to enter, you get an instructor, learn so much about your car. Easily can run on street tyres and pump gas too. Just have your tech check through everything (most PCA groups will have a technical inspection list for you to have done) and go from there. Rent a helmet even if you don't want to buy one! Due to work limitations I won't be able to run again until probably May or June, so that'll suck but is what it is.
Excellent. I'm reading about it now on Pelican, and sounds like it would be a great fix for the 'lag' in throttle response. I personally think this is more of a letdown than even the Tip transmission, is getting 'on gas' quickly. For $300, why not give it a run... Thank you sir!
never heard of this device before your post. I do believe the throttle by wire response is a bit slow. I've just adapted to it. Now I'm reading all I can find on it. Thanks! I think....😁
I don't have one but I was considering it a few years ago. I found that all of the negative remarks came from people who never had one, and all of the positive remarks came from those who did. Gotta love the Interwebs.
Admittedly i have no firsthand knowledge of this product but i read a review that questioned whether you can get the same throttle response with a slightly heavier right foot and save the $. If it tricks the computer into thinking car is WOT when pedal is only for example depressed 50%, (a) pushing pedal past 50% does nothing and (b) in normal day to day driving your pedal might be more sensitive then desired. Might make sense for a track car.
Just my .02.
Pelican says the product has a 30-day return policy, so if it's not really your thing, you can just unplug it and get your $$ back. Their comment/description kind of says what you do, and it's mostly down to user preference as to whether you like it or not. For me, I'd prefer a little less 'mashing' to get the throttle going, but YMMV of course.
Ordered frunk struts from Pelican. Also ordered a Bluetooth speaker for my can since my super-duper Kenwood system (P.O. installed) apparently got shorted out from condensation dripping from my McD’s Diet Coke. The screen tilted out at the bottom, exposing the switches to said condensation.
BT is a stopgap/ghetto-engineering fix recommended by my dog sitter.
More to follow.
TC
Just had a new driver's side window regulator installed in my 2000 C4 Cab which fixed a problem that I was having w/the window not dropping/rising as it's supposed to do in order to avoid it hanging up in the roof channel. The installation triggered the airbag warning light to go on due to a low voltage error code but my mechanic was able to clear the code which has not returned.
For more info, see;
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post16368345
i had to replace driver's side window regulator after acquiring 03 c4s last March, now the passenger side is failing. These cars go from almost no use, then a new owner takes it and the the doors get used often after years of sitting. Bang...new window regulators needed. Thankfully they aren't stupid costly.
Yeah I understand, My explanation is probably not very clear. The throttle map, is not a step function, but a progressive relationship between pedal stroke and throttle angle. Ideally it would be linear. However, there is a delay when starting from zero stroke, so it is difficult to catch up. Therefore (to me) it feels non-linear (with a significant delay or lag). Stomping the throttle does not reduce the delay/lag, it just increases the jerk that you feel when the throttle comes on. The sprint booster has 2 settings that make it more linear and reduce/almost eliminate the lag.
As a reference, others have said that if you down/up shift carefully and keep the RPMs up, then there really is not a problem. I do agree with this. During sporty or track driving, this may not be as useful. However when accelerating and starting from the 0~3000 rpm range, I really feel a significant improvement when accelerating.
Very interested to hear if someone else has a more clear explanation.
Changed INS bearing just 3 years before and only 18k. Driving to Vegas in traffic and all of a sudden no oil pressure and shut down. So at that point I had to rebuild so I decided to go from 3.6 to 4.0L and got the IMS Solution which is oil feed. So kind of not by choice but yes by choice to do the 4.0L
My driver's side door window came that way w/the 2000 C4 Cab that I bought about 4 months ago. Still waiting for the passenger side to go too.
PS: I also replaced the passenger side sun visor, which was broken. A very easy remove/replace item; just 2 torx bit screws and a small plastic screw cover. Only problem is the $200+ that they charged me for the visor.
i had a hard wired rear mounted back up camera installed for $250, all-in. camera is mounted on top rim of rear license plate holder and is virtually invisible. upon putting the car in reverse the camera displays on my alpine center console touch screen. had the work done when touch screen and radar detectors were installed. great for backing out of parking spots.
Getting ready to sell my 04 C4S / Cab / Tip / 80K mile / IMS Solution'd car so I dropped it off at local specialist to have him give it a once over. Not a PPI but a assessment of obvious things that should be addressed.
He actually thought I was nuts when I asked him if it made sense for me to pay for a full PPI .. and have it in-hand when a prospect asked for it. I'd rather be upfront and honest about anything I sell.
Yes
I bought on Amazon and installed the VanTop H610 10" 2.5K Mirror Dash Cam for Cars with Full Touch Screen, Waterproof Backup Camera Rear View Mirror Camera, Enhanced Night Vision with Sony Starvis Sensor, Parking Assistance. Sold by: VanTop Direct $81.59
The Micro USB card is not included: I bought on Amazon the Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select Memory Card with Full-Size Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM). $19.49
The rear cam is wired. I n order to hide the cable (it comes with an 8' one), I needed an extension cord: YiePhiot Extension Cord Dash Cam Backup Camera Rear View Mirror Camera Recorder Cable (4-pin 6.5ft/2m) $5.99 (Amazon)
Installation is simple but time-consuming if you want to hide the wires as I did (~ 3 hours)
Took my 2000 C4 Cab into the dealer 2day to get a new key coded (total cost for key blank, remote head and coding $500). Other options just didn't weren't acceptable. So bit the bullet and paid full freight.
Also had them diagnose a CLS (central locking system) problem. It locks/unlocks but doesn't do what it's supposed to do. Problem identified as the driver's door latch (not being recognized by the CLS). Estimated cost of repair $906. Will be credited $210 for the cost of diagnosis paid today' $696 due later.
Was told the need to diagnose the roof as well. Claimed it's "noisy" and hydraulics may be low or going out. Don't think it's noisy but it is slow. Will do the diagnosis when I bring the car in for the door latch/CLS repair. Will not pay them to replace/repair the hydraulics; will get them rebuilt in FL and removed/reinstalled by my indie shop if need be.
There also a loose roll bar cover; one side is loose due to a small broken bracket. They want $750 for a new cover. NOT going to buy that; it's secure enough. Just wondered if they could fix it w/o replacement; they can't. May search for the part in a salvage yard or from a discount Porsche parts dealer but it really doesn't need 2b replaced 4 that price.
Update
:
Just discovered that there are wheel locks on my car. Was checking the torque of the bolts. Bought the car on 8/31/2019 and had no reason to check the torque b4. Sent a txt & email to the prior owner to see if he still has the key. Also called my indie who said that my Porsche dealer should have a master key set. Porsche confirmed it and said they could order me a new key when they figure out which one it is. Will get that done during the next visit too.
After lots of research, I had a roll bar installed in my C4S. It�s a tight fit but the guys at HBI Auto did an amazing job with the install. The bar is a RSS bar and had it custom painted.
I recently installed the same bar in my 996.
Wow it was a chore to install.
I don�t plan on ever removing it, that�s for sure.
I like the yellow, mine is boring black.
Wish I�d removed the rear seatbelt before installing the rollbar.
Replaced my gas cap, the broken lanyard had bugged me for years. When you order the replacement cap from Porsche the kit doesn't include the little plastic push pin needed to connect the lanyard to the car so I had to have the dealer send one to me. Now nicer than dealing with a loose cap.
Yeah, I called Mike at RSS and he said one tip is to use a ratchet strap on the two front legs to take off the preload. Also, to use a thin piece of cardboard btw the bar and headliner for protection.
For you guys that have done this, I�m curious as to your driving impressions post install? I�d assume it feels like a more rigid chassis overall and reduces body roll a bit? Big difference? Moderate difference? Looks the business that�s for sure.
I haven�t taken my car to the track since the install and expect to feel moderately less body flex. The RSS bar is a bolt in so it won�t have as much stiffening as a weld in option. On the street, I don�t feel any difference really but hard to tell as the coupes are already inherently pretty stiff.
If you want to ditch the wheel locks altogether I have some extra bolts you can have. I ordered a set off Ebay, and used them to replace my wheel locks (key also missing), and replace some bolts that were very rusty.
Spent 4 great days at the Rolex 24 PCA Infield Paddock. Weather was beautiful and the racing awesome. I am at 145,357 miles and the car still looks great and runs great.
Actually, last night, I finished install of a double din Sony (CVX1000 if I remember correctly).
I installed wiring for a reversing camera and will complete that install once received. My 63 year old body is pretty sore from all the contortionist moves required. My shins especially are sore from fishing the rear camera wiring. I learned a lot about how the interior of these cars are trimmed out.
Oh, yeah, also removed the cigarette lighter and replaced it with a double USB charger outlet. The car is no longer a completely unmodified, bone stock car.
Thanks the charlieaf92 for the video tutorial. The outer CV was clicking quite a bit in tight turns and even a little when driving straight. Some odd bolt sizes on a few parts, like two that were not a 17 and not a 19. We ended up using some English sixes to get it done. Felt great on the test drive.
Fun Sunday for my C2 coupe and I.
Drove my favorite tight, windy roads pre-dawn for an hour, albeit in light rain.
Got my manometer and oil cap set up for AOS check. Happy with readings (~5.5in).
Updated my Foxwell OBD2 reader and can now check cam variations (0* and -3*).
Used my new second floor jack for a twin lift of the back end to torque up oil drain plug with new torque wrench.
Bore scoping next on the list. Grateful for all the shared expertise by members of this forum.
There�s value in purchasing from the places that participate in the Porsche/BMW community. I�m happy to pay a few bucks more to Pelican for all the great info they put out. Can�t remember the last time I read a DIY on Amazon... (coming from a small business owner). ;-)
Changed the oil. Forgot the crush washer...reinstalled Drain plug with crush washer with ninja-like speed.
Made mental note to use 0w-40 next winter.
Spent 30 minutes with a wire brush removing road salt. Still worth it.
Received new Rein motor mounts today
Changed the oil and recorded a video along the way! It's surely one of the most common and easy jobs out there, but still figured I'd use it to practice my DIY making skills.
You Tube
Looked all over the car; no wheel lock key to be found. Of course, prior owner said he didn't have it either. He owned car for several years and the tires on the car are relatively new. So, that really doesn't compute but I don't see why he'd lie about it if he had it. Whatever . . .
Anyway, just going to order a replacement key from the dealer, assuming they can identify which key needs to be purchased. I'm planning to buy a new OEM set of wheels for the car which will probably require new lugs because I'm switching from aftermarket 19s to stock 18s. Would rather buy new OEM lugs to match the new OEM wheels when the time comes.
Update
: The dealer identified the wheel lock key as #58 and a new one has been ordered. Delivery/pickup pending in a couple of days.
Maybe post some video and photos so the rest of us can tackle this mod; I'm planning to do this over the weekend.
Dyno sheets would help as well....thanks
Uh...apparently I was pretty challenged just doing the project, much less taking pictures and creating videos of the project. A few takeaways from the project:
I used the Mantra kit as supplied by Crutchfield. I am pretty happy with the trim kit. The instructions could have been a little better, but all in all were pretty thorough.
I opted for the wiring kit. The wiring kit worked well. I did not connect the brake switch wire to the brake switch. I used a brake bypass kit that negates the need to have to have the brake on to perform certain functions of the head unit. Do a brake wire bypass search on Amazon, they have several.
The upholstered side trim on each side of the center stack is removed by pulling the forward ends loose out, away from their clips, then sliding it rearward, toward you. I forgot that minor detail, something I should have known about with all the different write ups and videos I had seen and read.
I decided to remove the plastic lower center stack frame, which made it much easier to route the HVAC control wiring into the lowest opening. It only required removing 4 screws to do that. The only down side I can see with doing this is the reveal line between the upper and lower center stacks is a bit wider than it was before I did the work. I might take the side trims off and see if I can raise the lower center stack by shimming it up to take out any slop in the screw slots on the frame.
The portion of the wiring route between the rear camera location and the head unit is somewhat challenging. There is very thick and relatively firm firm foam rubber insulation behind all the interior trim panels. I ended up removing all the rear deck panels, the passenger side, interior rear quarter panel trim and the section of foam insulation at the rear quarter panel and the door threshold, as well as the passenger footwell under dash panel. As I wrote originally, I was a little sore the next day from the contortions required to do that work. I used a 16” long 3/8” drill bit to create a space for the wiring to pass by removing the tail light, and the grommet the tail light wiring passes through, then drilled through the main wiring grommet and through the foam insulation. You must be careful here. You do not want to damage that wire bundle. My sunroof drain also passed through near that location. I did not know about the sunroof drain until after I had pushed the drill bit through. Luckily, I missed it by a 1/2” or so. I used a 3’ long HVAC zip tie that I had in my collection of stuff to push through the grommet and foam, then taped the wiring to it and pulled it through the grommet and the foam.
One snafu that cost an hour or so of delay was the HVAC unit would not slide completely into the lower space. It would get within around 3/8” of being flush, but would not go further. After much head scratching and measuring I finally determined that the ~1/8” ridges on the top, rear sides, about 2” long, needed to be ground down slightly. Once I did that, the unit fit in the space perfectly.
The microphone for the phone was just clipped to the top of the A pillar trim. I am not really sold on that location, but it probably is the ideal location, acoustically. I watched one video where one of the dummy switch fillers on the drivers side of the console was drilled to fit the diameter of the microphone perfectly. That installation looked ridiculously good. I may reroute my microphone to near that location and temporarily mount it test out the performance. If it performs at least close to the A-pillar location, I think I will do the permanent mount in the console.
I have not received the camera yet. Ordered straight from China, right before the Lunar New Year celebration started. Also right before the coronavirus outbreak started...so it might be awhile before I receive that. It will mount utilizing one of the license plate light lens locations. A combination light/camera assembly is made to fit the license plate light opening, maintaining the light and providing the mount for the camera. I will update the project when I receive the camera....some day.
Hopefully this makes sense. Feel free to ask questions, I would be happy to respond.
Finished installing the mini-split unit in my garage so now i will have a much more comfortable environment for the overdue projects left to do on my 996, and for the future ones, and there are always future ones.. Don't have to wear mittens now, which makes it much easier to loosen nuts and bolts.
Wow, that's brutal for San Diego in Feb! If you live near the ocean its cooler than inland so it must be cooking in the foothills..
Balmy 65 here today, we're getting some of that same heat wave you are. But still down in upper 20's overnight.
Had top strut mounts replaced and 4 wheel alignment. Fixed my squeaky / noisy suspension problem. Now it sounds like my TT (silent). Can't believe the difference.
Replaced engine mounts on my 99 c2. Went with Rein oem. Should have been a one hour job max. Turned into a multiple day project when one of the nuts seized on the old mount. The bolt unthreaded from the mount with seized nut attached. Had to take the bolt and nut to Precision Tune. They were able to remove the nut. Got mounts installed. When I went to reassemble and install the two bolts for the secondary air pump i discovered the bolts would not fasten - they just fell into the holes. Turns out there are speed nuts attached to rubber grommets. The grommets disintegrated after 20 years and the speed nuts were just dangling from the grommets. So I have to order two speed nuts with the rubber grommets and all will be right.
friendly tip - Make sure your mounts come with nuts. Or order them with the mounts if unsure.
shifting does seem a little smoother and perhaps a little smoother idle. Mounts were replaced just because they were 20 years old.
Very nice! I did the double-din last year and have been very happy with it, but did not attempt a back-up camera. Agreed 100% on the Crutchfield wiring harness - made the new radio a plug-and-play.
Daryll
Thanks for the info on yours earlier, even though these are 19's I'm expecting good things when they get mounted, just need to find my original Lug bolts
I did not do anything today...just admired it in the garage....with all its rock chips in the front bumper and windshield looks sandblasted....and I still love my car.
Then pondered for a bit, and thought about the list of things I will do to it in the spring: Remove front bumber cover, clean radiators, put in the $5 screens on the scoops(home depot) , change sparkplugs and oil tubes, may be clean the engine from all the oil and grime.....and then continue driving it......
Yanked the cans off the back, and performed the Fister mod finally. 1st drive this morning was marvelous and reminded me of a smoother version of my 65Ghia
I also did this a few weeks ago - was getting intermittent CEL's that would show up then go away after 25 miles or so. It turned out that the gasket on the cap had cracks in it... Haven't gotten a CEL since I replaced it...
I purchased our 996.2 cab last summer and didn�t pay attention to the installed wheel locks. Fast forward 6 months, a flat tire and the discovery of no wheel lock key. I used the 11/16� 12 point socket hack to get the wheel off. I ordered a titanium set of lugs without locks off eBay and installed the ones I could. I took the car down to discount tire and they removed the remaining wheel locks. The car is garage parked and driven to places I consider safe so not too concerned about wheel theft.
Finished brake job ... discs and pads all around. Looking forward to track season.
of course, noticed a lovely philips head screw in one of the rear tires. No more track for these tires. Ugh.
also last week managed to repair wiper fluid leak ... cracked headlamp pump. Replaced both pumps while i was in there. Cleaned wheel well liner too.
Previous owner tried duct tape. Didnt work too well.
Slotted on front
From the glen iirc.
After experiencing a little strangeness in my electricals and then searching up some excellent diagnostic info on this forum, I replaced my voltage regulator.
surprised, at this apparent level of wear, that it functioned at all
Been through several of these caps because of cracked rubber gaskets. Thankfully they're not that expensive. I just wish they could design a better tether that wouldn't break in such a short amount of time.
It�s a painless job, really. Have an impact wrench ready to unfasten the nuts on the mounts. If the nuts are seized the bolts will unthread from the mounts. Have new mounts nuts ready just in case. And have a couple speed nuts waiting if those rubber grommets failed. One hour job after the car is jacked. Go for it!
Pre-soaking is key... PB blaster or similar..
I don't spray it, I use a old paint cap and spray some in there, then use a cheesy cheap brush to put it just on the threads and the nut.
Dropped c4s off at indy for new OEM motor mounts, oil change (UOA #2 via SPEEDiagnostix to follow), and passenger window regulator. Also ordered new summer tires, Michelin PS2, wore out Sumos that came with car 12k miles ago.
Over the weekend I turned from 159999 to 160000... (on the chassis that is - about 4300 on the new FSI 3.8... have I said how much I like it? - Oh yeah, I guess I have
)
I just happened to catch it at 159999... I was doing 74mph (actually that would be 71...) so I didn't have long to grab my phone and snap a photo...
The traffic was light, so it wasn't too dangerous
I also got the 4th coat of Leatherworld "dye" on the insert portion of my 997 Sport Seat (passenger side first) - it's coming out really nice. I think 1 or maybe two coats will finish it off. I'll just put 1 photo here, as I had started a thread when I got the seats - I'll put the rest there (along with the description of what I did, and why...)
Conti's on the 18" 5 spokes. The tires have plenty of tread but getting to the end of useful life.
my first priority is fitment w lowered suspension , I'm hoping 4 better ride quality, being a little larger, but if worse, I'll suffer until I replace the Pilots ( problably sooner rather than later.
Only wheel that I considered besides possibly some 40th anniversary wheels. I had them before on different P cars and MB's .
Expensive but I got a great deal from Rennlister..
11x19 BBS RSGT w HR Sport Spring Bilstein B8's
Rear 11x19 BBS RSGT w HR Sport Spring Bilstein B8's
18x10 5 spokes w 23mm Spacer w HR Sport Spring Bilstein B8's
Dealer fixed my CLS in my 2002 C4 Cab by replacing the driver's side door latch and also serviced the roof (leak tested (no leaks found), added fluid and bled lines). Cost me $1.1k.
Discovered from my manual that the CLS can be coded 4 different ways. Bringing it back to get it coded to lock when ignition is turned on and relock if opened and driven again w/o turning off ignition. Service rep will comp the recoding. Also discovered that spoiler cover was further damaged (one side as partially loose but fully loose) after the roof work. Not claiming that dealer did it but got rep to also comp the "labor -- only 4 screws but was scheduled for 1 hr @ $210 - for the part which is still ridiculously priced at about $500 plus tax).
Additional work pending receipt of spoiler cover. Also still waiting for the wheel lock key #58 which was previously ordered.
True but the CLS and wheel lock key was a dealer only fixable problem. Really couldn't save much on any of the parts purchased through dealer. So that's a wash.
Actually quite happy w/the treatment I've received from WC Porsche where the car's being serviced for the particular "problems" noted.
However, for all other work on my 911, MB ML350 and BMW 335i, I use my local indie shop, who where the labor cost is always lower and who will install parts that I buy as cheaply as possible online.
I do very little of my own work now; too old/lazy to do so.
Last weekend I built my homemade slack tube manometer and checked the operation of the AOS. After I returned from a 30+ minute trip, the crankcase vacuum was exactly -5� water column at hot idle. I am pretty happy with that reading.
It was pretty easy to build, maybe took a half an hour to build counting rounding up the stuff that I already had in my garage. My oil fill/manometer adapter was made out of a 2� rubber Fernco pipe cap. I had ordered an oil cap, but the one that arrived did not fit my car. It must be for a 944 or an air cooled engine.
Refilled my AC with R134a after replacing a crushed low pressure line under the passenger side of the car.
Harbor freight finest...
tested cold air output after charge and am getting about 39 degrees on a 65 degree day.
Nice and cold!
I need to do this on my car eventually, probably same spot as yours! Why Porsche didn't put a cover for that spot behind the passenger front wheel escapes me!
I think that picture was taken the day before I did the actual test. This was the image from the test:
The camera angle does not show the reference marks in a true fashion. The dimension from start point to hot idle vacuum is 2-1/2� (x2 equals 5�).
I appreciate the kind words. I am not in the same league as some of the esteemed colleagues, but, I like to contribute if and when I can.
Thanks again,
Threw on some Avant Garde 19 inch wheels. I bought them off of a 997 owner. They have Bridgestone Potenza S-04s on them (235/35/19 - 295/35/19). Haven�t felt any rubbing in my short jaunt around the neighborhood. You guys think the tears stick out too much?
better pix to follow once I get her cleaned tomorrow.
Also, I forgot to credit where I originally saw the homemade slack tube manometer...a poster on Renntech did a very in depth DIY write up on it. I did not go nearly as all out with my assembly. I am pretty sure I have seen the same idea on Rennlist as well.
The slack tube manometer reminds me of the old water level, ie, the garden hose with a clear tube on each end. You cannot get more accurate than a water level. I am thinking the slack tube manometer has pretty much the same degree of accuracy. Neither of the tools is particularly convenient to use, but they sure are accurate.
Yea i have 285's on 19's with a 40et. With the rear at 2.5* camber and fenders rolled i still rub a little. My car is lowered 1.5" but the bump stop should be close to the same place.
yeah I haven�t had any rubbing yet but the tires need to be replaced as they are 6 years old. I�ve read that 295/30/19s fit better. Not sure if there�s anything I can do with the wheel sticking out tho
yeah, I don�t know if that�s the look for me. Here�s some better pix. Anybody have suggestions for a better lug nut fit? I�ll be buying new mugs as these are silver and are just plastidipped black as you can see they are peeling.
Toonces, I'd check those bolts, they look like the regular Porche OEM lugs, which I believe are ball seat.
My car came with a set of the AG M510 wheels. I asked the folks at AG whether the bolts were interchangeable and their response was that the AGs use
14x1.5mm
conical seat bolts, not the Porsche ball shaped bolts.
They mentioned that they sell them for $40 a set in black or silver. Can't find it on their website though. I'd shoot them an email.
Here's a shot of mine - it sits much further in than I see on yours -
Just hope your bolt seats arnt messed up...
Bought a Cayenne that had totally wrong bolts for after market wheels and tires shop refused to remount the wheels and said the seats were shot. Ended up becoming garage art.
Also, those wheels stick out way too far. Might be best to go back to the drawing board....
Powder coated wheels and replaced center caps so the car would look fresh for the season starting soon.
"Old" wheels need to come off.
New vs Old
Fresh paint, maybe a little shiny, but on the car they look great.
Ready for the new season.
Yesterday... replaced stock bumper with Porsche Aero-Kit/GT3 bumper... It turned into a huge 7 hr. job including cleaning out the rads/condensers, cutting out the hole for my center rad and replacing a bunch of rusted/corroded hardware (speed nuts, screws, bolts and the like - good thing I had them on hand...). It came out great though, and I'm really happy I did it (but sore from rolling around on the concrete floor). pics to follow...
I got it here in the classifieds - yes I had it professionally painted, but need to take it back off and have it re-done. I didn't notice when putting it on that there are a couple thin spots where the primer shows through the base color. The lighting in my shop is horrible and when I got out last night it was almost dark - today in the sunlight it's pretty obvious...
Test fitted this service cover for the front seat.
It's made of the same material as the regular engine service cover.
Did an AOS test using the tapped oil cap method. After I did the test I was searching around Rennlist and saw that everyone else using this type of manometer had the hose on the left port whereas I used the right side port.
This is the reading at idle with a cold engine. From what I've read, this is just a tad high. I'll check it again using the other port on the manometer. The 'instructions' that came with it are hilariously bad.
I'll also check it with my old school version.
After all that grueling work, I took it for a nice drive.
Apparently there's a concert at the stadium next month. I can't keep up with all these new bands the kids are listening to.
No, not from Dharn - there was another guy that had bought 4 or 5 of them a few years ago, and had sold all but this one. It had been sitting around for a while and the primer was in really bad shape - flaking off in places and sanded through in others, but I got it for really good price so it was a worthwhile gamble.
Killed the battery by leaving the headlights on overnight. Took the opportunity to install a CTEK tender. The wire harness that comes with the charger is pretty short. They make a longer one that I'll eventually install so that I can plug the car in without removing the plastic battery cover. I couldn't find a ground post nearby the battery, so I just used the battery's negative post for now. When I install the longer cable I'll try to find a more suitable place to attach the negative/ground.
On my 02 I plug in the tender to the cigarette lighter power port. It does not turn off with the ignition so it�s easy to connect and disonnect. If your CTEK did not come with this adapter they sell it as an option.
Did the car not notify you audibly that lights were on when you removed the key? Not criticizing just making sure its not something that can be disabled
Replaced passenger sun visor mirror housing, small thing but so satisfying to know that it works now and looks better as well.
Old system did not had the foldable cover, so the light did not work.
It just looks better like this!
And it works!
I had to replace both of mine when I got my cab. Seems if one isn't careful, closing the cab top can break off the covers if left open. The PO wasn't careful......
Got new Lloyd's floormats! Went crazy and ordered with the silver porsche script to match the door sills, white gauges and other silver accents. Pretty happy!
Thanks wahooz for keeping them in such good condition and don�t think I didn�t notice the Porsche crests all pointing to the valve.
also got nowhere on the restoration of my dads 912e but that�s just one mystery after another. But great working with him and my brother for the day and that�s what it�s about.
Dad has a 912e with a bad motor. We tear it apart over Easter weekend. The motor is rusted internally. The original motor is cleaned up (see my daughter sitting on it as my emoji) and is now a table in my basement. A local air-cooled guy builds us a high compression 2.3l type 4. We strip the car body down to bare metal and ship it off for paint back to the original Peru Red, a wonderful color and the painter did an excellent job. We got it back last spring and then my brother and I decided to have multiple children. So progress has been slow but the body is mostly back together and the drivetrain is in. The frustration this past weekend was the rear bumper and taillight assembly. We got everything test fitted and then discovered that that one of the bumper shocks is broken and not spec anyway. Oh well, it�s the journey on this one.
Found a wheel lock key for my 2000 C4 Cab today. Hooray!!!!
Bought this car on 8/31/2019. Didn't realize that the car had wheel locks on them until a month ago. Was told Porsche dealers have all the wheel lock keys you need and that they could find a match. Not so. They only have keys for THEIR locks and the locks on my wheels were aftermarket of unknown origin.
Found a site that sells wheel locks and bought one that "should" have fit the 7 spline pattern on mine. Just received the keys and the do NOT fit because the locks on my wheels do not have evenly spaced splines -- they are offset with 4 splines on top, 3 splines on the bottom w/a gap on both sides. SH*T!!!
Was ready to just take it to my indie shop to have them drill out the locks out when, on a whim, I decided to stop at a local wheel shop and "low and behold" they had a key that matched!!! It was beat up but it FIT perfectly and bought it for $20 cash.
Problem solved, thank GOD!!!
I think that what he's trying to say is that most people treat their cars like garage princesses and believe that they can be damaged by every day use.
Yeah, that was part of the plan but I'm not really interested in throwing another $2-3k at my new to me 996 for new wheels/tires this time.
It's taken about $3k to fix the various "minor" problems that came w/my Craigslist find for $15k and it's about as good as it can get for a 20 yr old car, except for the nice looking but heavy 19" wheels on it now. Only lighter wheels would make it better and I've still got my mind on buying a set of 18" OEM Turbo Twists and putting a set of Michelin Pilot 4Ss on them but that will have to wait for now.
Just relieved that I found a wheel lock key and don't have to worry about that anymore.
Handed the car and the keys to my indy to fix driver side window regulator (it's been in my DIY queue for a month, and I'm tired of not getting around to it), and decided spontaneously that 10yo front tires should go, so ordered four PS2's, and splurged on sending left rear rim out for a cleanup of the slight curb rash there. Looking forward to getting it back Friday morning. Finally sprung for Durametric, and pleased that cam variations still good, at 0 and -3. (Previously measured with Foxwell a few months ago...) While my NA 996 is in the shop, I'll be in Chicago closing on the purchase of
this 2001 Turbo
. I'm thinking month of March is prepping the NA 996 for sale on BAT. Looking forward to getting it totally dialed in, and experiencing the other side of the online auction process.
Replaced the defective fan resistors by the $7.99 Amazon one (100W Watt 0.5 Ohm) mounted on aluminum heatsink ($8.99) with Thermal Conductive Glue ($ 5.98) and screws.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KJYSSSX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KJYSSSX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UJ95TOE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UJ95TOE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCDRL7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCDRL7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Both fans work now at low speed for $23.00 instead of $300.00 (Porsche tax)
Got a new rollbar cover installed on my 2000 C4 Cab at the dealer today.
This was the LAST thing on my "to do" list of things that needed to be fixed or purchased for the car, which included: 1) a spare key (including the blank, remote and coding), 2) a radio manual plus 2 new radio *****, 3) a new driver's side window regulator, 4) a new driver's side door latch that was needed to fix the central locking system (CLS) and re-coding the CLS locking option, 5) refurbishing the roof system by replacing the hydraulic lines, refilling the cylinders w/new oil and bleeding the system, 6) fixing a uneven gap in the roof along the frame on the driver's due to a detached cable, 7) finding a wheel lock key for the wheels (a PITA!) and 8) replacing the rollbar cover.
I may still buy a new set of wheels/tires as mentioned previously but that's entirely optional and I'm in no rush to do that yet. So, until something else needs to be fixed (knock on wood), I can just enjoy driving the car now.
Hooray!!!
Replaced starter motor today on my 99 C2. Didn�t realize how worn the old one was until the new one was installed. Old one would occasionally make a grinding noise after start. So decided to be proactive. Found a new Bosch starter on Amazon for $90. Wow! What a difference. Just the sound of the new one took 15yrs off the car.
There was a small amount of oil mist in the intake plenum. AOS is next on the list. Was told a new one might resolve a mild rough idle issue since plugs and coils didn�t resolve.
Alignment of the new Ohlins setup at the dealer here. They gave some nice compliments on the state of the car, mods and especially liked the CAE shifter.
Overall pleasant experience and pretty economical. I requested as close to GT3 specs as they could get it. Drives great on the street now and I can really get a feel for how much an improvement the Ohlins offer over stock.
Also buttoned up my harness install the other day.
Some recent pics;
Installed the Specialized ECU Repair immobilizer case on our cabriolet. The biggest pain for me was getting the seat out.
Here is the unit before I buttoned it up.
Here it is sealed. More like water resistant with the wire entry points being the area of concerned even with the generous amount of silicon I used in that area.
Bought the group for $42 off ECS recently. Light output is good and I didn�t realize that a few had burnt out along the way. Super Easy and worth it, even just to get rid of the heat output on the old bulbs. Challenge now is to keep the car long enough to see an LED burn out.
Interesting, i just installed one today, thanks for the pictures! I had to send my ECU/Immobilizer/keys to the ECU Dr for testing and, since it was already out of the car i bought the "waterproof" box as well.
My car has a Recaro seat so the rear seat bolts are almost unreachable, it takes about 15 min per rear bolt to remove or reinstall.
But, now when I drive my Cabriolet thru the car wash, when i forget to put the top up, no harm will befall the ECU
Finished installing paddle shifters for my tip!
Haven't been able to test it yet, need to replace the AOS before i drive it again. Have the Ultimate AOS on order. 996.2 Tip, so it's going to be a b*tch to install....
Glad you found the pics useful. Wow, 15 minutes per bolt huh...no thanks. My situation was due to being the first time removing the seat. Now that I have done it once it can get done in less than half the time it took before.
You take your car through the car wash?
I pay the extra dime and have a mobile service clean ours.
Brought car home out of storage and washed...then claybarred using griots synthetic claybar...worked great. Then polished and waxed. Sure looks purdy!
Also, not sure I ever showed the steering wheel that I bought from RLer. Also looks great and love the feel.
Yeah and I have to reach under the seat to get to them, can't see them so do by touch with about 1/4 turn at a time with an open end wrench I don't take the seat out often. But I really like the seat.
Naw, no car wash, I hand wash my car. Just kidding.
I have no idea but I'll take a look at. it
However, if I ever get a flat on the road, I'd just get AAA to flatbed the car to the nearest tire shop where the tire can be fixed or to my house where I can remove the wheel myself and take it to a tire shop later.
My main concern was just finding the wheel lock key (that didn't come w/the car) so that I could get the friggin wheels off, whether they get flat or not
At least that problem's solved.
I did LED lights in my car and also love them.
You're right about the heat output. I found at least two melted parts that were caused by the old bulbs.
Pulled the front bumper off to repaint the faded lower bumper grill trim and clean behind it. Discovered a torn hose I believe is for the windshield washer system. I would've tested it but I had JUST finished washing it. Can someone confirm?
edit-should've taken a picture of it
Last night I installed new PIAA xtreme white plus bulbs and broke 2 out of 2 triangle reflectors. Today I drove it, and tried to un #@*% the reflectors by mounting them with Proseal 890 B1/2
Changed the clutch booster spring last week.Hope to make first drive this season and test the new spring tomorrow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzMOVB52bDI&t=1s
TireRack and ECS both have them right now. I got my fronts from tire rack several months ago when they were on sale. Then got my rears at Summit about a month ago.
Joined the list of people that have removed the front bumper and cleaned the radiators/condensors:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...he-ground.html
^^^^ I'll be doing that this weekend, along with sway bar drop links.
Ordered water pump, coil packs, metal AOS connector thingy, and associated hardware, which I am also doing this weekend.
Get the car up as high as possible if using jack stands, 4x12 blocks under the stands and I used ramps up front. Removing the deck lid really helps as I got tired of hitting my bald head on the fan.
Lower the motor and be patient...The furthest intake runner bolt on bank 1 is a bitch. A shortened box (I have 10mm bolts, some are E-Torx) wrench was the only way for me as a socket will not fit in there. Maybe a ground down socket might work. Follow Pelican Parts Tech section on this and use a telescoping magnet to fish in and out the bolts...Drop on (I did) and you're pulling it all off again to look for that bolt!
I'd gladly pay someone to do it as I have a bad back and arthritic hands.
Starter and fuel injectors where easy while you're in there.
If you get hung up and frustrated, walk away and relax...
Took mine to NJMP for a scda drivers day. Although it was in the 50s ot was a fun day with a good group. I was even able to pass a few cars by the end of the day. Sorry no track pics just a pit shot. Only issue i had was a hose clamp broke in the pit and caused me to dump some coolant. Luckily had brought some and topped off with water.
Looks like you had a great day. I have the same wheels and love them. I bought them with a set of mounted winter tires years ago and decided to make them my year-round wheels.
I took the front bumper & air scoops off, cleaned out the condenser and radiator & replace the horns. Sadly the new horns didn’t solve the problem, When I put the fuse back in, they just blast non stop. The previous owner said he fixed the bushings on the steering wheel.
finally started the paint correction on my speed yellow c2. front and driver side done. ill get some good pics when the weather is better, hard to see in the garage. really happy with how the paint is taking the correction.
Didn't do anything today but it looks like I'm going to have a lot of free time coming up to catch up on projects.
The word came down a little after 2:00pm from the GM's office and I'll be 'teleworking' for at least the next 30 days. I'll probably only be on the clock for 15 hours a week so that's 25 extra hours for wrenching.
i have a porter cable DA buffer, lake country orange pad and mequires 105 cutting compound. The Porter cable was like 120 on amazon.
I have used a bunch of different machines over the years, i have a bunch of stuff from groits but i have grown beyond their stuff.
pm me if you would like to chat, happy to give tips etc.
Just got the horn fixed! Since the PO said he'd "fixed" the bushings in the airbag retainer with no luck, I'd taken off the bumper to replace the horns. That didn't solve the problem. So I did some reading here, went to Lowes and got some #31 O rings. I took the steering wheel apart and found that the PO had put some red goo inside the bushings to try & restore them. No way I was getting O rings in there. I finally broke down and ordered a new airbag bracket from Pelican. Put it in today, put the fuse in (while holding my breath) and no horn blast. Tapped the horn and it worked!
Next up, I want to replace the coolant and the brake fluid. I need to decide if I want to do that myself or not. I think the stuff I need to buy to do it would approach the cost of having an Indy do it.
Awesome! Well done.
Are far as brake bleeding, it's super easy with one of
these
Far easier than the wheel work you just finished.
Coolant is also pretty easy, particularly if you follow
Ahsai's brilliant procedure
. It absolutely works a treat. You will need a
vacuum filling setup
vacuum filling setup
though. The link is to a "good" one, but I picked up a cheap Chinese version at my local Canadian version of Harbour Freight , that works fine for the few time I actually use it.
If you use the vacuum method for replacing coolant, you will find that it�s easy and painless. However, be prepared to replace any hose you remove, as it could break or leak, although I did not have that problem on my 21-yr-old car.
Thanks, I was unsure at first. This is the most drastic thing I have ever done with a car, my most bold color choice has been anthracite. I think it contrasts with the blue and Savanah interior really well, I am going to post more pics tomorrow when I can get it out of the garage!
It's a powder called goldtastic with a clear finish and I put opti-coat pro+ on them as well.
I actually thought about doing my winter wheels (twists) Gold, but I have a silver (Porsche) side stripe - so I think they'll clash...
They're black now, and kind of beat up so I'll probably strip and re-paint them car color (OBM) for next season...I think they'll look really nice.
I hear you. Now I am considering what to do with my calipers, they are bubbling, I feel like red is always a classic caliper color but then I have too many colors going on. Might just buy a set, have them powder coated and rebuilt and then replace and sell the old calipers.
Yeah, I read Ahsai's write up. It looks pretty good but I'd need to buy that vacuum apparatus for $135 and I might never use it again. I want to see what an indy will charge for it and go from there. This may be one of those times where it would be more effective to just have it done.
The PO told me he'd already fixed the bushings so I thought it might be the horns themselves. When I got the wheel off, I saw a bunch of red goo in the bushings that was supposed to be the "fix". I was going to try the O-ring fix but the goo wouldn't allow that. So I ended up spending $100 on the new bracket. Horn works!
I had Sally haul some lumber to build some stuff for the wife and kids. I got a lot of strange looks but I have really come to appreciate how practical these cars are. Don�t get me wrong, it�s not quite my wife�s Honda Odyssey but it goes a lot faster!
I had the same problem in my e46 M3. It drove me crazy for a year. After a BMW specialist couldn't figure it out I pulled the fuse to silence it. Eventually, I tracked it down to a screw that fell out on the inside of the steering and lodged itself in the horn spring. That was it, super simple. Maybe that is the issue?
You Tube
I have a coupe but i filled the front passenger footwell as well. Failed to take a photo. Yesterday was 1 year since I first drove & bought my first Porsche. 03 Semi garage queen with 21,700. Almost exactly 12,500 non dd miles later it is still as fun as day 1.
Stay safe.
Took my C4 Cab for a short drive before the next storm comes in tomorrow, despite the state's/region's "stay at home" order.
Maintained social (as well as safe driving) distance and didn't "technically" violate the order because I needed to fill the car w/gas. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Does your new AOS have the bottom hose and clamp in place? If I can make a suggestion, there is a clamp pull ring tool that you can order from the dealer. It installed on the AOS bottom hose clamp, and once you get everything in place you simply pull the ring tool off the hose and it snaps it closed. So much easier than trying to get a clamp tool in that tight space.
thanks for the suggestion. Yes. I did order the pull ring clamp. Got the lower hose removed this morning. Just having trouble removing the AOS now. Seems the aos inlet to the block is my hang up.
I know it is a lot of work to get in there. Been there, done that. Congratulations! Don't you just love that cheap plastic contraption? When I replaced mine I was very reluctant to put the new one in there. Another cheap plastic piece of crap to replace the original cheap plastic piece of crap. Remember when the PCV valve was on the valve cover and you could replace it in minutes with a $7 PCV valve? I know it is a Porsche but that doesn't mean it has to involve tearing half the engine apart, which it does. Did I mention I hate the AOS?
agreed. Reluctant to put in a new piece of crap. On the bright side I know I can remove it. Hopefully I can put the new one in and button everything up.
Fixed a weird frunk latch issue. I had the opposite issue as everyone, i couldnt get it to latch shut after filling it up at lowes. Luckily the frunk did not fly open at 50mph on the way home. Turns out the 2 bolts loosened so much the latch would not engauge. A little 10mm magic from inside the frunk and all fixed.
My 7yo decided that the spiffy whitewalls on our new-to-us '54 Chevy would look good on it's twin, the 996. So rather than drop a thousand plus on a new set of "show tires", we shopped for whitewall stickers. Who knew? All of $75 for a complete set. Keeping these in mind for 4th of July parade!
Twin sons of different mothers
Who knew???
Sweet! Post pics of the car with those stickers when you can. Also, nice truck! We have a 1949-1/2 Chevy 3100 in our family from the dealer new in 1949. Still runs great.
This is not a vintage truck forum! But here goes anyway. Not my actual truck, but close. Mine is a 1949-1/2 with a couple of options: corner windows and fresh air heating
I recently had a professional photographer, for the state of PA, take some pics of my car. Today those prints finally arrived! I'm so excited!!
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PA Turnpike, get your **** together! I have an EZpass.
I don't think they captured your best side.
Reminds me of an Ontario toll road that harassed me for years when I accidentally missed my exit and traveled for about one mile on their precious toll road before I could get turned around. ********!
I thought with EZ-PASS if you registered your plate with them then even if your transponder doesn�t work they match the plate to your account and just apply the toll. At least that�s how it works in NJ.
Yes, this is the common sense solution but not quite how it works. You have to fill in part of the form that says you are an EZ Pass holder and as long as your account is in good standing they credit your account. Its a lot of wasted paper.
I've only had my picture taken once and that was 11 years ago for a red light. I was pissed because red light runners are a big peeve of mine and I was sure my timing was good entering the intersection. After paying $600.00 in fines, fees and traffic school it was discovered that the company that SDPD hired to administer the lights was gaming the system. They shortened the timing between yellow and red to increase their cut of the fines. The red light cameras were history shortly thereafter and of course nobody got any refunds. Hell, I didn't even get a reduced fine for having my hands at 10:00 and 2:00 like they taught in driver's ed before airbags.
You can leave the axles in the hubs, not kidding...pretty easy and that's coming from me so it's saying a lot. Put a block under the diff so when the axle pulls out it has support. Maybe you've already done it before. Let me know if you have questions.
Yes, I have done it before but I had to pull the steering knuckle off of the axle - otherwise I couldn�t get the strut tower to clear the wheel well. ** I also have to replace the cv boots on the passenger side, so I have to take that one off regardless. Maybe on the drivers side I can get away with it.
Spell checker may have given you something you didn't intend...
I agree - but I would suggest putting your thoughts in one of the UAOS threads. There is one specific to the installation, so that would make the most sense.
LMs are such a classic and beautiful design
but it's kind of ashame all the details get lost in the black. Still looks nice, though. Congrats on the acquisition
It�s really just the pics. In person you can easily see both different finishes between the gloss and satin. I tried so hard to get good pics but my skills are for ****.
What did I do to my 996 for the last week....
New AOS
Rebuilt alternator.
New overflow tank
After taking the alternator off I could feel the bearings were a bit rough.
Alternator was rebuild by a local alternator shop with new bearings and clutch assembly.
The hardest part so far....was getting the new flexible AOS tube ends attached.
The small bolt on the right bank rear are next to impossible to see and align.
Also the small bolt on the AOS itself is also next to impossible to see. Got them both in; now lets see if I remember how everything else goes together that was taken out to remove the AOS.
First, it was very helpful to have the �101 projects for your 996� book. This book is an essential resource for the weekend warrior. Second, read as much as you can from the resources on this forum on this topic. Third, plan for a multi-day project and have a backup car for transportation. Fourth, order the quick release clamp for the bottom bellows when you order the AOS.
Those are the basics. Be warned this project will test your patience and ingenuity.
On my 99 MT it was essential to remove the coolant tank, SAI, and drop the engine to the support bracket for access. Removing and reinstalling the coolant tank tested patience. (When reinstalling, know exactly which hoses will interfere and adjust accordingly. Attempts to twist the tank to fit will not work. Put it in straight as possible lined up with upper support bracket) Follow the �101� tips book for helpful tips how to properly remove the intake plenums. They will be sealed to the intakes even though the clamps are loosened. (Reinstalling is much easier if you clean the boots, pleanum, and intake thoroughly. And loosen the comps to the max). I was able to remove the 6 intake bolts with a small 1/4� ratchet, extension, and socket w/o a wobbler. Yes - the 6th bolt is tricky. I couldn�t get to it from the left side and ultimately got to it from the right side. I found it extremely helpful to have hose clamp pliers to remove the various hoses on the AOS, especially underneath the car. I was surprised how difficult it was to remove the AOS from the block. The AOS port into the block was an extremely tight fit on my 99. Took a lot of time with various tools to pry that sucker out. (Reinstalling was as tough due to that port. The two fastener bolts alone didn�t offer enough leverage to properly anchor the port.) In hindsight I would have purchased a new AOS lower hose simply to make the Reconnection a snap. The old one was a bear to secure and remove. Hope these little insights help! The sense of accomplishment was worth it! That�s said, I�m dropping the engine next time....
Replaced the little plastic AOS cooling connector with the aluminum one, prior to starting my UAOS install. The old one was only a few years old but, still, plastic. Holding the old plastic one next to the newly installed metal one (red arrow).
Jon from EBS Racing here. Many Rennlisters have been looking forward to seeing the results of our big bore conversion projects... 996 3.4-4.0, 996 3.6-4.0 & 997S 3.8-4.0. Unfortunately we've had to cancel the scheduled dyno time this week do to current events. We will reschedule when safely possible. We will post updates as we get new information. You can sign up to receive our latest updates here
EBS Racing Newletter Sign Up .
We will also post updates here on Rennlist. If you have any questions please email me
[email removed]
Thanks
Jon
Depending on your state and/or facility performing your inspection; you may be required to use the orange reflectors, in order to pass.
My local dealership (PA), said my car would fail because of my smoked/clear turns.
I went to my uncle in-law's shop, and got it inspected. He didn't even make note of them.
Either way I'd suggest keeping them boxed up somewhere JIC.
Yea in DE i have to put $3 of reflector on mine. We have state lanes so no avoiding it. I stick them on as i pull in and remove them as soon as i leave.
Thanks for the heads up. In Kansas, the only inspection performed occurs if you purchase a car from out of state, and that inspection basically looks to confirm the mileage and that you have an engine as far as I can tell
. There is no recurring inspection. I'm hoping this won't be an issue.
Took the car over to the coast to capture some more Porsche ****. Put the drone in the air and tried the follow-me function for the first time. Fortunately didn't crash done, or car.
Low altitude drone shot.
High altitude drone shot. Parked it outside this turn, slalomed through the turns, with thumbs completely off the RC sticks, and the drone tracked the movement well.
i am going to tackle the motor mounts this weekend. i have the mounts, the 3m window sealant to strengthen them. will be my first real wrenching on the car. may also do the heater blend door.
I finally got my C4S out for the first time this year. Took it to Menards to pick up hose to make a slack tube manometer.
Tested the crankcase vacuum and had about 5" so my AOS appears to be working fine for now. Eventually I'll be investing in the UAOS.
Changed the oil, using Motul 5W-40 8100 X-cess and changed the filter to the Napa 1042.
Two wheels were looking shabby. The ones on the driver side. I had them powder coated recently. They turned out great.
Attachment 1312947
Put the 2021 registration sticker on.
I also made a 996 quarantine to-do list. But before I start on the list, I had to spend a few hours tidying up the workshop. It was a complete disaster area.
Added some more wall 'art'.
Enjoyed a quick �essential� trip this morning...
1). Just beat a fantastic looking thunderstorm
2). Enjoying the black exhaust tips
3). Very happy with the new steering wheel (sorry about not vacuuming the car :/)
4). Appropriately rewarded myself
Spent over 4 hours doing a thorough wash to include every inch of the wheels. Then took it for a drive. I miss driving it! I usually drive it for an hour twice a day going to/from work. Put the car cover on after it cooled down, it's getting to be oak leaves and those pesky worms that fall from them.
I miss driving it!
Not sure, looks like this
https://www.vividracing.com/porsche-...152498015.html
Looks amazing but I'm too cheap to spend $800 on a steering wheel. I'll think I go with the youtube magic eraser option I just learned about
Ditto
Took a 100 mile mental health drive. Got it up to 120 during 1 high speed pass. It was fun!
Smoking a cigar and drinking some wine in the sun in the backyard now.
Thanks Mike, there is a RLer here who brokers the steering wheel with a friend of his who does the work. I will send the info (need to dig it up, sorry). The quality is top notch. Yes, will get some more pics of the tips later today.
Thinking about selling. I don't have a reason to sell, but I don't have a reason to keep. I'm working from home the next couple of months and my 996TT is more than enough to run around when needed. Help! What do I do?
I've written about the car in this forum a bit - I absolutely love it and see it as a fabulous compliment to the Turbo. It's pristine, black/black, IMS is done, and is super shape. I'm conflicted.
The biggest unknown in my mind is how to actually do a deal from home!
Is it even a good market to sell? I guess it can't hurt to list but the reality is it's going to be next to impossible to do a sale, at least locally. I believe in PA the DMW is shut down and all the tags places around me are closed.
For the steering wheel, RL solow took care of it. Quality is 👌. Some pics of the original also.
Here are some more pics of the exhaust tips, I do like them, but not sure I LOVE them 🤔
I finished installing KW variant 3 coil-overs I got from a fellow Rennlister a couple weeks ago...I've still got some "dialing in" to do, (I just have everything set to halfway) but I have to say I'm impressed so far. One thing I'm a little bummed about is that my front adjustable drop links are too long (Torque Solutions) ,so I had to use the ones that were supplied with the struts. I think I may need to modify them a bit to make them usable again...
RSS Dog bones and Torque Solutions track rods. Unfortunately the eccentric bolt on the drivers side track rod was totally seized inside the bushing 😩 I had to order a new bolt, so no driving �er this weekend...
^^^Yes! Me either... I got a great deal on the dog bones used (those things are crazy expensive when new). I�m looking forward to getting an alignment (GT3 specs?) once I get the drivers side finished.
Took it for a very very spirited drive. Winter tires are coming off today, rims being refinishing and powder coated, and new Michelin PS2 going on.
Stay safe.
Replaced 22yr old Alternator today. Took quite a while to move the bracket bushing and unseat. Tapping on the bolt didn�t work. Ended up hammering at it directly with a long socket extension. Moved bushing just enough to pry the alternator with a long screwdriver. Install was a breeze. No more light dimming when SAI turns on and new case brightens up the engine bay nicely.
While in there I discovered reason for SAI CEL codes. One plastic tube was disconnected from black/white vent valve and the other was disconnected from the rear plenum. Job for another day.
I just don't see how y'all Yankees and Canucks can store your car all winter.
I've been having a withdrawals from not driving mine but once in the last three weeks.
I took it today to pick up some sauerkraut and pickles at the local farmer market.
I volunteered to get up early and take my car just so I could put a few miles on it.
I also got gas and did a little bit of fun driving between destinations.
Got passed by a black Mercedes going over 100mph.
He wasn't going over 120mph though.
I topped 120 a few times today, on winter tires, maintaining all social distancing protocols. Dropped it off for few days for rims/new summer tires. Tomorrow i break out the 997.2 F6I 4.0. Nobody will be passing me.
I stared longingly at it in the garage this morning for a while. Won't be coming out for a while longer yet because road salt and fresh snow the other night 😖
In the meantime I think I will flush fluids and clean things.
Put in a new wp and 160* t-stat. The old wp bearing felt like marbles so im glad i changed it. I also found out my aos is failing. It tested over 13 in at idle so ordering a new one to go with the uaos i already have.
Since i have to wait for the aos im gonna order as many of the soft coolent hoses i can find since most of them feel pretty bad. Off to find the diagrams.
well autoatlanta just got me for a bunch of money. I think i just ordered every soft line and clamp on the car for the coolant. Also got a few things for the uaos install and the latest resi cap.
9a1 with bore scoring that previous owner sent to Jake for diagnosis and rebuild. Only owned it a month (only 5k miles post build) and still trying to get it registered with DMV closure.
Went for a drive with my son's white C4S so I was just a passenger. We followed my friend (other C4S in picture who took us on some nice windy roads. It was really cool seeing the pleasure my son got from driving the car he bought a few weeks ago from his savings
Me: This project is going to go great.
Also me: Throws wrench into the woods.
I started removing my mufflers, all things considering I only snapped 1 bolt. The muffler bracket bolts are also a real pain in the butt.
Lol....that wrench was no good anyway😃
I did the same years ago when I was ready to install fabspeed supercups...as I was taking out the stock mufflers....one side was real easy but the other was frozen solid....so I put everything I had into it, and it snapped. Right then I realized, I was torquing the wrong way....wish I had a woods!!!
I definitely second-guessed myself on the direction a few times, it's hard when it's so rusted and tight. I am 80% of the way there on the mufflers, I just need to do the 3 bolts on the pass side muffler bracket, they were actually easy to break loose on the first side just a pain in the butt to get to. All of the hardware for the brackets has so far been in good shape, soaking them now to clean them up. Have new tailpipe clamps and muffler/cat pipe clamps on the way. This should also make doing spark plugs a breeze.
I did the same thing a couple weekends ago, luckily only snapped one bolt. I ended up just cutting off the muffler pipe to catalytic converter clamps and also the ones for the tips. The corrosion on each was amazing.
I've lived in a dry part of the western US my entire life and not used to stuff like this at all. I don't know how you east coast guys do it. I hope you tip your mechanics extra.
Removing the mufflers makes the spark plugs and coils a breeze. I can't believe people actually do that job without removing them.
Cleaned out the front radiators. The amount of crap that fell out leads me to believe it may have never been done before. Radiators did clean up nice and neat, however.
Also installed the engine skid/protector plate that was missing when I bought the car.
Took it out for a very nice drive in the rain.
Mufflers, coils, and packs all removed. Coils look to be in decent shape, with no visible cracks. One plug has a small amount of oil on it. I have coils coming, I have no idea how old my coils are, should I replace them all them while they are out?
Finally got around to installing new pads and rotors. Also replaced the DS window regulator that has been giving me fits for a few months. Next up is tackling the passenger window that doesn't retract when I open the door.
Dave
Picked the car up after having the Front Clip repainted. Debated about whether to do it at all since it is mostly for track duty, but very pleased with the results. They also easily took care of things that bothered me for the last 5 years. Final list:
*Fr Clip repaint
*Center Radiator Grille Installed
*PDR all around
*Roof molding clips replaced
*Headlights refinished and sealed
Spacers make a world of difference, wish I went slightly bigger in the front though. I am 90% done my muffler, spark plug, and coil pack replacement. It all went back together much easier than it came apart so that was nice and my new clamps showed up as I was starting to fit the mufflers. I also had the misfortune of shooting a hefty stream of penetrating oil into my right eye. Tomorrow will be tightening down the some misc. bolts, and reinstalling the bumper.
So im doing some maintainence since i now have time in the evenings. I already pilled the drivers intake to replace the aos and install the uaos. I decided to pull the pass side intake to replace the long aos hose and put a new oil fill hose in as i see oil seeping through the ribs. Also gonna do all the rubber coolant hoses and vacuum lines while im in there. I pulled the alt to get access to the fill hose bolts and to clean and now its locked up, so ot looks like i need a new one. Where are u guys getting replacents. Gonna swing by the local rebuild place to see if its salvagable. I see autohouze has a bosch reman for $240+ core. There is an amazon seller that says he has new bosch for $240 no core but i doubt its really bosch based on his description.
current state of motor
The po also used a $8 pully to replace the tensioner pully. It almost had the correct offset. I dont understand not using the correct parts.
Took on the task of pressing in/out the manual transmission mount.
Rented the AGA tool from a member here and removed and replaced OEM mount with the Lemfoerder 99637505505.
Fairly simple job with the tool but should have raised the car a bit more to make things a little easier.
Also reinstalling the Function First yellow inserts.
Slowly replacing 17yo rubber bits.
After 5 minutes of flushing my eye with water, it felt fine, not even red. The skin around my eye burned for a bit though, I was surprised considering between the oil and the force of the stream. Anyway, I ended up finishing everything up today, got the bumper back on and took it for a drive.
I had my alternator rebuilt by a local alternator shop several years ago. As I remember, it was well under $100 and it has worked perfect since. An alternator is a pretty simple device and a Porsche one is really not much different than every other one.
I droped mine off at the rebuilders today. Mine was already a bosch reman but thats not surprising at over 200k miles. Ill report back when i hear from them.
Glad to hear that your eye is Ok. However, for entertainment purposes, I encourage all RLers to document any minor garage mishaps for our collective benefit and learning!
On a roll lately, so far this early season I've fixed my HVAC mixing flap, installed new mufflers, plugs and coils and today I put the stock head unit back in. The car came with a Kenwood which had some nice features but it was a pain to see in the sun and the stupid Bluetooth mic and wire drove me nuts, the wire would never stay seated behind the pillar and was always in the corner of my vision. Cut that cord and yanked it all the way out, it was satisfying.
Finished installing adjustable dog bones and toe rods on my '99 996. Should have been done in half a day except for to seized eccentric bolt
Finally decided to overnight one on Tuesday. Was supposed to be here before 12:00 yesterday... no luck - showed up at 5:00 (even thought it was out for delivery at 9:43 am and the hub is no more than 20 min from my house
)...Now I just have to get it aligned...
Last night fixed my intermittent front driver side blinker.
The bottom contact in the socket is worn and prying it up to give it a little more contact with the bulb seemed to do the trick.
Took it for a nice beating this morning, 1/2 hour in fast blink is back. Proceed to treat the car even worse for the mis behaving.
Got it home, fixed it, again. Sure it won't last very long so I bought a new socket from Pelican. One more fix to go.
'99 C2, 46k miles
Fairly simple job. No need to put the car on jack stands as there is plenty of space. Found that I needed to raise the engine enough that the square on the motor mount is engaged with the engine carrier but it does not lift the mount out. After first bolting down the mount and a good visual check from below the car I went ahead and put on the 18mm nuts. Old mounts definitely extended but stiffness felt the same.
Took it for a much needed sunroof open/stereo blasting mental health drive*. The City isn't screwing around, every single parking lot entrance around Mission Bay had barricades and a guard.
Beautiful day for a drive though.
*disclaimer: I fully support the quarantine efforts and except for taking a few pictures I never got out of the car or had
any
contact with anyone else.
I changed the front hood struts, cabin and engine air filters on my 5 week old (to me) 1999 C2. Then I took a loop up to highway 76, over to I-15, down to Escondido & over Del Dios Highway back home. Then I washed it for the first time.
Meh. There was someone in front of me. There was a really slow moving Lexus SUV when I hit the one passing zone so I got past it but a few minutes after that, there was a Suburban in front of me the rest of the way. I didn't want to go that fast on Del Dios anyway for fear of debris on the roads because of the rain. The 76 was actually more fun today. Seems like there were quite a few people out today.
Installed the LNE 0.5 qt extended sump today. Great YouTube videos by Jake Raby that made this a not-to-difficult job. Will finish the oil fill tomorrow.
Yes, it�s a very simple mod.
I actually enjoyed installing my LNE 2qt deep Sump.
But I think next time (if/when I buy another 996 or Boxster) I�ll just go with the 1/2 qt.
Romoved front bumber and wheel liner on my 996.2 cab to change the driver side electrical cooling fan since it did not work at its low speed. Quite easy to remove everything and change the fan but very hard to refit the plastic duct for stearing the air downwards behind the fan. I almost gave up but finally it slided in position
While bumper was off I also cleaned between the radiators and condensors and although they looked clean from outside, a lot of leafs and dirt were hidden in there. Good day in the garage
Found that my replacement battery tray from eBay did not match what I had in the car ('99 C2). Anyone recognize which car the tray on the right is from? It is completely straight on both sides and the bolt pattern is staggered on both ends.
Couple of the holes are off enough that I would have to drill new ones. The foam piece pattern on the bottom is also off so will not seal against the bulkhead fully. The used part was 20 bucks so seemed worth the upgrade.
Thanks! The eBay parts finder shows this as incompatible for a 99 C2 ...as expected. Guess the wrong item got shipped out to me. In any case I need to cleanup the rust from all the associated hardware for the battery tray so this job will see another day. I put everything back together and went for a long drive today.
I went on a social distancing group ride with a bunch of local friends yesterday. She treated me really well, ran like a top, hugged the road, and looked sexy. So, since she showed me some love, I did the same today.
I used Griot�s Garage 3-in-1 leather cleaner and conditioner on the seats and the rest of the leather inside. I noticed she needed some love when I was driving yesterday. Looks much better now!
I also removed my suede Momo Mod 7 steering wheel and cleaned the suede. It had gotten a bit dirty and developed a sheen.
I also went for a drive today, was going to clean my car as well and just feel blah. I had another 911 owner stop and compliment my license plate so that was nice.
I started mine today after 9 long days. Fired right up. Then I took a short drive to drop off some essential paperwork in the mail. And to buy some essential beer.
I replaced the Windscreen washer pump. Nothing on you tube that I could find about how to do it. The nearest was a Boxster, It was close but there are a few extra steps involved.
Secondly was the motor mounts. These were pretty straight forward. There was about 3/4 of an inch difference in the drop of the old ones to the new ones. this snugged things back up with not so much of a gap between the tail pipes and the bumper.
Lastly was an new LN 160 degree thermostat. This wasn't to bad except for the very top bolt in the casing which is a pig to get to. You need to release the bolts holding on the coolant return pipe (?) which runs to the front of the car. A 10 mil socket on a swivel with a 10 inch extension bar to a 1/4 inch ratchet.
A very fun weekend. All done on Ramps.
One thing I did notice was that in several videos when you go to change out the motor mounts was to support the engine with a piece of wood spanning the underside. I had this to where it was nearly lifting up the car but the engine would still drop enough to where the you could not see enough threads on the new mounts to start the nut.
My solution was to jack up where the bottom of the engine bracket attaches to the engine with a block of wood and another jack. Once I had done one side I repeated on the other side but only on the bracket with a block of wood. This seemed to work much better and the only force was on the engine bracket itself so the was no chance of causing any damage. I just used a hockey puck size of wood in the Jack bowl.
On Sunday afternoon, I ran the car with the heater on full blast along with the blower to force out any air pockets that might have been caused (I don't have the vacuum system to do this) Let the car cool, then topped off the coolant and repeated the process. I will do this a few more times this week just to make sure the level is where it should be.
I hope my description helps with anyone else attempting to do any of these jobs.
Be Safe.
Yeah. Been doing a lot of that lately. Especially since I just got the car 5 weeks ago and would really like to drive it!! I keep imagining this conversation if I get pulled over:
Officer: "Where are you off to today?"
Me: "We're allowed to go out to get food aren't we?"
Officer: "Yes"
Me: "Well, I'm going to Taco Bell"
Officer: "Which one?"
Me: "Palm Springs" (Palm Springs is 2 1/2 hours away)
Over the weekend I started the process of removing all the caked on and dried compound left behind from the lazy "detailer" who didn't properly mask off seals,trim, and edges all over the car. The rubber seals on the roof moldings were practically white. Tedious work I tell ya but I don't mind
I heard the Taco Bell in Julian is pretty good too.
When I took my point A to point A drive last Saturday, cops DID cross my mind.
I wasn't all that concerned but just to be on the safe side, I had my government I.D. and one of those inter-office manila envelopes on the passenger seat. If I got pulled over I had some B.S. story ready about how I was picking up some important papers from a coworker.
^^^ There's nothing saying you can't go for a drive... it's one of the things that's keeping me sane (besides working on the car).
^^ This being said, I took the car to get an alignment after installing KW variant 3's and Dog-bones and adjustable track rods on the back - amazingly, none of the rear measurements changed (I just measured the stock parts with a tape measure and set the adjustable's to the same measurements) everything was within spec. The only out of spec. #'s are the front camber - -3 left and -2.8 right... Looks like I have to get a set of adjustable camber plates.
I'll be selling the Tarretts when I do...
** I also got a 4.7 mile walk in, while waiting for the alignment to get done - overall a productive day!
Haha! Nice. I'm not all that concerned either. I don't think they're pulling anyone over. They seem more concerned with people gathering at parks & beaches.
would a set of gt3 lower arms be an alternative to swaping out the camber plates? My car has them but its way low on regular springs and at 2.5*, but i have plenty of shims to remove and straighten up. The po put them on so i havent really looked into it.
Slowly installing the UAOS in my spare time.
So far I got 1 bolt off the AOS and have removed the intake, throttle body and both the plenum and resonance tube.
I decided to stop there tonight.
Then I decided I’d do a quick replacement of the plastic joining socket/coolant hose connector/flange with the metal one from �ro.
The old plastic one broke off in both hoses, so I’m glad I replaced it now.
It took a while to retrieval the pieces of plastic and to flush out all the tiny plastic bits.
When it looked like I’d gotten all the plastic pieces, I started installing the durable metal one from �ro...then I did this.
I was holding it by hand while tightening the bolt.
It wasn’t even snug yet.
Anyone remember who sells the stainless steel one?
Nevermind, I found it (
Rauch & Spiegel
) but it’s not stainless steel, it’s aluminum.
After looking closer at how it mounts, I think this was self inflicted.
I don’t think I had it mounted correctly.
I‘ll try another �ro.
That's a real bummer. Nothing worse than doing a preventative step and having it go south. I replaced mine while doing the UAOS without a problem.
How many hours do you think it will take you to do this job? I'm at the "remove the AOS" so I can get at the back manifold bolt. But, spring yard work may now interfere with my car working time.
Took it for a nice drive along the beach to stretch its legs (and mine). The car hadn't been started in over a month but the four year old Bosch AGM battery fired it right up (no tender). It was nice to get out of the house.
Yes, I think you're right however there is a U-T story saying SDPD has cited 125 people to date. I've apparently read my one free article for the month so I don't know the details.
I saw this guy about an hour ago on 15 north. I guess
essential driving
is subjective.
Tex, After looking at your URO piece, when you get your piece from R&S, you will notice the R&S part is better design part. I just installed mine yesterday. I feel better now knowing and glad I got the R&S part even though cost more.
Hmmm. I'll have to look that up. I was thinking of taking a run to the top of Palomar mountain and back this weekend. I went grocery shopping and to Lowes yesterday to pick up some tools to do my plugs/coils/tubes in a few weeks and didn't see any cops. Didn't see any on my Del Dios drive this weekend either. Oh. I wanted to mention that I had Del Dios all to myself heading west on Saturday which was cool. I didn't do anything crazy. I'm a wimp when it comes to blind curves.
I�m just working about an hour a day.
Today I got the intake manifold out.
I was surprised how easy it was.
I was expecting it to be a lot harder.
It took me about 45 minutes.
But I couldn�t find the second AOS bolt. I�m guessing I�m going to have to remove a hose to get to it.
I didn�t try very long before I decided to put my tools up and go inside to eat supper.
I also bagged and tagged everything I�ve taken off.
I can see my AOS now.
Fyi i was able to get both aos bolts out easily from underneath, but its a manual and i have a lift.
if alll i was doing was the aos replacement and the uaos i would figure a full day. Probably half that if i were to do it a second time.
also still waiting on parts from autoatlanta. At least its been cold and wet so i dont really want to drive the car
I have a manual, but just jackstands.
I don�t think I can reach it from underneath, but I�ll crawl down there and try tomorrow.
I�m just wondering how I�m going to get all the bolts in place when it is time to put the intake back on.
especially bolt #6.
In addition once its in how to torque. Im pretty sure ill have to lower the engine some.
Put a head lamp on and slide under the car its pretty easy to see the aos and get a 1/4 drive with a deep 10mm. I acually did that first then removed the intake.
I added a spoiler switch to the radio surround trim and wired it from the switch down by the fuse panel. Now I can more easily deploy or stow the spoiler at will.
I got it out.
It took about 30 minutes to get the second AOS bolt out and the hoses off.
I couldn’t reach the bolt from below.
I had to get to it from above.
I have a 996.2, so that might be why I couldn’t get the last bolt from below.
I decided to quit until tomorrow and rest some.
Old and new AOS.
Unfortunately when I was about to sit and rest, my wife asked me to help my 13 yr old daughter do the yard work.
I must have picked up some bad gas, because I had to take apart and clean the carburetors on my mower and edger.
They wouldn’t start..
The bowl for the edger had small metallic flakes in the bottom and the carb was all gummed up.
My blower has a clogged fuel filter I think.
^^^ Ethanol - it eats all the rubber bits in the carbs and the fuel lines You may as well replace the carbs (they're usually around $60 - $80) - in the future don't leave gas in them if you can help it...
Picked it up after basic detailing and small paint touch up. Since i just had the rims refinished i decided to have them ceramic coated along with the red brake calipers.
The continuing saga of my spare time AOS replacement:
The removal of the old AOS was not too difficult, except for the second bolt on the AOS.
Now that I know the trick, next time (I hope not) will be much easier.
Installing the new AOS was very easy.
It only took me 30 minutes to get the hoses on and the bolts in.
The intake manifold was also easy to get back on.
Then I saw this:
DOH!
So now I get to wait until Wednesday for a new oil filler tube.
Since I had to remove the idler pulley to get the alternator loose so I could get to the second oil filler tube bolt, I decided to order a couple of idler pulleys while I was at it.
I also ordered some hard vacuum lines and elbows.
I should have had them on hand in case I broke one of those...now that I've broker 2 other items, I decided there was no way that I wasn't going to be prepared for those tiny plastic vacuum lines going forward.
If I don't use them now, I'm sure I will need them in the future.
That's interesting. When on the freeway I am usually going 80mph and don't really need that spoiler up (at 75mph) just for normal freeway cruising. Car looks better with it down.
Drove it to my Sister's in La Mesa to borrow her hair clippers. Came back home and did two things I've never done in my entire life. One was cutting my own hair and the second was making bread from scratch.
There will be no pics of the haircut but here's one of the bread.
Changed the parking bulbs in the headlights. And mounted a rear view camera. Just so everyone knows, pushing a wire through that grommet in the back is a MAJOR %#*&^$ pain ... not to mention all the interior trim and carpet on the passenger side had to be removed. And bumper, but that was easy. Found alot of loose crap that we tightened up, though.
FYI - An easy and long-term fix for the broken filler tube is to wrap it in a section of 2" marine grade heat-shrink. It looks stock and makes it a lot more flexible.
Of course, yours broke at a slightly different place but it should work the same.
So I consider myself a novice when it comes to auto mechanical work but am trying to learn more every day. Yesterday I replaced all 4 wheel center caps w/ new ones from Suncoast (newbie admission - apparently I have to go back and just to make the bottom of the crests point to the valve stems
). Also replaced a brake light bulb and the drive belt! Really proud of that last one...was actually very easy (Thanks you Youtube!). Planning on AOS/IMS/RMS/Clutch at my local Indy sometime in the near future. Will leave the heavy lifting to the pros!
Today was radiator cleaning day....a lot of crap came out...have not done it in 3 years....I think I gained about 5HP and runs about 5F cooler...
Right about the time I started putting things back together
That looks like a good idea.
I�ll have to pick up some 2� heat shrink in case it ever happens again. ( or to help others )
I�ve already ordered a new filler tube from Pelican Parts.
I was shocked at the price!
$75
"
Also replaced a brake light bulb and the drive belt! Really proud of that last one...was actually very easy (Thanks you Youtube!). Planning on AOS/IMS/RMS/Clutch at my local Indy sometime in the near future. Will leave the heavy lifting to the pros!"
Also note that you "paid yourself" a couple hundee, instead of paying someone else... It pays to be handy
"I‘ll have to pick up some 2“ heat shrink in case it ever happens again. ( or to help others )"
Just make sure you get the "marine grade"(as mentioned earlier) or the "out door/direct burial" type with the hot glue inside - or you could develop a vacuum leak...
Thanks. I stock some spare 996 parts, so I don�t have to wait if I need them, or to help others if they need something right away.
I used to stock BMW parts too,but started running out of room and gave most of them away.
Most of the cars I work on are older Domestic and Asian, but occasionally I get to work on European cars.
Doh, I checked Suncoast and couldn�t find it, then checked Sunset.
I used Google Shopping and didn�t find a significantly cheaper price so I went with Pelican. (I like that they�ve published DIY info)
Tranny fluid flush. Polish and wax.
pretty much wrapped up my project list. New summer tires getting installed on Wed. Looking forward to a fun summer.
OMG! Pushing wiring through that grommet WAS a PIA! I was pretty sore from being crammed into the space behind the seats. There is a lot of thick insulation back there. I sure like having the camera view though.
I use them for oil changes on all cars EXCEPT the Porsche........Porsche oil change is done by just using the slope of the driveway...I get enough clearance to do it while keeping the car relatively flat
I finally was able to get Mobil 1 5w-40 replaced with Driven DT-40. I had dropped the oil off at my indy probably 6 weeks ago and then the world went crazy, work went crazy, and we couldn't sync our schedules until this morning. Two previous UOA indicated excess oxidation and hence the change in oil. 6 months or 5k, whichever comes first, and i'll do a 3rd UOA.
I changed my 6 year old, H8 battery (that read 11.8V at full charge) with a new H6 battery. I saved almost 10 lbs.
I know it can't be true, but I swear the car sounds better now.
I finally received everything I needed to finish my UAOS install + maintenance.
In addition to the AOS, I also replaced my oil filler tube, vacuum hoses, vacuum hardline, vacuum elbows, vacuum tees, idler pulleys, intake gaskets, t-connector, coolant hoses, and AOS hoses. ( a lot of while you’re in there stuff)
I swapped out my Ben‘s plenum and GT3 throttle body for the original factory one.
The Ben‘s plenum AOS connection is different and I decided to not modify the UAOS.
I‘ll keep the Ben‘s plenum and GT3 TB for a future car...or I might just sell/trade them.
I learned some new tips that really make R&Ring the AOS a lot easier.
I‘ll post those tips when I get a chance in the UAOS Tips and Tricks Thread.
The UAOS runs under 5 in/H2O.
The best thing is I hadn’t driven my 996 in almost 3 weeks, so it felt awesome on the short test drive.
I should probably repeat the test drive soon...just in case.
Here are some finished photos:
Looks great. I have a cold air intake as well. I was a bit freaked out when I was driving in a light rain and all of a sudden this huge white cloud appeared behind me for about 10 seconds. I was freaking that the motor was blown. I spoke to the guy who installed it and he said water got sucked in and made that cloud. I will be going back to the stock air box It looked like a scene out of a Bond movie
Pulled out the radio, center console/sat nav, and temp control units.
Going LIGHT WEIGHT for a Track/Autocross/Weeekend warrior Cabriolet!
That should save around ~20 pounds by my hand scale (LOL).
Next is carpet, which is recorded to be ~40 pounds.
Then mufflers, another ~40 pounds.
Aftermarket seats, ~40 pounds.
Goal is to be under 3k pounds.
Debating whether or not to remove the softtop and softtop mechanics. I feel that would be close to 100 pounds.
Sat nav w/ CD, lower console trim, lower console covers. Space Grey
Drove my 02 996 80 miles today. It started right up after sitting for a week, no smoke out of the exhaust. About 20 miles into the trip I get the ding from the computer complaining there is no oil and the oil pressure gauge read zero. Less than a minute later the gauge came back to life. Boy was it fun getting out on the road!
My touch up kit from Dr Color Chip arrived today. Now if we can one freaking clear day in NH I can wash the car and fix the myriad of chips in the paint.
Now where is that damn oil pressure switch I ordered from AutoHauz!!
Nice work on the install !! See, it wasn't hard at all..
Can I use these pics?? I like the look with the Fabspeed Dual Open Filters and Carbon Fiber Weave.
I'll help you save more pounds and trade you my base interior for your full leather interior. I won't even charge you for it and I'll let you pay for shipping, too. I heard that leather weights 200 lbs more than a standard interior.
Gorgeous day here in PA, got the car washed and top taken off. Took me 10 minutes tops to clean all 4 wheels that I recently applied Opti-Coat Pro+ to. Then me and the wife went for a drive.
Well, Porschetech3 pointed out to me that I needed to re-arrange the brake booster hose and the UAOS hose.
I took care of that today,
I also safety wired my oil filler cap.
I changed where I had it attached to the engine.
It was previously attached to the oil filler tube.
Now it is attached to the Fabspeed carbon fiber heat shield.
Now I can check my oil (I almost always check at the pump) or add 1/2 a quart of oil, again at the gas pump without having to worry about dropping the oil cap.
Yes I have dropped the cap before...when the ground was wet...and landed underneath the middle of the car...when I was dressed nicely...
I've also learned more about the UAOS monitoring capabilities.
It makes me even more happy that I've installed it.
Now I feel like my car really is ready for the track.
Now if a track would just open for a Saturday track day, or if an AutoX would be scheduled for a Saturday...I'M READY!
Oh, and when the engine is warm, I'm seeing this from my manometer now:
This pic was taken before I relocated the UAOS & brake booster hoses.
If you haven't installed the UAOS...you
NEED
to!
VERY NICE!
Do you plan on adding a rear spoiler?
I recently damaged my passenger side sideskirt on the bottom.
Jackstand shifted and fell over while raising the drivers side.
Thank you!...Maybe a ducktail in the future but for now she�ll be wingless. That stinks about the damage, but the install wasn�t too difficult if you wanted to do replace it yourself.
They look nice! I wish they had the MKI type. I made the mistake of getting the Duraflex side skirts - Major night mare! They were really cheap (I think I paid $150 for both left and right). They're not terrible, but not "bolt on by any means. There's a lot of fitting and fiberglass work to be done (trimming, adding/taking away material etc.) just to make them fit and look decent - then they have to be painted. In hindsight, I should have just spent the $1k and gotten the factory parts, as I'm going to have way more time than $1k in them plus what it costs to get them painted (maybe I'll paint them myself...).
I was going to swap out the incredibly dusty Textar brake pads with a set from Akebono's
Dust-No-Mor
� line but we have a bit of a heat wave going on so I wussed out. I think I need to buy one of those collapsible canopies.
Took the scenic route to my Sister's to drop off a bottle of champagne for her birthday. Even got a thumbs up from a random stranger at a light.
Not a lot of traffic out and about.
You Tube
I've never experienced that.
I was worried about it until I drove though some heavy rainstorms.
I think it is less likely to take on water than the factory intake.
Mine made it through driving in Hurricane Harvey and never had any issues.
Thanks for the "plug" !!!
I'll be doing an Advertising Campaign before long and using some of these great pictures were are getting now. I haven't been advertising, just offered for sale and posting development progress and getting the build process in order while training some help to deliver in a timely manor. I'll get into the details of the monitoring "watchdog" strategy in the advertisements, and go to Facebook 996 pages ect.to spread the word. But for now, Rennlisters are the only ones who know about this invention..
This weekend I tried to restore my extremely faded front grille plastic from a milky white to black with Solution Finish.
Unfortunately for me, it looks like at some point it must have been clear coated (I'm pretty sure the bumper has been given a respray) or something, because the product just would not absorb into the plastic. It stayed on the surface and wiped right off. With Plan A a bust, I'm considering whether to pull the grill off and strip/scuff/repaint it, or if I should avoid the pain of stripping whatever coating is on there, and buy a new piece (looks like they're running ~$180 on pelican right now).
I've been able to restore all the plastics on my car with either solution finish or cquartz dlux except for that piece. I am just going to order another, it's not that expensive surprisingly.
I doubt you had water in the intake. When I had my K&N, I drove it in the pouring rain many times and checked to see if the filter was wet when I got home...Not a drop until I opened the lid and a little spilled onto it. Pretty amazing how well the lid seals in the rain.
Think you might have something else going on.
I agree, I have had a Custom Open Filter intake on mine for over a decade and no problems running it daily in all weather, torrential down pours included.
A friend of mine gave me a special "sock" type cover for open filter that is suppose to shed water while allowing total air flow, but I misplaced it in my cluttered basement somewhere and never installed it, and haven't needed it, but I would put on in if I ever run across it...lol
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1501x1797/_dsf0943_1__bae82f42ec58f807ef47f0d6afb7900ba8f4ce3e.png
"Originally Posted by
Hoguer62
View Post
Looks great. I have a cold air intake as well. I was a bit freaked out when I was driving in a light rain and all of a sudden this huge white cloud appeared behind me for about 10 seconds. I was freaking that the motor was blown. I spoke to the guy who installed it and he said water got sucked in and made that cloud. I will be going back to the stock air box It looked like a scene out of a Bond movie"
That sounds more likely to be an AOS problem than a "cold air intake" problem... (ie: oil through your intake as opposed to water... if you get too much you can hydro-lock/do serious engine damage)
Changed Dash Strips in Graphite Gray interior after wanting Aluma-Look ones since day one of ownership. Looked like a tough Job, RennTech.org gave me idea of drilling around screws from front to back. Removing Air vents and Horseshoe Collar- One hour install time.
Suncoast Porsche items
996-552-996-12
996-552-998-14
996-552-959-10
260.00 + Tax and Shipping
Nikon D810 24-70mm f.28
Nikon D810 24-70mm f.28
Original Gray Strips/original Door panels. bright sun thru Targa Glass
I'll get some better pic in different light later.
Well, I never thought that spacers were worth the cost due to how little they changed anything.
But...I picked up some VERY cheap used 10mm spacers a LONG time ago.
They have just set in the box with the longer lug bolts, which I didn't need.
With COVID-19 keeping me home, and the fact that my stud kit is good for up to 10mm spacers,
I decided to give them a try last night.
Here's before and after pictures:
Before
After
OK, I guess there is more of a difference than I expected, and it looks better, and the price was good.
But I could only get 6 turns of the lug nut on the stud.
I've decided that's not enough, especially for when I AutoX and when tracking my 996, so...I ordered 14mm longer studs for the rear of my car.
I just hope that I receive them before I go back to work.
Triple digits (yes occasionally) with just 6 threads doesn't sound safe, so I'll remove them if I end up going into work before I receive them.
Wow you hit a hundred on the way to work? Nice. Unless you're using kilometres per hour. If that's the case, I do a hundred in my driveway....
The spacer looks good. It might even look better out in the driveway, away from the trash cans.
Part of my daily drive home is wide open on wide freeways.
Triple digits are a possibility, although I normally keep it 90mph and under.
I could do triple on the way to work, but by the time the oil is up to temperature (6 miles-ish) I've run into traffic.
By miles 10, I'm in stop and go traffic.
It was raining last night, so I didn't want to move the recycle can out into the rain.
The red trashcan got moved though so I could get to the left rear wheel.
A went for a leisurely post work-from-home stress relief drive on the interstate and a BMW gave me a reason to be less leisurely. At 135 he got a good look at my 4s� beautiful rear.
Cleaned MAF, throttle body, and K&N filter. The air filter is drying overnight because I waited too late in the day to get some sunshine drying action. I'll oil it up and put it back in tomorrow. Hopefully, I'll get rid of the 1128 and 1130 codes that I keep having to clear.
Be careful on the use of spacers. About 12 years ago I attended a workshop where some guru mechanics from Porsche were explaining wheels/tires/spacers to our local club. Bottom line is that unless Porsche makes and officially allows a spacer/lug nut combo, it is very iffy. They were very adamant that it's VERY dangerous.
Bottom line in my 20+ years of owning Porsche's - I trust the Porsche engineers over anyone else, hands down. (yes, I know about Jake and the crappy AOS)
I heard horror stories about issues with spacers back in the 80s and 90s when I was racing.
That's another reason why I've always been hesitant to use them.
It was usually due to someone using them on a car with studs and the studs were not long enough.
Also lug nut torque was not checked.
Porsche sells 5mm spacers for the GT3.
I had thought about going with those, but I have the 10mm ones already so I finally figured, "why not?"
I'm going to replace my 56mm rear studs with 70mm ones before I drive very far.
I'll definitely be checking torque for the first few hundred miles.
Woohoo, new longer studs should be here on Saturday.
So if I end up having to go to work on Monday, I'll be ready with longer studs and 10mm spacers.
New job...I've been working from home since I started on April 1st.
Finally will get to meet everyone face to face...or mask to mask...soon I hope.
Well not just today, I tore the car apart back in October for a bunch of work and finally got it done today, my reason for so long, my 94 year old father started having problems and I had to help Mom and Dad, he pass away in March and continue to help Mom with everything till this day, taxes,,bills and rental properties.. shelter in place didn't help any. finally finished doing all Spark plugs and coils, I used Denso iridium TT at .031 gaps, replace the water pump and low temps thermostat, also did the motor mounts and tranny mount. I really enjoyed using the vacuum lift coolant system on the antifreeze fill for the first timel. only thing left is to install the UAOS system when Skip ships it. Car drove great, smooth gear box operation with new mounts. Happy to have the car back.
Ended up building the LEGO GT RS and Porsche RSR during the stay at home. It was a lot of fun, I�ve never been really good at traditional model building.
I have one of those models, except mine didn't come with a Carlsberg.
I painted all the yellow bits gray a year ago, but haven't put it together yet.
There's a drip on the body near the sideskirts that I need to take care of first.
I didn't know what to expect when I ordered it and planned on painting it Arctic Silver. When I saw that it was already yellow right out of the box I decided to leave it be. My painting skills suck.
This morning I installed my new 70mm studs.
Here’s the difference in size:
The old 56mm studs:
Don’t the 3 month old(~2000miles) Pagid rotors look nice?
Size difference:
Size difference: haha optical illusion!
56mm studs with 10mm spacer...the lug nut was only 3/4 on the threaded part of the stud:
70mm studs with 10mm spacer, the lug nut is fully within the threaded part of the stud. Several threads are beyond the lug nut. Much safer IMHO.
Finished up replacing some hoses and parts to stop coolant leaks:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ant-leaks.html
Replaced the rear headlamp level sensor mount and hooked the linkage back up:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...this-part.html
Got some great help on these two project from forum members. Thanks all!
Of course, as I was finishing up, I found more issues. Found this on the floor under the car and figured out it's a stop in the transmission mounting part 996 375 255 05, so I'll be ordering two of those--the one still on the car looks bad too.
Went for a 90 minute drive with my wife who is recovering from spinal surgery while awaiting a covid-19 delayed stem cell transplant. Absolutely beautiful day here in NJ. Sunroof open, windows down, music playing. She has been basically house bound since October and she said the drive today made it one of her nicest days in a long time. Passenger seat hit and didn�t hit her in exactly the right spots. So much nicer when we can enjoy our 4s together.
1.- 90 Miles Highway drive to nowhere with the top down....(wife and I just got in the car and drove 45 miles thru several highways.....and then just turned back home)
2.- Oil change and filter when got home
3.- Washed the car
They fit fine. I just made sure I installed them like one is supposed to install exhaust components...….don't tighten stuff up until it's all in place.
No codes...….however I have my O2 sensor readings programmed out of my ECU, so I don't know if they'd throw a code or not. I had them turned off when I was running cat by-pass pipes.
Today was the day I was
finally
going to swap out brake pads but it somehow turned into a long drive around the beaches and bays instead.
The 996 is in the garage but I do all my car work on the back patio or side driveway. Since I don't like starting a car and then shutting it back off after driving a few yards, I usually go for a 20-30 jaunt to warm everything up. Today was so nice, I just didn't want to go home. When I finally
did
get home I would have had to still wait for the brakes to cool off and I still needed to wash my bathrobe and flip-flops before work tomorrow so brake pads had to wait
again
.
Heavy police presence along Sunset Cliffs but everyone seemed to be behaving social distancing-wise.
Well, everyone except
this
guy that you can see next to where my left ear would be. He was getting cuffed/arrested but for what, I don't know.
Random guy giving the car a thumbs up when I was turning on to Shelter Island Drive.
Saw quite a few P-cars. Four Boxsters, and two '80s vintage cabriolets, all with the tops down.
I saw this guy on Harbor Drive in a newer model but couldn't make out the year before I bailed out to Nimitz Blvd.
On Nimitz, there was a 996 coming at me from the other direction and I waved but I was going too fast to tell if they waved back. It was Arctic Silver with factory load bars on the roof. Maybe a member here?
So when I got home, I decided to work on the
other
996. Unfortunately when I ordered the kit, I forgot to also order glue. Until the glue gets here, It looks like I can use the template to cut out the carpet pieces and mount the tires to the wheels and that's about it.
Our first oil change today, 10 months and 7300 miles since Porsche serviced it. Mobil 1 5W-50 and genuine Porsche filter, housing, plug, crush washer, and oil cap. Put 8oz in housing to preoil, and almost 9 qts to just over half point on dipstick. I think half point on dipstick the ideal fill level to minimize both oil starvation and engine smoking. Plug and housing torqued to 35 and 19 ft lbs, zero drips.
Mobil 1 5W-50 is Porsche A40 approved, is the weight Porsche currently sells and presumably they have determined is best for 996 engines, is economical when on sale, and its heavier weight hopefully will reduce bore scoring. Will see if oil pressure and fuel economy differs from what Porsche dealer previously installed.
Liftbars, canopy, record player, and helpers make working on vehicle a pleasure.
No metal particles on filter, a few soft rubbery black pieces, these are very flexible I don't think they are plastic. Maybe a gasket material? But I think this engine is totally stock and never opened up.
Nice car!
I would highly recommend searching the forum to find info, then switching to Driven DT-40 oil. In a nutshell, it was specifically designed by Flat-six innovations, along with Joe Gibbs oil, for our 996's. I'll leave the details to your searches...
Went to bank and Walgreens.
*On Nimitz, there was a 996 coming at me from the other direction and I waved but I was going too fast to tell if they waved back. It was Arctic Silver with factory load bars on the roof. Maybe a member here? [quote]*
Thought this might have been me, but then I see you are probably in Cali. I�m in LA (Lower Alabama)! LOL
Finally finished buffing and polishing, gave it a quick wash, and put in my new litronic headlights I picked up a few weeks ago. Then off for a nice drive
" target="_blank">
I feel sorry for all you guys in the NE that have pulled your cars out of storage, cleaned them up and put your summer wheels/tires on! Good gracious - bitter cold and more snow this weekend. Temps below freezing. Ugh...
[QUOTE=FLTWRLD996;16600808]Finally finished buffing and polishing, gave it a quick wash, and put in my new litronic headlights I picked up a few weeks ago. Then off for a nice drive
[/QUOTE
that came out really nice!
Me too! Just not in term of removing swirls haha
Thanks
Wasn't easy but super happy with the results, I'll probably even add an extra coat of wax just to give it the extra depth and really make it pop
Been watching my BaT listing. Bittersweet as I do love this car.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...11-carrera-44/
However.... have a raunchy open class rally car arriving in a few weeks that'll alleviate the pain.
Hasn't been my first "6" series porsche, probably won't be the last. Loved my 986 boxster, loved the 996, maybe a turbo next.
I ordered a master kill switch.
I'm going with a Cartek GT.
https://www.cartekmotorsport.com/battery-isolators/
If there's interest, I'll document the install for a 996/986.
Mostly something else to do to the car / track safety.
Probably few people here will want to install one unless they're building an SP996 or SpecBoxster.
My sister's wife (yeah I know) hit my 996 with her tundra yesterday, they were here to surprise me driving all the way from Colorado, when I came home after work, I was definitely surprised! 😐
Ouch!
At least it doesn't look like they did much damage.
Take off the bumper and try popping out the dent from behind.
Shouldn't be "too expensive" to fix.
That sucks Ricky.
Depending on how bad it is you could try pouring boiling hot water over the dent then put a Bathroom plunger over the top and see if you can suck the dent out.
There are some You Tube videos showing how to do it. I guess it will depend on how deep the dent is and if it punctured.
Might be worth a try.
Thanks knobby and Tex I'll be inspecting it better over the weekend, It did puncture the paint though 😆 hopefully I'll be able to match that wimbledon green! Hahaha...
Got the car back from corner balancing and alignment of my �hlins setup.
I had previously had the car aligned upon initial install of the Ohlins at the Porsche dealer, it was relatively economical and they could do it on short notice.
Now that spring is here (at least I thought it was, it snowed this AM) I decided to spend the money to get the car properly dialed in before I swap out the smoked Sumitomos for some higher grade rubber.
Could not feel it out on the way home as it was pouring and the above mentioned smoked sumis were not lending a lot of confidence to any type of spirited driving in the conditions, although I can attest the alignment works sweet for hooning donuts in a empty parking lot with a muffler-less flat six wailing away.
Car weighs in at 3008 LBS with a half tank of fuel which I am pretty happy about with only minor weight reduction up to now.
Good question, not sure what they were set to prior to dropping off, should have been around 40R and 33F, had not checked in a while.
Corrected now though.
I wasn’t in love with the all black hood crest I just installed a week or so ago so I swapped it out again... I have a problem and I think I need help.
Replaced the dusty Textar Pads with less dusty Akebonos.
Cleaned the wheels.
And the calipers.
I used my homemade lift bar for the first time.
All done.
Took the scenic route back to the garage.
The glue or 'cement' as model nerds apparently call it came so I can move forward on the the
other
996.
Did my very first 996 oil change (and my first DIY oil change in ~15 years) Friday after work. I didn't know the torque for the LN magnetic plug was lower than the OEM. Tried to torque to 37 ft-lb and stripped the inside a bit. The next change might be "interesting".
Yesterday I changed the spark plugs, coils and 4 of the 6 tubes. The rears were just too difficult to reach and there was no oil on anything so I left the tubes in. I hope to have a detailed write up soon.
Uh oh! The LN magnetic plug is hardened anodozed metal, so if you felt it stripped, it was probably the softer threads on the aluminum oil pan. If I were you, I would plan on replacing the oil pan very soon. Get an upgraded deep sump oil pan.
Replaced the engine mounts and got tubing and adapters to fix the fluid tube to the headlight washers. Here in Scottsdale, I can't imagine ever needing the headlight washers but I can't stand them not working.
It was definitely the female part where the 8mm hex head goes in. I know the oil pan is fine. At worst I'll need to get inventive to get it back out.
I wonder why the torque specs are lower for the LN part if it's hardened? It's supposed to be 19 ft-lb but I was using 37 because that's what the OEM is. Another possibility is the PO took the LN plug for his 997 and left me with the OEM aluminum one.
Before installing Zimmerman rotors we painted the hub and fins with high temp silver looks sharp. Didn't think to dab paint in the drilled holes those now have slightly noticeable rust. Our Akebonos seem to require more pressure on brake pedal when making fast stops, and make essentially zero dust so worth it for us non-racers.
Your liftbar is interesting maybe weld a round hood that captures the jack saddle so it can never slip off and car fall down. Your design advantage over liftbars.com don't have to jack up sides rocking car, possible big disadvantage don't have clear access across middle of vehicle for working on engine, tranny, coolant hoses etc. If you remove jack while up on the stands I would add at least one more jackstand under liftbar so if one fails you still have at least two points of support each end of vehicle.
Before changing Porsche dealer installed oil took pictures of instruments at different operating temperatures and RPMs, then did the same after putting in Mobil 1. Driving route back and forth to work same traffic and ambient temperature. Pictures show oil pressure 1/4 to 1/2 bar higher with fresh Mobil 1 5W-50, and fuel economy 1 MPG higher. Will higher oil pressure result in less bore scoring?
If fuel economy stays higher that will give about 16 miles greater range per tank, lower operating costs, and gets our 911 closer to being economy car hehehe.
Intersting, Was previous Oil 5/50 or 0/40 ?
I wouldn't expect that much Viscosity break down w/ M1 ? but only staying at a Holiday Inn, no facts to fall back on.
Mike
Oh. And today after everything was buttoned up, I had the feeling that:
I put at least one of the heat shields on backwards.
The heat shields were touching the new, larger coils which might be a bad thing.
I wished I had carb cleaner to clean them because they're dirty!
So I looked up how the heat shield was supposed to go on, put the car back on jack stands, took the wheels off and took a look. I went out and got some 1/4" spacers, longer bolts and some engine cleaner. Came back home, cleaned up the heat shields (not sure if the cleaner worked any better than soap and water to be honest) and put them back on with the new bolts and spacers. It took me forever to get the right side heat shield back on with the spacers! I finally used some dielectric grease to keep the spacers from falling off & found out I needed to reverse the shield. Otherwise the top would hit something and the rear hole wouldn't line up. GAAAHHHHH!
A few weeks ago, I took the car for a ride and came back with a puddle of antifreeze under the front right radiator. I took the inner fender off and sure enough the radiator was leaking from the bottom seam at the tank. Like everything, I took this opportunity to due a few items.
Here is the old radiator.
Took off the front bumper and decided to add grill material to the vents, since I believe debris is what caused the tank to go bad. I attached the grilles using staples and a soldering iron. They came out pretty good.
Lastly, I had replaced my rear rubber flex brake lines with stainless steel ones last year. All the fittings in the rear were frozen and was lucky to get the hard line at the body separated from the flex lines. I knew the front would be no picnic. In the front I was able to get the passenger side flex line off after a week of soaking in penetrating oil and heat. Unfortunately, the driver side stripped so I had to replace the line all the way to the distribution block behind the headlight. Also, non of the hard lines from the caliper to the flex lines would come off without stripping. So I replaced all of them as well. Also, added speed bleeders while I was in there. Here are the old lines for the front and completed job on the driver's side.
Previous oil was put in at a Porsche dealer, and I didn't think to ask what brand and weight! I asked on this forum a few times and no answer has yet been provided.
Oil Porsche currently sells for 996 is 5W-50. They know much more than anyone else what's best for these engines so unless I hear a good reason otherwise I will go with Porsche's implicit recommendation.
The above oil is on Porsche USA's website right now.
"Oil Porsche currently sells for 996 is 5W-50. They know much more than anyone else what's best for these engines so unless I hear a good reason otherwise I will go with Porsche's implicit recommendation."
Really? They're the one's who were recommending 10 - 15k mi. oil changes too...
I'm not saying that their "classic oil" is necessarily bad, I just have a feeling you're paying a premium for those cool cans and not the protection of your engine.
I replaced the oil pressure switch on my 02 996. It took me a bit to get the crows foot and extension set up to fit onto the nut, but once I figured that out it came right off. I had visions of dropping the crush washer when trying to install the new sensor, but luckily it was tight enough on the threads to not move.
On start up the oil pressure gauge hovers near 5 but did not peg at 5 like before. When up to temp the gauge read around 3 bar when driving at 2.5k on the tach where before it was up and sometimes over 4 bar. So far, no more warnings from the computer that the car has 0 oil pressure.
Next project is to remove the front bumper and clean the radiators.
Drove it and called my indie to bleed/flush my brake fluid because the pedal "feels" too soft.
Don't know when the brake lines were last bled/flushed so that's the 1st thing that I'll do to see if it improves things. If not, I already had a set of Akebono pads and Brembo rotors on my "to buy list" I'll have my Indy shop install if the bleed/flush has no noticeable effect.
Part of the problem w/the "feel" of brakes may also be due to the heavy aftermarket 19" wheels and POS Nexen tires that came w/the car which need to be changed too (primarily to fix the handling) but I believe in taking small incremental and less expensive steps in addressing a problem. Brake bleed/flush 1st, brake pad/rotor change, next and wheel/tire change last. Looking at about $4-5k for the works and am in no rush to spend that much on the car right now.
One of the favorite features in my almost zero option 99 lol
I removed my shift **** today in order to prepare for a ssk
I punched myself square in the *****. That was nice
Not sure where I should post this and don't think an entire thread is necessary but I just got my car back from my local Porsche indie shop and looks like my AOS and RMS need to be replaced. They also recommend fixing my first gear issue. The previous owner had the IMS retro kit done so may not need one (according to the mechanic he has not seen a LN IMS fail) So with that said, does a repair estimate of about $4,500 sound reasonable to you guys?
New 996 owner in the last few months. Working my way in to some improvements and upgrades. So far minor stuff, a Rennline phone mount, repaired a loose sunroof button, replaced air filter, tried the Helmholtz delete (no real noticeable change), and ordered the parts to overhaul front control arms, tie rods, and bushings etc. Also had a loose accelerator pedal (side to side wobble) so thought I had the infamous broken hinge. Took it apart and installed the Rennline hinge. Couldn't find anything wrong with it, but replaced anyway and the wobble has gone. Took some work to get the hinge on though, didn't fit as expected.
Mine is in for an AOS right now. My Indie shop has quoted 8 hous of labor for that plus the part total for that is $1300.00
Seems strange that the RMS was not done when the IMS solution was done. Easy to do with the transmission out of the way.
Depending upon when the IMS was done, you may need to do it again.
I wouldn't do RMS and not do IMS unless it was done VERY recently. (Consider The IMS Solution and never have to replace it again)
$4500 for IMS, RMS, AOS, and clutch sounds about right. (I would SERIOUSLY consider getting the UAOS)
What is your 1st gear issue, pop-out?
If so, I think the 1st and second gear detent is the same, so I'd just install a GBOX detent and see if that fixes it before opening the gearbox.
RMS was done at the same time as IMS, just looks like its started to leak again. Breaking down the quote, they are estimating $1300 for the RMS AND $1250 for repairing the trans and about $1500 estimated in parts for the trans that includes a worst case scenario
Occasionally I will get a crunch like noise when I select 1st gear. Here's what he suggested "If you do some research on the transmission you will see a lot about the pinion head bearing failure. I don't hear that noise and I would have to inspect the trans when its apart. In your case so far its the 1st gear synchro sleeve or assembly. I would at least repair that and inspect the others." Later on he mentions " The big question would be the 1st gear assembly may need replacement which I have to include in the estimate, I don't think just the synchro rings are going to do it."
https://www.gboxweb.com/detent.html
This often fixes 2nd gear popout.
My second gear would pop out occasionally and was also occasionally making a loud crunch when going into gear when cold.
I believe the same detent is for 1st and 2nd gear, but normally 2nd gear problems appear before 1st gear.
I'm not certain it will solve your issue, especially if the crunch always happens, but it isn't very expensive and is not too difficult to install.
It's not a bad idea to have anyways.
Note: I am NOT a transmission expert.
It didn't have any. But being 20 years old and not having a very detailed service history (I only got it in November) I thought it was a good idea as preventative maintenance. I already got the IMS bearing done and the RMS.
OEM, OEM, OEM. Lol.
It is an anniversary edition so comes with GT3 Sides, Turbo Front end from the factory. I swapped out the Anniversary Edition Lip with an OEM Aero Lip.
I just had my AOS done for the same reason. Also, it was smoking (it seemed like) at start up more and more recently with no oil loss. Hope it helps!
Note: Dealer and Indy both said the smoking was normal and do not worry🤷🏻♂️
I just had 6 new plugs and tubes, New AOS and Intake Manifold Gasket, New Vacuum Tank, New Oil filler Tube and Tube Seal, A new x Vacuum fitting and 4 new rubber line connectors.
This was all done at an Indy Shop and will pick it up in a couple of hours and then off for a long spirited drive.
Next on the list is to do a Gondo / Fister hack which I will attempt to take off the Muffler's on Sunday and bring back to the shop I work in to do all the cutting an welding. Hope fully after that is done it wont sound like an asthmatic frog anymore.
I will try and take pictures and document as I go and If I do do that then I will post it back on here.
^^^ if the transmission is already out, the RMS is a $30 part, and it takes about 1/2hr tops to replace... They�re going to charge you $1300 for that? I�d call that Larceny! 😉👍
^^^ Trans is not out yet. You're correct he's only charging 1/2 hour for the actual RMS but I was including cost of removal/installation of the trans/clutch all together. Probably should have worded it better, my mistake.
I
FINALLY
bought Jakes DVD M96 Rebuild Series.
Pelican Group Buy FTW.
I also told my wife that I’m going to rebuild my engine when I retire.
She said, “Ok...if you’re physically able to. You might have to send it to Jake.”
Oh, wouldn’t that be terrible? Ha!
The quickest I have ever done a flywheel/clutch/pressure plate job was 2 hours on a 996/997. From the time I pulled in to the bay, looked at the clock, till the time the car was on the ground driving out..
The Porsche dealer I was at was 5 miles from Porsche Sport Driving School @ Barbers Motorsport Park. They had 75-100 car fleet and were constantly burning up clutches and wanted them back ASAP..Always needed the cars back before you even got started on them..lol.. Of course no IMS procedures or RMS since the cars were still under Factory warranty, but warranty didn't cover destroyed clutches...
In my high school days, I went through a lot of clutches on my 60�s Chevy. I could change a clutch in 45 mins. Only 4 or 5 bolts holding the transmission to the block and the U-joint at the end of the drive shaft.
Funny how I figured out how to grow up and drive �normally.� Haven�t gone through any clutch since.
[QUOTE=Porschetech3;16629922]The quickest I have ever done a flywheel/clutch/pressure plate job was 2 hours on a 996/997. From the time I pulled in to the bay, looked at the clock, till the time the car was on the ground driving out..
That�s impressive!
Took part in a Mission 22 (veteran suicide awareness group) rally drive through the housing at Hanscom AFB outside of Boston, MA. I proudly represented as the only Porsche in the group!
I thought I would try it, a 3 cent tie wrap fixed my passenger side window regulator, window would not come back down to clear the car when shutting the door, this picture show the fix.....
I have been wanting to fix this since last summer, even bought a new window regulator, have a spare now.
I went for a ride with my Dad, he spent the winter in FLA and just ended his 2WK quarantine since returning home. Really nice to get out with him and drive.
We went on some nice roads in South Central MA and into Northern CT. Took a break at Thompson Speedway to walk around and admire the cars.
The Benz is brutal fast in a straight line but not light enough on its feet to keep up with the Porsche on our twisty back roads.
Awesome day, might give it a wash before I put it away.
I was FINALLY able to replace the busted rear "Carrera" emblem with the one user JTT was nice enough to send me. It didn't come with the adhesive backing but I found a place called adhesive templates that was able to send me a pre-made one:
https://www.adhesivetemplates.com/
Taking the old goop off took forever!
Some times all it takes is just a better understanding of how something operates and a lot of the times something that needs replacement can often be fixed with some ingenuity. Sat down the other day and figured out why my drivers door would drop down off the striker and the window would make contact with the quarter glass when closing and opening the door. After some door, striker, and glass adjustments I got everything aligned and the sound it makes when closing the door has never been so satisfying.
What is this voodoo juice? What kind of chemicals? They must be banned in the USA! I picked a bad week to stop sniffing Gtechiq!
Thanks to Jaime for the reco, this is seriously good stuff✅
dporto what shop on LI do you recommend? I used m-chanics in Mineola (formerly Lynbrook) for my M3 and they also work on Porsches. They do great work but charge accordingly.
Southshore Performance in Freeport is considered to be one of the best, There are several in Huntington that are supposed to be good - I haven't used any of them as they're far away and I do most of my work myself (except for FSI 3.8 engine build). I've gone to the local Porsche dealer for a few inspections, and they've broken something unrelated to the inspection 2 times out of three being there. I've also had some alignment work done at another shop I won't mention... I don't know if this is helpful or not - I think you can tell I'm highly skeptical of shops. Most any shop that's worthwhile is going to charge around $150/hr. - which is fair if they're really good... (the Dealer gets $180 and I don't think they're very good...).
I've installed new shifter assembly with the centering tool and without.
If you install without the tool, all you have to do is count/mark the number of screw threads and reinsert into the new shifter at the same thread point. Pretty easy... the second time I installed one I had the tool. All the tool does is demobilize the shifter and makes it a bit easier to insert the threaded cable in to place, so you don't totally need the tool.
Lifted hardtop up to rafters to store. $8 Home Depot ratcheting pulley has no mechanical advantage when lifting and plunges when trying to lower, will be replaced by $23 Harbor Freight winch that looks like will raise and lower safely and easily.
I think I have a knockoff in my car too... installed by the PO. I slightly modified it to tighten up the tolerances and put loctite on the bolt that holds the shift lever in the housing (the nut backed out on me an fell off while I was driving!). I really like it. One day I'll get a Numeric shifter and cables, but for now, I'm happy with the cheapo short shifter. It's much better than my 997.2's stock shifter was.
Prismatic Powders Bronze Chrome with Casper Clear
Prior to the Matte casper clear being applied the bronze chrome looks like this:
And you can see the full bronze chrome plus matte casper clear in the picture you referenced and below. As the matte requires two stages it was a little more money but it came out exactly how I wanted. When they sent me the picture of the chrome bronze alone above, I was almost a little torn as I really thought it looked nice. But, I'm glad I stuck with the original plan.
Finally replaced decklid struts. They were shot when I got the car. Easiest repair ever and very satisfying😁
Also installed battery maintainer with cigarette lighter adapter. I�m very happy with it.
Got a CEL pulling into the driveway after my 54 mile commute.
Code says I�m running lean.
Going to smoke test it this weekend.
Not how I�d hoped to spend the next few days, but it could be worse.
The little things...Cabin Air Filter, New Battery, and fixed driver seat insert that popped out from old stitching. With the help of online videos and tips from y'all not to put key in ignition, I easily removed the drivers seat and had it repaired for $120! Deal of the decade! Put it back together without any warning lights on the dash...success!
I noticed when I took the tail light out, left, there was a cable that attached to the engine lid latch.
my car is an early 99 with cable operated front and rear lids.
why would there be an "emergency" cable ?
83 & full sun on the driveway, so I did my dreaded wheel cleaning in the garage. They look great, but are a real pain for me to clean. Reaching through all the spokes got too tight for my old hands, so I used some wheel-woolie things to reach to the back. Worked great - microfiber cloth really clings to the woolie wand. I used a matte detail spray on the fronts, even though these are more satin than matte. Whatever. I sat down at each wheel and took my time.
After that I put down the new rubber cord-protector strip - routing the charger cords through it and back to the power strip by the back wall. I got tired of dancing around all the cords and this way I eliminate yet another trip hazard.
I watched one of my five new DVDs.
I learned LOTS from just that one video.
Can’t wait to tear down my engine on my engine stand again.
I’ve then it down several times now, but still learned lots from Jakes first DVD.
I had a couple of AH HA! moments.
Catch up list from the last 2 years. I bought it 2 years ago, but only recently joined Rennlist.
These boards are phenomenally helpful. Here's what I've done to the car with and without the help of this group:
-2 oil changes: mobile 1 5w50, cut open oil filters, no metal specs found
-replace the HVAC fan
-pressure bled brakes with ATE type 200
-adjusted the shift cables
-fixed the convertible top by replacing a broken rivet on the top of passenger side cable and replacing all the elastic straps
-cleared the rain drains
-replaced headlight leveling clamp on the lower arm
-clay bar polish wax
-restored headlights, what is the most permanent solution?
-steering wheel off to reattach the computer indicator stalk
-rear tires: Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2; pressure at 32/40
-alignment, looking to cure a vibration at 65-70mph
-front bumper off to clean radiators, at least 20% area was caked with old plant bits. Not sure about gap spec bumper to hood
-replaced rear brakes: Akebono pads, Sebro rotors
-replaced engine mounts: rss 624, eliminated some weird acceleration vibrations I was getting at speed. Now to find all the 'new' cabin vibrations...
-fabricated a subwoofer box to replace one of the rear seat: JL 8w3v3-2, driven by the Alpine head unit, crazy sound improvement
-and most controversial, IPD plenum 3.6L, don't know about actual power increases, but throttle response is much faster at highway speeds, no more bobble off idle on slow speed starts
I realize I'm missing pictures. I promise to post them going forward.
Like all issues, there's a story behind this vibration. I actually had all the wheels balanced first. The vibration was still there. Then I had it aligned. And it still had the vibration. Because it was a resonance at a specific speed, It had to be something with the tire balance. So back to the tire store. The tires were older and maybe 2/3 worn, so I had them replaced and told them to watch the rims carefully and if possible measure the runout. They weren't willing to measure the runout, but they did find a small dent on the inner side of the left rear rim. It was big enough to be visible spinning on the balancer if you were looking for it, but easy to miss if just watching. New tires and a new rim later, no vibrations! What doesn't make sense to me is this should have been a continuous vibration. The old tire balanced OK, but the rim made it physically not round. Wouldn't that cause a vibration at any speed?
While this is maybe not the technical answer you are looking for, these cars are extremely sensitive to tire condition, balance AND pressure imbalances. My speculation is that the tire balances within the speed and variation of the machine. However, at a different/certain speed and condition, there was still an imbalance and you could feel it in your particular car.
last year I had a similar vibration in a new to me 99 996 Cab. After balance it made no difference I returned to the tire store and upon further investigation it turned out that there were two flat spots on the RH rims. They were able to straighten the rims and now the car is smooth *** glass at speeds up to eighty.
Usually out of balance or a bent rim will show up as a vibe around 65-70mph. Its a rotational frequency thing. Im sure there is a bunch of math that explains it but i just except it so i dont have to do the research. Driveline vibes show up at around the same speed too.
I completely understand how higher performance requires higher precision components and assemblies. And when they are complicated assemblies, the cause could be somewhat removed. The more interesting vibration that showed up shortly after this(maybe it was there all along, but I had not noticed it) was seemingly caused by the engine mounts. Hard acceleration from 60-90 and then holding at 90 would result in a similar type of vibration, like a wheel out of balance. But! This vibration would dissipate in a few miles at 90. This behavior was quite repeatable. From reading the boards, I decided it was likely the engine mounts. The thinking was that a hard acceleration would move the engine slightly, changing the alignment of the transmission and driveshafts. This would somehow create this effect. Sure enough, changing the engine mounts got rid of this vibration. The mounts were amazingly misshapen.. Maybe just a good guess. Now I have the problem of old interior rattles from better coupling of engine vibration into the cabin. It's been super fun to work through...
Oh, the car is a 2002 C2 Cabriolet
Sorry in advance for the poor Iphone photos...
Just picked up the car with the completed appearance items...I thought this was the best time due to COVID, and no track days
After 21 years of normal wear and tear, which included 4 years of solid track time, I thought it would be nice to spend a few $ on her appearance
*PDR all around
*Roof channel brackets replaced
*Exhaust Tips Aligned
*Front repainted..Hood, Fenders, Bumper
*Headlights sanded and clear coated
*Expel applied to headlights, hood, fenders, fr bumper
OK, time to get back to the use and (proper) abuse of this car!!!
Looks good, cleaning up the headlights alone can make a huge difference. My front end is pretty peppered but there is so much other stuff I wanna do first.
Picked up a set of Bilstein's B4 to replace the current ones of my M030 RoW Sports suspension. Will be putting them on next week . Banner was a present from the stockist I got them from , will be going on my garage wall
I received, and installed my new Element fire extinguisher and rollbar mount.
Now I have an Element & Halotron fire extinguishers in my 996
2 is 1, 1 is none.
I may get one for my Mustang and my Honda Odyssey.
This caught my eye. What Mustang do you have? I have a 2012 GT with glass roof that I have ton tons of mods and retrofitting to.
LOVE that interior, Randy! Looks brand new!
I have a 2006 Mustang.
It�s actually my son�s car.
He just graduated from college, (degree in Applied Robotics Technology) so soon it won�t be mine to worry about.
But I want to replace the dry chemical fire extinguisher that rolls around in the trunk with an Element fire extinguisher in the glove box.
Fuel
I’ve carried a fire extinguisher in each of my cars since 1985 when I stood and watched my sister’s 1981 Ford Mustang burn because we had no fire extinguisher when her fuel filter leaked onto the intake manifold while we were in the middle of nowhere.
I’ve used my extinguisher twice in that time putting out someone else’s car.
I’ve never needed them for my car, but luckily for those two people I was able to save their cars.
Halotron is expensive.
Element is my budget fire extinguisher option.
Going to put the new tires on at the weekend.
Should be a lot better than the crappy ones that were on there when I bought it.
New Michelin's
Rear tires
Front tires
Removed the wheel locks from my aftermarket wheels and replaced them w/cheap eBay lug nuts that fit; they cost less than $1/each.
Not worried about the cheap eBay sh*t. The heads of the 4 that I used didn't shear off when I torqued the lug nuts to spec. So, they apparently are good enough to do the job.
Have 16 more if any of them break and have 4 other lugs on each wheel that should keep each wheel on; at least they have so far.
Never leave my car anywhere where I'd need to worry about anyone stealing my wheels -- it was such a PITA finding a lock for them -- and don't want to worry about my Indy or anyone else f*cking up the locks and keys w/an air gun.
So, good riddance, IMO!
I think I�m gonna also need front repainted and roof tracks replaced. Paint is coming off them and shows white plastic.. did you have the same thing?
how much approximately does it cost to re-paint the front? Did you put any protection on it after?
I�ve been looking at this switch (Picture1) hanging loose for few months inside theMY04 C4S 39,5K on the clock. It appears I need to get behind the cover and YoutubeU info showed some screws behind those bug eyes so out they came. Picture two makes me pause....What�s wrong with this picture?
1. bulb looking lens in one
2. board looking surface in the other
4. maybe a space saving design from Toyota(oops...secrets out...it�s German plastic tho)
a little history search to see if this had been off for any reason before me
So fellow enthusiasts if anyone recognizes the abnormality please respond?
Turtle head
back view...👅
and take a look...
My roof track issue was the little covers kept coming off (2 per side). The plastic clip underneath of each was broken. No painting was needed on the roof.
As for the cost of the front end repaint, I went the local body shop that the P dealer uses. Great local shop and cost was less than I expected (quoted it body shop style, with prices and hours per a standard rate). I can PM you the costs.
Yes, due to the Covid stuff, i had the extra time and had the expel ultimate film applied over all the repainted panels and headlamps. Looks amazing!
Yes that is infrared passenger compartment monitor system.
I think it’s missing an eye thus the “electronic board” is exposed and system probably doesn’t work. I imagine I could see if it goes off but there is a reason it’s incomplete. Paintwork or headliner/sunroof repair may have necessitated removal and parts could have been lost) and if not for the switch falling out I still would not have found this...bummer
I drove it to the tip of Point Loma and visited my grandparents.
Then I drove across the street and visited my parents.
Then I drove to a friend's house in La Jolla to do a drug deal. I found a NIB air filter element from my air cooled 911 days so I traded it to my air cooled buddy for some fresh limes off his tree. Okay, it wasn't a drug deal but the curbside exchange with the engine running made it seem so.
The key to a great Bloody Mary has always been fresh lime juice. The Greeks knew it, the Carthaginians knew it, now
you
know it.
Kid calls and say's he think he has a coolant leaks on his 2002 C2, I ask him if it has any color to it, he couldn't tell, he lives in San Francisco and rarely uses A/C but did day before, told him could be A/C condensation drain and to be sure, drive it on up home to Sacramento and we can check it out on the lift and you can eat Mom cooking LOL, he came up and sure it was nothing but drainage..... then I was listening to the engine it didn't sound right, so we pulled the air cleaner housing and fired it up, didn't have to look far, water pump pulley is wobbling, so big order to Warehouse 33, except for the L&N 160 thermostat, 33 wanted 90 dollars and L&N has them for 49. dollars on sale, time for motor mounts and few other things, I did tell him be careful with oil fill tube, it broke off in his hands anyway, going to replace the AOS feed hose fitting also with metal one, . guess he will be here for few days.
So decided to to a muffler hack and install back on the car.
Here is one of the Muffler's out ready for cutting and welding
I cut the seam and grinned it down flat.
Next I cut 2 holes once I had fabricated a piece of pipe that I had bought from Summit Racing. I should have made the exit holes a little bigger because once this was all finished and back on the car the noise was a little disappointing.
This is one side completed, with the pipe all welded in place
This is what the finished product looked like from the side
All in all it was a fun project, and the noise is definitely better especially above the 3500 rev range. I would have like more low end rumble but overall not to bad.
Whilst I had the muffler's off I changed all 4 wheels to Michelin PS4's. so a very busy Saturday morning. Saturday was fun going for a long drive where I could go into the higher rev range and hear the the tones of the exhaust and the better ride quality of the new tires.
My headlights are junk and in need of actual repair, half *** fixes not cutting it.
So... I half *** fixed them, again....The previous owner hacked the **** out of them installing some aftermarket buffoonery and despite back to stock, just not the same.
As a result, I am posting how I fixed my headlights, again. Won't be the last time.
But damn do I love her anyway.
If not for social distancing and no club meetings I would ask someone to pop the cover off there IPCM and see if both sides have the bulbs cover...any takers with a 2002-2005 MK2..possibly MK1 had it so 1999-2002
. Appreciate a look...bugging me.Thank you....
Got my DCSW wheel put in. Love it!
...and had UAOS installed. Still not sure how to tap the low coolant wire, so I still need to get a better idea on how from Skip. The photo of the separate pipe from AOS to front of engine (from UAOS Tips thread) was helpful, as well as the new-style bracket positioning pic.
Indie�s parking lot is dusty and so is engine bay now.
^Ha. Son needed part for his car so took him to the local LKQ junkyard. Did a rather spirited drive there. Hot day, AC on, fans running on high. Drove into dirt parking lot at the junkyard and oh my, the car looked like a hover craft landing. Fans running on high and the engine bay fan running. Kicked up a huge amount of dust. Took awhile to clean that up.
Didn't want to start a new thread
what do you guys think of automatic car washes ?
My car is covered in plant semen, this pollen season has been especially bad
Nope. Not my car. But that�s just me.
I use a pressure washer with a soap dispenser for low pressure coverage, use the lowest pressure water setting, use a leaf blower to dry, and then use microfiber towels to finish drying. Takes about 20 mins to wash the outside and another 15 mins to get the insides of all the outside parts (hood, engine cover, and door sills).
They're great...for our minivan.
My 996 gets the foam cannon if it is real dirty, followed by 3-bucket method.
Otherwise it gets an Obsessed Garage style rinse-less wash in the garage.
There is a PCA club member that takes his 100% eXpel covered GT3 through the car wash.
He said, "why not, it's not going to touch the paint."
Foam cannon as in:
Use a foam cannon attached to my pressure washer to apply the soap and let it soak.
Repeat as many times as necessary, then rinse.
Then if necessary, I'll continue with an Obsessed Garage 3-bucket method wash.
Then I use spray wax as a drying agent.
That wax, and the ceramic coating underneath, makes it easier to clean the next time.
If the car is not REAL dirty, I usually do a rinse-less wash Obsessed Garage style (Optimum No Rinse and LOTS and LOTS of microfiber cloths)
Obsessed Garage:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGR...HBdl2EnPphB9WA
Obsessed Garage Store:
https://www.obsessedgarage.com/colle...hampoos-washes
Love the NAD (& the vintage marantz). I always got such a full sound from my old NAD integrated and miss it. Had it repaired twice before my stereo guy finally said that the board was cooked and nla.
sounds like a good day. Cheers.
The key to a great Bloody Mary has always been fresh lime juice. The Greeks knew it, the Carthaginians knew it, now
you
know it.
[/QUOTE]
^ I'm a big fan of foam cannons, too. I have a Veloci foam cannon that works with an electric 1350 psi harbor freight model.
As I don't goof up the water / boat wash ratio in the resevoir, works perfectly
"make it snow!"
I have one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPKHFA6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPKHFA6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought it back in January 2018.
It works great, and the $17 price couldn't be beat.
In a desperate move this winter I took my TSX through a touchless car wash and picked the "Gentle Touch" option. Big mistake. As the machinery went back and forth over my car it left a rub mark/scratch from the passenger front fender all the way to the rear brake light. The 996 (or any other vehicle in my possession) will never see an automatic car wash.
Went for a fun twisty drive in the foothills after a week of not driving!
But...
The wife drive the whole way.
She got pissed after the fourth time I told her not to shift from 1 to 2 until at least 3300 RPM or so.
I cringed a couple times when she kept it in 3rd at around 2300 instead of downshifting...but kept quiet.
Told her not to even bother with 6th gear when we got on the freeway...
Car did great, but boy it is hard to be a passenger!
I looked for the part numbers and then ordered them. I thought the mounting points were welded to the body, but they are only held by a 8mm hex from the inside. The sealant gasket was painted and looked like a weld, I used a razor blade to cut around the mount and unbolted...way easier than I thought! Used some silicon gasket to reseal the new one and off to the races. The rest of the pieces were super simple to replace, just make sure everything is lined up when you go to snap them back together.
Shifts at 3300? I'd reconsider your shift points as we all know how much these motors don't like the lower RPM's under load...4K minimum is where I shift on a casual drive.
Does she know how much a rebuild cost?
So I tried the P21S Polishing Soap. I normally use Blue Magic, Meguiars Chrome Polish and Turtle Wax. The soap has a blown styrofoam applicator. The product has a very fine white grit. Instructions say lather and apply. So I followed the instructions. I tried the wet removal technique on one set of pipes and let product dry completely on the other side.
Do not recco rinsing the soap off wet! The spray will migrate the grit. The grit will find a way to get where you won�t see it until you are final wiping your car. More on that in a minute. If you let it dry first, removal is less mess, but is shockingly hard to remove completely. Final shine is fine and the soap seems to remove as much carbon residue as Bar Keeper�s. However, the �leftovers� are white streaks and residue in very hard places to get to. The soap will leave a mess on the floor.
Cautions:
1. Those bubbles will turn to fine white grit. In your pipes, under your bumper cover, crevices between the tubes. Nearly impossible to remove all of it.
2. If any grit remains, 99% probability you will pick some up during a final wipe and distribute it on the paint. Once the stuff gets on your paint, you must wait for it to completely dry. I could not rewash the area and get the particles off, even using foam spray and good sponge. The tiny bits may come up with a soft wipe after completely dry, but may not. I had to clay bar the stuff off of my paint and PPF.
3. Once the grit gets in your cloth, that cloth is done. I�m afraid to ever put it in a machine to clean for fear of cross-contamination.
4. The soap may work just great if your item is off the car, but the *** pain I went through with the tips on the car means I will still be using trusty old Blue Magic and Meg�s in the future.
I thought someone said that you can replace those by just pulling out the old one and snapping in the new one for the hinge lid. Don't have to remove the strip.
i don�t see how that part can be installed without removing the trim strip. There�s 4 snap points that attach to the trim strip and one needs to be able to apply pressure underneath the top of it to get it on correctly.
Replaced the underbody panel that I finished breaking when I took it off to replace some coolant lines a few weeks ago. I thought about repairing it, but with the break where it was, I figured it would just break again when installing or removing it. This one was kind of a pain to put in because I couldn't use the quick jack to lift the car because it blocked access to the front mounting points for it. Ended up having to use a floor jack and jack stands.
Installed RSS Semi Solid Engine Mounts. Raised the exhaust tips 3/4 in.
First impression: rear feels much more 'planted' especially on aggressive cornering.
Drove 825 miles and spent 11.5 hours driving round trip from NorCal to SoCal in my F250 to pickup a new to me set of OEM BBS Carerra wheels & tires for my 2002 C4 Cab.
Plan to install them tomorrow. Will post before and after pics later.
Update 6/7/2020:
Just installed the "new" 18" OEM BBS Carerra wheels that came w/Falken A
zenis RT615K's on them and took a short 5-10 mile drive on a very narrow, bumpy and twisty road that's just minutes from my house and I am THRILLED!
The handling of the car w/the heavy aftermarket 19" wheels w/oversized Nexen 3000's on them truly S*CKED! Very heavy front end handling and harsh ride made the car all but unsteerable on bumpy twisty roads. HATED them!!!
The "new" BBS Carerra wheels totally transform the handling of the car. The car is now much more nimble and very precise, just as I remember from driving other 996's w/OEM wheels, AND I can drive it FASTER and deeper into the turns than w/the "good looking" but big A$$ED and heavy aftermarket wheels!
I also like the look of the look of the BBS Carerra wheels better than the aftermarket wheels and the Falkens seem to handle well enough.
The Falkens are mainly a dry road tire and I only drive when it's sunny and road is dry. So, that's all good w/me. Would rather have a set of Michelin Pilots on them but beggars can't be choosy. They were the wheels that I really wanted and now I've got them. If when the Falkens ever wear out (unlikely given how much meat is still on them and how little I drive any of my sports cars), I'll swap them for Michelins but in the meantime the Falkens will do.
Only cost me $1200 for the entire set w/the tires and the US Government paid for it. Used my stimulus check $ to buy them so they were really FREE to me!
Well, not exactly free because I spent $171 on the center caps and $190 for diesel fuel. So, it $361 actually cost me $361 for the set of 4 wheels and tires, which is pretty much free. Anyway, I don't think that this kind of spending is what the Congress had in mind when it gave away all that $ but that's how I spent mine. LOL!!!
However, switching to the lighter wheels wheels did not help w/the poor breaking that I've noticed recently.
I was sitting on the fence about whether to just do the minimum (brake fluid flush and brake line swap for about $700) first or to do a complete brake job (rotors, pads, brake lines and flush for about $1800). The switch to lighter wheels convinced me that I need to bite the bullet and just do the whole thing together. More $ than I wanted to spend but the $ I saved on the wheels/tires makes up for the extra cost.
Think I'll also do the center console/ashtray delete in the process, which should complete the "upgrades" to my 996 for now.
PS: That's my black 2008 BMW 335i E90 that I also spent a lot of $ "fixing up." I drove to SoCal to get the M-wheels on the car too! Very happy w/how that car turn out and I'm liking the direction my 996 is now taking too.
How does it differ as far as vibration is concerned? I�m trying to understand how it mates with engine as there is difference in diameter on the engine side.
Bought a GoPro and got it mounted on the roll bar.
1st attempt yesterday ended with washed out exterior with the bright sun, darker interior.
Changed a setting a kid on youtube suggested and got much better quality.
Clip from my morning coffee run.
You Tube
Is the CEL-on due to the removed steeringwheel airbag?
I assume this was directed and my MOMO wheel install.
Yes I got a cel but working on the solution for the new resistor and horn button fix.
Many thanks, Jared!!!
Now I have to "join" Rennlist in order to sell those sh*tty a$$ed wheels/tires that I just took off the car, if anyone here would even consider buying them.
Probably better to try to dump them off "cheap" on Craigslist instead to people who don't know any better. LOL!!!
Went for a Sunday drive with the Mpls MN Porsche and Pancakes group. Put about 200 miles on. The weather was beautiful. There were 26 cars in attendance.
I made a skid pad out of an unused college parking lot. I'm trying to get a feel for what the car does at its cornering limits.
Basically I left it in 1st gear, turned the wheel about 3/4 of a turn and started going faster and faster, being careful not to take it to the limit when a light post was near the outside of my turn.
I should do this a few more times but now I know what it feels and sounds like when the back end is getting ready to come out on me.
I also let off the throttle and got a feel for what the trailing throttle oversteer is like. Someone told me that this car can swap ends on you if you let off the throttle in a corner. I didn't find that to be true though I was only going 20-30 MPH. The back end definitely came out but it got nowhere near to swapping ends.
I got the car 3 months ago and it's my first Porsche. I want to do a DE weekend this year but that probably won't be until ~October.
(Sorry, no pictures)
Next you have to find a lot that will let you do it in 3rd
My experience is that 996s don�t snap oversteer anywhere near what people talk about. I think this is a carry over from the old air cooled days. I�ve done it a few time at the track and unless you are really ham handed, it is very controllable.
"
How does it differ as far as vibration is concerned? I’m trying to understand how it mates with engine as there is difference in diameter on the engine side."
The diameter on the engine side is essentially the same, the RSS drop right in, same hardware can be used as well. If you look closely there is a ridge on the lower side of the mounting flange that is the same diameter as OEM.
I haven't noticed any significant changes in vibration
Replaced the original draped seat covers with a pair from lseat.com.
I also painted some of the center console to better pull together the different colors of gray in the interior.
Despite how it looks in the pictures below, outside in daylight in person it looks really good. The wrinklles are disappearing already and I'll give a full update in a few weeks.
Knocked out my first oil change on the 996 using an LN Engineering oil change bundle... now equipped with DT40, spin on filter adapter w/NAPA 1042 filter and FilterMag, and LN magnetic drain plug. Inspected the oil and filter for any debris, thankfully came up very clean (albeit only ~700 miles/6 months on each) but sent over a sample to SpeeDiagnostix for a UOA (never been so nervous for ANY type of test results!!
).
Also threw in some Driven Racing Fuel Defender and Booster for kicks. Topped off the occasion with hitting my first XX,996 interval while taking her out for a late night fill up/oil level check.
How was the install? I ordered some from lseats as well and I am considering trying to tackle the install on my own. I've also heard that after install, let them sit in the sun for sometime and they tighten up nicely. Thanks!
Looks good. I put the same wheel in mine as well but added the nrg hub and QR. Thinking of going with the momo mod08 to provide some added extension and dumping the QR as it doesn't really serve a purpose for me.
Haha. Maybe the stadium parking lot? I get the feeling they don't oversteer as much as the older ones too. They had a different suspension setup and I don't see anyone on the 996 forum talking about it. Still, I'd think it would happen quicker at 70 MPH than at 30.
Nice. How's the comfort and feel? I have RAID steering wheel, but I don't love the small size for long drives. I feel like I can never get in a comfortable arm position, though in general I like the thicker rim diameter compared to stock. I'm considering getting a suede/alcantara aftermarket steering wheels to replace it.
The feel is great. The momo mod 69 wheel has a round grip style vs the oval shape (in the hand) a momo mod 88 for example. The size of the wheel is 350mm so it's not too small compared to stock.
Installed the ashtray delete in my 2000 C4 Cab. The ashtray cover still worked but was balky and I don't smoke anyway. Got the replacement console and liner from Pelican Parts.
It was a more complicated installation than appeared at 1st glance. Good thing I have a set of torx sockets and a pair of extremely thin needle nose pliers. Could not have done the swap w/o them.
I also arranged today to return via eBay the 2 Fiat 500 rear brake rotors that I received in response to my order for two rear Brembo brake rotors for my car. How they could mix that up, I don't know but they did.
Not only that but they also sent me the incorrect front brake rotors for my car. Ordered the directional left/right fromt Brembo brake rotors but the sent me the newer PVT asymmetrical brake rotors instead. Was going to return the PVT rotors too but, even though it'll cost me a few more bucks, I think I'll just keep them because I don't want to go thru the hassle/delay of returning them and then still needing to wait for the refund AND order the others ones. The PVTs will work fine and I was thinking about buying them anyway.
First time I've ever had a problem getting the "wrong" item in an eBay transaction BUT I also have a problem w/a brake pad order w/another vendor that I placed at the same time too. Got the wrong front Akebono pads for my car; they sent me a set for a Boxster, not my 911. So, have to deal w/that as well.
OBTW, I "must" add that Porsche makes some really "fussy" cars. I turned on the car to make sure that the switches I swapped into the new ashtray delete console worked correctly and, in order to test the rear windows, I had to raise the roof to do that but when I tried to do that the roof indicator light flashed but NOTHING else happened.
WTF!!!????
Opened up the manual and it said that the parking brake had to be fully engaged for the roof to operate. I had loosened the parking brake to make access to the center console easier. Just fully engaged the brake and the roof worked.
This car is going to drive me crazy. LOL!!!
I bought a used smarttop module for our cab and read one of its features was bypassing the need of the ebrake to be engaged. Up until that point I was not aware that was required to operate the top.
Does anyone know the difference between the 99-03 and 04-04 exhaust systems ?
Found a local guy selling a Billy Boat from an 04 for $500 and was wondering what changed in order for it to be different than my 99.
Thanks
I am sure you will enjoy the SmartTop module upgrade and all Cabs should have that option from the factory for older cars like ours. That was one of my 1st upgrade and loved it since. Actually I got that with a GB right here on RL, wow long time ago :-) There are many cool features with this module, like Open/Close top while driving slowly or you can Open/Close the 2 small rear windows w. top down or up. Cheers,
Hello good sir. Purchased from Ruf (Germany, not the Weissach folks in Canada) for $1200 shipped. Paint at a good shop shooting all 4 pieces for $650. Stripes from Renndecal for $100. Assembly of new, take off of old, mounting, drilling, etc; solo, in my garage took 4 leisurely hours. Striping the back from window down took 2.5 hours.
My wife saw the tacos on ttt123 and your cars resulting in a convo about taco vs aero vs 996/997 GT3 vs Ruf wing shapes. Love that woman!
There is a DIY "poor man's version" according to Pelican :
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/72-BODY-SmartTop_Rolling_Override/72-BODY-SmartTop_Rolling_Override.htm
https://youtu.be/eoI6o1TQE3c
Replaced the hood strut. For my vehicles, seems like the year of the strut. I had to replace liftgate struts last month on other vehicle and hood struts on a third vehicle earlier this year.
Buttoned up the following installs on my 99 c2 today;
new coolant tank
new low temp thermostat
new water pump
new oil filler tube
Water pump = no fun. Rewarding nonetheless.
Moto344...
I guess the water pump took a few hours. Hard to say exactly since I was working on the other items too. On the 99, one of the bolts is hard to get off and reinstall. Half the time is spent figuring out which combination of swivels and extensions to use.
it�s certainly a DIY if you have the tools and the 101 projects book as a guide. I�m no mechanic BTW.
Lead 16 cars through the famous "twisted sisters" run through the Texas Hill Country. We were one group of three, 48 cars total. Had a great time, covered 250 miles! Got LOTS of bugs and grime all over the car, now I get to wash it!
Mine is front row on the left...
Those instructions are for 986 not 996. This is what you need to do for a 996
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...-while-moving/
I did it about 10 years ago and still think it was a great mod.
Mea culpa and Thank you
wyovino
for posting the DIY for 996. Did you do also the e-brake modification by grounding the
Brown
/
Yellow
or just cut the
GREY
/
PINK
wire?
...and i only got one side done. It took a while to get the muffler off, but there was no way i was going to try without doing it. I have a clanking noise on the right side. With a stethoscope it doesnt sound any different anywhere on the engine (well, the left side is quiter). Both my son and i were sure it was external, so i ran it without the serpentine belt, no difference. The exhaust seemed pretty solid everywhere, and the noise was in time with the engine so its really worrisome.
then i went to take the three nuts of the muffler bracket, and there was only one. The other two studs were sheared off. Thats a definite possible source of the noise.. I got stainless bolts and nuts to replace the two. Unfortunately i didnt quite get it back together today because, well, i can only think of one job more frustrating than putting the number four coil back and connecting it.that was putting a speed sensor on a 944 bell housing. You guys that do plugs without removing the muffler are superstars. It took forever to get it plugged back in. So i have to wait until morning to get the muffler back in and cross my fingers that it was the clanging. I also noticed the linkage for the PSE was stuck and wondered if that would let the valve flap back and forth. I think the vaccuum line was connected and just pulled off, because the inlet was clean.
I only cut the Speed sensor (Grey/Pink) wire. I like the fact the you need to pull the e-brake up one notch in order to engage the top. It prevents accidentally opening it when you shouldn't.
Changing the plugs and tubes took me about 12 hours the first time and less than two the second time. I don't know how people do it without removing the mufflers. Hopefully the noise is muffler related and you get that straightened out. Good luck. One tip - tug on the coil wires before you button it up. Sometimes they look like they are attached but aren't clicked in. Ask me how I know.
I cut the pink and grey wire this morning, works like a charm allowing to open and close the soft top while driving. Just need keep an eye on the speedometer to insure the speed is lower than 25 MPH.
For sure the fancy Top adapter has more features but free is good...Smile
Yesterday I went for a loop on one of my go to local roads, was short on time and looking for a reset. Took the opportunity to make another video where I actually tried some editing, I've got a long way to go to make anything entertaining but I would like to learn and gives a great excuse to spend time with the car. I have a couple track days lined up next month, hopefully I'll get some good material out of them.
You Tube
Today in preparation for the track days and in reward of the cars excellent behavior I cleaned out the rads and did some other housekeeping while I had the bumper off. Lot of **** caught up in there should help put the car in a better place for hot July track work.
I think your videos are pretty good. I'm curious though, what are you using for a mount? I have a $50.00 GoPro wannabe that I use with a suction mount in the 996. It works okay but seems to always fall off the window after a certain amount of heat and sun. I'm just wondering if there are any better options out there. Maybe just a better quality suction cup mount than came with the $50 GoPro wannabe?
If you plan on leaving the mount in place, just put some black RTV silicon on the suction cup before install.
I had this problem with my Garmin I windshield mounted up by the rear view mirror and hard wired in to the roof console. It's been on now for years and hanging on tight. With just the suction cup it would last for a few days or a week or two, with the added RTV I think it will be there until i "forcefully " remove it..lol
Thanks.
Mount is a GoPro bar mount on the roll bar. Very solid. I messed around with some suction cup mounts previously and found this option preferable.
I decided to do that mod after getting stuck in slow moving construction traffic with the top open. There was nowhere to pull over to stop and it started raining. Prior to that I didn't see the need.
Just ordered the "correct" parts for the complete brake job that I had planned to do by the end of the month, which looks like it will be delayed until early July because the parts that I ordered from a couple of eBay had to be returned because they were the wrong parts.
Actually kept 2 of the wrong parts (the front brake rotors) that I received because they fit the car and were parts that I was considering buying anyway and it was too much trouble to return them too. Have to pay for the return of the "wrong" brake pad because they did not offer "free returns." That'll teach me! Never ordering anything w/o "free returns" on eBay again.
WHAT A CLUSTER F*CK!
Ordered all of the parts I still needed from AMZN coming from a variety of vendors including AMZN. Hoping I'll have better luck w/these orders. The parts that I already have and still have yet to receive are:
2 - Brembo 09.C880.11 PVT Front Brake Rotors
2 - Brembo 09.6665.11 PVT Rear Brake Rotors
1 set - Akebono EUR 776 Ceramic Front Brake Pads
1 set - Akebono EUR 738 Ceramic Rear Brake Pads
4 - OEM replacement brake pad sensors
4 - StopTech stainless steel brake lines
Brakes should be in GREAT shape as soon as I get all of the right parts in hand and have them installed by my Indy. Time will tell . . .
Skip, I won't rule it out but it would be as a last resort. I think my use of in-car video has peaked and I can't see going with a permanent mount scenario.
I guess I'm spoiled by this camera mount a friend of mine made for me. It's designed to fit the headrest rods of earlier BMWs specifically.
And obviously because of the design, you don't have to worry about heat or bumps making it fall off.
You Tube
I don't have a roll bar but I did MacGyver a sailboat mount so maybe I'll take a look to see if I can do something with the 996.
Unless PayPal/Ebay policy has changed, the seller can't charge you shipping to return parts that didn't match the Ebay listing. I ran into the same situation about six years ago and ended up filing a dispute and got a decision in my favor in less than 24 hours.
Brake parts, You should have order everything from RMEuropean or other Rennlist vendor,, Good prices, Possible discount, All from one shop, 3-4 day delivery. no shipping charges, not much hassle. Amazon vendors can be crap shoot
That's what I thought too but I was presented only w/the option to use the shipping label that they provided that I have to pay for OR use another method of shipping that I prefer. I didn't see anyway to "dispute" the return shipping charge in the information provided but I may try to call eBay customer service to speak with a "real person" about it tomorrow.
The USPS label they want me to pay for will cost $44.38! The cost of shipping via UPS will be $16 less. If I can't reach someone in eBay who can resolve this issue for me, I'll just send it back via UPS and am going to be much careful about ordering anything in the future unless "free return shipping" is specified in the listing. Lesson learned.
The parts I wanted/needed (listed above) are/were very specific and in my search of the Net I did not find them all in one place except on AMZN. Call me lazy but the prices were reasonable and returns thru AMZN have always been easy/free to me.
So, that was good enough for me. Also, except for this situation, I've had very good experience w/eBay because I'm pretty careful about making sure I've double checked the listing for fitment but still didn't get the right parts from these lousy vendors in this case. Obviously, I'm not going to buy anything from them again.
Also just out of curiosity, I searched RMEuropean for the rotors and pads I needed and they did not stock them. Nor did many other larger parts vendors, like Pelican Parts, Auto Anything or Summit when I looked earlier.
Anyway, there orders have already been placed. So, AMZN is it for now. We'll see if they come through for me or not.
Not "special" - just not widely available, at least not for my car -- 2000 C4 Cab.
I looked around online for vendors that sold them and didn't find the parts that I needed in 1 place except on eBay and AMZN. Don't like ordering a lot of things separately from different vendors if that's unnecessary. I have lot of experience buying things online for my cars and this is the 1st time I've experience such a major f*ck up w/any orders on eBay or elsewhere.
What I originally ordered (or thought that I was ordering) on eBay were these rotors/pads:
1 - Brembo 09.C094.11 Front Left Directional Brake Rotor
1- Brembo 09.C095.11 Front Right Directional Brake Rotor
2 - Brembo 09.6665.11 PVT Asymmetric Rear Brake Rotors
1 set - Akebono EUR 776 Ceramic Front Brake Pads
1 set - Akebono EUR 738 Ceramic Rear Brake Pads
What I got out of all of the items that I ordered above were only the EUR738 brake pads.
Instead of the directional front rotors that I ordered, I got a pair of Brembo 09.C880.11 PVT Asymmetric front rotors, which I decided to keep because they fit my car and because it was just too much of a hassle to return them and then reorder the other ones.. So, I only returned the wrong rear rotors that I got which were for a Fiat 500!
As far as the pads are concerned, I bought a package that was supposed to include a complete set of front/rear Akebono ceramic brake pads plus aftermarket sensors but the front pads I received were EUR917s that only fit a 2000 Boxster.
The brake pad vendor failed to respond to any emails about this problem and my request for an exchange. So, I had to return the entire brake pad pkg too but was being asked to pay for the cost of return shipping.
Just spoke w/a real person at eBay and apparently the reason I was being asked to pay for return shipping was because I checked the wrong box for the "reason for return." I checked "did not fit" instead of "defective or did not match the item description" but I did not see those options when placing my return request.
Long story short, the eBay rep agreed to reclassify the return as a "wrong item" and will be sending me a FREE return shipping label and I have already ordered all of the other parts that I need/want thru AMZN.
So, it should all turn out fine in the end. It's just taking longer due to the f*ck up w/the eBay orders.
I've found that RockAuto is my best source for rotors (I actually prefer Pagid) and Akebono pads.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...hub,rotor,1896
I tried Brembo pads F&R and was not impressed. (I threw them out after less that 6 months)
Hopefully their rotors are better.
Whenever I have any concerns about parts, I research the Pelican Parts articles, or I call them up and explain the problem. They have never steered me wrong.
These 911-specific sites have expertise that�s worth the added cost, sometimes added delay versus Amazon or others.
According to a fitment check Akebono's part reference page, yes it fits a 2003 C2 (as well as a 2000 Boxster) but does NOT fit my 2000 C4 Cab. See:
https://partcat.com/akebono
BTW, after checking the pics of the EUR917 with what I got, I'm not even sure the pads I received are EUR917s because they don't look anything like the pics, even though the box they came in is marked EUR917.
I know you can't go by just the pics but that's even more messed up if the "right" pads aren't in the box!!!!
It wasn't hard reaching a person at eBay but I had to wade my way thru their "help" page by saying that nothing in the help pages "helped" and then they offer to contact you via online chat or a phone call from them.
I did the latter and they called back w/in 5 mins. Pretty good, IMO.
I've got a 2000 C4 Cab.
According to Akebono itself based on the product search that I did on their site (see link above), only the EUR776 fits the 2000 911 (they do not discriminate between C2 or C4) in front. The EUR738 is designated for the rear.
Not yet but according to AMZN they have already shipped. Due to receive them sometime next week. Will post a pic if/when I get them.
The top pad in this pic is a Akebono EUR776 that I installed a few weeks ago. The difference between the 776 and the 917 is that the 917 has the ears with the round weights on them. They both fit though.
It's my understanding that the weights are to reduce vibration and squealing. The weights are more common on street pads and not so much on performance pads. So far I haven't noticed any difference between the old weighted Textars and the unweighted Akebonos.
The upper one is what the EUR776 looks like in pics I've seen.
I've actually gotten conflicting info on whether my 2000 C4 Cab will take the EUR917 or EUR776 up front. Tire Rack says the EUR917 will fit but AMZN and Akebono says only the EUR776 will fit.
So, I'm just going w/what Akebono specifies.
I really like the contrast of the black center console on beige interior. Considering doing this to mine, however it's full Savannah beige. Question is, would this affect a purist down the road if I planned to sell? It will remain relatively low mileage as it doesn't see the road very often.
That's actually perfect, thank you for sharing that! I did a quick google search and for some reason that never popped up, just a bunch of used black consoles that had wear.
I've upgraded the exhaust, radio, and a few other components but kept all the OEM that will of course be sold with the car when / if that time ever comes.
When I was researching, I would say about 75% of suppliers list the 917 pads and 25% the 776. I went with the 776 pads because of the reduced unsprung weight.
Despite taking all precautions and due diligence with maintenance, I had a catastrophic radio **** failure. Whether you call it **** Leprosy, the Black Gooey Death, or Schwetty *****, it's embarrassing and nasty. I 3D printed some replacements and now my car can run faster and jump higher.
Had it cut off on me while at a stop light. Light turned green and it suddenly died. I'm not even sure if I had even put it in 1st gear yet maybe just pressed the clutch and then all of the sudden it cut off. Everything looked fine on my dash, battery was reading 14v, Idle was just under 800rpm, coolant temp was right around 180, oil pressure was pegged at 1. Tried to crank it a few times with no luck and then waited 2 maybe 3 minutes and boom started right up. I know its not the battery bc I just put in an AGM interstate battery last night. Could this have anything to do with the ignition switch?
Start a new thread with your issue. You'll get more answers. I would start with the last thing you did - the battery. Make sure the connections are tight.
Same here, so I just bought OEM replacement ***** (they came in sealed Porsche branded plastic bags) 4 months ago for a ridiculous price ($41.67 including tax &"free" shipping) off of eBay.
"..Hi, my name is Eddie, and I too spent stupid money on a pair of OEM replacement *****. Suncoast got my money..."
In retrospect, I should have tried the alcohol bath thing, too... Like Woodman71 did. I've used that method in the past, but had mixed success (and the failures were sometimes catastrophic as the alcohol would deteriorate the plastic finish under the coating.) But, this could have been a good last ditch "Let's find out before spending $17.50/****" effort.
But here we are...
Added an old school touch to my console.It had been painted in silver Plastidip but was looking kind of tired. I really like this fabric and may add some more accents. Not sure where.
Just pressure tested the engine in my 2000 C4 Cab w/the new oil cap adapter and manometer that I recently purchased/received from @TexSquirrel and AMZN (respectively) and got a reading of between 4.6-4.7
Desired reading is between 4-7 InH20, So, no need to worry about replacing the AOS w/the UAOS now.
------------------------------------------
Also just received the last of the parts that I need to do the complete brake job on my car and will be making an appt w/my Indy in a couple of days to get the job done.
Thanks, I really like it and think that it actually looks better in person. I've been thinking about what to do with the console for a long time. I may do the carpeted part of the door panels. They're a bit past their prime too.
Happy Father’s Day! Just wanted to share a few recent pictures....
Just got the 996.2 Cab back from a full rear suspension refresh (mono ball upper arms, EPS thrust arms, H&R springs, Bilstein shocks, Urethane bushings, Rr toe arms). Very happy with the handling and ride height (a little lower would have been ok). Hope everyone is staying healthy!
Fresh SRF Fluid as pat of prep for track mid next month. Doing little work each weekend.
Then a nice drive - with the exception of my dome light panel breaking and driving me nutso. Took a look when I got home and that little SOB had been super glued back into place at least once.
Time for a wash.
You Tube
Family decided they could survive without me for a while (being father's day).
I took a 121mile loop drive out through the twisty forested hills. It was great! Even when the rain hit with 40 miles to go. But after a year of ownership, that was actually my first drive in a real downpour! It handled great, but did slow me down a bit.
Funny. I just replaced my dome light yesterday. Turned out to be more "complicated" than I thought. Someone upgraded all the bulbs to nice, bright LEDs before I got it but the different LEDs were flickering randomly. Got a Sylvania LED bulb from Pelican & installed it about a week ago but it didn't work. So I figured the one that was in there was special. Did a bunch of searching here, googling, checked the voltage coming out of the contacts, etc.
Finally, I read the box the new bulb came in. It turns out polarity is important in these things. I just needed to flip it 180�. Doh! RTFM!
Hello and sure, I will do my best. My reference point is my own �99 C2 Coupe which had really poor handling and ride comfort dynamics when I first bought it. Now with all the track modifications , the handling is spot on, but the ride comfort is not great for daily use (ok for me though
).
For my 2002 C2 Cab
*Before Information: 90000 miles when I bought it, completely original suspension, just had new tires put on.
*Overall handling good, not sloppy at low to medium speeds. At lower speeds, the best I can explain is it had a slower or delay feeling in the steering (slightly). At higher speeds, a little uncomfortable when changing lanes (my �99 had the same issue). Very non-linear steering at higher speeds is the best way I can describe it.
*Ride comfort was ok, nothing special to remember. The 2nd order ride was not good (the movement after hitting a bump), the car did not recover very well.
*After Information: Front Modifications (B6 shocks, H&R springs, Monoball Thrust Arm, Powerflex LCA bushing). Rr modifications already posted.
*Handling much improved, very linear at every speed. Can really feel the rear end of the car keeping up with the intended line. High speeds are the biggest improvement (freeway lane changes are controlled and feel like they should be, no drama). The toe control links are a must if you make any rear suspension changes.
*Ride Comfort is better in every way. Absolutely no unusual movement or harsh tone to any reasonable bump. The B6 shocks are a sweet spot for me. I also had the B8s on my �99 and loved them as well.
Note: Based on my suspension for my �99, the biggest difference in supreme handling and worse ride comfort is the Monoball Upper Mounts. ONLY add this for track cars or if you like harsh ride.
Hope that helps, just my experience and my preferred taste for R&H.
I'm playing around with side stripe ideas. The plan here was to make the stripe a subtle variation of the paint color. I bought the vinyl without seeing it in person. The first time I really saw the color was after it was already on the car. It didn't come out how I pictured it but I'm not mad at it. The wheels are temporary. Most of the time it will have dark grey glossy wheels with polished lips. Let me know what you think. All opinions welcome.
I want to lower my car an inch. Is it really necessary to have all the adjustable links/toe arms. I have the Feal coil overs but the rest of the control arms are stock.
The car looks good either way. Typically when an accent color is added, such as your side stripe, you would add that same accent color to some other areas of the car to bring to all together. Things like leather stitching, or seatbelt color, brake caliper color - anything that is subtle but consistent.
Also, the wheels are pretty sweet. I�m talking about the design and not necessarily the color match. Gold or Bronze or whatever that color is has started to make a come back. It was more common in all-white or all-black cars from the 80�s. I have a triple black 996 with Silver turbo twist wheels and have considered going darker like gold or black.
The more I look at it, the less ok I am with how blue the stripes turned out. I am wondering now if a matte clear vinyl would achieve the look I am after. I want the stripe there but I really don't want it to stand out very much.
The wheels are plastidipped "vintage gold". They are track wheels but I am running them until my street wheels are finished being refurbished. I am really pleased with how the plastidip turned out though
I think a shade of grey either slightly darker or slightly lighter than your car color would give it a more subtle touch. But I think what you have looks nice.
I don't necessarily want it to "match" though. I feel like that's a bit too common maybe. I am taking some inspiration from Singer. Maybe I just need to try a different silver/grey
Thank You !
285/35 and 225/40 PS4S
Pic makes it look like I may need a little more front spacer.
Front spacer is 12MM and rear is 15MM. The rear is perfect for me, I think the front with a 15MM or a 235 tire would be the ticket.
Added Ben's short shifter kit and am happy with the results. Wasn't too hard to install after I found all the trim fasteners.
I also tried the muffler delete but lasted about 45 mins before I took it off. I like it loud but it's not a pleasant loud to my ears.
Finally, added a few stickers because why not
Thanks for the detailed response!
I have FEAL coilovers, GT3 rear LCAs, and Tarrett adjustable rear toe arms. Handles really well with the Michelin PS4s. I�m looking at what to do next. Debating between replacing tired suspension arms with new stock arms with rubber bushings or upgraded ones with polyurethane or heim joints.
In theory, just new stock style arms and bushings should be an improvement. I�d like to go the upgrade route, but I definitely don�t want to make it crash around on road bumps.
I went with just stock control arms, except for the control arm links which I went with polyurethane.
Since mine is a daily driver, I'm glad I went with mostly stock bushings.
I think I get a little more NHV with the poly control arm links, but its not too bad.
It is definitely a balancing act DD - Track want-to-be.
I also went with stock engine mounts.
I definitely get more noise inside now due to the rollbar.
It transfers chassis noise inside.
I can live with that, but if you want a nice quiet ride, go with all rubber bushings/mounts and no rollbar.
If my 996 wasn't my daily driver, I'd really like the Deamonspeed upper control arms.
The price is excellent!
But I'm afraid the ride would be a bit too harsh for me now.
I bet it handles like you're on rails now.
Bulb went out on the odometer. Really don't feel like removing the cluster and taking it apart. Does anyone know if a hypnotist can do the watch swing thing and tell the car to make the bulb light up again?
Many years ago I worked for an airline and was in the cockpit of a 747 when the engineer was going through the pre-flight checklist. He hit a switch and nothing happened. He banged the dash and a light came on. Check.
You know, that's the method most good mechanical engineers use to fix electrical problems. If it doesn't come around the first time -hit it again - only harder.
My opinion is, that it will suck better.
Thanks, it is my daily and i think the ride is better than before (I really think the shocks have more to do with the ride). For me switching from worn 18 year old shocks to Bilstien B6s was a night and day improvement. In my experience, the only monoball part that hurts ride comfort is the top strut mount. I replaced those with fresh OEM mounts. And yes, it handles much better too!
I had a few hours after work yesterday to put in some time on some nagging issues that had been bothering me:
- Diagnosed and at least mostly fixed an issue where the cabrio top headliner would get caught in the microswitch and prevent the top from closing
- Fixed an issue where the top wouldn't fully seat into the black side trim
- Removed/reset my rear center console as when I had removed it before it was put back SLIGHTLY too far forward
- Replaced the bezel around my radio head unit
- De-foamed my drivers side HVAC vent
- Full detail (the most fun part)
Love the wood trim, ^^^ I know it's a pain when it cracks, but looks classy w Savanna Beige
I replace the 3 pieces in mine w Silver strips, and it "woke up" the look in my cockpit
Pics? I've been considering something like this. I have a new custom steering wheel coming in and I configured it with the bottom flat section being a matte silver.
That looks good but I just looked them up on Suncoast and just for those 3 litle strips of aluminum it's $260. Man I miss being able to find stuff in a junkyard.
I bought Porsche touch up paint today ($24.74) so that my paint correction guy can fill some rock chips, restore my paint, put a ceramic coating on the whole car (plus wheels), and clean and oil the leather interior ($1650).
Can�t wait! Starts tomorrow morning; 4 days duration.
Love to hear about these cars getting the love they deserve. I was happy to get the Fr clip painted on my 99 and expel wrapped. A complete transformation🤘
Even if it only sucks twice as much, I'll be happy.
Just for future reference, I didn't want to spend the money for
official
Porsche touch-up paint for an appliance car like the Cayenne so I bought from
http://AutomotiveTouchUp.com
for about $15.00.
I got a little over zealous removing a clear bra that had been left on waaay too long by the PO and needed to cover up a couple of spots where I managed to remove the clear and color coats down to the primer. I was pleasantly surprised with the color match. There was a half dollar size spot between the headlight and side marker that is very hard to see unless you look very closely.
Kudos for Automotive Touchup Stuff, had a bicyclist run into my side and scraped the front fender, bought primer , base coat "Seal Grey" and clear from them in Spray cans. plastic cover the whole car except damage area and sanded down the damage, prepped it all and painted and clear coat it, wet sanded and polished it, looks great even order more of everything for future use.
After waffling back and forth for months on buying a $260 GT3 cup front lip to replace the broken aerokit one for my 996 Aerokit front bumper, I decided to buy one.
I checked the price at Suncoast...and they’re sold out.
The cheapest I could find in stock was over $500.
But, I found out that FVD has one for under $200.
It is on its way and should be delivered tomorrow.
I’m excited!
The complete brake job that I have been planning for weeks was finally done yesterday -- Brembo rotors, Akebono pads, Stop-tech S/S brake lines, no-name brake pad sensors and, of course, all new brake fluid.
No doubt the brake job was needed because the rotors were severely worn, the pads were nearly down to zero and the rubber brake lines felt brittle. Sorry didn't take pics of them. The only problem is that the "soft brake pedal" that got me thinking about doing the brake job is still there.
So, looks like the only other thing that may be the cause (and hopefully fix for) the soft pedal is replacing the master brake cylinder w/a new one which I've already scheduled.
Took one wheel off just to look at the work done and, of course, noticed that the caliper bodies are looking a little shabby.
NRVPZn6l.jpg
Would love to have a set of red calipers but don't have the desire/skill to remove and paint the calipers myself. So, I'll keep a look out for a used set of caliper bodies that I can have painted or power coated and swapped in by my Indy after adding new decals to finish them off.
------------------------------------------------
Just a couple of technical points that my Indy wrote about extensively in the work order to cover his a$$ that I wanted other people's opinions about
:
1) The front brake pads were installed w/o using the existing backing plates because they would not fit the pads. He reinstalled the anti-vibration parts on the front pads because he said it was necessary to properly install them. The Indy said that the front brake pads could move around when brake pressure is applied w/o the backing plates on them.
What are the risks/problems (if any) of not having the backing plates installed w/the front brakes?
2) The Stop Tech s/s brake lines I purchased do not have what the Indy called (locating or locking tabs) as is w/the case w/OE or OEM the Indy says he normally uses.
Should I be worried about the brake lines loosening over time because they do not have these tabs?
3) I told the Indy NOT to reinstall the anti-vibration and squeal weights on the rear pads.
Any risk (other than brake squeal) from not reinstalling these things w/the rear pads?
Any other advise/info on these matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
You're missing one of the set screws on the rotor. Not that it really matters because the wheel bolts hold everything together. Just don't know why that little detail is missing though.
As for the other stuff, I think you will be okay. If the brakes start squealing, you can easily correct it...later.
The brake fluid was entirely changed and re-bled with the new rotors, pads and lines. Don't know if it was done "properly" but it was done.
Update
: After reviewing various web references about soft brake pedal feel caused by "bad" master brake cylinders, I'm pretty use the master cylinder is the problem. I can pump the brakes to get a hard brake feel again but when I continue to press, the pedal drops which every reference says is the likely cause of a bad master brake cylinder. Will find out if that's the case or not in a few days when a new master brake cylinder is installed in my car.
Thanks, just noticed that too. The new ones were in the box. So, I'll have to ask the Indy about that too.
Update
: Just pulled and inspected the rotors on the other 3 wheels. The rear rotors both have 2 set screws in them and both front rotors only have one. Only 1 set screw can be used w/the front rotors because only 1 hole in the rotor lines up w/the holes in the front hubs. The Indy says that there was only 1 screw in the front rotors taken off of the car too. Weird but for what ever reason, that's just the way it is on my car.
Not "too worried" about the other stuff but the Indy mgr made such a big deal about detailing what "wasn't done or there", it got me worried. He's a new mgr and it's the 1st time I've dealt w/him. Dealt w/the previous mgr for over 5 years. Not sure I like this one. Talked sh*t about the Akebono pads and tried to blame it for the soft pedal I still felt after the brake job was done. I've run Akebonos on my BMW for 3 years and they are definitely NOT the problem.
The Akebonos on my BMW stop on a dime and don't shed dust or squeal which is why I bought them for my 911 as well.
The location of my Indy shop is convenient but I'm thinking I'm going to look aroundfor another one to service my 911, 335i and ML350. I've been to Kahler's in Dublin but they chg almost as much as a stealership and their really far away. Would prefer suggestions in the Walnut Creek/Concord area if anyone has some.
Those were installed on mine before I bought it and I love them! It makes it look a sh*tload better! It has the factory litronic headlights and a previous owner did the side markers, tail lights and put brighter LEDs on the interior. It really did a great job of modernizing it.
Today was a good day - Drove 3 HRS to CT to pick this up. Really happy, I have been wanting this seat forever. It will take the drivers side and the Sparco Evo II will shift to the passenger. It's big enough if you can't fit, you're not riding. Also, will really help the weight savings progress by getting the stock passenger out. Should be 20+ LBS.
Yesterday my LN Deep Sump and skid plate came in
And finally, I got a bunch of stuff on order:
BK setup for both passenger (stock sliders) and driver (fixed mount)
Hardware for getting harnesses mounted up
2 Schroth 6 points (black will replace my currently blue drivers setup)
Couple cases of XP9 and DT 40 oil
Bunch of 1042 oil filters
Rennline PC680 tray, battery and kill switch. Also, going to pull a bunch of weight out.
I think even with the added weight of additional oil capacity and deep sump, skid plate setup with the offset of super light battery and swapping the passenger seat will get the car officially into the 29XX LB range.
I'll have some videos of impression / install on some parts and reviews when everything arrives.
Since the factory aerokit lip spoiler came loose on my car and got chewed up, I decided I wasn�t going to use plastic plugs to hold it on.
I decided to bolt it on.
I used M8x20mm button head socket bolts, 3/8� fender washers, and nylon lock nuts.
The Porsche GT3 cup spoiler lip fit perfectly.
It is flexible like rubber.
Bottom of bumper with Porsche GT3 Cup Spoiler Lip bolted on.
It�s not going to fall off now!
Bumper reinstalled.
Just put complete set of rotors (Pagid) and pads (Akebono) on both of my 996's and pedal feels the same as with the Textar pads that I replaced. I have not replaced the fluid...that's a future project.
I used new bolts, screws and retaining hardware as well.
BTW...the screw holes on the hub (and rotor) are offset. If you don't put them on with the right orientation only one screw will fit. Are they not lining up because of the brembo rotors or do they not know about the offset?
Did the rear brakes on my C4S using the Akebono pads from FCP Euro and Fremax rotors from Autohaus AZ. Bled the brakes front and rear. Also adjusted the hand brake while I was in there.
Then proceeded to go for a drive with the local Porsche group. Pedal feels solid and no noise. We'll see how they dust soon.
Picked up my car today. It had paint correction, touch ups, interior leather clean and protection, rubber restoration of the grille wall (under the spoiler), and finally, ceramic coating on the car, glass, and wheels.
Looks much better
Before
Before (lots of swirl marks)
After
After
Thanks all!
Yeah, the ceramic coating should help keep the black more swirl free than regular paint correction, because most of the nasty stuff (bugs, rubber bits, dirt, water), just comes off with a pressure washer, so there�s no towel to scratch it.
There is a downside, though: every single rock chip and little ding shows up on the paint, because everywhere else, it�s a perfect mirror. However, from a distance of 5� or more, looks great.
Also, if you notice, my driver side headlight looks more yellow than the passenger side. How can I fix that?
This detailer has worked on all kinds of cars. He says that Porsche uses soft paint, so he loves correcting it. Black is his favorite because when done perfectly, looks like a mirror. And you know, it�s one of the hardest to maintain.
I have had the car almost a year now. Yesterday I cleaned the barrels of the wheels. I have never cleaned wheel barrels before. They are not perfect, but way nicer than they were.
My brother told me, if the barrels aren�t clean, the wheels aren�t clean. I�m a little sore today....Maybe I won�t be barrel shamed now.
I made a few backgrounds from pictures I took of various surfaces around my 40AE... The current one is made to give the head unit a seamless appearance with the rest of the dash!
Shared them in the following post:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...be-others.html
Did the water pump and thermostat today after work. Was a fairly big job for me because I'm still relatively amateur in terms of mechanical skills.
Yesterday installed my Fister mufflers and Rennline motor mounts. Only got out for a short drive tonight while burping the cooling system, but I look forward to really feeling out the differences here.
I also received my Tarett front camber plates, and should be getting my H&R coilovers on Thursday. Happy with how my project is shaping up!
I had a couple inches of this product left over from I don�t know how many years ago:
It did a pretty good job of loosening the heavy stuff with a bristle brush. I used Goof Off and elbow grease to get to where they are now. My brother recommended a P21S product, but by the time I received that recommendation I was pretty much done.
Yesterday installed LN Deep sump... quite a self induced adventure due to an inadvertent doubling up of the spin on filter O Ring... long and short, don't be like me, pay attention to the small stuff even on routine maintenance you've done many, many times. But, parts look really good.
Today, after I finished cleaning up from my disaster yesterday and while I wait for another case of oil, I swapped my Sparco Evo from the drivers to passenger side and installed a Recaro SPG in the driver.
If you have messed around with seat/harness install you probably know how huge of a pain in the *** it is. I can tell you, if you want to minimize the pain, get BK auto stuff, It is so much better that the other stuff I've used. Fit was VERY close to perfect. The drivers side has the floor mounts with the harness bar and it is awesome, Very low mounting position, I can see my whole tach again ! I used the mounts that attach to the stock sliders for the passenger and they worked very well also.
Happy it's over, I'm not messing with seats for a long time. This should get the cars weight under 3K LBS. I have a PC680 and Rennline mount sitting around I will install before the long weekend is over and hopefully be around 2950 LBS...
Drove my '99 from Northern Virginia to San Antonio Texas. Stopped midway for the night in Nashville, woke up and decided I wanted new tires after hitting heavy rain on the first leg. Dealer had a set of PS2's (N2) in stock, so I pulled the trigger (295/30 19 & 235/35 19)...fit perfectly on a NB. Confidence is a new set of tires...what a difference!
I see some differences.
The left and right edges have edges rolled upwards on mine, tough to see from your pic if that matches yours.
The rear mounting tabs on yours are rectangular, mine have an irregular shape.
Not sure which design is the more recent...
ETA...
Side view showing rolled edge
01 c4 cab began randomly blowing its own horn - annoying to embarrassing. Yesterday my neighbor came over to see what was the problem - the car was just sitting in the driveway with the horn going on and off. I figured it was the notorious horn / airbag plate bushings, but to my surprise they are in excellent condition. The horn ground wire was very loose, I figure that was the culprit. I squeezed the female connector with a needle-nose pliar to get a tighter fit, added some prophylactic 0-rings to the 4 studs, and all fixed - fingers crossed!
Next I gotta find the source of a creaking noise in the dash. It's not the suspension, I can make the sound just by pulling up or down on the steering wheel, the noise is definitely inside the passenger cabin. Only 40,000 miles on the car, it's been garage-kept and babied. The dash was removed to replace heater plenum foam and an after-market stereo has been installed, otherwise bone stock.
What happens if you get it on the tires or rotors? I've seen stuff like Iron X make brown spots on tires but that can be avoided by pretreating the tires with APC and rinsing wheels and tires thoroughly. The only brakes I've ever heard/seen issues with regarding chemicals are carbon ceramics.
The Rennline Battery mount with kill switch and an Odyssey PC680. I have run these batteries before and they have always been great as long as I treat them well. Kill switch only for battery disconnect when the car is sitting.
I'd have to say at least a 30 LBS savings over stock, not sure of too many ways to drop that kind of weight for such short money. Install was very easy and the parts are very well made.
Thumbs up to Rennline.
Now on to detail my Dad's car, late fathers day present.
Swapped out my trunk lid emblem. Took entirely too long beause of how gross the old adhesive was. I think the silver looks way better on the lapis blue paint.
Prefer the silver badge myself, swapped mine out a while ago because it was somehow broken and had so much build up and removing it allowed me to polishing behind it. For the stubborn adhesive you can use an eraser wheel on a drill and it will take much less time.
Bill,
Thanks for the tip. Luckily, I only used this stuff on the back side of the wheel. I don�t know exactly what the main ingredient is, but it seemed chemically pretty aggressive. The label indicated it was safe for all wheels, including painted clear coat. That said, I do not think I will be buying that product again.
Thanks again,
Installed manual override switches for radiator and engine compartment cooling fans, used these instructions kindly provided by another member many years ago. I used a small toggle switch for the rad fans and a push button for the engine fan, this way I don�t need to look at the switches to tell them apart. Installed them on the carpeted panel of the front console. Easy to reach from the driver�s seat.
Upgraded the washers on my RS engine mounts.
I strategically waited until the hottest part of the day so I could make a relatively mundane task as unpleasant as possible.
This was all per this Porsche TSB�
The upgraded washers are significantly beefier. Old ones on the left, new ones on the right.
I really don�t think it was that big of a deal but if Porsche thinks I should buy some insanely overpriced nuts and washers to make the car safer, who am I to question?
Nice PCH drive today. Took the 2004 off the lift, moved the 1988 Cab to top spot and exercised my 33k mile mint AE. Yes, LN Solution, I said I would never buy into the hype but this keeper car (said same about my two 930s) I figured what the heck. I do admit it is nice never to think about IMSB failure on a sunday drive.
I'll be listing my '03 C2 in the next couple of weeks. I bought it in December to daily drive, but I also have a 996TT and cannot justify having both while I'm working from home through year end. Purchased at 62K miles and enjoyed 4K glorious miles through March. In the 3 months I've been home, however, I've put <300 miles on it. These cars are too enjoyable to sit and are simply healthier when they're driven. If anybody is looking for one and isn't interested in the 5% auction platform premium, this is it...
Not sure if this is the appropriate thread to post additional details, so feel free to message me while I mobilize the proper presentation (including pro pics)!
-Joe
From that view - I like it the way it is. I'd need to see the rest of the car to see if I hold to that.
I'm pretty sure I've mentioned it before - that is a great color.
Btw, those scratches in the pic above your gauges, I know how to fix them easy. I'm in the process of repairing my scratches. So far it looks amazing! Trick is taking a piece of trim to Home Depot and getting 8 oz of Matte paint. So far, so good!
Lets see a pic of the whole car. I agree, it�s hard to determine which way to go. When I see these cars with carbon diffusers in back and front aero, I like the raw look. But there�s no carbon in back of this car
I still take a contrary position. I like a certain amount of contrast and black tends to work for me. Then again, I like black wheels - so take it for what it's worth.
If anything, I would paint flat black.
I’m very happy with my spoiler lip in black.
Im going to keep it that way.
My old lip was seal grey.
But the spoiler above looks best painted IMHO.
But I think they need to add a black lip.
I'm right in the middle of refinishing some 17" twist wheels in in silver in order to have a second set of wheels.
I got them for cheap off Craigslist but they've got curb rash on every wheel.
I'm kinda "meh" with the looks of the twists.
I've always though my Carrera IIs were the best looking wheels on a 996, but MAN do I like the look of your wheels!
What color are they?
I wonder what that color would look like with seal gray.
Someone pry me away from the keyboard so I don't order some OZ wheels!
My 996 today? Boring run to store to buy more beer. At least the run in the car was good. But are we ever going to come out on the other side of all this? Did I mention I hate wearing a mask? Well I do, and mostly refuse. And the hand sanitizer is killing my steering wheel....sigh...blah de blah de blah
Hey now, I wear a mask all day even before COVID, so you're preaching to the choir, here :P
More Leatherique applications for your steering wheel may be necessary, and some nice lotion for your skin!
-Matt
I dropped off my 17" twist wheels at Discount Tire and had them dismount and discard the 14 year old barely worn tires on them.
I picked them up later and the guy who worked there asked me again if I was sure I didn't want them.
Date code of early 2006....nope!
They really were nice looking, but I'm not going to drive (at the speeds I like to drive) on 14 year old tires.
Now I can refinish the wheels (curb rashed
) and install some new tires.
It's a beautiful color, it really changes depending on the light, I love it! here you go, hopefully i don't get banned for so many pictures, lol
Thank you!!! Hahaha you should just go for it, these wheels are amazing, on mine I have matte bronze not sure what would be the best color for your car though.
I'm gonna paint my spoiler btw.
Dropped my 2000 C4 Cab at the dealer to diagnose & fix the brake and fuel tank problems I'm having w/it.
No loaners available and didn't want to take a free Uber ride home & back to the dealer. So, I rented this Maserati Ghibli at the Enterprize located up the street.
Coulld have been cleaner but this is a big and seriously fast car that I found hard to keep under 90 on the way home. Most people just got out of the way when they saw it coming and those that didn't I passed in a flash.
A lot of fun to drive on the freeway. Not so sure that it would be as much fun to drive on the back roads but, if the car is in the shop long enough, I may give that a try. Expect to have it for at least a couple of days.
No extended warranty. Shop rate is $210/hr.
Asked them to figure out why brake pedal travels so far and is so soft. Only thing not "new" in the brake system is the brake booster which could be the problem.
Also asked them to figure out why the fuel gauge is stuck on fuel and why I can't refill it w/o holding onto the gas nozzle; brief research suggests excess back pressue due to a faulty fuel line vent valve and/or fuel tank bleeder valve.
Estimate of 2 hours just to diagnose the problems. So, it's $420 to start and I'm ready to see a bill of up to $2k if they can figure out the source of the problems and fix them.
In the meantime, I'm just going to enjoy driving the Ghibli.
Drove mine for the first time in almost two weeks.
I went to pick up Schweinshaxe, Rotkohl, und Sp�tzle for dinner.
Here’s the best picture from the drive:
Es war ausgezeichnet!
Escreation,
Beautiful cars, both 996 & RX7, must have been a fun drive in the canyon. May I ask what kind of front-bumper lip you have there? I would like to get something similar for my GT3 front bumper, hopefully it's not in CF. Thanks in advance, cheers,
Got my new cabriolet top installed on my 2001 C2 Cab and couldn't be happier... I decided to upgrade to the glass window and now have a real "three-season" car for the weather up here in Canada. New Image Auto Interiors did an awesome job! Thanks to all the Rennlisters for their recommendations.
Ja, es was wunderbar
I went to The Sauer Kraut Grill. (About 1 mile from my house)
My son worked/works there.
He is currently not working because my mother-in-law is having health issues and the doctor said if we want to care for her we need to isolate from everyone else.
If you ever make it to Fredericksburg, Ausl�nder or Der Lindenbaum are great places to eat.
Happy to say i was back on track w Betty at Pocono Raceway this week.
Pagids + OMP seats/harness makes a world of difference. Next will be OZ wheels + R888R ... watkins glen later this month.
Hi friend
I use leatherique products.
Ok ill give you a resume without the whole procedure as you can find theses details easily on their website.
1-Leatherique oil + cleaner
2-Sanding using 400 grit paper + dye remover
3-Leatherique oil + cleaner
4-Applying putty to "damaged" area
5-Spray dye with a paint gun 50/50 water or as your setup works best with
its a technique that its kinda hard to explain as its more a thing of feeling... like cooking right?
But the trick is using the spray gun.
You can set the gun at around 25-30psi
The dye will dry really fast you can do 2-3 coats, 1 each 20-30mins.
As I said the dye dries fast so it can clog the gun nozzle whixh mean you have to be fast, precise and clean the gun assembly a couple time to complete a seat.
But you will see it work wonders.
The pictures above are from last year, my first attemp... I decided to give it a try cause I could not damage the seat more then it was.
Did a few mistakes..
I applied to much putty and had to sand down way too much.
I also did a finish that is too "perfect" if I can say it that way..Leather is porrous normally...
Still Im quite happy with the overall results
Im trying to bring the car back to the standard it deserve.
I also did the shifter:
PM me if you have more questions.
Hugo
There are several products on the market that do a great job (Leatherique being but one). I've used LeatherWorld Technologies repair kit with great results (see here -
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...therworld.html
). There's really no need for a spray gun, though if you have one you can certainly get great results - the drawback being set-up (masking so as not to damage anything else with over-spray) and clean-up. I've got spray equipment, and planned to use it on my most recent project, however, I decided to go with the sponge application technique and once again it worked out really well (had I gone all out and removed the seats from the car, I probably would have sprayed them - that was my first inclination, but space was limited so I decided to leave them in the car - not conducive to spraying!). I've done the seat repair seen in the link above, as well as 2 steering wheels, two shift boots and a hand-brake handle from 1-16oz. repair kit. The dye can also be purchased separately (as I did for my most recent seat project seen here -
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...a-996-a-5.html
). The match is perfect for the work I did 4 years ago (it starts out a little light but darkens up a little over time (about 6 months to a year) to where it matches perfectly with the original interior. Where I did the "natural brown" on the back seats I used a different company/product -
https://www.seatdoctors.com/diy-leather-dye/
This stuff matched the 997 "natural brown" leather perfectly and covered over the Savanna Beige on my rear seat backs in 3 coats. Anyway, I've typed way more than I originally planned to - good luck with your project regardless of which product you use! Please document it and post photo's for future users
Yeah I use a foam cannon, 2 buckets, pressure washer, ceramic detail spray - the whole 9 yards. My wife doesn't understand how I can be outside washing a car for hours, but then once she sees mine she wants her SUV done the same way. TBH I think it's entirely worth it, especially if you already have a pressure washer.
Thank you! I purchased lip from here
https://www.fvd.net/us-en/9965059869...p-car-lip.html
If you have the same bumper as mine, check this link
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ro-bumper.html
Bought it, washed it, buffed it, polished it, waxed it! We can't believe how great the paint on this looks after almost 20 years, even if we spent about 5 hours on it. Bonus sibling photo (not mine). Ignore the Ohio State flag (also not mine)...
This will need a good bit of attention on the front seats, so thanks for that detailed leather instructions,
Os7213.
Original plan was purchase a black center console and be done with it, but since free time is plenty going to refurbish the original Savannah beige. Once the plastic bits are done, the leather is next in line.
LOL! i'm doing the same thing!
Did you know about using paint from Home Depot to paint it to original? There was an article 2 years ago in the Panorama. Simply put, take a piece of trim and have them use the computer to match it. Get the 8 oz of the best paint in Matte finish. I did that and it matches perfectly! Some places I air brush, some I just use a brush and touch up. If you want more detailed info pm me.
Nice!
Yeah, I had done some research and saw a handful of posts about people using Home Depot for color matching. I ended up getting a can of Color Bond LVP Refinisher and tested it out on the piece surrounding the ignition tumbler and radio surround pieces. Turned out pretty close, slightly darker, will be pretty much unnoticeable once the rest of the pieces are painted to match.
What are your plans for that? I have looked into after-market vs trying to find some good condition used pieces as well. Both of my front seats' bottom halves could use a replacement.
I had a big scratch in mine (black) and used a fine tip sharpie to cover the white between the crack in the meantime.
I'm not sure what kind of wear you're working with but mine is pretty minimal. Surface dry cracking. Have used Leatherique on previous vehicles and stand by their products 100%. For my seats I'll just be using rejuvenating oil and prestine clean. Will get some pictures of the wear later today for reference.
In regards to the scratch on yours, Leatherique offers a crack filler that should do the trick.
http://www.leatherique.com/products.html
The results with Home Depot matching is definitely more accurate, and I do kind of wish I had gone that route. However, my feet are wet now, so might as well swim forward.
It was a blast. 1st track day trying to be deliberate in taking as much away from it as possible. It was like trying to drink from a fire hose !
Ill have a write up and video up after work today or tomorrow.
I wasn't happy with the color of my first stripe so I tried out a different film. I made some mistakes so I need to redo some of it, but I am much happier with this look.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_5195_a9f0e104969b7271c1f8dd13985a5f65a08e20ac.jpg
Well I think I have a problem, what is your opinion? Today I pulled out the recent 996 media stuff I have purchased and read every word (and loved it)!
Took care of a bunch of maintenance over the past month. Dropped more on the car this year than in any year prior. Replaced hood struts, engine mounts, drop links, sway bushings, axles, inner tie rods, strut mounts, rear tires, alignment, trans/diff flush, brake flush, oil change. After all this, thinking about listing it for sale and going up to a turbo. Always have a bit of paranoia about the IMS (I have a 6 year old LN bearing) and the possibility of scored cylinders. Nothing to substantiate the fears, but it's always in the back of my mind. Has anyone considered or done the same?
Your IMSB is due for another change, why wait?
Bore scoring, get it scoped!
Or wait and sell it to me when it becomes a roller ( I have a motor for it)
The solution costs what, $6k+ from an approved shop? Then there�s other failures to consider. Once one of those takes place, my $6k from the IMSB is gone. At this point I feel like it makes most sense to drive it til (if) it pops from IMSB, tensioners, bore scoring or something else, and send it off to FSI where they�ll put in the solution as part of a rebuild anyways.
Or sell it now and stop sweating it all the time. The car runs and drives fantastic now and it pains me to not be able to enjoy it.
Replaced the factory stereo with a Pioneer with wireless CarPlay. Ran the mic to the stock location and replaced the lighter with a USB port. More info in the stereo upgrades thread.
Ssherman68, I also installed a Pioneer (4500NEX) with wireless Apple CarPlay. That was 6 months ago and I love it. I then installed a backup camera, so maybe that's your next fun project.
Replaced the dying rear hood strut - <!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->$17.21 and 5 minutes of labor!
I just bought all my parts to do this today - eagerly awaiting the shipment. Congrats, looks great.
I know the feeling. My stuff was supposed to come on Friday so I'd have the weekend. Didn't come until Monday. Aaaaaghhh! I had to do the install Tuesday/Wednesday night. I was able to get the GPS antenna installed over the weekend as I already had the stereo.
Would you replace it with another sports car if you sold it? Performance vehicles, especially non-US, all come with their own nannies and associated costs. 996 may have a decent amount to worry about, but if you get in another performance car that doesn't absolve potential issues. Unless it's a 2020 and it comes with full warranty and covered maintenance.
It sucks because it's easy to let things worry us, but if it bothers you that much maybe it's better to offload it and drive something that makes you more comfortable. Risk, reward, and all that good stuff.
I think this is part of the problem. If you are like me, you always need something to work on. Something that isn't quite perfect that can be made better. Your car looks amazing and it sounds like you done a bunch of work to make it like this. And now the work is done. Moving to a Turbo would be a whole new set of problems to think about and solve. I bought my 996 knowing that the engine would pop one day, but also knowing there were really good people that could fix it as well. The price of the fix was built into the deal. Good luck with your decision!
Six months ago I replaced the shocks and Struts with Koni's. Then the car sat...
Until today! Had Dan do an all wheel alignment and did a quick trip on Elfin Forrest Road.
What a difference!
sixfiveoh, you like your 996, but it's hard to sleep soundly worried about the IMS bearing. There's another solution if you've got some tools and courage to learn. I bought my 996 knowing I'd change the IMS, which I did in my garage on jack stands, and now I have no worries. Watch some YouTube videos - search "996 IMS" - to decide if you are up to it. With some planning and parts from LN Engineering, plus tool rental from them, you replace your IMS bearing with the LN Retro ceramic bearing for less than $1K. Plus, you'll have the satisfaction of knowing, "I did it!"
Finally carpeted the sub-woofer box I built a few months ago. The sound system is a funny amalgam. Original amp and speakers, Alpine head unit that has a 9 band eq and time correction. The sub-woofer added significant dimension to the sound. It's an 8L closed enclosure designed to replace the useless rear seat. With the rear seat back lowered, you can't even tell it's there.
Now I need to replace the amp and speakers. Looking at 6 channel DSP's around 50W RMS per channel. All I want is decent sound at 80mph. Is it too much to ask?
It�s running a new high compression 2.3 type 4 and needs 1000 break in miles around town. Bare metal restore completed a few weeks ago. It�s obviously a very different driving experience vs. the 996 but the lightness of the front end on both provides some hints to lineage.
I'm 100% this way. I love to maintain and restore. I think a lot of us are!
I've seen videos of the job and it honestly seems technically pretty reasonable. It's the lack of a good garage, lift, etc. Tough dropping a trans in a carport and all! But may be something I consider.
Definitely, and it's something I've thought through. Doing a rebuild and being 50k into a basically brand new 996 that would last decades wouldn't be the worst thing in the world, but it's something I gotta be totally sure about.
All that aside, after putting some good love and maintenance into the car over the past month, I did what you're supposed to do - drive it! Went out on a drive with a local group of guys, ripped some mountains. Now that was fun! 1 of 2 996s of 20 cars there, felt cool to stand out a bit.
Looks like you had fun.
I'm not into group rides (goes back to when I was motorcycling) but was wondering where you guys were driving.
Obviously somewhere along the coast. The sign/side of the convenience store pictured looks familiar to me but I can't place it.
In what town is it located and what route (in general) did you take during the drive?
Change the wheels on the kid car, bought these in SF and were flat black, Local wheel power coater having special gloss black powder coat for 99 dollars each. came out great.
Well i was gonna replace the Walther low temp t-stat with an LN low temp but someone at LN decided to relabel the box and i got the install tool instead. AutohuasAZ is correcting the problem but its dissappointing when u dont get what u ordered. I asked Autohuas to call LN so they dont do the same thing as the part numbers r only one different.
Scott, I found that Porsche OEM tail in S.F. craigslist, since he lives in S.F. I called him immediately go and buy it for me, LOL since it matched his color I let him have it. It is OEM spoiler GT3 cabriolet. paid 1500.
Yeah, that's it. Thanks!
The convenience store (Wild Roots Market) in the picture is located just past the Chevron Station at the corner of Big Basin Way & Hwy 9, which is how I recall the sign/side of the building.
I seldom drive thru Boulder Creek towards Felton/Santa Cruz. Too much traffic for my taste on Hwy 9. I always turn right at Basin Basin Way before entering Boulder Creek which I take to Jamison Creek to the top of the ridge and then and down the hill into Santa Cruz via Empire Grade.
A great way to AVOID the traffic on 9 if you haven't taken it before.
Looks like fun!
Haven't driven that section of 175 but have driven it from Middletown to Cobb to Kelseyville than around the lake back to Middletown via 29/20/53/29.
It's a road that my MR2 would love but the 911 is probably a bit too over-powered and a bit too heavy to handle it quite as well.
I hit it hard on my eastbound drive towards the lake. Agree an MR2 might be a little lighter on its feet, but it was still a blast ripping out of those hairpins in 2nd gear!
Took it more slowly westbound because I lost my eyeglasses in the lake. Some crazy woman in a Mazda actually caught up to me and I let her go by. Must have been a local who drives it all the time (at least that's my story and I am sticking to it.)
Since I had to put in LONG hours on Saturday and Sunday, I took today off.
I went from this:
To this:
Hub and 15mm spacer came from Carnewal.
No airbag light. (Gert’s included resistor worked great)
Somewhere I have a Porsche horn button that I‘ll install when I get a chance.
The horn isn’t working, but I think I know where to start for a fix.
I‘ll pull the MOMO wheel and Carnewal hub and take a look when I get a chance.
I had to finish quickly due to family emergency. (Mother in law’s yard guy has COVID and her yard needs mowing NOW!)
Oh, and I can see the top of my gauges.
UPDATE: Honk Honk! Horn works. Only took about 45 minutes to resolve.
Yet another Update: I’ve had several of y’all ask, no I don’t plan on selling my old 3-spoke steering wheel, I‘ll be keeping it. It is Metropol Blue, so it wouldn’t work for most of y’all anyways. I do have an old black 4-spoke that could use a new home.
Before:
Final product:
Next in line tails and clear sides (still partial on the tail lights, going to install and feel it out. Saw someone else post these and made an impulse buy thinking it'd look good with Guards Red):
Should I decide to sell I've kept all the OEM so hopefully this will cater to a broader audience.
I bench tested a $9.00 Ebay bluetooth module for the Becker AUX input to see if it would be a better choice than the wired version with the 3.5mm mini plug.
I changed the tails, one of the stockers was cracked when I bought the car, I ended up really liking the look - it did, for me make it look more modern. I think I have the same ones you have pictured.
Sanded down the blue and sprayed it to match the other interior trim graphite color.
Also installed B&M shifter.
It was a very crusty blue. So it definitely feels like an upgrade lol
Hows the wheel feel?
I've been tempted to do the MOMO swap for a long time but really like the feel of my 3 spoke. Just wish it was a little smaller in diameter...I actually Have a MOMO Course on my speedster that never gets driven anymore.
I haven�t driven it yet.
Thought I�d take it for a spin at lunch today, but it is pouring rain and will likely flood our street soon, so I�ll have to wait.
when I put everything back together last night I got the horn button crooked.
It is so tight that I have to pull the wheel to straighten it.
I think I�ll fix that at Lunch instead.
It is bothering me even though I can�t actually see it.
Great job! Must be a bunch of "paint to original color" vibes rolling around. I just painted mine back to the original Graphite Grey also.
What kind of paint did you use?
honestly i just resprayed some of my TE37s graphite with rustoleum wheel paint. Had some left over and use the wheel paint. Almost perfect match lol.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4ARK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4ARK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I still haven�t driven it, but trying it out in the garage it was a little wobbly.
I pulled it apart and then finally realized I needed a thicker washer underneath.
I ended up using two drain plug washers.
No more wobble.
I also found the Porsche horn button.
It looks a lot better!
I changed the engine oil and filter yesterday. Should have been a quick job, but there were issues. Firstly, I had collected oil from the filter in a mason jar so i could visually inspect the contents,, managed to spill it on the floor. Secondly, the filter wasnt correct, so I had to re use the old filter, which was only 2 weeks old as it was replaced during the PPI oil inspection. Third, the oil fill tube was broken, so I had to repair using the rubber neck down pipe joint from another thread. The good news is I got the mobil1 5w50 on deep discount from a local napa,, and the oil that I inspected was very clean of debris. Only typical tiny stuff. Next project, straightening out the audio system. Previous owner had installed an aftermarket bluetooth device and really hacked up the wiring harness. Im going to repair the harness, and install a bluetooth single din with small sub on rear shelf.
This looks so damn good. Wish to share where you purchased the setup from? Any time I start researching custom shift ***** I see that people had to cut and modify parts and I just do not trust myself on not breaking something I just spent good money on.
Manuel Campuzano
[email removed]
or on ebay (MCV911)
https://www.ebay.com/usr/mcv911?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
Originally saw it here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...ob-fitted.html
He's great to work with. Lots of options. Good communication. Excellent product.
Got the shift boot from JF Customs off eBay. Based in the UK so takes some time to make/ship/arrive, but wanted real leather and also an excellent product. The standard boot was too short, so ended up asking for one 2 inches longer. They were great in accommodating. Looks much better when folded over and can adjust to length desired under ****.
Bought a shift boot retaining frame so I didn't have to take apart the original shifter.
996.552.655.01
M
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Working my way through the rear suspension and brakes, the old eccentric bolts were so corroded they we're literally bonded to the suspension bushes , had to cut the bolts out in the end !
photo552.jpg
photo698.jpg
Along with the low temp ln t-stat i did earlier this week i fixed a low speed fan resistor with an amazon $5 part. Hopefully this squares away my recent cooling issues.
Fresh Brake flush with Castrol SRF and mounted up Aim Solo 2 loaner I got from Matt @ TrailBrake.com in the place I think I will keep it for my next track day on Thursday.
Excited to get some data from the day.
Also mounted the GT3 Brake ducts the other night. GT3 on top, stock bottom - $8.42 + Shipping for the pair from FCP Euro !
Well, the last several days I’ve pulled and re-installed my new MOMO Prototipo steering wheel a dozen times.
First no horn. Pulled wheel 2 times.
Then honking when turning. Pulled wheel 4 times.
Wheel wobbling. Pulled wheel 3 times.
Then wheel slightly too far clockwise while driving straight. Pulled wheel once.
Then steering wheel too far counterclockwise while driving. Pulled wheel once.
Today I pulled my car out of the garage to do some electrical work.
When I went to pull it back inside, it was raining.
Arrgh, no wipers.
Pulled wheel once again.
Wiper plug partially disconnected.
put everything back together and now have horn, no honk on turning, turn signals, OBC, cruise control, and turn signals.
I also pulled the center console several times.
I replaced the aluminum shifter bushings in my GT3 shifter.
Pulled center console.
Replaced bushings.
Used correct tool to align shifter.
Decided to pull car out of garage to do the electrical work in garage.
Car wouldn’t go in reverse.
Pulled console again.
Realigned cables (didn’t use the correct tool this time)
Car went into reverse fine.
Reinstalled console and shift boot frame on my aftermarket shift boot (which was in bad shape) broke.
Pulled out factory shift boot with frame in good shape.
removed factory shift **** and installed it on my FF shift ****.
I think I prefer the blue factory boot with aluminum trim.
Pulled car back into garage.
Emergency brake was rubbing on console.
Pulled console again and shifted forward 1mm and now it doesn’t rub.
LOTS of extra unnecessary labor.
I’m happy with the results, but boy am I tired.
I also have improved lighting in my garage!
Other than sounding like it is a difficult install, I would be interested in your impressions after driving for a while . Are you only tracking the car or using it on road. Just curious what the ramifications of on road driving are.
Looks nice. I especially like the smaller diameter compared to stock.
Did you use the air bag delete resistor?
only issue I have is a lazy turn single cancel. It's a bit dangerous with people thinking you're turning, but I've adapted by manually canceling turn signal evertime.
It wasn’t tough actually, but took a lot of fiddling to get everything just right.
It is/was my daily driver pre-COVID.
Someday soon I hope it will be again.
So far on twisty low speed turns the steering response is a lot better.
I did use the resistor and had no airbag lights.
My turn signal resets just like before.
Me too.
My pride is a bit bruised.
I hadn’t installed an aftermarket steering wheel in a car(VW Scirocco) since the 80’s.
I had to fiddle with it a bit on my 964 so I know what you mean. Seems like it should just be a matter of bolting things on but it doesn't quite work that way sometimes, especially if you don't do these installs very often. Kinda hafta work on it a bit to get everything peachy. What resistor did you use?
Certainly within spec. I think the maximum consumption is well under 1,000 miles per quart.
The important thing is to track the rate. If the rate is steady, don�t be alarmed. If the rate suddenly increases, time for investigation.
I lifted my 996 today for the first time with my “New” QuickJack.
I bought a BL-5000 jack on Craigslist that was advertised as a SLX but wasn’t an SLX.
The price (dirt cheap) was worth it, especially for the car ministry vehicle repairs.
(I provide free labor and discounted/free parts for those struggling with finances.)
I ordered 5000SLX frames and they were delivered today.
Picked up some wheels, maybe track wheels.
Anyone know what they are ? Powdercoat was done by PO
18x8 +50 F
18x10 +40 R
ETA... Found it - BSA 215 rims. 40 offset in the rear is pretty aggressive. Rear weigh 24.6 lbs ea. and fronts 21.8 lbs ea.
I had mine on the Quickjacks yesterday to vacuum out the radiator inlets. It�s so quick and easy, why not. While up there, do a roll through on the creeper and check things out.
I cut four tapered blocks to get the car high enough to stack both blocks in one pick. I just added rubber belting to the underside of the blocks to help keep them in place. The blocks don�t have the rubber on them in this picture.
I extended the rubber past the incoming end of the block to help hold them in place when driving in. I have a mirror angled to help align the car with the block as I drive in.
I took the car for a drive this morning...always a treat.
Thanks for the reply.
Still getting to know the quirks of this car after only 10 months of ownership. I'm use to no oil usage between oil changes for any of my vehicles including my F250. So, this is new to me. Already check the tire pressure before each outing and now need to remember to check the oil level as well.
I really like those.
They should look good on your car.
I’d put a matching Orange “Porsche” stripe down the side of your car.
My wife would hate it, but I think it would look great.
I'm sticking with my bronze wheels, so I can't commit to the orange theme, although it would look pretty cool.
I'm a little concerned that with the gnarly offset 285's in the back might be pretty tight. If anyone in MA/RI/CT has a 285/35, 285/30 or a 295/30 in 18 laying around and want to let me borrow for a test fit, would provide 6 pack for the trouble.
I got these for cheap and wanted to have a set of wheels ready for some R888's or Cup 2's in the event I hit checkout on my tire rack cart in a drunken stopper, at least that's the story I'm prepared to use.
The 285-95 will work on a c2 with some work. Roll the fenders, put 2.5* of camber on the back and make sure u have good bumpstoos. I also had to trim the bumper a little.i did it with some 19s for a while so u can make it work.
I run 285/35 now on factory lightweight a fit is perfect, Just an offset issue in the new wheels.
I�m going to see if I can find some takeoffs to test fit.
Got them for the track, not going to compromise anything to run them, if they don�t work, I�ll sell.
They do look pretty cool though.
Those wheels - I see what looks like two missing bolts. Are those one piece wheels that have fake bolts or are you really missing two on a true multi-part wheel?
If one-piece - do you need any spares? I have a set that might be a match.
-Tom
Hey, Can anyone help me out on what spacer I can put on the stock 02 LW wheel to mimic a ET40 offset ?
NM - I see its a 25MM diff from stock. I've got a 15MM spacer on the rear and a 12MM on the front currently - I've got an idea ! Hold my beer.
Guess I'll have to buy an extra qt to keep on hand too.
Just using 5-40 synthetic. Not convinced that I need to go to DT40 w/a LNE spin-on filter adapter w/a Napa filter plus an oil analysis but I am actually thinking about changing the oil myself in the 911. Something I haven't done in any car over the 20 years.
Have the ramps and the tools. Just need the energy and desire to go to the bother of doing that. LOL!
Porsche makes an official pouch to carry an extra liter of oil. It even has a paper funnel and plastic glove.
I carry one in my frunk but it's more for show.
Too hot to be anywhere but in the garage led to the repair trifecta 1)Replaced driver side window regulator 2) Replaced air idle valve 3) installed new stereo head unit.
This what you're talking about?
I did it once, and can't remember exactly. Wire connectors give me fits. If my new to me euro 996 lwb seats show up tomorrow, I'll snap some pics on how I did it. If you figured it out already, post up.
Sounds like a heck of a day. If you can post pictures of the oil typical tiny stuff and maybe consider sending it in for an oil analysis. Any other info about your car would be appreciated! Welcome!
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I upgraded my UAOS accumulator to the new aluminum one.
In my opinion, this is a worthy upgrade, especially for anyone that plans to track their car.
It is a LOT more rugged than the original accumulator.
Thought about that but even if that works one of the teeth is stripped pretty well so I will just wait until I get a new one. First time taking the wheels off since I took ownership but I managed to get one side off so I can take that one to the dealer and have them match it up.
Exactly what I was doing, good to see everyone hates wheel locks as much as I do
Spent part of the day talking to trans builders. My 04 C4S that I knew needed struts and mounts now needs the trans rebuilt. Oh, and a new cat on bank 1, oh and a passenger side door lock actuator. Start putting $'s away at 100k in mileage. Anyone want an otherwise nice Seal Gray C4S for $17.5k? I'm likely going to keep it but right now, I'm a bit shell shocked at what its going to take to put it back in good order......
Nice job and the car sounds awesome. My track adventures will be mostly done in my vintage race car going forward. I've only used the 996 when I instruct to show a new student around. It's become my DD as I enter into a pre retirement period working part time.
I noticed a distinct howl/whine the other day on some very fresh pavement. Inspection of the fluid did not go well. Dark and lots of metal. Talking to Roger at California Motorsports and others it sounds like the pinion bearing which is a weak point in these transaxles. He said getting 103k out of one isn't bad.
Yup, dispatched him in the next passing zone. The traffic made for good practice overtaking safely and deliberately.
Thanks ! I think it’s the best sounding car out there, not too loud, it’s loud on the street but compared to other cars on track it’s pretty tame. Nice to have options on car choice, love the livery ! Congrats on the semi retirement.
Yep, painted with LVP Savannah Beige. Removed panels and wet sanded 800 grit to level surfaces, after that wet sanded 1400 grit to smooth out. Sprayed a thin layer of standard plastic grey primer then coated with LVP.
I will say, you can put all the time in to make the final product look good, but take time installing, very easy to mark / scratch surfaces and have to go back to square one.
Finally got around to installing clear sides and the LED tails. Like the look of both, but the LED tails didn't seem to have a connection for the reverse tail light? Can anyone confirm that? There were 4 plugs on the tails but 5 lights on the factory lights, I assume the 5th is reverse lights;
What's the gray container with the 80/50 km/h sticker on it? Tire sealant? I see an ///M logo....
I like the first aid kit and warning triangle. Where did you get them?
The triangle came from Sonnen and the first aid kit came from Sonnen or Ebay.
Yes, the gray thing is an extra compressor/sealant kit from a BMW I had (good eye to spot the M logo BTW). I also carry a tire plug kit. I'm trying to make using the space saver spare a last resort.
EDIT: It looks like the first aid kit came from Ebay as a first aid kit/safety vest combo.
You can kind of see the safety vest box poking out here. Can't see a situation where I would use it but it fit nicely in that spot so what the hay?
Have brake lights, running tail lights, and turns, but no reverse. Left the OEM bulb in the unused port and still didn't light up when put in reverse. Might tinker with it more later, it's just been ridiculously hot/humid so non-climate garage isn't very enjoyable this time of year.
Could be your reverse light switch on the transmission. PITA to check and change out. Have to remove the underbody tray to access transmission. Depending on the level of pain you are willing to undertake, not having reverse lights is not the worst thing in the world.
Went for a 40 mile drive prior to installing and they worked when backing into the garage, can a switch go that easily? Agreed, it's not the worst thing in the world, but it adds one more lighting electrical issue that will get put off and sit in the back of my head every day.
It would bother me.
I also see it as a safety item.
People in parking lots won't think you're backing up and may not look back while backing, thus backing into you.
Yep, every day gets harder to trust the general public and their driving "capabilities and or awareness". Thankfully it's the secondary car so it can sit until sorted.
Oil change day. Switch from Mobil1 to DT40.
I get street cred for filling the UOA bottle without dribbling all over it
But get sent back to go based on the oil filter inspection. This is the biggest piece of unpleasantness found
There were 7 or so pieces this size: Sorry the picture is poor, but you can gauge the size
On closer inspection, every 10th or so pleat you would see 10 to 20 really small reflective dots. I didn't see these until after the filter element had drained. No picture. I'd have to get out my old camera with the macro lens to capture them. I also did not check whether they were magnetic. The UOA will tell the story.
This was not really a surprise. The engine started 'the tick' 6 or so months ago. An FSI rebuild has already been scheduled. Can't wait!
So, what to do after you find out that your engine is failing? GO FOR A DRIVE!!!!
Got these for a great deal, cleaned them up a little with some polish and put them on last night. Finished lining up the tips today and took it for a very satisfying drive.
The sound difference is night and day. Not too loud but still enough to be heard in lower rpms
Can you post a link, or post info on where the UOA is being done?
I have never done this, and would like to start when I change oil next (soon)
Thanks in advance, Greg
@golock911
Sorry to hear of the misfortune. But doing an FSI rebuild is definitely making lemonade from lemons. Could you share your most recent oil analysis report? I�d be interested to see your numbers for silicon, aluminum, etc.
@Gregs04.5: This is the first one for me. Here is the link to the one I'm using:
https://www.speediagnostix.com
But you need to buy the kits from LN Engineering:
https://lnengineering.com/products/u...customers.html
@islaTurbine: Yes, I will definitely post the results. Agreed that data is cool. From all the videos and discussion on the bore scoring, it seems there is a specific progression that can be seen in the data as the engine deteriorates. I'm sorry I didn't start sooner.
LOL, your the perfect candidate to use adult diapers, they work great laying them down first, get the square one's , not the slip on. I use them on all oil changes.
If I'm pulling out the 1/4" ratchet, its going to suck....
Replaced my cracked, duct taped oil fill tube - got lucky, was not too bad. Soaked the alternator bushing in PB blaster for 1/2 hour and it moved the little bit needed with a couple taps. Just shifted the alternator out of the way as opposed to removing it... Lot of blind work but not too bad if you make sure to NOT DROP ANYTHING.
Cleaned the manifolds, crossover, plenum and TB from my oil issue at the track and put everything back together. Side note, the plenum sucks... About 1 out of 3 times it just slides back together so easy - the other 2 - lot of wrestling.
After I got the duct taped oil fill tube out I put my AOS tester cap on and plugged the other end and blew into it, sure enough - not air tight. I'm thinking its a possibility that this leak could have thrown off my last AOS test into thinking it was within spec when it was not.
I'm going to smoke test today, possible give it a warm up drive to re-run the test.
Look ! no duct tape !
Bought a 2003 cabriolet a week ago. Got about 20 miles of quality time with my daughter before the alternator died. One by one all the warning lights came on. Made use of the wife's AAA card and put it on a flat bed and sent to the closest Porsche dealer. Waiting in the shipper's cue to get her home. Looking forward to working on it. Oil change and maybe send out a sample. New belt and alternator for sure. Needs a set of new rear tires too. I knew what I was getting into so not really surprised. Would rather be wrenching than doing yard work....
LOL never done that myself, best friend wife is a nurse, when folks die, they can't restock diapers, they have have to be thrown away, so instead we get them by the boatload. keep the garage floor and driveway spotless.
I did my first radiator clean-out today. It was daunting to remove the bumper cover but not too difficult. I�m glad I did it.
Clearly the previous owner had not done it for a long time. I took a full dustpan of junk out including leaves, rocks, dead bugs, feathers(!), part of a cigarette package, and a whole ATM receipt that was wedged behind the radiator. That doesn�t include all the dust and crap I blew out with the air compressor.
I finally decided to do this:
The top hole is completely open.
I got this far.(Took me about 20 minutes)
Decided I‘ll do the cutting and removal tomorrow evening.
I‘ll probably complete it then too.
Next comes going through the console to repair the other door.
That one is in much worse condition I’m pretty certain.
It’s the one that bothers me most!
The front windshield Frosts up so I can’t see during the summer.
I decided to do the easy one first.
Edited to add:
I just can’t sit and relax.
I just had to go do this real quick:
Now I’m inside the house relaxing...by fixing the door.
Yet Another Edit:
Blend door is back in the car.
I stopped short of reinstalling the battery, plastic cowling, and wiper arms.
Yeah, I can’t sit still
Time for a shower before I go back out and finish...and test drive...and start the other blend door...
It was. Hopefully I'll have it in the garage and on the mend this weekend. In the meantime I need to source a good jack and four jack stands. Probably my first purchases for this.
Ha! I'm sure there are others just like us.
I installed the plastic cowling this morning in my PJs.
Now I just need to install the battery and wiper arms.
The AC is back on in the garage this morning.
The AC circuit breaker kept blowing yesterday after 100+ hours of running with no issues.
What sucks is that breaker runs my deep freezer and garage lighting too.
When it finally cools off in the fall/winter, I'm going to run a dedicated 30A circuit to my AC like I did for my air compressor!
So hopefully it will be a comfortable(dry) 79 degrees in there tonight after I finish work and can get back to wrenching.
I plan on finishing this job and starting the other blend door repair.
I just had a company install a mini-split in my garage and they ran a dedicated 30A for it. Was a pain cuz the main panel was on the other side of the house. Took them almost 8 hours to run the electrical. Then next day they came out to do the install, 4 hours. Now it's comfy-cozy in there!
Yes. If you look closely at the photo, you�ll see the screws are removed from the condenser. I separated the condensers from the rads and used that old paint brush to clean out the big chunks trapped between them. Then I used an air compressor to blow out as much dust and dirt as I could from both the condensers and radiators.
Well, I hate to tell you this, but the alternator was likely shot before you bought it. Dealers often have car batteries die down and go bad on them if not properly cared for, but even good dealers put these cars on chargers all the time. So the battery was charged enough to last you 20 mins it seems.
Anyway, congrats on the purchase - and welcome!
This is how you repair no heat during the winter, and frosted windshield during the summer.
The picture you quoted was the heat/cold blend door.
Now I'll have heat during the winter...um, not a huge deal down here, but it can be nice at times to warm up a bit.
I started the vent blend door (defrost/dash/floor) blend door.
It is harder to do IMHO.
I had problems getting the foil tape and foam on the blend door.
Also, I only had access to one side and the edge of the blend door.
I have it covered as good as I could get it.
I stopped after I was almost ready to re-install the radio.
I found an unplugged wire, and I don't know where it goes.
It is a single brown/blue wire with a spade connection.
I think it is a ground to the ground spade on the radio chassis, but I'm not certain.
My wiring diagram says brown/blue is a speaker wire.
But this wire can't reach that far, so I doubt that's correct.
Anyone know what this wire could be for?
Nice work! HVAC work on cars is a true labor of love. Mine is in the phase of blowing bits foam seal out the vents. The doors still actually work. The last heater core I put in was on an RX7. The dash had to come out. I guess I loved that car. How does your windshield frost up in summer? Is your area so humid that the evaporator doesn't dry the air enough and it just re-condenses on the windshield?
There was no foam at all on the defrost/dash/floor blend door.
I guess that's why it had pretty much quit spitting foam at me.
Yeah, very humid in the Houston area.
If I drive my car first thing in the morning, in about 10 minutes my windshield looks like a steamed bathroom mirror.
I have two black socks filled with plastic beanbag filler that I toss on my dash during the summer months.
That's not going to work at the track later this month, so I finally decided to fix both blend doors.
Yes! I was waiting for the call-out! The best parking spots are in front of no parking signs.
Yes, Nor-Cal. This is Calaveras Reservior off of Calaveras Road. It's winding with hairpins and ups and downs. I wish I had a 3rd radiator. Fans were on the whole time at 95F outside.
Bentley book came today. Shipper says I should be seeing the car by the end of the week. Maybe some wrenching this weekend. It�s ok. I think I remember having to fiddle with the dome light when I picked it up. �As is, where is�. Yup. It�s ok, might even get it running well enough to take the family to Dairy Queen for ice cream. Well worth it.
That was my take when researching the wiring prior to my head unit swap. I saved this picture of where it plugs in. I'm guessing by the green arrow, I stole it from a Pelican how to.
My car came with an aftermarket head unit and this wire detached. My alarm makes the double chirp indicating an error when I lock it, and my Foxwell shows that switch as �open� with the car locked.
My 99 does not have the bracket shown in this Pelican photo, so I don�t know what to attach it to. I think it just needs to make a ground connection. Anyone have a suggestion?
I found this thread that I saved. My Continental was PNP with no issues so I never had to go back and look at any of my saved research until now.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ith-alarm.html
I think you�re right.
I disconnected my armrest storage wires a couple of years ago because I
WANTED
my alarm to beep when I set it.
So I�ll leave the wire disconnected.
I finished the repair.
Looking forward to a test drive early tomorrow morning.
@SoCal911t
I�m thinking of getting a Continental head unit, too. I can�t figure out of these have a line (pre-amp) output or just speaker level output. Are you driving speakers from the head unit or using an amp? If using an amp, did you need an adapter?
I bought the 7416 and it just has speaker level out. The place I bought it has a
pigtail
that made it plug and play with the stock wiring. And just an FYI, in spite of what the website says, the 7416 model does not have Bluetooth. I bought a $9.00 Bluetooth module from Ebay that I'm going to try on the Continental and I also may just put the stock Becker back in.
Bluetooth module on left, 3.5mm direct connect mini plug on right.
Its the factory Porsche (read: Thule) bike carrier. I have a pair of racks that also require taking off the front wheel, but for ease of use this rack is perfect. Lots of looks, especially in the mountains!
Continental makes a ton of different radio models and it gets confusing. If you go to their site you can see the TR7416U is just USB, but the TR7416U
B
model includes both USB and Bluetooth.
It would be nice if these were more widely distributed in the US.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20191006_180629_63ebf9a788c70724c0f7bfb3a4fa425ea6e04399.jpg
Wow, thanks for pointing that out, it turns out I'm a complete maroon. The unit doesn't ship with a manual and the one I downloaded was for the TR74416U not the U
B
. I found the
correct
manual and now have the Bluetooth functioning.
I had also considered Blaupunkt's reissue of the Bremen SQR 46. It is more expensive but also has a lot more features. The faux cassette door hides a USB, SD card slot and an Aux plug.
IIRC, the pinouts are the same as the Becker with the exception of telephone mute.
I�m glad it worked out for you! I was looking at the Blaupunkt too, but I really want a CD player. My car has the CD storage option, which is the worlds dumbest CD rack, but adds to the period charm of the car. Plus, I like my kids to see how we listened to music in the �olden days� of the �90s.
Now that you have Bluetooth working, how do you like the unit overall? Also, did you have any issues fitting the pigtail behind the big head unit in the dash?
Did Blaupunkt make an 8-track player? Now that would be the cat's ***....
I like the feature on the Bremen. Hiding modern functions behind the 'cassette' door is clever.
Audio is on my list too. I like Pandora through the work van, so I�m looking for something similar for the 996. In the meantime, the shipper called and I should see the car by 10 or so tomorrow. Picked up new battery. Paid the Porsche tax for a oil filter and housing, as well as an air filter and oil drain plug and seal because it was convenient. New hood struts and alternator are here too so hopefully Sunday I get to work on it and more test drive. New rear tires are in the works.
I haven't driven the car with the Bluetooth working yet but I did have a chance to play around with it some more. You can advance the songs via the head unit which is nice.
I didn't have any issues with the pigtail fitting but I did remove the HVAC module to make fishing everything in easier.
I'm pretty sure they did.
Today I changed out the plugs and coils...I am very sore and very tired. I feel grateful that I am part acrobat and have what some might consider "little girl hands..." and thankfully "little girl forearms". I did not need to remove anything but the coils and plugs, no muffler, no brackets, only removed the wheels once I had the rear end up on stands. The plugs that were in there were Beru's and looked to be very worn out and maybe original? The coils definitely looked to be original. The car is a 2001 Carrera with 51K miles but it is still a nearly 20 year old car none-the-less. I took the day off, took my time and watched a few videos ahead of time. I am also blessed in having many, many tools including all sorts of different extensions and ratchets in both 3/8 and 1/4 drive, this was most helpful. Taking my time and breaking for lunch and coffee I would say this job took me about 5 hours or so and it was well worth it. The throttle response is much crisper and I can feel a difference when pulling up through the revs, all the way up through about 6.5/7K. I do not have any maintenance history on this car and bought it two months ago with 49K miles on it. So far I am very pleased with it, this is my second Porsche (we still have a 2006 Cayman S). I've added a K&N air filter, a firmed up intake hose and an undersized crank pulley. Next up will be upgraded engine mounts (I am guessing these are the original ones too) and then I will start going through the steering/suspension gear and changing out bushings/tie-rods/boots/etc as needed. This car is a hoot to drive hard and it's a Cabriolet so I do enjoy the top down as well. Anyway, if you plan to change coils and plugs be ready for a few moments of frustration but good rewards when done!
Got as far as replacing the frunk struts, removing the old battery and getting the lid off the air cleaner to find a nine year old air filter. The oil level is down. Had a couple of beers with the wife in the lawn chair and called it quits until tomorrow morning. The alternator is next.
Yep, did all three. Took forever as my magnet for bolts came in handy too many times to count. Life goes on, as does the 911. 101800 miles later. AOS was in terrible shape, tons of oil in intake plenums: at least the left side. Starter cable unknown if it made the difference on hot startup issues. Oil filler tube.....long time coming.
Removed old alternator this morning and it wasn�t too bad, new one went in much easier. Changed the serpentine belt. Had the old alternator tested to confirm suspicions and it was failed. Changed air filter. Oil was certainly black and nasty. Did find a couple of metal chips in oil filter. I�ll order up an oil analysis kit. Engine lid strut is weak too. Charging problem solved. New battery went in.
I just bought the car a couple of weeks back. It made it about 20 miles from the dealer and one by one all the warning lights came on. Porsche dealer said alternator was gone and I agree. Had parts store test it to make sure. I�m also adding a battery tender this afternoon.
New cabin filter finally arrived. The old filter was filled with acorns and crap..i vacummed it out and put it back and waited a couple days for new one to arrive. Freshhh air please.
Last week was the 40th anniversary of the release of Caddyshack so I stuck a Bushwood Country Club sticker on the window and took it for a drive.
The very stealthy Tarett Engineering.
[QUOTE=SoCal911t;16832621]Last week was the 40th anniversary of the release of Caddyshack so I stuck a Bushwood Country Club sticker on the window and took it for a drive.
The very stealthy Tarett Engineering.
[/QUOT
Poway?
Took my 2000 C4 Cab for short, relaxed and casual drive today.
Almost ran into a woman/dog who were in my blind spot while executing a left hand turn. Car stopped but I still think the brakes are "too soft."
Thank goodness, I didn't hit them.
I didn't miss them by much and I was only "rolling" thru the interestion at the time. Time delay from pedal press to stopping is WAY TOO long IMO!!!
Gotta do something about this. It's bugging the heck outta me and it's a safety issue to boot!
Got a pair of rear 18 inch P zeros installed to replace the very bald and probably 17 year old tires. Registered and new plates. Ordered a set of Beru coils and some Iridium plugs for this weekend. Will get underneath and start looking around at motor mounts and suspension pieces.
Looking at the Carfax, I'm guessing 2011. Says two tires mounted, so guessing fronts, but who knows. Are date codes easy to figure out? Reading further, looks like someone had brake pads changed, so maybe there's hope I'll pass inspection the first time.
Unpacked the low mile 996TT shocks and springs going in my 103k mileage C4S with tired shocks and mounts. Major surgery is underway. Trans and diff being removed to go to California Motorsports for rebuilding, these shocks, springs and related hardware going in. Need to buy a new cat or sport cat setup. I guess I'm keeping her 🤪
UOA received on Monday and finally posted. As my Thai colleagues would say, "sorry for late". @islaTurbine, thanks for the bump,
It looks really good for what I saw in the filter and hear after the engine is warm. Maybe I'm looking too closely at the filter.
Attached is an audio file of what the engine sounds like. I took this audio on with my phone, placing it on the ground under the exhaust manifold where it exits the head, with the microphone pointing out.
The internet troll in me wants to write, "I think it's just a lifter" to drive everyone crazy. But I know that's not the case, so I won't. When I discussed this with Jake a couple of months ago, after checking spark plug torque and a belt-less noise check, It's been labeled as early onset bore scoring. Maybe that's what the results are showing. You can hear it, but you can't see it, yet...
So the good news is the engine doesn't seem to be ready to break to pieces so I'll likely be able to drive it until it gets sent off to rehab. There is no bad news because rehab was already in the plan! Now it's time to focus on other things, like the 94000 mile suspension...
Drove it home after the indy changed the AOS on my 2002 C2 cab. The hardtop, bike rack and bike were pretty nice to have since the indy is 42 km away with limited public transportation. The new AOS seems to work and the crankcase pressure (vacuum) increased from -16,1(!) to -4,7 inches af water, measured with my home made slack tube manometer
I've had my '02 C2 since 2008 when I bought it with 32k miles. It has 62.5k miles on it now. This place has been instrumental in my ability to perform most all work myself and successfully diagnose and fix issues. Over the years I have performed the following work, mostly myself, and almost all preemptive: PSS9s, with new x73 strut mount bearings @ 45kmiles, ROW anti sway bars, set to Euro height, FVD Brombacher wheel spacers all around, new tie rods, new water pump (Porsche) & 165F Tstat, coolant tank to latest rev & cap, coolant flush, major underside hoses replaced, AOS, new oil filler tube, new O-rings for intake manifold and water cooled oil cooler, new serp belt, new pulleys, new spin on filter adapter (use M1-107 Mobil 1 filter), oil procedure recommended by L&N for Driven oil use, Porsche skid plate, Guardian Metal detection System, (original group buy) after having magnetic drain plug since purchased (never any metal detected), new bottom sump plate (when inspection done for Guardian), new oil pressure sensor, headlight switch, ignition switch, GT brake scoops, 997 shifter mech with transmission side short shift kit, drain/refill gearbox, Fister muffler mod (all SS) with change of all exhaust bolts to SS, new motor mounts (Reim), front rotors and Akebono pads, replace plastic coolant hose connector @ intake with brass, spring replacement for clutch pedal, and most recently, the past week, another oil & filter change, new 997 coils, and NGK Platinum plugs, ATE rear rotors and Akebono pads, full brake system flush (inc clutch) from ATE 200 Blue to Gold. Only work fdone at Porsche specialist was new clutch, RMS & IMS bearing to L&N hybrid at 50k miles. That's all off the top of my head. There may be more I have just forgotten over the last 12 years. I didn't include non performance engine stuff like new PS2 tires, new speakers, shift ****, frunk lid protector, 3rd new AGM battery, passenger window mechanism, XPEL on lights and front bumper, new windshield, auto dim rearview mirror, garage door opener switch & mod, etc.
Installed Rennline tunable engine mounts today and the difference if very good. I had read that some folks experienced too much vibration and/or cabin noise after doing so but for me it's well worth doing. The originals were pretty extruded, after looking at pictures of new OEM mounts I would guess they had dropped (extruded) to about twice the original length based upon the rubber mount-to-mount housing measurement. I've attached photos of my originals (2001 Carrera Cabriolet) and a new OEM mount (picture snipped from Pelican parts online ad page). I also included a snipped picture of the Rennline replacements I used. I went with what appears to be their "softest" mounts, the yellow bushings for street use. The others are blue for "sport" and red for "race". I can definitely tell there is improved ability for shifting more directly into gear, especially from 1st to 2nd. I do feel a slightly greater amount of vibration but it's more of a "higher pitch" vibe compared to the "sloppy" vibe that was there from the old mounts. Overall I am happy with them, the originals were definitely ready to be replaced. Installation was very easy and straight forward, did not even need to jack up the car (chassis) at all, just used my low profile floor jack and a board to support (ease up) the engine. All the bolts were very accessible. Brake pads all around tomorrow, I did a brake flush shortly after I got the car a couple of months ago and though there's a little bit of life left in these pads they are getting pretty dusty and down to the end of their best usage life. Will be sure to measure the rotors, though they looked fine and surface them a bit during the job as well. Now it's time to head out for a drive!
Replaced my Headlight switch tonight. Nice to have low-beams!
Oil change tomorrow as the car has been sitting for quite awhile.
Need to put some miles on the car to get enough memory stored to smog it.
Stuffed the kids into the back seats and took the family out to dinner for the first time. Getting used to the controls and listening for strange noises. Ran fine and will be back in the garage tomorrow with it up on jack stands doing the ignition and looking around for issues.
I just bought a C4S and thought �listening for strange sounds� was funny because as this is my first Porsche, all the noises seem strange! I keep asking my self �does that sound right?� 🤣
That took me some time, as well. Noises sound different because it is a different engine than what I am used to and it's hanging on the wrong end of the car right behind the rear seats. Now after six years and a reconstructed engine I am good...!
I went for an early morning high speed run.
My 21 year old son went for a ride along with me.
I surprised him with an impromptu three pedal driving lesson.
He did quite well.
At least he now knows how to drive a manual.
He said he might buy a beater to practice with.
I feel like I�ve done my part to �Save the Manuals!�
My GoPro failed to record any of the driving.
I have Harry�s Lap Timer and Track Addict, but tried to start it manually so I could run Waze and apparently failed to hit record correctly.
I discovered that I"m too old to work on this car. I changed the plugs and coils on the driver side but couldn't remove one of the nuts in the muffler bracket on the passenger side. I had read that some people have changed the plugs without removing the mufflers so I gave it a try. I was able to change the two forward plugs and coils but there is no way to get the rear-most passenger side plug. I went back to trying to remove the last muffler nut by spraying with PB Blaster, waiting, trying again - rinse, repeat for 3 hours. It's the bottom one so not much room to work or to get leverage. Meanwhile my vertigo kept kicking in and my muscles kept cramping and I kept misplacing tools. I'm bringing my car in for engine-out major service tomorrow - IMSB, UAOS, Chain guides...and now a plug and coil, an oil filler tube, and the updated AOS coolant connection - parts that I have on hand but no longer want to deal with.
All proactive maintenance. The IMSB is due for replacement. The AOS is still working perfectly but is 20 years old. My car is a Tip so it requires engine out for both.
makes sense big job. 6 is the threshold ussuslly..but can be monitored for sometime if it stays in the 6 to 8 range without big fluctuations...esp if your not throwing codes.
No codes, no issues. The later versions of the pads are made of tougher materials so I figured might as well bite the bullet while doing the other things.
I just finished swapping out the plugs for some Denso Iridiums and a new set of Beru coils. Got it up in jack stands, laid down a moving blanket to lay on and did it without removing any exhaust. Took a look at some fluid leaks and dented tubing underneath where someone wasn�t as careful as they should have been with the jack or jack stands. All six Bosch plugs looked about the same. All six coils had cracks in them. See how well it runs after I take a shower. It wasn�t that bad, just took some time and patience. The borescope lost connectivity with the phone before I started the second bank. Hard to maneuver and look at the phone. Resolution is better than my Milwaukee. Kind of handy to have a small flexible light.
I've been noticing the muscle cramping as I've gotten older too. My legs have gotten cramps since I was a teenager but now muscles in my back, hips and hands will cramp for the weirdest reasons!
I did my plugs, coils and tubes a few months ago. I was able to get the plugs out and back in on 5 & 6 without removing the muffler. It wasn't easy but I did it. I have a 1999 with an MT so there might be less crap in that area. The heat shield bolt in that area isn't fun either. What was really a pain was getting the tubes out! All my coils, plugs and tubes looked good so I made a half hearted attempt to remove the tubes from 5 but ended up leaving the originals in 5 & 6. No oil on the plugs and I wasn't up for it.
The ones towards the back of the car, specifically the passenger side were the toughest. Had to bend the drivers side shield to get it out. Biggest impediments are my eyesight and my bad shoulders.
If I could have removed that last muffler bolt it wouldn't have been too bad. I wasted so much effort and time on that and that's what did me in. It was bad enough 10 years ago when I was 56.
I'm with you! I have 3 pairs of glasses: distance with computer (arm length) bifocal for driving and biking, computer and reading focus bifocal for just about everything except biking and driving, and one distance and close bifocal that I rarely use. Drives me crazy to have glasses on the end of my nose to keep things in focus.
So it runs just fine with the new coils and plugs. No difference really other than the satisfaction of dealing with one more maintenance item. Next up on the easy things is the rear strut. Then considering the water pump, thermostat, coolant flush thing or maybe trans fluid thing. May spend some time cleaning up some of the fluid leaks underneath and adding some dye to see where its coming from.
I know how you feel.
I enjoy working on all kinds of cars, including my 996, but wonder how much longer that is going to be possible.
I used to do all my own home electrical/network cabling/TV cable/POTS work.
I've run lots of extra(and extended) electrical circuits for my house.
But a couple of years ago decided that my days of climbing through the attic were coming to an end.
That was about the time that I started having problems with vertigo.
I now have an electrician that I use for any work that involve the attic.
He's coming out tomorrow to install a dedicated circuit for my garage's "portable" AC unit.
I've added additional lighting in the garage(my eyes need more lighting these days) and now the AC unit occasionally trips the breaker.
He added a dedicated 30A circuit to my compressor 2 years ago when it was doing the same thing.
It's tough paying someone to do something that I know I could do myself...but when I see him comedown from the attic tomorrow all sweaty and I'm sitting there sipping a nice cold brew...I think I'll be ok with it.
Back in the "day" when I didn't have any money but was a poor high school/college student and young married person, I did my own work to save $ but I NEVER enjoyed it and frankly wasn't that good at it.
I will still turn a screw driver, hex key, wrench or socket when it is easy and more convenient for me to do so BUT I will avoid the job if it would be easier to just let somebody else do it. Among the things I will still do are: swap out tires/wheels (I've got a compressor and air impact wrench) and any relatively easy part swap out that only requires a screw driver and or a wrench/socket.
I replaced the right visor in my 996 which only required a hex socket, replaced the ashtray w/a an open tray that only required a screw driver and hex socket and replaced thge awful wheels/tires that came w/the car w/Carrerra II wheels/tires that I drove 800 miles RT to get in Riverside, CA, but I would NEVER bother to change the plugs, oil or anything else in my 996.
That I'd leave to the professionals, who IMO deserve the $ they are paid (if they do it "right") in order to save me the time/trouble to do it myself.
No shame to anyone who pays others to do it for them. It's the only way I can afford to own this car, doing some of the work myself. I'm an electrician, generator service guy, and gas licensed, but not terribly fond of plumbing or carpentry. I have people for that.
I need to take a visit to my eye doctor, because more recently the distance vision has degraded. The typical age related close up vision loss is there, but now reading street signs is getting tough so it's time to invest in some better glasses. Thank goodness for smart phones and the cameras that allow me to magnify things so I can read labels.
Dodged a bullet.
Actually it was a 17 lb container of laundry detergent. I went to get something out of the garage when I got home from work today and found this. When I was inspecting the car for damage I noticed white dust over everything and figured out it must have been an earthquake. It was.
The dust was from the ceiling drywall. I was driving when it hit and never felt a thing. I'm not sure how it got from the shelf over the washer/dryer to that close to the front of the car.
Magnitude 5.1 Baja earthquake felt across San Diego County
It's tough being on the back nine but I have no complaints. Most of my stuff still works as intended. I have always done everything in my house - electrical, plumbing, carpentry, painting etc. The few times I let my wife talk me into having someone do the work I regretted it. No one cares as much as you do about how a job is done in your home. I tend to over-build everything. My biggest handicap is the vertigo. That complicates everything, especially with this car since so much work needs to be done on your back. Getting old sucks, but it beats the alternative.
As I used to tell my father, getting old ain't for sissy's. Sigh. Now I am within a couple of years of when I used to tell him that.
I have occasional bouts with Vertigo. Found that if I do the Eply maneuver periodically I can keep it in check. I also just purchased a lift so that I can continue to comfortably work on cars. Should have bought one 30 years ago but I was always too cheap.
Sounds like a good plan. I'm going to try the maneuver. When it was first suggested to me my vertigo was so bad I didn't want to risk it. A lift would be good to have but it would be a challenge since my garage is detached and has no power.
I first used the manuever when I couldn't get out of bed without hitting the floor and had to lay on my left side or watch the room spin. I did the manuever twice and all spinning stopped immediately. All was normal the next day. Did that a few times over the years but now as soon as I sense even a little dizziness I do the maneuver so it doesn't get that bad.
The manuever is not fun. You will get vertigo while you are doing it but if done right it will clear it up..
Can't help you on the power unless you want to run a generator for the short time you are raising the lift.
For those in earthquake country, I saw a picture of a Porsche covered in paint. They had built an overhead storage unit in the garage and stored a bunch of paint cans up there. Earthquake hit and knocked the paint cans off the overhead shelf unit onto the car parked below. Ouch! Moral to this story, look at what is stored over and around your car in the garage.
The Eply maneuver doesn't work for me.
Even doing it 4 times a day for a week didn't help last year.
After 2 weeks it started to go away on its own.
I still have a slight case from time to time.
I think it is triggered by seasonal allergies.
After Hurricane Harvey, my plan for escaping flooding on my 996 is my QuickJack.
I didn't flood, but since each flooding event has caused waters to get higher and higher in my area, I'm glad that I have close to 24" extra height for my 911.
All my other vehicles(06 Mustang & minivan) can drown.
So, today my car went from this:
To this:
Oz Alleggerita
18x8.5 with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S in 235/40-R18 in front
18x11 with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S in 285/35-R18 in rear
My question, is should I go center capless or go Porsche caps?
I also recent received my Rennline PC925 mount with a free, and „good“ tested Odyssey PC925T battery.
I took my 996 with her new shoes out for some exercise.
At speeds above the top speed of a 2020 Toyota Camry TRD, my old 996 handled superbly.
All the talk about fragile engines, I needed some spirited driving to help remind me why I own a Porsche 911.
I could own a brand new Toyota Camry for how much I’ve spent on my 996.
But I wouldn’t have had that huge grin this afternoon.
If my engine blows, I‘ll send my 996 off to FSI, and buy a beater to drive for the next year.
Porsche caps!
Looks really good.
I was going to post that I put on new front tires on my tiny 17" rims. And the tires are not terribly remarkable. But seeing the change this makes has made me budget an upgrade to 18" wheel and PS4's next year after the engine rebuild.
"The Smile" or the "Huge Grin" is the number one reason to own these cars.
I don't think the engines are delicate. I think they are old, and being high performance engines, require stricter maintenance that a Prius engine. Watching the boards and the history of ownership, it seems the engines with problems are all cast-offs likely not owned by an enthusiast. All the long term owner engines seem to be fine. All the engines rebuilt by enthusiasts seem fine.(excluding racers) We see a disproportionate number of engine fails because the cast off cars are bought by enthusiasts who come to these boards looking for information. I'm one of these guys.
All the failure modes, aside from IMSB, are root caused to preventive maintenance. The problem with the PM lists are all the little valves and sensors that typically have no call-out for lifetime. The older an engine, the more likely these are to fail, usually at the wrong time. I'm willing to put up with this annoyance.
Sorry for all the talk. I'll go drive now. The coffee shop is only 1.5 miles away, but it will take me 10 miles on the back road.
If you don't have "The Smile" when you get out of your 996, you aren't driving it correctly!
I added Dupont garage door insulation to my old garage door.
When I had to replace it due to it cracking after we had some foundation repair, I ordered a pre-insulated garage door.
It took 3 weeks to receive it, because apparently they're rare way down here and no one stocks them.
I also had 18" of insulation blown in over the garage a few years ago.
With my AC(and new dedicated circuit installed yesterday) the garage is currently 78F.
Not bad considering it is currently 99F and HUMID outside.
Thanks!
I no longer need my 10mm spacers.
They stick out further than the old BBS Carrera II wheels with 10mm spacers.
I think it's just about spot-on.
Yes, the wheels did.
I need to remove the tools and spare tire in the front and go take it for another drive.
I haven't installed the battery yet.
I need to get my car inspected soon, and will probably wait until after that so it will pass emissions.
Not because of the battery, but because of the non-passed emissions tests due to disconnecting the battery.
I like the non-cap look.
I think it looks meaner.
But I also like the Porsche caps.
Sounds like several others like the Porsche caps, so I'll keep them when driving on the street.
For autox and track days, I'll remove the Porsche caps and look mean.
It looks good. Rained last night and water was beaded up nicely this morning. Took a while to apply, small applicator, and only one panel at a time. Thankfully, Cab 911 doesn't have much painted surface area.
Refurbish my head light lenses, really wakes up the appearance.
I used the 3M kit. Had to get some 320 grit to start. And a lot of elbow grease
to get past the yellowing and surface corrosion though. Not like YouTube!
The initial 500 grit disks must have been for garage queens. Where done after
about 2 square inches, worked ok as 320 follow ons though.
Seals disintegrated though, consistency of black tar mostly. I could hardly
remove the remnants from my hands with remover.
The D-Style 1/4 x 1/4 press on rubber window/door seal, with the hole in the center,
worked really well. Hope it lasts, but cheap, like $6 at Menard�s, and really easy to replace.
Looks nearly stock.
Excellent Covid project.
The D-Style 1/4 x 1/4 press on rubber window/door seal, with the hole in the center,
worked really well. Hope it lasts, but cheap, like $6 at Menard�s, and really easy to replace.
Looks nearly stock.
Excellent Covid project.[/QUOTE]
What was the seal for?
Finished painting the center console and a few trim items. I wanted to clean up some areas that were chipped up and add some contrast. Found some loose change, a functioning aux cord, and a lot of mice poop.
Pulled the console out, cleaned up, sanded and plastidipped black. Now that I have done it I think I can get the console out in less than 10 minutes. Being that it is 20 year old plastic I really took my time.
I like how it turned out and think the side air vents and center horseshoe are next. I know some won't like the black but I am happy with the look. For me there was too much gray.
Nice ^^ I'll have to try this. I pulled my litronics off bc the recent down pour caused a serious amount of condensation inside the housing. Hoping the seals are just bad
Decided to take it out since the weather was clear enough for a spirited run. Was going into 3rd on an on-ramp and the linkage busted out leaving me stuck in what felt like 3rd. Schnell short throw kit. Tossing this and getting something different. I know 997 is popular but I've heard the throw is identical to stock 996.
Tex - those look great!! I would go capless .... funny i have the same set of wheels and am trying to decide on tires for track usage but that can also be street driven to and from events
thought abt R888R - but my shop suggested they are quite loud for street, and nitto NT 05 recommended as a cost-effective alternate.
the Michelin would be another option.
im currently running conti extreme contacts on a different wheelset, and they will soon be beyond their useful track life.
have you had michelins before ?
fwiw - i also replaced stock 99 996 shifter w 997 stock. Its a bit shorter throw - enough to be able to be felt (in a good way) and seems crisper to me.
i also replaced brake ducts w 997 GT3 ducts.
the 996 seems very happy on the track for sure.
Thanks for the input. The stock shifter felt like the throw was long and not very connected which is why I went with the Schnell kit. Can't believe it popped out on what was not a very aggressive gear change. Oh well.
Yes, I had/have Michelin Pilot Sport 4S(225/40R18 & 285/35R18) on my Carrera II wheels in my signature.
They have almost 20K miles on them and the rears need replacing.
The fronts are probably good for a few more K.
Prior to these, I had a couple of sets of Pilot Super Sport tires on my BMW 135i and really liked them.
The PS4S wear a little better than the PSS did.
These wheels are 18x8.5" & 18x11" so I could go a little larger in back, but Michelin doesn't make a 295/35R18.
Currently I have 235/40R18 & 285/35R18.
Thanks!!!
I hope you enjoyed your vacation.
Finally got a chance to get out of the house and run an errand...and stopped on the way back at one of my favorite photo locations 1/4 mile from my house.
Here are some better pictures of my new wheels and the car in general:
They're a pain to photograph.
You need lots of light, or else it is a black blob.
I've had silver wheels powder coated before for my BMW 135i, but then decided they were too hard to photograph.
I prefer almost any other color, but I couldn't pass these up.
They only had 1000 miles on them and the offer was too good to refuse!
I've been thinking I might Plastidip them, but now the black is starting to grow on me so I doubt I'll change them.
I'll just have to make sure there's lots of daylight when I take photos.
I have a black monochrome front Porsche badge...hmmm....
Took my 996 to the body shop to get the insurance estimate to replace the blown-out driver's window and resultant paint damage from a drive yesterday.
A passing car picked up a rock that totally blew out my window, glass everywhere inside, a number of dings in the paint on the outside door, rear quarter panel, clamshell, and spoiler. And maybe more when they clean the car and look more closely. And remove the door card and clean out the glass. And remove the drivers/passenger seats to clean up glass pieces. Thank goodness for safety glass!
At least the drive was great fun, except for the massive lightning and rain storm that cut the trip short. Also learned that my rear tires are worn down to the point where hydroplaning can, and will, occur in a heavy downpour..
Crazy weather. From 100+F to 59F back to 110F in 45 minutes of driving.m Such is life in the N AZ mountains.
Been waiting to post this for an effin week.
Today - I finished the UAOS install. For me, the AOS portion of the install was miserable. The U part was not too bad and more an exercise in hose and cable routing than difficult.
Felt good to put the motor back on its mounts.
Tomorrow I will do a nut and bolt once over and see how she works.
Thanks Aaron ! Should be good for 9/1. Looking forward to it.
ETA... UAOS stuff done - car is back on the ground and the hood is closed.... for now ! 15 mile test loop yesterday went well and the car is driving great. Will take it on a rip tonight and then wash all the oily fingerprints off her.
Gotta send a big shoutout to Skip (Porschetech - UAOS creator) he has been really helpful throughout the process of getting the UAOS install done and some trouble shooting on my particular setup.
Thank you Skip !
Completed my first oil change on my own this weekend. It went smoothly and I collected a sample for my first oil analysis from Blackstone. I�ll be curious to see what that shows.
I have an extra filter and will probably do one more of the cartridge style before making the switch to the screw type. Admitting to using channelocks to tighten the plastic housing... No leaks there, though some elsewhere I've been too busy today to jack it up and wipe down the leaks plus add dye to see where its coming from. I'll get to it. It's running well and I'm enjoying it.
Hadn't diven the 2000 C4 Cab for about 2 weeks and was itching to do so.
The sky looked relatively clean at the start but then got really BAD. Drove about a 100 mile loop w/the top down between Carquinez Straight to Livermore to San Ramon and back via Vasco/580/680/4. Wore a N95 equivalent mask the whole way.
Checked the mask filter when I got home and it was visibily GRAY. The filter did what it was supposed to do was block pollutants but the visual confirmation of how BAD the pollution due to the fires in the Bay Area was a reminder that it is now just as important to wear a mask for pollution protect as it is to avoid speading/catching C-19.
For anyone who is looking for a better mask, I highly recommend the O2 Canada that I use. Lots of pros to it and no cons. It uses an N95 equivalent filter, has a hard plaster shell that's easily to clean, uses medical grade silicon to seal the mask to the face, soft rubber ear straps that are very comfotable and has an adjustable neck strap that allows you to hang the mask from your neck when not in use.
See:
https://o2canada.com/
Actually designed for use to filter out smog pollutants but also relatively effective for C-19. A little expensive but you get what you pay for. Far better than cloth or surgical masks, neck gaiters, banadanas or whatever, except for N95 masks (w/o vents) that are very effective but inconvenient to put on/take off and we are being "shamed' for buying any because doing so supposedly will make fewer available to medical and other essential health personnel.
The O2 Canada mask is the answer to these problems.
Disclaimer: I have NO financial interest in O2 Canada and am only a consumer of their products.
Ever since I had the car it bothered me that there was cloth like tape hanging out of the seam between the A Pillar cover and the dash, but was too lazy to do anything about it. The last few days a wire was starting to slide out of the windshield header trim panel, and I noticed a gap in between that panel and the windshield. I decided to deal with both issues today. I removed the screws for the sun visor and was able to pull the wire out. I was surprised to see a telephone like wire with a RJ11 connector. I then removed the a pillar trim and the wire continued to there. I then removed the lower kick panel and there is were the wire terminated, and was connected to a small box that was tapped into one of the fuses in the fuse box. I never noticed that there was a wire coming from the fuse box where the wire was wrapped around the fuse blade to tap for power. Once I removed the device and associated wires, I fixed the cloth tape and put everything back together. Good as new now!
Here is a photo of what I found. I am guessing this is for a radar detector or a hands free bluetooth device. It has two RJ11 plugs named Accessory and Main Unit and has a power line and a ground line. If anyone know what it is or wants it, let me know.
Evening - wash and 10QTS of XP9 and new air filter.
I'll get the oil level finalized tomorrow and the car is ready for next track day 9/1.
And that completes this round of maint - UAOS, air filter, serp belt, oil and filter and nut and bolt on 4 corners.
Took a 80 mile drive and changed the oil today. The old girl is happy. Took a sample and got it in the mail. I impressed myself...no Exxon Valdez drama at all this time, for a change.
Removed the clutch pedal helper spring in my C4S.
I knew something was wrong with the pedal..
The almost new clutch (5000kms) was not slipping as I did few tests.
Not that difficult to depress but the return feeling was sometimes weird at the top.
The spring is broken in 3 pieces... the 3 parts were all wedge inside each other when I removed it.
Just removing the helper spring assembly makes the clutch feel really good even if it still a little bit stiffer then a Honda. Control is easy.
I just hope the pedal was always returning correctly and didnt damage the clutch...
Tried to go for a drive today, but ran into some road blocks. Too many fires ahead I guess. Eyes burned from the smoke when I got out of the car. Our town registered greater than 315 ppm PM2.5 today. Woohoo!
Then the apparent camber of that rear tire bugged me. But it seems to be from the uneven surfaces of the road.
Seems to be OK. Last alignment was -1.8
Previously I posted the 2003 Cobalt C2 aerokit I purchased pre-covid off BAT and drove it home from Dallas TX. Shortly after getting it home with no issues - for general maintenance, did clutch/flywheel, IMS Solution, UAOS, RS engine mounts and Powerflex transmission mount.
The work I just completed was due to needing to clean the radiators for the first time since purchase, and due to the passenger side fan resistor failing. The resistor from Amazon (two pack to have a spare) installed and mounted in the factory clip. I also purchased a good used third radiator assembly (radiator, mounting frame and rubber duct) off EBay for $160 ($268 TOTAL with purchase of new hoses, clamps, bolts, coolant) and installed it. Also while bumper cover was off, installed Rennline grill screens and finished with Girodisc rotors and Akebono Euro brake pads.
-Tom
Yes, the rear wheels need to come off. I adjusted mine a year or so ago. The cable didn't need adjusting. All i needed to do was to adjust the shoe to drum spacing. It's a standard drum brake adjustment. Rotate the adjuster until you can't turn the rotor, then back off some clicks until there is no resistance from the shoes on the drum. Once I did this, the hand brake takes 5 clicks.
Nice underbody, the car looks well taken care off. You're missing an underbody panel that redirects air to the transmission. Maybe you already know. Maybe it's not that effective, many 996s don't have it. It seams to be lost on the majority.
part# 99650452
902
Pelican shows that part as a 3.6l gt2 part but i guess it might work on others. I have always thought the tray ended abruptly on my y2k but non of the pet drawings from porsche include that part for me.
All 996 Porsches came with it. For some reason during the service history people take them off and never put them back on but its part of the aerodynamic package in our cars. There are a few for 30 dollars on ebay.
Getting ready for my first road trip with it this weekend. Replaced my crazed/cracked tail light with a used oem replacement. I also re-located the climate controls/installed cup-holder retrofit, washed the car, checked the fluids, and let leatherique soak into the seats for two days to clean and condition the leather; The stuff works wonders.
Thanks Moe. You learn something everyday. I guess, now that you mention it, there does seem to be tabs and/or slots along that trailing edge of the last panel. I have never studied it very much. I am usually distracted by looking at all the suspension doodads under there. I will check into what it looks like and maybe pick one up if affordable.
Just checked Auto Atlanta. The base 996 part number is
R99650412901. It is called “Cover Rear”. The 99650452902 part is called “Air Duct” in the 2003-05 GT3 and the 2001-05 Turbo/GT2. The parts look the same in the diagram.
Yes, but digging out of the hole at work is my next challenge! Made it to the track this weekend, unfortunately found my front rotors had cracking from the cross drilled holes. Made it three sessions then the vibration was too much. Put in an order for slotted rotors and hope to be back on the track soon!
The 996 504 129 01 is the undertray for all NA cars and the Tiptronic Turbo.
The manual gearbox Turbos & GT2's get a different undertray with NACA ducts to blow air on the G50 gearbox (996 504 129 03).
I can't remember the 996 504 529 02 "Air Duct" on my Turbo although I had it apart last year and it should have been there.
I really do enjoy the feel of the Schnell, but popping out of the linkage on a relatively normal shift is irritating and I don't really want to deal with that again.
There's another short throw kit on Suncoast for ~$450 but haven't really seen much about it other than the handful of reviews on SC's page. I wonder if I can give the 997 a quick test and if it's not up to par send it back and order the other kit.
Cool, I live 15 min away just over the MA boarder... I'll be at the track again on the 1st - happy to meet up any weekend though. Some fun roads in the area.
It shouldn�t pop out unless something is wrong. I have a short shifter in mine. I tried a 997 shifter briefly, because I remember liking the shifting experience in my 997.2. I really disliked the stock 997 shifter compared to the 996 shifter with B&M short shift kit installed. I think if you never had a short shifter installed, it will feel fine, but if you did have one it�s hard to go back to stock.
I agree completely. This is the first time I've had a linkage pop out in any of my vehicles and it's been fine for the better part of the last 5k miles with similar driving habits.
The feel of a short throw is always going to be preferred over stock, Going to give it a shot either way. Worst case return it or sell it, no biggie.
I just returned from a spirited drive into SF. Top down, temperature went down to 52 outside when I went over the GG Bridge!
Heater, fog lamps and everything worked perfectly. I need to find more excuses to go into the city...
A lot of great driving roads out there once you get out of the city! My last visit in March, before Covid, I rented myself a 991 and went to have some fun in the hills. Going up and down Mt. Tam was a blast!
Is that zbombs car?
Oh, I see that it is.
@zbomb
, I'd like to see some more pictures(or a video) of how it looks with what looks like an entire console delete.
Very cool! I'm a fellow cyclist as well. I've done Mt. Tam on a road bike and during last visit on a cross bike set up for gravel. Probably some of the best riding I've done. 30 miles and 6000ft of elevation gain total.
No problem Tex, I�ll post a few shots when I�m out of the office. I was actually going to do a video review on the CAE shifter soon, so that will give you a dynamic vantage.
BTW, my console delete was very home made, its cardboard with black material glued on. I was thinking of using the setup as a template to make it out of aluminum with solid mounting and housing the window switches on it.
I was born and raised in the City and one of the most beautiful views in the WORLD is the driven across the GGB from north to south BUT that's a really short drive from San Rafel into SF to be worrying about the heater, fog lamps, etc. LOL!
You also have SO MANY other options going north (fires notwithstanding) including drives up Hwy 1 or around via Lucas Valley up towards Occidental and Guernville which I've enjoyed many times before.
It�s actually been over the last couple days/weeks (not today)... I�ve been having a problem with misfires when hot so it�s been a series of �potential fixes� followed by test drives. In the process I�ve also found several other things amiss so fixed them while in there... 1) resistor for low speed fan (passenger side).
2) Front differential (C4) - while slightly involved, very straight forward (and I got a great deal on a slightly used one - $250 😃
3) On my last test drive the brake line to the right rear wheel popped so I had to replace it before I could go any further with my misfire diagnostics. If any of you have been through this you know what a nightmare it is. This line runs from a junction block below the drivers door, up over and across the transaxle and back down to the right rear wheel. This and several other lines are routed and fastened to the body before the drivetrain is installed, so you�ve basically got to drop the engine to get the old one out and the new one in. The key was to drop the engine/transaxle about 5-6�, and rout the new line in from the passenger side - there�s no way to get it back to the original routing without removing a bunch of other stuff (coolant lines etc.) so I had to do a little creative routing, but it�s in, all back together and brakes bled... 🙏 now back to the previously programmed pursuit of misfires...
Took the family for ice cream while the weather was good and enjoyed the open top. Taking my wife out for dinner tomorrow night for dinner on the water and maybe convince her to drive it some. May change the rear trunk strut. About the most mechanical work I'll get done this weekend other than real work.
Today I attempted to rebuild the secondary air injection pump because it sounds like a shop vac when I start my car. Unfortunately this is another case where the early cars are �special� and I could get at the bearings to clean and lube them. Looks like I�ll order a used one instead.
I also took apart my steering wheel and replaced the worn out bracket that was causing my horn to honk intermittently. That went smoothly, at least.
You can see how off-center and worn out the mounting points are on the old one on the left.
about an inch behind the junction block just beneath the drivers side door. The hard line was pitted - I replaced the short one to the drivers side rear wheel a little over a year ago. I knew this one was coming so I had the new line on hand...
I�m interested in what your misfires involved? I just experienced a random and intermittent misfire the other day while on a long trip. Pending code for misfire on 4, 5 and 6. Noticable hesitation at steady throttle, then came back to normal, then again, a few times. I stopped for maybe 30 mins, and it hasn�t done it since (including a 300 mile drive home).
On other note, I�m working on my UAOS install, and just about have it done
Finally added some duct tape to the worn plastic caps on the centering journals to stop the top rail from rattling. I have been unsuccessful finding a source for only the plastic caps(like many before me) and am currently unwilling to buy the journal. Maybe I'll be annoyed enough when the duct tape wears out...
@Cityfisher
do you have a 2000+ car? If so , you have a better chance to service it instead of replacing it. If you have a MY99 car then the part is $1,500 new and buying used is the best bet. There seem to be a number of dismantlers on EBay and elsewhere that sell used ones at $70-100. I worry the used part will be noisy too, but I could go through 10 of them and still be $500 ahead and this is a 5-10 swap of a non-critical part.
Awesome! I’ll keep an eye out for it.
I’m wondering about relocating my window switches to the horseshoe, removing the double DIN radio, and just deleting the entire lower console.
I don’t think I‘ll go that extreme until I replace my seats.
Trying to decide which seats to get.
Since it will likely become a daily driver again once COVID is no longer a threat, and I start working again outside the house, I’m considering Recaro Sportster seats.
Looks really nice! (and light)
Totally agree with you on the northern side of the bridge.
There is something fun, however, about cruising down Columbus Street, along the Embarcadero, and along Chrissy Field with the top down and no traffic to speak of!
Bushing for the linkage connector on the Schnell kit popped out of the aluminum body (gold piece on ground). Should have back together with 997 kit tomorrow, with just the base attached feels pretty nice and smooth into each gear.
Setup an out of the way battery maintainer for my PC680.
Its tiny and needs all the help it can get, so I set this up to be fast and out of the way. Quick connect to the terminals. Keeps wires off the ground and the paint.
Yup, Kill is wired in and power removed whenever the car is going to sit for more than a couple hours. I'm not sure how long it would take to kill the battery - but would hazard a guess we're talking couple days max. In my experience - the PC680 is best kept on a maintainer regardless if there is a draw. IMO, they are pretty undersize for the application and need to be at very close to full power to work effectively.
I ran one on an Evo 8 and it was far less temperamental spinning the 4 Cylinder over, the Porsche though - she wants all the battery has to give.
How did you wire the kill switch?
Negative or positive?
If positive, did you cut the battery terminal off?
Also did you wire the DME, fuel, or ignition too?
I’m going to wire mine in too when I install it hopefully this weekend.
I’m thinking about wiring the negative cable, and the ignition.
I have the larger PC925:
Positive battery cable to switch - battery cable from switch to power distribution on the firewall.
This winter I will wire it in for proper safety cutoff looping in alternator. For now, just used to remove power to prevent draw.
( Engine out required) IMSB, Ultimate AOS, Chain pads and chains, Transmission mount, Oil filler tube, AOS coolant connection, drive belt, tubes, fluids, and a few misc parts,
My car is a Tiptronic so IMSB and AOS require the engine out. My cam deviations were a little bit out of spec so I opted for that work while the engine was out. Good thing - the pads were pretty worn, but there were no codes and the car ran fine. I think the biggest butt dyno improvement was from new transmission mounts.
I did pads on both sides of my 99, and it was $5k, but that included both solenoids and an ECU repair (the shorted solenoid blew up the ECU transistor. Hilarious!
So for your $8k, you got quite a few more items done.
Man, I�m sure I need a transmission mount. Shifting is not perfectly smooth on my car.
Received '101 Projects For Your Porsche 911' as a birthday gift. It's the first time i have gone more than 10 pages deep in a book since probably 7th grade and I feel asleep reading! It's a page turner. I am fully aware that some internet research would draw out most of these projects but a handy book version is hard to beat.
Its probably 17 yrs old.... its bad, just like most of the old rubber in your car. U will be happy when u swap it out because your car gets even better.
Yep, there are a couple of good 'how to's over on the 996TT forum - same box and mount
or this....
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...nt-w-pics.html
Back on the road. 997 shift kit feels nice, pretty close to stock 996, slightly less travel. Not notchy like the Schnell kit. Going to keep it for now, maybe try something else down the road.
Havent done a c4 but on the c2 u can pull the bushings out and just replace them with the correct tool. It all looks the similar so im guessing it can be done. This will save u a fair amount of money but u will have to rent the tool from someone.
Enabled the outside temperature display below the tach.
I never really cared about it because it's either a nice day for a drive or it isn't - no dash display required
.
I recently saw in another thread how easy it is to do, so I figured what the hay? It took less than 60 seconds.
Before
Durametric hooked up
After
I had the same thing done when mine was in for service since they did it for free. Kind of surprised if it's easily enabled why they just didn't do that at the factory.
You can also wire switches to the back of the cluster and access some of the other OBC information like distance to empty, MPG's, and things like that. I'm replacing the "dummy" buttons to the left of the climate unit with switches from Pelican and there's a guy somewhere on here that makes the wiring harness for relatively cheap.
Interesting. I don't know that I've seen OBC actuation as a dealership option, would it have shown up on an original window sticker? I know 996.2 it comes activated from the factory.
Thanks, and yes, I read about that. I can't see going to the trouble though. I've had OBCs on BMWs going back 25 years and except for activating the speed gong once when I was trying to be a good boy after a ticket, I never used any of the features available.
Today
@Z996Z
, my son, a co-worker and I went on a drive down to the coast and back.(with a quick detour into Mexico.
)
We took mostly backroads.
It was a VERY fun (and fast) drive, just us 2 996s and my co-worker in his manual Mustang GT.
We kept having to slow down to let the Mustang catch up.
We also stopped at Buc-ees for some ethanol free fuel!
Here's Z996Z's car:
Here's mine:
...and the Mustang GT:
Alignment after 200 miles on new front tires. Hankook Ventus V12's.
They used the wrong spec set. This car is not a 4. But the only difference I could find between the sets of specs was the turning angle difference, which they didn't measure.
Next step, Ohlins or Feals. And maybe a new shifter.
All is good. Keep driving!
YESSS! I’m the complete opposite... I have all black painted center caps with a two tone hood crest. That’s actually why I swap that out after a few days. I wanted some differentiation. But no more colored hood crests anywhere.
Wife looks at car and says it's missing one of those chrome plated caps on the driver's side headlights. Yup, you're right, took me a while to figure out what it was. Still getting used what this has for options. Has the headlight washer option, so I ordered a new assembly. Suppose I could have just found the chrome part someplace, but figured I'd start new.
Had the car for two years now, bled the brakes yesterday with my new Motiv Brake Bleeder. Have no clue how long that fluid was in there. Get the Motiv #0109, it comes with the correct adapter for our cars. See Pic.
Here's a pic of the different colors of fluid I extracted:
1. Reservoir - sucked that out with a turkey baster before bleeding
2. Back brakes - have no idea why it was green!
3. Front brakes - there was some air in them
4. New stuff - for comparison, this is the new stuff
5. Pentosin Super DOT 4 is what I put in, ordered from the amazonians.
Motive European #0109 came with correct adapter
Decided to check my tiptronic engine mount yesterday, YIKES!!! TOTALLY SHOT!!! I'm hoping that this is the culprit for the "grinding noise" when I apply power in a turn.
Porsche dealer in Plano Tx had one, they FedEx'd it to me. Will be here Tuesday morning. Great experience with Roger Reynolds in the parts dept. He boxed it up for free, of course I paid for the FedEx. They are a big dealership and were the only ones in Texas with that mount in stock. Porsche dealer in San Antonio quoted me $399, Austin $360, Plano was only $316! I'm calling them from now on! Oh, quick aside, the Austin Porsche dealer is about to move to a huge new facility! The parts guy there said that they will be stocking a lot more because of the bigger facility.
I'll pull the old one out tomorrow, prep it for the install Tuesday. I'll post some pics of the removal.
Here's pics of the old one:
Drivers side
Drivers side
Passenger side
Passenger side
Nice! The green is really old. Likely due to water absorption(the reason to change it out). I had the same greenish color in my entire system. I would interpret this as your front brakes having been bled more recently. I also had some air in the front left. Not much, but it was there. I didn't have a spongy pedal, so I figured it might have been a leak right at the bleeder screw. Mine was so green I'm thinking about replacing at one year, just to make sure any residual 17 year old fluid is out.
Took my 2000 C4 Cab on a drive for the 1st time after purchasing/driving a new (to me) 2014 Corvette Z51 Stringray Convertible (LT1/3LT) this past week and, I'm sorry, but I've decided that I'm going to sell the 996.
Just don't need both. The Vette is 14 years newer w/only 30k (vs 90k) miles on the ODO and has every option you could possibly want in a high performance sports car. They are both the same color and I don't need/want 2 silver cars.
I still like the 911 but it now seems slow and dated when compared to the Vette . Although the 911 is all sorted now, I still worry that something "really bad" is going to happen to the engine that will require big bucks to repair and I just don't want to worry about that anymore.
Should be able to get most (if not all) of my $ out of the 911 and use it to pay off the small loan that I took out on the Vette. I also need the garage space for my BMW and I have an MR2 Spyder for back up if the Vette ever goes down for repairs.
Anyway these are my "reasons" for the decision. Check CL in the SFBA for a listing coming soon.
Yesterday I posted I was ready to gut the rear of the car but I was too lazy to take the seats out (I hate messing with seats)...today I compromised with my self and pulled A seat and got a lot more weight pulled out. I painted the ECU and fuse tray black because the unfinished stamped steel was offensive (keep in mind, this is coming from a guy who guts his Porsche...loopy). I should have really done all this prior to putting the cage in because working around it was a huge PIA, I'm too old to contort like that, good thing nobody was watching.
I don't have anything handy to weigh all this awkward **** that came out so not sure I can pass along - guesstimate is 40-50 LBS.
Last time the car was on the scales it weighed 3008 LBS with half tank of gas.
Since then I have:
Removed passenger seat and replaced with bucket - Hoping -20 LBS
Removed stock battery and replaced with rennline bracket and a PC680 - Hoping - 25 LBS
Removed Amp, all speakers, head unit and gutted frunk - Weighed -30 LBS
Gutted everything behind driver - Hoping - 45 LBS
Added LN deep sump and skid plate. - Prob added call it 10 LBS
That would put me at an estimated 2898 LBS
We should be cooking with gas now.
It's certainly going to be louder
.
How crazy do you want to go? The rear bumperettes are at least 5 pounds each with their brackets. The rear wiper must be 3-4 pounds - Phenix Engineering makes a nice stainless cap for the wiper hole. If you really want to go all out see if you can find GT3 windows. They are thinner glass and about 1/2 the weight and very pricy. Carbon fiber door shells cut 40 pounds each. I wouldn't mess with a carbon fiber frunk lid it's not worth the bother.
Going to be very loud.... I could name it...NVH
I'm still working low hanging fruit (FREE)... No wiper on my car. AC is probably next, although I'll wait until major work to pull all the lines.
Crash bars F and R ???
To really get where I want, will take a lot of money and or disassembly. But this would be the plan...
Replace rear glass with lexan
Carbon hood
Carbon doors - likely would need cage if went with carbon doors, could severely gut stock doors but at what cost to impact safety ?
Carbon roof skin
Replace 1/4 windows lexan
Gut under the dash
LW Flywheel next time trans comes out
All the unused wiring needs to come out
Rework HVAC to keep only heat and only for defrost
Cat delete
Get rid of windshield washer stuff
Cup Deckled and wing
I'm sure there's more. I'm really going to try to remove something from the car every time I work on it from whatever area I'm working.
What defines street legal? When do you need a trailer to take it to the track? Turn signals, tempered glass, & bumpers would be my guess.
Nice work! Poor intermediate class...
Price is certainly reasonable for that tool. Does your car have that PSM that sounds like it may make bleeding more complicated? Mine does. Remember reading a post from someone recently that had some difficulty with this. I'll get out the Bentley book and Wayne's book long before I do this, but sounds like a good next project. I know in my service history, limited as it is, it's been bled once or twice, though in 17 yrs, that's probably not enough. Look forward to seeing what kind of nastiness comes out of my system.
Not to mention, the roar of the exhaust is going to be thunderous!!! Nicely done
Sorry i can�t remember, have you done the trans insert? If not, this would be a good time the difference will be noticeable.
As long as it has a VIN, it can be registered and as long as it can be made to pass an inspection - it's street legal...
For me, if it's got a full cage, it's not a street car and any meaningful street miles are out including driving it to the track (well, maybe not Thompson, I live 15 min away...).
Thanks, no trans insert yet.
You're basically trying to make a 996Cup car. Easy & cheap stuff, I think, would be front & rear inner bumpers if you don't plan to crash, bumperettes, modify spoiler to fixed up position & remove spoiler motor, remove passenger's seat unless needed.
Then it can get pricy: Porsche made a heat-only manually controlled air box. CF doors as you mentioned though they're not great if you plan to crash. GT3's only have one radiator fan. Turbo fender liners are lighter & better but won't fit NB cars so you would need to find GT3 fender liners or cut holes like the Turbo has.
If you don't have a sunroof I would not mess with a CF roof as there isn't any worthwhile weight savings.
The Porsche shop I use does prep work & maintenance on a bunch of 996Cup cars. They are a Porsche only race oriented shop from aircooled up to 997's. If you want their info I can give it to you. They do work on street cars too, but their main business is race prep & maintenance.
Yup, will be looking to convert a lot of cup parts over.
Unfortunately, my car has a sun roof so that needs to be addressed.
You have a lot of great ideas and I would like the contact info of your shop.
Thanks.
I did my rear seat belts after I installed the cage.
Big mistake!
Took 10 times longer.
The cage will probably have to come out to do the windows.
Unless you have a contortionist friend.
Wifey made me a present! I wanted something to cover the wheels for a quick wash where i don't want the rotors to get all rusted...she's a keeper!
The PCA ones are the sun shade...
Car is up and waiting for the new front trans mount. Old one was totally toast! Will be here tomorrow AM.
Friday was engine mounts. Could immediately feel the difference.
Yesterday was front drop links. Next weekend will be front shock mounts, bump stops, shock bellows, and sway bar bushings.
Finished out my weight savings weekend with a radio delete plate, think it came out pretty good.
For now it is fastened with 3M VHB, if I move switches or gauges To the plate I will figure out a way to use fasteners to secure but it ain’t going anywhere for the moment.
Measurement day to understand the suspension starting point and define what I need to do if I want to try corner balancing at home.
But first, a bit about the madness that affects us, it was 110 degrees outside while I was doing this work. If this doesn't qualify as mad, I don't know what does...
First, figure out the method:
-collect tools necessary, telescoping gauge, calipers, chalk, 15" rule, laser level (and a local brew)
-mark the centerline, outside, and inside edge of each tire
Use the telescoping gauge to measure the defined points to ground
There is a reference bore on the rear suspension crossmember. The Bentley manual shows it clearly
measure to the bolt head that holds the diagonal arm on the front
Here are the numbers relative the different specs of different suspensions:
This car is as stock as they get and the ride height is 17mm below spec. The surprising part is when you look at the gap between tire and fender, it already seems large. Did the original car come 17mm taller? IDK. The bottom end of the spec would be 7-10mm higher than it is today. Needless to say, these springs are TIRED! I added the Ohlin's spec as this is a potential replacement.
Next measurement was to measure fender to center of wheel. Here are the numbers: (I did not measure directly to the center, I measured to the edge of the rim and subtracted half the rim diameter. It seems a bit more accurate.
Next step was to measure the level of the carport. Ultimately, I need to correct for this in order to corner balance the car. All the numbers make sense relative the expected slope away from the house.
First, define the area where the scale will sit: a 15" x 15" square around the center of the tire
Then measure the height of each corner of each wheel to the laser level
Here are the numbers:
In order to level the scales to get an accurate reading, I'll need these shims along with the corresponding increases to the ramps to get the car up on the scales.
The next step, which is to get the coil overs, install, then corner balance, will be delayed until December. I've been called away to our factory in Thailand for 2-3 months.
Additional, there seems to be a bit of discussion whether corner balancing is necessary for street use. I actually don't care. It's an interesting procedure that I've never done, so I would like to try. This should also increase my tool kit as I need to find the scales to do the work. If anyone is aware of a used set for sale, I'm willing to discuss.
Also, attached is the data sheet.
I pulled the front bumper off and cleaned the radiators and condensers. The job had its moments, but overall was not that bad. There were no real surprises with just the typical clot of leaves and junk stuffed in the intake boxes and between the radiator and condenser on each side. I had the hardest time getting the center radiator shroud back on. I actually had to laugh at myself at getting hung up on that stupid shroud. Getting the bumper back on was definitely harder than taking it off. Getting the holes to line up was a bit of a trick, but I prevailed. I did this while replacing the front brakes. I figured while the rotors were off there was plenty of room to remove the inner fender liners. While in there I relocated the frunk emergency pull cable to the tow hook hole. I wasn't sure how to fasten it to anything so we'll see if it stays put once I start driving.
Next step is to finish the front brakes and drive, drive, drive!
Yeah....long story, but I have only been driving the car for a couple weeks now. (Bought it in Jan/Dec while I was still deployed, but didn't get home from Afghanistan until the end of August.) The exhaust tips were hanging very low (and uneven). The car did idle very roughly with lots of interior noise (high NVH for you fellow engineers)...my daughter refused to ride in it.
Now I notice less NVH, crisper shifting (but I also just recently installed aluminum shift bushings as well), and a generally more enjoyable experience. Overall, one of the best $200 I have spent on a car.
Next steps will be continued work on refreshing the suspension.
Finally finished the coolant tank replacement. I put in a new Porsche tank (heard the aftermarket ones suck), bracket and coolant level sensor. It's a '99 so I didn't have to lower the engine. One of the hardest parts was getting the rightmost bolt tightened on the bracket. I removed it to make it easier to get the tank back in. Once the tank was in, I didn't have enough room to have a straight shot at the bolt with the socket and extension I had.
The other problem is that the well nuts (before this I didn't know what a well nut was) that hold the air pump to the body were shot and I had to buy new ones from amazon along with slightly longer bolts from Home Depot.
Nothing leaked so I'm grateful for that! In a month or two I'll probably replace the water pump & t-stat. I have them already.
I'm in San Diego. No ash but the sky is a really interesting color.
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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/22da8f05_74c3_45c4_9baa_fd360589d35e_28d5de575a86ad272bae0a74ff458fe47befe080.jpeg
I drove to work really fast and almost all is off.
I think the key is get them off before the next morning temperature rise where the flakes will collect moisture and stick. Maybe some spirited driving at 4am!
Cleaning them off is the job for tomorrow. Luckily my paint is far from perfect...
My turn to do motor mounts today. Not too bad a job, and I had my kids help out, which is always fun. Car is much smoother at idle and higher rpms now. Plus, my exhaust tips are no longer sagging!
I used these after a lot of research. I didnt want it too stiff, but not factory soft. These are upgraded with poly injection. Do a search the members love them. Me included.
the worst part of the job was getting the MAF sensor to disconnect.
http://www.function-first.com/produc...-mount-upgrade
As mentioned above, the Function First mounts are popular with folks who want a firmer mount and don�t mind a little extra vibration. However, it seems like the go-to engine mounts for most Rennlisters are the ones from Rein, which are a factory-style replacement.
FCO Euro sells a kit with two Rein mounts and the required hardware for $250. That�s what I used:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...ein-996engmtkt
Thats a good deal. I feel like every time I look for a part on Rock Auto they don�t have what I need and their site makes it painful to figure out. In addition to the warranty, FCP has a great website and stellar customer service. I don�t mind paying a bit extra for that.
The FCP kit also comes with the Genuine Porsche nuts and bolts, which is like $30 worth of hardware, as well as free shipping. So the difference in shipped price is actually $48.
Moved spoiler switch to horseshoe. So much easier to clean it!
Drove the heck out of it today. Its like a new car. Don’t notice any additional vibration but what a difference in acceleration and downshifting. Very happy with the mounts!
New water pump and low temp thermostat, and of course all new coolant.
Took a lot longer than expected, solid 8 hours. Had a hard time getting the old one out. Cause was I didn't have the engine jacked up enough to have the brace clear the pump.
in the short test drive I took tonight the temperature only got to the middle of the eight and would not go any higher. I can give you some more information as I'll be taking the car back and forth to work a couple of days this week and it's pretty hot down here.
One of the best looking 996.1 I have seen actually. Yellow suite perfectly the 996 lines no surprise it was a brochure chosen color etc. Really like the smoked rear lights as well , tempted to put them on mine to be honest ….
Overall, the low temp 'stat won't affect the normal operating temp of the engine. It only opens sooner which will alleviate "hot spots" that may develop before the stock t-stat opens. I'd surmise that if silver's operating temp is lower it's due to the new water pump... (maybe the old one had lost some fins?)...
Old one had no fins missing, and seemed to be in perfect shape. I replaced it because I had no clue how old it was, and with all the other "old" stuff I've been finding lately I didn't want to take a chance.
I have a third (center) radiator as well - it didn't really lower the overall temp either (maybe very slightly but basically not noticeable on the temp gauge). The replacement of the low speed fan resistor did though...
Yes, the resistor was shot - I got the 2 100w generic resistors for $11 from Amazon. Replaced the bad one and have 1 left over for next time...
^^^ The GT3 Buckets are awesome BTW ^^^
So what extra parts do you need for this? Crutchfield says this doesn't fit which isn't the case, though I'd buy from them if I knew what to get. Looks like I'd need some sort of trim to move my heater controls to the bottom too.
i got mine from crutchfield. Their site says it doesn�t fit because that year had single din. Order the radio you want, get the porsche to radio connector. I used the suncoast kit. I think its better that mitra. It also comes with the trim to move hvac control to bottom. You will have to buy cubby for upper hole or reuse cd holder.
its a different shape than the bottom cubby.
I used the Metra99-9605B kit. That allows you to install a double din up top and has a one piece cubby and A/C Control surround for the bottom. Some day I may replace with genuine Porsche parts. I also used the Metra wiring adapter 70-1787 for the harness. Most of the wires were incorrect but I knew the correct pinouts and made my own harness using the pieces from this kit. I also used one of the MOST adapters from Amazon. Here is a link on how to physically install a double din
https://cai-store.com/pages/install-...es-for-996-986
Also, if you search this site, there are plenty of good recaps on how to install. Electrical is very different based on year and Bose.
Shop did the following
Motul300 7590 tranny diff fluid - wow what a difference. Completely different feel. Very smooth.
wired in daytime running lights - car was a US car originally and prior owner never changed it to make it legal in ontario canada.
swapped out the ims ! Went with vertex/eps. No more nightmares from my ims exploding...and yes my orginal bearing was fine.very little play if anything.
AOS was fine..mechanic said looked like replaced prior.
clutch and flywheel like new.
And my new paper weight.just need to degrease it a bit.
It was a Dundon special (You'll note even the centercaps have Dundon logo.... They had the car for like 7 months and rebuild just about everything in the car....the car is insanely fun to drive...with about 400HP. This picture shows what was done...
The weather here in SC is starting to become perfect driving weather...,
Unfortunately, suffered a right wrist injury about two weeks ago making gear changes painful.
I had a star crack in my windshield fixed. I hope it really works, I don't want to fork out cash for a brand new windshield at the moment.
Also, I learned to stay about a 1/4 mile behind any kind of truck, lol.
Replaced my mounts today after changing oil. Old were definetly worn out. Replaced with Rennline, yellow inserts. Glad I didn�t put in red as the yellow can really be felt in cabin.
Today was front shock mounts, bump stops, and lower control arms.
Still waiting on the correct sway bar bushings to arrive, then those will go on as well.
Next up will be rear suspension refreshing....
I passed my TX safety/emissions inspection. ( I don't need no stinkin's downstream O2 sensors!)
...so I did this:
WOW, a 22# savings!
If you look in the second picture you can see that I added a second throttle stop to the cable.
This way I can disable the kill switch cable for when I'm driving on the street.
It's currently "enabled" in the picture.
Cup mirrors installed, they don't work 100% with factory steel doors with regards to stock weather stripping. They are on for now and I'll figure something out over the winter. Test fit
side skirt up to get an idea what I'll be up against, looks like should fit pretty well. I'm going to run them as they came off the race car for the rest of the nice season, then figure out how much $ and effort it will be to get them looking pretty. The pass side is more beat up then the driver... Car is going to have...a look to it. The orange of mirror and side skirt are the same, lighting playing with the picture.
Thanks for the info - there is a part of me that says beat up race car parts are starting to give the car... pardon the overplayed cliche - outlaw - vibe that I dig... I like the fact I don't have to worry about keeping aesthetics perfect... just the mechanicals.
Thanks. The 911's inspection and regstraton isn't due until 11/2020, but I wanted to change to the Odyssey battery, and I knew it should pass now.
My Mustang and Honda Minivan are months out of date, but that's due to Covid.
Both need a replacement brake light bulbs.
I've ordered the bulbs and they're due to arrive tomorrow.
Then hopefully they will also be inspected and re-registered.
They both expired early Covid, but were allowed extra time to be inspected...but I've pushed that a bit too far.
A few long awaited items over the weekend:
- Replaced rusted out battery tray with a decent used one from eBay. Found out that Porsche sells the battery tray gasket (about 12 euro) and hold down clamp (about 3 euro) separately. I used standard M8 nuts/bolt from the hardware store.
- Replaced useless CD holder with storage cubby.
- Replace broken fuse cover panel with new one. Unfortunately the new part has the battery release graphic which does not apply on a '99.
- Installed AUX input cable. The radio is in fairly tight. On a twenty year old car as soon as you touch any cables the fabric wrap tape falls off like a ribbon. So I re-taped all the harnesses. Secondly putting the radio back I sensed that the cables were getting in the way of the hold down clamps. Glad I took out the Climate unit above which has a very long cable. From there it was much easier to correctly tuck and route both the Aux cable and the radio harness to prevent any jamming. It was easy to bring the Aux cable down using an opening towards the pedal box.
Replaced missing passenger side headlight washer cover with new, thanks to YouTube video. Easy stuff when you have the info. Looking at some wet spots on the garage floor and looking at coolant level down again. Decided to do water pump, coolant tank and thermostat as well as new Porsche coolant from suncoast. Went with Porsche pump, tank and gaskets. Went with LN thermostat. Also ordered a pair of Rein engine mounts from Rock Auto. Had some core credit from the alternator return. Seeing some YouTube videos from that, can see that it�s an easy swap too.
400 HP makes the car more than I can use vs the 300 before I used it all.
I was hesitating to put in LWFW due to the fact that I felt it would be tougher at low RPM shifts but in the end the speed at which the response for revmataching fast shifts is glorious. I can't believe I almost didnt do it.
Thanks
Finished installing aero and got it out of the garage for a few pictures. I had a big smile on my face when I first saw it in the open and the drive to get there was money too.
For sideskirts, wait until Black Friday sales.
I bought my OEM Porsche Aerokit II Sideskirts from Sunset Porsche 2 years ago during Black Friday sale and saved a ton!
They ended up as cheap as aftermarket, but fit perfectly without any modifications.
Interesting. I would never have guessed that any Porsche dealer would have a Black Friday Sale. I will watch around that time but not overly optimistic. I had read somewhere that new parts were not available and that fining NOS was like a barn find.
Congrats on the find.
While waiting for the 2x rubber grommets (999-500-206-00) to replace the the old ones which disintegrated when I removed the Smog pump to fit the new engine motor mounts - I decided to clean the airbox while off the car. It's a good job I did!
Quite a bit of sand in the snorkel and in the lower part underneath the filter, I guess due to the car being in AZ for the last 15 years. A dead wasp and twigs also removed .
Paper filter was dirty. (ordered new K&N from Amazon).
More concerning, the lower bolt holding the MAP sensor was missing. I dread to think how much Arizona sand leaked thru the hole... Ordered two new bolts (999-919-160-07) from local Porsche dealer.
Q: There is a compartment on top of the airbox that hits a dead end. What is this for? To create turbulence to help mix in gasoline later on?
Parts are still available.(or were in 2018)
996.2 Sideskirts:
000‑044‑802‑15
https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/o...ly-00004480215
Black Friday sale also included $50 shipping.
996.1 Taco spoiler:
996-512-901-00
https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/o...id-99651290100
996.2 rear wing:
996-512-901-02
https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oem-parts/porsche-rear-spoiler-99651290102g2x
996.2 front bumper:
000-044-802-28
https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oem-parts/porsche-front-spoiler-00004480228
996.1 Front bumper:
996-505-980-02
https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/o...99650598002g2x
I also have 996.1 Sideskirts part numbers somewhere. But they are sold per side, whereas the 996.2 above are sold as a complete set with mounting hardware.
@Cityfisher
The upper cubby I sourced directly from the local dealer for about 40 euros. They had the best price.
The lower cubby I also replaced since my old one was cut up. These are cheap on eBay as much less in demand vs. the upper one.
I think this setup looks decent and more importantly gives much needed space for phone(s), wallet etc., specially on cars without a glovebox like mine. With the Aux cable right there it's the perfect place to drop in the phone.
Not sure exactly what compartment you are referring to...maybe the Hemholtz Resonator? The extra short tube that connects to the air filter box?
Oh..forgot to add..is the K&N filter one of those that require oil? Not a good idea as the oil coats the MAF sensor and ruins it. Only use a paper filter.
I dug into my first project with my new car after getting it back from the body shop after getting into a fender bender on my first day with it.
And of course got some surprises. The passenger headlamp assembly was dead and I found that the male plug had some busted tabs and so no longer was fixed into the mounting plate. Gonna blame that one on the body shop. The ballast was a little corroded but nothing prepared me for the driver side assembly (which still works). The ballast is corroded to **** and the rubber seals are like goo. I�d say there�s a relationship there. So I have some unanticipated work to do, but that�s OK since I bought this car to tinker with. (I�m a completely novice mechanic).
Wow! That corrosion is gnarly! The broken light connector is quite common (one of the first things I fixed on my car - mine was the blue one though...). You can source parts here:
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p..._911_parts.php
They don't always have the best prices, (and always charge for shipping!) but their diagrams are great and have all the part #'s along with updates (once you've got the part #'s shopping is easy). Good luck with the tinkering - if your car is anything like mine, you'll have plenty to do!
Thanks for naming that piece. I was able to find PLENTY of discussion here on Rennlist and elsewhere. example. TLDR: It's for noise damping.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post15028042
K&N cancelled and paper filter on the way.
today I had to use Duct Tape - actually, it was Gorilla Tape.... I am thankful this happened at a gas station that sold such tape!!! But I will say, the OH **** moment when it came off in my hand......
Been there, done that, bought the gorilla tape T-Shirt.
I will say the following, there was no discernible difference in drivability for me with the gorilla tape solution and I thought it worked fine, being that the tube is a PIA to replace, I was lazy... When looking into AOS issues at the track I thought it likely that the cracked tube was not air tight and allowing for a vac leak so I bit the bullet and changed the tube. When I got it off I sealed both ends and sure enough - not even close to air tight. So, I would swap it out sooner rather than later even if you don't notice a difference,
I bought a replacement tube and cap at the dealer, figured I'd do both at once. If your going to do it yourself, you can get away with just sliding the belt off the alternator, remove alternator mounting bolts and wiggle it out of the way, you don't need to fully remove it. Then you will be able to access the 2 10MM bolts that hold the tube in - working blind so be patient and turn your fingers into eyes. Buy a magnetic 10MM socket also, really helpful here. Put a little lube on the O-ring (does not come with tube, make sure you get when getting tube) and ease her in....
Then put everything back together and turn your old oil fill cap into a manometer testing cap.
That's a good temporary fix but it will start letting air in before too long. A better temporary (or longer run) fix is to use marine grade heat shrink material. Do a search here. Another fix is to find a rubber plumbing coupler that fits and use some hose clamps to secure it. I did the gorilla tape for a month or two and then switched to the coupler. When I did the change, I saw that there was glue on the inside of the tube, meaning that air was leaking in. I had the coupler on for almost two years without issue before replacing the filler tube.
The front bump stops on my car are in a similar state. Is there a way to gauge, before disassembly, if the top mounts need replacement? Sometimes I hear a knock from the front left but only after a long drive. �99 with about 45k miles.
Thanks Tex !
I am going to use in this order : 2 sided 3M VHB, 3 screws and washers, an aluminum backing plate inside rear bumper, 3 nuts and washers.
Joe T doe not make the dive planes for the 2nd gen 996, he suggested the 986 version for closest fit - its workable but not perfect. The screws would be needed in any case in this situation to suck the part up to the bumper for good seal between the bumper and part.
DT40 and filter
LN magnetic drain plug
Oil pressure bypass valve and pressure sender (was concerned about getting correct oil pressure reading at dash)
New O2 sensors (why not?)
Tip filter and fluid (below)
Checked front engine mount (already done rears)
Diff oil (2002 Tip has a drain plug!)
Tomorrow.....drive the **** off it.
How long had it been since the Tip fluid was changed?
Also what was the state of the front trans mount?
Just curious as I am planning similar work on my �01 C2 with Tip.
Thanks!
Today i reached double the miles on my 03 4s since acquiring in 18 months + 1 week ago. 21,700 to 43,400. I barely remember pre-Porsche life but it definitely wasn't as fun.
tranny fluid was OK, but I wanted to set as much of the car to 'zero service miles' as possible.
Front tranny mount was Ok; I suspect its been done in the last few years.
Did it work? Were you able to use this to press in the new mount without removing the transmission from the car?
Probably need to replace my trans mount, but don�t want to take the transmission out to do it....
Today I tackled the vent foam problem in the frunk. When I work on the radio, I�ll do the other blending flap to eliminate that vent foam source as well.
Replaced the existing original motor mounts from 2002 with new Rein ones. Needed a breaker bar to get the nut loose but otherwise easy. Lost about 1/4 or 3/8 of an inch of sag.
Got a oil/filter change a couple of days ago w/Mobil1 ESP 0-40.
Only 2600 miles between oil/filter changes. Routinely change the oil annually regardless of the mileage in all of my cars.
Neglected to take photos but he magnetic plug and filter were CLEAN!
So I was going to take the car off the stands and was looking at the seams on the mufflers. I assume these aren�t any good for a Fister conversion due to the cracks?
Took it for a drive and can feel more vibration from the newer mounts. I imagine the poly adjustable ones must be a step up from that. One more routine task done.
1) Replaced my instrument cluster LCD Bulbs to fix the clock that turned black a week ago. Bought 4 bulbs on Amazon :BMW instrument cluster Bulb 1.5w Beige Socket Base (x4) $8.99.
Took about half an hour (good DIY on YouTube)
2) Fixed the brake pad warning light: The pads are OK but one wire of the front pad sensor was cut near the plug. Installed a new URO sensor.
I removed the Bushwood Country Club sticker that I put on last month in honor of the 40th anniversary of the release of
Caddyshack
and replaced it with our chapter sticker.
Then I put on my just delivered Porsche/German flag themed shoes (now that I see them in person I wish I'd left the checkerboard off).
And then I drove to Mission Bay for a socially distanced beer with an old friend.
Fitted the softer, shorter clutch spring from McMaster-Carr* (
9657K142
- 3.5" long, 1" OCD, "0.76 ID). I have not driven the car yet, but I can immediately feel the clutch weight is linear rather than the variable mess which had zero feel around the bite point which caused me to either stall the car or use excessive revs to move from standstill. This is one of the very few non-oem mods I plan to do. Looking forward to tomorrow's test drive.
The job was much easier than described on here and elsewhere on the Internet. I just jammed a cottier pin through the hole in the back of the housing , pressed down hard on the clutch pedal and out popped the top of the housing. I just used my fingers to wiggle it out afterwards. I reclined the driver's seat as far as it would go and laid on my back looking up at the clutch spring. (once the ventilation tube had been squeezed together and removed) Once out of the car, I needed to hold the cottier pin in a vice so I could pry it away from the spring housing using a large screw driver and I wrapped the whole assembly in an old towel to keep it from flying across the garage as the hold pin was released.
Here's a pic of it greased up and about to go back into the car, held at the correct compression with the reused, twisted up cottier pin that had been in the vice and the old 'lubed up' oem spring I took out.
*McMaster-Carr shipped the part very fast. I got it the next day via UPS for $20.29 including delivery for six springs, minimum order. Very impressed. I've got 5 spares as well.
I wired in a second dual-USB charger socket, but left it hiden behind the dash.
Ran a USB extrension to the rear deck.
Made a bracket for my Dual XGPS 160 that I mounted on the rear deck.
Now my GPS & GoPro will automagically have power when I start my car.
I have both Harry's Lap Timer Grand Prix & TrackAddict.
I tested Harry's Lap Timer and the GPS, GoPro and Kiwi seem to be working fine.
I'm ready for the next AutoX.
I just need to order a case of XP9 and a case of DT40 and I'll be ready for the next Track Day.
Tomorrow I'm installing Feal coilovers on a Millennium Edition.
Yesterday I changed the motor mounts. I was surprised after pulling the installed ones (just over 57k miles on car) that they were most likely original with a 2003 build date on them. I suppose they could have been changed at some point but it's not in any of my paperwork. At any rate, they were in surprisingly good shape. Not much tailpipe sagging at all but after owning the car for 5 years I figured they were due. I installed Reins that did tighten up the tailpipes maybe a 1/2 inch or so. I suspect they won't have the same longevity as the OEMs?
Strut mounts can be very cracked. Some you see; some, including very large failures, you don't until you get them off. I suspect these need replacement a lot more than folks realize. Made a huge difference in noise/driving in my case. That rubber is single handedly responsible for suspending the entire corner of the car and all it's impacts.
In terms of clutch feel, this is an excellent mod. I found a newly laid piece of twisty road, these 996's are quite fun in the rain aren't they?
There is a downside though...I think the effort required to depress the pedal is now too much. I wonder whether the oem spring I removed was fatigued. I may end up fitting a stronger clutch spring next.
The first one is definitely the hardest.
I installed a Feal suspension yesterday on a C4.(Millennium Edition)
Having the lift sure made things easier!
It still took a lot longer than I thought it would.
We installed and uninstalled 3 corners trying to get the height just right.
In the end it looked perfect.
Feal has either slightly redesigned their stuff, or the 996.1 C4 suspension is different, or both.
Some of the differences I like, and some I don't.
But nothing earth shattering.
What would you recommend as a suspension starting place for for someone who has no experience with suspensions? (Actually I replaced the shocks on my 1965 Pontiac about 50 years ago). Maybe something that is easy and will help me decide if I want to continue or just have a shop do it.
Also, is there anything special about Porsche suspensions that requires a Porsche indy to do it?
Also, what are the winning Lotto numbers for next week's drawing?
Bill - I am not skilled, but did replace all my front and rear arms and links. I didn’t replace my shocks/struts, had indy do it (didn’t have the time at that moment). The resources on this site and RennTech had all the info I needed. Two people make the strut and shock replacements doable at home, with stands. You can replace all the other stuff solo, without any trouble. Nothing special or different required for the Pcar work.
56-32-1-17-33–42
For the order you want to replace items, I’d recommend you check out Elephant Racing for their suspension primer and diagrams.
Put in a red tach overlay at lunch today. Was very easy to do and turned out great. My only tip is to use an LED flashlight to line up the numbers. Easier than trying to do it in the car.
I got them off flebay for $60. Figured if I didn't like it I would just pull it back off. Turned out really nice. No pics at night yet, just got it done.
Just purchased mine. Had it delivered over the weekend. This is my first venture into Porsche ownership and wanted to start with a 996.
Need to get some additional pictures of it but so far so good! Love the spec. Only have about 50 miles of driving on it. IMS and clutch have been done and the car has an incredibly detailed service history. Big shout out to Udrive Automobiles for everything. I'll use some of their pics for now
I do have an engine light that popped up and will diag that code tonight to see what it is.
I�m a novice wrench. I started by replacing my front drop links. That went well, I got some hands on familiarity with the suspension and gave me the confidence to keep wrenching. I�m going to do the front sway bar bushings next. After that, the coffin arm and tuning fork links.
When it�s time for shocks and springs I may take that to a shop. We�ll see.
I think you need to decide based upon what you want to do with the car. Mines an 03 cab with a tiptronic trans so I'm not really track focused. I want to keep it mostly stock with a few changes along the way. It's far and away the best handling car I've ever owned as it is. I don't want to add any additional noise or vibration if I don't have to. Exhaust is still under consideration. I remember the poly bushings I put into my 71 cuda years ago ago and the creaks and squeaks it introduced. If it adds longevity without noise, I'd be up for it. So far so good with the Rein motor mounts. Haven't looked at the trans mount yet. The rest of the rubber components, I'll look at next year.
We've taken our cab to Hampton a couple of times this summer. Once lately to see the sand sculptures. I've been to the top of Mt Washington once and my wife and I were talking about doing it it the cab, though she wasn't as enthusiastic about it as I was. We took it to dinner in Center Harbor Sunday night to Canoe for dinner.
It really depends upon what you do/want to do with the car.
I really like Feal coilovers, but they�re not the answer for everyone.
Coilovers or fully assembled struts are MUCH easier than just installing strut inserts.
No, but some tools make it a LOT easier.
I�ll take some pictures of the ones I recommend having.
Also, I recommend getting a computerized alignment.
5 numbers between 1 and 50.
How does one properly torque the ball joint end of the coffin arm, also the eccentric bolts have no room for a torque wrench.
I almost lost a tooth when my wrench slipped and I face planted into the rotor.
The second side was going well until I realized the ball joint stud was just turning with the nut. The other nut (me) was wondering why this one was taking so much longer than the other...Wish I had a lift!
The ball joint end is tight on a C2, it is VERY tight on a C4.
On the C2 I had a tough time getting a crowfoots in there with the torque wrench.
On both, I just use experience to tell me when I hit the correct torque.
All ball joints seem to spin if they're not fully seated.
Yeah, usually I use a prybar or a c-clamp to help hold ball joints where they're fully seated and then I don't have a problem with spinning.
QuickJack B5000SLX
It was worth the price.
Imagine jacking up a car and putting jack stands under it, then jacking up the car, removing jack stands, and dropping it to ground to measure...then do it several more times.
Having an easy UP/DOWN button, it only took 1 minute to unlock the safety and drop the entire car to the ground. 30 seconds later it could be back in the air.
With an impact wrench too, we saved a ton of time.
In fact, after letting the suspension settle the C4 owner wants to raise the back end a little.
With the QuickJack we should be able to adjust the rear in short order this weekend.
Went to turn on the headlights last Friday morning and neither worked. My car has litronics and they�ve been slow to come on since I purchased the car. Usually about 10-20 seconds after they were switched on. I�ve seen this on early xenon headlight equipped cars from the same era so never gave it much thought.
Some quick google searches revealed this could be the headlight switch itself.
Replaced it with this morning and low beams come on instantly. Very easy install. 30 mins tops.
Headlight Switch. Porsche 986 Boxster / 996
Amazon
Amazon
Maybe you should trust your conscience and just not say it, then. As you stated, it�s a good tutorial. The gender of the person sharing their wrenching knowledge doesn�t change that.
I don�t know why their videos should be any harder to watch than ones featuring the typical dudes. Let�s face it: automotive YouTubers generally aren�t GQ cover models.
I�ve heard from plenty of women, gay folks, and others who are car enthusiasts but don�t get involved in car events and communities because of �car bros�.
There�s more anti-car sentiment in the world than ever, and we drive the misfit model of the Porsche world. It seems to me like we should go out of our way to welcome anyone that wants to drive and wrench on these amazing and under appreciated cars.
Ha, I'm definitely not interested in GQ Youtubers. I watch lots of female, and possibly gay Youtube DIYers.(Some, but not all are automotive related) Male, female or gay doesn't bother me.
But some voices do.
Fannie, Scotty Kilmer, Doug Demuro all have voices that are irritating to listen to.
I don't watch any of theirs...unless there is something of great interest.
Voices can definitely make a difference when it comes to consuming content. I know a lot of people don't like Doug specifically because of this, his inflection is off-putting to a lot of people. I think he is really smart though and has done a good job building his brand. And keeping it on topic, my new vert top was ordered today, ended up biting the bullet and opting for the glass upgrade. Was going to go plastic but figured if I keep it a long time it will last longer and if I get the sudden urge to sell it will look better.
I've watched a lot of YouTube DIY videos and find Heidi and Franny's instructions to be very straight forward and more complete than many others. It takes a lot of work to make a good instructional video and I appreciate the effort.
Took the 996 backpacking in Yosemite (like 2yrs ago but my daughter's away at college so went solo this time!). Ran like a champ up and down the Old Priest Grade (always wanted to do that!) and started right up (as usual) after 5 days of siting lonely in the cold while I trekked a big loop starting and ending at Tuolumne Meadows. Bad air quality in the middle forced a change of route but still got some amazing alpine views. Drove home on Tioga Road through the Blue Jay forest fire and passed by big trees right next to the road just burning with firefighters casually monitoring. Never had that experience before, super weird!. I've got an AC leak I need to figure out (I suspect it's up front near the condensers) which made the air blow less cool than usual while coming home through the 100F heat and terrible air quality (150+!!!) in the central valley (Oakdale, Manteca, Tracy, ...).
The 996 basking in the view of Lembert Dome. The winds were from the east, so Tuolumne Meadows had beautiful clear blue skies.
Me and the 996 taking in Clouds Rest and Half Dome. The white haze in the distance is not clouds, it's smoke from the Creek Fire.
Snapped this picture through the passenger side window driving through an active forest fire!
I unfortunately was not in a 996 when I took the picture today, but being a Porsche enthusiast I really appreciated this and thought others would too. Today while out running errands I ran into a Gunther Werks 993 (the one featured in the Motor Trend review of the car in fact) in McLean, VA today. I was stupid and did not take a video of the car taking off from the stop light but it sounded glorious. Registered in VA with standard VA plates too
My 03 C4S has the exact same cracks (two each side, both up near the top of the tail light) as yours shows here. What is up with these C4S tail lights? Any ideas by anyone why this happens?
Otherwise, your car looks like the doppelganger to mine. Glad you enjoyed the hike--we'll probably take ours out for a hike tomorrow, but without the forest fires here in PA.
Those cracks drive me crazy and I have no idea why they happened. Car has been garaged at home since I bought it in 2005 and I had a garage at work from 2005 until 2018, so it can't be sun damage.
The inner mounting holes also broke out and I installed the "taillight savers" to avoid a bigger loss.
Have a great hike! I lived in Pittsburgh for 5 years and loved hiking in the fall through the autumn leaves.
Nice! This is a crazy road. Does someone still stock bottles of water for the overheaters? I've been up and down it several times in other than Porsche cars and always had seriously fading brakes at the bottom of it. Good to hear our brakes are good.
From Wikipedia:
Priest grades
[
edit
]
West of
Priest
is a section of highway with over one hundred curves and hairpin turns, known as the "New Priest Grade." With a 4% grade, it opened in 1915 and was built by a group of local volunteers who desired an alternative to the very steep (17%) Old Priest Grade.
[17]
Today, both grades are paved, but trailers and RVs are prohibited from Old Priest Grade.
[18]
There is a 7,500-pound weight limit on the old grade
[QUOTE=dcsjc;16943590]Those cracks drive me crazy and I have no idea why they happened. Car has been garaged at home since I bought it in 2005 and I had a garage at work from 2005 until 2018, so it can't be sun damage.
The inner mounting holes also broke out and I installed the "taillight savers" to avoid a bigger loss. /QUOTE]
I created my own tail light savers using some aluminum and pop rivets to hold the tail lights. Not as elegant as the taillight savers, but it is working for now and easily better than $1k for new tail lights.
If some one was interested in creating a .stl file on those tail light savers, that would be a huge service to the community here!!!!!!
I�m about to do this project with some Alpine speakers. Your approach looks different than other tutorials I�ve seen which use the old speaker frame OR an adapter ring. You seem to be using both. Can you share some details?
Was proud myself for changing out the expansion tank with a minimum of hassle, until I realized I wasn't paying close enough attention and broke the oil filler when I was putting the air box back in. Dummy.
Same approach, improved IMHO. Makes it air tight for the speaker.
Cut OEM speaker frame with Dremmel, glue in laser cut disc. (a local company made these 'washers' for a few bucks each)
Trim mounting lugs on new speaker, glue speaker to insert.
Used standard constuction adhesive in small beads.
Got the drivers side scavenge pump out. This was even worse than the bank 2 side. New one arrives next week.
Deep scoring
more scoring..
..and some more
No idea, both are shot. I started taking out the bank 2 side since(it's easy, done in 30min) I was investigating oil pressure drops in turns. After replacing bank 2 I only had pressure drops in right handers so I was quite confident bank 1 would be shot also, which it was. Hoping that this will cure the oil pressure drops, will see in a few days.
I recently installed a MR12VOLT bluetooth/aux adapter in my 2003 C2 with Bose. Yesterday I got to an independent shop to activate the CDC function on the CDR23 headunit. I am using the MR12VOLT to aux attach a Sirius/XM receiver, phone and USB stick. I put the unit behind the drivers side carpeted console extension where the phone pre-wire harness is located. Here are pics of the visible part of the install. The extension cable for the USB stick pulls out about 24 inches.
Headunit and Sirius/XM receiver
USB stick in driver footwell
Today was rear suspension day. Replaced rear shock mounts and bump stops. Then also the rear lower control arms. Discovered that I have a couple more control arms that need to be replaced as well....
So one rear rim was bent but was missed on PPI. Should have know due to alignment way out and seller mentioning he replaced one rear tire. Huge pothole hit. Fingers crossed the rim is at the repair shop. Went to change the belt and found tensioner hosed. The bolt in the arm has spun and tensioner is toast. Have to remove bracket to fix so parts on order. Missing some great fall driving!
There always seem to be lots of (often little) things that people either A) Don't want to deal with because it's really expensive if you can't DIY it or B) Drive the car so infrequently that they don't even notice...Take care of them a little bit at a time, and try to prioritize (obviously safety issues can't wait) the important stuff and don't stress over the low priority things. Good luck
Went out for a drive in the beautiful fall weather. Stopped by a lake for a walk. Came back, drove off. Didn't feel right. Stopped and discovered a dead flat rear tire.
What luck, an adventure! /s
Yes, it's a 16 year old spare tire, and a 16 year old compressor. But both worked great.
Here's the tire. I've never seen a tire gash that large (1.5"-2" long) from just road debris. Any thoughts? Part of me thinks a knife, but don't those people just knife the sidewall?
Caveats, disclaimers, etc.: Some will say the car should have been gently placed on a bed of pillows in an enclosed flatbed truck, and had stories read to it. I do have roadside assistance, but I was only about 8 miles from home, had kids waiting at home, and didn't think it was worth it waiting an hour for a truck, especially when I have no idea how carefully they would have lifted and towed the car. Yes, the spare is 16 years old, but it inflated well, and held pressure with the weight of the car for the 5min I waited to check. I drove about 25-30mph home, and put the car on the lift as soon as I got home to take the weight off. It did great!
How many people replace their donut spare tire...ever? Are they even readily available for our cars and others? That's not something I've thought about before but with most of our 996's getting close or over 20 years of age it's something to consider. I'd replace it and go as well rather than waiting too.
On my 4 Runner of similar vintage, I had a bad gash in one of my rear tires and so I just replaced both to keep wear consistent. Still plenty of life on the non-damaged rim, so I threw it on my spare. But, now you've gotten me thinking about my 996 spares...thanks for the reminder!
-Matt
After 17 years of owning my car, I have not yet taking out my spare from the frunk (knock-on-wood). But I do occasionally check the spare tire pressure just to be on the safe side in case I do get a flat on the road. Cheers,
I've been wondering this since yesterday. I'm not sure that the spare will deflate completely back to it's small folded size, although I haven't tried yet (I want to clean it well first). There are replacements on ebay, but these seem to just be part-outs from other cars, so are also 16+ years old.
Anyone know more about this? Is it possible to get a newer replacement tire for the folding spares?
My Porsche 996 cars had fulling inflated spare tires, but I know that Porsche has since moved away from that, but instead includes a tire repair kit and compressor. But you can still get a spare tire kit that includes a run-flat spare, jack, etc.
I would just order a used replacement if your current one is problematic.
Even at 20yrs old. It will get you from point A to point B, but do not drive any longer than to the tire shop. I just had my original spare on my 04 Ram blowout while driving on it for two weeks. It was it's first use and only use...the steal cords in the rubber where rusty.
Good question. I've got the donut spare in my 2000 C4 Cab which also came w/a compressor to inflate it.
I'd hate to inflate it to check it out and then find out that it won't deflate back to its original size, thereby rendering it useless. Personally, I'll just take my chances on whether it will "work" or not when I need it and just call AAA if it doesn't.
I also carry a can of inflator to use in conjuction w/the compressor to use in case AAA is unavailable and I need to try to fix one of tires on the car, which is what I'd try to do before using the donut since it would require jacking up the car and removing/replacing the flat.
There are the same precautions as I take w/my BMW and Vette that originally came w/run-flat tires that I've replaced w/non run-flats. I carry an emergency spare in the trunk of my BMW ut I just have a compressor and can of tire inflator in the Vette.
Haven't had to use any of this stuff yet and hopefully never will in the future either.
One problem is that while the C2 cars have a fully inflated space-saver spare, the C4S has a folding spare, which is origami collapsed on the wheel, and needs inflated once mounted. TireRack has space-saver spares, but they only have articles about what a folding-spare is, not the actual tires. I kind of wonder, since they are completely uninflated, if a tire shop could even mount a new folding spare on the rim. They usually use air pressure to seat the bead.
So, as b3freak suggested, if the spare doesn't deflate properly, I guess I'll just get an ebay used replacement. (~$300)
I used the collapsible spare a few years back when I blew a rear. After use, I unscrewed/removed the valve stem core to get all the air out. Let the tire sit overnight. It collapsed back to prior size then I put it back it the frunk. I checked it for dry rot and it was in good shape with no cracking for being 13 or 14 years old at the time. I wouldn't do any heavy driving on one but that goes for any donut spare.
It's a funny little lopsided tire for sure.
Made a deal for my dream wheels... I'll likely have to re-barrel (hint) them to get them to fit under the fenders but man am I happy. Pick up this weekend.
JBSL the 4S looks great, been trying to get the stripe guy to answer my e mail about the stripe, not luck yet, got the same black wheels for my C2 but I am going to run 295/30/19 11in x 65 offset wheels in the rear with 235/40/18 8.5in x 43 offsetwheels in front, and install a Feal coil over set up, also going to dye the convertible top from light grey to black, finally got the dye from the UK, will post up pic's when done.
Let the listing for my 2000 C4 Cab expire. Got a few nibbles but nothing came of them.
Rather keep the car than sell it for less than what I think it's worth. Besides, now's not the best time of year to try to sell a convertible.
So, will wait until the spring to relist it.
^^^ Yeah, it's clearly subjective but I think the consensus is that Maxflo's "aren't too loud"... I suppose the 200 cell cats do add to the overall loudness, and lets face it - all that matters is what your wife thinks !
Sitting pretty! Two things: what suspension are you running? I like the exhaust tips and have been wanting to do something with the chrome ones on my car...did you powder coat black?
I have Maxflos, and I wish they were a little louder.
My wife says they're not too loud.
But she doesn't ride with me on long rides.
Getting in and out of the 996 is tough on her knees, plus my suspension is set a bit too stiff for her.
I could adjust the suspension, but she rarely rides with me(maybe once every year) so I don't think about it until we're on our way somewhere.
Most of the time when we go somewhere together we're in her Honda Odyssey.
It is MUCH more comfortable for her so I leave the 996 at home.
Where did you find that?
I have a large jumpstarter that I carry in my frunk along with a large set of tools and jumper cables, and a spare tire, and an air compressor, and...
I wouldn't mind something like that in my glovebox.
Maxflows and Cats aren�t obnoxious but they�re always on. And the combo might be too loud for the track; I�ll find out Tuesday. I drive my car hard so it gets annoying at times. At least with the fisters I�m hoping to have control when they�re on.
Unpacked the spark plugs, tubes and coil packs I ordered. I can find nothing in the paperwork showing they've been replaced so I decided to them as a preventative measure while the car is in the air for its annual oil change.
As an added bonus, it's supposed to cool down over the weekend before we're back in the '90s next week.
I ordered these standoffs for the heatshields to compensate for the larger coil packs. Hopefully they get here tomorrow.
Winner.
Picked up a set of E88's with so-so R888R... 11HRS in the car to somewhere in NY and back - long day.
18X9 44 With 245x40
18X12 Gotta be a 40 something, not sure yet... with 305x35
As expected, rears will have to be re-barreled... Not sure if I'm going to be able to make an 18X12 setup work or if I'll have to go to an 18x11.
So, teaser for all - I need to get them cleaned up, they're filthy and get the barrels and lips on order... so it will be a bit until I get them on for good.
***Car is on the ground in pics...not supported by jack***
Not much more than stock (with stock cats) but a real nice growl when you get on it! Got some 200 cell cats sitting in a box that I want to ad but I don't want to wake the neighbors at 6am.
Stand-offs like this are a great idea.
Also, I hate when people get on and keyboard-warrior out a criticism and the "obvious", "best" solution. So take what I say as just a general friendly discussion point, and with a grain of salt.
I have tried to avoid using stainless steel directly on the aluminum block. The dissimilar metals (especially with water, salt, and heat) can lead to galvanic corrosion. Aluminum is very Anodic (-0.8 to -1.0) and in contact with Stainless Steel (0 to -0.2) the Aluminum is the anode and will corrode away. Zinc plated steel (galvanized steel, like the standard hardware) is usually better in this case, because zinc is even more negative (-1.0) than aluminum, and so it will instead act as the anode and it will corrode away instead, preserving the aluminum. I would rather have my cheap hardware corrode than the aluminum block.
That said, both aluminum and Stainless steel self-passivate. That is, aluminum oxidizes to aluminum oxide which is an insulating layer, and stainless steel also forms a thin chromium oxide layer. So in most cases they hold up well, but if the oxide layers are scratched and can't re-oxidize independently (like in threads between a bolt and the block) then they are active surfaces and will have active galvanic corrosion. I don't know enough to say if this would be a significant issue in 1 year, or in 100 years, it depends on specific temperature, water, salt, contact area, etc. So maybe I shouldn't worry about it!
For me, zinc plated is good. For instance, I initially though to look for stainless steel clamps to attach my stainless Cats, but that would technically corrode the aluminum mounting points. So, with galvanized clamps (thick zinc coating), the stainless cat is happy (cathodic), the aluminum block is happy (cathodic), and the zinc plated clamp will rust away like hell (anodic). But that's ok, they're cheap, and what would exhaust work be if there weren't broken bolts to deal with?
General galvanic corrosion:
https://www.engineeringclicks.com/galvanic-series/
Quick mention of stainless on aluminum plate:
https://www.fastenal.com/en/70/corrosion
And an example forum posting of someone with a sailboat with an aluminum mast and stainless hardware:
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...el-176607.html
^ Well as luck would have it I can't find any SS ones in Canada or that can be shipped to Canada within a month. But I could find zinc-plated steel. What about aluminum?
My slightly educated opinion (Man, everybody has one... But, I assure you, mine doesn't stink.) is that aluminum might be fine, but unnecessarily expensive, the standard galvanized stuff holds up well. And zinc and aluminum are very close (delta 0.2) in their galvanic index, so any galvanic corrosion is actually quite slow. Even in saltwater environments it is recommended to keep dissimilar metals in contact to within about 0.2.
I guess if I were being especially pedantic, I would discuss Galling, but that wouldn't likely be an issue in this application (Identical metals cold-welding threads together. Stainless, aluminum, and titanium are especially susceptible, but that's usually with high load, speed, and/or heat when fastening. That's definitely not this application, and it's also prevented with anti-sieze or loctite.)
Replaced the missing oil tube holder on the airbox (+50hp). Replaced the plastic Tiptronic shifter triangular thingy (+25hp) and cleaned my airbox (+75 hp)
This was my alternative to the stand offs. No better or worse, just different. I wanted to go to a stud style mount for ease of assembly. You don't have to try to locate the hole while in an awkward position. I got short sections of zinc plated all thread and used an aluminum female threaded standoff as a spacer. I've since bought nylock nuts to replace the flanged m6 nuts I had at the time, but it's worth mentioning that the M6 nuts have shown no signs of backing off since they're serrated. Everything shown below was purchased from McMaster as well.
I did the garage door opener hack today. I don't solder much, but did manage to solder wires to a mini garage door opener and crimp the female spade connectors on the other end. Used the PASM connector for lights.
Works like a charm and looks factory.
Installed the Pioneer last year along with the dual USB outlet.
Hear hear. I was thinking it, but didn�t have the courage to speak up, so thank you for doing so, I am slightly ashamed that I didn�t. I�ve watch these ladies several times on YT, and every time I learn something. They�re no different than any other car YouTuber�they all have their own idiosyncratic ways. If you don�t approve, then don�t say anything. Why slight someone unnecessarily?
Thank you again for speaking up.
Today was outer tie rods. Now its in for the alignment.
Next will be the trailing control arms. Those things are floppy after 17 years. Also making plans for the transmission mount.....
Do you have a photo of the damage? I have a bit of PO carnage to address, mild but annoying. It is hard to detect but would like to hear what you had done and what to expect for cost.
I should have taken a picture but didn�t think of it at the time. Sorry! The inner bead ring basically had a flat spot. About 8� long. I am at a loss on how they got the tire to seal let alone balance. Almeida's Wheel Repair in Norwell Mass did the repair. He has a digital straitening machine that worked great. He usually charges $150 to straiten and $175 to refinish. He had my wheel for a week after saying I could have it in two days. He got slammed for business that week and felt bad so charged me $195 total.
I also told him I would be bringing the other three in in the spring for refinish due to the fact I will be getting new tires.
Believe me, that was a big consideration. I am very familiar the issue
. I'm a lifelong sailboat racer and professionally, I'm in the business of moving large amounts of water through pipes.
I'm going full geek with this and trying brass as well as stainless. I will also be using two different anti-seize compounds. I'll check them in 6-8 months to see which combo is working best.
Yes, the stainless are McMaster-Carr and the brass ones are from Ebay China.
This 12 metre I was sailing lost the mast because of a rigging failure due to corrosion. Aluminum hull/mast with titanium rigging.
Poor cathodic protection on one of our pipelines.
I drove mine about 70 miles today.
I also ordered some stainless steel standoffs from McMaster-Carr.
No salt worries down here so hopefully I won’t have any issues.
During the restoration of my dads 912e we decided to replace the rear reflector as it was broken and fairly brittle even though the new plastic stands out a little. I had the idea to backlight the old one with led strips and give it to him as a birthday present. It was more involved than I thought since the reflector is supposed to reflect not allow light through and the leds were a little harsh looking when shown directly through the plastic. So I scrapped off the reflective surface, added several layers of distorted plastic and reversed the led strips into a layer of aluminum foil. Here�s the finished product.
Very cool. Nice sailboats too.
I really look forward to what you find out.
Is there a reason you aren't testing zinc plated or aluminum? I guess McMaster doesn't have appropriate zinc, but they do have have aluminum. But, I absolutely don't have the experience you do.
I have always wanted to do the console delete in my car - but the part isn't available in Natural Brown. I decided to order the part in Savannah Beige and get a local interior shop (Ian's Automotive in Vegas) to dye the console delete to match Natual Brown. If dying it didn't work - I was going to have them re-cover it with Natural Brown leather.
I was very happy with how it came out. It was going to be difficult to make it a 1000% match, but it is pretty damn close for a dye-job!
I've only taken a short drive so far - but inital impressions: it's a totally different driving position and feel. SOOOO much more leg room. I am planing a long drive this weekend to test out all that new leg room!
before and afters....
That looks great!
Took my car in for service since I have a repeat code (probably due to the Fabspeed exhaust) and a coolant leak.
They also said the key was sticking a bit. I've only owned the car for a couple weeks and have not noticed it. I declined that work for now to look into it a bit more. They say the cylinder is bad, but I've done some research on here and see a common replacement is the switch itself? Watched some DIY videos as well.. When I look up parts it's either the black switch that the harness goes into or the entire metal assembly. Thoughts on how you'd tackle?
Here is my estimate:
I need to do this, and I've read alot of threads about it, but I can't figure out from them if this adjustment can be made from the bottom access holes, or if I need to remove the door card and adjust the window brackets. Which did you use?
If you only need to raise/lower the glass, you can do that from the bottom of the door through the access plugs. Just get the window all the way down, look for the E6 bolts, and remember that they are left hand threaded, not right hand.
If, however, you need to move the window glass forward or backward in the car, then you have to take off the door card on the inside. There are again some access plug covers which hide the T30 bolts that loosen the glass in their clamps. Just loosen these bolts (don�t remove) and slide the glass either direction. You do not need to remove the inner door moisture barrier to do this adjustment.
With either adjustment, be sure to mark the window position with tape so you can keep track of how much/which direction you need to move or have moved the glass. That will save you much frustration later.
Installed these aftermarket headlights a few weeks ago and then added an HID low beam kit. For some reason, now the high beams won't come on, so I'm sleuthing that down. Really happy with the look of it and the projectors work great, but in need of minor adjustment. Big improvement in lighting.
You have to do special wiring to get DRL to work on older cars...
Pretty pleased.
Easy to install, pretty much plz and play, HID kit was more effort.
Seals they provided are awful so I'm getting my own aftermarket sourced seals. Really happy otherwise.
Did some light polishing with Sonax Perfect Finish then followed up with two coats of Pinnacle Sovereign wax then some P&S Bead Maker to top it all off. Can’t really capture the glossiness in pics but it’s silky!!!
Good idea on declining the work...seems a bit extreme to me.
Also, they should give you a time/labor estimate, right? Why are they lumping it into one charge?
Probably worth doing the O2 sensor and hose but cost seems high for each. Ask for the breakdown of parts/labor and get alternate bids from other shops to see how they match up.
O2 sensor is simple.
Buy a 22mm wrench at Home Depot for $7.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/202916173
That’s all you need.
I have special O2 sockets, but I just use an open end wrench on 996s.
For my first project with my recently-acquired
99, I decided for an easy win and replaced the speakers (base system). It was an easy win thanks to Rod at CAI who supplied the speakers mounted in adaptor rings and necessary hardware (even the drill bit!). I also picked up some wiring adapters from Crutchfield. The job went without a hitch which is rare for me because I am frankly useless with tools. The stock speakers were beyond shot...amazing they made any sound at all.
do you mind me asking what speakers and connector part numbers/ description you used?
i am thinking I might tackle this too.
Want company is CAI?
Thanks
Thanks for the replies! I did decline the work on the ignition. I may see if it gives me any trouble and try to tackle. I just picked the car up a couple weeks ago and had it shipped to me. Also wanted to get it looked over in more detail at the dealer to start getting a relationship there. There is a good Indy near me so just wanted to get this out of the way first. I think my Fabspeed exhaust is causing the issues though. Fabspeed headers, OEM cats and Fabspeed catback exhaust.
More detailed estimate coming mid this week.
Beer on me :beer:
This is the DIY video I found from a member on here. Is this what it looks like they are referring to? I'll ask too once I pick the car up later this week.
You Tube
it slides on the shift rod then locks with set screws. You then thread on the lock nut and ball. Then lock it in place with nut. Im getting a new boot that will fit better then the stock one.
https://raceseng.com/media/pdf/porsc...87-adapter.pdf
So after 220,000 thousand miles my engine died in my 2001 Carrera C2, not sure what when down with it. After looking at all the options and seeing that a real upgraded engine is 35K without installation. To do it right would run 42K it was a no go. I looked around and found 3.4 with 60K and it checked out with very little bore scoring. But I wanted to see if I could get more power out of the 3.4 Engine. So here is the parts list:
IDP Plenum with 82mm GT3 throttle body
Flat Six intake tube
Lightweight Flywheel with Stage 2+ Clutch
Lightweight pully
RSS Tarmac Series Performance Engine Mounts
Soul Performance competition headers
Soul Performance 200 Cell Cats
Agency Power Exhaust Mufflers
BMC High Performance Air Filter
Softronic Engine Tune
With all the manufacturers parts claims I should be running 50 more HP!
Does the little 3.4 produce that much? I don't think so not even close maybe 25 tops. Is it faster? Hell to the Yeah. Revs are quick,3rd though 6th is very fast with strong pulls, almost a Turbo lite power band. The sound of it breathing before the installation of the exhaust system was really cool. Whether its worth it to spend 20k on a used engine and upgrades is debatable. If I get 220K out of it it will be a cheap ride, so far I love the results.
I found out they are a little noisy while in neutral, it rattles. My mechanic took the transmission out of it when he heard it, should of surfed you tube, It seem common on all cars with LWF. Mine does not do it when cold. When driving or soon as you push in the clutch it goes away. I think the performance is worth the little noise. I can't hear it as much with the new exhaust. I got the SPEC flywheel with the SPEC Stage 2+ clutch. Revs are much quicker.
Added a manual switch to turn on the cooling fans.
This took awhile to learn do as we were not sure how to do it. Had to teach ourselves about making circuit boards, using diodes, transistors, relays etc, in order to make this one work. Seemed simple, but it wasn't - not with the OEM switch we decided to use. Was
a lot more work and know-how than I figured. Whether or not it was needed was not the point. I wanted to see if it could be done, and in the end we did! It works, and its cool. I like how it turned out! It was fun figuring this one out.
So the rotary switch now has a fan symbol instead of a headlight symbol. It lights up the same colour as the rest of the buttons in the car (we changed all interior button from orange to blue) when the headlights are turned on. To turn on the low speed fans, rotate the dial up and the symbol lights up yellow. Turn it down for the high speed (and the engine fan as well) and it turns red. Getting the lights to work was the hardest part to figure out.
The automatic function of the fans is not affected by this at all. In fact, the indicator lights will turn on when the car switches the fans on, so you can tell when the high or low speeds are on, which is cool.
Anyway, It was fun learning about how to make this work as intended. We briefly looked at using Arduino to do this (and it probably would have been better to go that route), but stuck to using relays and diodes to do this. I'll post a how to if anyone wants to know how it was done.
I posted the instructions on how to do this here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ling-fans.html
If you are not comfortable with electronics and fine soldering, custom circuit board, and custom wiring, then this is not for you.
Replaced the oil filler tube this evening. Not that bad. New alternator came out with only a couple of taps on the bolt, couple of ipa�s and Steely Dan on the iPhone. I don�t believe any expletives were said. 1/4 inch ratchet and gear wrench (10mm) did the job.
Got properly initiated into the Porsche club by getting my first CEL. Looks like P0442 which seems to be pointing to the EVAP system. Somewhat ironically it came up about quarter of a tank later after I added the Driven Injector Defender.
^^^ Good luck with that! ^^^ Since I spent almost all of the summer working on my misfires (and a bunch of other "while I was at it" type of things), I've been driving the hell out of it for the past 3-4 weeks... I'm still bummed that I "missed" the summer driving season, but given the whole covid situation it gave me plenty of time to work on it... I suppose overall it was a wash. Really enjoying driving it now. I'll be putting the winter wheels on this week (never got to refinish them, which was the original plan for the summer...
).
Thats funny, I got a CEL the other day - P0455 - evaporative emission system leak detected (large leak). It was after some spirited driving with a different gas cap. I put the old cap on and haven�t had that CEL come back, but I suspect I might have a leak because I smelled gasoline after parking the car.
I think my code is for a small leak but might just get a new gas cap as it's cheap and hope that fixes it. Mine happened pretty early into the drive at a low speed.
Didn't really do anything but I did pick it up. Loving it so far. Was originally looking for a C2 Aero car but the widebody won me over (will compliment my RS4 nicely).
Congrats! I saw this car for sale not too far from me and it looks like it went fast! I like the color a lot. Hope you got a PPI and have many miles of fun driving ahead of you.
I tried to jack up my car today to change the coils. It did not go well. I had had to buy a low-profile jack because my car is lowered. So I jacked up the front left at the jack point, but it didn't lift the rear nearly high enough to slip my jack stand under. Then I used the rear jack point (ahead of the rear wheels) but even as high as it could go was not quiiiiiiite high enough to slip the jack stand under the rear suspension mounting point, I have the ESCO jack stands that go as low as 13", but clearly I need the low-profile ones that go to as low as 11". Luckily I can return the former to amazon as they were obviously not used to support my car. Maybe I'll just get some ramps...I'm in a hurry because the car goes into storage Friday.
My car is also lowered and i jack it up enough with a low jack to slide a block under the each wheel, now the car is high enough to use a jack with a block to get it high enough for the jack stands..
I had a similar issue when mines was on lowering springs and my jack wouldn't fit. I got 4 wooden blocks and drove over them and was able to get a jack under there. For more height, as mentioned above, place a wooden or rubber block if space is available when sliding in the jack. Another way was to jack that brace from under the engine somewhere.
I do have a rubber puck I use for jacking up another car...I�ll try that. Thanks!
The good thing is that I took the opportunity to swap the wheels and tires to my storage set. So I had a chance to look at the suspension for the first time since I got the car in the summer. Everything�s actually looked awesome...solid and the rubber around the bushings was intact and pliable. The only thing I could move was the driver side front drop link at the top, so maybe that�s the source of my clunk. I assume the upper shock mounts are OK as the PO installed lowering springs recently, though since he left bump stops that were basically trash I have to wonder. The only other things were that the grommets holding on the ABS sensor wires were either missing or disintegrating. The having it stored at a local Porsche specialist and they offer a free inspection, so I know I�ll have lots to do in the spring.
Yeah, probably won't feel it much but rumor is that it does make a difference and that, in fact, it was required for the 997 Cup cars?
So put that in your pipe. Plus easy and can't hurt.
Sadly, I had to deliver up my car for winter storage today
It's gonna be a long 5 months. The last project I managed to get to was to install my new head unit. It is a Sony DSX-GS80. I picked this one because it has (a) a 4 X 45W amp, more than enough to power the four 4+ Hertz CX100 speakers I have; (b) it has a rear USB (which thus far didn't actually work with my iPhone grrrr); (c) it has preamp outputs for a future subwoofer (I will bolt a small powered sub in the passenger footwell, and I've pre-installed the RCA cables so I don't have to remove the head unit); and (d) it has a subdued appearance that fits in well with the rest of the dash. The amber colour matches pretty well with the stock as well (Red 26 Green 10 Blue 0 IIRC). I'll have to wait until spring to really dial in the sound and sort through the rest of the features.
I got it from Rennline.
https://www.rennline.com/Rennline-St...o/SB62/SILVER/
After I bought it, I found what appears to be the same brace for $75.00 cheaper here:
https://www.racdyn-usa.com/PROD/996+99+00+010.html
Wonder if there is any difference as there are those two black bracing bars installed from the factory. Go take that thing around some twisties and report back
I am also in the First settlers, I have yet to go to an event. My car has been an on going project the past 2 years so I haven�t had a fun car to take. I do however live in north side about 15 mins from Joe�s inn, and plan on going to some events once I finish this car up.
This oddly enough is stock springs. I did have 15mm spacers on the rear and 13mm spacers on the front at the time. Since then I have installed H&R lowering springs because I got them from a fellow member for a steal. I do however want to eventually upgrade to coil overs.
Stafford is a great area. I am often up in the norther Va area for work
Repaired both of these today. Radio whine was just from loose connections at the amp. But I also took the time to ensure the power and speaker wires were properly separated.
I also took the time to get the gas flap locking again. Just took a small grommet to get the locking arm to line up correctly with the flap. All good now.
Rolled rear fenders to make some more clearance for the E88's and 305's. The pass side cut into the tire on a short drive right after I mounted them so step 1 was getting the fenders rolled.
I have no idea if the fender roll is enough cause its either rained, or snowed here for the past week so no testing today. Hopefully I'll get a chance to get the car out before real weather sets in and toss it around a bit to see if it still rubs.
Regardless, another half degree or so of camber will be dialed in next alignment - hopefully that will ensure full suspension travel and be where the R comps are happiest, win/win.
Finally got the brake fluid flush off my to-do list. Looks like it was really needed. Used Pentosin Dot 4. Do any types come green originally, or was mine just that bad?
Old (left), New (right).
Lot's of water (>4%). I don't have records of when/if it had been replaced.
It was very easy using the power bleeder.
NIce work! Green is bad. Mine was the same. I will flush again shortly (6 months) to make sure all of the old is out of nooks and crannies. Then start the 2 year cycle.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/CdCSTq.jpg
Just picked up a 2000 c2 cab few weeks ago. I am very excited to give the car a little refresh in a few department. One of them I feel it�s the headlights. Most 996 pictures I see have yellow or dull headlights which really take away the appearance of the car. So I bought a pair of fresh litronic to upgrade my halogen. I cannot wait to put them on. Will be going to the shop to apply a uv film.
My current headlight
Old
Wow that's a pricey fix for a simple yellow lens issue, but definitely a nice upgrade. Did you get the retro-fit kit or just the litronic headlights themselves? Did you consider just doing an HID upgrade?
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ing_System.htm
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart..._Headlamps.htm
I got a great deal thus why I pull the trigger. Sanding and applying coating works but nothing like a brand new headlight lens plus I want an actual hid projector. Currently putting a llumar flim on the headlights while it�s nice and fresh. I will see how much I can get from the used headlights. At the end of the day, my difference should be around $650-700 usd without the flim cost.
Have not look into the retrofit to get all the function to work. Most likely won�t do it depending how long I will be keeping the car.
Unboxed the Aero Kit i bought. All this in one box. Definitely not mint, but given how hard it has been to get even the Taco spoiler, I was thrilled to find everything from one person.
Old Dominion. The seller made the box out of a couple of smaller boxes duct taped together. He was kind enough to do it even though he originally only wanted to sell locally. I have been looking for a while and never dared hope for a complete kit but got lucky I guess.
^^^ Great score... I've never been a fan of the Taco (or really any of the rear "wings") but to get a complete factory aero-kit is rare indeed! I've been trying to find a set of good used side skirts forever... Is your car silver as well?
Yes it is but I will likely have them painted anyway. There are some irregularities that will need to be addressed which will likely result in painting eventually. Still happy to have the foundation to build on.
Pulled the rear window regulator and rebuilt it with a kit.
Complete pain in the *** since the window got stuck in the down position.
Also replaced the battery with an Optima yellow.
Installed a Schnell Short Shift kit with a round shifter that I installed a Momo shift **** on. The shifts are definitely shorter and it all feels crisp sitting in my garage but I had two beers During the install so saving the test drive for the morning.
Went for a drive today, battery is starting to go so that will get replaced this week. Also pulled out the parcel shelf of the hardtop to clean it and the glass before it goes on for the winter. Looks a lot better, was surprised how easy it was, just 6 clips to pop out.
Could have used the wagon but it was fun to put all our equipment in the car. Meant we could get in some fun seat time on the Blue Ridge Parkway before disappearing into the woods for the weekend and do the same on Sunday morning. Best part was a backpacking foursome telling us that we had inadvertently parked in an overnight lot and the scenic overlook down the road a little bit.
Found why my brake light fuse burnt: The 3rd brake light wire below the convertible top flap was cooked by the California weather.
I had to replace the wire up to the connector.
Took it for a spirited drive to try out the new GoPro and discovered two things I can't put off any longer.
Number one is to install the plugs and coil packs that have been sitting on the bench for a month and a half.
And number two is to get a haircut. I normally go high n' tight and it's gotten out of control.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSOeZQOcBqU
Replaced the completely dead battery. Also have new engine and gear oil along with an orange Function First trans mount going in now. I’m hoping to put some miles on it with the new trans mount before I stash it for the winter.
Clutch and pressure plate job the last two days. Pain in the *** trying this alone with jacks and stands on the floor...Got a good 15hrs into this project! Next time I'll drop the motor with the trans to save time.
Oil Change - Back to the street oil until the spring comes back and I can go back to XP9... Sad. Cut and inspected the filter and it looked perfect so we're going into the winter with a pretty healthy motor.
And a picture from the last track day of the season...
I took mine for a quick drive which including a stop at the gas station.
when I got home, I decided I�d go ahead and tackle replacing the emergency fuel door release.
I�ve had the replacement for months/years.
It was not a tough job.
But I wouldn�t tackle it, or fuel door latch replacement without a set of stubby Torx bits.
Here�s a �normal� T20 next to the �stubby� T20.
I don�t know that it can be done without a stubby Torx set.
Put on a ceramic coat. I use The Last Coat which is a spray on wipe off formula and really easy to apply. Has to be reapplied at least twice a year but only take a half hour to do. Car shines now. Also replaced the rear speakers. One was blown and to make sure they match I replaced the pair. Sounds great again with the Pioneer AVIC8200 head unit.
Funny - I made a video and brought up that exact scenario...
TLDW (watch) Drill a couple extra holes next to standard drain.
Skip to 0:58 as YT won't link to the spot for some reason.
You Tube
Finally! FINALLY!
F I N A L L Y!!!
Last weekend when I was working on my car, I finally found and eliminated the rattling noise that I was certain was coming from under the dash.
I pulled apart most of the dash looking for it.
I remove the entire console looking for it.
I even removed door sill plastic pieces trying to find it.
I removed the passenger door panel thinking the window regulator might have come loose.
I'm half deaf, so I couldn't figure out where it was coming from, but I COULD hear it and not being able to find it was driving me up the wall.
I hoped I'd found it when I fixed both blend doors...nope.
It was not inside the car, but in the front right wheel well the whole time.
I hate to admit it, but it was self-induced.
But all that matters is now (confirmed by a quick test drive this evening) the rattle is Gone, GONE,
GONE!
The culprit?
What stupid idiot left that on the Feal coilovers when he replaced the rotors & pads? ...
New amp install to my C2 996. My car doesn't have the Bose pack, so I installed alpine speakers in the original spaces, dash and rear. I had an old phoenix gold amp powering them, but it eventually stopped working. This Alpine 4 channel sounds so much better. I need to spend some time at the weekend fixing it down with Velcro and tidying the wires.
Took off the front bumper today to search for the very slow leak in my A/C system. Had dye put into the system a few months ago and had hoped to see some indication with a black light around the condensers but alas no luck. I even started it up to get the system running and sniffed around with my amazon-special halogen gas sniffer but again nothing. If you have ideas, let me know.
As long as I was in there I cleaned out a few handfuls of detritus between the condensers and the radiators, relocated the frunk pull cable to the toe hook hole, and succeeded in putting everything back together with leftover screws.
Since you have the car in the air and a sniffer handy, take the panels off and sniff at the condensation drain for the evaporator. Freon is heavy and will go downward. You may even can use the black light to check for stains there. Then of course just check all the hoses , connections, and compressor for any leak..
Yes! I should've done that. It's my daily driver so things are put back together but I think it's easy to get to those lower panels. I'm running out of ideas to check where the leak may be and the evaporator and drain are good spots. I've checked every hose and connection I can get to as well as the compressor but nothing so far. I'll report back after following through on your suggestion. Cheers
Easy way to check for evap leaks: Before shutting the car off turn the fan all the way OFF. Let sit overnight. In the morning close all the vents EXCEPT for one of the center vernts. Start the car with the fan OFF. Stick the leak detector probe in the vent that's open as far as it will go. Turn the fan on LOW. This blows all the air out of the evap into the leak detector.
Easy way to check for compressor seal leaks, which are quite common with these Sanden compressors: Take the drive belt off. Attach a ladies' shower cap, the kind that's thin plastic with an elastic edge, around the compressor drive pulley. Let sit overnight. In the morning, stick the leak detector probe inside the shower cap.
My 996 tried to kill me, ala Christine.
I was putting a box of wine in the frunk when the cover came down and dug right into my shoulder.
Better than my head!
Time for some new frunk struts...
Wow
@dporto
got me thinking on that steering wheel!
Speaking of interior, debating on some things while the car is down for winter. Only pic I have at the moment. When I bought my car it came with the original radio unit but installed is this Pioneer aftermarket double din unit that I hate. I am wanting to remove it and replace the stock radio since I really never have it on anyway. Just really hope everything is in tact back there and not tore up on the harness.
Option 1:
Relocate radio up (and maybe HVAC) back to OEM location and get a blank storage compartment from Suncoast to fill the bottom void
Option 2:
Relocate radio up as well as HVAC and get the savannah beige GT3 delete for the lower half.
Current pic
Drove it around for about 50 miles.
Got a low oil warning.
Bought 1 qt Mobil 1 0-40 ESP at the nearest AutoZone.
Filled up the tank but unintentionally "overfilled" it.
Drove it an extra 25 miles to burn off the overflow until I saw the fuel gauge drop, so that it wouldn't mess up the breather valve and fuel gauge as I did doing that before.
Did an AOS pressure check when I got back home. 4.73-4.85 in/H20 - right on the mark.
Added the qt of Mobil 1 0-40 to the engine. Checked my records and only 270 miles driven since the last oil chg a couple of months ago.
Last time I added a qt was after a yr and over 1200 miles of driving. No visible oil leaks or smoke from engine. So, my conclusion is that the shop that did the last oil change must have underfilled it, which is a concern but not a problem.
Will keep an eye on it but shouldn't need another qt of oil for another 1.2k+ miles or 10 months (when next oil chg is due) whichever comes 1st.
Picked up the car after having the top replaced. No more delaminating window or plastic window, no more faded worn top. Also applied Cquartz fabric guard on it and solution finish to the trim along the edges.
Little project from a couple months ago that I've finally been able to put to use. My pup is little too big for the either the seat or foot well, so I made him a platform (that also manages to protect the leather). Used marine carpet. If I were to do it again, I'd use a lighter wood, and maybe some kind of spray on rubber rather than carpet. Also using this tether to keep him a little more secure:
Amazon
Amazon
3/4" is definitely overkill and heavy.
Contoured around the seat bolsters and lower center console, and a cutout for seat belt receptacle.
He was a little unsure at first.
But has settled in nicely.
His hair was going to collect somewhere. At least its easy to vacuum (or remove).
.
Nice!
Does the top still open and close perfectly? I had mine replaced and I now have to pull down and get the latch in there. Maybe the guy didn't calibrate something? He says it's because the material is super tight, but I dunno...
Love your license plate, BTW.
Love the dog seat. I think there�s dog hair in our Porsche and neither dog has been in there yet. Can�t say I�ve done much with mine other than take it to the dentist last week and move it out of the garage to get the trash cans out. Weathers going to be warm enough to drive over the weekend so I intend to try to get it out for some exercise.
What are people planning for winter repairs or projects?
I'm not an expert in reversing this mod, but I did the reverse of what you are looking to do to my 2004 and there was cutting involved. I'm not sure how easy it is to go back. I have a buddy with a pristine 996TT that he wanted a newer radio in and he liked my install. He asked me about doing his but I told him no, I'm not taking a hacksaw to your car. You might contact cai-store.com and ask them. They sold me the kit for mine and are experts in the 996 with regard to all things audio.
Here you go. I decided to stay with the Double DIN after all. The new needed parts are pretty cheap.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ingle-din.html
Well bought some tools for my motor out maintenance this winter. Local hb finally had a lift table in stock and i couldnt pass up the cute jack for $80 for a track jack.
Off came the bumper, separated the A/C condensers from the radiators and cleaned everything out really well. I found a very nice piece of black painted screen at the local Home Depot in the roof/gutter area. This material was a bit stiff to work with but a bit of bending and cutting it went well enough. I've included the Sku from the piece I bought, it was $3.09 so the cost for the project using 6 zip ties was maybe $3.50. I have a small bottle of touch up paint and painted the zip ties to match the body when I was all done. Very pleased with how well it came out and am certain it will help keep a lot of crap from getting in to the condenser/radiator areas. Went for a nice drive after I finished...I think the car goes faster now...could just be me though...
Front bumper be gone!
The sku for the piece of screen I bought at Home Depot.
All done!
I used the same exact mesh and while it worked great for the center vent on the turbo style bumper the larger side openings were too big for the grille. I had to piece them temporarily and it looks ok but will try to search for something like that in larger sheets and re-do. Nicely done and it looks perfect on the regular bumper.
You know what? I haven't dropped it yet, I was going to do the other day because I was working on restoring my hard top since its something that has never been done but didn't get a chance to put it on yet. Everything seems to line up well and look good.
No pictures but I installed new frunk struts. Swapped out the clutch pedal booster spring. The effort isn’t much harder but is consistent through the whole range. Feels like a normal clutch. I also washed, clay barred, buffed and applied ceramic coating to the hard top. I did the rest of the car this summer. I’m not sure if the top had ever been taken care of before. I picked it up used last winter.
After two years of ownership finally took the time to do some restorative work on the hard top. Since it only goes on during the winter it hasn't been a huge priority. Its still got some bumps and bruises but paint correction and Opti-Coat Pro+ has it looking a lot better.
While the weather was warm enough yesterday, took a drive to collect some tools and materials left at a couple of job sites. Sent a check to another member who made a me an offer I couldn�t resist on some used mufflers and some supplies.
I installed some FunctionFirst orange transmission mount inserts this morning.
My transmission mount was in excellent condition. (that was nice to find out, otherwise I was going to have to replace it first)
Since upgrading my shifter to a 997 GT3 shifter and adding a FunctionFirst shift ****, and replacing engine mounts, and installing a G-Box, I’ve been very happy with the shifting feel.
But there is a slight resistance to go into first gear when the transmission is cold. (Only when temps are below 60�, which isn’t very often down here)
I re-aligned the shifter a few months ago to see if that would resolve it. (I had to wait until this weekend to see if it fixed it)
The FF Orange inserts didn’t change the shifting feel.
Cold, there is still a slight resistance to go into 1st gear the first time.
There is increased engine noise, which I like.
I don’t notice any increase in vibration or harshness.
Got rid of the useless CD holder and put in a USB/Socket/Voltmeter from eBay. I think it maintains the 30 year old styling in the 20 year old car. A BT/FM transmitter will go in the socket and I need to pick a phone mount, maybe a magnet type.
I made the decision to keep my car forever apparently. My 2004 C4s developed a trans whine at 103k. I was going to pull it but got in there and was worried I was in over my head. I also have two 914's I feel more comfortable working on and they will keep me busy all winter. I had a local trusted indy pull the trans and send it to California Motorsports. The trans was in bad shape based on the pics I saw from the inspection. It is rebuilt and back at the shop. They will do some while they are in there stuff. New clutch, replace the IMS bearing that was an early LN ball bearing with a roller set up. It has a rusty rear brake line. That is getting replaced. I had sourced some lightly used 996TT shocks and springs a while back. They are going in with new mounts and bearings. It's my DD so I've been driving the big dumb truck every day. Can't wait to get it back.
I have a nearly identical set up and I experience the exact same thing. After a few minutes, once it's warmed up it glides into first gear. I have been debating swapping over to a factory SSK console or possibly a Numeric with cables. Not so much to resolve that issue because it's minimal but I kind of want a shorter throw.
I received and installed my Fabspeed exhaust tips today.
Man was it a pain to figure out how they go on.
I wasn't certain which was left and which was right.
Looking at pictures online, it appears that they've redesigned the tips.
Properly angling the exhaust pipe with the flange took a lot of trial and error.
I fiddled around and 30 minutes later I had the left one on.
It still looks like it sets too low. (Kinda looks like my motor mounts need to be replaced)
After another 10 minutes of fiddling I had the right one on.
They're not even, but I had to stop due to late night work.
I hope to get back out to the garage so I can get them even, and tightened.
The left one is not fitting as well left to right as the right one.
Both set lower than the stock tips.
I expected them to fit perfectly since I have FabSpeed Maxflows and x-pipe.
Those fit better IMHO.
Edited: Once I got off work, I adjusted them some more.
I think they look better now.
Yes, my 996 is in BAD need of a bath.
Maybe I'll do that this weekend.
[QUOTE=jhynesrockmtn;17064041] I had a local trusted indy pull the trans and send it to California Motorsports. The trans was in bad shape based on the pics I saw from the inspection. It is rebuilt and back at the shop. They will do some while they are in there stuff.
[/QUOTE
What's the tranny rebuild going to run, $3500?
Added Coco mats to break up the sea of grey. Heal on the rubber portion takes a little getting used to versus the carpet. Did manage to get 15% off as they were running a sale earlier in November.
Thanks. Judging by your other abilities I imagine you would do it yourself but not sure I'm in that category. Plus I'm fresh out of 20 ton presses that you apparently need to attach or detach some of the gears, gizmos and gadgets.
Nice coco mats. They have style and seem to stand the test of time.
Before
After
I�ve been driving the heck out of the car lately; pretty much a daily driver now. I used to be scared it was a ticking time bomb just waiting for the IMS to explode, but like my license plate says: YOLO. It seems to run better the more it�s driven. Even at 20+ years
old, the handling makes my other rides compare less than favorably.
Box of left over and new to me goodies from a sale of another members car is on the way including a set of Fister mufflers. Christmas present to myself.
it�s about the same as other�s premium fuel. Today $2.39 per gallon. My indie Porsche mechanic said that for this�99, I�m better off with 91 octane ethanol free than using 93 octane with ethanol. So far so good. Three years no issues
Silverbullet & cdidy:
Fixed? Sorry, it�s not fixed right. Process was scuff, primer, paint, clear coat, polish, then wax. Followed the directions from Express Paint using rattle cans. I probably should have used a buffing compound with stronger grit than polish, so lesson learned for next time. I�d say it�s a 3-4 foot job. Any closer and you�d think the car has acne. But I think I color matched pretty well. I�m in Kansas, at least 50 miles away from any decent sized city, so it�s going to keep being exposed to commercial and agricultural vehicles dropping sand, gravel, grain, etc. I used to care, but now . . . eh.
I shopped online for her.. nothing yet. I had a new very early 996 and never thought I'd be chasing another one, but here I am. She's out there, somewhere.
My car needs the bumper and hood resprayed, but like you it's my daily driver so, oh well, I'll never win a concours but this car puts the biggest grin on my face every time I drive it!
1st drive after being out of the USA for 2.5 months:
So nice to drive again after being stuck in a van in Bangkok traffic for 10 weeks. Lower left side of bumper has a new scrape from my son driving the car while I was gone. All in a day of a daily driver...
Some small stuff: change coolant cap to .04: no problems, just updating
Replace license plate light holder that lost it's clippy (sin from previous owner)
And tested crankcase vacuum to know how the AOS is doing: looks like I'm at a limit (AOS has 20K miles) When I had the plenum out, there was a thin layer of oil on the intakes, but no pooling. And the car uses no oil in 5K miles. Seems like these data points should be in conflict.
I was going to measure the blow-by, but I pulled the rookie mistake of breaking the small plastic coolant nipple: DOH!!! What a maroon. So, apologies to Porschetech3. I'm now waiting for the part. Replying to the Blow-by thread will be done early next week.
Belated Happy Thanksgiving to everyone!
I replaced the SAI valves. I also swapped coils with 997-type Bosch units. Previously, I did the plugs, and cracked a couple coils trying to disconnect them. When I do plugs again, I will greatly appreciate the easier to pull newer style! (The coils were also much easier this weekend both because I got a nifty new bit driver and I had pulled the mufflers to have them Gundo modded).
Paul
Low coolant alert briefly flashes, fluid level below minimum mark, took 3 quarts distilled water to fill to max. After 50 mile daily drive found back to minimum. Cap is .03 pn. Fluid yellowish green color, in 12,000 miles since we purchased never had to add.
Left side of engine found tan deposit on hard pipe and some kind of pump? Not directly under coolant reservoir and can't see any leak from it, but tank replacement is probably the solution.
I have experienced a coolant leak from a failing AOS. It was a very minor leak and, maybe like yours, was leaking for some time and left deposits similar (but not as extensive) to what I see in your pics. You might try to get a view above the valve cover to confirm no leaks up there.
"
Left side of engine found tan deposit on hard pipe and some kind of pump?"
That's not a pump that's where the IMS chain runs through the case half (that hexagon thing on the bottom is the chain tensioner)... No idea what that caked up stuff on your crankcase is, but you should clean it off and see if it, or how soon it returns... Good luck
Went to change the oil while parked for the winter and could not get the drain plug out. It started to strip the allen head, so I stopped. Now I am stuck. I don't have any welding equipment (or know-how to weld) and I really don't want to hammer on the drain plug for fear of damaging the oil pan in this wonderful NH cold weather. Grrr......
And double grrr.... as the Porsche gods rewarded me for buying a car with a fresh engine. As mentioned before the tip tranny leaks fluid from a seam in the front case. Well, the last drive before parking it the transmission slipped quite badly when I got on the accelerator. There's nothing like seeing 7k on the tach while still traveling at 50 mph. Now I am waiting for a response from a shop to see if they will take apart and fix the transmission. If they do, then I'll have to pull the engine and tranny and bring just the tranny to them. At least 3 Porsche indy shops in my area don't touch automatic transmissions. It may be the tranny slipped because it is now low on fluid, but I still need to get that leak fixed.
Drop the sump plate and remove the drain plug safely on a workbench. Be sure to clean the old sealant off the plate and under the engine. Add (dab it thin) the proper sealant around the perimeter of the sump plate before remounting to the engine.
If you need a video example, let me know.
Dropping the sump will sure be messy! Even after tipping the pan down a little to get oil out of there I bet quite a bit will still flow once the pan is removed.
Pulx30 - I'll try a triple square first. I hate these drain plugs. The one on the car when I bought it was neither torx or allen head. Nothing fit well in it. I bought replacement drain plugs that are allen head, but neither metric nor standard allen head sockets fit well. It is the replacement that is now rounded out. Full disclosure I probably over tightened it. I misread the torque spec, but stopped well before the wrench clicked. I've done hundreds of oil changes on all different cars and trucks and have never used a torque wrench on a drain plug. I've also never had problems with stripped or overly too tight drain plugs. First time I use the torque wrench on it and screwed it up!
The is another advantage in dropping the sump, and that is, inspection of the oil pickup screen, and potential to remove any debris from it, and from the floor of the pan.
Messy, sure. Large 55-gal garbage bag zip-tied up to headers to catch most or all of it.
Get a hardened magnetic oil drain plug from LN Engineering and be done with this problem forever. Also get the LN Engineering spin on oil filter adapter. These two items will make your life better and your engine happier.
Bought an OEM "indoor" full car cover for my 996 off eBay.
Didn't really "need" it (because I already have a top down interior CoverCraft cover) but it was relatively cheap and was the only one of my 4 "fun" cars that wasn't under a full cover yet. Of course, you get wat you pay for.
The fabric is a bit rough but I plan to wash it which I hope will soften it but it's so big that I think it would be better to take to a commercial laundry (rather than use the washer at home) to get it done. My only worry is that it'll shrink if put into a high temp commerical dryer.
So, I'm still thinking about this.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-l...art-60438.html
says 34.5" i have not measured it yet but seems right. Ill be dropping the motor out at the end of the month and ill know how well it works. Not sure if ill use my 2 or 4 post lift. It should work with either.
Not sure if the LN drain plug is any better. I mistakenly tried to torque it to the factory 27 instead of the LN 19 ft-lb. I stripped the inside and it also dripped after that. Had to replace it.
Here is what I've learned with the LN Engineering drain plug. Yes, it is hardened and magnetic, two pluses. But for some reason on my sump pan, with a new washer and proper torque, it will weep some oil. Been through many oil changes. So here is what I do. LN Engineering drain plug, new aluminum drain plug gasket, Q-tip and smear a tiny amount of black gasket maker on the washer, install finger tight and then a quick quarter turn tight, never weeps or leaks. All done.
I washed and waxed mine.
Then checked the weather...65% chance of rain tomorrow.
I guess I won’t be taking her out.
No matter, I have parts for my next mod to the car showing up tomorrow.
I‘ll take her out for a test drive on Saturday.
Today I uninstalled this:
...and I installed this:
I'm going to test and see if my IAT are any different.
Maybe even do a dyno to see if there is a difference.
I'll probably wait until next year when it is warmer...and hopefully COVID-free.
I also did the orange cap mod and cold startup sounded great.
Hope to take it for a run tomorrow.
Ok, thanks.
I have the Fabspeed air pump relocation kit.
i had to trim the top of my 996 snorkel.
Took off about and inch and a half other wise it was flush with the upper fiberglass.
I’m not sure if that is because of the 997 airbox being taller, or if it is because of the Taco rear deck.
I also had to widen the notch on the bellows because the fiberglass is thicker than the factory sheet metal.
It kept popping off, but now seems to be clipped in better.
My shift boot silver bezel had somehow gone missing before I bought the car from the previous owner. Always bugged me. But the trim piece was only available with the whole boot/**** assembly and Porsche tax was like $1,000! Found a used one from a 5 Speed Boxster on EBay this week for $90. Easy enough to razor blade the leather off of the 5 spd **** and zip tie it to mine. Looks so much better now.
I took mine for a nice drive.
My 996 really enjoyed the cold 64� weather. (Cold for this area that is)
Oh the noise from the exhaust is nice.
I haven’t used the radio in a LONG time.
I captured some cold and warm starts from inside and outside.
I‘ll try to edit them and post when I get a chance.
Good to know. Any idea where to get the aluminum gaskets? Are they the same as the stock ones? LN sells them but it's well under their order minimum and I don't need anything else from them right now.
Not exactly today, but last weekend I finally installed the Numeric Racing Shifter on my '02 Targa. Drove it on Sunday and worked out a few kinks over the weekend. Basically I didn't realized the adjustments that could be made where the stock cables mount initially. This caused reverse to be unreachable in the shortest throw. So I left it in the medium throw and enjoyed the sh*t out of it last Sunday. The shifter is truly a game changer. Bolt action rifle shifts and utter confidence boosting really changed my driving game and I had the best drive I've had in this car in the three months I've owned it.
After talking to Numeric and realizing my mistake with the cables, I was able to adjust it down to the shortest throw and drive it around this week. A noticeable difference for sure and I'm really excited for tomorrow's canyon run to see if I'll enjoy it that little margin more.
Here's the full video of the install which should help with any gotchas people might experience. Absolutely worth the money, this shifter. Especially at the Black Friday price :-D
You Tube
Got my car back from the dealer yesterday. Been jonesing for weeks to drive it as I�ve only had it in my possession for a few days since taking delivery early November. Had some work done at a couple of different places to get it just right. Was a perfect driving day here in Oklahoma today. Snow tomorrow. Took wifey out for a spirited run, and then ran a few errands. I need a bigger garage 😎
For scoping to check for bore scoring Mr. Raby recommended a 5mm or 5.5mm inspection camera. There are now smaller 3.9mm cameras available and received one today. Will drop the sump on next oil change, but use for today was to try and see if AOS was the source of my slow coolant leak.
Quickly discovered the field of view is so narrow it is hard to tell what I'm seeing. This is close to the AOS and I think I see some coolant ready to drip.
This may be the AOS body and looks like dried coolant.
This looks like part of the AOS and seems to have dried coolant on it.
Part number of something.
Wire on top of engine towards the middle maybe goes to starter? It has a liquid on it, might be oil or coolant. When I get time I'll jack up the car and try to run the camera up to the AOS from the bottom, maybe can get more useful info that way.
I sure it was easy to "social distance" with that GT4, no one could keep up!
Several friends have the earlier year GT4 and love them. This new one is supposed to be much better.
After one last quick drive, I swapped out the amber side marker bulbs for chrome amber... a much better look I think. I also pulled the headlights to do an “amberectomy” over the winter. Then gave it a proper wash and put it away for the winter.
Began to remove transmission in order to fit a new IMS bearing as the engine has now crossed 30k miles on what I presume to be the original bearing. As reported by others, the top bolt is a #$%! to get out. The job would have been impossible without the dual flex ratchet from Harbor Freight. Someone please tell me what the pros use. Next, I will support the engine with jack stands and place my transmission jack and remove the front mount.
I also sent engine oil to Blackstone for analysis, it only had 290 miles on it according to receipts from PO, so maybe the testing won't reveal much. To drain the transmission oil, I needed my longest 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the drain plug, it was so tight and the oil was very dark, I think the tranny oil was more than 20 years old....
Also Jake's transmission bolt diagram which I fixed to cardboard and poked the bolts through in order to keep everything organized until reinstallation. It is very important that these bolts need to go back in the SAME holes they were removed from as they are mostly of different lengths and the risk of torqueing a longer bolt than designed will damage something expensive.
Washed it and went to my first track day! It wasn't a full blown track day but rather an event at the Dominion Raceway designed to give a safe experience of driving on the track. No passing was allowed. There were a few instructors available and we essentially followed the set lines through corners and ramped up the speed as we went. Great experience to drive the car in its element - didn't miss a beat!
Finished up the restoration of my center console area with some respray instructions from here along with a low mileage take off shift **** and e brake lever. Side by side included to show what I started with.
The center console looks great, what a difference. This happened to me yesterday and I wasn't sure where to post it. Was leaving work and getting in my car, the lady next to me tapped on her window and gave me a thumbs up. Gave me a chuckle.
Lower the front end of the transmission down, use a 3ft long 3/8 drive extension with a short impact swivel socket !! Correct tools are the key to fast and frustration free wrenching...
I was following the Pelican book to the letter and it was only after I supported the transmission and engine and removed the front mounts I noticed there is plenty of wiggle room to slip a long-wobbly extension up there.
Although the car was built in '99, my engine was replaced under warranty in '02. 996 community wisdom suggests that I should have a single row IMSB and indeed the flange looks like a single row style. But the RMS and bolts look like the pre-update variety and I will need to figure out where to buy the updated bolts. It was nice to see zero oil leaks although the clutch friction material dropping down on me while pulling the cover plate was a bit nasty. One advantage of covid-19 is that I have plenty of masks at home.
Not today, but two weekends ago was finishing the install of a Gentex mirror (includes auto dim, Homelink, and compass). I know, some of you will be moaning about this not being factory-correct, but it does "fit" the interior aesthetic and seems to make more sense than sticking an additional switch on the dash for the garage door opener (and my Homelink can work multiple garage doors).
This past weekend was lubricating the SAI pump. You can still hear it, but the sound is not nearly as loud now.
I like the use of the Homelink & compass equipped rear view mirrors. Seems a lot safer that a garage door opener on your sunvisor that can be grabbed along with your car registration with your address on it. I used Nissan Pathfinder homelink mirror off ebay ($40) which has orange text along with a pigtail harness and rear view mirror adaptor part. Pretty easy and cheap to do.
I have no problem with that...but a LOT of my car is not factory-correct!
Great idea! Hmmm...off to check eBay before Pathfinder mirrors jump in price.
...which year(s) Pathfinder should I be looking for?
I have a 20” and a 12” extension.
If the price comes out the same, having two extensions to make ~30” would be more versatile.
15 2” extensions would suck though.
Lots of manufacturers use the Gentex mirrors. You don�t need to get one from any specific car or auto brand. Mine was from a Subaru. You just need the pig tail to wire the mirror to your own car. Only takes two wires (positive and ground), so not really that hard to install. Let me know if you need advice...I learned somethings from my experience.
True that Gentex is used on many cars. The Subaru Gentex mirrors used a red LED for the compass. The Gentrx brand use a blur/green LED for the compass. The Nissans use an orange LED that aligns with the Porsche dash as shown in my pics.
I bought a used Gentex compass/self dimming mirror from an Audi because it uses the same windshield mount and wiring plug as a 996. The 996 harness is part # 996.612.964.00 and plugs directly into the plug on the Audi mirror. In May of 2018 it was $33.73 from Sonnen. The little window on the upper right is the compass.
^^^Wow... That's a lot of snow... I didn't get that much (maybe 3-4"), but my snow blower was useless as the snow/rain/snow/sleet/slush event created a un-blowable mess. It's now a fairly solid mass as the temperature is hovering around 20 degrees
Snug and free from weather and waiting for slightly less snow in order to move it to the other garage as the IMS Solution, Brombacher oil pan, was delivered the day before the storm.
If y'all need to store your 996s somewhere that doesn't have snow, or salted roads, let me know.
It's been a LONG time since we had any snow down here.
I'd gladly make sure your car gets driven often.
We can safely drive our cars 365. (as long as it doesn't flood)
Had Pirelli winter tires (265/225) put on my 2003 4s. Finally acquired a set of 10x18 et47 winter rear rims, so unlike last winter i dont have to stretch the 265s on stock rear 11x18 rims.
I bought it to drive year round in NJ. Have put on 28k miles in 21 months, will rollover 50k on Monday. Daily driving it 130 miles since Labor day, best part of my day!!!
A good set of snow tires makes the world of difference during the winter. I drove my MK6 GTI for 5 years and had a set of 16 inch steelies with dedicated snow tires, never failed to make it up my driveway which is on a little hill. After the snow the other day my Audi with AWD took me 4 attempts to make it up with all seasons.
One thing to be mindful is that not all the Homelink equipped Gentex mirror will operate newer Chamberlain/LiftMaster garage doors. It seems Chamberlain/LiftMaster updated their security coding (
Security+ 2.0
) in the late 2000's so only some of the newer Gentex mirrors will work with them. (~2014+ on most cars and some a few years earlier). If you have a Genie brand garage door opener then this shouldn't be a problem. My 2013 Impreza Homelink mirror worked with my Genie garage door opener but when I switched to a Chamberlain opener it didn't work. Luckily I was able to get a mirror for a 2016 Impreza with a newer revision of the same mirror and that worked fine. Chamberlain does sell a bridge to use with the older Homelink models but it requires power and you need to be closer to open the garage door. I have a couple available that I can send if someone pays for shipping.
REF:
https://www.chamberlain.com/homelink.../HOMELINK+RPTR
I put the factory cup holder where the HVAC panel used to be and pulled the PCB out of the DSP to gaffers tape it inside the console so the HVAC can be where it used to be. The cup holder was spectacularly difficult to fit for me. It took longer than replacing all the SAI valves! But, eventually, a long screw driver and some long deck screws helped me get everything in place.
Paul
After not touching the car for a month while I finished disassembly and getting my part out car out of my garage - I finally got my car situated for the long, cold New England winter.
Up on stands, wheels off and battery removed. Went over the car and made my list of mods and general work I need to do over the winter. I am sure it will grow but will keep me making progress as time allows.
As much as winter sucks, it does allow for an opportunity to reflect on the current state of the car and down time to work on it without having to worry about a deadline.
50deg or lower and I don't work outside.
That's just too cold for me.
Luckily today it's in the 60s.
I can stand wrenching in a short sleeve shirt...in the garage...with the door shut.
I attempted the AOS/crankcase vacuum measurement again after finding that I put the fitting in the cap in a position that didn't allow a complete seal, resulting in a vacuum leak at the cap. The value on reply 4359 is wrong.
95K mi, 20K miles on AOS, 5W40 oil, engine at op temp, at idle
Too warm for wrenching so I went for a drive instead.
Then I came home to hook up the Durmetric to figure why my airbag light was on after doing coil packs and sparkplugs.
Supply voltage and driver belt buckle...??
Cleared the codes and I'll see what happens next time I drive it.
I got that driver buckle warning once. Shot some electrical cleaner in the buckle and it never came back. I was stationed in San Diego way back when....it was nice. Used to drive my MGB up in the San Jacinto mountains on the weekend and camp back in the forest roads.
We have a serious deer problem here as well - They're literally everywhere (especially in my neighborhood but for the most part, the entire east end of the island)... Drivers beware!
Thanks. After I posted I did a search and saw that the issue is a known "thing" with these cars.
I sprayed in some regular Deoxit which didn't work.
So then I used the Deoxit V.S.O.P. version and it worked. I have the stuff needed for the permanent fix in my Sunset shopping cart in case the light comes back.
I bought a set from Rennlist Marketplace - they were chyna knock offs. Second time I washed the car the color started fading.
Let me know how yours pans out.
Used the snow shovel to remove all the snow from the Porsche garage and to move it into the other garage in order to install an LN Solution, new main seal, clutch, throwout bearing, check the flywheel, AOS, new Brambacher pan, and new oil..... I want the car to have new oil while it sleeps.......if I can still feel my fingers......as it was impossible with the snowblower because a large tree limb prevented access. The joys of living in the woods surrounded by parkland.
Drove it. 1st time in a couple of weeks. Chilly but sunny day.
It started right up and everything (including the top) worked just fine. Drove it for 1/2 the drive w/the top up; 1st time driving w/the top up since I bought it a year ago. It was ok but visibiliy is limited and plastic rear window is blurry; would replace it if I needed to drive it top up but I don't.
Took it for a 70 mile RT driven to my "local" Total Wine & More store to buy some scotch/bourbon which I've been collecting and tasting recently. Waited til I got home to try some.
I spent the better part of two days under the car changing the oil, flushing the coolant, replacing the water pump & thermostat and refilling the coolant with the Porsche pink stuff. I used Ahsai’s great method for purging the old coolant. I was too cheap to buy the U-View Airlift so I bought the less expensive model from Ares. Oh, I also replaced the belt. Some highlights/lowlights:
Even following Ahsai’s instructions I was only able to purge 5.5 gallons out of the system
I misread his instructions about purging the heater core. I applied the air pressure at the expansion tank instead of the hose. Once I figured that out, I was able to get an additional quart out
There are 7 bolts on the water pump. I was able to remove 8. Sadly #8 was in a difficult position so getting it back in was no fun either
Not sure I would have been able to get the pump out without removing the thermostat housing
The new pump went on a lot easier that I thought it would. Same for that top right bolt on the thermostat housing
I had to make a trip to Lowes to buy a 1/4” deep 10 MM socket. I think I now own every type of 10 MM socket known to man
I had to make another trip to Lowes to find a pipe that would help me install the thermostat in the housing. I have puny thumbs
The old pump was in perfect condition. No noises, wobbles or busted impellers. I feel robbed
I found out that if you have a swivel socket wrench connected to a swivel extension, you can twist the wrench to turn the socket. Too bad I found this out on one of the last bolts
The Ares coolant fill tool has an air outlet that sprays a fine mist of coolant out while you’re filling. I need to write them to see if I was using it wrong or if it just sucks
I had a hard time keeping the hose under the fill level so I know I sucked a little air into the system. I’ve already added an additional quart of coolant after the first shakedown drive
I’m still trying to figure out where to take the old coolant. Pep Boys won’t take it and I’m having a hard time getting ahold of Waste Management
No leaks from anything after I was done. It’s a Christmas miracle!
Obligatory picture:
Most larger private shops have antifreeze recycle barrels.
sounds like u had a lot of fun. Keep checking the coolant level, even with the airlift i have had to add after a few drive cycles.
I had the chance to remove my bumper cover and clean the radiators.
Whilst there I also swapped the fasteners to stainless steel for better longevity.
I bought the fasteners from
https://boltbase.com/
but actually via amazon as it was easier to order!
Replacing
- part number
999.073.061.02
for the 4.8 x 16
in stainless
-
part number 999.073.198.09 (superseded by 999.073.227.09) for 4.8 x 19 in stainless
Here is the how-to DIY if you want to do the same:
You Tube
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to see if I can find any private shops. Seems like everything around here is corporate. The level dropped quite a bit on my first 20 mile drive. I did a 50 mile drive yesterday and no change in the level from that one. I had to replace my expansion tank a few months ago so keeping an eye on the coolant has become a hobby.
We rarely get much snow in DC but I ended up getting an all weather car cover for these situations. Worked great once already with our puny 1" snow fall hah
I took mine out this afternoon while there was no salt on the road or precipitation to deal with to look at a couple of jobs. Some flat spotting of the tires but that went away and made for a nice afternoon and conversation with customers.
I just got things put back together today, after a month spent doing the following. And my hands look like I lost a fight with a cat. How can there be so many sharp edges back in there?!
6 new fuel injectors (preventative)
Ultimate AOS install (preventative)
New AOS vent crossover tube (broke the old one)
All new vacuum lines (broke one, so preventative all around)
New Porsche Sport Exhaust vacuum vines (preventative)
New 12V cables to the Starter and Alternator (terminal at starter was melting and car was hard to start when hot)
Starter motor rebuild (while I'm in there..., and I've never rebuilt a starter, so why not?)
New alternator (997 150A version)
New engine mounts (old were shot)
New oil filler tube (old was leaking at the seal to the engine)
New upper and tensioner idler pulleys (tensioner had a rattle, and the upper pulley bearing was strangely rusty)
Also scrubbed and cleaned the oil residue from all of the intake parts/manifolds. (because now it's shiny!)
It's quite satisfying; no leftover parts or anything! Now I just need warm weather to test it out!
Brakes - pads, shims, hardware, sensors.
Rotors measured ok.
Great prices if you shop around (I got everything from RockAuto) - makes it much easier when not worrying about reusing all the little parts.
gather all the parts and tools:
starting point:
pull clip out:
punch pin out:
unplug sensor:
not a lot of pad left!
pad spreader. this worked much better than pliers or c-clamps - highly recommended! (remove some brake fluid from reservoir first):
took a long screwdriver and separated shim from pad - then pads pull right out:
old shims:
just enough space to pull out if you've pushed the pistons all the way in:
old parts:
empty caliper:
all new parts in. install shims first, peel off paper then slide pads into place.
repeat for each wheel. I found the rear shims harder to deal with as you can't see the inside of the calipers as easily.
pelican parts has a good write up and video:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Brake_Pads.htm
flushed/bled the brakes w new Porsche fluid - used the Motive power bleeder. But didn't fill it with brake fluid - rather just to pressurize the system. Kept an eye on fluid level and had to refill a couple of times - but much less chance of creating a big mess. Worked really well.
My favorite 10MM socket is the 1/4 I thinned out on a grinding wheel. It’s no good for anything requiring real torque as I’ve taken so much metal out it will just crack, but, it’s like a circular razor blade now and could most defiantly find another use as a discrete weapon.
SMOKE TEST
Got my smoke machine a couple of weeks ago and have some additional tips for the DIY. Several posters here have provided some sage advice that helped. I used pure mineral oil for smoke. This procedure also worked for checking each side of exhaust with exhaust tips removed!
Tools
:
1 clear glove
1 rubber band to fit throttle body orifice
1 rubber stopper for butterfly valve
electrical tape
smoke machine
air compressor producing minimum 40 psi
shop vac for smoke extraction
good flashlight
12v electrical source (my Pepper battery)
1. Selected the Stinger machine. Decent price. Good reviews. Easy to use. Simple and clear instructions. Appears well-made and durable. Simple. I love simple.
2. Clear the way to the throttle body.
3. Gently push bottom of butterfly back and wedge open with stopper.
4. Check the glove for leaks. Snip the middle finger and secure the wrist end of glove to throttle body with rubber band.
5. Insert smoke machine output hose in glove middle finger and tape finger to hose.
6. Turn on compressor and start with 40 psi. Make sure valve on smoke machine is closed.
7. Plug in smoke machine and wait about 60 seconds.
8. Open air supply valve on smoke machine and check that glove is inflating and filling with smoke. Check for leaks around glove.
9. I found more than 80 psi consistently popped the glove off and after about 10 air cycles, glove broke.
10. I used 50 psi and it worked well.
11. Immediately start checking for leaks imagining smoke path through top of engine manifold and vacuum lines
12. After a couple of minutes, begin checks under engine. Note: The smoke can appear wispy around leak source at lower psi flow rates.
13. The Stinger has a 5 minute limitation. I waited a couple of minutes for wick to cool down some, then plugged machine back in for 5 more minutes.
14. Shop vac the smoke out via throttle body (or exhaust pipe).
Only leak point I found...AOS to throttle body connection...easy fix
Using more than 1.5 psi in the intake can cause blown seals (cam plugs, AOS/PCV diaphragms, RMS, etc) and gaskets.
Most professional smoke machines have a regulator that limits it to 1.5.
DIY smoke machines often use propane regulators.
It is recommended to not use high pressure in EVAP systems because it can crack charcoal canisters and break vent valves/purge valves.
Also recommended to not use oxygen in EVAP systems.
I have a nitrogen bottle for EVAP systems.
Working on the rear suspension today. Wishbones and sway bar from a 996 Cup and adjustable toe arms...
Feels good to be working on the car again after what feels like a long time.
This being the first day to a new year after a totally ****ty year (except finishing grad school last spring and buying my 996 a few months ago) I decided that the first drive of the new year would be in my 996 to the grocery store to buy some salmon so that my first meal of 2021 could be some awesome lox. This afternoon....first car wash of the year.
I’ve got to do the ignition switch replacement. Noticed it starting to stick/electronics taking a while to turn off after shut down. Went to start it the other day and now the key won’t even go in.
Question before I do this. Do I need to unhook the battery or is that just a safety measure?
Lastly, if the mechanism is closed up to the point I can’t put my key in, does it just reset itself once new switch is installed or do I need to wiggle the key in carefully and do a cycle on it?
I know there’s a million threads but I didn’t see that question asked in them.
got the duct off though so I’m ready to knock this out tomorrow. Switch showed up today.
Once you get the bad switch out, the key should go in no problem an rotate smoothly.
Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution so that when you try to plug back in, ( and do in wrongly) you don't short out any circuit. Kind of like the warning on wall sockets warning to not stick keys in the wall socket !! lol
Knocked out the ignition switch. Had to take a couple breaks because I couldn’t get that damn bottom screw. Finally was able to get it loose with a second eye glass screwdriver. First one RIP :P
Adding all the time up probably about an hour. Sore back but it’s done lol.
Finally finished up my DIY video for the cold air intake elbow and high flow filter install. Spending almost as much time editing these videos as I am on the install. :-D Next up - Rennline fully-adjustable pedals :-)
You Tube
Finally replaced passenger side window regulator. Glad I don’t do wrenching for a living! Took about 3 hrs. Cut myself and broke some small plastic parts. Thankfully it works fine.
Replaced a fuel tank vent valve. Stupid piece of plastic was $166 but was able to swap it out in about an hour. Sits behind the wheel liner and is attached to the gas filler neck. Cleared the CEL and hope it doesn't come back. The issue manifested itself as P0442 Porsche fault code 97 - Tank vent system (minor leak). At any speed above 10mph I would also hear a strange whistling noise as if someone was blowing over the top of a coke bottle. With the CEL on you won't achieve full readiness so PITA for inspections. Before someone asks, gas cap was also replaced.
Did you remove the plastic stop that's on it from the factory for use in the boxster door? If not, the window won't go all the way down in the 911... Ask me how I know
... I even knew about the issue before installing the regulator - just totally forgot about it when doing the install...
Yep, I remembered after install, but before I buttoned it up.
I did manage to break the inside door release while undoing. Held together with zip tie now, but it works. Will have to order. Also, after all back together, I forgot to reinstall zip tie that keeps cable from wobbling around, near center of door. So far, no noise there.
Replaced the headlight seals on my litronics. Took the seals off my halogen lights that came with the car and put them on the litronics after soaking the seals all night in 303 aerospace protectant. Needed to do that since Im driving my 996 in the snow. Will be getting winter Blizzak tires for it this weekend.
The seals on the litronics were literally completely rotted and disintegrated when I removed them.
There's something oddly comforting seeing a 911 covered in snow. Maybe it's our German heritage?
Personally, I love seeing our cars being used in all climates and road conditions!
Great video!
Not to poopoo you're work, but just a heads up that most folks end up going back to stock for a number of different reasons. There's a ton of threads on the subject, to summarize, the Porsche engineers really did a great job, and unless you're just going to race the car, for street use it's best to go with stock.
Took delivery and brought it home!
Just bought a 2004 TT Cab, and am very excited to start modding it and repairing the random issues it's accumulated throughout the years.
He actually did a Heinholz "orange cap" modification with the capped hole.
It's not a bad modification to do.
Certainly better than a K&N cold air intake mod.
I don't know why some places sell the single silicone boot and a cap as a "cold intake" modification...except they don't know what they're selling!
But yeah...some people are going from cold air intake to stock.
My choice of going back to stock was because a certain engine builder recommends the stock airbox over aftermarket ones.
That certain engine builder may be rebuilding my engine in 2022 so I thought I'd go ahead and give it a try.
Took it out for a drive along the beach for the first time in three weeks, after getting Covid pneumonia as a pre-Christmas gift from my wife. It was my first time out of the house and the car lifted my spirits more than I can say. It was a great ride. I love this car.
I've been away from mine three weeks (so far) as I am stuck in Colorado while my wagon's transmission get repaired. Dropped a propeller shaft on the 23rd, had to get it towed 60 miles just in time to have it diagnosed and to sit for a week while the shop was shut down and waiting for parts. Was supposed to be done Tuesday, but was more complicated than they thought and today, I get the call it's done buuuuuut they didn't order enough transmission fluid from MB Denver and have to wait until tomorrow morning to fill it.
Then I get to drive 16 hours home with the doggo.
Stuck a Castrol oil cap I had laying around to block of the resonator - absolute perfect fit. Went out for a bit of a rip in the evening and quite happy with the sound, especially the last 6k to 7k rpm. This is with a stock filter too! Great free mod.
A buddy of mine has a Skywagon on floats with an IO-550 engine swap. At full throttle it burns 42 gallons of AVGAS an hour; I've joked with him about converting the fuel flow meter into dollars/minute instead of gallons/hour. It's not particularly fast either. It sure is loud though. I liked it better on wheels...
HA!! I *wish* it were a flying wagon. '12 MB E350 4matic wagon with 130k miles - been nothing but reliable with fluid changes and other consumables up til now.
I have a 11 MB E350 Blue tec , been a great car, got to drop the DEF tank tomorrow and replace the heater and temp sensor to pass CA smog. only work I have had to do so far was motor mount, you really feel when they fail.
Work in progress picture - been super detailing the car for the last 4 weeks. About 3 more days of work and I'll be done.
Car was pretty rough, lot's of swirls, scratches, and TONS of rock chips! The hood and bumper look pretty bad.
Well, at least the hood USED to look bad!
Here's the process:
1. Wash and clay
2. Strip everything with Chemical guys IPA spray
3. Meguiars Ultimate Compound with a 6" DA
4. Meguiars Ultimate Polish with a 6" DA
5. Dr. Color Chip to fix all the chips
6. Hand polish with Ultimate Polish
7. Wax with Meguiars NXT 2.0
Here's an after pic of the hood!!! Sorry, no before pic:
Oil change and brake flush.
Then, I took off the bumper cover for the usual radiator cleaning - they were barely dirty! Guess I am not driving enough...
Oil Change, DT40
Bumper / muffler off for plugs and coils. My hands are way too big to work between the muffler and engine. I don't know how anyone does it.
All the plugs looked the same. 20K miles on plugs. They have a bi-modal pattern. One side is light gray/brown, the other side has a sharp black line on the ceramic just below the electrode. It's the first time I've seen it. The car is running fine and hasn't been throwing codes, so I figure this must be a signature of this engine. Any insight is helpful.
All the coils had cracks. I expect they are original. The engine has 95000 miles.
And while looking around, found this beauty!
Any guesses on how long before it blows? It's number 18 in the cooling diagram at Autoatlanta.(i think)
I would buy the other cooling hoses in the engine bay. Its not that hard to get to the heater hoses too. All of the hoses in that area r gonna age the same way.
I've had to replace that hose because of that plastic molded fitting. You should replace it pre-emptively because it will blow at the most inoppurtune time. If you even look at that hose funny it will break and blow.
That's what I was afraid of. So this is the same embrittlement problem as the AOS cooling nipple on the top? Yuck!
So the strategy for a 'forever' car is to change all the hoses you can find and not worry for the next 20 years. I'll go dig up De Jeepers list. Thanks.
Bought the car in September and hated the double din unit in there. Removed the double din unit and the metal frame holding it all in. Need to clean up the wires because they are spliced to hell and back. Also need to remove the gps wire that goes under the weather stripping and a little stick on antenna on the roof. Also going to start removing the center console as there’s a usb and iPhone plug in that runs under that and out of the bottom of the passenger seat. Going to relocate climate back up top and put original radio in and get a GT3 console delete.
Plugged in the og radio and worked great and sounded perfectly fine so that’s great news.
once I get those cables out going to list this unit on eBay and really just try to get enough out of it to get the GT3 delete. Also need a climate faceplate surround which is on suncoast. Only thing I need to check your advice on are the tabs seem to be filed down on the plastic that the plate clips into but i should be able to come up with something if that’s the case? Added pics below
I you have to drive the car while waiting for the hose, I'd throw some good epoxy on there at the very least (maybe do the cracks with superglue/cyanoacrylate first)... This should protect it from just letting go ***** nilly...
It's minor miracle that your OEM CDR-220 still works with the state of that wiring.
Unfortunately the double DIN conversion meant that someone took a Dremel or hacksaw to your OEM dash panel, so I think the only way to reliably go back is to see if you can find an OEM panel on eBay or a replacement one on Pelican or autoatlanta.
I presume you were able to use the OEM plugs in the back of the radio and the original amp/speakers are in place? If so, then you just need to get the structural piece of the dash sorted out. Depending on your year, you may have had pop-out cup holders above the original head unit as well.
Yes I am going to fix the splicing of the harness next but every speaker was working just fine. I need to see pics of the opening with everything removed in stock form so I know what is chewed up/what to buy.
Guess I am a little confused and if I’m going to need a whole surround. On suncoast parts the carbon fiber piece looks like it has the plastic pieces for the climate and radio but the basic one the pic doesn’t indicate that.
rino924 - Buy the frame from them and find the trim pieces used. Paint them all yourself, if you want, before you install the frame. Been a while but I recall the vent louvers are fairly easy to remove before paint. You�ll have the proper config in the flavor you desire and save several Benjamin�s.
I restored the hydraulics of my 2002 Cab with the help of Cabriolet Hydraulics instructions and rebuild services. I had no way of knowing if ALL I needed was to rebuild the cylinders and refill the system. The hydraulics failed two owners ago and they had both just been manually moving the top after opening the clamshell under power for more than 8 years. I'm the first person to care enough to spend $500 on making it right.
It was a rare nice day so I also pulled it out to give me some more room in the driveway and reinstalled my freshly powdercoated sport design II's.
Little confused by this. By trim are you saying the surround? I don't need to get anything to paint. Just need to see if the plastic bracket on the inside is what I need since it is filed down and needing replaced?
I'm guessing this is what I need to buy:
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/996G1RSF99.html
Unboxed the new driver's side seat belt receiver that came today.
My air bag light came on out of the blue a few weeks ago and after a search I saw that this was a common 'thing' with these cars. I used DeOxit on it but it only worked for one drive. If this new receiver doesn't fix it, I'll spend the extra $30 for the Full Monty repair.
I really like your car and the wheels are a very nice touch. I would love to see my bronze MY02's on it as well but think you did real well with the SD II's.
If I was to add an unprovoked .02 - drop that car as low as you can
Would be my perfect Cab...
Where did you get it from? How much $? I need one of these, but don't want to go for $120 (new)... Hey, maybe you can do me a favor. Do you have/know how to use a OHM/Voltmeter? If you could take a resistance reading across all pins it would be awesome...
Installed my �winter� shift ****... Function First Black Delrin (did the silver paint fill myself). I had gotten this **** quite awhile ago but didn�t install until my hand was frozen by the aluminum **** several times 🥶
Wow! What a difference... The Delrin warms up WAY quicker than the Aluminum one which actually causes great pain without gloves and still makes your hand cold even with them...I guess I�ll change it back out when I put the summer wheels on.
I reused my factory boot with my FunctionFirst Delrin shift ****.
No modifications were necessary.
Just cut off the factory zip tie and use a new zip tie to attach the boot to the new shift **** lever.
For the most part, yes. I covered the shaft of the soldering iron with multiple layers of aluminum foil and cloth tape (think hockey stick) and that worked perfectly. It seemed way more daunting than it actually is. I probable sat at my table for 20+ minutes with a hot soldering iron working up the courage to actually start. So glad I did this simple mod though, it looks worlds better!!!
Could you help me understand this better? Are you just poking holes, or do you drag the soldering iron across the lens so when you pull out, it will be a "controlled" break?
Yes, you cut the leather at the base of the stock **** > turn the boot inside out > slip the base through the hole in the boot > zip tie it around the groove in the base > turn the boot back right-side in > the **** screws onto the base > slip the base over stock shift lever and tighten the two set screws. All these instructions are included with the FF ****...
Here's a slightly better pic to give you some orientation.... What I did was cut a line vertically (black) starting about two thirds of the way down (from the bulb socket to the mirror) on each of the three sides. Then I cut across the lenses horizontally (purple) to chop it up into smaller pieces, The I was left with a three sided chopped piece still hanging towards the but socket, that can be pulled down now that its smaller, then cut that up into smaller pieces so they can be removed from the socket hole. And done.
That's^^^ the same as mine was. That **** is actually made of rubber (believe it or not) which leads to a mushy shifting feel... The FF **** feels much more solid
My bad. The other part of the repair is $50.00 not $30.00. Per the Porsche airbag/seatbelt TSB, in addition to the seatbelt receiver, you're supposed to replace some connectors and wiring that go to the airbag module. From Sunset, the receiver is $111.00 and the wiring/connector kit is $50.00. I'm just doing the the receiver and if that doesn't fix it, I'll spring for the $50.00 kit.
OHM/Voltmeter? Resistance? Sounds complicated. Maybe the guy at the Texaco station that checks my oil for me could do it.
Seriously though, I can't see how I could check all four pins without separating the two plastic halves which I don't want to do. When I pull the old one out, I'll use it to see what's involved with splitting the housing.
Ha - you've clearly got the tools & the chops to pull it off!
you don't have to measure all 4 pins at once - it's only two wires that go to the receptacle. I don't remember which ones. Like a dope I just sold my old seats and gave the receptacle to the purchaser - unfortunately I was rushed for time and didn't measure the resistance my self. I had the receptacle plugged in under my drivers seat and it got rid of the airbag light. I'm trying to figure out the resistance so I can just put a resistor in line instead of the receptacle.
I haven't looked at the schematic yet. The replacement has 4 wires so I'm guessing two for the airbag module and the other two for the 'fasten seatbelt' warning...?
IIRC it's the brown and green wires that cause the airbag light to go out... Either way, if you could get me the resistance on the Green / Brown and the Blue/Yellow it would be awesome! Thanks in advance
So much for my memory... I just went back and looked at my original thread... It's the Blue/Yellow connector - the 997 seat only has Blue/yellow wire...
Replaced all control arms, inner and outer tie rods plus drop links. Old parts were not completely destroyed but looking forward to a refreshed drive after I get the alignment done tomorrow. Went with the Meyle parts.
Have a full set of original pieces if anyone wants them. Vancouver Island area
Wow, you got kinda hosed on that key. Ann Arbor Porsche ordered me a blade, new fob, and programmed it for right around the "bargain price" of $450. I suggest you call around before pulling the trigger.
This is why I hesitate to ever mention $$ paid on a forum.
There’s always someone who got a much better deal.
All 5 Porsche dealerships near me quoted around the same price.
I’ll just consider it a tax for not living in Michigan 👍
No, thank you for posting, we need to stick together and share our experiences.
A year ago I got a new key. The process is: come to the dealer with registration and DL, we order the key, you pay for it in advance, and then we call you when it comes in, and you come back to the dealer to get it done. The price? He clicked on the computer, said the key will be $625.00. I said, wait a minute, the forums all report key purchase in the $300-400 range. He clicks some more, and says: OK, $355.00. Just like that, obviously he was trying to boost the price. 3 weeks later, another about $150 and 3 hours of waiting, for the programming. So it is always around $500. I have no respect for any Porsche dealer.
I would like to ditch the immobilizer setup all together.... Anyone got any ideas how that can be done ?
Track mat in today.
Window switch wiring moved up to din where switches will be mounted in my CF delete plate.
I dont think u can without going into the dme or an aftrermarket dme. Easiest thing to do is cut the pill out of the key and epoxy it to the column. Then u can use a start button or just a cheap key blade to start
I've been planning on getting my son to create a 3D model of one of these and then he/I can print them for those that want them.
Obviously this one is not the nicest looking piece.
I've been tackling some of the most fiddly jobs I can imagine.
The
A/C compressor rear bolt
was hard because of visibility but once I positioned my cheapo amazon borescope and removed the air temperature sensor and grommet from between cylinders 4/5 it went ok. Although it was still tough to keep the socket (+extensions) fully aligned with the bolt head. Once removed, I thought about ordering new bolts as I slipped more than once but
it seems you cannot remove the bolt from the compressor?
Either that or the way the a/c lines are connected to my compressor makes it impossible to get this bolt off the compressor without draining the system...
The
AOS top hose
was a major pain to remove. As the transmission was already out, I also lowered the two front engine mounts by 3-4 inches, but I feel I still needed a lot more space. The plastic clips were hard to get enough force on them, there is a knack to removal and I found it as the second plastic connector was much easier to remove. I imagine the Porsche technician who fitted the AOS had a good laugh over his Bratwurst sandwich at the way he managed to hide the top circlip underneath the hose inlet to the AOS... But eventually I managed to rotate it just enough with a small lever to attach a small pair of locking pliers onto it. I will order pneumatic hose clamp pliers soon..
The condition of the old AOS looked very good though... Is there a way to test this off the car?
(I have a manometer)
I guess it is all part of the learning process. I'm sure if I did these jobs again it would take a fraction of the time. (well maybe not the AOS hence the UAOS solution, which I probably should have ordered but I want to keep the car close to oem for now)
TRLBRAKER
your post was especially timely and you inspired me to take a trip to my local HF on the way home from work last night to pickup a bore scope for todays activities...
Goodbye god damn AC compressor and lines in the engine bay - so much room for activities... In all seriousness, with it out of the way regular servicing and inspection of the engine bay will be a lot easier than it was.
PS - the thing is a bit of a MF'er to get out...
And goodbye AC condensers blocking ANY air from getting to the rads, grabbed the accessible piping while I was in the area.
When all was done for the day I was left with this glorious pile - if anyone wants the AC compressor and wants to pay for shipping - it's yours. Worked fine last time I used it. That said, I haven't touched my AC in a year, my test to make sure I could live with it after removal was to not use AC in the car all summer, it was easy, so for the weight reduction, additional real estate when servicing and making repairs - off she went. I'll pull all the rest of the lines when I switch to electric PS - this will do for now.
There must be at least 70lbs weight savings there.
I guess there are no concerns about localized hot spots in the power steering fluid or will you not drive it until you've switched to electric pump?
I wish, I'd guess about 25-30. It is nice to get the compressor out, difficult to find LBS to pull out of the rear of the car.
Not sure what you're referring to with localized hot spots ?
Pro actively Replaced a 21 year old OEM water pump and thermostat. The Bearing felt great, all fins intact and looked perfect . Hardest part of the whole job was getting the rubber hoses off the pump and thermostat housing . They became glued on over the years. While I was in there I replaced the 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley. Next project is plugs and coils
pro tip: LN engineering has a great deal on the water pump package only $350 for the oem pump, belt, thermostat, thermostat tool, new bolts ,gaskets and driven coolant additive.
Old h20 pump
New pulleys
No fluid in AC lines. When I swap to electric power steering the entirety of both systems will come out so no worries there.
The electric setup mounts the pump/reservoir in the frunk with lines running direct to the rack. Pretty slick setup and can be hooked up to a switch to turn on and off. For instance, while maneuvering around the paddock it can be on and when headed out on track can be shut off...
Installed
these puppies
, did a full-body clay bar, cleaned and conditioned the leather, and treated the soft top. Perfect way to spend a 30�F day in Chicago: in a heated garage babying my 996!
Dead pedal and gas pedal are drop-dead simple to install. Clutch and brake are a little trickier only because of the limited space to move around. Opted for three screws in the clutch and just two in the brake. You'll want either a low profile drill or to just know that you're going to have to depress the clutch and brake while drilling in order to make sure you're drilling perpendicularly into the material. I used double-stick tape to make sure I had them lined up just the way I wanted them before marking for drilling. The whole job took less than an hour.
I have owned my 996 for 6 months and have put 2000 KM on it. With winter now in force here its time for the regular maintenance activities.
This weekend, Felix (1999 C2 coupe) for new oil and filter plus a new air filter. I also got rid of the horrid original locking wheel bolts and installed new ones that I have more faith in. Plus I painted the other wheel bolts.
Next up will be working on more of the fluid exchanges - tranny, diff, brake and power steering. Plus I have a hole in the dash that I have to repair.
The maintenance is one reason I buy cars like this.
Cheers all. Shiny side up.
jb
It finally cooled down to the low '80�s so I knocked out a couple of things today.
First thing was replacing the driver's side seatbelt receiver to hopefully get rid of my airbag light.
I had to unbolt the seat but it wasn't necessary to remove it from the car.
Gave it a good vacuum while the seat was unbolted and even found enough loose change to buy a beer.
Next up console removal.
Original center storage section on the left and new console delete piece on the right.
Console delete installed.
Hooked the battery back up and waiting to reset the clock.
Cleared the airbag warning and we'll find out tomorrow if it's fixed.
Put its blanky on since it will be left out of the garage tonight (more projects tomorrow).
120 mile roundtrip to take my wife for a drive thru covid test, a requirement before much needed surgery on Wednesday. She loves to ride in our 4s and listen to the tunes. Porsche therapy is good for the patient as well as the caregiver!!
Sorry, I remembered as I was buckling up to go for a test drive about an hour ago.
I have the old one sitting here but I'm not clear on exactly what resistance reading you're looking for.
I had 398 unfastened but again, I wasn't sure what two points I was supposed to be measuring between.
Hey Thanks guys... I'm pretty sure it's the Blue and yellow wires that need to be measured. I suppose I should try a 400 ohm resistor between those two wires. Unfastened should be fine as that's what my old receptacle was (i just had it plugged in and laying under my drivers seat - it kept the airbag light off).
^^^ Great! Thanks again
I've got some resistors on order, and will mess around with them when they arrive - I'll let you know how it goes. Hopefully I can get that light to go out for $10 or $20 as opposed to $120 (for a new receptacle)... we'll see
After a suspension refresh (more details in my build thread) I took the car to get corner balanced and aligned. Here's what the car weighs with half a tank of gas and my 175lb lump of meat.
I just bought a new receptacle for $40 off eBay.
I'm hoping to use the connector on the end to defeat the "your seatbelt is unfastened" signal.
I don't need a car to tell me whether I have my belt on or not...I can figure that out on my own.
Yes, sometimes I drive down my street from the mailbox to my garage without it on.
It ticks me off that cars these days are made to annoy you into wearing your belt.
Also if I use my harnesses (which are not yet in the car actually) then it will go off needlessly.
I know there are ways of preventing the warning by plugging in a dummy seatbelt end, but I'd like to just permanently disable the warning.
I found out this weekend that the new jeep wrangler (auto trans) will lock the brakes if u try to move it with the door open. What a pita to get it lined up in the lift. Too many stupid people doing stupid things make these things neccessary.
I've seen a few recommendations of locking the crankshaft at TDC using a 5/16 or 8mm drill. I've not seen anyone mention using a hardened-steel drive punch which does the same but you also have a handle. (a bit nicer IMO)
I started with this
Amazon
Amazon
and then cut it down (roughly) as pictured so it would fit into the slot in the pulley with the engine still in the car.
Used my new-to-me durametric enthusiest. Got the following:Number of ignitions range 1 6891 / 1920.8h
Number of ignitions range 2 2 / 1208.7h
Operating hours counter 2224.6
Looks like not many range 2 and 1000 hours ago. Cant do much else as the serpentine belt is off wating on the rest of my parts to do water pump, thermostat, idler pulleys, etc.
I’d like to get this knocked out, possibly a 3 spoke steering wheel and a set of Pole Position ABE’s so my seats don’t take too much of a beating and just focus on keeping the maintenance up to speed. At nearly 80k, I’m sure the suspension is due for refresh.
You'll be amazed at what refreshing the suspension can do.
I replaced mine with about 75K (17 years old) and it made a world of difference.
I replaced lower control arms and control arm links.
I also replace the 2nd set of struts/shocks installed by the previous owner with Feal coil overs.
I'm very happy with how mine handles now!!!
My 82K mile car handles better than most brand new cars.
Better than ANY under 100K!
If my wife complains about me dumping $1,500 worth of new control arms and bushings into my 20 year old Porsche with an engine that could blow at any moment... I�m sending her straight to you for being a bad influence on me.
Ha!
I just informed my wife recently that I'm getting in line to have my engine rebuilt by Flat 6 Innovation.
Her only concern was, "are you sure that electric cars aren't going to completely replace gas powered cars?"
I told her I'd be the crazy old guy polluting the environment with my home brew fuel before I quite driving my 911.
Her response was, "it's your car...you're going to do what you're going to do, so go ahead."
BTW, there's no need to spend $1500 on control arms.
I spent $340 for the front and a ~$550 for the rear. (do the front first, then decide if you want to do the rear)
The Feal coil overs ran about $1400 though.
I don't golf, I don't fish...much. So instead I spend money on my car...and on tools.
I'm already on Feal 441 with new GT3 rear LCA, Tarrett rear toe arms, and Powergrid rear drop links. I'm curious to see how much better it can get. Right now it feels like a great handling older car. I'd like it to feel like a great handling newer car.
I still need to replace all the dogbones, all the tuning fork arms, front LCA, front drop links, and the tie rods to complete the refresh. Love what it's done to my car's ride/handling so far, though.
Removed the engine lid with the Carrera fixed wing.
And swapped it for the original lid with retractable wing.
Also installed an airbox and snorkel from a 997 3.8 'S'
Pismo? Haven�t had the guts to take the 996 there but when we drove our A4 there we got a note from the Audi service dept, �large quantities of sand found in lower engine cover.� Ha!
Thanks gents. This was actually in Chincoteague, VA while on a little get away. Cool area with wild horses roaming the island. Trip back home is about 170mi so should blow out most of sand. Didn't go crazy but a very fun experience.
It's cheap peace of mind and the little pouch is actually useful. It's NLA from the dealer but I stumbled across this NOS one on Ebay for around $60.00 I think. They still pop up once in a while. Porsche calls it a 'Service Cover' and it's part #
PNA50599600.
Better pic:
Needed a place to put this and didn't want to create a new thread. I have done some reading but just want some opinions once I get my car out on the road again this spring.
2001 Carrera, 77k on the miles. I bought it towards the end of September and only have about 300 miles on it before I parked it for winter. Shortly after delivery I had to have O2 sensors replaced and had a leaking coolant line going into the thermostat. Last few times I drove it I was leaking coolant out the front bumper. Took it all apart and I suspect radiator. Looks like the other radiator in my service records has already been replaced.
I plan to take the car into the Indy dealer in March probably to get that done. Anything else I should probably address? Some notable things done are below:
43,518 miles (Oct 2011): new coolant tank, cap and passenger side radiator
55,187 miles (Oct 2013): new clutch
61,212 miles (July 2015): Spark plugs and fuel filter replaced
68,459 miles (June 2018): IMS and crankshaft seal
77,184 miles (Sept 2020): water pump drive belt, new front shock, new front and rear brake hose
I don't see a new water pump in my service history so maybe have that addressed with the radiator replacement? I am sure the suspension is getting tired but that might be something I do on my own down the line.
Just want some opinions instead of me just throwing money at the car
I agree that it is a good idea to replace the water pump and thermostat while the coolant is drained. Then check the drive belt and pulleys for wear.
It is probably also a good idea to replace the resistors or the whole fan units while you are doing the radiators. The fans have to be removed when changing the rads anyway and the resistors are a common failure item that mean that your fans will not come on with the a/c or when the engine is hot enough. I am replacing both of mine after I was unable to get the fans to turn on with a Durametric.
I will go against the grain and tell you to inspect the water pump, but I wouldn�t necessarily replace it. Some WPs last 20 years and have no visible wear, while others have replaced them and they last 6 months or 2 years. There are a lot of thing that cost a lot of money on this car. Proactively replacing components could just result in spending money for no reason. That said, the WP problem is that if they do fail, they could cause major catastrophic engine failure because the engine gets too hot, even if the gauge shows a normal temp. So it�s a catch-22. I know of no safe way to prevent this, even if some say that replacing the water pump could prevent this, unless you place temperature sensors in various areas inside the engine - not realistic. If the WP shaft is loose, or the WP is leaking, or if the impeller has lost some blades, then yes, replace it. If it still looks and feels like new, but is indeed older, it might be a good one and will continue to last. If you do get a new WP, then make sure you pick the right one. Don�t go with metal impellers, and don�t pick a cheap one.
EDIT: even some newer 911s have WP issues, such as the 997 and 991, so it�s not like newer is better.
Spent an hour trying to pull the hvac harness from the bottom to the top with no success. Had me so frustrated. It keeps getting snagged and outside of pulling apart the dash, no idea how to fish it through
Pulled the motor for maintenance. Took about 4 hrs to pull and seperate the trans. Didnt think that was bad.
Got a few things to address like a leaky ln ims flange. I thought it was the rms. Will start a new thread on that one. Also someone must a gauled up a bolt pulling the trans now its a stud. Ill probably have to cut, drill and helicoil it. I dont think i could extract it without cracking the case because it wouldnt budge with a fair amount of heat.
After the install, I only drove the car long enough to bring it up to temperature before putting it back in the garage. I haven't had a chance to take for a real drive but I'll be very surprised if I notice any difference.
Hmmm, that makes me question if I want to keep the cubby. Also, this is OCD but you could maybe put an o-ring around each switch to hide the back part.
I am certain the buttons could be made more OE looking, just not a priority for me.
They are rock solid and functional, making them look nice will be a project for when the project list is short.
Knowing where you are going in your build I highly encourage you to be inspired by mine, do it better, then I�ll copy yours
Is there much difference between a 997 3.8s box and a 3.6 box? they look very similar on the exterior, however, one costs half as much (used) than the other.
Got home from the office and spent some time getting the gearbox ready to come out - Undertrays, slave, axles, shifter cables. Just got to drain the fluid, bell housing bolts and the mount and out she'll come.
Despite the cold - a nice evening wrenching on the car.
Even with just an inch, there's way too much salt out there at the moment and most days too cold for the Pirellis anyway. Every now and then the temp gets up above 40 deg, I have some time, and the roads are dry enough.
Was replacing an o-ring and checking the air filter, 997 airbox so pull the box to open, and saw some gouging on the belt. Crank pulley has been eating it! Whew! It would not’ve been a good day if that sucker broke.
Nicks on inner crank pulley.
Also was going to replace the seal between throttle body and intake. The intake tube is the 4S/Turbo version. Annoying. Come to learn the 4/4S/Turbo are different than the 2 wheel drives. But mine’s a C2. Interesting.
Finished the idler pulleys, water pump, thermostat, serp belt job. Topped up power steering fluid. Bled the coolant. Took it for a drive. So far so good, no leaks.
Also checked cam deviation for the first time. 0.42 and -0.08.
Dreading pulling high pressure power steering line off engine. Minor weep is driving me nuts on my perfect 33k mile 2004 AE so I must do it.
Its in storage so no rush but I need to tend to it before spring comes around
Looks good. Been on the fence about doing this for a while and then the PCCM+ came out so I've been debating on that. At the same time, I don't know if I drive enough to justify that cost.
I know that GT3 came that way, but I�ve always wondered why people take out the center console and/or back seat on a non-track car. Maybe it�s just me, but I like having the cubby space on the center console and the back seat option, when needed.
Putting the car back together in single hour chunks after work. I still have a few 'while your there' jobs but my plan is to enjoy the cool Florida weather while it's still here, actually driving the car. Most drivers should notice the extra power in cold conditions (this is especially true for turbocharged cars (which my 996.1 isn't but I digress))
Last night I installed the new flywheel and dabbed the bolts with blue Loctite and then torqued to 25nm (19 lbft) and then tightened 120� in diagonal 30� steps. (Created a GIF animation today during lunch break to show the process clearly and also betray I used far too many markings
)
I'm 6'2"+ and my knee is always bashing the center console. I plan to do the center console delete when I have time.
BTW, these are actually Boxster parts if you're shopping.
You're going to love it. Being able to ever so slightly tilt your right leg over made it much more comfortable for me on long drives. Wish I had done it sooner
For some it's aesthetic, and I fall in that group. However, similarly to you, the cubbies come in great handy so it's hard to justify form over function. It does look much cleaner without though.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/889x801/48263260_6ff9_4de0_a65a_742a8aef8f2a_d0bf674046d89ee09722ef0d193d252f46ef6506.jpeg
Last drive, old engine
Off on a Georgia sojourn. Maybe I'll have GT3 wheels waiting for when she gets back. And after the Ohlins finally get fitted, she'll be worthy of the engine.
What will I drive until then?!? My 220K(?) mile Prius is not quite the same.
Wow, I have a 17 month wait until mine makes the same journey.
I can't imagine how exciting this is!
I've been wondering the same thing...what will I drive.
My daughter will be turning 16 the same month I ship off my car, so whatever I buy will probably be given to her to drive once my 996 comes back.
She's lucky for the timing.
She might not have gotten her own vehicle, but since I'll have a spare just 4 months later...
It also means whatever I get needs to be automatic and reasonable for a 16 year old to drive.
I did the center console delete for leg space for my 6'5" father in-law. He says it's a bunch more comfortable.
I left the center console in the Turbo, though. Both have their benefits.
@OnlyoneTarga4.0
Is that a FSI build? I had thought about adding the "S" badge to my 3.8L build...More pics of the white targa, please!
It's going to be awesome.
The car was already awesome. I already miss it. I still can't believe the effect this car has on me. My brothers and sisters think I'm crazy. Good luck with the wait. It will go by quickly because your car is fully operational. You're not just staring at a broken thing on the side of the house.
A substitute driver I was thinking of is a Panamera with an MT. Apparently there are only 150 in the US. I haven't had any luck finding one. Maybe something like a Jetta sport wagon if it was going to be used by my kids. It's a little sporty, quite practical, and pretty reliable.
There's a Panamera manual? Never even knew that was the case. The real question - would it be similar to the manual Cayenne GTS?
@golock911
Are you going for the 4.0 FSI? Are you doing the Stage II?
After researching a bit more, it seems the Panamera manual was only available on other continents. Too bad.
https://rennlist.com/forums/panamera...xperience.html
This car will get the 3.8 Stage1. I'm not going to track a cabriolet. My primary concern is that it will work well until I'm done here, 20-30 years. The other concern is the potential conflict with CARB. Need to appear stock or you fail emissions. Grr...
Well last year flew by.(thankfully)
Lets hope that 2021 & most of 2022 fly by for me.
In the meantime, I want to hear all about yours when you get it back!
Today I looked at the car in the garage...sandblasted windshield, rock chips all over the front bumber....and still loving it, just like I did when I bought it 10 years ago.....
Completely took apart the gauge cluster to get the main PCBA out.
Going to solder a couple flying leads to the SMT LED mounted on the main cluster circuit board that indicates a CEL so I can then solder them to a through hole LED I'll mount somewhere I'm going to be able to see it since the one in the cluster will be completely blocked by my AIM dash. Then if the unthinkable happens and the CEL....comes on - I can
choose
to ignore it instead of being totally oblivious to its existence
Ya know, totally normal stuff.
My car is 1 million pieces at the moment - not a pretty sight.
Washed, waxed and polished the Carrera this morning at an Autoglym centre. Spent quite a few hours there as I did the same on the other Porsche and two more cars. Harder lockdown measures coming up so with a temp of 23 deg C today in Athens and a lot of sunshine it was the perfect time for this
Scoped the bores from the plug side, ordered silicone plugs and a sacrificial oil filler cap for crankcase pressure test, and ordered some new injectors.
Weather has been cold for a while, which means critters such as mice will find their way into the garage. I went into the garage today and heard some faint scurrying. I changed locations several times and zeroed in on the engine bay. Looking around with a flashlight, I found a nest in the valley under the intake. It looked fairly fresh. I removed all of this with a two foot grappling tool with the retractable prongs on the end. I didn't get it all, but I got most of it. I also looked carefully for any damaged wiring or rubber parts and didn't find any.
Around here in MN, the objective is to keep the mice at bay before it gets real cold. Once it gets cold and winter sets in, they don�t like to move around either.
I got the motor fully dressed and ready to go back in. The exhaust really kicked my butt. I had 8 of 12 bolts break on the manifolds so i got a Stomski Racing guide from another member. It works really well but i still had to helicoil 2 of the holes.
This winters engine maintenance included variocam pads, cam chains, one side solinod, all 3 tensioners, ims to cam pads, imsb flang seals, plugs, tubes, coil packs, mk2 fuel injectors and an oil change. Also changed a reverse sensor and did an oil change (motol 300) in the trans.
Along with fixing a bunch of things from lazy mechanics the top of the motor got a good cleaning. Took me about 3 weekends to get it all done.
Stomski kit
bad tensioner
Motor ready to go back in
Oh and some treats for me.
Drove it w/the top down and w/my GF in it to one of the few remaining spots -- a pizza joint -- that we like where we can eat outdoors. It was a chilly but sunny day. Shared a pizza and beer together and drove directly back home. A very pleasant afternoon outing.
Substitute office for garage... it�s a **** show.
Need to get the gearbox back so I can get all the support stuff needed for the removal and installation back away.
It won't be too long here before it's warm enough to not damage the summer only tires. In the meantime, I'll work on the mechanicals. Hoping the Covid stuff ends soon so we can travel again. Greece is on the list.
That was from 3 1/2 years ago, but was able to get the Ebay link from the original post, and it's still active!
Porsche 911 996 Mk2 GT4 Polyurethane USA made lower Spoiler Lip add on | eBay
I'm gonna look into this for my self as well.
Got the motor running after pulling it for winter maintenance. After doing much more then variocam pads and tensioners its purring like a kitten. Ill be borrowing a scanner tomor to check crank angles so hopefully they r close to 0. Still need to burp the coolant and charge the ac and it should be done. I wish the weather was better in the north east do i could drive it.
Wow, for that much I�d look into one of the Joe Toth carbon fiber splitters.
If I ever have to replace my Cup car splitter I�d consider a Joe Toth 2-piece.
...that is if there aren�t any cup car splitter available.
Porsche discontinued them last year.
Nice! Congrats on getting it back in and running. Mines going in for injectors, variocam pads and IMS Solution/UAOS/RMS in a couple weeks but I am leaving that to the pros.
So my old original exhaust tips are taking up space and I got the urge to shine ’em up a smidge. The original plan was to hit ‘em with some Sharkhyde or Heavy Metal and a polish ball. After a quick foray thru the Amazon jungle, I purchased the Chemical Guy’s’ stuff simply because it was the cheapest and quickest to arrive of the two polishes. After applying the goop I hit the steel with some high-torque polishing ball hammer drill-style. More cowbell!
Results were pretty good, but why not go a step further? With too much time on my hands, between picking up kids from school and making lasagna, I looked above my tool bench and thought, “I should do a quick, pseudo-scientific comparo of some of the different alchemist concoctions gathered in the
Turn my Porsche into Gold
section of the shelf!” So out come the Brasso, Blue Magic, Heavy Metal, Never Dull, Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Mother’s Mag and Aluminum Polish.
I took the least visually appealing tip for the test. My nod to the scientific method included tape sectioned areas about 2x2, hand application of each product for 2 minutes, pull the tape and buff each general area separately.
Impressions (worst to best)
Never Dull - dullest performer, works great on sterling though (not recommended)
Brasso - so-so and seems to work best, in my experience on any metal found in coins...go figure (not recommended)
Blue Magic- been using the stuff for almost 40 years and still works really well, but still leaves a black and blue mess; ingredients separate in hotter environments
Turtle Wax - impressive result for a cheaper alternative; does a nice job of taking down bits and discoloration
Mother’s - pretty good stuff and result just slightly less reflective than the Chemical Guy’s; ingredients do separate if stored in a hotter environment
Chemical Guy’s Heavy Metal - messy when applied with a drill, but does great when rubbed (ok, ok settle down)
Then rubbed Mother’s on a half and Heavy Metal on the other half. Heavy Metal wins. Definitely more cowbell. Had I known, I would’ve used the Mother’s with a polishing ball, then finished with hand-applied Heavy Metal. And I bet the Sharkhyde would be cool to try some other time. So, in total, my shiniest exhaust tip had one drilling and three hand jobs before I was finished.
After test completion
Left side with polish complete, right side machine and one manual application of Heavy Metal
Left side started out being in the worst shape.
Excellent work. Need to do something with mine before they go back on. Have clean off the chunks of tar with some brake cleaner first. Off to O�reillys to get some polish. Might have something laying around too.
What do you do if your car is in the shop and you are tired of the subject du jour at work?
Work on a different car!! I decided to replace the battery in the Prius because I can't find a Cayenne GTS with a manual transmission to replace the 996 while it's gone. This battery will get this car back to 53 mpg from 42mpg. Woohoo.
1st battery lasted 18 years, 220K miles. High expectations exist for this one.
Oh, and apologies for the non-Porsche photo. It'll never happen again.
I expected the battery bank to be much larger than that. Are there more than one or is that it? How much did that thing weigh? I'm a bit Prius-curious.
It was $1650 with some dealer promotion. Toyota in our area has just started some type of online thing. Other dealers were $1950. The core charge was $1350.
I was able to muscle it around pretty easily. I didn't weigh it, but maybe it was 60lbs. The box it came in had 5X the volume of the battery and barely fit in the car. Why the giant double containment double strapped box? Before this box, apparently there was a leak in a battery on an airplane that led to a fire. The core return required they open the box, take the top off the battery and check to see that the plastic side rail insulators were intact, as well as all the cables having insulated ends. They were quite serious about it.
Some data:
-when new, running at 70mph would yield 48mpg
-at 220k miles, running at 70mph would yield 40mpg
-new battery, running at 70mph yielded 49mph this morning
-the battery had kind of an optimum life. Long running times between 35-50mph. Temps are not extreme here. When I was driving it 70 miles a day for commute, my drive never touched the freeway. Averaged 53mpg for 12 years. Then job change dropped the commute hours.
I'm happy with the improvement. If I were concerned about the cost, it would take 8 years to pay for itself.
The funny thing is that I don't try to get good mileage with my 996. I just drive it. I simply compare it to previous to make sure something weird hasn't changed in fuel delivery.
A few weeks ago I swapped out the engine lid with the fixed wing with the lid that has the r
etractable
spoiler.
I wanted to see if the spoiler was working as it's supposed to and since you can't see it in the rear veiw mirror, I took a vid.
Spoiler Alert, (see what I did there?
) it's working correctly.
You Tube
I've been averaging 17 mpg (US) in my 2001 996 C2 with Tiptronic - mostly highway since last summer. Just curious, what is your typical mpg in the 996?
can you report back when this is done i want to see how the work comes out i want to send my steering out to get done as well i have wood on my wheel too 4 spoke. btw how expensive was it?
You should inspect\replace rear brake shoes and rotors if your e-brake lever is that high when in use. It should only be 2-4 clicks to engage. I recently posted a DIY on here for reference.
I'm between 19 and 21mpg, manual trans. Prolly 1/3 freeway, 1/3 city, 1/3 hilly(not sure where that fits). If after filling I immediately drive it on the freeway for 20-30 miles, it ends up around 24. I was quite surprised. Also, I'm running 94 octane. Seemingly rare in California
Ok, well that confirms my nose that the car is running rich and I need to get the injectors done. I also have no record of the fuel filter ever being changed (on a 2001 it is located outside the fuel tank) so I will get that done at the same time.
Thanks!
Smarter guys than me will chime in here, but when the mileage takes a nosedive on almost any vehicle equipped with 02 sensors, it's most likely a bad sensor. They are easier to change than the injectors, and can be checked with the right scan tool.
FWIW, Greg.
Thanks - I will follow up on that with my durametric. Just need the roads to be dry enough to run it for an hour on the highway to get up to temp.
I replaced all 4 O2 sensors with Bosch units when I changed the exhaust about two years ago, but anything is possible.
Thanks!
u need to pay attention to the short and long term fuel when u run the durametric. There is a good youtube on explaining the numbers. U need to look for vacuum leaks too.
Update on putting the transmission back in. Thanks for the replies to my previous post.
It turns out I already had a 2 foot extension left over from when I worked on Italian 4wd cars just as fiddly at these... I just didn't think to use my extension and universal joint socket for the removal step and I also mistakenly did not remove the front mount which was also part of the problem.
So last night I fastened all transmission bolts loosely just turning the extension using my fingers including the top bolt just by wiggling the front of the transmission with my other hand. Due to the frustration reported previously, I had been dreading this job but they all went on within 20 minutes!! It is so satisfying when you have the right tools for the job.
Deporto,
Where did you get your Numeric Short Shift? Web-site or local? I live on L.I. also and have a 2001 996 and have been thinking about the Porsche GT3 short shift from Suncoast. Your comments started me thinking there might be options. Also is there a video somewhere that I can look at for the install? Thanks!
I went to work for awhile yesterday and that depleted most of any motivation I had. I got out the polishing ball, some of that Mothers polish and went to work on the exhaust tips. An improvement. I may have to order up some of the Heavy Metal polish.
Replaced the worn OEM shift ****/ boot.
What I thought would be a simple 2 minute job turned into an extremely frustrating hour.
After 23 years that shift **** didn�t want to move.
I bought directly through numeric. They were running a sale but i actually got a refurbed unit with full lifetime wareentee for a slightly better price. Give them a call or wait for a sale as they are very easy to deal with.
added a rear wiper
Tiny pilot hole drilled from the inside, then one size larger hole drilled from the outside.
Used the unibit to drill out to 7/8", that's as large as it would go. The hole needs to be 26mm but works just fine for the mock up.
Grommet installed and wiper motor bolted in.
I've been working on some new wheels for my 996 for about a year now. These are old HRE's. Maybe 525's? I haven't been able to find much info on them. The were originally a Pcar bolt pattern that someone changed to BMW pattern. Now I've had them changed back. I had them refinished, re-barreled and lipped at a place in Mocksville, NC called Ehrlich Wheelworks. I used some specs found on Apex wheels website and due to part constraints ended up just slightly more aggressive. Something like 9mm front and 2mm rear more aggressive than the narrow body 996 recommendations from Apex. I really didn't want to have to roll my fenders so I went with the "narrower tire option" from the same Apex site. Even after putting them on the car, I was still worried they were going to rub. I am happy to report they don't rub at all! The aggressive fitment is exactly what I wanted.
How I got the wheels
New size vs factory size
My brothers 993
My brothers 993
I love 'em
Nice! I always admire when someone does their homework! I�ve been looking at the Apex recommendations for NB 996.1 cars as well and I am with you - don�t want to go too aggressive and end up with rubbing.
so what are the wheel dimensions and tire sizes that you went with?
The wheel builder ordered lips and barrels to get as close to these specs as possible. I believe we ended up with 18x8.5 et33 in the front and 18x11 et58 in the rear.
Here's the tire specs
looks sharp. much better than the stock pic. congrats.
and either I'm drunk already or you have some weird fisheye thing going on with some of the 'new' pics...weird
You may be drunk, but I am guilty of misusing and overusing the wide angle lens on my iphone. I now regret it but its the pics I have. Ill do better going forward.
That looks fantastic! Love white cars, especially when clean.
Not as exciting but I'll be fixing my heat / foam flying from vents issue. Picked up this foam from Amazon to use
Amazon
Amazon
Well not really to but for my car. I finished signing up for 3 different pca hdpe days.
April 17-18 at mid-ohio, mid-ohio pca
May 14-16 at watkins glenn, potomic pca
Aug 27-29 at vir, potomic pca
Not near as interested in racing as Zbomb, but i like going to new places.
I woke up this morning and said to myself, "Self, I'm sorry but it's just too nice for work so I'm afraid you're going to have to call in sick". So I did.
Went for a drive.
The cliffs...
They are unstable...
Since the car was all warmed up, I decided to change the oil before tomorrow's big SMOG test.
Old oil looked good.
Magentic plug looked good.
Filter pleats good.
So, fresh oil and a new filter and I'm ready for my SMOG test.
I installed a new IPD Competition plenum and reinstalled my 997 GT3 throttle body.
I now have one of Ben�s Plenums that allows for a 997 GT3 throttle body in a C2 if anyone is interested.
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...ad=47433965052
Last weekend I was driving and the low coolant light started flashing.
I stopped the engine and when I restarted it was fine.
The coolant was above minimum so I assumed the UAOS diaphragm had failed.
I �drained� my accumulator and all I got was 1 drop.
I�m going to hopefully get a chance to go for a drive this weekend and I�ll test the UAOS with my manometer.
I am curious of the low coolant light flashing too. I too have IPD Competition plenum and a 997 GT3 throttle body. I talked to Skip about it and he sent me a replacement sensor for the UAOS. I just got the car back on the ground last Sunday (had it up for 0.5qt increase in oil pan change) and been driving it everyday this week. I will get the low coolant light flashing everyday but at different times (it was consistently on right before the water temp hits 100). The low coolant light would go gone either right before the 100 or later at the 180 water temps. Funny thing is, after I turn off the car, come back in a few minute and start it up, the warning is gone.
I plan to reach out to Skip again with my results of the new coolant sensor, but saw this post and wonder if the IPD is contributing to this warning light somehow.....
Paddlefoot - pedal didn�t feel right. Spring didn�t appear broken on inspection. But there are internals in the housing that may have worn. New spring housing feels normal. Just went with URO.
Doing the injector thing too. Not a lot of fun, not much room to work. Did it without dropping the motor or removing all that much other than moving hoses out of the way and SAI pump and air filter. Most of the day.
Well I�m not sure how a stiff spring would feel. But, mine was feeling too light before I replaced it. I think a stiff spring would be annoying and unnecessary for a 300hp car. However, If mated to a springless friction plate then it will give the illusion the car has more power than it does.
my 2001 C4 with my brother today. Good day over all around. Feels really tight and great control side to side and under braking. Still pretty comfortable left at the 15/30 setting. We definitely had some challenges along the way but it
was a first attempt for me and second for my brother (on a TT). We were surprised that the alignment also seemed fine, pulling just a little left and that was at highway speed. I will still get a professional alignment. Great improvement. Can�t wait to really get into it. I am obviously not a photojournalist. But anyway, a good day.
All the talk lately about clutch pedal springs, and test driving a 2004 996 C2 on Saturday that had a much lighter pedal than mine, I decided to see why my pedal is so heavy.
Here’s the reason:
I ordered a new one.
I figured my old knee will thank me when I go back to daily driving...someday.
Here is how mine looked once it failed...
I didn't mind the heavy feeling clutch when driving aggressively and shifting quickly but it wasn't the best feeling to deal with in traffic.
I finally got to hear some Fisters, with catless x-pipe on Saturday.
It sounds much more raw than my Fabspeed Maxflow mufflers.
I
REALLY
liked how it sounds!
Now I'm tempted to trade my Fabspeed Maxflows for some Fisters.
Replaced the driver seat upper leather cover today. Old onwcwas badly worn. Lucky to find an original brand new one at teile.com, not cheap but a great result.
New leather upper cover in place
Old worn one
Original porsche nephrite green leather seat upper cover
Finally went for a drive!
First time in almost 6 weeks.
52 degrees out and the recent rain has melted most of the snow and washed the salt off the roads.
Went for a 160 mile trip today after using my Durametic to clear a P2096 code, my 1st CEL that got triggered last night. (O2 sensor ageing Delay Bank 1). No issues and CEL didn't return (yet). Scheduled an oil change for next monday and both post-cat O2 sensors will be replaced at the same time.
One Year Update
So it's been one year since I brought my '99 C2 home. Here are the stats:
7,600 miles driven. The PO drove it 5,300 miles in 3 years
Two HPDE events and a third one coming up
Around $5,500.00 spent on maintenance. Mostly elective, including:
Original PPI
Air/cabin filters
Hood struts. It was trying to kill me
Stereo replacement
Horn/airbag bracket
Spark plugs/coils/tubes
Brake fluid (this is the only thing I paid a mechanic to do)
Fuel filter (I lied, the mechanic did this at the same time)
Coolant tank replacement (not elective)
Spoiler rubber bellows replacement (also not elective)
Coolant flush/water pump/thermostat replacement
Replace all lug bolts. Some were rusty
Full detail
LN magnetic drain plug
Two oil changes
Tires
The car has ran great except for the time when the coolant tank was leaking. So far I love the way the car drives and hope to keep it forever!
What I don't like: I feel like I need to be careful when I'm driving it to avoid looking like "one of those Porsche guys" or getting into pissing contests with other drivers. Also, not being able to take it for short drives.
Next up: Hopefully fix the clunky shifting and figure out why it idles a little rough sometimes.
I bought a smoke machine.
At my SMOG test last weekend I failed on NOx. It went from 1 PPM on my last test two years ago to 467 PPM. It seems that checking for vacuum leaks is the best first step.
I'm on the edge of my ignorance here, but if a vacuum leak causes engine to run rich and have high NOx, how does it go away at higher RPM?
It's strange to me that you were high at 1600rpm, but quite low at 1800rpm.
I know vacuum leaks have more impact at low rpm since the intake air is less, and the leak is a greater percentage of the overall air volume. But that's usually idle vs WOT. 1600 to 1800rpm doesn't seem like a huge difference for such a huge NOx difference.
Anyone smarter on this topic able to help me understand?
I'm also questioning their measurement. BUT, I don't really know what I'm talking about.
I haven't seen a test with a sniffer probe in a really long time. OBD1 cars. Maybe 15 years? I recall the measurements were at idle and 2500rpm. That fell away to the dyno test to better represent the loaded exhaust. Now they just check the computer for codes, readiness, and visual inspection for mods. My last smog took all of 5 minutes.
I agree that 1600 to 1800 doesn't seem to be a big enough change. Was the car on a dyno with the wheels turning at speed or did they just change the throttle to 2 different positions?
The thinking is that you should drive it until it's fully warmed up or at least 20 miles. That way you make sure you don't get a high concentration of fuel in the oil which can cause bore scoring and eat away the rubber on the IMSB. The town center I go to all the time is only 2 miles away from me. If I let myself, I could be doing a lot of 4-5 mile round trip drives in it.
My guess is because it takes 10-15 minutes to bring oil up to full temp and several experts have mentioned how bad it is for these engines to be driven just for short trips when cold. On a recent bore scoring webinar with Jake, Charles , Lake, and Tony, one of them mentioned he wouldn't drive a 996 unless it was at least a 20 minute trip. Again, this is just my assumption of what ssherman68 was referring to.
I agree with their logic. Every Saturday [weather permitting] I drive the 996 to a car club breakfast thing, and I live only 1.5 miles away. I always leave early and do a 25-30 mile drive to get it completely warmed up...and to enjoy the drive itself.
Fair enough, though I don't stick to a 20 mile minimal limit. I just went for a 12 mile round trip drive, but the engine was warmed up enough. I think...
Yeah I don't stick to the 20 mile minimum all the time either. I at least make sure the coolant gets to 180. But it's a bummer that I can't just go the 2 miles down the hill to the store and back all the time.
It's my understanding that high NOx is indicative of a lean condition which is why I was going to check for vacuum leaks as a first step. The only thing different from the two SMOG tests are that I replaced the coils and plugs. It also has a different airbox so I was even thinking maybe I cracked the oil fill tube when I was swapping it out.
Yes, on the dyno with the sniffer in the bank 2 pipe.
https://youtu.be/A-FV62DQpEQ
Of course. More unmetered air, so not enough fuel, runs lean. Thanks.
I still wonder why 1600rpm was so bad but 1800 was great. Is 1600 under load and 1800 cruising?
I'm sure there is someone smarter than me that would have a logical explanation but I'm baffled by the readings too. The only difference was 1st gear vs 2nd gear.
I got as far as putting on the three heat shields on this afternoon and it was too cold. Came inside for beer and checked the Auto Atlanta diagrams to make sure I wasn't missing any parts.
Removed front bumper, then cleaned out the leaves and debris from between the radiators and condensers.
Removed the GT wing off the back. (due to scratches in deckled, it will have to go back on.
Removed the flat black wrap from the frunk lid.
Topped off my Tip's fluid using my new iCarSoft POR v1.0 to read the actual temp. See this thread for a video and more info...
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...or-v1-0-a.html
Used Spraymax 2k high gloss. Amazing stuff. Sanded crosshatch for about 5 min each. Then, if you later properly, unlike me, 3 coats should do it. Layer it a bit heavier and you won't need 6 coats. But yeah. The actual work of the process took about 20 min. Spray time was 15 min between each coat.
Installed cylinder head heat shields that were missing when I bought the car. Guess original ones thrown out when the bigger coil packs were installed.
Had to make a 26 miles round trip run for VVT Solenoids for a client’s vehicle.
Had my choice of vehicles to take.
Decided to shuffle cars around and take my 996.
That 26 miles trip through the backroads took two hours.
A couple of work related calls delayed the bumper install till later today. Got it put back on and went for a couple of loops around 93 and 293. Got the flat spots off the tires. One exhaust tip sticks out further than the other but I'll see about that later. The Fisters are really comfortable. Not much different cruising, but when you get on it, the sound appears. I'm satisfied. I think it's a nice compromise. No problems with engine lights other than MPH exceeded, whatever that means. Time to move on to other diagnostics, (not today), oil sample, pull the sump and scope, change to Driven oil, and take some of those vacuum/pressure readings.
Hooked it up to a smoke machine to check for vacuum leaks. No sign of any leaks so back to the drawing board to figure out why
I'm failing smog
because of high NOx.
Another issue is that although the coolant shows it's up to temp "180" ish the oil lags behind it. When the oil does not get to full operating temp and stay there for 10-15 minutes then all the moisture that is in the engine does not get burned off. Worse is that when the engine is shut down before it reaches full oil temp the moisture in the engine turns to water and clings to parts. I've taken oil caps off after a short run and it was covered in water droplets, the dip sticks that are steel would have rust on them. This is in aircraft engines but I would think some of this is happening to our engines, regardless of who builds it. Just my 2 cents.
They've sold the 441+ for years. It's not a new thing. Essentially, the 441 used to come with name brand Swift springs and now it comes with generic springs. What they sell as the 441+ comes with the Swift springs and they charge a little bit more for it. I have the Feals with the generic springs, and I'm very happy with them. The damper adjustability works really well and you can dial it in. The key is don't put them on full soft and expect good ride quality. You have to have them above 20 out of 30 clicks (hard) to get them to start getting the damping matched to the springs. If you go full soft it will ride very harshly and feel like it doesn't handle well. I'd go as far as to say they transformed the car's handling.
Thanks for your response and I would never put them on soft, I'd probably set them at 25 and see what the ride and cornering is like. I don't take the car the to the track but I love winding roads and love to drive the car hard thru the turns. Thanks again, I value your response.
I replaced my broken clutch pedal helper spring.
(It has been broken since I bought my 996)
I'm going to have to get used to the MUCH lighter clutch pedal feel.
This will do wonders for my aging knee, and maybe my wife will enjoy driving my 996 now.
She has only driven it 3 times in almost 4 years of ownership.
I may lose some clutch feel, but at least this should stop my Tiptronic swap thoughts.
Since I'm in line for a F6I rebuild, I'd decided to not swap to a Tiptronic 996, but it still nagged in the back of my head until I got a chance to drive
@Z996Z
's 996 and realized I
HAD
to replace my helper spring.
Also Z996Z got me wanting to swap my Fabspeed Maxflows for Fisters.
I may stick with my Fabspeed due to the cost, but WOW are his Fisters nice to listen to...I think he has a radio, but I don't know why.
That's where mine are set too.
If you want a nice stiff but not TOO stiff setting, that's it.
I dial mine down a touch when my wife is going to be in the car.
The kids, and other occupants, have to deal with the stiffer 23/25 settings.
BTW, do you have the Feal springs, or the Swift springs?
It works as advertised. It looks like it was assembled from off the shelf parts that probably cost less than $50 but I didn't mind paying $100 for someone else to source the parts, assemble it and ship it to me.
The weather was finally over 50* so i finally got to drive my car after the engine out maintainence. I got a nice 25mile ride in after work. Everything seems to be good. No more start up rattle, oil leaks look fixed and all the new parts r working well together.
the only bad thing is the new oil pressure sender is reading lower then the old one. Not really worried about it becsuse at 200k miles i figure its probably correct but ill verify it off the dme or just swap the sensor again.
hopefully ill get a couple hundred miles on it before my first hdpe day april 3.
85EC's car does a stupendous job of putting the rest of ours to shame... style for days...
Thank God mine looks as good as it does from behind the wheel and it helps me forget how much better his looks from every other angle.
This one.... this one right here, right in the jellies.
No. Bank 1 is still at -3* but still well within the spec. With the motor in the car its difficult but not impossible to "cheat" the timing by rotating the cam gear back a little bit. This is something i may do.
I have narrowed it to 2 possible causes.
1. The ims to cam gear is streched. Very posible kn a 200k motor.
2. Tensioner pressure not right when timing. Less likely because i have no issues with the other 2 tensioners using the same install method. It would be easy to pull the 2 plugs and verify.
Also both sides reduced the exact same amount after the work, so that points to possibility 1.
Bottom line is that i am well within spec and i dont plan on splitting the engine, so even it it is the long chain im not gonna fix it.
Replaced engine air filter, cleaned filter box. Getting ready to put everything back together, accidentally pushed oil fill tube against AOS water hose. Merely touched, but fitting snapped sending a geyser of coolant straight up. What a mess! While removing the connector, bottom hose connector failed also. Hard to believe Porsche believed this a good idea. Yes, I�m now aware of other threads and an all metal part available ($47). Drove (in other car) to auto parts store and bought metal connector, for temporary repair. Even though new plastic part only around $23, believe I will try modifying my broken connector bracket to accept the metal connector.
Broken connector
Broken part on left. Not much meat there.
Inelegant (I know) and clamps are ugly, but works for now.
I broke the exact same flange on someone else's car (
@Z996Z
) last weekend while installing 997 GT3 throttle body & Ben's plenum.
I had an extra �ro aluminum flange.
(I bought another spare on Monday)
Everybody needs a spare.
Put battery in car, it's a beautiful day on Long Island today, so I took front bumper off, clean out the radiator wells could not believe all the leaves, branches and all the other crap that gets in there. I clean these once a year and it never gets better. Jacked the motor up slightly and put RSS motor mounts in, needed a second jack to get the passenger side mount in, man does it change the shifting. I bought the Numeric short shift and cables but that's for next weekend.
Getting ready to install a set of Litronic. Got the plasi dip off one. Idk who the heck puts plasi dip on a friggen headlight. But I only paid $100 for it.
I bought a cheap orbital polisher and some VSS goop, then attacked the swirls on the paint.
Not a bad result for a first attempt, and the polisher was SO much faster and effective than doing it by hand.
Last I heard he was still making them.
But I think I remember he was now making them out of aluminum now.
That may or may not be true.
It's a pretty good plenum, but works better without the UAOS.
The AOS hose attachment is lower on it than on the stock or IPD plenum.
Installed a set of the new headlights from Rennkit./Jtec. Quality isn�t great but livable and I think the look is quite good. Also, just installed the ducktail and PORSCHE rear deck decal
please explain what a high-speed balance is? How is it done? What kind of equipment is it done on? What are the benefits of it over a hunter Road force balance?
Long story- It was part of a body kit I purchase from a seller in the Netherlands. The other parts were not up to my standard but was able to get the ducktail to work with some extensive body work. There are probably some better options in the Us...
Yea, I am on a wait list from a company in England CSR, very very similar to the one you have, this one is Carbon Fiber. I was hoping to save a $250. shipping charge.
I thought the car handled great with the stock bars... boy was I wrong! I cold get the car to understeer and push into corners but now I'd have to go beyond reckless to get this to understeer on the street. I only put about 75 miles on the new sway bars and they're currently set at middle front and rear. I may move them to soft front, full stiff rear but I won't do that for at least 1000 miles. I want to get a good feel for the bars where they're at. I wish I would have done this sooner.
I agree about the change for the better with the sways. Progressed from stock sways to M030 to Eibach set in middle hole. Gone is most of the push under acceleration out of corners. Too me, more balanced turn in under braking. Very notable when driven aggressively on the street. Real good value performance enhancement. If you just want to make the rear adjustment only, to test what the bar does for your car, not a whole lot of $$$ and less than an hour of your time to change out.
Thanks for the reply. I�m a little bit confused, though. Are you saying you are now more prone to oversteer, or is it more neutral? Did it have any secondary impact on your steering feel and turn-in feel? I kind of remember that being a nice surprise when I upgraded my sedan�s sways, but I did it ten years ago and don�t really remember what it used to be like.
No oversteer whatsoever, it's way more neutral. Steering still feels the same, it didn't get heavier as some said they felt. Turn-in has improved and I didn't even know it was lacking. It's just immediate and it feel so much more precise. (I hope I'm explaining that correctly.)
Ran it around the city loop, drained the oil. Filled a Speeddiagnostix sample. Tomorrow the pan comes off and I'll look at the bores from the inside. Maybe get some cam deviation readings.
Flushed/bled the brakes and took my initial ride height measurements on the Feal coilovers. A little too low for my taste so hope to get it dialed in tomorrow.
Yeah. Need new tires too. So the plan is have the tire shop do an alignment. Let the suspension settled for a few hundred miles. Then have Musante Motorsports in South Windsor do the corner balance.
Hit 116,666.6 today! Wife took the pic, so no worries on the safety...we were heading up IH-10 to Junction where the speed limit is 80 mph. I slowed down for the pic, we were cruising for over an hour at 90+, had a blast! Later on doing the famous twisted sisters was a lot of fun also. We did over 320 miles today!
And oh, that mic hanging there is for my hands free setup. When I enter a car show, I push it neatly back into the hole and put the cover over. After the show, I fish it back out, works great!
Hooked up the Durametric for the first time and went for a drive. Camshaft deviation values were checked. Yes, kind of unwieldy when plugged in and driving. Changed oil to DT40, tried to scope from below after dropping the pan. Not much debris in either pan or filter. Loctite 5900 is hard to get out of the tube. Pics from pan and attempts to scope bores from bottom end are in the bore scoring thread. Oil pressure seems to fluctuate more with DT40 than 0w-40 Liquimoly.
You don't really need to check camshaft deviations while driving.
You can always rev the engine while stopped.
If you want to get readings while driving, use the logging feature.
Don't wreck your 911 because you're looking at a screen.
That was sitting in the driveway. I left it hooked up while I drove to see what would happen and it crashed after awhile. I pulled into a convenience store, fiddled with it and got it running again. Looks like the numbers are ok.
Installed Martins big rotor kit, well half of it because of a bad wheel bearing on the drivers side. The Panamara front rotor is significantly larger then the factory c2. I also installed Stoptech ss brake lines and MSI wheel studs. I went with the middle length because the brk pushed the wheel out 8mm in the front.
Do it yourself corner balance setup day: Some months ago I measured the slope of my carport to make a set of leveling ramps. Here the post:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post16892369
I finally got around to making them and testing them out. (please pretend the car on the ramps is an '02 C2 Cab, mine is in the shop)
The worst case corner is the left rear. It needs about 2" to level with the right front. The problem is that the stack height with the scale is too high. So the ramp needs to extend way back and provide a stopping point so you can get out and put the second ramp and scale under the car.
At this point the ramp and scale are put onto their risers, and you can roll up onto the scales
And now the measurements can begin! The first measurements were made before I checked the level of the scales (stupid belief that all my work is perfect and needs no cross checking). The rears were too high.
Then I sat in the car and while the left/right static balance changes from 50.8 to 53%, the corner balance does not. It seems I'm sitting equidistant between the wheels
Then I leveled the scales (doh!) Off by 0.75" lr and 0.25' rr. Remeasure! Oh, and checked tire pressure, all at 40psi now. Within 0.3%. I'd call that 'not-horrible'.
So then for fun I decide to let 10psi out of the lr. The corner balance changes 0.6% due to unloading the lr corner.
Now, take the lf down to 30psi to reset the corner balance, and it works...
Now I'm ready. Just need the car...
data attached.
Oh! And I got this cool car scent from the scale company. "New Engine Scent". Does anyone know what this smells like? Maybe if it was "New M96 Engine Scent"...
Super cool ! I�m jealous, I have really wanted to invest in scales and alignment stuff...then I blow money on parts... and then I blow money having a professional set the car up with the parts I bought !
Its a vicious cycle ! That said, going to have to at some point, now that the suspension has a lot of adjustability, I would like to be able to use it without having to pay someone to check every setup change.
Whats the details on the scales, where�d you get? How much? Do you like them ?
I looked at Intercomp, Longacre, Procomp, and Speeday. There are many models. A lot of the differences seem to be the electronics and the ability to connect to other computers or your phone or store a bunch of data. I don't need any of that. I looked for accuracy differences between the pads between the different companies, but couldn't find any detail. If there were a difference, I'm sure they'd mention it. So I'm guessing all the pads are the same. I went with the Speedway basic set. $900.00.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1-Wei...se,377644.html
. There are 2 screens: corner weights, static balance calculations. The smallest increment on the display is 0.5lbs. They are quite simple to use.
It seems all the error in using them will come from the person using them. How level they are, tire pressures, car loading, how the car is set onto them. I was surprised that 0.75" change in the rear height was 0.6% change. Conventional wisdom says they should be level to 0.125". if 0.75 is 0.6%, 0.125 would be 0.1%. I'm quite sure my driving skill cannot tell the difference in 0.6%. So I'm good with my leveling at less than 0.25".
What I found most interesting in reading is that for a road course car, you should set the static balance first, left side weight / total weight = 50%, before corner balancing. At 220lbs, I'm not sure how I would do that. A bunch of articles talk about moving stuff around in the car to do this. 220 lbs, is a lot of stuff to move. It would be interesting to see if corner balance can be used to compensate for static imbalance. More reading! I'll figure this out if/when I get a coupe for tracking.
Not sure how far down the road I'll go with my own alignment gear. Another down the road decision. We'll see...
I'm having withdrawal without this car. I find myself looking for a roller to fix up... Bloody addictions...
I believe the answer is, Yes, corner balance to negate the static imbalance and as a result you can see cars where the ride height is slightly different at each corner.
Thanks for the info on the scales... I think as far as my needs, the 2 screens on your setup would be sufficient - so thanks for doing the research for me !
If anyone in the northeast wants to go in on a community set of scales... I'd be interested !
Finished up the big rotor kit because the new wheel bearing arrived. The rotors look much better behind the rims, cant wait for martins rear kit to be available. Also flushed the brake system dor this season with Endless and tried out the new magnetic hdpe numbers.
Rims look good with the msi mid length studs, they are factory sport technos with a 50et front (pluss 8mm from the brk) and 63et rear.
Has anyone put any RSS suspension parts on their 996? I love there motor mounts and although I'm not experiencing any issues, my car is a 2001, and appears to have the original lower arms, drop links, tie rods etc and it might be a great weekend project for me. Thanks
Got the new aero front and skirts painted, so up they went. Shortly after the
Emperor
Kaiser put on his new
clothes
gear, met up with a classy Swede for lunch.
Was gibts liebling?
I drove 130 miles to Manhattan and back. Most of the streets in midtown are perfectly drivable and the sports exhaust echoing off the buildings is enjoyable, but 9th Avenue is so bad it should be closed to vehicles. I apologized to my car when we got home and promised to never abuse it like that again.
There is likely a standalone thread here: ' do you talk to your car? what do you say to it? '
I always say thank you to mine after a trip. Or "alright kiddo, let's see what's going on here' when I put it up on ramps or stands.
Broke 6 of the header bolts off on the heads trying to install my new Agency Power headers.... I spent hours last night welding nuts to whats left of the bolts but they would just shear again. Unless someone has a better suggestion, I guess I'll have to drill them all out... But for some good news, I picked up a new German friend for the Porsche and the BMW. BMW will soon be for sale.
Went to fill up with gas. Acted as if it was already full. Hmm, gas gauge has been pretty accurate, so far. My son says maybe gas vent tube blocked or flap mechanism failure. Checked E6 fuse on a whim, it was blown. Remembered I installed auxiliary 12V plug in passenger footwell, last week. Tied into “phone plug” (unused fitting under radio stack. I must have accidentally touched brown wire to chassis ground. Taped up plug, replaced E6 fuse, voila, now it accepts gas!
These studs appropriate? Not familiar with 45H steel, but BelMetric says "
Commonly used as an exhaust stud" in the description:
https://www.belmetric.com/m8x125-coa...k-p-15528.html
And for the nuts:
https://www.belmetric.com/hex-with-f...nut-p-190.html
Front and rear tires were 30 psi, and spare about 15. No sticker on door stating recommended tire pressure, tires say 51 psi max, and Porsche owner's manual says 44 psi rear, 36 psi front, and 60 psi spare. Set rears to 42 psi, fronts 35 psi, and spare 55. Our driving style is luxury not sport and we should pick up some MPG.
Jayco pressure gauge is first accurate one I have owned:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/JACO-Elit...-PSI/433859880
. Also where gauge connects to valve stem there is almost no air leakage, and the relief valve on gauge I used to very quickly bleed off excess pressure. Great tool.
It looks like the spare was used once, next time I have it out I'll armor all it, and I think the yellow and white plastic is original and was included with the 996 purchase.
Added some additional DT40 to get the oil level to where it should be after the oil change. Pressure fluctuated a bit during test drive. Settled down now. Took vacuum readings for AOS and nothing too scary there at -5.5. Enjoyed some top down time with some nice NH weather for a change. Nice to see the sun and feel some warmth. That and took a trip to the beer store for some IPA.
Ordered a set of fuel injectors, a 997 GT3 shifter, replacement metropol blue front carpets, and a couple of odd trim pieces. Also dropped my 4s off to have the front differential replaced. Just need to order my UAOS and my spending will be done for the time being.
Yesterday I finally fixed my windshield washer. It was spraying into the driver wheel well. Probably the easiest thing that I have done on this car so far, pulled the fender liner back, and the hose had just popped off the fitting going thru the strut tower. A zip tie holds it now, and finally can clear the windscreen of the huge amounts of pollen we have here right now. Also yesterday I ordered some replacement parts from Sub Zero's part out thread, door lock being one, along with an SAI pump to clear my CEL.
Always seems to be something..but thats okay, she's worth it
I may take you up on that when I get around to installing these headers. I'm sure a few of the 205k mile studs will break. The engine will be out of the car at that point though, doing a bunch of PM stuff so it wont be horrible..I hope.
Ordered new tires yesterday. Michelin PS4S 235/40 285/35. Found out I could save a decent amount by making the purchase on the local Navy base. Michelin is also running a $120 rebate until 4/5. All in for under a grand including balancing and alignment. Hopefully get them on late next week.
I retrieved my car from winter storage today.
I had forgotten what an intensely mechanical experience driving the 996 is. The engine is gruff at low speeds and a howling banshee when you wind it out, there's all kinds of whirring and clatter, the steering responds to the lightest twitch, the suspension jars but remains composed. A truly thrilling car.
That's what I run, and in the same sizes.
I'm very happy with how they perform.
I wish they made the PS4S in 295/30R18.
Nice!
That's similar to what I have, except mine are black.
I'm very happy with mine!
I'm actually itching to try these tires in the future and the 35 is appealing to me. Like a bit more sidewall. The OZ look very similar in deed! I was torn between silver and anthracite for the wheels and decided on the darker finish to contrast better against the GT Silver paint on the car. Should have them on tomorrow!
Apex.
https://www.apexraceparts.com/our-wh...tion-sm10.html
They are a sponsor here and offer a great wheel option at a good price. They seem to be very popular with the track crows and BMW owners.
My came in at 20.1lbs for front and 22.7lbs for rear. That's .1 over advertised for front and .3 over for rear. I think I'll live with that. I have my carbon bikes and wheels to obsess over weight of parts ha!
[QUOTE=plpete84;17320872]Wheels went on this morning! Look fantastic and fitment is great. The rear is perfect as is and front may or may not get some 5mm spacers.
Very well done, love the look.
Took a ride to the dentist for a filling and took it later to do some business in the afternoon while the weather was nice. Oil sample results came back good and will be posted later.
Working on my rear brakes I noticed some deterioration of the rubber on my upper control arms. Decided to start a step by step suspension refresh. I started with the rear upper control arms, the diagonal or tuning fork arms and the sway bar bushings. Only took about an hour to do each side, pretty easy. I am waiting to do the lower control arms and toe control arms until I get coilovers. Then I'll take care of the front too.
I took mine for my last drive...for a while.
I’m having surgery next week, so it might be a while before I can climb back into my 996 and go for a fun drive.
Unfortunately it was just a short 25 mile drive, that’s all I could handle.
It was fun and painful all at the same time.
It was exactly four years ago today that I brought the 996 home. Instead of a party, I took it in for my second try at passing 2021 smog. It passed with flying colors.
2019 test results.
First try for 2021 four weeks ago.
Today.
You Tube
I'm tackling the fuel injectors on the 996.1 today using the white Bosch 3.6 injectors. I've seen mentions all over that it can be done but no pictures of what actually needs to be done so I'll take photos and document it. If I'm wrong and there is a writeup, please let me know so I'm not winging it.
This had tutorial also had all the pics I needed:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
That plus the Bentley book.
Good luck!
Edit: Just noticed you said the 996.1 with 3.6 injectors. So obviously that's different!
Ha, ya, I'm following the guide but the modification of the injectors themselves is what is the question mark.
Ya, I searched for an hour last night and couldn't find one. Most recent was from last year by Jake saying that was on his todo list.
LOL, it 60 degrees and a little dreary and I went for a spirited drive with the windows down and the sunroof open. Can't match your CA scenery however. Nice photo!
Left it in garage and took my daughter out for some behind the wheel practice on some country roads in the Raptor. Let her mash the pedal to the floor with traction control on as she wanted to feel what it did....well, hopefully we got that outa the way🙃
Quote, took a nice drive out to Death Valley (before it gets too hot)
Is that an original Aerokit C4S? Very cool, wish mine was. Love the look. Very nice pics, beautiful area of the desert.
Ordered up a decent looking used manual three spoke wheel to convert to a paddle shift, based upon some of the ones I�ve seen with Mercedes sourced paddles.
Interesting your document shows actual tailpipe emissions. In Los Angeles recently our 996 passed smog and they did not put anything in tailpipe, it was OBD port and very close physical inspection only. Same when our Jag was previously checked. Only our '98 pickup still gets tailpipe check and run up on rollers.
We were there about a month ago in wife's Subie. Late winter and spring surprising how interesting and beautiful desert can be. Artist's Drive we were really enjoying the rapid ups and downs in road.
if you get out there early, before it gets crowded, the artist loop may be one of my favorite drives anywhere.... that one section between the stone cliffs... the echo from my exhaust .... seems even louder than a tunnel.
Finished up my injector swap last night. Not sure how my car was running fine though:
One of the leads for the fuel pressure regulator was disconnected. Wouldn't that manifest some type of symptom?
Easy to use, match is great - I really can't say enough about the product, except for me, the leather dye was ever so slightly off of the aged Graphite Grey in my car, but not by much. You can blend it pretty well.
This ☝️
It�s easy to use and I�ve had great results.
I watched videos from the Colourlock reps and followed their advice.
Proper cleaning /prep and lots of light coats.
I tried installing Numeric pedals. After 2 hours of trying to get my gas back pedal together, I gave up. For reseaons I can’t figure out I just can’t get the top tab to click back together. I don’t know if this will take a trip to my Indy or not. I should have just kept the RUF pedals in.
@11NEUN11
nice, how long did it take?
My first engine drop on the 964 C4 spanned 3 days, with a good chunk spent trying to get the lateral diff out. I feel like a 996 c2 would be a lot easier.
i had a 1967 Kellison Dune buggy. VWs have similar setup but this was my first Porsche engine drop. I took my time and worked on it a little bit at a time over a week.
Apparently the Quickjacks provided enough clearance for the removal? I would be interested in how you gained the clearance beyond the supplied rubber blocks if additional clearance was required.
Yep, me too! Please take a pic of the side so I can see what you have their to raise the car.
And please measure from the ground to the chassis, interested in seeing the number...
Quickjack with both sets of blocks and a DIY set of lifting pucks provided enough clearance for me to drop the engine with a low profile long reach jack with a crossbeam.
I do not use the rubber blocks, instead I use the SUV adapters. Hopefully these are the pics you are looking for to see how I was able to lower my engine.
I changed out my coils and 1 plug today (had a cylinder 3 misfire CEL and associated symptoms, and the plugs were done by the PO 1000 miles ago, so I just changed the cylinder 3 plug). Now, for many on here this is a pretty elementary job, but for me this was my first foray into wrenching aside from changing tires. That�s one reasonI bought this car...to learn how to do a bit of my own maintenance and repairs. Parts are plentiful and this and other forums are an amazing resource. The job didn�t exactly go quickly or smoothly, but that is down to me resisting taking off the mufflers. The good news is that issues are cured and the car has some extra giddy-up. AND I discovered the car has the Fister mod! No wonder it sounds so epic!!!
Finally got my Numeric pedals installed. Really enjoying these after quick drive. It’s a lot easier to flick the gas pedal with the side of my foot. I will say getting the gas pedal back together was a pain in the ***.
Unsuccessfully tried to get the yellowing out of my headlights. The kit came with 600 grit sandpaper. I wonder if I need to go coarser. It seems like the yellowing is on the inside of the headlight, but maybe it's just in my mind.
When it's been bad enough I have started with 320. The big thing is to really work all the next grits up slowly. You will need to go to 400, 600, 800 and so on, with each successive grit you will sand twice as long to eliminate all previous scratches. Hope this makes sense. Then get some sort of UV protectant on them soon, or they will yellow very quick. I have real good luck with Cerakote, check Amazon.
Thanks, Gentlemen. This was my second attempt. I tried a a couple years ago with the same result so I sanded longer this time with no luck. I�ll try again with some coarser stuff.
May I ask which model of quickjack this is and can you comment on how stable and "confidence inspiring" things felt with the car up in the air like that? I'm very interested in getting a set of these having seen your pics but I have a a strong aversion to squirrely feeling, lifted heavy things.
Thanks!
Quick Jack 5000 SLX. It is very stable. I do not feel comfortable under anything that isnt rock solid. I have done some projects where I used jacks and did not feel comfortable going under the vehicles.
Sorry, one other question. What are the round metal pucks on the top of the SUV extension lifting pad. I don't see those anywhere on the quickjacks site. Are they pinch weld adapters? I see the rubber pinch weld adapters but not what I see in your pictures.
Thanks again.
Those look awesome, and glad you love them! And sorry, the cable pull Porsche's are a little more work for the gas pedal. But our install mirrors the same exact process as it would for stock. We went for the OEM fitment, aftermarket performance.
Its nothing to do with you guys. But getting all the pieces back together, while keeping the cable in its slot and getting the tabs to click in was a total **** show. You need three hands and you’re working on one elbow while bent over in the footwell. Also, my car didn’t have nearly the range of slack in the cable that the car in your install video had so that made it even more challenging. I still don’t think my top tab is completely clipped in but I was able to hold it together while getting the top screw in and get it buttoned up.
I cleaned out my radiators and added some screens to keep out the debris. I found some black aluminum screen on Amazon. Cut to size and used some large head short self tapping screws. I saw a video of someone using a paint stick to bend the edges down and that worked like a charm.
rotten good luck - I took my truck in for brakes and used the 911 for errands
pull into the garage - in a bit of a hurry and while I normally let the engine idle for
a few seconds, I immediately shut it off
right away I noticed when I opened the door - no lights, I figured the ignition switch (known issue)
was a goner...not a problem as I have one stored
then (gasp) I do the unforgivable and lose the key - only to find it 6 hours later, it had slid under a table leg
double check everything this morning and I get the jump pack hooked up to release the frunk
rotten good news - battery is dead - just another 33 monther, that's about what I'm averaging
-
PSA
no more
Bosch Batteries
, Pep Boys has had them inexpensively enough the 2x I've needed them
but they just don't last - despite being maintained by a C-Tek
more good news, I had bought a battery for my truck just prior to a cold spell in February
it's been intermittently on and off a maintainer for 9 weeks - double checking now, I think it's a direct fit
so I'll try the Die Hard AGM in the Carrera and buy a Mopar for the truck
.....very impressed by these
(OEM factory unit is @ 8 years now)
I guess I got lucky with my Bosch AGM. Going on 5 years and still strong. My car sat in my unheated detached garage for two months this winter while I was sick and then started right up. I've read many threads where they don't last, so when it goes, I'll replace it with something else. But I have to say it's been great so far.
Painted my front brake calipers along with new Porsche decals. Half the clear coat had pealed off and looked dull. Kept them the same gloss black so I didn't need to remove them.
Sanded the flat areas and scuffed all the nooks, cleaned with brake cleaner, then alcohol, applied 3 coats Duplicolor caliper enamel, applied decal and then applied 3 coats VHT caliper clear coat. The decals were purchased on Etsey (4/$10) and are upsized to 4.25" (bigger decals = more stopping power
). Instructions say to drive the car to heat up and cure the paint, I guess I'll have to do that today (darn!). Duplicolor and VHT are the same company. We'll see if they hold up and if not I'll get them powder coated the next time I do pads, rotors, fluids.
Picked up my car after a full suspension refresh and alignment. Nice weather, top down, music from the Fisters, and an empty very curvy highway. Life is good.
Thanks, and sure. I'm in San Diego. You need to get here before 6 tho, ping me when your 10 min away.
There are a ton of youtube vids. The prep is very important, then thin coats so no runs and you want your base and clear coats to be the same type of paint. Use caliper specific paint, not engine enamel for example. If you want to change the color you should probably take them all the way off. Oh, and once you start painting allow a couple of hours start to finish. IOW, don't paint the black then wait a day to paint the clear. Instructions say to paint the clear within two hours after the base coat. I almost missed this part.
***BUT - it's easy to look good when freshly painted, time will tell if I did a good job.
It's like a new car. There is a sharp sweeping curve on the highway I mentioned and there was no body roll at all. The car seemed very planted. I had some some squeaks and squeals before and they're gone but the biggest improvement was the feel of the car in sharp curves at speed. After 21 years, it was due. It wasn't cheap but I think it was worth it.
[QUOTE=DSC800;17350224]Painted my front brake calipers along with new Porsche decals. Half the clear coat had pealed off and looked dull. Kept them the same gloss black so I didn't need to remove them.
Sanded the flat areas and scuffed all the nooks, cleaned with brake cleaner, then alcohol, applied 3 coats Duplicolor caliper enamel, applied decal and then applied 3 coats VHT caliper clear coat. The decals were purchased on Etsey (4/$10) and are upsized to 4.25" (bigger decals = more stopping power
). Instructions say to drive the car to heat up and cure the paint, I guess I'll have to do that today (darn!). Duplicolor and VHT are the same company. We'll see if they hold up and if not I'll get them powder coated the next time I do pads, rotors, fluids.
If you don't mind, where did you get the Porsche stickers for the calipers?
[QUOTE=c210rg;17351260]
Sure, they are on Etsy, seller: "Decals305". They come and go on ebay too. My stickers are the 110mm size.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsch-DECA...oAAOSw7KJgGBP2
Ok, I always hated the Lobster fork wheels on 997s, and even more on 996s.
Then I saw some on 996.1 aerokits and really liked them.
I decided I ONLY liked them on 996.1 aerokits.
But now I have to admit I like how the 996.1 non-aerokit above looks with lobster forks.
Wait the car above has amber lights too...and I LIKE it...what's happening?!?!
Probably.
I had my 1-week post-surgery follow up today.
I actually quit taking pain killers a couple of days ago, and just suffered with a little pain.
I actually drove my 996 to the appt and back.
Except for the seat belt, I enjoyed the drive.
Day 4 of my 2000 Porsche 996 ownership and thought I would check the oil. How do you read this orange dipstick? The oil is new and I can't tell where the level is.
Then im guessing its too low. It should be checked in a cold motor on flat ground and be half way between the 2 drilled holes. Put it in the sunlight and u can see the oil reflect.
bmchan, congrats on getting your 2000 996!
My oil dipstick is orange plastic and the oil should be near the top of the knurled section, not at the very top or above the top.
There is also a very clever display of oil level just to the lower left of your fuel gauge. Turn on the ignition, but don't start the car. Wait a few seconds and a crescent will appear that shows solid bars for the oil level. Best is a couple of bars below the top as it's important not to overfill the oil. Should be done with oil cold and the oil level gauge counts down seconds until it displays. A cool gadget!
I gave it a quick wash because I may take the hard top off in the next couple of days if the rain holds off - and I like to put the top away clean. I also "installed" a new gas cap (attached the tether).
I changed my motor mounts this afternoon. The hardest part was taking off the mass air sensor connector. All in all, about 1.5 hours including lifting the car up.
Made a difference in the shifting; no longer a snug push into first when cold.
Got my horn working again, although it took three tries this morning. Left for Newcomb's at 7am only to find that my car was honking on its own as I turned the wheel. That would be pretty embarrassing so had to fix it. Thought I got it working only to find I had no horn but whatever, I was running late for my drive so I'd make due with no horn (canyons seem to be the only place I use the horn though). In my haste, my steering wheel wasn't aligned vertically. Fixed all that when I got home today.
From last night:
This is a terrible job to do but wrapped my cats with lava wrap (yes, I'm aware of possible concerns) since I won't be running a rear bumper bar and heat shield so this will help prevent my bumper from melting.
Built a rolling storage unit for jacks, stands, and liftbars. Takes little space, quick to position items at vehicle, and expect system will raise a 996 high enough to drop engine.
Anybody see the headlights on the Porsche GT? Looks a lot like a car built more than 20 years ago, those "ugly" lights on a 996.
https://autos.yahoo.com/former-top-g...160000594.html
Dropped her off at the shop for IMS solution pre-qualification and install along with RMS, AOS and clutch plus whatever else they come across. Miss her already.
Got new liftbars and Esco jackstands. Now i can get under the car easily and safely.
Took the wheels over to the tire store to have new Sumitomo HTR Z5's installed. Much nicer than the old worn out tires - quieter, grippier, smiler!
Is there any specific OBD scanners that work well with the 996? Looking to buy one and really looking for help, I buy a lot of tools from Harbor Freight and I know they have scanners but would go else where for a good one. Thanks for any help.
Put the 2022 reg sticker on my technically illegal replica plate.
And then put the plate on the car. We'll see how long it takes me to get pulled over.
I replaced my water pump, coolant tank, thermostat, and belt on my '99. What a pain in the butt. The coolant tank was extremely easy but the water pump, especially the long bolt right next to the crank pulley was a complete pain in the butt. It leaked after I put it back together too so I removed everything again and retorqued and it now seems to be holding fine. My Airlift vacuum tool only pulled around 15 PSI of vacuum (the instructions recommend 24-26) but the vacuum didn't bleed down so hopefully there are no leaks.
The pump and thermostat were original! I was very surprised.
Took the car for some errands. Tidied up the garage a bit so I could get to the work bench. Started working on the conversion of a manual steering wheel to a paddle shifted version with the help of a couple of posts in various forums. Ended up looking pretty much the same, but when I went to test with one of my meters for continuity, whether the switch closed was dependent upon how tight the screw was turned and if I grabbed the top of the paddle, it didn't always make contact. Back to the drawing board...
Replaced some burned out bulbs in the 3rd brake lights (regular and spoiler). I had replaced one fixture when I bought the car 11 years ago because it was cracked. I held onto it and 11 years later I salvaged some of the bulbs. Sometimes things work out.
I found that the paddles didn't have enough travel when I tightened the screw to hold it in place. I saw that others have filed off the metal on the back of the paddle (the pieces that protrude when the paddle is engaged). I tried gluing a small piece of plastic between those metal ends and it seems to work fine with nice solid feel. It creates a space for the paddles to travel without hitting the back of the wheel. Very happy with the mod!
I�m 5�8� with short legs...I like to sit leaned back quite a bit and the wheel extended out almost as far as possible. I find my right knee is hard again the console at all times. Strongly considering this mod even though it�ll mean the end of my Rennline phone mount.
So, if you have your hands higher up on the wheel and just grab the top of the lever, it's shifting ok, ie switch makes contact. I have one I ground down the metal you mentioned, the other not. Maybe some more material removal might help with paddle travel. I'll work on it some more, maybe this evening.
Speaking for myself, it's really only a knee room problem on the track. I push my knee into the center console so hard keeping myself in place that over a full track weekend I'll end up with a sore and severely bruised right knee. I'm about to purchase racing seats and harnesses plus I made this mod to try and alleviate this problem once and for all.
Had a little fun on the ride home along I-95. Black 991 Turbo S with a roof rack pulled along side and gave a big thumbs up. Then plenty of open road. My first time over 7k RPM.
I am going to replace my coil packs and spark plugs in the next 2 weeks on my also01 996, the car has 45500 miles on it, should I also be replacing the tubes? Thank you.
My lower AOS flex pipe finally came in so I can finish the UAOS install. The new OEM one is actually flexible. The old one was super brittle and snapped in half but I guess constant heat cycles will do that to plastic pipes over 16 years!
Thanks! That's a solid tip as I didn't think of that. Will go that route if need be. The goal was to fish the intakes onto it. Let's just say I've gotten pretty good at removing them
Wasn't today, but recently...got the PCCM Plus installed! I'll be back with some pics of the car next week when it's back from Redline Restorations where they are doing a full body paint correction and lifetime Ceramic Pro application on the car
I installed a Pioneer double din unit with wireless Carplay a year ago at half thje price. As I get in the car with my iphone in my pocket, it connects.
What model audio? Pioneer AVH-W4500NEX $646.35 from Crutchfield. I also got Metra 99 Porsche Kit 99-96058, $6.55. Metra wire harness 70-1787, $4.36, and Audiovox ACA800 backup camera, $69.99.
Works great. I'm happy. On a long drive I plug my phone in to charge, otherwise phone stays in my pocket.
Can you post a pic of the install? I�ll look that up on crutchfield. Maybe with my less than perfect eyesight, backing up by Braille, might not be a good idea.
Stock manifolds have seen about 1500 miles since the most recent rebuild so my experience may not be representative, but no. Still went through the typical preventative measures (PB blaster and hammer taps) anyway though.
nrp3, here's a pic of the Pioneer audio in my 996. The wire you see in the open space is to charge my phone on long trips, otherwise phone stays in my pocket. Voice controls through microphone tucked in dash nearby.
Installed my RSS engine mounts today! Old stock mounts were sagged pretty badly, even with only 19k miles on the clock. Dogs approved, vibration at idle is gone and shifting is smoothed even on a cold box. Install was easy minus one mistake that cost me a half hour (didn�t get the drivers side mount seated properly, nut spun the mount around and required the help of my wife to rectify the situation as the nut wouldn�t come off without me holding the top section steady with a wrench).
I also decided to pay someone else to do my 997 coils and new plugs rather than trying to wrestle them in the driveway.
Dog approved!
Flushed the brake fluid. The previous owners haven�t had it done since 2012!! Put in motul 600 and will be doing my first track day with the car tomorrow, can�t wait.
Installed a Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX with wireless CarPlay. Works very well. Picked it up from Crutchfield, along with a Metra surround which matches the existing dash finish.
Rear seat delete. Saved 23.6 lbs according to the bathroom scale. More than I put on during Covid, so I guess that diet can wait.
After finding out that Suncoast charges $725 for the kits to cover holes and hardware, I'm going to design my own. I'll start a thread to gauge interest after I've printed some pieces.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/996RSD.html
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99XRBHW.html
I had the same thought after removing my rear seats! It's cheaper to buy a quite good 3D printer and spend a few hours prototyping some designs than to pay for the OEM stuff. It's just a bunch of small pieces of plastic! I'm excited to see what you come up with.
Replaced my cracked 3rd brake light with this German made LED smoked light from FVD Brombacher.
This seems to be a high quality light. It includes the proper resistor so as not to affect voltage drops. It also has a high quality rubber gasket. I had read a review that the one from some of the cheap eBay ones had low quality gaskets or lacked the resistors so for $100 I took a chance. So far so good.
Me too.
With the rollbar already installed it was hard enough to tuck them in.
I don't know that I'll ever be able to remove mine completely.
The rollbar was tough to install by myself...but really I doubt more hands would have helped!
Sorry, but there�s a bit more to the story that I unintentionally left out. My car, being a 2003, uses the MOST system which Crutchfield recognizes as a system that will not support the Pioneer 2 DIN unit I installed. However, one of the previous owners of my car installed a Kenwood 2 DIN unit about 5-6 years ago. To enable this change from the original unit, he also installed new amplifier. So, there�s more that needs to be purchased and installed in addition to the Pioneer unit I mentioned. If you don�t mind the change from the originally installed head unit, it�s a nice upgrade.
I don't mind changes that include adapters and other items that don't amount to much permanent change to the car. I'll set aside my original head unit that works. I saw that Crutchfield lists these Pioneers and many others as not compatible, but people are doing it. I assuming their criteria is fairly broad in that either they haven't tried it or more than the usual install work.
I have the SeaSucker as well and it's a great solution! You sometimes get funny looks from other drivers when they see a bike on the top with no typical roof racks. Nice bike btw
It just feels WEIRD knowing nothing is actually bolted on, but everyone I know who has them swears by this system.
Thanks for the compliment, don't go by this pic but bike is PTS in 356 Aetna Blue 😎
Another numeric pedal install. Took less then a hour on a y2k car. Only issue u had it snapped a little bit if the female ball socket on the gas pedal. Its still seated firmly and cant fall out so im leaving it.
It's definitely sturdy enough as to most people looks like normal suction cups while they are more like heavy duty vacuum suction cups that have held on my gravel bike at 80mph
I just always make sure I attach them to a clean surface. It works better and faster than me putting my bike into my old car!
Very cool steed and nicely put together!
Get yourself a good mechanics/detainers rolling seat because you’ll be there at least an hour. I used some ideas from the recent PCA Tech Talk video to get to the deep, or tight spaces. I started off with taking the air box out. This gives ample access to the engine front. I then used diluted Zep degreaser to clean whatever and oil or grease residue. I used numerous soft rags to wipe down everything, and leave no residue. Honestly, the previous owner took good car of the car, so there was minimum build-up. Once done, I used a soft bristled car detailing brush (one of many) dedicated for use in the engine bay to clean other localized areas not fully touched by degreaser. The soft bristled brush is key to getting most of the corrugated, raised, or depressed piping/tubing areas. I then used two ideas from the PCA video that talked about using chop sticks and bamboo cooking sticks to teach and get into the crevices. Using Aerospace 303 as a lubricant, I used the chopstick covered with a microfiber towel to clean all the difficult to get areas. THen the tight edges were reached with the tip of the pointed bamboo stick, without the towel. THe interesting thing brought up, that I also experienced, was the tip of that stick will fray slightly and act as a soft, but still rigid point. When all those deep, tight areas were cleaned I used a clean detainers brush and sprayed Aerospace 303 into the bristles and then liberally brushed everything down. Hopefully this provides some ideas to emply.
After a year and 7500 miles changed oil. Porsche filter from Pelican had a new part number than the last one we got from them (old pn ends in 53, new 60). And it doesn't have the bevel but a felt pad on both sides.
Mobil 1 5W-50 is keeping inside of engine clean.
It's great Porsche filters are so easy to cut open and inspect. This time ours had black plastic bits from when I cut the old AOS in half to facilitate removal, and a very few tan plastic appearing bits that might be from chain tensioners. Previous Durametric readings for cam deviation showed they were fine. Zero visible metal.
Wireless CarPlay is available now. I have it in the Pioneer I installed last year (I think it's the same model that Nein911 installed). Unfortunately it can be subject to wireless interference that can make the sound drop for a second or two in certain areas. The first week I had it I thought it was great and couldn't understand what people were complaining about. Later I got more drop outs. The wireless is still nice but the dropouts can be annoying.
Started out my with a clean well sorted Artic Silver 2004 C4S 6SP MT coupe, had plans to do a back date using Custom Concepts parts in Netherlands but the project went sideways when the parts just didn�t fit!
Upgrades to date:
FSI 4.0 L Stage 2 engine swap, 400+ Naturally aspirated Hp to he wheel.
CF Duck Tail (only Custom Concepts part that fit decently!)
H&R Coil Over Suspension
Black Fuchs Wheels
Rennkit Headlights
PCCM+ Retrofit
love this car!
I replaced all 4 drop links. They were shot. The low speed clunk from the front is gone, and the car seems to ride tighter and not crash so much over bumps. Was weird actually seeking out bumps to go over!
The job went smoothly enough except for the tops of the rears where they screw into the shock. I couldn�t seem to turn the nut without the boot twisting and even pulling off. So it was 1/8 turn, then jiggle the link to untwist the boot, then put the wrench back on, forget which way to turn it... Made for some cursing but luckily the bands holding on the boots are strong.
Hit a rough patch, started playing with needles:
End result:
There's 3 chips that I filled in, in the above picture, only one is still visible at an angle. Also, wet sanding is a pain in the ***. I not only did my car but while I was waiting for the paint to dry, I filled in the deep scratch on the Cayenne. Note to others, mask off the area around the scratch to minimize the area you end up wet sanding.
Between the rock chips and the wet sanding learning on the fly, I spent 5 hours doing some form of paint correction today.
Granted, I also had to compound out this weird white film on the car that I hadn't noticed before and wouldn't wash out or clay bar out. So I ended up compounding and polishing the hood and fenders on my car.
Before I applied Meguiars liquid wax, I wanted to see what it'd look like if I did Meguiars Show Car glaze #7 first and then liquid wax on top. Pretty pleased with the shine:
When going around a turn and engine power getting a noise and vibration from rear of vehicle. Happens either left or right turn, let off gas pedal and coast around turn noise and vibration stops. For troubleshooting differential oil was changed.
Porsche manual and illustrated parts guide said 75W-90 oil for differential in '02 Tiptronic, and that is only weight gear oil Pelican carries on their website. Before putting in oil checked Bentley manual and it says 85W-90 for our car
. Seems like every fluid that goes in a 996 takes hours to maybe figure out the right one, and in this case possibly Porsche changed their spec for '02 Tiptronic differential oil and the Bentley manual was not updated.
14mm hex on differential drain plug, 8mm hex on fill plug. Needed breaker bar to loosen. Removed fill port first to ensure could refill, no fluid came out upon opening so might have been low.
Looking up into drain port. There was sludge on drain plug so fluid was probably in service 19 years.
Hand pumped oil in. Torqued drain and fill plugs to 22 ft lbs as per Bentley manual. Job was easy, hardest part determining what weight oil to use.
When driving to work next week will see if new fluid lessened noise and vibration when going around turns with power applied.
Rough patch...Looks like you are turning your life around and hope you continue to get the help/support you need here.
What happened to the fender scratch by the fuel filler?
Removed hardtop for summer and improved storage system, now just drive vehicle in garage, unlatch top, run straps under stop, and lift. One person can easily do entire process.
Last year had installed winch and pulley to lift top snugly up to rafters. This year got new straps and ran them front to rear instead of side to side, this keeps weight off painted surfaces, provides better balance, and allows removal and installation of top by one person. Also this year built wood cross beam to keep straps spread the correct distance from each other, and transfer the load to the winch hook.
I'm the most blessed man on the planet.
First drive of spring with top down.
The battleship is too big I can't fit it all in the picture.
Garage door trolley thing broke and the arm fell onto the side of the Cayenne. It's been a TODO item to address for like 6 months but it's my wife's car and it's constantly dirty so wasn't a high priority. When she was out of town the other week I did a paint correction on it, which became immediately clear I should have paid someone. The hood alone took me as long as it'd take to do my entire 911.
Griot's synthetic clay bar for the DA was a lifesaver though. Worked really well and only took half an hour or so for the land yacht.
To answer you and cwbrown, I had it done at Fine Lines Wrap & Tint. Any wrap company should be able to do it in about 30 minutes. Cost was $50. I couldn't stand the blue/green tint imbedded in the top of the windshield.
Satin black vinyl banner with gloss black letters.
This last weekend I hung something my wife ordered for my home office.
Cool wooden Porsche crest from Etsy to accompany my carbon fiber/wood N�rburgring track she also bought for me a few years ago.
It's huge!
28" (715mm) tall.
Thanks for the compliment, and it's the battleship Iowa in San Pedro CA. Looks like it is still closed to the public so we were able to pull up right next to it. When I was in the Navy the Iowa was in Norfolk Virginia, and I was assigned to go on it and pick up some radar equipment. It was a hell of a warship all kinds of guns and missiles and thick armor.
Very nice! I just bought a CNC machine and may try to make one of those, but a bit smaller. My machine can handle about 15" by 15", more if you do it in stages. Here's my first few attempts with acrylic.
I try to only apply patience under a select few circumstances.
Waiting on car parts 100% NOT one of them.
So I am in TOTAL approval of your impatience in this instance !
After differential oil change now diving into a turn sharper than normal and punching the gas can barely induce that sound and vibration. Gonna call that fixed for now and in the future when dropping the engine will take a look at replacing differential roller bearings or maybe the gears which apparently were not getting sufficient lubrication from the old fluid.
1. Changed the ignition switch. Nine years of sticking and fiddling. Nine hours of searching the forum on how-to. Nine minutes to replace.
2. Fixed my cruise control. Nine years inoperable. Nine years of right leg cramps on highway runs. Nine hours searching forum how-tos. Nine seconds to adjust switch / plunger under dash and make operable.
3. Completed new double DIN stereo install. Eight and a half years listening to wearisome CD�s through (as it turned out) ripped and decayed speakers. Nine hours researching various components to buy. Nine hours searching forum how-tos. Nine hours to mostly install new system last year. Nine minutes to take rear speakers off back seats and place in vacated rear speaker openings.
4. Took car off jacks. Put on tires. Pushed out of garage. Started (Yay! With new ignition switch) after six months. Drove for nine minutes without insurance, current license plate or motor vehicle inspection sticker. Everything worked. Didn�t blow an IMS. Didn�t blow an AOS. Bore scoring didn�t blow up my engine. Stereo was crisp and clear. New switch didn�t catch on fire. Cruise worked just like the book said it would.
Guess I will renew everything for another wonderful spring, summer and fall, but that�s.......... tomorrow�s job.
It's the rule of nines. Please add "9.96 seconds to 100 mph"; value of car 9.6 years from now: $99,996; people who now love the headlights: 96.99%; change IMSB every 99,600 miles.
Love the DSKY.
The Apollo Guidance Computer was built in my Hometown of Sudbury, MA at the Raytheon plant there...I was still a ways away from coming on to this earth, but have always been proud of the contribution my little town had in what is in my opinion, one of the greatest accomplishments of man kind.
I have an autographed photo of Alan Bean on the moon that I bought at an auction from the Cradle of Aviation museum last year. I didn't know much about Apollo 12 or the DSKY at the time, After doing some research it was an amazing flight and the DSKY is so cool. Here is a 3D printed version I did. It shows the display as they touched down on the moon.
Very cool... After Neil Armstrong - John Young was my favorite Apollo Astronaut, soft spoken but supremely confident and intelligent.
Those guys - All of them, American Bad Asses.
If you have some time to kill and want to get into the nitty gritty on the ACG...
You Tube
You Tube
Apollo 12 was struck by lightning twice as it was taking off and all of the circuits shut down. Quick thinking by the ground crew saved them. After Apollo 11, everyone kind of lost interest in the space program. Alan Bean spent the rest of his life as an artist, painting moonscapes.
Oh yeah, and to keep this thread on track, I installed a new coolant tank and upgraded my UAOS to the billet aluminum version.
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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/600x450/20190953_78_600_450_5249380153a7ad987f521327449bcf414e51c153.jpg
Steven Wright is great! "I'm not afraid of lengths, just widths." "I was born via C-section. It hasn't affected me much, but I do leave through the window." As he is interviewing for a job, "Let me ask you one question. When you are driving at the speed of light and turn on the headlights, what happens?" "You don't know? I don't want the job."
And now for a 996.2 moment. My car is sitting in my garage less an engine and transmission. I did take the opportunity to replace the coolant tank (with a real Porsche tank) and motor mounts. Transmission has been at the shop for 4 weeks now, a few promise dates, but no word yet on what it needs.
My car has a tiptronic. it developed a leak between the rear case halves (near where the output shaft would be if it was a C4, but in the main case area) shortly after having the fluid and filter changed. Late last fall it started to slip under power. The transmission has to come apart to fix the leak so while in there the shop will change the conductor plate, wire harness (two known fault areas of the 722.6 tranny), and check for burned clutch plates and whatever else is going on in there.
Sounds like a big job, hopefully it gets done sooner than later so you can enjoy the car. My transmission is a manual and I have a grinding noise of sorts that I believe is the pinion bearding. Fortunately it doesn�t need to be done immediately, but will need to addressed in the future.
Not good (devilish mileage). Drove the car today. I have a scrubbing sound coming from my driver side rear wheel. I hope it�s just brakes and not a half shaft or wheel bearing.
More like what I'm about to do in about 600 miles. This will be my 3rd oil change with DT and first UOA so looking forward to getting a baseline. 1st change lasted about 2000 miles due to IMS job and the second one is inching to 5000 miles since November so right on schedule.
Also, stud conversion kit from Rennline should be arriving today!
Took a 100 mile round trip to pick up some wine...
Great fun, but now both sides of my convertible top side beads aren't aligning when I close it. Bah.
Being a former airline pilot, the Apollo missions are one of those sacred things. The Right Stuff, being one of my favorite movies. I was sitting on my mothers lap when they landed on the moon the first time.
I've taken care of a few small items over the past few weeks:
Installed a new cabin air filter. I'm surprised to find these are just open by default.
Replaced my hood struts. After doing the full rear hatch strut replacement on a 957 Cayenne, any strut replacement is easy in comparison.
Replaced my broken screen in the HVAC control unit with
one from 914 Rubber
. It took about 45 minutes and is as good as new afterwards.
Replaced the wiper blades with factory blades from Pelican.
Replaced the cassette holder with another storage shelf. The Porsche Tax was real on that one - $73 for a plastic storage shelf with a rubber mat inside.
Put on some Porsche logo valve caps. They're plastic, and I've had them on my Panamera and Cayenne. I'd like to find some nice aluminum ones for the 996, if anyone knows of any.
Replaced my center caps with aftermarket
ones from Oleg
. Unless you really want to spend $$$ for the OEM ones, I recommend going this route. My hollow turbo twists were powdercoated at some point by a previous owner, and the color matches very well.
I finally got around to fixing the center aluminum support that sits in the vents in my taco wing. It wasn't seating in the notches on the sides properly and was vibrating loudly, so I found the tech bulletin for the 996 Aerokit install, which said to bend the support if it didn't fit properly. I had to remove the rear fan assembly to get to the support, carefully remove the support from the wing, bend it, and then reinstall. My car's not an XAA, but has had the Aerokit on from early in its life, and those Aerokit install instructions are no joke based on the time that Porsche quotes. Whoever wanted the full kit installed
really
wanted it.
First drive in the bucket seats. Seating position is great with the BK side mounts. Would probably need to go floor mount though to wear a helmet. Buckets are tight, but a little extra motivation to shed my pandemic weight gain. I'm an athletic 6'4", 35" waist, and currently hovering around 250 lbs. Goal is to get back down to ~225. On the topic of weight loss, car is about 60 lbs lighter now!
Nrp3: It's going great - NOT. Shop has had the tranny for 4 weeks now and has not started it yet.
On the plus side it gave PT3 time to build and ship my U-AOS. It arrived today and it looks awesome! The install should go quite well considering the engine is sitting on the floor while waiting for the transmission.
Good luck, is a local shop doing the work? I had my local indy pull my MT to ship to CMS for rebuild. I had a bad bearing whine. It is back in now and they installed the UAOS along with a bunch of other crap while it was there. It was their first UAOS install but it seemed to go well. They had it from September last year until a few weeks ago. Turn around for CMS was like 6 weeks once they got it. That was fine with me since it was winter and I just drove my truck or 914 on nicer days :-)
Nice! Believe it or not they are very comfortable seats. An extra lumbar pad or two helps to form fit it to you. Made the drive from Chicago to Phila and back 2 years ago wasn't certain how it would feel with the GT3 seats. Ended up being comfortable as he'll.
Are you going to put in a roll bar?
I had one shop remove the engine and tranny. Engine is at the shop. A local (to me) transmission shop has the tranny. The car is at my house. The shop will let me install the U-AOS while the engine is sitting there. My friend's trailer is sitting in my driveway waiting to take the car back to the shop when the tranny is ready.
It's funny. The wheel clearance to rear quarter is huge because there is no weight back there. It made the car quite easy to push around the garage.
Holding off on any roll bar or cage for now. Probably be some changes when my daughter graduates to a forward facing car seat. Currently the 4Runner does dog and daycare duty. But if I pull the passenger seat, build a low platform for the dog, add a roof rack, and put a car seat in the rear, I think the Porsche has it all handled.
I originally ordered the suggested 45mm bullet nose ones from Rennline but they seem to be discontinued because they shipped these. My wheel fitment is perfect so I won't be running spacers so technically I should have gone 35mm. I kind of like the look so we will see. Worst case I'll sell these and get the shorter ones. These would be perfect if running spacers.
Thanks guy! I mostly got them for function as I find myself taking the wheels off more than I thought so these make that process MUCH easier. Studs > Bolts any day.
Germans and their wheel bolts... I would like the studs but not enough to spend the money.
Lots o cars from the motherland in my wrenching authority so a wheel hanger works well for all of them and cost me $10 off Amazon.
No doubt about it though, your setup looks dope and functional.
Yes
The issue i had with the wheel hanger was the ones i have r too short for the rear wheels. I cant get my fingers on them to spin them out on the sport technos. I guess i could have found longer pjns but studs seemed like a better solution.
Dude it is on like donkey Kong !!!
I�ll post video at midnight. Be there, come alone.
start with wheel off and.... Go. It�s like an old western duel, except neither of us are in the west, and instead of guns.... it�s ahhh wheels... but you know what I�m saying 🙂
I much prefer my studs over the factory bolts.
That was my first mod.
I've run them on my 996, the BMW135I I had before it, and all the watercooled VWs I used to own & race.
I run 56mm in front and 70mm in back.
No worries Joe...Maybe the next time you're going to drop the hammer down on some newb for a dumb *** question - you'll grant them a reprieve...Just make sure to let them know they were spared because I did a good deed
BTW... Just once, then you can go back to playing wack a mole with the newbs
Well im a video on the internet idiot so as soon as i figure out how to upload ill have my part of the challange.
https://youtube.com/shorts/IsiGf6qFI10?feature=share
https://youtu.be/IsiGf6qFI10
Time for some fun upgrades: over last couple of weekends. Camera phone does not do the green justice. Will have to break out the nice camera and shoot some final pics.
*Painted calipers: G2 Caliper paint (this stuff is great and durable)
*Das Sport roll bar
*New pedals and dash trim piece
*Painted a spare console
*Paracord wrap p brake handle for now till I figure out what I want
*New SickSpeed seats and 4 pt harness
*New floor mats
I hear u, its not that expensive if u use the rennline kit. The tarret or msi stuff is a little pricey.
I pulled the tires on and off 3 times last night to check clearences on the new to me nt-01s so the expense was worth it for a much easier evenng.
I can just see now the barrel of **** I�m going to get from you guys if I ever put studs on the car...
If I do it, I�m not telling a soul and will intentionally hide any photographic evidence...
BTW... The MSI is the only way to go for good reliability on them from people I trust... snapping the studs is something that has been reported on some brands..
At least hypothetically, if I was going to put studs on, which I�m not... cause I can�t be wrong
I would go with MSI.
You guys are cracking me up.
I will say, hanger vs studs, seems about the same or similar time to change. I have titanium bolts, and no hanger, and probably takes me double the time to swap the wheels.
Before I went to Renline studs, I used two hanger bolt, one from tool kit and another I made at least a inch longer than the tool kit hanger, made it way easier to install the wheel onto one first and then find the second hanger. highly recommend the studs kit from Renline.
fabbed the hanger from a 14mm 1.5 thread metric bolt, cut off the hex head and rounded it off. ACE or Home Depot carry the bolts.
One of my very first purchases for the car was two hanger bolts. One was tough.
Amazon
Amazon
I like the DIY bolt idea. Certainly cheaper. I'd wrap most of the threads in electrical tape to protect the wheel.
Half what did to and half what did for. Closed on a house in Charleston area then hit big red with clay. Buff and polish to get rid of swirls next. The ridiculous blue walls are not far behind.
I installed a new head unit and speakers right before I put the car in storage last winter and didn�t have a chance to really set it up or test it. This spring I found that the right front speaker had a nasty crackle. Dang. So working backwards I pulled that speaker and the spade connectors were on good and tight and the Metra pigtail was attached properly to the factor speaker wiring harness. Hmmm. But between the harness and where the speaker wires disappear into the dash it looked like the foam insulation had degraded quite a bit and was nasty and sticky. I could see copper. So I wrapped it all in electrical tape as far down as I could. Result? Crackle GONE. 😀
I finally did something to be able to play this game...
Pretty sure something was spilled on the passenger seat (not by me) that made it cardboard stiff, and in the New Orleans heat it finally cracked open.
So I scored a decent-shape seat from ebay and performed a seat-o-plasty!
I replaced this:
With this:
And, like everyone's, my driver bolster was worn, so I swapped the old/outgoing passenger backrest skin and foam cushion to the driver seat:
It was my first time, but it was a whole lot easier than taking apart the seat (which I tested with the old outgoing seat). None of the guides I found online were
exactly
right regarding the bolts mounting the backrest to the frame.
For the skin to come off, I just had to remove the plastic tilt lever trim(s), then unclip the leather at the bottom/back of the backrest, which you pop out with leverage.
For the foam, it's not glued on, it comes apart from the backrest plastic mold pretty easily.
All in all, took about 10 minutes!
Swapped out my stock 74mm throttle body with a Soler 74-78mm TB. Warmed up the motor and did a 30 minute, 20 mile drive for adaption. Ran nicely through RPM range to 7k and all is good. Drove back to the house and left the engine running while I jumped out to grab something out of my garage. The motor just quit. No warning. Just quit. Never happened before. Fired it back up and seemed to just be an anomaly. Fast forward 2 hours and I’m on the way to the airport. As I’m commanding 1/2 gas on first sharp acceleration command while merging onto a main artery road the car s just a slug. No oomph and the torque is gone. I couldn’t get the engine to rev past 5k RPM with full throttle. No CEL. Same symptoms with a/c on or off. VarioCam is working when it’s supposed to. Shoot! I’ll be able to trouble shoot more Saturday. I’ll run Durametric and probably disco the battery and reset the ECU. If I have any more issues I’ll throw the original TB on a go from there.
My initial thought is butterfly on the Soler not opening enough. Last thing touched stuff all checked, so temporarily at a loss. I’ll follow up soon.
New motor mounts (looked like the original mounts...car rides so much better now. Also bolted on the 'amazon' Fabspeed super cup exhaust. Holy hell is it lout BUT IT IS AMAZING. Immediately took the car up Emmigration Canyon just outside of SLC, Utah. Just amazing. Highly recommend. But yeah...its loud.
The original paint of my 2/98 coupe has been treated with 303 products graphene coating, I liked it so much I did my 2019 F 150 and my wife�s amg. Anyway, it�s not cheap but I loved the results. Now I am going to test durability, they claim 1 year, I don�t know, let�s see how long it last on this Texas weather. I used to work selling and formulating these kind of products for professional detailers and car dealers at a commercial level. I�m really impress with this product specially when someone quoted $800 for a ceramic coat, 5 year warranty with a once a year reapplication. My 996 had taken me back to all the stuff I used to do with my cars when I was in my thirties, I just turned 53 and it is like a new hobby obsession for me.
This stuff works on glass
and wheels.
Finished the new/used exhaust install. Used mufflers, new SOUL sport cats, new plugs and coil packs. Lots if rusty hardware fought, a few broken bolts and studs dealt with. A few beers and lots of Oh S^&t moments. Exhaust has a bit more growl to it. Pleased so far.
Will do. I was getting a code on one of the original cats so that started this journey. Taking a longer drive today after a test ride yesterday. So far I like the sound. Adds just a bit of growl with the stock mufflers. Fit and finish were/are excellent. My car was originally from Chicago so the exhaust hardware was toast. I had to source used supports, used mufflers and a bunch of new hardware. Getting the Cats fit to the mufflers was thankfully pretty easy. My original mufflers are rusting at the seam. I may play around with them and see if I can do the Gundo hack and weld the seams up, then swap them in at some point.
'99 c2 cab
Yesterday
Put back in rebuilt hydraulic top cylinders
Cleaned out interior drain exit ports in wheel well
replaced drivers side power mirror. New 3 prong electric connector didn't match 8 prong original so removed old power board and soldered to new and modified so it fit perfectly
Friday:
Brake fluid level sensor's wires had been chewed by a mouse when PO left it outside. Cut, added extension piece, soldered and shrink wrapped
Putting in rebuilt hydraulics went very quickly
This one 100% blocked. Other was 90%. Hosing out from outside cleaned them out
At least the mouse only chewed this one wire
Nice car. I can't help thinking how much it would change to restore the headlights to their intended glory. Just me but they will make a TON of difference. Your friends should tell you but they don't want to be impolite. Feel free to ignore me and my inappropriate social inadequacy. In the meantime the 303 looks like it's going great. Was application easy?
Obtained two M96 engines to play with.
Weighed one with all accessories but no exhaust. Both scales added together read 449, raised engine and second reading 448 for 448.5lbs average. Repositioned scales and read 401, 398, 402, and 396, for 399.25lbs. Not sure why such a big discrepancy between readings, but surprised it is this heavy thought Porsche engine unit would weigh around 350lbs.
Hey Zbomb, after fighting with it using everything I could find to try to pound it out, I ended spraying a ton of WD40 using the little red straw attachment. I just poked it all around the grommet between it and the little tunnel part of the car. I hit the grommet again and it shot out like nothing, wasted a couple hours up until that happened. Couldn't believe my luck, thought I was going to have to cut it in half somehow. Good Luck.
I tried to post yesterday but here we go. I've had car about a month and it was not maintained by PO at all. He let it sit in driveway and decay. First thing I did was have IMS and RMS replaced. Had new flywheel and clutch already. IMS bearing was in process of failing when replaced. Mechanically she is about back up to speed now. New paint in a few weeks. Over the weekend I:
Put back in hydraulic conv top cylinders and got top working again
Fixed interior drain routing. One of the corrugated drain pipes was routed to drain behind rear seat
Cleaned out interior drain exits behind mud guard in wheel wells
Recharged AC system to 45 psi (90 degree day) and added ND 8 oil. Blowing cold now
Replaced drivers side mirror motor. OEM part is not direct fit with old 1999 8 pin connector so removed old electrical board in old motor and modified/soldered it to new motor. Added a bit of hot glue and trimmed and fit right up
Added new gas cap with retaining strap
New plastic bits to mount drivers side trim that has mirror controller
New air filter and cabin filter
Fixed brake fluid sensor wire. Mice had chewed mostly through it. Soldered in extension and heat shrinked everything
Last week:
Replaced center console hinge
Put in water proof box for security immobilizer
Led lights for interior lighting
To Do: Replace oil sending unit. It goes to 5 and mostly stays there once engine is started. Seems to be a common problem. Conv. top plastic piece on latch that triggers microswitch cracked/broke so will be replacing that. Repaint car and reupholster door panels. Has the full leather interior though which is nice.
100% clogged interior drain exit. Other was 90%. Hosing it from outside cleared it
Mice nest from PO leaving car out. They chewed the brake fluid level sensor line
Reinstalling rebuilt hydraulic cylinders
Paint is pretty rough from UV exposure from sitting in driveway for years
Changed the spark plugs. Did a bit of reading beforehand and saw the debate about removing the exhaust first. I did not remove it and I didn't really come across any situation where it would have been helpful. Only had evidence of a leak from one tube (middle one), so I replaced that using a socket that was slightly smaller and wrapped a piece of sandpaper around it - gave it a little twist by hand and out it came.
Your door handle looks fantastic. What did you use - how did you do it. I just purchased a "pilot" black plastic shift boot ring and I want to paint it the same color as your door ****.
Thanks for your help.
Ron
$190 for 20 OEM lug bolts from Suncoast.
I was just really surprised how beat up brand new factory ones looked.
Could have bought an aftermarket titanium set for about the same price but I prefer the OEM look
only front spoiler. Car has been lowered so it�s pretty close to the ground as it is. I got to be careful when I go up my driveway. Anyway I saw a car with side skirts and I wasn�t impressed by it. Probably they also cost an arm and a leg. Money is not an issue but again this is unbelievable, this car has almost $7,000 worth of upgrades, all the maintenance including plugs and coils were done a little less than 7,000 miles ago, with all fluid flushes. All the brake lines are new, ac hoses are new, new brake pads and rotors and less than 30,000 miles on clutch, IMs, rms. I�m never going to find another like this. 5 and half months ago I got it for $18,000 cash, no wrecks, original paint. Also dealer paid me $500 to drive it home almost 1300 miles.
The muffler tips on my 996 2004 CS2 are under the bumper. The passenger side has melted and cracked the bumper a bit. I need to extend the muffler tips to be even with the bumper, and need to point the tips downward.
I just took my 996 out for a lunchtime ride, of course a bird dropped some "waste" on my windshield, I hit the wash and turned on my windshield wipers and when I turned them off they continued to run! Any ideas? Thanks.
Did you try moving the stalk to different positions? Maybe the whole stalk switch broke inside. Hope you figure it out. Turning off the car will make the wipers stop, but you will have the same problem when you start up again.
I took mine on a long early morning commute, the first in over a year.
I had to visit a data center on the other side of town and wanted to get there and back before the predicted thunderstorms got here.
I almost made it.
My car is finally dust free...and has some road dirt on it for the first time in quite a while.
It was a very fun drive.
I did have some nut in an orange Dodge Charger try to get me to race him.
He finally weaved his way through traffic and left.
I was driving fast, but didn't want to race while weaving through traffic.
Ya, I get the guys in the Dodge diesel trucks with 6 inch exhaust trying to "roll coal" on me or the guys with Mustangs trying to race me. Yes it's better to just ignore them.
Took out the battery tray, cleaned it within an inch of its life, and lightly sprayed some bed liner on it. Cleaned up all the mounting hardware and clear coated them, and then placed the new battery in along with the battery tender.
lol. I sort of resemble this stereotype. Except with a Raptor 6.2l. I�ll play/push a little when I come across my brethren. Amazing truck. Sounds better and has been called the Gt3 of trucks back in it�s day...
Ok, I guess I also sort of resemble this..... Pickups aren't "trucks" anymore; they are SUVs with an open back. They're just pickups (not trucks). {now ducking down as the wrenches come flying in my general direction}.
I have a regular 2019 super crew stx with the 2.7 ecoboost. I feel sorry about all raptor owners for $40,000 the lightning will smoke all of them, I really like the fact on the lightning that you can use the front as a trunk and that you are going to be able to power your house with it. I�ll not get it right Away I want them to make sure they work up all the kinks, but sounds like a possibility in the future, specially if Uncle Sam provides a special electric vehicle incentive.
That’s an awesome truck. I’ve considered getting one but parking space is a bit hard to come by at my house until my oldest moves out and takes the Mustang with him.
By the time he moves out we’ll have to get a car for my youngest.
I think she needs a Raptor or a WRX, or a 944 or a...
I need to move some place with a HUGE garage so I can buy more toys.
I get the big super-trucks wanting to play on the NJ Turnpike all the time. Got the last laugh when one guy flew past me only to be pulled over by a State Trooper few miles ahead. Made sure to dropdown a few gears when I passed him being written up on the side of the road, didn't want him to think I forgot about him.
this 2011 is the
antithesis of the Lightning.
I haven�t even pulled my Targa out from under the covers yet. I�ve traveled all the local b roads for thousands of miles in the Porsche. Gravel roads and two tracks have piqued my interest and I am starting to explore with the Raptor. I am having as much fun tearing down a washed out dirt road at 80mph with ease, as I do hitting triple digits on tarmac in the Targa.
on topic:
just put full coverage back on for summer today.
thank you.
I specifically bought a supercab so it fits in my garage.😎
my daughter will be getting her license hopefully in 3 weeks. It was the impetus to getting another vehicle for me. She�ll get to drive the Volvo xc. But all 5�-0� of her has driven the raptor....
Ford officially announce the price at under $40. I bet most will likely be spec at $45. Anyway the pictures are from a 2021 Supercrew lariat. The big difference is that righ know both Ford and dealers are not offering any incentives. Ford finance has always offered an incentive if you finance with them, I have used it three times and have gotten as much as
$2,500 off the price, yes after a couple of payments I refinance at my credit union.
Funny. When I was younger (I am 70 this year) I used to devote hours a week to my various cars (TR250, MGB, '57 Chevy, 300ZX Turbo). My current Outback hadn't seen a wash rag in years! Just bought my first P ('00 996 C2) and wash it every time it's out and about. Not sure how to wax etc - everything has changed. But it's like going back in time.
There are a lot of easy wax products out there. The easiest would be a wax as you dry, basically after you rinse the car you spray a little bit of this product and as you dry it is wax. There are others that after you dry you spray apply to a light haze and then take off with a microfiber towel. Some of the turtle 🐢 wax ceramic are great, try the spray this will be easiest. Enjoy your new ride.
All the lightnings will be 4 wheel drives, all of them will be supercrew cabs. So add a mild package like STX and you�ll have a pretty cool truck. When I bought my last, this one when I went to the bathroom I was talking to another guy that was paying $61,000 for a sup up One (not raptor), so anyway I could have bought two like mine each at $28,500 and be under his total price. I�m in Texas and it is hot here I don�t know why anybody would want sunroof, navigation, leather, the little window on the rear glass, electric power seats, running boards that come out etc. Is the same truck, same interior space, also
since it is a higher trim your full Cover insurance is going to be more expensive. Complete disclosure I�m a Ford stockholder.
I've use beadmaker and it's not a bad product. You need to use a bit more of it to get the base coat going first. The one bad thing I've noticed is that it just doesn't last very long, which may be an issue if you plan to use it as a protectant. It works super well as a drying aid, though. It also seems to attract dust a bit more than other products I tried. My choice for easy to apply and decently long lasting solutions goes to Turtle Wax Seal & Shine. That stuff rocks, lasts much longer and actually has very good chemical resistance. Plus is you can pick it up at most stores for about $12.
I second the Turtle Wax Seal & Shine, check out the videos on YouTube and it's a clear winner over much more expensive products. This is just one of the many glowing reviews.
You Tube
That's the video I was thinking of. Unless you're going to spring for a proper ceramic coating, this is a clear winner given the cost/benefit. It's cheap enough to the point where I just use it as a drying agent. Talk about protection on top of protection
Narrowly avoided some damage from falling tree branches�. I�ve been parking the 996 on the street adjacent to our driveway. I keep catching flak from people for it �put that thing in the driveway! It�s too nice to park on the street, what if it gets sideswiped?!?!� Well, last night during a storm, our 200yr old oak tree decided to drop some branches on the wife�s 2019 GTI, damaging the roof/door/hood. 996 is safe! I�ve always said I worry more about the tree than someone hitting it parked next to the driveway, and I feel validated for now!
I guess this is what Saturdays are for. Oddly I've been driving it a lot, so not sure how long they've been in there.
If anyone has an idea how mice can get in, please let me know. I am assuming it is not from the cowl vents since they'd have to climb up the car body.
They can get in in any number of ways, there�s pretty much zero way to prevent it if they want in. A mouse can push through weatherstripping, climb up through panel gaps, etc. They basically teleport to anywhere they damned well please!
Mine had the mouse nest behind the compressor. I fished And vacuumed it out. Whether it was there when I bought the car last summer or happened over this winter, not sure. Dryer sheets, mothballs, more frequent visits from your pest control company are all possibilities.
I saw your post as I was looking at my soon to be installed 997 GT3 Shifter and had to look closely to see the differences.
Even zoomed in on the part number they looked so similar. Closer inspection shows so metal vs plastic.
After getting .25 cents per gallons off on my shell v power, beer run special two cases of Miller lite at $17.97, 12 pack IPAs at
$13.89 , 4 bottles of cheap wine, total $67, on top of all that crap Amex believes I�m buying groceries so another 6 percent cash back life is good.
The frunk is good for beer 🍺 runs on my 996.1.
For just the the second time in 45 months, I�m 996-less...at home.
It got dropped off at the body shop this morning to match the paint on my new wing/deck.
Then they asked me to leave it so when they paint tomorrow morning they can confirm they got the correct shade of seal grey.
Kind of weird to not be able to look at it in the garage.
can�t tell how bad your paint was, but when they did my M635CSI it was a $5,000 job, off course you could tell the difference between that and a Mayco paint job, sometimes you get what you pay for.
My paint is in great shape, I’m just having my new(used) GT3 deck painted seal grey.
I’m leaving the GT3RS wing bare carbon fiber.
This is the same shop that painted my taco spoiler(7/2018), side skirts(12/2018) and repainted my headlight covers to match closer.(2019)
They do a great job of paint matching, and didn’t want to just use the formula they used for the taco spoiler in 2018 like I’d suggested.
”Close enough is not good enough.”
I was the bringer of stout and ipa to a gathering on Monday. Frunk carried the beer and some dessert as well. Nice to get out and see people again (all vaccinated at this point) without masks.
Tell me about it!! I used Adam�s Towing in SLC, recommended by Morris Brothers Motorsports as the only company around they trust to tow P-cars. I was very impressed.
also if I refer you you get $150 credit. I�m going to warn you, Amex is the toughest credit card to get full disclosure my credit score is 821. You can pm me and send me your email I�ll refer you so you get the special offer. I can only recommend 5 people per year, I already got two this year. Also this card gives you 3 percent in gas stations and multiple offers that rotate all the time. Plus they just offered me 12 months free interest on purchases, anyway I use credit cards because I make money with them, if anybody says 10 percent discount for cash I pay cash.
Almost no visual difference, but mine had zero tint and before the TX summer sun and heat demolishes the interior got it tinted with Xpel XR 70% all around. Just prefer a clear greenhouse.
SA (and Houston) adds humidity to the mix and it's been a wetter May than normal and it just feels oppressive rn. Was able to get by w/o tinting most of my other cars but they've been hatchbacks or wagons. The rear glass on a coupe lets in a lot of sun!
This morning coffee from Panera in my specially made bag since I don�t have cup holders and using kolache factory coupon buy 3 get 3. Anyway twice in the outing triple digits. It�s sitting till next Saturday. Previous weekly run was beer 🍺. Life is good, smoking brisket, beef short ribs, beef shanks and sausage, I guess I should run a BBQ joint.
Headlight washer delete. I removed the washers, plugged the hose with 3/8” aluminum rod cut to about 2” and replaced the hose clamps with new. Swapped out the corner lenses with factory no hole replacements and done. Looks way better than the useless headlight washers that were there.
Is that updated hose applicable to the 3.4L engines? I see the updated hose and connection PNs on the Auto Atlanta diagrams, but they're listed for 02 and up.
Uro has that hose. If u cant find it ill send u my slightly used one. To use the p-car updated one u have to change the outlet on the cassett and maybe the tube that goes over the motor
Thanks. Looks like the Genuine hoses are readily available. From the pics I've seen, the updated hose has the clip style connection on both ends which doesn't look like it would work without also replacing the feed pipe.
In other news...floor mounted the driver's bucket. Didn't realized all you normal sized people could actually see all the gauges this whole time. Still haven't decided what direction to go with the center console.
Got my first oil analysis back!!
It's actually the last three oil changes. Each about one year and 1600 miles. I had just stored the old oil, and now got around to sending all samples in at once.
Thankfully it looks good! I was nervous.
I'm confused about the Oxidation Value. They say a higher number is worse. My number is going up but is now green. Although, I have two different brands of oil, and one unknown brand, so maybe it's just brand dependent? But how do they determine the green/yellow indicator? I may post questions in one of the oil analysis threads.
Installed a Soler 78mm tb and gave it a pull, combined with new AP headers. The new header and 4mm throttle body diameter increase resulted in greater air flow of 12 g/s (corrected) or 4.3%. 3.8L with Softronics, Top Gear 200 cell, mild sport. For those who don�t want to do more math, the 78mm increased diameter by 5.2%.
Also put on the Spacer Shop steering wheel spacer. Love it! Over two more inches extra clearance. Install video spot on. I�ve never removed a steering wheel air bag until yesterday and the tips on RL also helped. Took 60 minutes from battery disco. Only drawback for the spacer/extender is the control stalks are pretty far away from the fingers. Smaller hands may not do well. My wife and I don�t have the wheel sitting directly over the knees any more.
Not associated with any vendor or seller.
Installed my locally Fistered mufflers today. They did a good job. Dropped them off yesterday afternoon and picked them up late this afternoon. I dig the exhaust note, as everyone does...and NO drone.
The bonus this past weekend while removing them was that NO hardware was seized. The muffler clamps were a little crusty, but I soaked them for a few days, then brushed them up with the Dremel wire wheel and they broke loose nicely.
All in all a nice little project.
Do you feel any driving difference from the slightly wider stance?
I wonder why the factory didn't space the wheels out more since there are apparently no clearance issues.
I won't be able to give an opinion on this one!!!! I've only driven my 996 from the delivery flatbed into the garage (roughly 400 feet) before removing and rebuilding the engine. I've driven a few other 996's but they've all had suspension work so I won't really have a comparison. This one isn't road legal just yet. Hopefully I can get my license plate tomorrow.
Cleaned up my original headlights, taillights and side markers.
Wasn�t a fan of the original look when I bought the car but something has changed.
I�m thinking about putting them back on and going �full amber�.
Do it!!!
I never understood the silver side marker thing. I know people have been permabanned from RL for disparaging silver side markers, but I will not be silenced
.
Picked up my car from the indy after having a very small coolant leak fixed that I just couldn't find on my own. He said they just tightened all of the clamps. On the way home I passed a Rolls Royce SUV. At first I thought someone had just added a custom grille to a regular SUV but I Googled it when I got home. It's a thing... a $350k+ thing.
My original 22 year old 'amber' turn signal bulbs were showing their age so I replaced them.
The only replacements I had in stock were LED and noticeably brighter. LED is on the right.
LED on the right obviously but not as glaringly bright as it looks in this pic.
Here's a small one. Was looking for a silicon key cover/protector but could only find a hard plastic one on ebay. It's the only one I could find for the "one-button" remote. Was pleasantly surprised at the fit, quality and shows the Porsche crest. $20 shipped and comes in a few colors (except black so I got the CF).
Ebay seller: "pakcee" (not my ebay store)
Found out that replacement parking brake pads need some filing before installing. Oh and that FCPEuro sent me the wrong front pads after I had already installed the R front disc. But at least 3 of 4 brakes have the wear sensors cut and soldered so that�s done...
Textar - part of a full replacement kit
Cut the brake sensor wires a couple inches from the connector and solder together. Eliminates the connection to the pads, so you need to make sure that you are on top of the wear. I also reused the old anti-squeal inserts without the adhesive so that I can change pads without removing the caliper.
Finally got my new rear deck with GT3RS wing back from the body shop.
They painted it 3 times because the owner didn’t like the first two attempts.
He’s a multi-Porsche owner.
“Solvent pops aren’t allowed on Porsches!”
Small but potentially important mod here. I replaced my license plate lights. I have driven the car after dark probably 3 times total. It's a cabriolet and usually reserved for nice sunny days. Was out on a date night with the wife and she was getting the mail at the end of the driveway while I pulled it into the garage. She said "you know you can't read your license plate AT ALL right?"
I bought the car last July and checked all tail lights, brake lights, reverse lights, etc - but never realized that some asshat put BLUE LED's in the license plate lights. On top of my smoked license plate cover you literally couldn't make out a single letter 10 feet away! Swapped out with some standard bulbs and checked it last night in the dark. The smoked cover is no problem anymore - you can read every letter from a good safe distance. I don't need to give the local LEO's a mechanical probable cause to pull me over, my foot should be the only thing I need to be concerned about!
Thanks!
My wife prefers the Taco spoiler, or so she said before I bought the new one.
They're so easy to swap out that I might just keep the Taco spoiler and swap it out from time to time like my headlights.
The MAShaw Taco spoiler is definitely better quality underneath deck-wise.
But the carbon fiber wing is excellent, except for a slight bit of clearcoat damage caused by UPS.
The new deck and wing are lighter than the Taco spoiler, which was a little lighter than the factory speed activated spoiler.
I got a ticket in my 997 once because I had a lightly smoked license plate cover. Cop told me they are illegal. I never knew that or bothered to look into it. I feel there was another reason why he pulled me over, but I won�t get into that here. Just saying I don�t think you are in the clear just because it�s visible. Maybe you should double check your local laws to be sure.
In Texas you can get a ticket for clear license plate covers.
The law is there can be nothing covering the license plate.
Usually you won't be pulled over and ticketed for just this, but you can.
Just like lots of Porsches driving around Texas without a front license plate...just waiting to get a ticket.
Some people never get one and some people get 2+ per year.
I run a front plate using the Rennline tow hook mount because I'd get pulled over when I REALLY needed to be somewhere on time.
Between you and Chunks, I am getting all kind of aero ideas for my seal grey 996. After 19 years, I am finally getting close to making a decision. The good news is that the 996 is aging well with looks. A few period specific aero changes and it looks very modern. Keep posting the picture collection. Love it.
Fantastic! If I read correctly, you are in que for an FSI rebuild. Which one are you getting? Have you been suffering from bore scoring or is it just an elective enhancement?
I'm getting the Track Performer II build with all the options. (4.0l with race-level balancing, upgraded pistons, & custom tuning)
Mine is an elective build.
I used to rebuild race motors and have taken the Knowledge Gruppe's online rebuild class, followed by buying all the necessary tools and Jake's DVD series.
I also bought a Boxster 2.7l motor to practice rebuilding an M96.
I've disassembled and reassembled several times now. (without first having the block Nickied or replacing gaskets or bearings, or doing any significant cleaning)
I know I could rebuild my engine myself.
My plan was to retire in 3 years and then rebuild my engine as a 4.0l.
I'd discussed this several times with my wife and one day when I was out in the garage setting camshaft timing on the Boxster motor, she said, "I'd rather you spend time with me once you retire, and not hundreds of hours rebuilding your engine...can't you just pay someone to do it instead?"
I told her I'd want Jake to do it because he could get even more power out of it, but that he is likely a lot more expensive than other places.(That was a wrong assumption)
We're Facebook friends with Jake, so she said, "He's the one with the little girl that rebuilds engines, right? She's cute."
I figured her knowing Jake and his daughter was a good sign.
So in late 2020, I opened a ticket at Flat6Innovations and checked on the prices.
I got into the December 2020 webinar.
I was amazed that they didn't charge more for their builds.
FSI's prices are extremely reasonable for the amount of work that's involved when you pay attention to all the details like they do. (You can see the detail that Jake goes to in his DVD series)
I know that I could get a rebuild cheaper, but it would not be to the level of detail I'd expect.
I decided that I wanted FSI to build my M96 into a 4.0 monster with lots of lower end torque.
I asked for the latest available build slot for 2022, which now I regret.
I work on a budget and figured it would take a while to be able to budget for the rebuild.
My finances changed during April 2021 and now I have the full costs covered...so now I'm just waiting.
My car will ship to them in July 2022 and will be completed by November 30th.
When it comes back, I'll be 1.5 years from my retirement target.
Hopefully by the time I retire the engine will be broken in and I'll be able to drive it like I stole it.
I'll be the old guy with a huge grin on my face.
When I'm not driving, I'll be spending time with my wife like she wants.
An expensive go cart wheelchair LOL enjoy retirement turn that grey hair dark again!!!
Make sure you hit 77 mph so the fluxcapitor turns back time every day
Mike
Great story! Good to see your wife is onboard. A Top quality rebuild makes all the sense in the world, especially if you are going to keep the car far in the future. I will be doing the same over the next few years. Engine is in very good shape. Project now is to identify whats new or already been built but not readily available regarding oil cooling and oil pressure/starvation bolt-ons, to keep it that way until it's time to do an elective rebuild in the next couple of years. It's more fun than any 56 year is allowed to have.
This is a little bit different, but in NJ I see a lot of cars that have sprayed what I assume is "Photo Blocker" spray on the license -- the plate looks fine in normal light, but the numbers/letters are obscured by the flash on speed cameras or when you are behind them with the headlights on. You'd think they'd get pulled over like crazy because it's so obvious when you drive behind them at night, but I've never seen or heard of it happening.
Debating putting together a suspension and brake refresh on my car. It's a 2001 with 78k miles on it now. I assume everything is starting to get a little tired. This isn't going to be too cheap
Damn it looks good...
I set mine up years ago to look "stealth" from the outside but if you looked close at it, you will see the rollbar, GT3 seats, racing harness, big brake kit, exhaust, suspension etc. In essence, to attract very little attention with a grey car around town. It's a streetable track car without aero.
But, you, Chunks and Zbomb keep showing the aero eye candy. Waiting to see Chunks RPM Technik Duck Tail on his grey car. I may need to do the same as you and have 3 different lids depending on my objective for the week. Reading RL seems to facilitate spending money.
Cheers!
It's amazingly easy to swap out rear deck lids.
My son and I did it in 5 minutes.
I also pulled the left taillight just in case I needed to pull the emergency release cable. (I did! But a quick adjustment of the latch fixed it)
I have latches, seals, & fans for all 3 of my deck lids.
So it's just 4 screws and 2 electrical connectors.
Really no need to get spare fans unless you find them cheap on eBay.
Save some cash and then it's just 7 bolts.
You can also find used latches on eBay.
My car is not low key anymore.
But being grey it doesn't stand out like a lot of other colors.
California has the same law about covering the license plate with about the same enforcement.
At my last CPR refresher training, I sat next to a SDPD cop and we had a lot of time to chat. He said that in his 12 years on the force he's only written 7 tickets and he leaves the missing front plates, plate coverings and soccer moms talking on the phone to "motorcycle cops and the CHP".
None of my five cars have a front plate and two of them don't have the correct style plate for their year. My last plate ticket was in 2008 (and yes, it was a motorcycle cop) so it seems like the odds have been working in my favor. Now watch me get pulled over tomorrow...
Took a ride to the beach with the top down on a perfect day. Went for a long walk on the boardwalk to get some exercise and fresh air. Enjoyed a spirited ride home. Life is good.
Ohio Revised Code
A)(1) No person who is the owner or operator of a motor vehicle shall fail to display in plain view on the rear of the motor vehicle a license plate that displays the distinctive number and registration mark assigned to the motor vehicle by the director of public safety, including any county identification sticker and any validation sticker issued under sections
4503.19
and
4503.191
of the Revised Code, except that a commercial tractor shall display the license plate and validation sticker on the front of the commercial tractor.
(2) The license plate shall be securely fastened so as not to swing, and shall not be covered by any material that obstructs its visibility.
All of everyone's points are duly noted. I know I'm playing with fire a bit by having the cover but it's very lightly tinted. It just makes the bright white Ohio plate slightly gray. See my avatar - the cover is on in that pic. It takes being pretty darn close to realize it's there, whereas before with the blue lights you could see from ANY distance it was completely unreadable. It's not a necessity, it came on the car and I liked how it muted the only bright white thing on the car. I drive it around the Toledo suburbs. With what's on the roads next to me every day, this tinted cover is NOT what a cop is wasting their time on. I sat next to a clear cover on some beater the other day that had cracked and yellowed so much nothing was readable in clear daylight. To the "letter of the law" I have not covered it with any material that obstructs it's visibility. The other folks around here...different story.
In Ontario we have to have front and back, and we have to detail them
Number plate to be kept clean
(2) Every number plate shall be kept free from dirt and obstruction and shall be affixed so that the entire number plate, including the numbers, is plainly visible at all times, and the view of the number plate shall not be obscured or obstructed by spare tires, bumper bars, any part of the vehicle, any attachments to the vehicle or the load carried.
The next three section also discuss obstructing them with anything that prevents an accurate photograph or reading by a speed camera, red light camera, or toll camera.
I've seen that section above (reference to the "entire number plate") used to write tickets for a dealer frame. If there wasn't a separate section that made defacing or altering them a violation, I would "crop" my front to just the numbers.
I'll probably get flamed for this, but sharing anyway since I found it beneficial.
I routinely use Marvel Mystery Oil in vintage cars (4 oz per 10 gallons) in the fuel (highly recommended by very respected mechanics).
I rarely use it in newer cars, but since I was doing a DT-40 oil change on the 996.1, I decided to add MMO to the fuel and add a little less than a quart of MMO to the oil (I keep the oil level at half-way between marks per Jake's recommendation, so it had room for the MMO). Then I drove it for half-hour or so at elevated RPM's, before draining the oil and changing it. I have to say that, even though the engine was quiet and ran great before the MMO/oil change, it is even quieter and runs better after. I never noticed that on prior DT-40 oil changes. MMO is older than dirt, but never heard a negative thing about it and have had very positive experiences when I choose to use it.
I don't add MMO to oil for full-time use, but I am going to get in the habit of running a bit of it just before oil changes (at least on older and vintage cars).
Just got back from 2 week vacation in Merida Mexico, got pulled over twice by the police, first time I was at a red light and ambalance was behind with sirens and lights on, so I moved over on red light so he could go, my plan is always be dumb gringo and the SOB knew english, he told me it was elligal and I have to wait for green light and he needs to write me up, told him I could fund him in anoother way, he ok, brought out the money and he said hey don't show me money i'll reach in the car and grab it,LOL, next day in one smal town, all the town entrance and exit are guarded by police and pulled over again this time for no front plates, again played dunb gringo,and didnt understand a single word he said, LOL understood everything he said and handed him all the car rental paperwork and international driver license, he was getting a atitude and finally said get out here. So found out front are requireed in Mexico too..
Restored wheels using Wurth silver wheel paint and lacquer clear coat, and using QuickSteel putty to repair very deep scratches. The Wurth paint seems to be an exact match. I didn't want to touch the original paint so I only spot-painted the repaired sections and it was a perfect match.
BEFORE:
AFTER
: You really can't tell where it was repaired
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/750x1334/img_2645_48040c91d9fe59652fe08af124255e1fa7c945b7.png
I finally sold my 2000 C4 6MT Cab today.
I've been trying to sell it for months with only a few nibbles here and there. Ended up selling the car today to a guy who looked at it before but didn't buy it previously for a variety of reasons.
Not sure why it was so hard to get it sold. It was great car and all of the "issues" that it had when I bought it were fixed and it included many extras. I took the car to a shop selected by the buyer to do a non-invasive but still thorough PPI and the only "bad" thing that the mechanic could say about it was that it needed a new drive belt.
So, it was good a 996 as anyone could buy for the price I offered it at ($25k) which was lower than most other 996's offered w/similiar equipment and mileage. I took a little less than I was asking but I still got a good price for it which cover almost all of the costs that I paid to fix and upgrade it.
So, I'm happy.
While I have mixed feelings about selling it but I really don't regret it.
I own 3 other "sports cars," including a 2014 C7 Z51 Corvette Stingray, a 2008 Cobb tuned/M3 modified BMW 335i and a 2002 Toyota MR2 Spyder.
The 996 was the most costly in terms of maintenance/repair and the most worrisome" in terms of the possibility of engine killing defects. I didn't dwell on the vulnerabilities of the engine but they did kill the "joy" of owning the 996 a bit for me. The 996 was also NOT the most "fun" of these cars fo me to drive.
I simply enjoy driving the other cars much more.
So, I can now check the 911 off of my "bucket list." I will not be buying another but it was an enjoyable experience while it lasted.
Here's wishing you all many years/miles of fun and problem free driving to come in your 911s.
Ciao!
Thanks! It's the putty.
I cleaned the scratch areas thoroughly with 100% Isopropyl alcohol, as well the surrounding painted areas to remove all waxes and polishes (to prep for painting later).
The best way to use the putty is to cut off a thin slice, then knead it, and fix one area at a time because the putty sets up pretty quickly. It works best to make sure the putty is exactly even at the outside edges of the scratches (to minimize sanding where the wheel isn't damaged). The center can be a bit proud of the surface and then sanded to perfect the shape. The best timing is to apply it to the repair area as best you can when you first mix it, then wait a minute or two for it to set up a bit more and then really push it into the areas (if you don't let it set up for a couple minutes, it will tend to stick to your fingers when you are trying to shape it). Then, after 15 or 20 minutes (it cures in about an hour), sand it lightly (it doesn't take a lot of force). I used 150 and 220 after 15 minutes or so to shape it, then waited another 20 minutes or so to finish the surface with 320, 400, and 600.
The Blue Magic QuickSteel is perfect because it contains ground up aluminum and is sandable. JB Weld makes a similar looking product, but in my experience, JB weld is
extremely
difficult to sand. QuickSteel is easily sandable 20 minutes in -- I didn't try sanding it after it fully cured, but I suspect it's probably still sandable because it's more like aluminum than epoxy putty.
This is the stuff below. I bought it a while ago on Amazon, who no longer has it, but it looks like Autozone might stock it.
Yeah started at 10 pm hot as heck here in Texas. Going to the Concourse de elegance show at Porsche Houston North, who�s supposed to be one of the best dealership in the Nation. Not showing my car is not show quality just want to make it look as good as I can, plus I get to drive it 40 miles, highway and early in the morning going to hit trips.
Installed Koni Special Active struts today, actually started yesterday but I'm in no hurry. The toughest part of the front struts was removing the caliper mounting bolts. These have been in there for 20 years and apparently there was no shortage of Loctite at the factory that day...way too much was used and after 20+ years one of the bolts started galling on me on the last 4/5 threads. NOT good! I was able to get the blots out (they're M12 - 1.5 and very sturdy but I wanted to minimize the wheel carrier thread damage as that could have turned into a really big deal. I was able to clean and chase the threads on the carrier very slowly and very carefully. Whew! The galling was so bad that I couldn't get the carrier material off the bolt at all, tried a fine steel pick, a small file and a thin Dremel cutting wheel. Luckily the bolt was galled on the bottom 2/3 theard so I cut the bolt down by that many and there was still a solid 9 - 11 threads taking a bite so no worries there. The new struts look great! I'll do the rear shocks tomorrow, have everything wire brushed and soaking with Kroil for the evening.
You might consider adding a metric thread file to your toolbox. It's one of those things you won't need very often but it's cheap and is very handy when you DO need it.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-177-8-Metric-Thread/dp/B0017R1DOM/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=metric+thread+file&qid=1624146333&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-177-8-Metric-Thread/dp/B0017R1DOM/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=metric+thread+file&qid=1624146333&sr=8-6
Please let us know how Koni Special Actives ride compared to your previous struts. The reviews I read they are much smoother with still having good control. We have 4 Konis ready to install when we rebuild the suspension.
Went to the Porsche concourse de Elegance show. A bunch of cool cars, Houston Porsche North super cool and modern dealership.
One of two 4.0.
Sick sounding car.
That�s how I like them look at the mileage of the rs convertible.
Low mileage 40th anniversary.
2800 mile 4.0. The only want $ 585,00 .
Pelican Parts had a car show today in Southern California. Maybe half a dozen 996s, lots of GTs, a few Ferraris and Lamborghinis.
Wish the 996 had engine access like this one.
Any location is a place to exercise.
Pelican was giving out these pins and it is a 996.
Looks like a good show
@3/98 911 coupe
@TexSquirrel
hope to make it down one of these days.
One of the more silly things to take care of but replaced the hood latch trim piece as the old one was cracked and disintegrating - just bothered me every time I opened the trunk. Checked all the bulbs on the light units too while they were out. And have to say of all the cars I've owned if you had to change bulbs this is the easiest and best system ever.
My lights don�t turn on so I�ll probably have to change that bulb. I got my amp bracket from Germany but no screws so my buddy at Porsche west Houston reorder them for me. I�ll do the light when I get the screws for the bracket. Squirrel and I also go to the cars and coffee on Saturdays so maybe we can get together there. Yogi was filming some more content last Saturday at this show so I�m curious to see what he comes up with.
Just got some front and rear pads ordered. Going to wait and swap out rotors over the winter when I get in there to replace some suspension components.
Loving this set up. I would have considered the shifter in black but it looks really good with the silver pedals and floor board. Well done! Need to get my hands on that steering wheel sooner than later.
I received a Porsche notebook as a gift, and lo and behold it fits perfectly where the manuals would be (if a previous owner hadn�t lost them). So now I am running a log book for the first time in a car.
One of the first things I did was remove that manual holder. It just gets in the way and serves no purpose for me as my previous owner also lost the books/manual.
As someone who has the books, they never got stored there anyways. Taking it off looks cleaner and adds more leg room. If only there was a sufficient glove box somewhere.
As someone who has a glovebox and his manuals�I keep my manuals in a filing cabinet in my home office along with all of my maintenance and parts receipts.
The glovebox is too small to hold the manuals and anything else.
I've been driving to the beach every day and then walking about 7 miles on the boardwalk, which is remarkable considering a few months ago I had trouble walking from room to room in my house. Both the drive with the top down, and the long walks in the ocean air are exhilarating. I had my suspension completely refreshed a few months ago and the car is just so much fun to drive. After 11 years I still love this car.
Took it out to get breakfast for the family, then took my son to work and final to Kroger for some groceries. Love driving the car. Anyway my butcher manager friend at Kroger got me a deal on a rack of baby backs. They are going on the smoker tomorrow.
Finished cleaning the wheels after flushing the brakes and installing braided brake lines, along with one of Skip's UOAS, Brombacher oil pan, and had Lous at Xcellence install the IMS solution as I needed a trans jack, plus he has a tad more experience and a big lift.....then finished up with some Driven oil along with some Driven injector additive. Interestingly enough, the old IMS was a double and did not show any signs of being a problem....but the main seal was leaking....... so installed a new clutch and flywheel. Took it out for a run on some hilly roads after a careful Raby warm-up.. Tomorrow, Sunday, if I can pry the Mrs. away from the horses and dressage......hope to go top-down to the annual cruise night in Mendham.
Took my 17 year old fixing to be 18 chihuahua rat terrier for a ride. Picked up my son, no I don�t need some rear seat deletes. My dog finally met something older than her .
DROVE IT! Got home from work, showered, ate dinner, then took a run to the bank to make an ATM deposit. Could I have done a mobile deposit? Yes, but what fun is that? Where I live, I am 25 mins away from any shopping center or bank. I used to consider this an annoyance until I got my 911. In one direction, the shopping center is a trip down a major local highway for a number of miles, boring. In the other direction, it's a straight, long, county road, with no bends, hills, nothing. Boring *** drives...But I know the back roads. Took me about an hour and a half to go to the bank and back
loving this car.
Haha even when I lived in the suburbs I'd drive to the next town over even though most shopping centers were within 10 minutes (in traffic). Now that I live in the country it's not any different even with a shopping center 10 minutes away, I still go to the next town over whenever I need to do some shopping. Only there's a lot more twistys and curves, oh and also a nice lake along the way too. I love the country!
Monday, I needed to pick up 2 gallons of deck stain. So I packed up the old can for matching and rather than take one of the daily drivers (Outback or Accord), I felt like a trip in the recently acquired 996. After playing tennis, I returned and picked up the 3 gallons and stored them in the frunk in a cardboard box. Later in the day as I was heading out to play some more tennis, I went to remove the cardboard box with the 3 gallons of (oil based) stain and to my horror discovered that one of the cans had leaked. And the cardboard box had likewise JUST started to leak. I patronize a locally owned paint store where I pay stupid prices but feel good about it. My rage was through the roof. Anyway, the volume of stain in the frunk was minimal and I was able to clean it out with a small, dark stain remaining. My garage floor is a mess and I need to trash my tennis garb. My anger had me in a mood for 2 days and my wife is just now starting to talk to me. I'll look for a new piece of silver liner for the frunk. Lesson learned.
Installed DEPO tails and a new light switch!
The adventure began, when the LED bulbs in the stock housing started flickering. Removed the housing to check the bulbs and the contacts were broken...complete with little ***** of foil the pervious owner used to "fix" it.
So I though it'd be a good time to freshen up the rear with some DEPO housings. Got them installed and the right side tail light (and side marker) would only work intermittently...since brake, blinker and reverse lights worked, it had to be the light switch.
So, I replaced the light switch (took 15 minutes) and works like new!
New front rotors and pads, new rear tires, Pagid rotors, Akebono pads.
Rear tires had about 5mm of tread left, new ones are about 7.2mm. I had all my tires hunter road force balanced and one rear tire was 59!!! The other rear tire was 24. Replaced them, one is 6, the other 8!!!
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^I wonder if my goalie equipment would fit? Pads in the frunk and everything else behind the front seats, perhaps. Hope to get back to it in the fall�haven�t played since March 2020. But the good news is that my gear is actually dry now!
Cleaned my radiators and replaced a cracked air duct on the passenger side radiator. I did notice an improvement in cooling. One additional step I took that I haven't seen mentioned on RL is that I used a evaporator coil cleaner to really clean the fins. After removing and vacuuming out the leaves and dirt, a lot more dirt came out after spraying the radiators and condensers with coil cleaner and then rinsing them thoroughly with water. The cracked air duct may have also been a significant factor -- can't really tell whether or how much it reduced air flow to the radiator.
The front underbody panel also had cracks -- will need to replace that next. It wasn't immediately obvious how to remove the old panel, I guess it will be more obvious when I look up the parts diagram and see what fasteners there are.
I had them made. I was going to offer them for sale but I thought I should test them out first to see how they hold up to engine compartment heat.
I've had one in the Cayenne for a few weeks and so far, it seems to be holding up.
After getting them in and out on the road for a couple of weeks I can say that they are worth it to me. Keep in mind that the shocks/struts I took out were 21+ year old originals so nearly anything was bound to be better. The Konis are doing just what they're sold as doing, they provide a very smooth, even ride when just taking it easy on the smooth stuff but really do tighten up when I either push the car around or when an unexpected road surface is encountered. I like them a lot so far and am glad I went with them. I am not tracking this car but I do enjoy some spirited driving and these Koni Special Actives meet my needs. After 21+ years I can tell now with the new shocks/struts installed that new drop links are in order. Most of the steering gear looked alright and could have possibly been changed out once by someone else, I don't know. Also an alignment was done and I also do not know the last time one was performed (I've had the car a little over a year now) but I would recommend getting one done after installing the new suspension even if no steering gear is touched. My car definitely sat with a much higher, stiffer squat after I installed them.
Curious, are you using stock springs, ROW springs or lowering springs? I am on ROW springs with Koni Special Actives and Eibach anti roll bars and thinking of going with lowering springs on the Koni but not sure if it will have enough travel with them.
Doug - I went with ECS Tuning for the shocks/struts and through both Pelican Parts and FCP Euro for the mounting hardware (i.e. front strut mounts, bearing plates, bumpers, bellows, etc.) I did not change out the rear mounts, they looked fine to me. Some of the stuff has started to have longer lead-times for shipping. It's likely you wouldn't get some of the stuff until August or September. I don't drive out to Shelton often but have been through there plenty of times. I mostly stay here on the Kitsap Peninsula or head over the Hood Canal Bridge to Port Ludlow, Port Hadlock, Port Townsend, etc. I did take a nice drive this morning out to Belfair via the Old Belfair Hwy, fun road and it was early so I pushed it around a bit.
Scott,
Thanks for the reply. I am not in a huge hurry�I have so much to learn about all the different bit and pieces of the suspension systems on these cars. The 911 is far cry from what I am used to dealing with.
Concerning the drive to Mason County, there is a nice loop in the Dewatto area north of Belfair State Park and east of the north-south leg of Hood Canal. Some great twists and elevation changes out there.
Thanks again,
I took the drive through Dewatto to Seabeck a couple months ago before all the bicyclists were out, it was great! I did it early on a Saturday morning and was able to really stretch the Carrera's legs out for a while. It was a hoot! I kept the revs up most of the time between 2nd and 3rd with a couple of straight-aways getting into 4th. I had the top down too and the engine sounded great. Getting the shocks/struts in and out can be a bit of a bear now and then, just take your time and give yourself a few days to do it at your own pace so as not to feel like you're rushed with it. If your shocks and struts are originals like mine were you'll feel a huge difference in the drive. I wish I would have bought fresh drop-links before I got started, it would have been worth having them there to replace with fresh ones. Also don't forget to get an alignment afterwards. I used the Les Schwab in Poulsbo, they take about an hour or so and it cost me $120, well worth it and in my case I had no idea when it had been done last since I only have had this car a little over a year. Good luck and enjoy, I'll keep my eyes peeled for a red 911 out in Mason County! Regards, Scott Shand
Went to the beach to get my walking in. It started as a beautiful day. As I was almost back at my car after a five mile walk, it started to get dark and stormy looking. By the time I got in my car and started home, the skies were angry that day my friend. Like an old man sending back soup at a deli. A half mile later the skies opened up and a deluge came down. When I got home, I found what you see in the last photo. My son had been standing there 30 seconds earlier.
Installed the Momo Prototipo wheel on NRG quick release hub. Despite a shocking lack of instructions from the manufacturer, it came together and the horn & airbag electronics seemed to function as desired-- thought I nailed it. Torqued to spec, done!
Unfortunately, the turn signal failed to cancel and there was a hateful clicking sound when the the wheel was turned more than 15 degrees from center. More unfortunately, my hubris allowed me to torque the 24mm nut down, which was easy to break free, but the hub adapter refused to let go. Long story short, I now own a gear pulling kit. This time I paid attention to the instructions written on the clockspring (you keep your clockspring with the NRG hub), realigned & reassembled and it's great!
Next step is the shifter **** & boot. FunctionFirst is backlogged six weeks on their billet ***** so I ordered from Black Forest Industries. Shift boot & matching console cover arrived a week late from Amazon, not sure if it's the "real leather" as described so, looking for better options.
Momo Prototipo
NG QR hub & Porsche adapter
First, wash in a year and drive in a few weeks. I picked up an 04 MINI Cooper S recently to toy around with so that has been keeping me occupied. Getting in and driving the 911 after spending time in the MINI was a pleasant change of pace.
I spoke to a rep at Koni about pairing their special active dampers with H&R Sports (or other lowering springs) and they advised against it. I'm running Bilstein B8s instead.
What is the currently preferred method of taking the yellow out of the lenses, and keeping them that way?I can see a little in mine, but since it�s kept inside it�s not bad. I took the wife and one of the kids to an Asian restaurant for my birthday last night that I�ve past by in the lakes region for forty years or so for a little culinary diversion last night in the rain.
Had an impromptu ignition switch change at work today after the old one decided to give up suddenly� had a quick thought that it might also solve an intermittent rough starting issue (it did not)
Went out to cars and coffee.Two triple digit trips. I�m almost certain the car has a tune went past 7300 rpm. Anyway look at the Twin Turbo promotive built 3.9. 800 hp at the wheels without methanol. Probably 215 mph car. Owner is an awesome guy he races autocross, his next race is in an NSX. Nice 2003 blue convertible, unfortunately according to the owner probably bore scoring. Thanks Jesus I almost went for that car because it was at Porsche West Houston. The guards red with tan is a 09/79 built sc 40000 miles , the paint is original, incredible that a car that was built 42 years ago looks like that. I love ❤️ going to hang out with the guys.
Turbo charge boxier s 425 hp.
Look at all the work craftsmanship. This built is what Porsche didn�t do. 996 3.9 to.
Car is sick, if I feel I�m going fast in my car this car is out of this world. A lot of time and money building this. This is a right in your face car, it sounds amazing.
A 42 year old SC with 40,00 the paint looks flawless, Factory.
My car with the red wheels. Funny 3 duck tails next to each other.
Nice convertible.
Well, "today" is a stretch as some unexpected problems and work (job) created significant delays, but the car is finally together after:
Clutch
RMS
Input, output, and shift shaft seals on transmission (and fresh fluid, of course)
Front diff output seals (and fluid)
Radiator hoses (and coolant flush)
.5 qt deep sump kit and X51 baffle (and oil, of course)
Scavenge pump O ring
Ctek battery charger connector
New exhaust clamp bolts (old ones were too short)
Brake fluid flush
Maybe I can get it to the track this summer! (work permitting ....)
Paul
Has a ceramic pro lifetime coating so this is the only way I wash her now�
Sun Joe Foam Cannon treatment
She�s getting there�
Rinsed her with the Sun Joe pressure washer and gently dried with microfiber towels
Used Chemical Guys tire shine and FW1 to protect the wheels for now until I get them refinished and ceramic coated
You're not supposed to use regular soap, and especially not soap with wax additives on the top. Look for a spray on top cleaner from Meguiars or someone.
you are correct - I told my installer I had this large bottle of Meguiars that had the wax additive, and he said that it would make no difference really since the wax won�t stick to the ceramic layer anyway and the soap will still do it�s job. But agree - it�s not the ideal soap.
I actually meant on the soft top. There are specific products out there for cleaning soft convertible tops. Incorrect cleaners (allegedly) can ruin the waterproof qualities of the top and wax included soaps can discolor it. I figure for a few bucks it's worth having a soft-top specific cleaner and keeping the rest of the car wash soap off of there as much as practical.
When I sent my car away for a few months, I kept the manual so I'd have something to look at...
For cleaning the top, it says:
Do not wash the convertible top each time the car is washed. It's usually sufficient to spray or wash with clean water.
Brush dust of in the direction of the weave with a soft brush (direction of the weave? You can see that?)
Only if there is heavy dirt, wet the convertible top with lukewarm water and the Porsche Wash-Shampoo & convertible-top cleaner (I use 303), using a sponge or soft brush, and rub gently. Rinse cleaner thoroughly off the top with clean water.
Treat once a year (again, I use 303 Fabric Guard)
REMOVE BIRD DROPPINGS IMMEDIATELY. For this one, I don't generally notice them until they dry, but I guess if you were watching more closely you could get it while it's wet....
Inspired by the ceramic coating thread, decided to get back to detailing. Hit with a clay bar a few weeks back then it sat under the cover, pulled out the orbital and got to work. Doing days at a time because the humidity here hasn't been much fun past week, still about 60% to go.
Took it on a nice 330 mile round trip upstate. Nice to get out on some twisting country lanes with plenty of passing zones. The 996 was in its element. Fast, Comfortable, Connected, and most of all FUN.
I did some serious arts and crafts last week on my 996. Factory Aero Kit front number. GT3 Tek side skirts, and a Getty Design GT3 style insert wing (not installed yet). My 2 friends and I did the paint and install ourselves.
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Also installed some GT3 seats a couple weeks ago. And yes, that is a kid seat in the back. I'm thinking about taking them out though because it would be difficult to get my daughter out of the back quickly if need be.
I got them from
https://betterbodiesmotorsport.com/p...-rocker-panels
. The fitment was okay. Looks better on the car than off. I would recommend getting more pinch rail side skirt clips than what they provided. They're definitely not OEM quality but they fine if you're not looking under a microscope.
Must be nice. Another reason I was thinking I should take them out is so I can put my golf clubs in the back.
I did the heater flap un-foaming today. Took 4 hours, from start to driving away.
Glad there isn't any foam bits flying around now. I used Dyna-mat and aluminum tape.
Took the day off today. So today was the day to DRIVE. Spent about 4 hours in the car. Did my usual backroads. I�m very familiar with these roads, so I�m able to focus less on where I�m going, and more on getting more familiar with the car, working on my heel-toe downshifts, braking, accelerating through corners, etc. I want to run my first DE event in Nov. for my 30th birthday. My goal for myself was get my first 911 for my 30th. Well, I got it a little early! So my first track weekend will commemorate my birthday just fine.
600 miles logged so far and it already feels like an extension of me. Being in the car just feels so right�my wife caught me sitting in it the other night after 10pm, in the garage, skimming through the owners manual.
After the drive, parked it in the shade, let it cool down, had some lunch, and gave her a bath and some wax. Cleaning these wheels is a bitch! They sure look good though.
nice looking car. Yes the more you drive it the more you are going to love it. If you are going to track the car make sure she is ready for it , wouldn�t like to see another one bites the dust. Enjoy and congrats on achieving your goal and dream.
My suggestion is you better include your wife in your 996 activities, driving, touring, washing, etc. My wife cannot and will not drive a manual....but...she loves riding along, listening to that flat six music, and washing/detailing the 996. She wants to be involved in all things Porsche and 996. As the old adage goes...happy wife happy life.
Thanks. Yes, I posted a thread here asking what I should do to prepare to get on the track, for myself, and the car. I received a ton of great info, and lots to research. I would love to be able to have everything that �should� be done, done, before ever getting on the track. However, I don�t imagine that happening. If my research shows that the risks of the occasional track visit with the car in stock form prove to be highly likely, I will not be tracking until the mods/upgrades are done.
I would *like* to think that the car would be OK, with occasional track use (maybe couple times a year at most for now) while I perform these mods/upgrades over time. I also am new to track days, so I am sure I won�t be asking 100% from the car for a long long time. There�s lot of info online, and LOTS can scare you! Almost scared me from getting the car in the first place if I�m honest. No looking back now.
Picked up my car from an IMS Solution Certified Installer
Car passed the pre-qualification ( NO BORE SCORING)
IMS Solution, AOS, RMS, flywheel, clutch, timing chain tensioners, coil packs and spark plugs installed.
Going to have the injectors replaced at the 1,500 mile oil change.
I had mine done in Syracuse. Great shop great service bit of a drive but well worth it. VERY thorough and they let you watch if you want. Been 3 years now and perfect! They are certified installers also! I do all my own wrenching so I have not gone back to them for anything else.
https://www.upstateimports.com/porsc...ing-facts.html
https://theimssolution.com/certified-installers/
Specialty Cars in Allentown PA
https://specialtycarsservicecenter.com
They are IMS Solution Certified Installers
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND them.
Small family owned shop with outstanding knowledge of the 996, experience and attention to detail.
They kept me informed of every step of the pre-qualification and install.
From failing the AOS, bore scoping from the sump to installing the new flywheel.
I had to wait a little over 3 months for an appointment but it was worth it!
Got the car ready and had a wonderful day at cars and coffee. Met some new Porsche guys since we went to a different part of Town. Wife went with me to her first Porsche event. Finished the day at a charity event concert. The last band was from Cali Led Zeppelin tribute �stairway to Heaven � was on point, byob plenty of Cold Ipas.
Karbach Rode� Clown 🤡 double IPA 🍺 9.5 alcohol.
Squirrel 🐿 996 next to a 1967 912 .That car is older than me. I love seeing these old cars running and in great shape.
Mean 991 gt3, straight pipes
Got the car washed. Have new brake pads and they stop 🛑 real well, unfortunately they produce a bunch of dust and those 408s are a pain in the rear to clean. Squirrel told me to put akebono pads. Anyway I�m going to try to find me a better wheel cleaner.
Nice call on the Hartech. Being in Canada, Alpine Motor Werks did mine under license from Hartech. Shipping the car across our prairies to Calgary was one thing, shipping it across the Atlantic wasn't going to happen....
Picked up my car over the weekend ... 1) h&r front and rear sway bars, 2)brake fluid, 3) top mounts, 4) front bump stops, 5) genneral gmax rear tires (295 up from prior owner 275)
Prior to that replaced the 1) broken fuel door hinge, 2) dated headlight bulbs, 3) new Bluetooth stereo + cubby holder, and 4) replaced broken lcd screen on the ac unit
Nothing major, but transferring my Personalised Plate over seems to make it more
mine
..!
Paint wasn't 100% behind the larger Plate, but I can live with that..
Yeah, I would have had it done myself I think and factored that into my Budget had I not set out to find an already Hartech'd 996..
Great that you can get the Hartech Treatment your side of the Pond..!
Today, I bought a set of Wheels.. They'll need Paint and Tyres with Tread..! But picked them up for a great price..
Ziggy and I picked up a big part for our next project
99. Might need to add more granite trim
State of the dash leather ever since my dad bought the car 16ish years ago
Boxster red, of course, with leather dash and door option. 3/98 with aerokit. It just turned 44,000 miles and the interior is in very good condition.
Some quick photos:
Both Porsches were hand washed and polished today at Autoglym centre , Pitsop in Chalandri , Athens. Once again big thanks to the team that looks after all of my cars for years
Not a "What did you do?", but a "What are you about to do?". Thanks to
@TexSquirrel
, I've got a new Gurney flap for my '99 aerokit's spoiler.
The primer, paint and clearcoat arrived today, but now I'm having second thoughts about painting it. I've seen the GT3 models sometimes have the unpainted Gurney flap. What's the Rennlist take - paint, or no?
Headed to an event this weekend (Porsches in the Park in Portland, ME; fundraiser for the Dempsey Center, and Maine native Patrick Dempsey makes an appearance), and I don't think I'll take the time to do anything with it before then.
I prefer it black myself, but since you already have the primer and paint, I say go for it!
I had planned on keeping it black, then changed to the new GT3 RS wing.and no longer needed it.
My Taco is bubble wrapped and taking up space in my garage.
I'm going to store my Taco away in the attic next to my original C2 deck...or maybe sell it if I can't get it up the attic stairs.
We'll see what happens this weekend when I talk my son into helping me relocate it.
Ohlins R&T + Tarett end links are installed so it was time for an alignment. Car now drives fantastic and now it's time to play with the shiny dampening ***** and get the ride dialed in.
Yeah, I gave in and did some tests sprays, and then when I was satisfied with the color, hit the piece with a couple of coats of primer. I'll get to the color layers and clear coat later this week.
I'm thinking thin 3M automotive tape for installation. The technical bulletin from 1999 specifies a cement, and even has a part number, but I've called all the usual places and it's no longer available.
For the first time I decided to wash both cars at the same time. Just got finished spending $$$$ on both. 996 got 997 GT3 shifter, coil packs/plugs, new injectors, UAOS, new body trim and the 997 got new front rotors, pads and sensors.
I�m partial to the ducktail. I love mine, but for long *** trips I prefer the F150 super crew with the 36 gallon tank. Plus I can load all the beach gear in the bed, we�re fixing to go to Corpus Christi Texas for 5 days in the sand,!
since my truck has the 2.7 eco boost, when I fill it up sometimes it reads 800 miles to empty. No I don�t haul or tow anything. We just use it as the family car, suv with extra cargo space.
I replaced the plugs and coil packs in my new to me '99 C2 today. I'm also replacing the original mufflers with something that will hopefully be a bit more... aurally entertaining so I had them out of the way and that made access to the coil packs a lot easier. It still wasn't a walk in the park getting numbers one and four out and replaced but it sure was a lot easier than if the mufflers were still in place. Those of you who have replaced the coil packs with the mufflers still in the car get huge props for your wrenching prowess from me because I'm pretty sure I could not have done that and I do the desmo valve adjustments on my Ducati's. I'm waiting for some new stainless hardware to mount the new mufflers and I need to do an oil change while I've got it up on jack stands but I should have it finished up pretty quickly and back on the road. Great car.
I have a set of those headlights as well. Had them since early this year, and I'm already seeing micro cracks in one of the lights (looks like "crazing" as seen in porcelain)
Time to see if the warranty is any good.
Other than that, once led's are put in, they work great.
Greg
Went to my mechanics place. Got my passenger side window to work properly. Previously they put in a new part, but it was set up for a boxster. So it wouldn�t go down all the way. My guy fixed it. Then we took out the front wheels, front bumper cleaned the radiators and he also installed a new resistor on the drivers side front fan. Super cool to find out my wheels actually have a 993 part number. I have seen a 98 993 that had a 4/98 production date. Had a blast, plus I. Grilled some angus steaks and sausage, beers 🍻 music. Got to drive my car 120 miles, Awesome day.
Got them cleaned pretty good.
Awesome job cleaning the rads and condensers. I also used a chemical foam spray.
993 part number.
As always some cold beer.
Playing some rock roll.
A friends 99 convertible that had a bunch of work done including skips UAOS.
we did not got to work on that one. Got to meet Jose he is a nice guy. Man he did a ton of work to his car. He said he will probably go to the cars and coffee at Kingbierhaus. Jose got the gundo hack done and it sounds pretty good. Let me know about that x pipe.
Good job on the radiators. Taking things apart and separating them is the only proper way to clean them. Sticking a vacuum in the bumper is just a waste of time.
Gurney flap painted and installed. I'm not pumped with the small gap due to the thickness of the 3M tape (which does have a thin layer of foam). The Porsche technical bulletin for dealers for the dealer inatalls specifies a cement, but I couldn't source it even with the part number.
The paint isn't perfect, but I didn't expect it to be. The color is close, but it's not as smooth as I'd like. For a prime/coat/clearcoat job with aerosol in my garage, though, I'm quite happy.
I spent an inordinate amount of time looking at other examples and then centering and trueing up to the edge of the wing. In that process, I discovered my "Carerra" badge isn't centered, which will bother me to no end now.
Thank you. I'm pleased overall with the outcome, though I may re-seat it at some point.
It took three coats of primer and many (5?) coats of color to get the right hue. 3 coats of clearcoat on top of that.
I was impressed with the aerosol paint from ExpressPaint, and they supply detailed instructions.
Took a nice trip in the 04 C2, 500 mile trip from Sacramento - San Fransisco highway 1 north - Bodega Bay Spud Point for some of the best Clam Chowder, on to Fort Bragg for few days doing the Skunk Train and Glass Beach and seafood at Noyo Fish. P-car did great, love the Feal suspension on the twisties, return trip saw 225 water temperature in the valley with stop and go commute freeway traffic and 107 outside temp. at 75mph and 107 the car maintain 200 to 205 temp.
Took a few hours drive around the lower Olympic Peninsula this morning, stopped in Port Hadlock and took this picture before heading into Port Townsend. There's a small automotive antique/memorabilia shop there but alas, nothing caught my eye today. Headed back via Chimicum and then waited for a while through a Hood Canal bridge opening before getting back home on the Kitsap Peninsula. It was a beautiful morning here in Washington state and the Carrera was a blast to drive through some very scenic (and sometimes twisty!) roads.
Going to cars and coffee. Wash it at midnight, those 408s are a pain in the ***. Squirrel 🐿 told me to switch to Akebono pads, but even though I have the money I am like Sanford and sons. I don�t waste anything. Anyway, I will know next time when it�s time to replace the pads, I don�t waste anything, read the book the �Millionaire Next Door�. So listening to rush and detailing my car at 2:00 am in the morning, I don�t mind, I�m having a blast, Boston is next.
IPAS in my Texas Tech Red raider wonder mug.
Had a blast. Got to meet more Porsche guys and gals. We even watch F1 qualifying. My car temp Is cooler
now that the rads were cleaned.
They had donuts and kolaches. The sausage ones were pretty good 👍
Watching F1 qualifying in the projector screen.
Full blown race car
Pretty good bar.
My buddy with the protomotive built 3.9 turbo. 920 hp at the wheels. My car is behind his.
996 turbo x50 next to 930.
Look how cool my water temp is now. Definitely is worth while to clean the rads and condensers.
Funny, I'v seen many people say that their car didn't run any cooler after cleaning. Mine did run cooler after cleaning, but I had a cracked air duct (don't know how much or if that reduced air flow) and I also used condenser cleaning spray during the cleaning (which I think helps).
Been too busy at work to do much wrenching. Both the work truck and family car needed work so that cut into the budget. Been driving it as much as I can, some for work while the work truck was in the shop. Wanted to try some Powerstop brakes for the van, but waited two months for them to arrive and had to cancel. I�ll try again later next year earlier on to deal with the lead time. Taking the family to London for ten days tomorrow night provided they find my daughter�s COVID test for some needed time off.
I wonder if that spray makes a difference. A lot more dirt came out of the fins in mine from using the spray after I thought I already had the radiators clean. I see so many posts where people say radiator cleaning didn't make a difference in temp. It did with ours -- maybe just a coincidence or maybe cleaning with the spray makes a big difference.
.
PURCHASED IT!!! Then put 1,000 miles on the odometer from KY, where I bought it, to all over Ohio including a car show, Cars & Coffee, my buddies garage to check codes, all fluids, etc. After being on the road for 42 hours� I took it home and we both had a well deserved NAP!! 😎. Tomorrow I�m gonna get it registered and put tags on� forgot about that part! LOL!!!
Love the spoiler. Car is Paladio Metallic. It had 32,300 miles at pick up� had.
Speedlines & TechArt whale tail spoiler.
Nicely optioned.
Window sticker. On sale 75% off!
That�s my 928 Euro behind it�. Yeah, I�m blessed!!
Pulled off a driveway at a bad angle- being so low with this front bumper is not a good combination. Damn near tore my bumper off so I had to replace the bumper bracket which wasn't too bad. Just happy the bumper stayed in one piece [kind of surprised tbh] lol
Fixed:
Well, it's not what I did today, but what Flat 6 Innovations has been doing...
Before and afters...
The transformation is always amazing. Somehow these pictures are more exciting when they are of your own engine. It won't be long now!!!
Christmas in August!! Thanks Jake, Jud, and team!
Now I need to take driving lessons.
It�s amazing that a car that was built 23 years ago still has these nice looking interiors. Anyway after speaking with a company that re dyes Conditions interiors, I spent the afternoon conditioning my seats. Anyway show you a few pics of before and after driver seat. These will do for now but a rep from the company will be coming my way to look at the interior and tell me about further improvement. They have a scanner that looks at your leather where is best and then mixes the dye. Then after they apply the dye, they put a protective coat on top. Kind of like clear coat on paint.
Before
Before
After
After. As you can imagine the driver seat is the worst.
I figured if I could at least maintain what I have and keep it soft, from tearing, I would be happy. Similar wear on my drivers seat. What are you using?
Yeah I used eagle one leather cleaner first. Then the conditioner. Eagle one is out of Carlsbad, real high tech products. Advance Auto Parts and Autozone carry their products. I use to sell this stuff, they were own by Valvoline. Anyway, I prefer to use a separate cleaner and then a conditioner. The cleaner has to have a balance PH because if not it messes up the fibers. What I currently have in My garage are the professional products which are better than the retail DIY you buy at the part stores. Once I meet with the guy from the Newer company that is redying these interiors and I see the results, I will post it. I went to Eagleone.com, they are no longer making these products they have downsize their operation and also seem that they got out of the PRO business. I would suggest to watch some videos from Chicago Auto Pros to see what leather cleaner conditioners they are using.
Got my bonus at Shell. Not bad 93 octane at $3.10 a gallon. Wash it late at night listening to some tunes and drinking some good beer. Ready for the morning.
One of my favorite tunes. Listen to the money talk AC/DC.
Done for the night. All the interior has been detail, leather cr�eme conditioned.
It's for my DD '02 cab. 3.8 Stage1 Nickies(given) with CP pistons, 82mm TB, & IPD plenum, UAOS, all new plastic bits pulleys & such. Not tracking this car so I didn't go for the Stage2. It was being installed yesterday and should be running and tuned starting next week. It will have 3 tunes on it: 93 octane, 91 octane, & valet. It may not be red and black, but it's super cool!
The CP pistons aren't really needed for the Stage1, but I figured the lighter weight will help in some way, maybe long term wear, and the incremental cost is little. And they are very pretty!
The controversial one is the plenum. My rational for this is all about laminar flow. Reducing turbulence will increase flow. Opening up the throttle body will increase flow. But, the improvement from a given component won't be seen if there is a subsequent turbulence producing component.(intake porting, exhaust porting, flow through the heads) The engine tune should be able to optimize for the new flow equation created by adding these components. Regardless how much power is added, it will be awesome!
Thought I was the only nut drying my car with my backpack blower! Lol. My father in law (landscaper for 25 yrs) always did it and I thought he was crazy�until I tried it. Although I Still need to follow with chamois and microfiber with quick wax or spray Detailer to get rid of all water marks.
Awesome day. 3 Gt3. 4 996. The red coupe was low mileage 23k miles. Then I stayed at king bierhaus, they had an all you could eat sausage special. Pretty nice place, met some more cool guys. Drove my car for 75 miles.
Nice low mileage 2004 C4s.
This gt3 was sick.
That�s a blue wrap on a gt3.
Hybrid
Back seats on that panamera are more comfortable than a limo.
Beautiful 04 23k coupe. Paint looks new.
For those racers auto blip downshifts. He and his brother own the company.
October fest.
Some dark 7.9 percent beer, actually pretty tasty,
All you can eat sausages for $12.
I never taught I was going to pee in a beer keg.
Cool bier garden. Will be taking my little chihuahua rat terrier next time.
Looks like you are good for the next 20 years with the rebuild! I hear you on the IPD/TB. Love the giant sucking sound it makes. Worth it for the sound alone. Gonna try one more time to see if I can get something out of it with a software update and retune. Can't wait to see some footage of the car when it's ready for driving.
Drove over 250 miles today pre-driving our next club drive on Aug 21st. Had a blast, great roads, great food, finished up at the famous Salt Lick BBQ in Driftwood, Tx.
Kudos to my lovely wife for being a great navigator/note taker! Couldn't plan a good event without her!
Of course on the way back we had to stop at a quilt shop...
Came out of the restaurant, and of course another Porsche had to park next to me!!!
Welp put a solid 20 miles in the gt3ish. Ill update my other thread soon with details. Mean while here is a crapy video of the first trip out of the neighborhood. Alignment was way out of wack and the camera was on mrror image so i am NOT in england
. Also windows r down so the wind noise makes it sound a little wackey.
https://youtu.be/Dv8QyeAbN-w
spent the week in April for my birthday hitting the breweries and BBQ joints. Salt lick is pretty cool, BYB coolers, we also took our dog 🐶 she had a feast as we gave her some brisket, sausage and pork ribs. My best friend says that if he dyes and comes back as a dog he wants to live in my house 😂.
Plugs, updated coils, and Fabspeed supercups! The coils and plugs are a huge pain in the butt, won�t do them myself again if I can help it! Love the new exhaust though!
My car is back from a major service, including IMS solution, timing chains and guides, motor mounts, and I had the Gundo hack done� so I finally washed it. The paint isn�t in great shape, but I think seal gray hides the flaws pretty well
Next up: finding some 18� wheels
After some inspiration�Washed, of course leaf blower dried, then quick detail spray wipe down. First bath in a few weeks, much needed.
Don�t mind the messy garage. That�s next on my ever growing list!
Back pack blower dried 👍🏻
thanks a lot I appreciate that. And yes it sits so low to the ground compared the anything I�ve owned prior�and STILL there is huge fender gap! I probably won�t go coilover (unless on the more budget friendly side, read good things about Feal?), most likely will look into springs, and I also want to add spacers.
I'd be down with that - I have run H&R springs on my DD F30 for like... a TON of miles and they still look and feel new. Read a lot of good things about the Feal CO's and based on what I know of the company, I think they would be the budget friendly choice with a BIG bump in performance over a stock damper and lowering spring.
Spacers are cool and would round out the setup, I think you're on a money path - like I said, the car looks fire as it sits, lowered with a little more aggressive stance would perfect it.
thanks man, there�s a lot I want to do, while trying not to go broke in the process lol. In the last year we got married, got a boat, got a house which my wife and I are slowly but fully renovating ourselves nights and weekends, (I am a carpenter/contractor, my wife a designer), and now got my 911, so consider this proverbial plate FULL and this wallet EMPTY lol. Driving this car is my short escape from reality and I am ever so grateful for it.
Thank you! Yeah I am very happy I got a car that had a lot of stuff I would�ve wanted to add. Wheels. Wing. Exhaust. To me, personally, the 911 needs some sort of wing. (sorry purists!)
I�m a contractor too and the Porsche is the only car that fits into one of the three bays. Did manage to carve out some additional space. The daily drivers needed brakes and we finally took some time for vacation before the kids go back to school. So not much in the budget right now for more work. Still, it�s running well with no issues at the moment with just preventative work on the horizon.
i agree with you a ton. Driving this car takes me to a different time and place. I just listen to the engine, shift and go. I sold my last manual car a 1985 M635CSI in 2015. Since January when I got this car it has been nothing but making an excuse to drive. We are in vacation in Corpus Christi now but honestly I can�t wait till we get back home to drive the car again. I have put over 6,000 miles since January. Mine isn�t a garage queen. Well anyway I�m getting the coolers loaded with ice etc for a beach day, I�m going to rent a jet ski, it�s not a Porsche but it will do, only till Friday.
Me 3, contractor too. My poor work truck needs some serious attention and i have had rear shocks for the wifes grooming van on the shop floor fot 2 months.
At least the p-car is back in the road.
specialized trade or GC? I�m a finish carpenter but also GC, although I�m transitioning back to just installing, GC life ain�t for me I�m afraid. Been on my own for almost 7 yrs and every time I GC a larger project I curse myself and say never again.
also Z and Tex those wings are great.
Electrical, gas piping and generators. Army of one. The work truck needed brakes and wanted to try powerstop but couldn�t get them because of production problems. Went back to ford pads and rotors which won�t last. Wife�s needed brakes too, so there went $2k. Stopping is a good thing though.
Thanks! I can�t take too much credit for it, I only got the car less than 2 months ago. It was dirty when it got delivered but paint in decent shape. Needed slight compounding, polishing then sealed, waxed. Nothing crazy.
I am *almost* positive my car has been partially resprayed, if not fully, as there are dirt nibs and stuff in the clear coat that have been sanded and buffed�once you have the eye for that stuff you can NEVER get rid of it - blessing and a curse. I was bummed at first but, From 5 feet the car looks brand new though so overall I�m happy.
My dad got them for me as a gift, I had a small crack in one of the stockers from when I bought it and he noticed and surprised me with LED’s.
I sold the stock ones way too cheap and have regretted it ever since.
Don’t tell him I’m trying to trade them away haha.
I second the opinion that it is likely the ambient air temperature sensor. I think it's correct position is snapped in. Mine was hanging like that until I cleaned my radiators, then I snapped it back in.
Some of you may already know what�s going on with my C2 but for those of you who don�t I bought an eBay Porsche and have been restoring it on my YouTube channel.
Currently I�m completely refreshing the suspension front and rear. I�m going with Koni Active Shocks and Meyle/TRW for the arms and linkages. Lots of dirt but nothing too bad. I decided to repack them upper strut bearings, as they�re completely dry, instead of replacing them. The bump stops were strangely missing from all four shocks. The ABS/Brake sensor harnesses were also completely rotted away. That was not cheap to replace. Fun times.
Just completed this myself, I took off the Vogtland lowering springs, and put the stock ones back in, bottomed out too many times on these roads.
I think you'll like the Koni reds, nice ride, not quite like a Lexus, but a lot less like a go-kart.
I have not yet had the opportunity to toss it around in the corners , but so far seat of the pants meter says they are good to go, and yes, they are the Koni " special active" if that was your question. Feels better in the roundabouts, and the few rough roads I've driven on to date (maybe 50 miles)
I must add, I put new tires on as well, so, lot's of changes.
Thanks for clarifying. Anything is better than what is on there now. 101k miles, stabilizer link joints all gone, front shock bearings were dry and LOTS of brake dust.
yogi, how did the upper strut mounts look? Guy who owned my turbo before me gave $6k to an Indy to �rebuild� the front suspension because it rattled over bumps. Shop replaced everything except the upper strut mounts and bump stops. 500 miles later he sold it to me. Front end still rattled over bumps. I took it apart and discovered one of the mounts had completely separated rubber from steel. Replaced and not more rattles.
Looks like we're all working on the front end. Front right wheel bearing started to make more and more noise. Left front outer CV boot tore on my last autocross. And both of my front diff seals are leaking. Since I am this far, might as well change shocks and springs. Going to go with Bilsteins PSS10's. Also changing out control arms and tie rods.
Mine made horrible noises. Rattles, knocks and creaks.
The upper strut mounts were ok, my problem looks like very worn linkages and the upper bearings were dry as a bone. So I cleaned and repacked the bearings and am replacing everything but the carrier.
Im currently waiting on bump stops, replacement bolts for rusted out rotor screws and light leveling sensor. Finally my ABS/Brake wear wiring harnesses should be here tomorrow. The latter crumbled in my hands. They were not cheap.
Received new wheel to replace cracked wheel. I bought a set of GT3 wheels, but somehow missed this. Doh!!!! Now it's all good.
Won't need to spend money getting rid of the curb rash
And, my car is alive and well in Georgia! Woohoo!
It looks taller than it was, so after engine break-in, the priority will be to FINALLY put these cool things on.
The big problem is refinishing the GT3 wheels. What color? Anthracite? White? Black? I'm stuck. Maybe I'll get them done in silver and use the 17" wheels to experiment with color. What color is the fastest?
Turns out I lost all wheel weights from my driver front wheel and the vibration at highway speeds was no bueno so full 4 wheel balance happened this morning. Radial Tire is a local favorite for PCA members and they took care of the issue quickly.
Don't let the looks fool you
They manage quite few track cars and there was a crap load of new and used Hoosiers all over with other slick tires. I knew they were good when they used a torque wrench on my wheels. Surprisingly few shops do that.
Hah just literally finished! Didn't think I'd need to do this for street driving but I stand corrected. Covered the silver tape with black to keep my OCD in check
Replaced ignition switch. Had classic symptoms. Job went perfectly, which for me is a huge win haha. It had already been done once so the screws were not tight, but they did have a red rubbery sealant overtop of them. What might that stuff be?
Cars and coffee Katy Texas, over 25 cars. Then we stayed over for biers at walkons sports bar. I love ❤️ my Saturdays.
Citrus hazy IPAs off course.
Many biers on tap.
Awesome cooler.
My car next to a turbo s.
1968 912 stroker. When he opened the engine compartment you could smell the oil and fuel.
Awesome interior re make on 1982 coupe sc awesome recaros.
Always love that wail tail.
2021 speedster.
Gt3 what can I say, I�m not worth it.
Finished restoring my OEM 996 headlights today. I bought the car with these covers that I didn't like plus the headlights were yellowing and kinda rough.
I used a heat gun carefully remove the covers (was much harder than I anticipated) and then used the restoration kit from Adams Polishes to remove the oxidation from the lenses.
Some of the adhesive from the covers seems to have eaten into the lenses so I had to sand them locally with 1000, then 2000 grit sand paper and them polish them with my cordless drill polishing pad.
They are not perfect up close but I'm really happy with the end result. Car looks SO much better with the OEM headlights displayed in all its glory! I feel like now I have a REAL 996.
PS I also removed the front plate mount after I took the pictures since I found the plastic cap to close the bumper hole!
Older picture with the covers on:
Driver's side done:
Final result:
How yellow they were:
Fantastic results. Just think those headlights can look that good after 2 decades. Simply amazing considering the issues folks are having with headlights that are only a fraction of that on the 981.
Good job
Make sure you get an UV protectant on them as soon as you can, or they will yellow quickly. Just did mine about 2 months ago with the Cerakote system, worked very well.
Question: What do you do when your client is 2 hours late for her window regulator replacement appointment?
Answer: You work on your own car.
Taped my wheels weights. (Funny to see the posts above AFTER I taped them)
I got the idea from
@zbomb
’s post weeks(months) ago.
Also safety wired my shifter cables.
Another idea I got from a
@zbomb
post.
I also replaced my front brake pad dampers.
I also did some cleaning.
...and I got a new to me shop fridge from a neighbors’s garage sale!!!
Got ready for a road trip to Denver in a couple weeks. Fresh oil and a brake fluid flush.
Side note: one benefit of twists is that you can get to the bleeders through the wheel. I didn't have to take any wheels off.
Swapped my door lights for the one that shows the Porsche emblem!! Looks cool!
Relocated the spoiler switch to the dash, extra plus, now it's "one-touch" to go up!
I've seen several of the door logo projection lights on the internet and here on the forum but they always say they don't fit a 996. How did you break the code?
Ron
If you do any work that requires you to leave the door open, disconnect the lights.
The heat will cause the image to darken.
I�ve been through two sets.
Now I�ve deleted the image and have a bright light that shines down.
Changed the motor oil from Motul to Driven DT-40. Following replacement of the oil filter, I installed the new drain plug and crush washer. Got about 10 ft/lbs. of torque into it and it stripped. I check the bit was fully inserted�but it just gave way so easily. Tried to back it out with no luck. Does anyone have ideas on the best way to remove the damaged drain plug?
Try an SAE Hex key that’s close in size.
If that fails, I’d grind the hole until there’s bare metal and then JB Weld a sacrificial hex key.
Make sure the hex key is bare too.
I have 2 spare LN Magnetic plugs just in case I run into issues. (Or any other Houstonian)
try lightly tapping a slightly larger hex bit. It�s worked for me for the drain plug. A larger torx bit might even work too. The aluminum plug is so soft it should be easy to hammer something a little larger to create good grip.
Today I worked on the shifting driver's seat problem in my 03 C4S. Noticed this most during braking (I don't accelerate that quickly).
After reading a zillion posts on various sites, I tried removing the seat to tighten bolts. I found four on each side of the seat (three were T40, one was T50). I tightened each of these just a bit--none were loose, but I was able to add an 1/8th turn or so to each. After reinstalling the seat, I don't notice the shifting of the seat any more. We'll see how long this lasts.
Then of course had to spend 10min getting radio, time, memory seat, and mirror settings all returned to where I had them. Still don't understand why the one-touch window feature goes away each time you disconnect the battery, but I am just happy that 2min of monkeying with the switch gets it to come back.
Had a Day on the Ramps at my mate's Garage on Friday. Order of Play was:
1. Replace Droney Buzzy Exhaust
2. Install H&R Lowering Springs [GT3 Height]
3. Rear Wiper Delete
Design Tek Cats & TopGear Sports Boxes created an Ear Bleeding buzz between 2 - 3K Revs, making cruising very uncomfortable..
"Old" Exhaust came out without too much trouble..
New Exhaust went in just as easily..
Replaced Double Tips for Stock Ovals..
Car had had a Suspension refresh in late 2019, so everything was in good shape inc. Top Mounts etc. Spring swap out was straight forward..
..although unsure why they needed to be Blue..
Had some Genuine GT3 Alloys to bolt on too.. Just love these on a 996.1
BumperPlugs Wiper Delete Plug didn't come with a washer of any way to prevent Water ingress, so used black sealant. Allowed that to dry for a couple of days..
..then carefully removed the excess without using a Blade; just good ol' Elbow Grease and some Goo Gone..
Stance sorted, Sound sorted..
I�ll be happy to buy the xpipe with the cats. Just pm me. Like the blue springs. Also where did you got the plug for the wiper delete? Thanks Luis in Texas.
We'll be back likely in the early summer next year. My wife follows Doc Martin and wants to get back for the filming in Port Isaac. I'd be happy this time to talk with some locals about what lockdown was like and how the economy is like, etc. Love to have a ride around the Thames. Took the dinner cruise last time a couple of years ago.
Sitting on my *** in the waiting room waiting for a state inspection. Making the best of the time trying to catch up with customers who called or emailed while I was on vacation.
My wife watches it and has been great there during filming a couple of years ago. It�s a bit different than Hollywood, after a take, the actors come out and mingle with people, take a selfie with them, so she�s met most of them. She has a fairly popular Facebook page with locals from port Isaac for the purpose of connecting fans with local business to make it easier to get there and stay, get around.
Sooo... That's a big d'oh moment from me. I didn't realize that and guess I'll be putting the bleeder back on with the car in the air and wheel off... Good news is it should be fast now that I've used that motive bleeder once before.
Drove it for the first time since June. Had to bring it to the glass shop for a windscreen replacement to remedy my expired inspection sticker. Brought an OEM windshield seal for them to install.
It was certainly nice to be back behind the wheel 🙂
When I bought my first 996 (back when they were new), I brought my Recaro baby seat with me on the test drive to make sure it fit.
When I bought my second 996, 15ish years later, I brought the same son's largest guitar (hollow-bodied jazz guitar) and amp with me on the test drive to make sure it fit
Success in both cases
. It's a practical car, really.
Wife and I took a 100 mile ride yesterday. After I topped off with fuel the Miles to Empty counter in the computer was actually going up! I've never seen the counter increase in numbers. I started out with 387 miles to go after fill up and 20 miles later it said I had 407 miles to go. It was funny. On the way home the counter started going in the correct direction, down. Porsche's calculation is about as accurate as their water temp and oil pressure gauges. There's no way I am getting 400 miles out of a tank (nor do I want to, sounds like a boring drive).
Is that the thing to do? Bring a factory windshield seal with you? I ask because my car seems to be some kind of magnet for flying debris. I've had two rock impacts since I bought the car in April and that's in only about 1500 miles. That's more than the last 20 years on all my other cars combined. Anyway, I'll be looking for a windshield replacement soon.
Thanks!
Admitted defeat on the Alarm Woes that I have caused [Heavy Handedly performing a Centre Console Delete] and dropped at Specialist
Charles Ivey
not far from Home this morning..
They had some nice Metal in there I was allowed to photo [I asked of course]..
Used to be in Chelsea/Parsons Green, but moved to Tolworth some 4 years ago.. Into John Cooper's Building..!
Nut and Bolt resto on this one..
Customer's Rally Spec 911S..
Aubergine Emoji..
1 Owner 959.. Owned by Charles Ivey from new..!!
Nice. Your post inspired me to finally tackle my headlights, as they really looked their age and yellowed much worse than my photos show.
Rather than sanding, I used 'Chemical Guys headlight restore and protect' goo applied w/ a Milwaukee M12 polisher + 4" foam pad + ebay dual action head. Did two passes of about 60 seconds on each light and came away with 98% new lights. This apparently has a UV protectant in it so hopefully it lasts a while.
The headlight washer covers and the rubber seals around the housings broke during disassembly and will be added to my todo list.
Fantastic Photos..! The Building has subsequently been Listed by British Heritage, so its future is safe from Development etc. as it had been earmarked for Apartments..
They fixed my 996 anyways, at which I was more relived than I realised.. All Electrics working, and no Alarm woes, and all for 2 Hours of Labour and a coupla Fuses.. Happy Me..
I've got a seat coming in and I doubt there is a base in the package as it wasn't in the listing. I just need a seat base to make this work, correct?
https://www.ogracing.com/products/pl...yABEgJLW_D_BwE
Nice job!
My washer nozzles were broken too. Initially I silicone glued the chrome covers on the headlights but then felt bad about that (although it looked fine) and ordered two new ones.
Cost me 145 bucks for the pair @ Suncoast but hey, it helps my OCD lol
(Part numbers: 996-628-143-00 and 996-628-144-00)
Correct.
I had a set of Planted seat mounts that I ended up selling to someone when I installed their aftermarket seats because they had failed to get some.
They worked perfectly.
I�ll definitely get another set if/when I install new seats in my car.
This was a couple weeks back, but what the hey�.Was at the Hi-Ho Hotel in Fairfield. Lots of hot rides rolled though. Surprisingly people took notice of my 996 C4S cab. Perhaps because of the PCCM+ or perhaps because you just don�t see a lot of older and clean 996s around these parts. Way too many 991.2 or 992 turbo/GTS/GT3s running around town in hedge fund land.
Pics below:
Got my ride all cleaned up and ready to go
Sweet M-powered old school 3
ACR extreme
Some maclarens
Still love the murcielagos
Future classic
Actual classic
Track beast
We drove down to Port Stanley for lunch, but the inn we wanted to eat at had quite a lineup, so we left the Porsche there and walked down to the beach where a restaurant had a large patio. No sooner did we get there but the skies opened and biblical rain fell for the next hour. We eventually got to eat, but the roads back from the beach were flooded. We saw a few cars get through, but there�s no way the Porsche would have. A lucky break.
^^^^^ What he said. Only been to Salt Lick once on a visit to Austin, but it redefined everything I knew about BBQ from anywhere else. The friend we were visiting in Austin said there are a few BBQ places in the area that are even better than Salt Lick, but he wanted us to have the Salt Lick experience. The atmosphere with the tent and live music is a great complement to the food. BBQ is just a whole 'nother level in Texas, I've come to accept that now
.
That is actually a "fortified" 2002, circa 1973
PS
: Salt Lick (<- testing the theory that if you simply mention "Salt Lick" in a thread, people will like it
)
Well said! Even though you're from Jersey...
Seriously, you've made honorary Texas citizenship by saying, "BBQ is just a whole 'nother level in Texas, I've come to accept that now
"!!!
Loved driving out to Salt Lick when we lived in Austin. But, as others have said, there are a number of great BBQ restaurants there. Same for New Braunfels for German food and Octoberfest, Marble Falls for the Blue Bonnet Cafe (the back way). So many great places to drive and eat around there.
You forgot some awesome things about Salt lick, it�s surrounded by vineyards. The original one is in driftwood. It is BYOB, you can take your pet. We spent the week in Austin for my birthday in April, bunch of good BBQ
Joints and breweries.
I made ribs today.
An Austin brewery, you have to try the Electric ⚡️ Jellyfish IPA
One of the pits at saltlick
Wife, dog 🐶, me at patio at Salt lick.
My 18 year old chihuahua rat terrier doesn�t have any teeth but she loves BBQ And we took her to Salt Lick.
Visited my Folks for the Weekend and when, on Friday Evening, my Mum asked me to go to the Supermarket and get some Bread, I thought I'd take a slight detour for a Photo Op..
Spent two hours vacuuming and picking all the black foam from the vents and out of the inside of the car since the apocalypse seems to have subsided a bit for now. That stuff really gets around.
I replaced the frunk lock actuator. Last week, I unplugged the actuator, at the left front corner of the frunk, and used a test light to see that the switch and wiring were okay, so ordered an actuator. New one easily installed and all's good again.
Soon after I bought this '01 C2 cab 18 months ago, I removed the front bumper to clean out the radiators and condensors, and I rerouted the frunk release cable to the toe hook hole. Now, when the fruck release didn't work, I was really glad I could just pop the tow plug out and pull the cable! If you haven't yet rerouted your cable, do it now. Next, I've got to do a similar cable rerouting on the engine cover cable.
Yuck! This one looks really serious. I'll consider myself lucky at only needing to straighten the license plate when this has happened to me. Mostly take my Prius to town now. Good luck with a quality fix.
My mechanic was at the house yesterday, coolant leak fixed. I took it out for coffee and groceries. Supersonic twice 120, 135. Now drinking beer at happy place with my 18 soon to be 19 year old chihuahua rat terrier high on CBD oil. Life is good.
Trying to get her to love ❤️ Michelob Ultra.
As we walked around London a few weeks back, I wondered if that was a problem. Around here I see cars with rubber pads for that, though I can't see how you'd adapt it to one of our cars. We thought about renting a car and driving from London to Port Isaac, took the train instead which was probably better for the safety of those around me... Those roads are narrow and with people on bicycles too.
my wife always ask me why I double Park all the cars I drive out there in left field with no cars around. This is to the point that sometimes I have to drop her in the front of the store , Restaurant, bar etc. In addition that I get my steps, I also protect my cars. Now on her Mercedes I�m always buffing stuff, etc she parks on whatever available spot. And some people have some POS cars and they don�t give a sht. I learned this years ago and I�m specially careful with rental cars.
I�m parking a mile away from the entrance. Remember I live in Texas
everything here is big or huge including parking lots. A bunch of times I get a corner parking so they can�t park a car on one side next to me. I learned that because a long time ago I�ll say 92, I was traveling on business and I was with coworkers at a late night bar.
someone more than likely drunk
hit the side of the rental car. I was lucky because I was driving my coworkers and one of them noticed it right away. Unfortunately there were no security cameras at the place. Bring it back to 2019 on my 2,300 mile brand new f 150. Went to a Hispanic supermarket to get fresh marinated skirt steak for fajitas and freshly made tortillas came out and some swipe the front door and front fender on my truck. $6,000 settlement from my insurance. Anyway luck was on my side. Car max offered me $2,500 less than what I pd for the truck. So I took it to the Ford dealer got same truck brand new at a $500 discount, and since I showed them my car max guarantee offer they matched it. I had to pay the tax difference, anyway after everything was said and done I came up ahead $3,200 with a zero mile truck.
Received it back from Georgia sojourn. Took it out for the first heat cycle.
As Jake says in the coming home letter, everything is different about the car. New sounds, new feel. Clutch seems heavier, alot of new low end grunt, engine spins up super fast, really nice growl.
Now to break-in! Heat cycles for 1500 miles. If I do 2 heat cycles a day at 50 miles each, I'll be done in 15 days.
3.8L Stage1, 82mm throttle body, IPD plenum, UAOS, CTS radiators.
Thanks to the Flat Six Innovation crew! The project moved without a hiccup. All the decisions were made up front so things could move automatically, and it did! Excellent work!
Bored after I got done with work, I decided to poke around the car a little. I already detailed yesterday, and it looks great. So I start looking around in the trunk, I already knew there was an aftermarket amp and head unit when I got the car. But then I notice these fake covers that someone made, then I see these crazy looking contraptions underneath one of the makeshift covers?, then I notice there are Sheetrock screws holding things together, one of them screwed into one of the cross bars (I�m not sure exactly what it is?), and I notice an auxiliary battery and ginormous wiring and harnesses, in line fuses, etc. worst, is they use spray foam insulation to seal holes around wiring
Nicely fit makeshift cover for amp
Another nicely fit cover
Covers
What exactly are these? I mean I don�t know much about audio but these look to be audiophile-type stuff?
Aux. battery with 100amp in line fuse. Monster wiring.
Amp removed.
Drilled into this bar here.
What exactly is this bar called?
The same spray foam I use to insulation around doors and windows
More spray foam - plus some nice rats nests residue.
What�s up with this mess of silicone? If it�s supposed to be there I can only gather it�s to stop the battery from rattling around?
EDIT: not sure how I could have ever missed it. There is a dual sub box behind rear seats!
Can�t believe I had no idea.
I took all that crap out. I ditched the head unit, the amp, the subwoofer box, the aux. battery, the in line fuse, all the wiring. Still gotta clean up all that spray foam. Now gonna order a storage tray to take the place of head unit, and do a GT3 Console Delete.
I probably dropped 50 lbs. maybe more removing all that. I�m gonna weigh everything tomorrow.
Good for you! I would break out into hives at finding spray foam and drywall screws. Please post pics when you get it all cleaned up! That will be so satisfying.
BTW, the BATCAP isn't a battery, it's a capacitor. People use them on high power audio systems to buffer the power draw from the battery. But 'audio' capacitors are ridiculously overpriced for what they are.
Good luck!
dude you have a bunch of amps, and sound power. Someone spend a huge amount of money on that. Is that the only speaker set you have in addition to factory seems like amps are over kill. I would take it to sound specialist and sell some of that.
Yes I am very annoyed, at myself and PPI shop, because PPI should've picked all this stuff up. Should have seen the spray foam, the rats nests, all that extra crap. The wiring, etc. Makes me nervous about what else was missed.
It is all out now. I gotta do some more clean up under there but I got rid of all that weight. My wife in insisting on having a radio, but I'm not so sure yet. I like the whole "radio delete" + gt3 console delete idea. Just feels die hard to me.
I am definitely going to look into what its worth, but it is old stuff I think. And yes, I still have all the speakers in the car and the wiring. So if I do decide to get a new radio setup I'm not redoing all that as well.
I changed out all four sway bar drop links and felt like I was crack mechanic...then I saw the engine swap post on this same page and now I think I'm just a butt-crack mechanic...
I did figure out the cold start crappy idle problem I had...it was the oil filler hose had developed a split in the corrugated tube portion. A little research shows that me and around thirty thousand other 996 owners have had the same problem. I did see that changing out the filler tube can be a real PIA so I went with black tape instead. But I did a really, really good job of black taping it...goes back to the "butt-crack" mechanic analogy. Anyway, all's well now with the idle stutter and the fresh drop links gave the car a much more planted ride, especially when cornering. Here's a pic from the next day after giving her a bath, I'm just a proud 996 parent.
Im sure deep down u know this but fix it correctly by replacing it. Even a small vac leak creates fuel trim issues that lead to much worse. Suck it up and be a real mechanic or lake it to one. It wil make u feel better, at least your subconcious will feel better.
This guy is right... I was in the same boat, did the same thing (I'm a duct tape black belt) - car ran OK but when I finally replaced it the right way, I sealed up both ends of the bad one and.... it was not air tight.
It's kind of a PIA to replace, but not too bad - if you work on these cars you get used to doing stuff by feel, that's what you'll end up doing here for the 2 bolts that secure the fill tube to the case.
Removing the alternator can be kind of adventure or really easy depending on if the sleeve in the alternator fights you. The first time I did it, it came right out - the 2nd time, not so much.
If I had mad skills with the wrench.... I know since this isn't a daily driver, that, things are old and brittle, I should have patience, a thought process for breaking something that might make the car not driveable, adequate lighting, all the parts on hand, and time to complete the job (and that it doesn't need to be done right now). Did I mention patience. The oil filler wasn't that bad. Everyone has different levels of skill and desire to work on these.
Got 2 gallons of 104 race fuel. That be the Porsche drink, got me a case of Miller lite and an IPA variety pack from saint Arnold
Both the Porsche and I drinking to day.
on sale of course. Can wait till I take it supersonic to the cars and coffee on Saturday to see what the 50 percent race fuel does. Grilling blue cheese bacon burgers, and cream cheese bacon wrap jalape�os latter on, life is good.
Compared to what most of you have done this is pretty basic, BUT IT WAS DRIVING THE LIVING $#!+ OUT OF ME.
I recently acquired a 996 for my wife, I’ve got the ‘75 3.0 Targa.
As expected, both sun visor lids were broken.
Broken sun visor lid
Using a 3D printer I made some new lids.
Broken lid on the left, 3D printed on the right.
The 3D printed lid had the right proportions, but I couldn’t install the damn thing.
PLAN B
I decided to see what I could do in terms of creating a repair on the broken lid. I had seen a video on YouTube and watched a guy put screws through both ends of the visor and created the hinge that way. He then use magnets to keep the lid in place when it was down and did not want the sun visor lid open. By retaining one of the original hinges I had the advantage of keeping one of the originally designed hinge stops. Thereby eliminating the need for magnets.
I decided what I would do was create a new receptacle on the broken hinge side where I would glue a small plastic cylinder to the visor lid and then be able to use that as a point in which to have a complete hinge.
First I got a razor blade and cut off the broken hinge attachment area. I made it flat and smooth. I also cut 3 mm of the fabric on the inside if the visor (from hinge to hinge) to permit exposed plastic to glue to the plastic tube I planned on using as the hinge.
Broken hinge
Smooth, ready for new hinge
I experimented with several different pieces of plastic that I could use as the hinge, and I determined the longer the hinge the better, because it would have more surface area to be glued onto and be stronger. I ended up cutting a piece out of an ink pen.
2 inches from the inside of a disposable ink pen plastic epoxy glued to the broken lid.
I then took a small drill and drilled a hole at the area on the sunvisor lid where the hinge point was on the sunvisor. In order to do this I removed the sunvisor out of the vehicle. Though it could be done while still in the car, the thought of sharp things around my leather interior made me nervous so I did it on a workbench.
New hinge point
Once the epoxy was dry, I then replaced the sun visor lid, and inserted a small cotter pin to keep it in place.
Hinge in place with cotter pin installed
The next thing to do was replace the repaired sunvisor.
Finished product.
I may buy the black stickers on eBay that will cover up the scratched Airbag warning sticker.
yeah i been using Techron religiously for years. I bought some new gas spouts but they are cheaply made and leak a bit. Anyway that old has can is from 1988 I had a modified scirocco 16v while in college and every so often I�ll put a little race fuel on it. The one with the duck tape is from 06 when I had the HPA twin turbo R32. Anyway they don�t built stuff like they used to. Beers are the new duck tape they fix every problem. Cheers 🥃 🥂 is five o clock somewhere in the world right now.
Break fast this morning with a cold 🥶 glass of milk and my vitamins and supplements.
Took me 3 different sessions but the engine is out. Another bore scoring victim. About 75K miles on the engine. Starting my 4.0 rebuild. I think I may start a thread.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/pxl_20210901_103651176_60275303d3377813ec9fc560f992a96063d24423.jpg
Took my new-to-me 996.1 to my buddy Gene�s house who, as an EE, former F18 avionics tech and most importantly former Circuit City stereo installer was able to patiently and methodically wade through 20 years of aftermarket amateur spaghetti to get all six of my speakers working.
price? He took his step daughter for a spin.
Took it on a 540 mile drive. I've had the car 2 years and this is my first drive longer than about 90 miles. I was nervous, for no reason, but it ran great and was alot of fun. I'm enjoying the car even more now that we've finally been able to spend quality time on the road together.
Drove a 2009 Carrera S that is currently up for auction on bat, blue, awesome car. Then get together at formula garage in Houston. Drove my car 🚙 supersonic, that 104 race fuel does makes a difference. No issues with coolant, my guy fixed the leak. Awesome Saturday.
awesome beautiful car. It�s better in person than in photos. Already at $60k, not sure if I can get it, but I definitely want a car like this. 09 Carrera s.
We�ll, really yesterday, but I replaced the rear shocks on my 03 C4S with Biltstein B4.. Judging by the part numbers on these, I suspect these were the original ones on the car. After 144k miles, they are shot. Probably have been for a while. Not sure how the PO endured this, but just doing the rears has completely transformed the character of the car. I am no longer scared to go over small bumps; I no longer get the jarring when I do hit a bump.
After telling myself for a couple months that all my other work (shock mounts, control arms, trailing arms, etc) was enough to make the car ride better, I now see that I should have done the shocks as well. Now I have the front shocks on order as well.
Sounds great.
Nice weather and pretty good turnout today.
It�s hilarious how the Corvettes always park in the same area.
2 weeks from now I�m going to get there early and steal one of those parking spots.
Over the past several days:
Replaced F & R suspension mounts
Replaced F & R springs and struts
Replaced F strut bearings
Replaced R coffin arms
Replaced F & R pads and rotors
Replaced DS reflector
Replaced L & R engine mounts
New wheels and tires
Inspection completed
Alignment
Washed & vacuumed
Conditioned & cleaned leather
Replaced key fob/s batteries
Fitted color matched key fob covers
Drove it and took a few pics.
Contacted Votgland about the wrong lowering springs they sent me. Currently awaiting resolution, so I can undo nearly everything above, to fit the correct springs, so the car doest look so 4x4 🙄
Also might fit the standard orange side markers.
Hope the right springs drop it to the ground, going to have a sick stance - you turned the rear up to 11 with whatever that wheel spec is... I dig.
The donk look it has going on right now is hilarious.
Thanks. The springs are very bothersome at the moment. The car looks like someone just put their size 13 right in the grundle. It's embarrassing.
The wheel specs are 18x11 et 50 (rear) with 285/30 Sumitomos
Yeah - the spec is aggressive but the slightly stretched tire should help - may need to play with camber a little or do a little clearance work but it would be worth it for the look IMO.
BTW - I like better with the center caps off and be sure to post some pics when you get the RH sorted. Good luck brother.
I have hr springs with konis, the wheels are factory 408s, I love the way it rides. Yes tires are 285 30 zr 18 michellins n2. Jason I wish you where closer
, smoking a 7 lb brisket point , with a bunch of IPAs and Miller lites. Happy 😆 holiday weekend.
Yes I injected the brisket with 50/50 mix beef broth and Tony cacheres creole butter. That creo butter is the best, works great on chickens, Turkeys, pork butts.
Finally finished after a month and a half. I work to much and had surgery, ugh.
New front wheel bearings, right was bad
New CV boots, all four. Left outer was torn.
New front diff seals, they were weeping.
New front control arms.
New inner and outer tie rods.
New rear upper control arms and tuning fork arms.
New sway bar bushings and links.
New rear brake disc and pads.
New engine mounts.
New trans mount.
New Bilsein PSS10s
Car is now at GT2 height, 118mm front, 138mm rear. I did a basic front toe align, I now need to get it to a good alignment shop. The PSS10s ride really well, much better than my 18 year old shocks and springs did. Much more compliant over poor pavement. Sorry for the poor picture, looked better on that small phone screen. Took the wife out to dinner last night, first time in the car in a while. She commented on the ride being less jarring and abrupt, she really liked it.
Swapped out the ugly [IMO] DesignTek blue Induction Pipe for a nice black Spyder Performance number..
Also painted the Plug with Stove & BBQ Paint to keep it looking nice and Stock in the Bay..
The DesignTek wasn't an exact fit either; there was a Sleeve used to extend the Pipe into the GT3 Throttle Body, which looked a little untidy..
Light bit of sanding to remove the shiny finish on the Aluminium piece, clean,spray, then wait 24H..
Will clean up the other parts as necessary.. But otherwise happy with the Stock "Look"..
I finally replaced the battery that was in my car when I bought it - and was told it was dead by the auto parts store I brought it to. Seven years from a dead battery isn�t too bad! I also attached a new/old seat belt buckle under my drivers seat to get rid of my airbag light... Definitely worth the $54 from Specialized German (ebay store - I�ve gotten plenty of used parts from these guys, and they never disappoint).
Went to the Cars and Coffee show by the coast in NH on Sunday. My friend has a 99 996 so we had a Gen 1 and a Gen 2 996 roll into the show together. We saw a lot of great cars new and old. A brand new 991 as well as a GT2RS was there. There were a couple of C8 Corvettes, a new Aston Martin, and many other cars way above my pay grade there too.
My car was running great. No drips, no leaks, no funky readings on any gauge. It was a blast to drive. I still have to fix that annoying central lock warning code, but I isolated it to the rear lid lock. I'm not sure if just replacing the microswitch will fix it or if I need a new latch mechanism. On many occasions the rear lid lock won't catch and on other occasions it shuts just fine. I can ignore that problem for a while.
Did I mention the car ran great and was a blast to drive? :-)
Collecting break in miles. At 300 miles now. Engine sings, power is instantly available. Butt dyno never had it so good!
This is one of our parched valleys. 101degrees today. Some smoke still hanging around, a lot better than last week though. Mt. Diablo off in the background.
If the rear lid (engine cover?) is throwing a code, it�s most likely the micro switch. It�s fairly simple to adjust the rear latch... jus make sure you don�t set it too low, as the lid won�t pop open (ask me how I know...😏
. I had to lower my engine a little bit, in order to get it opened...
I recently picked up a set of MY02 lightweight Carrera II wheels from another Rennlister and had the nearly new tires from my original turbo twists swapped over. Now I have to figure out what color to have my wheel guy paint them. I'm leaning either stain black or possibly some sort of bronze-ish.
Took it to about 5,000rpm a couple times on the long drive to Starbucks.
Then stopped by the dealer to order a couple things. Center console hinge repair kit and the hinges for the roof rail flaps. Mine have collapsed.
I just got those same wheels. I don�t have your patience. I put them right on the car (they definitely need to be refinished but that is another story for another day). Even with some rash I like them waaaaay better than the twists
Oh hell ya. I think I've been roped into a track day sometime this fall. Should be pretty exciting with old tires and brakes
i need to do 20 years worth of maintenance so I'm not terrified of throwing away 35k
<wreckless statement warning on> Doesn't the ECU set the redline higher and higher based on your driving style? <wreckless statement warning off>
(sorry, I had to write it)(yes, the answer is absolutely not, DO NOT exceed the redline, do not add counts to your OverRev counter)
I was thinking of going Black on my 996.2 GT3 Wheels for my 996.1 C4, but more recently been considering having them Aurum Gold, like the 997.2 GT2/3 etc. At the moment, they are Silver..
That car looks AWESOME!!!! I share your enthusiasm and if my car had a factory Aero kit, I too would want contrasting wheel colors too. Without the aero upgrades, I feel that silver is the way to go.
Theres an understated elegance that goes with a non-aero early 996 that I am crazy about lol
Isn't the rev limiter in place to LIMIT or STOP you from going past the allowed revs? Hitting the rev limiter will simply add to the range 1 counter (ignitions) simply saying you had a good day behind the wheel and hit the red line. No damage there. Range 2 is the mechanical over rev which is the bad one. Only way to get to range 2 over rev is a money shift causing the engine to mechanically hit higher RPM than what the electronic rev limiter allows for. For example, wanting to go 2nd to 3rd but putting it in 1st at higher rpms.
Yes, my comment was totally out of line and was trying to make fun of how sometimes we don't know things. It's one of those statements you know you shouldn't write down.
Agreed. The redline is hard set based on mechanical limits. DO NOT go past it. I wouldn't say Range 1 counts are no damage. If you looked at 2 cars, one with 0 Range 1's and one with 5000 Range 1's that are otherwise apparently equivalent, which would you buy? No question I would buy the 0 range 1 car.
Paul - I guess that means You won’t be buying the ice cream wagon anytime soon haha.
I wonder what the world record for range 1 over rev’s is ? You think they would put me in the book 🤩
Don't all ice cream trucks have bore scoring?
I know Range 1 all too well. I'm responsible for 5000 of mine... It's totally crazy how easily these engines pull all the way up.
I may have missed it, but what is the color of the car? (makes all the difference in the world for having an opinion wheel color (at least to me))
I generally prefer silver wheels over everything. A lot of colors look
great
on the wheels themselves, but then I feel that those same great-looking non-silver wheels subconsciously distract you from fully appreciating the beauty of the 911 body and shape when they on the car. Of course, you can sometimes use that strategically -- if you have a Pontiac Aztek, the power move is to go with gold neon wheels
.
Question
: Have you measured how much lighter the Carrera II wheels are versus the turbo twists, and can you feel any difference when driving?
That Eclipse amp and MB Quart component sets were some of the best around when they were new. They're still sought after by today's standards. I would be excited if my car had that stuff in it. Looks like that hole in the bar was most likely used as a grounding point. Not really a big deal. I would leave that stuff in if it still works. IMO, the driving feel of a 911 paired with good music makes for an experience that's hard to beat.
It�s seal gray with yellow calipers. Arum gold was another color I had considered but I think I�ve ruled it out. This wheel set won�t be my main wheels, I normally run 19� BBS LMs but those are going to get refinished this winter and new rubber next season. I�m between two awesome color combos for those so I�ve still got time to figure that out.
The weight is substantial... 4.4lbs lighter per front and 6.6lbs per rear. Once I get them on and go for a spirited drive I�ll report back on feel.
@kingroon
following to see what color you go with for Arctic Silver car.
@what did you do thread. Finally took it to my buddy to get the rear speakers fixed but still can barely hear over the open exhaust, so that�s next.
yesterday went to Luftgekult (Indianapolis this year) of course water cooled cars have the same status of a Honda there but what a great show. So many old race cars, Singers, built back-dated 964s & G-bodies, barn finds and, of course, preserved originals.
Remember, nearly all these cars were the unloved, bottom-of-the-market undesirables until enthusiasts like the guys on this list got their hands dirty modifying, rebuilding & improving. It�s a great time to own a 996!
Went to the show a blast. The 40th anniversary buddy, won the 996, 997 1st prize. I was in Disneyland today, like a kid with Christmas toys, but I couldn�t play with them. We found lottery prizes. If we win tonight, wife gets 2021 Cayenne Turbo ($165k), I get Miami blue gt3 6 spd, my big fat butt is tight there, I got into the cockpit and set my driving position, I need regular seats like in my 996.
40th anniversary won the 996 & 997 first prize.
I got in the car and shifted gears, need regular seats to fit comfortably, only $195k. Dreaming about shifting at 9,000 rpms.!
Wife wants this one.
Yes Carrera Gt
911 r same owner, he also owns a widow maker 930 and he drives them to cars and coffee.
Got some groceries, coffee for the wife. Yes I went supersonic 140. Temp looks great after hard driving.
When I was loading the groceries some lady asked me if I had car trouble and needed a jump,nice Texas people.
The radiators were chemically cleaned, I�m running 33 percent antifreeze coolant.
Switched from Wevo semi-solid to new OE engine mounts. Gonna do a couple of test runs to see if my top end rpm mass airflow and timing numbers improve or remain the same. I�d like to gather a bit of data to assess if knock sensors could be retarding timing towards redline with the semi-solids. I was momentarily concerned when I took the car out. I thought I�d botched the mount install somehow. But I did a quick mental review of all the steps and I didn�t mess anything up. The OE mounts are noticeably more �compliant� and I could feel the additional movement in the back after driving the Wevos for 15,000 miles.
Be ready to do some reforming of the body square hole the motor mount pin sits in. One of mine had a mangled side from some gorilla pounding the Wevo mount into place.
For what its worth, I keep getting a MAF code and my car has RSS Engine Mounts.
I remember hearing that Jake Raby only uses factory style mounts because with semi-solid mounts, the knock sensors go nuts.
I never used the radio once since I got it, almost 2k miles ago. Partly because the TUBI exhaust sound is too good to pass up. Partly because I reference the note of the exhaust when downshifting and matching Revs. Partly because I�m paranoid and listening for unwanted noises/engine exploding. And partly because the TUBI exhaust sounds so damn good�did I say that already?
However my wife definitely wants a radio in the car, so I did leave all of the speakers and wiring. If I just install a new single din head unit with Bluetooth, do I even need an amp? Don�t need anything crazy. Wife just wants to be able to listen to music if we take my car to dinner.
EDIT
: I see from a later post that Continental radio below is a different model than the one mostly discussed or RL (doesn't look bad though, reviews are mixed)
Is there a particular place to get it? I see that there is one listed on Amazon for only $200 -- thought it was a lot more expensive than that, or maybe that's a different model.
To me it looks mostly correct except for the backlit LCD panel (versus orange LED of the numbers/letters only) -- that part of it seems a little too retro for the 996 (pic from Amazon -
Amazon
Amazon
Bergvill sells them from denmark or somewhere close. Good company to deal with. I had a kenwood with high line inputs so i used an amp.
dont forget to buy their "porsche" sticker for the face.
https://www.bergvillfx.com/categories/radio-accessories
Here is the sticker but i dont see my radio on their site amazon has some too.
That's the unit I bought. It's actually much closer to the correct colors than the Amazon pic shows. I bought this model because I thought I might want to play a CD sometime but now after a few years in, that hasn't happened
. It
does
make it seem more period correct though.
I bought this harness to make it plug and play in my '99 with hi-fi option 490.
https://www.bergvillfx.com/products/...96boxster-m490
My pic is also deceiving, it's a closer match than it looks here.
That looks great. I agree the CD player version does look more period correct to my eyes than then one without CD player. I'm nitpicking here, but the part I don't love (that looks like older tech than the 996) is that the whole screen is backlit orange with text/numbers in black, where the 996 era would more likely have a black background with just the letters/numbers orange (LED-like in other words like the climate control temperature above the radio). That orange seems to be a good match.
Still seems like a very good choice and reasonably priced. I wonder how it compares functionally/feature-wise to the other Continental radio. I guess we should use model numbers to distinguish.
Exactly, the last of the air-cooled is exactly where the entire LCD display being backlit is a fit for me. The 996 is such a modern makeover of the prior, that the LED-like display seems more appropriate, but obviously we can only choose from the radio options that are available (so I'm nitpicking).
It's been a while since I've seen it (so I might be wrong), but I
think
this is what the original radio in my 2000 996 looked like:
If you are careful enough, you can remove the polarizer and flip it over to invert the letters/backlight on most all monochrome LCD's. I have done this on some - not the Continental radio.
Wow -- I never thought of that. Make perfect sense, the LCD is really just a selective blocker/ebnabler of light, so it's just changing what you block.
My car is 01/98. I just noticed a saved code when I scanned it yesterday. Cleared it and can report back after I get a couple more miles on it. I have the stock tune.
My family got me new (used) litronics for my birthday tomorrow. Today I swapped them into the car and verified everything works. I'm still in awe of how easy it really was.
You Tube
very cute! my large pit bull/terrier won't probably stand for that. i took him on a ride and he loved every bit of it but he was all over the place. front, back, front, back. the center arm rest all scratched up lol. he also loves to hang out mid torso over the window close to falling out! i smartened up and kept the window half close so he doesn't scratch up the door paint haha.
to think i am contemplating in taking him with me from Ohio to Texas to visit a friend.
very nice interior btw!!
I ordered and received a Suncoast Porsche VIN Decoder report.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/VIN.html
I will be installing painted headlight covers and painted bumperettes but need the paint code from my custom ordered car. The option sticker under the hood lists the color as L999 Paint to Sample.
This report has 4x the options listed on the hood option sticker in addition to the build date, interior color code, cab top color code, seat material, carpet color code, DME serial number, transmission serial number, engine serial number, and even the invoice date. Well worth the $10.00 price tag.
Good to know. My 2000 996 C2 doesn't have the plate with the build date on it so this will be nice to have. I suspect there was body work done on the driver's door...
I like them enough that I have a matching rear deck mat on order. It might be overkill - we'll see.
The trick is to find them in an exact color match. I'm not quite there yet.
In correcting the positioning of my Carrera emblem, I found that my existing (now old) emblem is... non-standard. I ordered the correct emblem for lower positioning, and went with 50mm from the bottom of the lid to the bottom of the emblem, as seems to be standard for aerokit installs.
Be careful when ordering a replacement 996 emblem. There's a different emblem for upper positioning on the standard decklid.
(I recently re-attached my wing's Gurney flap with adhesive (per the original tech bulletin instructions) vs. adhesive tape, and I'm still working on touching up the paint as a result. I may get the wing re-sprayed in the spring, as I'm not sure my DIY skills are up to the task as this point.)
The photo doesn't show it, but I spent an inordinate amount of time positioning this. Lots of measurements, and lots of masking tape to get things lined up prior to application.
Correct, new emblem on top. Old, incorrect emblem on bottom.
I'm curious about the Cerium Oxide glass polishing as well. I just ordered some (
Amazon
Amazon
), so will be able to report back eventually, but it will probably be a while before I have time to use it.
This weekend I was minding my own business, enjoying the beautiful weather while instructing at a PCA track event when a friend pulls up his 99 911. He was hoping to sell it to a club member, and I couldn�t resist adding a Guards Red one to the collection.
Took mine up to the dealer to check on some parts. Coming from Germany 😑
When I left, there were two sales guy next to my car and they asked what year. I said 99 and one said wow I thought it was an 05. "So it's a...99...6?"
Yep
There's always a segment of Porsche owners that are absolute snobs and have to have a model that they pick on as inferior. All the time I owned my 996, it has been the car that Porsche-snobs attack. I always loved my car and always responded that it's still a 911 and kicks the butt of every 911 that came before it. I now find it hilarious (as always happens) that opinion has turned around and what was once hated is now becoming loved. Ask the 906, 914 and 924 how they feel... what was once hated is now loved and valuable.
Take it one step further and replace those amber bulbs with a chrome amber bulbs. You won’t have the egg yolk appearance and just cleans the look up that much more. I just replaced my rear turn signals 5 minutes ago with chrome amber bulbs to completely get rid of all the amber on my car.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1094x1944/signal_2021_09_25_093410_2831bae72dfdaa11c20676ca9a6b6d5694ed2fd8.jpg
My son is car watching my 2003 Carrera Convertible while I�m overseas. I�ve been purchasing parts for maintenance and some for fun parts before I ship her overseas. I intend on having the following work done at a performance shop in Atlanta and then have an ECU flash done. On my things to do list is:
1. Change oil and all fluids with Porsche recommended fluids.
2. Engine Mounts � replacing the engine mounts with Porsche issued mounts after reading the posts about aftermarket engine mounts and J. Raby's comments.
3. Transmission Mount � replacing the transmission mount with a Porsche original equipment mount. I believe it�s the original mount in the car.
4. Manifold � replacing the el-cheapo brand eBay manifold (previous owner installed) with a Top Gear manifold to match the Top Gear 200 Cell Cats already on the car. I was gonna go full Top Gear to include the exhaust, but my research suggests that my factory exhaust with the Fister mod does me well enough. Oh yeah a salesperson from Fabs� said I definitely need their $2.K Maxflo exhaust to bring it all together.
5. IPD Competition & GT3 Throttle Body � I believed the hype
. For every it�s a worthless bolt-on post I�ve seen about these plenums and throttle bodies, I�ve seen just as many saying they are the cat�s meow. The guy from IPD said I
NEED
this, setup. My tuner also recommended it.
6. Secondary Air Injection Pump � I am having what I call the �sewing machine sound� on start-up that lasts a short while then disappears. Reading my beloved forum suggests that the SAI is defective. The prices are all over the map for this one. The majority of the parts that I have ordered came from either Pelican or ECS, but a forum member said he bought a SAI on eBay. I never considered eBay as a source. I couldn�t turn down the new SAI I purchased for $90.00.
7. 997 Airbox and filter � I found a used 997 airbox with a Porsche 3.6 stamp on eBay. I�ve read that it may provide better air flow, but all agree it looks so, so much better.
8. MAF � since I�m tinkering with air flow, I got a new MAF unit as well.
9. Fuel Injectors � these were a bear to source; most locations I searched were out of stock. I ended up getting the �white� injectors from Pelican. I believe the original injectors are in the car now.
10. Injection Coils and Plugs � the current setup is about five years old and were very inexpensive. Purchased genuine Porsche parts from Pelican. I don�t know if these were needed to be replaced but since easy access can be had as a result of the other work being done I thought it a good idea.
11. GT3 Shifter � shifters represent the wild, wild west . As I read what is available, it was clear from the postings � everyone has an opinion on which is the best or which one is wrong. I decided to go with the GT3 shifter.
12. ECU Flash � After all of the above, the same shop will perform a GT3 Performance Tune. What are my goals � just some spirited driving from time to time, better throttle response when needed and more aural stimulation would be great. I�m not looking for great horsepower gains. I will never track her. She will be a semi-daily driver. This is from the tuner�s website �
This tune is for the GT3 3.6L making fast Porsches faster is our Solomotorsports.com. With years of knowledge under our belts, our expert team of Porsche engineers will fine-tune your Porsche GT3 3.6L ECU resulting in higher performance gains across the board. Our Porsche ECU tune for the GT3 3.6L will grant your GT3 3.6L higher horsepower, better throttle response & overall legal drivability. We can even remove limits set by the factory unleashing your GT3 3.6L powerful hidden potential!
After the Tuning Shop -
13. Convertible Top � having both cylinders rebuilt and then taking it to the dealership for calibration. The last time I lowered the top (about a year ago), when I was raising it back up, it got stuck. It eventually closed correctly but it traumatized me, and I have haven�t lowered it since.
I want to make sure the cylinders and the microswitches are working as they should be.
14. Wrap � The last stateside event is getting the car wrapped. As a 2003, the paint is in varying degrees of distress. I want to go in a completely different direction by having the car wrapped in a 2018 Porsche 911 RSR inspired style. I�ve selected my color choices and I�m very excited about the possibilities. This is definitely in the category of �it�s not for me but it�s your car, do what you want to do� category. That being said, I�m sure all will not like the results but as said earlier, it is my car 😊.
15. Interior � I�m super excited about this part. I�ve made contact with a local upholstery shop here and told them what I want. The interior as I know it will be completely redone in leather with a color scheme that supports the exterior wrap. I checked out some of their previous work and watched them on some current projects � I�m thoroughly impressed. A tremendous amount of work they intend on doing and the price tag � just over $1K. The cost of labor here is non-existent. Again, in the category of �it�s your car��
16. Other � I�ve already did a suspension refresh with coilovers and a serious stereo upgrade that purist will not approve of
. Lighting � installed LEDs in the tail lights, HIDs in the headlights and a smoke color side marker that has the arrow flash when the turn signal indicator is activated.
As I�ve just completed the purchase of the parts, I will return the States to have the work done. Is there anything else maintenance-wise that you recommend I do before I ship it in November?
Lesson Learned:
a. The forum is a great source of information and entertainment.
b. Opinions take you all over the map. Sometimes it�s hard for a non-wrench turning enthusiast to make the right decisions.
c. Can you believe the vendor hype? The jury is still out on this one.
d. Prices � I tried to get Porsche Genuine Parts or Bosch. The range from generic parts to high end parts can vary greatly.
e. Lastly, I know it didn�t happen if pictures aren�t posted � pictures are coming upon completion.
Thanks for letting me be a member in this great community
.
Got my reflectors for the new litronics in. Took a little sanding to get them to fit right, which I didn't expect. But with the clear marker lights and (not pictured) fresh wash it looks like a new car!
Correct me if I'm wrong but this sounds like a tune FOR GT3's! Which I'm sure you know is completely different than your car and will not work, right? By the way, it sounds like it will be a well sorted car when your done. Good luck with the project.
Not too long ago the snobs picked on mid year 2.7 911s (1974-77).
With prices of the “middies” hovering between $30,000- $50,000 (and some examples even higher) I guess they have moved on, especially because the 1974 and 1975 “middies” are smog exempt in California and are becoming more desirable because of that fact.
What’s the expression “ Haters going to hate.”
A mate came over to check out the 996, and was quite surprised at how much he liked it.. So I took him out for a blat [during a "Fuel Crisis", how irresponsible..!] and then he loved it..
as in single �trac�?
using it to ride around paddock/track?
or taking car on track?
still haven�t put my bike on the Targa. My �85 Carrera I did all the time. Now I just use the Raptor for transport 😎
If I took it on the track with a bike on top at least I would not be thinking about oil pressure as a primary concern. I don't know how well the rack I have would work on the targa (sea sucker). I realized if I did not put a rack on it I'd never drive it, makes the entire day of biking even more enjoyable.I think it's been about 3 months since it's moved.
Went to MSR in Angleton Texas. Had a blast plus it was for a good cause. We the Porsche club lone star region raised the most money, so that�s the first place trophy. Had a cool 😎 time talking to Hector the President and met two new guys. Fajitas and margaritas were catered. Got to drive the car for 160 miles and it ran great. Yes max was 140.
Shirt from the event
Fajitas and margaritas for lunch
Some serious lambos out there.
Got two extra margaritas at the end, my favorite price free.
My car looking at somebody�s track garage, Mazda�s.
Hector the prez and Luis new friend
2021 Turbo S, hector and Luis with the trophy. This car was ordered with all the options so about $330k, owner owns a great body shop Porsche certified.
Ferrari
What can I say.
SVJ with Gitanni exhaust sick.
2021 lambo v10 only $285k owner was super cool. This is actual paint not a wrap.
66 jag.
McLarens.
Some of the cars.
Awesome GT3.
More cars , a speedster 2021 from one of the staff at the club, yes it�s a manual.
De Jeeper, I can't figure this one out either. Why do folks go to tuners that know nothing about tuning a 996. In fact, I can't stand the word "tuner" because it mainly a load of bull****. Maybe the guy does have a GT3. But if he has a 996 Carerra...WTF
Too many 996 owners are blindly watching the fast and furious, think it's real, and then go out and destroy their engine with a "tuner" . Folks, stop the freeking madness. Go with 996 experts that have experience that's tried and true.
Signed,
Concerned 996 Owner
Folks, let me lighten my rhetoric here and apologize to the 996 owner who is building out his 996. My comments were not directed at you but at the situation of "tuning" in general for the 996 Carerra. Your build looks great and I am cheering you on.
I caution everyone regarding "tuning" to only work with the firm's that have actual years of 996 software experience. We have had one too many posts recently with bad outcomes from software added to the 996.
Be careful. The 996 is an awesome car. Let's keep them all on the road.
I returned to Arizona from a Colorado drive to visit friends, including a 60K milestone, two high points and lots of fun twisty roads. I'm happy the '01 cab that I renovated did the 1,970 miles without a hiccup. My friend with a Mustang, who had the passenger seat up & down Pikes Peak, couldn't stop saying "Wow" on each corner.
Took it into the wild. Weekend escape to Ojai. This Air BnB was off the grid. About 2 miles down a dirt road off the nearest hwy. never seen my car so dirty but it handled the gravel/dirt like a champ.
Bash Hat - It was nice of 1 LOUDR to take you along on the road trip getaway. It even put a hammock out for you. So the car’s gonna take a nice tubby and sleep inside?
I had an amazing time on the Overcrest Rally in Utah - over 100 cars (mostly 911's) from all over the country.
Including me, there were two other 996 C4S's there - and one 996 GT3. Brook, who runs the @996RoadTrip instagram account was there - super nice guy... was cool to see his rig in person.
closed out the rally at the drive-in
Maybe I said this before, but I love your Aerokit. Would love to find one, but they really are a unicorn for the coupe unless you don't mind paying big dollars.
Dropped off my �03 C4S yesterday for installation of a new ims bearing from Jake & Co.
Dumont�s here in OKC is a certified installer for LN bearings. I feel fortunate to have them so close! Debbie, Matt, and Mike are the best!
More pics to come
Took it to school! Bought a second Diono and put one in my wife's vehicle as well. Really like the seating position and form factor while retaining the harness
Removed the Porsche side stripe now that the aero kit is on the car. The lines in profile look longer and flow better visually. Man, these wheels are just amazing looking! Weight, durability, simplicity, style. Coincidence that the Ferrari 360 and 996 wheels are so similar?
Now the attractive lines of the aero side skirts show better.
Is this where the wiring goes into the trans? When I changed my fluid two years ago it went into limp mode, had to tow it to the dealer and they said that they cleaned out trans fluid from where it connects to the trans. Seemed odd at the time but now it makes sense. But I think that big oil tube next to it must have been leaking, or must still be leaking.
Any ideas?
The plug and housing is much lower. it actually goes directly into the conductor plate which is just above the oil pan. This link is the part that leaks and needs replacement, it wicks fluid up the wire harness causing all sorts of problems.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tor-2035400053
Had a leak in the a/c condenser, it's up under the dash..I thought long and hard about doing this repair myself but my wife and my bad back talked me into taking it to the local shop.
Here's the old condenser, lots of green a/c oil all over it.
Had them redo the blend doors while they were in there, As it turned out, the foam was almost completely gone on both of them so definitely needed. Here's a door with new neoprene insulation on it.
This is what i avoided having to dismantle to get to the condenser. Not scary to you experienced guys.
Lots and lots of money changed hands, but with cold a/c and heat for the winter my wife is happy.
Hm, do you have a picture of the connector? I'll put the car up on my QuickJacks tomorrow and take a look. What does it take to replace it if I buy the connector?
Thanks for posting the pictures. I am considering tackling this job myself and the amount of dismantling gives me pause. Does anyone know if a genuine Porsche evaporator core can be purchased by itself (such as shown in the picture above) or is it only available as per of the $1500 assembly?
I have more pictures of the dismantling if you'd like me to PM them to you.
Its an aftermarket core that my indy sourced a while back for me, actually looks more efficient than the Porsche core. Honeycomb vs fins, i forget the mfg name but can ask him if you want. As far as i know Porsche doesn't sell just the evaporator, just the entire "box assembly". I paid something like $175 for the core a couple years ago..
Went to cars and coffee formula garage Houston, big turnout. Variety of cars. Formula garage is an air bnb. They have a bunch of nice cars, racing simulators, multiples. Met a few more people. Another member and I raced a GT3 in the simulator on some German track, pretty cool takes time to get use to, specially the super sensitive steering wheel. If you are ever staying over Houston try Formula garage. Shriv the owner is a car collector Porsche guy. GT2, GT3, speedster those are displayed in the garage. Anyway pay attention to the 4.0 engine from the GT2. Then dinner with my son at Outback. Awesome day plus drovd the car for 75 miles.
Good turnout at cars and coffee
Air cool individual stacks
1973 with 3.2 EfI engine
4.0 Gt3
Awesome blue on the gt4
Racing simulator
Speedster
Gt2.
Gt2 4.0 engine. Look at throttle plate on top of engine. Missing piece to the left, broke and messed up cil�nder number 6 on the 4.0.
Sitting side haze. Ipa. Texas Tech beat West Virginia in college football.
Prime rib at Outback, in my opinion better than at high class steakhouse good price. For me better yet because we get 50 percent discount because my son works there.
Well, really it was yesterday, but drove it down to Baltimore for Charm City CX race. Even with the bike on the back, got over 26mpg on the trip.
Beautiful day for a ride on both.
The link I had in the response is the part that gets changed out most often, it's the o-rings that go bad from heat I guess. It goes between the connector from the car with the wire to the transmission conductor plate. Here is a link of a guy changing it out, it's not a Porsche but a Mercedes. The Porsche connector is a little harder to get to, coolant hoses in the way. Hope this makes some sense. FYI love my QuickJacks.
You Tube
Replaced brake pads all around. The last brake pad wear sensor on the last caliper I broke one of the small plastic tabs. Was so annoyed. Not the end of the world though, I will replace it out when I have a moment soon.
I put Textar pads on that I got from ECS. Took the old pads off and they had Brembo logos but say Textar at the top. Never really looked into the details, who cares anyway lol
I figured out the "brown note" isn't a musical note.
It's when you get a rear engine car sideways in a down pour. And fighting that instinct to just stand on the brake pedal.
Well now I get to shop for tires
And new underwear
i know the feeling, at njmp on sunday someone dropped antifreece at turn 2. Its a blind over the top right hander at 70mph. I went 4 wheel slide to the right, corrected and whipped into a 4 wheel slide to the left, corrected again and staightened it out with a stab of the gas pedal. Felt like it went on for 20 sec and a half mile. It was probably 2 sec and 100 ft. Never went off track and all was good. Kinda felt bad for the owner that lost the fluid. He had an issue the week before, dealer said it was fine and cleared him for the track. Needless to say he ended his day after the 1st session.
Not what I did to my car, but, I'm stuck in quarantine, albeit not difficult quarantine at JW Marriott Phuket Resort, but quarantine all the same. So, no car, no driving. The only thing to do other than walk on the beach or work is to watch youtube videos of people driving 996's while on the exercise bike in the morning...
this past week did engine mounts, front end links, air filter, reverse lamp switch, and the sports exhaust tips. After that was completed .... AutoX!. Car did really well. Much different from the BMWs I'm used to racing.
Dropped the car off for an oil change. They took a deep dive into the suspension since I am planning on coilovers but said everything looks great. I was budgeting replacing all the control arms, etc but turns out I might not need to...yet.
Only other feedback was that there was a small amount of oil seepage and recommended spark plugs/packs in the future. Might get that buttoned up before winter.
Looking at service records, plugs were last replaced July 2015 at 61212 miles. I am at 78,600 now.
Moved from New Orleans, where they don't test emissions (they don't test anything for that matter) to Houston where they do...so I had to swap out my Fabspeed catless x-pipe for Topgear 200 cell cross-overs.
I'm pretty pleased! The 200 cells with my Fabspeed Maxflo mufflers sounds excellent...I was never
really
happy with the catless sound (too farty) but now she growls and it's not any quieter with cats; the wife said "it sounds like a tiger!" ha ha!
Install wasn't bad, hardest part were the awkward angles of the o2 sensors.
I feel your Pain, I installed some "OEM" Cats a month or so back and the angle of the Sensors made it pretty difficult..
..so much so that I haven't been happy with the situation since, so have ordered a Hayward & Scott Cat Bypass X Pipe which I'll install in November when it comes through..
The cat less x pipes is basically a race set up, you loose power down low so it�s not a good street set up. I also have fab speed max flo with their headers. Welcome to Houston, we have two cars and coffees this Saturday, I�m going to the one at Whiskey Cake since I live in Katy, normally awesome turnout and the weather is looking good.
if you track your car they are also having an event at MSR in angleton with Porsche Houston north. I found out about that one last Saturday but we had a previous commitment so I can�t make it to the track, they will be giving rides on some Porsche�s.
Checked all my fluids. Oil for feel, level, af/c for level since I run 33 percent concentration af. Fixing to take her out for a spin. Going to car and coffee tomorrow. This little creature was crawling in the front bumper, when I removed the car cover. Ready for Saturday Sunday smoking for sport events, life is good, plenty of beer already populating the cooler.
These ones with wings and sausages for Saturdays college football games and the wilder fury Fight.
Sunday for the cowboys game.
Awesome, thanks for the heads up, I'll try to make it to some of them! Yeah I bought the car with the catless x-pipe...funnily enough, the previous owner thought it was 100 cell cats, and when I looked I was like "ummmm, there's no cats" but since it was New Orleans and the deal on the car was too good to pass up, I didn't care
Yep, I spun them right after I snapped the pic ha ha!
Awesome turnout, 30 cars. Also a Aston Martin (aka James Bond). Had a blast driving the car , talking to the Porsche guys.
996 4s, wood inserts . 6 speed.
Nice axxx?
12,000 mile 4s, unfortunately a trip tonic.
Nice rear.
More beautiful cars.
Someone just spend some mula on a 2022.
More correctly what I did to my 996 wheels. Got a spare set of Lightweights in so-so condition with mild rash on one. Got them back from refinishing and powdercoating, better than new now. Went with a champagne/light gold look similar to Aurum or Weissgold.
Oops. Apparently have a leak? Never drive in rain but it got an oil change last week and it got rained on while parked outside. Hopped in the car and opened the sunroof before looking up and seeing this.
All of this watching am against Alabama. Bourbons great food. Can�t do any better. Fixing to watch fury against wilder. Went 150 mph on my car today, priceless.
I was inspired to to do a LED lamp conversion by jdbornem's thread from a few weeks ago.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ed-lights.html
. I didn't buy from Superbrightleds.com because it turned out that I had everything I needed in my Box-O-Bulbs�.
I did all the bulbs jdbornem mentioned except for the license plate ones. Even though my wild days are long over, I can't think of any good reason to make it easier to read my license plate.
I had bought some silly Porsche logo puddle lights for the doors some time ago but never installed because the connectors weren't plug & play.
I bought some pigtails that mimic the stock bulb connectors and soldered them on to the puddle lights.
Once I had them all soldered up and tried them, I realized that the stock lights upgraded to LED were much better than the Porsche logo versions.
[QUOTE=SoCal911t;17717855]I was inspired to to do a LED lamp conversion by jdbornem's thread from a few weeks ago.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ed-lights.html
. I didn't buy from Superbrightleds.com because it turned out that I had everything I needed in my Box-O-Bulbs�.
I did all the bulbs jdbornem mentioned except for the license plate ones. Even though my wild days are long over, I can't think of any good reason to make it easier to read my license plate.
Ya but --- those shoes!!!
i went to Texas tech and Oklahoma state. My wife and her cousin went to am, tech lost to TCU, but I feel bad for my longhorn friends because Oklahoma came back on that game. Anyway my father went to Arkansas and Oklahoma so at least Oklahoma won, yes Arkansas lost by a point.�At least my cowboys won. Yesterday�s food .
Pork briskets, beef brisket .
My wife�s cuz had this Trejo beer, we concluded that it wasn�t that good.
This saint Arnold October fest beer is awesome.
Spend Sunday morning at an event called the Bicester Scramble, great weather for it and the crowds came.. Certainly busier than the June event I attended..
Plenty of Porsche to look at of course, and whilst the most obvious choice might be the DLS..
..I have to say that this little Beauty was the Star of the Show for me.. Just lovely..
I went with an old mate of mine, picking him up on the way from London. So on the way back to drop him off, I let him have the wheel of the 996 C4 as he had never driven a 996 before and was a bit of a sceptic / not a fan etc. Needless to say [on this Forum at least]..
..he loved it, and truly felt the merits of the first gen Wassergekuhlt 911.. I think the Bang for Buck ratio is a bit draw too, obviously.. Here he is getting out of the Car doing that classic Look Back as he tried to reconcile the Smiles with the Prejudice he had 20 minutes beforehand..
Proud of the middle boy, got the engine out all by himself and some verbal help from me, time for L&N solution bearing, Injectors, new clutch set up and UAOS installs. water pump and low temp stat was done less than a year ago.
Took it out for some kicks on 66! Led a club drive on Route 66 from Ash Fork to Topock at the CA border. 140 miles of some really fun roads! The drive thru Oatman is an experience with major twisties and the excitement of meeting a burro around the blind corners (three times). Four 996's in the group of 15 cars, we're takin' over! My silver cab is on the left.
I was never a fan of the black bumperettes on the earlier 996s or 986s. Back in 2005 when I had my 2000 986 I was able to buy two painted Arctic Silver bumperettes off eBay for $115.
Fast forward to 2021. My 2000 Cab is Turquoise Metallic Green, with black bumperettes, I�m not a fan of this color combination either.
There are companies that will sell you painted bumperettes, prices ranging anywhere from $460-$600 a pair.
I thought �Why not give it a try and paint them yourself.� So I did. . .
Material Cost
1) First I bought a rattle can of my car�s exterior color from an online company, $25
2) In the event my project was a bust, I purchased two extra bumperettes off eBay $60
3) I purchased a rattle can of sandable primer, and a tube of bondo, $8 + $10.
4) I already had several sheets of sand paper in the following grit - 220, 340, 1000, and 2000. Each sheet costs about $1.50, total cost $6
Not sure how to address the pebbling of the bumperettes I did a bit of an experiment, on one of the bumperettes I put a thin coat of Bondo and sanded it smooth then primed it and on the second bumperette I just spray-painted several coats of the sandable primer. Though you can achieve a perfectly smooth finish with the Bondo, the problem is there is one portion of the bumperette which is very thin, about a quarter inch thick, and it bends/flexes easily. Naturally the Bondo chipped and broke off at that part. I sanded that part down to the rubber and re primed it. I decided the best way for me to do it was to put numerous coats of primer and keep sanding them to get the smooth finish.
Next I applied 5 coats of the body paint, lightly wet color sanded it at 2000 grit then applied the clear coat.
The project isn�t finished yet. I�m going to let the clear coat dry for 3 days then address any orange peal that may remain.
Even with a little orange peal, the bumperettes still look better than the original black ones. I�ll update when they are installed.
Original Black Bumperettes
Bumperette #1 with Bondo underneath.
Primer only Bumperette is the one on the right
Color of bumperettes matches body color well. This lighting is deceiving. Has not been final polished yet.
With Clear Coat, prior to final polishing
Original Bumperettes
New and Old
New Bumperettes Installed
Results look like they turned out pretty well. Honestly, I think you could have sanded the material without bondo and achieved a fairly smooth surface. I have this coming up as a side project so I'll share my results as well.
Great project and great color on your car.
Not trying to be critical, only constructive, but I suspect the paint might have come out better if the clear was applied while the base coat was still tacky. Not sure about the specific paint you used, but typically the clear should go on while the base is tacky for them to intermix a bit before it dries/cures -- that creates more of a glossy smooth finish. In my experience, it doesn't look exactly right when you let the base coat dry (even with fine sanding) and then apply the clear coat later.
The match is pretty good in different lighting. I’ll post photos once I finish polishing them.
Looking back I would not use the Bondo, instead using a few more layers of the primer and sand it to a smooth (pebble free surface) and finish it from there.
I bought my paint from (No affiliation to the company)
https://www.automotivetouchup.com
And the used bumperettes from eBay (My favorite used Porsche Part vendor Specialized German - again no affiliation)
I�m not a body guy, so your suggestion is appreciated. Likely what I will do is polish what I have already completed, install them and experiment with the original bumperettes. Using several layers of primer then applying the clear coat on with the tacky body paint. Kind of makes sense. Won�t hurt to give it a whirl.
Sounds good. Here are the direct instructions from Automotive Touchup --
https://www.automotivetouchup.com/sp...directions.htm
They say to wait 30 minutes on final base coat and then apply clear in several coats 10 minutes apart. It's safest to follow their instructions exactly because all different brands and type of paints have different tack/dry/cure times depending on their formulation.
Always follow the manufacturers instructions on paint and body stuff unless you�re familiar enough with a system to push the limits a bit� it�ll still bite you sometimes even if you do everything right, and you want to remove user error out of the equation when that happens. Spraying clear over �tacky� basecoat isn�t something that I�ve EVER seen recommended in 20 years in the industry
Yeah, not the best choice of words on my part. I was really saying that you generally don't let the base coat fully cure or even fully dry (use whatever times the manufacturer recommends) -- but tacky wasn't the best way to describe that.
Just replaced my MAF (8 years old) and engine air filter (KN which you clean and oil annually) with an oem filter, as well as put a can of seafoam in the tank last weekend.
Woah! What an overall difference. Only thru a quarter tank of gas since there are only so many cloverleafs and on/off ramps you can drive in an hour between 4-7k rpm. But I will get thru the whole tank of gas. Hopefully by this weekend. Throttle is much more responsive lower in the powerband as a result.
Wasn't sold on the BMC and KN filters after 19 years of use, so I decided to go OEM. They are cheaper and quite simply easier to just replace once a year versus messing with cleaning and oiling the BMC/KN filters. No oil restricting the airflow.
Will be replacing the O2 sensors next. My shop will handle the ignition coils, spark plugs and fuel injectors next month. As well as dropping my deep sump to look around and borescope the cylinders from the bottom as well as from the top. Don't expect any problems because my oil tests are good, but just want to develop a baseline.
I have been reading about this mod for awhile and came across a good deal on eBay for a 997.2 S airbox. The airbox was delivered this week and quite frankly looked brand new. I read that I would need to use the 996 snorkel because it would interfere with the air pump but the 997 snorkel worked just fine. Perhaps because I have a wide body and that extra inch on either side helped out. I know this is a purely cosmetic upgrade but it does look better, in my opinion and now matches the displacement upgrade as well
997 airbox install
I read that too but I was able to use the 3.8 snorkel on my '99 C2 narrow body with no problem.
The 3.8 airbox snorkel collar that snaps into the engine lid is different than the 3.4. You might want to consider getting the correct one as you may be letting unnecessary hot air into the intake. It is "Sealing Ring part #
997.110.250.00" and was $12.56 back in January from Sunset.
I put a Rennkit BTR-2 bluetooth adapter in the targa. Took longer to figure out how to get the radio extraction tools out of the radio than just about anything else. Very nice sound quality although I am far from an audiophile.
so you fit a 997 3.8 air box in the 3.4 99 c2? Cool, so if I understand this correctly, then you need to get the bigger snorkel?? Please let me know I may have access to a 997 3.8 box. Luis in Texas.
Not in my case (single DIN Becker CDR-22). The tools pull the retaining tabs in and hold them there, so the radio can slide out of the slot. If you leave them in during reinstallation the radio will simply slide in and out without being held in place. In my case at least, the trick was to use a small screwdriver to press in on the retaining tabs; this removed the spring tension on the tools and allowed them to slide out. It took me 20 minutes of googling to find that little nugget.
Had my daughter help me to replace the brake fluid in my 03 C4S yesterday. From the looks of it, the previous owner hadn�t changed it for many many years, even allowing for what was probably some ATE Super Blue at one time.
Had an awesome time at blending coffee in Sugarland Texas cars and coffee. On top of that was able to drop by Texas squirrel 🐿 who ran the durametric on my car again. Deviations and fuel trims top notch. Anyway, for whoever was questioning the clean of my grill, this is first round today, sometimes I post pictures of 3 or 4th cooks, believe you ain�t going sick by eating my food. Second you is pork briskets and marinated beef fajitas, third round more sausage and country style pork ribs. Go cowboys.
Sick 996 turbo. Over 1110 hp with methanol.
Awesome drivers 996 turbo 85,000 miles, 3 pedal.
This is what a 3.9 protomotive 3.9 twin turbo 920 hp looks like, can hold first gear at all.
First round St. Louis rack, this is the appetizer for the cowboys game.
1835 bourbon on the water moisture cans with apple cider vinegar, just a way to modify the cook.
Bunch of people were taking pictures of my car And asking questions. I�m going to try to put a 3.8 sir box on it, 408s are gorgeous and sick.
Nice Silver Spider! Isn�t there a �smokers forum� you could put the rib pictures on? Don�t get me wrong, I love barbecue (especially ribs...) but every weekend? C�mon dude!
Did the same this week, except i was able to burn a tank of gas hitting a 120 mi r/t on one of our local high-rev twisty roads several times. A whole lot more fun than cloverleaves
Changed the oil yesterday.
You need to put on some orange mirrors, and orange front and back spoilers to balance out the orange 408's and the stripe, will look great for Halloween and Oktoberfest !!!
Is the engine "tick" still fixed???
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yes engine tick is gone. Almost approaching 7,000 driven miles. Found an excuse to drive it today, Mexican breakfast with wife, restaurant made flour tortillas and barbacoa (that�s 18 hour slow cook cows head), off course a few beers to wash it down and a trip to 125 on the way back to the house. Got a set of 997 coils just to
have, the price was right. Bank one cam deviations 0, bank two 3. Squirrel 🐿 and I may be thinking that this engine has been previously worked on, it is hard to know what work the porsche
dealers in California and Arizona did, I have spoken with them and they do not want to disclose any info other that what is stated in the car fax. Next time I take it to my guy we will check compression and leak down but I�m guessing this thing is top notch.
hope you and sally are doing well.
Drinking this one wishing you well skip.
I�m a religious man so I drink beer from the brewers patron st Arnold, this is best October fest beer I have tasted this year, yes I went to king bierhaus and had their German offerings. Saint Arnold is top notch, Texas oldest craft brewery. Got to be careful high octane 6.6.
it�s kind of a Sunday thing. Anyway tomorrow fried shrimp, fried oraida extra crispy Tony cacheres seasoned crinkle cut fries. Tuesday is spaghetti Wagyu meatballs with garlic bread and salad. Wednesday is Nolan Ryan prime skirt fajitas, chicken fajitas, guacamole, tortillas and charro beans. Thursday we are going out to eat don�t know where. Since I�m retired I�m the cook menu planner. Don�t worry next Sunday is queso sausage dip, pizza and wings.
I have never had ilegal drugs but this car is the most addictive thing. My twin turbo r 32 was a lot faster, but I have to thank however owned this car and set it up, this thing drives on rails. Quick 10 minute drive to old Chicago to watch the end of the braves game and Sunday night football.
Spicy Italian sausage and andouille sausage $4. Late night snack for me.
Double pepperoni to take for the wife. $4
$4 late happy hour after 9 pm Voodoo ranger hazy juicy ipa.
50 plus beers on tap late night happy hour with food. Kitchen closes at 1 am, less than 10 minutes from the house. Bartenders continuously feed you samples as the rotate beers all the time.
Excuse to drive the car.
I honestly just can't take his posts anymore. It's like a ****ing record player, every thread garners the same responses, in which maybe half a sentence
may
be related.
Anyways, I found the ignore button in case anyone else is interested.
I wish I could, have plans with the fam. Next Monday I�m traveling to PR to be with my 81 year old mother. I want her not to be along on my deceased sisters birthday November 7. Anyway the death of my sister was the reason I bough the Porsche. She died December 13. At 47 years old , all she took with her was her prom dress and a rosary. My sisters passing has completely changed how I see life and how I now spend money 💰. Thanks for the invite maybe next year.
I finally finished painting and installing the rear bumperettes on my 2000 Cabriolet. You can see the prep work in post #6096 in this thread. Below are the photos of the finished product.
Original bumperettes
Painted new left bumperette as compared to the original right one.
Both painted bumperettes installed.
I installed a Yatour bluetooth adapter for my CR-220. I'm happy with the sound quality and glad I could keep a very stock appearance. I also took my Fikse FM10s off in favor of a set of Profil 13s. The FM10s will now be my track wheels.
I replaced the turn signal relay in my �99. No big deal you say? Read on.
I had what I considered an odd problem with my turn signals. Occasionally (and gradually more frequently) they would not work. The lever would click into place and cancel, but there was no blinker either on the dash or the outside. Instead, there would be just this buzzing noise that came from the steering column. I assumed it was a mechanical issue with the turn signal/wipers/cruise control switch itself, and I was all set to buy a new one. But the fact that it clicked and canceled didn�t seem consistent with stories of failure I�d read. Then I learned about the existence of the relay (I�m a noob) and since it costs little and is easy to switch out I said what the heck. Well, it worked, and I saved myself 250 bucks and the time it would have taken to replace. Win!
That dang headlight switch; extremely notorious. I've read on this forum many problems that it causes that you may not automatically associate with a headlight switch. In fact, my car wouldn't shift into 5th gear and I replaced the headlight switch - shifts like butter now. Obviously only kidding but you get my point. It seems any electrical or lighting issue, the headlight switch should be suspect.
While waiting for my engine block to come back, I decided to remove the seats and paint the seat backs body color. Took a few weeks, but today was the day I finished assembling them.
I have documented what I did on my engine build thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post17757292
. I have a spray gun and compressor from other projects, so that makes the job a bit easier than using a spray can. However; I did have some issues with the paint interacting with the plastic in a bad way and had to do the job twice.
As long as you came away with a better understanding. My headlights all went out the other night. Assumed headlight switch but didn't dig in further. If not, oh well, its old and needed to be replaced anyway...
I got my Quickjack all set up and assembled for the first time as I set about a complete suspension and brake overhaul. Also plan to refinish the calipers as I pretty much have an Ohio winter ahead of me where the car isn't going anywhere.
I also received mine and used it for the first time. I really like it. Seems much safer than using jack stands to get the car off the ground. Definitely much quicker. Costco has them on sale right now. Delivery to the house.
I like mine a lot so far. I bought the BL-5000SLX from Pelican Parts for $100 off, free shipping, and 3 free quarts of ATF. It's very well built and very stable once you're up. I did a fair amount of research here with this community specifically. You'll find in my pic (like many others here) I have it set up "backwards" compared to what the manuals say. You have to imagine most users have a front engine car. I have even seen some people complain about ability to remove tires once it's fully up. In this configuration ("backwards") you can see that is not a problem at all.
I really like my QuickJacks too, but I don't use them backwards.
I haven't run into any issues running them the "correct way."
Someday I'll try them backwards just to see it they're better that way.
I'll have to clean and re-organize my garage first.
Installed the the deck mat.
As some of you might remember from
this post
, I had to send back the first one that didn't fit correctly. I received the 'fixed' mat today.
On side note, if there is anyone besides me that's cuckoo for Cocomats, they're having a 15% off sale from today through Wednesday 11/3. Use coupon code EARLY15. Historically these sales only happen right AFTER I've placed an order.
Matches the front.
I use them "backwards" also. Depending on the car, location of engine, I put the yellow decal closest to the engine. When I first used them, I thought it seemed a little wobbly with the tag forward. Swapped it, much less wobble. Btw, I have the 7K pound version.
Replaced the headlight switch last night so I could take my wife to dinner. Hadn't driven the car in a while. Pretty painless. Have to go get a torx screwdriver set because I couldn't get the angled screw under the switch ****. Didn't keep me from driving.
Yesterday I did the second damper (behind the radio) to finally be rid of vent foam forever. Also fixed the glove box switch that was misaligned (light was staying on and horn was beeping at locking). Then wrapped up the day by polishing the headlights while watching Michigan football.
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Yes so far weather permitting we are going to the Mill cafe in NJ we should be there around 8:30 am we leave 7:30 from the target parking lot off of veterans road in Staten Island
I've bought the wheel stud conversion kit. You can get them in 50mm, 60mm or for $15 more, a "full d-bag" 75mm.
I went �full d-bag.� How often in life can one go �full d-bag� for only an extra $15?
I updated/upgraded my Litronic headlights with Retrofit Labs projectors (I used my existing Phillips extreme vision bulbs). Wow! What a difference... Amazing difference
Check out the video on YouTube of the retrofit. The bottom photo is the projector itself. Top photo shows the brackets you install to mount them to the light module. It�s very straight forward...
I now have a Numeric Racing short shift kit with new cables. OMG, what a difference, I love the reduced throw and mechanically precise feel. I added a Black Forest Industries shift boot and **** as well.
Was always wondering how the BFI shift **** would look, I like them and now I might have to add one since my shifter has seen better days.
Had a reschedule on detail today so among other things I took some time to clean my carpets. This is from the passenger side and after I ran the clean water through the hose, the driver side was much darker.
Looks great. What are your thoughts on the quality of the BFI shift boot? I am looking for a black Alcantara boot for my C4S and I�m not sure where to order from. Thanks
RennLine, the steel ones, veteran discount through CarID.
In the kit they sent me 20 lug nuts but only 19 lug studs. I thought the 5% discount was only on the price, but I suppose you�ve got to read the fine print.
Lug number 20 should arrive on Saturday.
The BFI shift boot quality is superior to OEM Porsche in my opinion. Thicker and more supple and available in several colors of stitching as well. When I initially had **** installed on stock shifter it sat noticeably higher than stock. If you have the trim ring for your boot it has to be detached from stock boot because the ring is not available separately. That being said, I love the shifter. With new cables there is a noticeable increase in cabin sound because boot around cables must be cut to fit bigger cables. YMMV.
And they are in. Installed a lower bracket for me the driver and regular bracket for the passenger only because I didn't have another lowered bracket. Seating position is perfection and transforms the driving / passenger experience. I have a set of Gray Euro bucket as well but I think I'll stick to these black and just add gray leather inserts.
Finally able to drive the car after 22 days. I was visiting my 81 year old mom in PR. Yes PR was fun but was ready to comeback home. Good things about PR great food cheap drinks, $1.25 beers $4 Don q rum doubles, some real nice beaches. Anyway took the car out 10 gallons of shell v power 93, groceries and Panera bread, busted the tower twice. The car was not hook up to a battery tender and it started right away with no hesitation.
West coast el combate beach 25 minutes from my mom
Finally driving the car again.
Double Don q and medalla beer $7.
My mom took that pic, had to take a dip by sunset
Combate during the day
Grouper fish bites, alcapurrias
At the son of my best buddy growing up. Next door to my mom. Listening to music drinking beer, high end shots and saying till next time. New to me Jameson finished in ipa 🍺 beer barrels.
Took a couple of American Wagyu Ribeyes. An Australian deboned lamb leg. My mother said that the reserve Wagyu burgers where the best she ever had Made an 11 lb Puerto Rican pork rear leg. The most I ate over there was seafood, plenty of shrimp octopus, lobster, snapper, mahi mahi.
PR medalla beer. I got 2 lbs of fresh shrimp and my mom made shrimp soup, added avocado to it.
Mom and I, I know I�m the ugly one. At Mangia ME , Italian restaurant. Dayli made fresh pastas and Sauces, owners are two female celebrity chefs that bat from the other side of the plate.
Me and the brewmaster at rinc�n beer company.
Had my greinke jersey but no good.
One of my high school classmates is a surgeon and drives this, bad *** he has more money than me.
My godfathers grandson owns this sports bar. We watched two worl series games over there. Got to eat and drink for free.
Pork leg, avocado and rice with green pigeons (gandules).
I smoked the 11lb leg in my dads old gas grill, I used apple and cherry wood chips.
View from the brewery, ocean lab. They make one with passion fruit that it�s to die for. I can literally go there every afternoon just for the view, it is in Isla verde. Craft beer catching up in PR.
Fresh octopus, shrimp, lobsters salads. This is a place where the Spaniards go.
In the beach apartment, my mom made rice, I chopped some of the rosemary marinated leg of lamb and added andouille sausage.
My 33 year old cousin bought this instead of a down payment for a house. We went for a sunset ride. I was Kind of loaded. These are street legal in PR.
Started washing the car at 5:30 in the morning to go to cars and coffee. I sware cleaning the 408s takes as much time as cleaning the car. Awesome time at the get together in Sugarland. We stayed till almost 12:30. Love to be back to my habitat. Now at my watering hole watching college football. Taking the wife to dinner latter on tonight. Tomorrow smoking ribs, sausage with crawfish Mac and cheese.yes I busted the tower twice, 120 going in, 135 on the way back, I almost forgot got to say hi and chat with My buddy Tex squirrel, one of the nicest guys in the Porsche community.
Listening to Rick and roll hopefully I didn�t woke up any of the neighbors.
Had a few beers and a couple of shots of 1835 it was 45 degrees.
Cleaned and conditioned the seats also.
Alpha blue Gt3 touring. Yes a lady and it�s a three pedal car, awesome. That green is mamba green it looks real good in person but it stands out.
I�m a sucker for blues.
All variety of cars and colors. About 8 of us stay almost two more hours having a great time.
My local watering hole. An awesome finish to a great Saturday.
Took advantage of the car on the quick jacks and decided to clean the front wheel wells. Not perfect, but a LOT better than it was!
Before shots:
Prep for cleanup, I used Simple Green, works great:
After shots:
Time for the bi-annual oil change. I feel #ManInAGarage's pain with a *barely* one car garage. Takes almost as much time to get the car up with one hydraulic jack (back and forth a few times up front) as it does to actually change the oil. Did a quick front end alignment while I had it up and super pleased with the results.
I didn't think this would annoy me as much as it really has when buying this house. Apartment garage was a 1.5 and that little bit difference was even night and day.
I agree. And then you see guys who drop their engines with 2 in clearance on one side to the wall or another car. I don't even see how they get their Jack's in position. those guys know something I don't but I would like to.
...a *lot* of sucking in the belly and going veeeerrrry slow when repositioning the jack so one doesn't scratch/damage the paint. I haven't dropped the engine, but have replaced the control arms, coils/spark plugs, exhaust.
If I had a 1.5 car garage and qucikjacks, I could do most of my work in ⅓ to � the time it takes me now.
C'est la vie.
I've been there and it was not fun. When I was at my mom's we had a 2 car garage but it mostly a storage unit so it was really just a small one car. Nothing is more maddening than having a 2 car garage with just enough space to park a small compact vehicle. Somehow I managed around it but not without rattling off every curse word in the dictionary every single time. It was so crammed in there I had to use every MM of space I had available. I'm not even kidding, I even had to resort to removing the ***** on the wooden cabinets and drawers for maybe an inch or two of extra space. When I needed to use the jack I would have to open a cabinet and empty it out just so I could bring the lever as far down as possible. I'm so grateful I have 4 car garage now with an abundance of floor and work space. I DO NOT miss those days
So happy I finally installed the RUF Sport Springs and Bilstein B8's. Love the lowered stance and the ride quality is just what I hoped for. Smoother on the highway and roads and tighter through the turns. Feels how the car should in my opinion. No brainer upgrade, sorry it took me so many years to get around to it.
With Ruf Sport Springs and Bilstein B8's
Took it for a sunroof open, windows down drive. Christmas and Thanksgiving are two of my favorite days because of the light traffic. That the weather is so nice is just a bonus.
Now I'm off to the kitchen to work on getting some Surf N' Turf action ready for later...
I do all my own work except for inspection and alignment! Would love to have details on how you do alignment! Since divorce I only have a tiny one car garage... So I am a driveway mechanic!
SmartStrings
One of the best investments I've made in tooling. I did the jackstand strings, tried laser levels, but this makes it so nice as it's all attached to the car, so as you roll, raise, lower, etc, everything stays square. If you take your time, you can do as good a job as any common alignment shop. Tip: if you can get a helper that can either turn wrenches on the adjusters, or can measure accurately, life is MUCH easier. The hardest part is crawling under, making an adjustment, crawling back up, measuring, then back under.... Two people, job easy and done.
For camber/caster, pick up a simple digital level and a couple of bits of square aluminum tubing, cut to fit the rim diameter. That and a carpenters square to make sure the tubing is perpendicular to the floor, level on tubing, read and adjust.
Really? Smoother on the highway? You have my attention!
What size wheels are those? 18, 19"?
How much does that combo lower the ride height?
Right now I'm completely stock on a 03 C2
I just thought it would be fun to put the GTS on there because the car has GT3 seats, steering wheel, shift ****, short shift kit. And both doors have Heuer decal on them. See photo.
The wheels are the stock 18's. Powder coated black gloss. Springs are RUF ordered directly from RUF and shipped quickly from Europe. Height from floor to wheel well is now Front 25 1/2" and rear 25 5/8". Feels smoother on the highway. Harsh bumps on side streets feel more firm. RUF states these springs lower the car about 1 inch all around. Stays more level in turns. Feels like lower center of gravity.
I mean� it�s your car and my opinion doesn�t matter but since there is a GTS designation in the 911 model line, it�s strange to call it a GTS when it�s not. Don�t mind me� people relabeling their cars is a pet peeve of mine. Can�t stand it. Lol. Yes, I do need to chill out.
Nice car, though.
Well done! You'd be surprised by how much more shine you can get by following up with a polish after using a compound. Sometimes compounds can leave some haze as they have more aggressive abrasives. A polish helps to bring out the clarity in the clear coat. Typically the process is: compound, polish, protect.
yeah if you haven�t tried it this 4 roses small batch is even better. The cb was on sale at $10 so it�s not a bad mixing bourbon. So this weekend we had the 1792 and the 4 roses small batch. The 1792 has more of a Bite, but it has a lower alcohol content than the 4 roses. The 4 roses is extremely smooth. You can actually mix the 1792, the 4 roses is too good to mix. Had breakfast with the wife at a hole in a wall Mexican place in Victoria. Menudo (tripe soup with hominy), tacos de barbacoa (cows head meat slowed cooked overnight. The jalape�os were bad ***, they had a huge bite because the seeds were till there. More beer 🍺 for me. Anyway I need to wash the car for cars and cocktails tomorrow.
When those decide to come out, I�ll be paying the price, 😂.
I am a scotch guy, but have come to appreciate bourbon. Was drinking both 1792 and Four Roses over Thanksgiving with the family. Both exceptional.
To stay in line with the thread theme. I removed my 7mm spacers and put on 15mm. Should have gone to 18mm. Still a little room left. Will be replacing my wheel studs with 82mm titanium studs shortly.
Wash and interior detail. Going to
cars and cocktails in tomball Texas. Little Woodrows, kind of Texas thing. Anyway an hour drive to get there, so fun 🤩 fun 🤩 🤩.
Little Woodrows in Tomball is the hoot. Like a 2 acre plus parking lot. All kinds of cars, mclarens Ferraris, hell cats, Bemmers, jdms, mustangs, corvettes etc. Huge outside area, hard to find place. Was there for three hours, got the feeling this goes from 11- 6. Will be back in the future.
This 996 owner created his own version
I guess he has a 996 Carrera s triple black edition .
The Ferrari crowd was out there in force, off course you could recognize them by their clothing.
The Porsche clan was well represented.
A lot if tap beer.
Fires to warm up.
Most p guys were parking next to each other.
Wheels and tires refreshed. Powdercoated 996.2 Lightweights, Pirelli PZero Colleziones, Huf valve stems and OE centercaps. DIY ceramic coat on the wheels prior using Gtechniq C5 wheel armor. While the tire man was here also took care of the spare tire valve (rubber dry rotted away).
If you're curious, the color is a light gold/champagne metallic topped with gloss. Prismatic Powders Electro Gold PMB 1978.
Thanks and glad I got samples (free) from Prismatic before choosing. You see more yellow in full sun, in the shade it's more champagne. Powder v. paint was about the same for refinishers in the area.
Took my 996.1 C4 for its Annual Service..!
Shopping List:
Minor Service
Repaint Front Bumper/PU
Refurb Wheels
Fit Hayward & Scott Cat Bypass Pipe
Additional items:
Front CV Boots
I successfully removed the sunroof tray some time ago and separated the fabric with no issue. It is still in perfect condition.
Any recommendations on best way to reattach the headliner to the tray? I had the fabric off before I had the tray out so I don't know what it looked like before. Just spray adhesive?
3M sells a adhesive for this, I was able to get it at a parts store locally. In the past I did my Jeep Cherokee headliner and it wasn't too bad. Lay out your fabric and then fold half it back over onto itself, spray the adhesive on the half of the headliner and then fold it over and smooth out so there aren't any wrinkles. Repeat on the other side.
I love 3M spray adhesive. They have many kinds, with slight differences and strengths, including one for headliners. Just follow the instructions closely, most sprays have you spray both sides, let it start to set, then push them together. I'm always impressed by how well it works (on all sorts of applications). My only failures have been when it was too cold during application, or I got in a hurry. Good luck!
I need a DIY on removing the sunroof headliner from the tray as well as removing the rest of the headliner from sunroof opening.
right now I have a full sunroof cassette with the sunroof panel and the headliner all still attached.
Tint removed on the 1999 silver aero car. So much better. Tint with black interior is DARK!!
Tint removal of 1999 Glacier scheduled for Tuesday. That's going to be some kind of before and after transformation. I'll post pics of all later.
Different kinda garage entry. I've been bothered by my cam deviations being off 3 degrees since the rebuild. Tracked the issue down to my (knock off Amazon special) timing tool being clocked 1.5 degrees. So I fabricated one that's actually true through a combo of CNC machining and 3D printing. Figured I'd do the mufflers while I was at it.
Getting pretty proficient at this.
Knock off on the left. My version on the right.
just bs you guys. Wife got a triple black dart Vader. I can comfortably ride drunk in the back.
So we had to celebrate, double gingerbread martinis.
Sitting side haze Katy Texas no label brewing.
Bad *** blooming shrimp available at Outback.
I finished the lasagna on Wednesday night, trying to see how much infused flavors I get by baking it today.
Replaced my (killer) frunk lid gas struts. The last ones I got were from Pelican Parts and were supposed to be OE. I ordered the Porsche replacements from Auto Atlanta. Hope these last longer than six years. Before had to hold frunk lid up with one hand and load with the other hand. Now it takes two hands to just lower the frunk lid. Go figure......
Great outing today. Plenty of cars. Two brand new 2022 Porsches. Always a blast.
That�s it�s a local 40th anniversary in excellent shape.
That 2022 blue is sick. A 21 and a 22 speedsters 718 next to each other, I�ll take the blue one.
2022 Carrera some kind of green, less than 1000 miles with a sick soul exhaust. Guy already ordered suspension and wheels for the car. The local Porsche dealer only got 3 Carreras per 3 month period this year, lucky if you get one allocated to you.
2022 speedster with deviated stitching. Gorgeous car, too little for me.
Got to love ❤️ that behind!!!
well, you�re the guy who sold me the carpet, so I�ll take your advice. Guess who�s getting $11 back from Discount Auto!
Carpet is out, that was the easy part. Broke the windshield removing the roll cage 😬
Arctic Silver, (factory?) aero and Lobster Forks. Looks great. The detail on the Lobster Forks contrast & compliment the smooth lines. What size wheels? What color are those wheels?
just for fun: https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/a1176881-c36f-4ced-8ac4-3e0c8b4717be
thanks, the guy got an allocation he spected it out. He said he is fixing to modify it. Three pedal car. He is painting the brake calipers yellow this week.! Meanwhile I started cooking a 6 lb brisket flat this morning at 1:30. Potato salad, ranch style beans. Can wait to eat.
Brisket flat.
Got to light that wood fire,
old fashioned Oklahoma Joe�s, smoke ring and flavor to die for,!
10 hours worth of work, fire tendering. Anyway better than any BBQ joint around here and I�m not paying $30 a pound.
Good turnout at cars and coffee Katy whiskey cake. 2021 turbo s race yellow, 1971 signal yellow. As always a blast and went supersonic at 125, now a few brews before heading to the house. Tonight is the Porsche end of year gala dinner.
That Turbo s next to mine is a $300k car, the guy ordered every single available option.
That black 911t 1970.
1971 signal yellow.
Took car to a 3 day class I have to attend in CT. So, after three hours of driving, the seats aren't great and the sound system leaves a lot to be desired. Still love the car and these issues aren't anything I didn't suspect or seen others talk about.
Saturday night friends food, Pcar talk, dinosaurs at the Houston Museum Of Natural science. Then the wife and I hit Old Chicago pizza and tap room, i was still hungry kitchen closes at 1:00 am, pub pizza.
Us Puertoricans with The President of our region and the guy in charged of the Saturday cars and coffee get togethers.
Old Chicago Tap room after the event. Kitchen closes at 1:00 am, pub pizza.
Voodoo ranger juicy hazy IPA only $3. Shot of woodford reserve double oak.
The international mafia, Puertoricans, Mexicans, Venezuelans,Hondurans, we had a blast.
Cool dinos, I wish It was a dyno rib instead!!! Food was soso I was hungry.
The Porsche lanyard matched my shirt.
Overall a night to remember.
Suggestion: stay off the interstates, even if it makes it a 4-hour drive instead of 3. You'll forget about the seats and stereo and remember what a joy the car is when you are turning the wheel and using the pedals.
Drove the car, met with Tex squirrel 🐿. A bit of Porsche talk. Got my fab speed x pipe. Had to take a trip to total wine and more. To celebrate my Christmas present (xpipe) had to get a few bottles. Life is good can�t wait to get that 3.8 airbox and the xpipe on.
Nice parking lot at Chick-fil-A.
Xpipe with 3.8 airbox nicely wrap for Christmas.
Tex squirrel gave me a few odds and ends to take to Justin.
A few nice bottles to add for the Armagedeon bunker supply.
JL 4� in dash and rear sides
Kicker 5 1/4� went in the doors, but the tweeter component went inside the dash enclosure where the factory tweeter had been mounted. Separated components always make an impact.
The result of this upgrade is fantastic. Better than I imagined. Although I think having Waze on my double din receiver is the best part since I still prefer listening to the engine over anything else! 🤣
You can always get another.
I sold my �00 Cabriolet in September after a skin cancer procedure. Three days later I purchased a �99 coupe. Not having a 911 wasn�t working for me. 🙂
I didn�t actually see the factory junk. I forgot to mention - I don�t work on my cars. I MUCH prefer paying for professionals to do it. That�s just me.
It’s on my post just press view and listen it’s amazing absolutely!!!
it’s still in the shop getting the 997 gt3 shifter installed but with the holiday I’m sure I won’t get it back till Tuesday
but I will post full throttle video asap
you are the second guy That I had seen putting a Carrera s badge on a 996. The other is here in Houston and his name is Tony. Maybe you two need to develop a Carrera S kit for the 996. Here is a pic of the car I�m talking about,
hate that bra.
I dislike a lot about that car... Rare.
Wing
1997 car phone antenna
That BRA is horrific, why do people put those on their cars.
Silly badge setup
An intervention is in order.
Was bought that way and I’m sure everyone here has their 911 exactly as it left the factory 23yrs ago
I’m sure your car has 100% Porsche only including that ducktail headlight covers and red wheels and front wing
if it works for you enjoy
So the factory put on fake badges an aftermarket wing and what looks to be a very new, at least condition wise brazier ?
I don�t really care either way, if you like it I�m happy for you (given your bumper choice - #notshocked).
I think it�s tacky and the car has a lot of potential, that brazier looks to be covering some very nice paint.
Z I wasn’t the one to point out what makes anyone’s car individually theirs that was you and your boy you point out a sticker and ok a aftermarket headlight cover???
my wing is factory as my car is XAA
To whoever it is on here who criticizes another guy�s 911, please admit that you�re actually a middle school aged boy who loves Porsches, and is just here goofing around. Because there�s just no way you�re a grown man. Please tell me I�m right. The world is already messed up enough.
I didn�t say anything bout sticker�. I think that�s an Alabama sticker and I would know better than to bad mouth it (roll tide). They make us Patriots fans look downright lethargic.
But Ok. It�s Christmas, not gonna argue. Plus, you�d be hard pressed to find any 996 that looks worse than mine does at the moment.
Have a good day amigo.
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Sounds great man. A few years back I put a Corsa Sport cat back exhaust and x pipe on C6 Corvette. It sounded normal at normal speeds but when I hit the throttle oh man did it sound nice.
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i bought the car that way. Maybe that�s why I got a bargain, 18k in January with 91k miles. All I have done to the car is mechanical stuff. Oil changes, fix the windows fit, replace one hose, clean the intake, remove carbon deposits from piston tops. I am not a purist and I like modified cars, anyway the car rides like a go cart and I�m super happy for it. I like it so much that I have driven it almost 7,500 miles in less than a year. Next 3.8 Carrera S airbox and fabspeed x pipe.
You will love the xpipe my car sounds EXOTIC and much racier sound then the muffler delete
Great deal on a nice looking car regardless of the add on�s if you enjoy your car as much as I�m enjoying mine your in great company
I bought mine and it didn�t need a thing the previous owner loved and drove it with lots of gusto
I didn�t appreciate the attacks on other cars
my only pet peeve is when people swap out Porsche engine for American muscle but I feel that way about anyone going outside of the their brand engines
im slowly and costly returning my car back to stock as the last 2 costliest items are the 996.1 AERO front/rear bumper covers until then the car will be loved and driven with gusto
have a happy new year enjoy the revs
i met a guy that has a Porsche shop thru cars and coffees. Anyway he bores out the throttle and puts a bigger plate in it. I�m leaning to do that after the x pipe and box. I did that to my vr6 corrado and it really showed 5hp on the dyno. Merry Christmas.
That 360 Modena reminds me of working on an early Countach, but at least the output shaft doesn't run through the oil pan or the diff doesn't share the same oil.
Awesome time with Luis and Alfredo at cars and cocktails. Unbelievable cars. This corvette is out if this world.
We P guys stick together.
Alfredos 02 is to die for, best ever looking paint I seen on a 996 .
Luis 1986 Blue, unbelievable color hints of purple and silver, awesome classic.
Cool GT3, but that blue R8 V10 gatted manual is to die for.
Overkill, 2350 hp corvette, 7.5 quarter mile car , unbelievable sound. Boys with Toys. Street legal to top it off.
Cleaned the snow off of her, then shoveled the driveway and turning apron, then shoveled about a 1/4 mile down to the street after which I took her out for about a 35 mile drive. A fair amount of compact snow and slipperiness, not much has been plowed or sanded yet. We had between 4 - 6 inches of snow last night and this morning. The Carrera did great, she just got a new set of Michelin Pilot Sport 4+ All Seasons and they did great!
Help me! I'm cold!
The driveway and turning apron.
About 2/3s of the way down.
Back home safe and sound and happy!
That's an F50... quite a bit different
Most 360 work can be done with the engine in the car. There's a panel behind the seats to access the front of the engine
Installed a Christmas gift from the wife. A function first shift ****. HUGE improvement over stock, but the aluminum sure does feel cold in a northern Utah winter
After spending a while trying to get the battery charged up and the car started I finally did and took it on a 40-mile drive. While sitting at a red light I opened up the center console armrest lid to put my new insurance card away, noticed a key in there. My car came with two keys one of which only locked and unlocked the car. This random key I haven't noticed in 3 years of ownership also starts the car so now I don't have to waste hundreds on a second key. This was a nice surprise after a few bad days.
Drove from LA to Santa Barbara in the rain and when I got there the sky was blue. First time driving this one in the rain and it was actually pretty relaxing. My cabriolet felt too claustrophobic in bad weather.
I used to take my 996 there when it was Holberts. I've not been there since before they changed ownership.
At least they have cars in there. I visited Porsche of the Main Line this week and this was the view - one car and it wasn't for sale. Good luck getting an allocation right now and it must be a lesson in frustration to be a Porsche Sales person.
They are doing the Audi side now. They�ve had a bunch of cars for a while, I�ve watched the lapis blue turbo sit for a few months but they haven�t moved on price.
Two accomplishments yesterday.
1. I joined up and started to watch the Rennvision YouTubes on bore scoring. These videos are extremely informative and entertaining. Especially #3 which discusses possible causes of bore scoring. It is however like watching videos on prostate cancer....
2. I installed a nifty back up camera. It installs on the license plate holder and has a WiFi to your phone in the cockpit. I powered it off the back up light circuit and ran the wires through the license plate light. You could make it an easier install by powering the camera off the license plate light but then you would need to turn on the lights before backing up, and the system would be running continuously when the lights are on. There are even convenient holes in the engine room to feed the wires over to the light unit. Germans think of everything.
Update:
After driving with the back up camera for a bit I decided powering the system from the back up light is less than ideal. It turns out that if I shift out of reverse the wi-fi drops off line so the aft picture freezes. So yesterday I switched the power source to the rear fog lamp which at first glance seems much better. So before backing I just do the pull and twist with the light switch and the wi-fi powers up and stays up until I extinguish the rear fog lamp, which I can't imagine ever using, so the wi-fi is only on when I need it. This seems about as ideal as I can get it.
Got my 900$ winter setup mounted
Tire rack had the wheels on close out for 98$ each. Falken eurowinters were $520
225s square 👀
Rear needs a srs spacer
Hollow Turbo Wheels powdercoated black with silver lip (my local guy)
New Center Caps Ordered (suncoast parts)
Michelin PS4's ordered (Tire Rack)
Spacers Ordered (elephant racing)
Extended Lug Bolts Ordered (elephant racing)
Ohlins Road and Track Coilovers Ordered (Tire Rack)
996.1 side skirts ordered (ebay used)
It was a great day for the white 996.1
Continued with breaking up the interior sea of gray by replacing the kidney shaped trim pieces on the console below the shifter.
With the black versions.
I can get down with the rally lights. Just need to get it refined, I would like to see the pod mounted on the bumper.
My old 323GTX backyard rally beater / snowboard hauler.
@SoCal911t
did you add that black piece of carpet? Thinking of doing this to my graphite grey interior, but am unsure of what's under the kidney trim and wallet/phone/sunglass holder/CD holder.
Got my new to me 2000 Cab with Tip deferred maintenance caught up including IMSB Solution, UAOS, new Coils, half shafts, water pump, transmission service (seals, pan gasket, fluid), all the plastic hoses & oil fill, etc. If it needed replacement then it got replaced.
Shout out to Dan Crytzer at Deutsche RennSport in Pittsburgh, PA. Awesome mechanics with reasonable pricing and the best customer service I�ve encountered in YEARS!!!
I�ve got 2... Aluminum for the warm/summer months and a Black Delrin (I did silver paint fill in the shift pattern numbers and center seam - it was a pita... if I had to do it again, I�d pay the extra $ to get it with the fill done) one for cold/Winter driving. The aluminum one is actually painful to use when it�s cold, and it takes forever to warm up!
It doesn�t allow the ashtray to open, but it keeps it from snapping open (it�s an oil/gel filled gear). The little plastic feet that mount to the ashtray get brittle over time and break off...Unfortunately, although it�d be easy to replace, they�re not readily available. 😩
While we're upgrading the suspensions (H&R sport springs and Bilsteins B8s all round) we found that the boots on the CV joints were shot and leaking grease. I'm thinking of removing the whole front transmission and converting the C4 to a C2. Any thoughts? Good idea or bad idea?
Last week I used my new QuickJack for the first time to fix my slacking ebrake. Pictures attached.
Purchased a spare set of front amber headlights and rear amber tailights for an early 996 off of eBay. $950 shipped and taxed to death. All in excellent condition. I thought I did well.
Hi, thank you for the info but after reading the manual thoroughly again I couldn't find anything that confirms your claim. In fact, on the QuickJack website there are pictures showing a Porsche lifted the same way I did mine and then another picture of a Subaru with the QuickJack turned the other way, facing the back of the car. So, in all frankness I don't think it matters as long as they are positioned properly on the jacking points. See pics attached.
There was a note somewhere a while back but seems to be gone now. There are notes about being aware of COG when lifting. This is where is makes sense to position the decal at the end with the most weight for exceptional cases, as the cantilever created by the lift at one end moves the effective lifting point back several inches at early phase of the lift. Won't affect many vehicles, but if you search you will find some who complain of instability created by this effect.
So uhh I wanted to get the Porsche out more this year so I decided to take it to the doctors. Look over and a mouse is chilling with me. Then it started running around, almost had it out the window since it was sitting on the pass door ledge but it ran back in. Send help, I may just leave the car here until spring.
Took her a few times to stay running this morning in 22 degrees. Cold as hell! I think I also need a new bank 1 pre-cat 02 sensor though. Can someone confirm that this is the sensor actually on the bank 2 side, and the one you can see just by looking under her (no jack needed)?
FWIW, I always position mine so it is lifting forward as the car sits. That just seemed to be the "right way" in my mind. Been doing it that way for years - 996, Boxster S, 997.2, 135i. I had originally marked the block placement for faster set-up and stuck with it I guess.
Dave @ SOUL
Found a buildup of sludge in the top of the intake manifolds. Looks like maybe the TB gasket is failing. Order a new one from the dealership should have it Thursday.
Gave me a chance to check for oil in the intake... Definitely moist but doesn't appear excessive, although what do I know 🤷
Had to go to the dealer today to order some parts for my rebuild and saw a new 992 GT3. What I found crazy was the asking price of $329,995 on a car with a sticker price of $180,480. They don't even bother to put the marked adjustment line item on the dealer sticker.
I’m glad we got my wife’s car when we did, msrp and 0 percent. I dunno how I got my Tacoma for msrp in September but I did. All these markups are nutty. No reason to buy over msrp unless you desperately need a car.
Porsche needs to raise their prices. I'd much rather give them my $$ rather than dealer. They could put it to better use with R&D into more sweet 911's.
Yeah and you may not even be allocated a car. Look everywhere and you�ll see p cars with less than 1,000 miles selling for way more than sticker. To add to insult then you need to pay the buyers fee if is in an auction. I�m not sure how but when we got the wife�s car in December Mercedes, the dealer had a market adjustment fee for new cars of $5k for cars with MSRP under
$75k, $10k markup from $75 and above. Wife�s car was a cpo with 5,000 miles, never registered so we are the first owners, the trick was we got full price for our trade, our trade needed to be serviced ($800) and registered and inspected so another $100 plus. The suv we bought was just serviced. Wife is happy 😃, I�m happy because I fit a lot better in this suv than on her sedan, I�m even comfortable in the back seat.
After x pipe install car was throwing CEL. Got it scoped, apparently we switched the oxygen sensors on bank one. Switched them today and my buddy gave me this red Intake that I also installed for more vroom-vroom noise.
Easy to swap O2 sensors.
Red intake to give with my wheels.
Thought so... read somewhere they were reversed. Nonetheless, no 02 issues and the 02 values are fine when driving, just had to clear the code. Code was there along with the two other when I first got it. Driving it (10k miles in 7 years from previous owner) and changing the oil seemed to fix everything haha (seriously though).
Probably a bad explanation on my part. I put the QJ's under the car so when it lifts the car (It lifts on an arc), the car is moving up and slightly forward just like the videos. Front engine, rear engine or mid engine. This is how it is designed to work, etc. They had older videos of placing them under a car laterally, as an option, but I don't know anyone that uses them that way in practice.
Maybe a coincidence, or maybe you recalled my comment in an earlier post about how mine came with 408s when new, but somewhere along the way the original owner put Sport Designs on it�and it still hurts my heart to see 408 on the hood sticker. 😢
A lot of 408's got bent by potholes and when the owner got the sticker shock of the new wheel cost, they opted for a set of aftermarket "prettier" wheels....
This happened a lot..
I can attest to the #408 lips being pretty thin and can see how they could easily bend.
With regards to the sport design 2 piece wheel, they crack a lot also.
Good thing I have a good wheel guy who can take care of all my damaged wheel needs.
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Nothing that exciting at the moment. Dash leather has had sun damage since when my dad bought the car. I am also taking the opportunity to get rid of all the soft touch surfaces and redo the blend door foam. Might have a little interior surprise for everyone once I get it all back together.
Dropped the engine (actually my employee dropped it out- hahahahaha)- Replaced all fuel injectors, installing UOAS, and new axle going in as one split and sprayed grease around, and cleaned it up a bit to remove grease/grime
Engine dropped
Engine on stand by
OEM AOS about to go away
UAOS about to head to its' new home. Thank you
@Porschetech3
for making this possible!
Not pristine but better than it was with the axle greased sprayed around
I was going to post I removed my rear seat seat backs but given the post above mine it seems a little insignificant.
PS: Removed them because I have euro buckets and a Tequipment roll bar. The rear seats wouldn't fold down anylonger so I couldn't get my golf sticks in the back area. Problem solved.
I'll be writing a check too- LOL! I insist the shop bill me as a regular customer to keep things square with the shop and techs. I do have the luxury of supervising the work and nit picking them- hahahahahahaha
I agree. Between friends and family, there is nothing like Golf. Motorsports is fun but nothing like golf. As a former golf pro, I have my priorities in order indeed !!
And at 50, I'm making a competitive comeback. Look out Md State Golf Associaiton and the USGA, I"m back!
I look forward to driving my 996's around all spring / summer to different events / courses.
Golf is a hard game. I have played since I was 14, and I play to a 12 on a real golf course. I also played baseball in high school and college. Never as hard as golf.
My best bud plays to a 5, and he is soooo much better......a world of difference between a 5 and a twelve...I envy you playing to scratch...
How hard are these engines to pull? They look like they come out in such a neat package.
My dad played to a scratch and I kick myself for not taking the opportunity to play when it was free and as much I could handle at the club he belongs to. I ended up picking it back up in my early twenties and I made it to a 9 one season but hover between 12-15 now. It always amuses me when people who play once a year or pick up a club and think its easy.
If any of you fellow golfers ever make it to the Little Rock, AR area- ring my bell. Last year my favorite adventure was a group of friends went to Top of the Rock in Branson, MO at several courses. The views were spectacular and the courses challenged the skills. The trip included a round at Payne's Valley. The 19th hole is awesome, and the golf trail up the side of the cliff back to the club house is an adventure in itself.
Yes- the putt did fall- Woot!
19th hole Payne Valley
Par 3 course practice range- Practice range closed due to massive sink hole to the left of it.
Sink hole
Well said. I'm gonna write a book.
First Chapter: Golf
2nd: IS
3rd: HARD
4th: Cars much easier
End of story. I dedicated a good 20 years of playing basically all day, everyday, every chance I could. Got my amateur status back in 2005 and having fun again for the next 5 years. Had kids and started my business in 2010 and golf took a back seat. IF my body will let me it's time for a comback. My buddy tried for the senior tour, got provisional status but that's not my goal, but my goal is to play in the US Senior Open which many of my friends have played in. Lets GO!!
Changed my engine mounts on my 109,000 mile 2002 n/a cab. Pretty easy job. I did them with no history on if, or when, they were ever replaced but I assumed they had not. The PO gave me receipts for everything he had done and he owned it for 7-8 years before me. No indication he had done them, and I wouldn't assume the owner before that did them..it would have been too new. Imagine my surprise when I got in there and discovered two different mounts. They were actually in good shape but I already had replacements on the bench and I feel better knowing they're matched brand/vintage.
Who replaces one motor mount at a time???
I went with Calloway last season, with a new Taylor Made driver. I had been playing with a 9.5 face on my earlier Taylor Made and the new one is a 12 degree face. The irons made a noticeable positive difference in my game. If I were playing in a league now I'd probably pay a shot or two better now. My buddy (5 handicap) claims the Calloways improve a well struck shot marginally, but they improve the result from a poorly struck shot substantially, which I found to be true. The 12 degree drive added about 20 yards to a well struck tee shot. I had been playing with the old clubs more than 20 years and now my game has finally joined the 21st century game of golf technology.
It's a hard game.
LOL…..LMFAO I’m from Staten Island where the movie is based those characters are real and present today as if time stood still especially at the Richmond county golf club
and yes there are many Porsche owners
IMHO (and I am new to Porsche), keep the all wheel drive. Much more of an "any weather" car and, in stock form, maybe a better handling vehicle than it's C2 brother. I'm not able to do it, but if I could, I'd keep the C4 as is and pick up a C2 to keep it company.
lol. Try the Callaways, Just kidding. Just have fun and maybe have another drink. Golf is a fun game they say
If you really want to improve, the secret to golf is in the dirt as Hogan once said.
Had a blast today. My friend and I took the cars to my mechanic. The mechanic looked at my friends new to him 993 and found a few issues. He fixed the CELs on my car changing back the O2 sensors. When we installed the fab speed x pipe we used the O2 sensors that came with the pipe but they were from a .2 996. We put back my O2 sensors and that fixed the issues, my sensors have 993 part numbers and they do look different. We also replaced the serpentine belt and installed the Carrera S 3.8 airbox, we also had Ribeyes and sausage for lunch. Life is good, a day of cars, good food, beers. What else can I asked for.
A Millenium edition with 22 k miles.
My friends 95 983.
Ribeyes.
Carrera S air box, vroom vroom.
Interesting that you say that because I have been wondering too. here are many diverging opinions on the subject. Some say that because it is a viscous system it only send very small amount of power to the front wheels (15% or so) and therefore is somewhat inefficient. Others say that it helps the car handle better by reducing over-steer. In any case, it is really easy to put it back on so I am not too worried.
I only had the car back for a couple of days and below are my first impressions after driving the it for about 50 miles (some highway/some back roads/some town). Remember that the car is now fitted with new B8s and H&R springs which obviously also changed its behavior.
-Steering is a more precise and not bouncy/shaky when hitting road imperfections (very likely due to new suspensions)
-It is a lot more sensitive to wind
-It is a LOT noisier inside the cabin. I need to look into that. Anyone having done it and has experienced the same thing, please chime in.
-I experienced a LOT more over-steering which really surprised me. I was going around a circle and gave some gas a bit early out of the corner (as I sometimes do to get a bit of fun out of the car) and for the first time in two years of ownership, the tail snapped which triggered the PSM.
I will update with more info especially once I've taken the car to the track and on AutoX events.
Have you built in any Drop i.e. Shorter Springs..? If so, which Top Hats / Mounts have you gone for..?
I have my 996.1 C4 sitting at GT3 ride height on MO20 Shocks and H&R Springs and get a creak from the Top Mounts because of the Angle etc.
A new shift **** installed, was easier than I expected but I did break a tab on the silver ring. Think between a combination of age and it being cold out made it extra brittle. You can see in the picture of the old one there was a hole in the boot.
I was part of the VAG world for a long time, sold my S3 recently for a truck so all we have now is the wife's Tiguan. When I worked at a shop we use to carry BFI stuff but I never ended up getting one in all the years of Audi or VW ownership. I was going to do the GT3 shift **** but at almost $500 this seemed like a better value. Feels good in the hand, was relatively easy to install, I wish they would include a bit extra adhesive for tucking the boot, otherwise, fitment was excellent and I didn't have to fight anything. I only had to look up how to get the old one off and the rest went smoothly.
Recently sold my 996 and had a Recaro on order from summer last year (still isn't here but that is another story).
Was going through some things in the basement and I have a Planted floor mount if anyone is looking for one. For some reason my account doesn't allow me to post in classifieds yet. In the meantime, message me if anyone needs it.
I can get pics soon. Figured someone in here was possibly looking at seats this winter
https://www.plantedtechnology.com/pr...iver-left.html
Accidentally dumped the clutch in 1st gear while in my driveway on a cold start. My heart sank.
I'm not too upset about it though - she pisses me off sometimes... Child-rearing is effective when done right.
Thats about what I paid last year for two used Planted mounts off eBay.
I haven’t bought new seats, so they went into storage.
Then a few months ago I was installing new seats in someone’s 996 and they had failed to buy mounts, so I sold them at my cost.
Now I kinda regret it.
Luckily he’s a good customer of mine.
Someday I might get some Recaro Sporster seats.
I’ll definitely go with Planted mounts!
Removed seats, console, mirror & center stack, then we wrestled with the GMG WC harness bar, installed a new 997 shifter & waiting on the center console delete before installing the lwb�s and the gt3 harnesses.
If I knew then what I know now, would I still do this? Probably.
Good thing my buddy is factory trained and thinks through the process.
Well, removing the rear seats negated my pandemic weight gain�
Confirms the build sheet that she was a Canadian delivery.
don�t bother calling GMG for installation instructions, Dominique(?) told me they don�t have any for the 996 WC bar. Be very careful when rotating the bar back, it can scuff the headliner (unless the scuff is too deep, you can carefully sandpaper them out).
Cool bar and smart on the ratchet strap, had to do the same thing on my RSS - roll bars are very high up on my pain in the *** install list.
Solid work.
I doubt I'll ever remove the interior from tha back of my car.
That would require removing and re-installing my RSS rollbar.
That thought makes me shudder!
Finally got my “forever” seats installed and set-up. Big thanks to
@Tom Loder
for the hook up on the seats and the reco on P1 Designs for the inserts to match my color scheme. Apologies for the iPhone/messy garage/winter storage photos.
When I purchased (Corbeau Black/Gray lasted 6 years, 5 hard track years)
996 GT3 Seats from Tom Black/Yellow
Switched out the inserts, via P1 Designs (Incredible customer service and prompt parts making)
Thanks Z, Tex and 168, had to break the piggy bank, but love them so far. With the 996 values drifting up, felt good to get some OEM seats back in play!
Looks like you got it done, but I�ll share my experience.
I discovered that with the Porsche bar, which this looks similar to, you lay it in with the top of the hoop in the back and pull it towards the front, while scooting the legs backward into place. It went in like butter, and I was able to remove it myself. The other trick I found was to use grade 8 threaded rod instead of bolts for the front mount, which allows you to thread the rods through the large openings without cross threading and then slide the bushing over the rod, and then double nut the rod.
Raised with liftbars and feeling safe under beefy Harbor Freight stands. Getting ready to replace leaking reservoir, water pump of unknown age, and thermo (installing low temp). Using garden hose gonna try to backflush case, radiators, and heater core. For coolant pink Zerez G40 Porsche approved.
I know recall of Harbor Freight stands but different part number than the ones I have.
Taught my 19 year old daughter to drive a clutch in my 996. She did great, 45 minutes only one stall and very few jumpy starts. Moved from a lot to the street and she drove us home. Learned that the 996 is a great forgiving car for those learning to drive a manual. More lessons to come before she can try out my S2000 and NSX.
Not a major one. 10 minute work with Covid in my body.. I changed Front Hood Strut, I wanted to change the rear one but be aware. apparently it is not the same to the Convertible as the others.. So i need to return the wrong and and wait for the correct!
�Take care all!
Transmission mount the cushioning material is almost completely gone and looks like bolt is floating in the bushing. Seems like should have been large vibrations but car ran fine and I only noticed a slight vibration off idle then mild harshness at mid RPMs.
Automatic transmission so will purchase the bracket instead of pressing out and in new bushings.
JMELZER, while you've got the front bumper cover off, reroute the frunk latch cable to the tow hook hole. A month ago, my alternator went kaput so dead battery, which would have made it tough to open the frunk if I hadn't moved the cable.
Wow, good call!
Hopefully he hasn't put it back together yet.
@JMELZER, you can see the cable in your third pic running between the latch and the right headlight housing. For reference, see the red arrow in my pic taken before I relocated the cable.
I picked up a used(but looks new) GT3 foam and carpet.
It replaces the foam that resides in the spare tire.
Now I have a spot for my compressor & toolset and more.
I can carry most of the tools that used to reside in a bag in my frunk.
nice way to eliminate the spare tire, which won’t fit on my car with the big brake kit.
Porsche toolkit, warning triangle, air compressor, tire sealant, and a few extras.
Everything nicely hidden.
Today it really hit my how much I love my 996. I don�t drive it often, but today I took it out twice for errands around town. Even in mundane city driving, this car really shines. You know it�s a hell of a car when it�s fun driving it slow.
It just feels special. It�s 21 years old, but still feels tight (despite a few creaks) and the interior is really a nice place to be (despite some cheap plastics). It�s hard to describe, but it just has a lot of character. I want to keep this thing forever
Hello everyone.
I am engaged in the construction of the project 996 + audi 2.7 turbo engine.
Can someone help with the detail? Dimensions are needed for the manufacture of the selector rod.
Length between points.
The ideal result is a drawing ))))
^^This is what you did to your 996 today? Most of us just run errands, go to work, or travel to some spectacular scenic place. You will get better results starting a new thread with your issues.
Ohlin's are finally in! Amazing difference, even before balancing and alignment. To be fair, anything replacing the 20 year old leaky system would be a significant improvement
The stock Ohlin's height dropped the car 30mm from the starting height. I must've gotten something wrong. They claim it should be 20mm. It was way too low. 9+ turns up(each corner a little different) and the height comes into line. Currently set to X74 height.
Ohlin's set to X74 height: 127mm rear, 117mm front(it actually ended up at 121)
Expecting a very different appearance when I finally get the GT3 wheels on it.
After Ohlin's
Old stock suspension
Got it onto the scales to start corner balancing
It's a balancing act
Sorry, I have the scales set to read in kg
1 turn RR comin' up...
Corner balance and string alignment tomorrow. From the numbers, it looks like I'll need maybe 1 turn to push up the RR to get the corner balance to 50. We will see...
It's nice to have some time to spend working on it. I've had the Ohlin's for over a year!
Early in the morning went out to do a grocery store run. Spent the day watching football, prime brisket burgers. Between games went out for a liquor 🥃 run. Decided to invent the 300 steps program. Smoked 6 lb prime rib for Sunday, more football. Stay tuned soul headers going in this week.
Had to buy 24 pack toilet paper in case I soil my pants driving it fast.
If you guys haven�t tried these HEB burgers pretty good, prime beef with brisket fat, pretty good blend if you ask me.
Had to say hello to a good ole family member, only a little bit left, this one tastes a lot better as you go down the bottle.
Bourbon 🥃, Wild Turkey 101 rye good price $15, early times cheap and early when I start smoking meats at 2-3 am.
AA has the 12 step program, mine is better, 300 steps, from my car to the door of the liquor 🥃 store.
Smoking 6 lb prime rib roast for today�s football games. Have to go with my homie fellow TTU grad Mahomes.
Papas, bacon, scrambled eggs and tortillas with avocado sauce for breakfast. Smoked prime rib roast for the rest of day.
Are you ready for some football??,
OK, some luck with corner balancing and camber setting, but some questions remain. We are at 50!
This is the first time I've tried this. Yesterday, I couldn't get to 50. I got stuck at 51. So I went to the infinite data source and read maybe 8 or 9 different descriptions of corner balancing online. There are super detailed descriptions, fluffy no info descriptions, but only one had the info I needed: weight change per turn. It turns out I wasn't being aggressive enough in changing height. I also wasn't jouncing the suspension enough between changes. So, today I rotated right rear up 3 turns and left rear down 4 turns. Drove it through my engine break-in hill set and remeasured. One weird thing, overall weight today is 8kg less than yesterday. I did not use 8kg of gasoline driving around. It was colder today, maybe the scale cal is affected by temp. I measured 4 times yesterday and was always within 0.5kg. Curious. Adjustable drop links were disconnected through the process. Driver weight was added to the car when setting the drop link lengths.
Camber set to X74 settings: -0.5 front, -1.6 rear. Didn't get to set the toe today. The car drives fantastic already. I can push it around with no weird hopping or squatting effects. It carves turns really well. I think the plan is, get the toe done, drive 200 miles to let the springs settle, then double check the corner balance. Rinse, repeat.
And the consolation prize: Christmas gift Coco mats came yesterday! Woohoo! (no comments about the foam in the vents,, the job is nearly to the top of the todo list)
Drive on!
sorry i bought the car like that. What I would think it was one of the good ones, because all the other mods were expensive. you may want to initiate a a new thread here. The front bumper is also modified a fellow rennlister identified as tech art. I have never checked but maybe the ducktail is also Tech art.
sorry i bought the car like that. What I would think it was one of the good ones, because all the other mods were expensive. you may want to initiate a new thread here. The front bumper is also modified a fellow rennlister identified as tech art. I have never checked but maybe the ducktail is also Tech art.
You'd think using the Ignore feature on people would help, but there's literally no escape from his utterly useless posts. It's beyond annoying at this point. Thank God he can't post pictures on BAT.
Good alignment shops will place dead weight equal to your body weight when doing corner balancing to compensate for that. Good observation though. Otherwise it would be as useless as when some manufacturers providing dry weight for a car.
Corner balance is (LR+RF)/TOTAL. The drivers weight will add to the LR & LF. The corner balance may or may not change with driver weight. It depends where the weight is in between the front and rear tires along with the weighting of the car front to back. In my case, the balance didn't change. Adjusting the sway bar with weight in the car(99kg) is a detail that is likely only felt by a precious few drivers (not me)
The bigger question that gets argued about is whether any of this is necessary for a street car. I won't try to answer that. But, it's something I wanted to learn about. Turns out it's not terribly difficult to do if you have coil-overs that allow for easy adjustment.
Due to the fact mine is buried (car covered of course) in snow until at least the end of March, I've been purchasing and preparing for hibernation exit. I bought two new motor mounts and an LN spin on oil filter adapter. I also bought a 7 inch portable Apple Carplay screen. Wireless as well. Having 5 cars, I'll be able to easily take it with me in whatever car I'm choosing to drive that day (which will mostly be the 996 when weathe allows). It can be mounted like how the old GPS units used to be and is also a Bluetooth transmitter. Easy to use, it's a great unit and perfect solution if you don't want to replace the factory radio.
I'm also going to start deep cleaning the already very nice hollow spoke Turbo wheels I picked up in the fall. They are satin black in the center with silver lip..will likely ceramic coat them as well.
I really can't wait for spring!
Tonight I installed my Soul Sport Cats that I received a couple of weeks ago.
They’re MUCH lighter than the factory cats.
They’re almost as light as my old Fabspeed cat-less x-pipe.
The build quality of the soul exhaust is exceptional.
I saw a set of Soul headers and sports cats last week and the headers are nice as well.
I also I stalled some new hood shocks tonight.
Fun story - went for a drive with the local P-club Saturday and brought along some cupcakes to give out at the start of the drive.
Not too many folks ate them, so I put them back in the frunk.
Forgot all about them, drove over 250 miles at some xxx speeds and through some twisty-twisty roads all day.
When I got home I figured the frunk would have melted icing all over...HA! They were still in perfect shape!
Photo to prove it...
The bung looks normal to me.
No CELs experienced when I took it for a drive to my mother-in-laws house today.
The sound...every bit as good as my previous Fabspeed x-pipe.
I'm SO happy to have great sound again!
We tried to install the soul headers. On one side passenger side no
issues. Driver side
one bolt broke, another one was missing, a third was ok, don�t know the situation of the other 3. We decided to bolt it back
up and leave to my mechanic.
The one that broke like half of it. The missing one is still in there.
Wonder how much power I�m going to get out of these??
Anyway soul headers are real pretty, these ones have less than 1,000 miles on them. Friend has a set of sport cat soul pipes
same 1,000 miles, pretty golds color available for sale.
My IMS solution showed up today�this is my first time seeing this kit in person and I�ll say, I�m impressed with the quality. Appointment is on Valentines Day of all days to be installed. Excited.
I
Here's an update on my GT3 trunk foam update.
I saw that SunCoast had the factory tire sealant and a Porsche first aid kit.
Unfortunately the dimensions on the first aid kit were larger than the space in the foam, but I figured I could trim the foam slightly and make it fit, so I ordered it.
When it came in I waited until I had time to do the trimming, and what do you know, it fits without any trimming!
Here's my updated picture:
All hidden
Why is it the one in the middle looks so much better? I have really grown to love the headlights and how the car narrows up front compared to the newer models.
Now I am intrigued to look at the actual dimensional differences. Ive always heard the newer ones are "larger" but here it looks quite dramatic. Nice shot!
Whoa what an angle. Not liking the lines of the 992 AT ALL! Middle and right are smoking!
Wish the turbo was back a little so we could see it's face better
I was a little late thinking of the snap and the sun started dropping below Race Control. The 991.2 Turbo S is a ‘pretty face’ with beautiful nose job. That car and the 360 Modena are the ultimate “Sorry honey, but I’m taking home the car…not you”, super models to me.
Finally replaced the sunroof seal. I would have done it earlier, but one of the DIY threads on it said it took no more than an hour each to remove and reinstall so I thought it was a bigger job than it was. I also bought a trim tool like the DIY thread recommended. Well, in reality it took about 1 minute to remove and five minutes to install the new one. I probably could have done it by hand and a flathead screwdriver for a couple of spots. Very easy.
The car is much quieter on the highway now. It was extremely windy before. The new seal had a felt like texture on the sealing side. My old one was completely smooth and rubber feeling to the touch.
Coolant tank was leaking and mount bushes were disintegrated and amazingly transmission was just laying inside of the large circles.
This is how a Gen 2 Tiptronic mounts to the chassis. I could not get the mount lined up so the side bolts would start because I could not see down the hole. Then the Holy Spirit gave me the brilliant idea to insert my boroscope in the hole and then adjusting the jack height and prying the mount I could see the hole line up with the threads, and the bolt slipped right in.
Bit the bullet and ordered a gt3 console delete. ECS has a February 11th estimated ship date, so we�ll see if they�re actually off of back order or not!
It's good that you caught the worn out trans mount. A worn out front mount has been tied to damaging the Tip "transfer case" which is the part on the front of the trans that turns the power 180*.
With transmission floating in metal bracket I'm surprised there wasn't major bangs or vibrations. Symptoms that are gone is light engine vibration when passing about 1000 RPM, and a mild whining when going around a turn with accelerator pressed down.
Dejeeper I do love the look of my car but now I can literally have 2 different looks from the same car with a switch of bumpers
I know the water in Delaware isn’t treated so I’ll let it slide LOL
no seriously the cost of and finding aero parts are astronomical so to get stock and white one under 2k was a slam dunk for me and the money I saved from buying a new one means I can get a LN solution installed as well as a guard lsd installed from the savings
I drink alone, with nobody else.
Hoestly i dont have or have ever had any social media accounts so the whole "like" thing escapes me. Zbomb tried to teach me but it went over my head
.
Spent the last couple of days at my mechanic. Work was being done to my friends 993. I learned a bit about these cars they are a complete different animal. I was the cook and driver for a couple Of days, car is still there, power steering pump is being rebuilt, I�ll go back taking my friend to pick up his car and leave mine to take care of the headers . I�m beat, finishing the day by rewatching Gone in sixty, the first car in the movie is a silver ambers 996, the cars name Tina.
993 on the lift.
Day one food. Nolan Ryan prime Ribeyes. McCormicks Montreal steak dry brine.
Had to smoke a jalape�o garlic beef, pork sausage.
Engine is out .
This air cool is a different animal, double distributors 12 plugs.
A Millenium edition, 930 turbo with 25k miles, going in for a bunch of work. Since my truck was there, I sprayed some CRC GDI to get whatever carbon buildup was there at 25k miles.
Seats on the 930 are in awesome shape.
Today�s food, chicken wings. Blue cheese dressing carrots and celery. 2 flavors, red dragon (spicy general tsaos), raging Cajun.
Drove it to run a few errands, trip to total wine and more, yes I hit supersonic twice, that 104 octane really makes a difference. Anyway I also bought some high octane stuff for myself, just in case we get the same power outtages we got last year.
Some high octane stuff just in case.
I been hunting for this old gran dad 114 for a while. I got the last bottle in the store. I�m surprised at what they were selling it for $17.99, I�m not freezing 🥶 my a?? This year in case we lose power, I�ll be niece and warm inside.
yeah like Tom cruise busting the tower. 3 digits, highest yet had a 1 and a 6 on it in that order. Maybe for entertainment once I get done with the mods I�ll take to the Texas mile to see what it can do.
eat what you want drink what you want. We all came from ashes and we are going to go back to ashes again. Only guarantees in life you are going to pay taxes and One day you are going to die.
I added Rennline Carbon Fiber mirrors.
They look great!
They're lighter, but not a whole lot.
4.5 ounce difference per mirror:
126 grams difference per mirror:
The weight difference is NOT worth it, but the looks difference sure is!
I put off ordering the cheap carbon fiber mirrors covers for MANY months, then 2 days before Rennline released these I ordered a set.
When Rennline released the entire mirror in carbon fiber, I jumped at it!
Less than 1/2 the Porsche price.
The cheap chinese covers should be here in a few days if anybody wants to go the cheap route.
The weight difference for most CF parts is always negligible at best, BUT like you said, the look is so much better. CF on SG just
fits
so well.
Also, vaguely recall you might wanting the LED tails I purchased a while back, if you're still interested I may be going back to stock soon and you can have first dibs. Still pretty much like new, just let me know.
After some years of slow cranking (or no cranking!) hot starts (and driving around with jumper cables in my trunk), I finally replaced the starter and the starter Y-cable. The difference is amazing!!! I should not have waited so long.
San Jose, CA has pretty mild weather, and I don't live near the beach, so my theory was that the starter itself was bad and not the Y-cable. But turns out the Y-cable was bad, see image below.
Got the starter for $221 on
amazon
amazon
and the Y-cable from my dealer who matched $59 internet pricing.
Not a bad day! Oh, other than the fact that in the process of the above I broke the end of the oil filler tube off of the corrugated part. Dang brittle old plastic.
But I used a hack from this forum (
here
) with a rubber pipe coupling (1 1/2" to 1 1/14") to get me up and running until I can get the real part installed (maybe when my alternator dies?).
Next job: replace my leaking evaporator/housing. That is NOT going to be as easy as this.
Went to look at a
pretty speed yellow Carrera 4S with a friend. Then to my mechanic to continue work on the 95 993. Off course ribs. we sat down to eat and the mechanic wife made some side dishes. No better way to spend a Saturday.
That�s a nice looking a???.
Super nice interior seats have deviated stitching, yellow seatbelts.
Ribs
Car is on the showroom floor. Battery was dead. Aftermarket bumper. Also for whatever reason on both sides there are gaps between front of the doors and front fenders something feels off. On the driver side the plastic covering the front wheel well is busted, this car hit or run over something, car fax it�s clean. Didn�t have time to test drive it. Will be test driving it this week.
Yesterday, I took it to Cars & Coffee then replaced the front side markers, cigarette lighter and socket, tag lights, rear seatbelt buckle, serp belt, air filter, cowl panel, and cabin filter.
Today I'm planning to replace the ignition switch and maybe more - we'll see how far I get. Figured out I probably can't do the engine mounts in the driveway, but we'll see.
Replaced the crankshaft position sensor yesterday. I had been experiencing a seemingly random, engine warm, no start problem. It is a pretty easy little project. When I fed the extensions and 5 mm hex socket to the bolt head, it looked like a universal should be used. I went back to the cabinet and was dismayed to see the 3/8� universal�s home spot was empty. So, I slid under the car again without it. Turns out it was not really needed. The bolt removal went smoothly. FCP has a good video on YT that gave me a great preview of the project. Note to self, replace the 3/8� universal joint.
Once replaced, the car cold started perfectly as it usually does. I took the car for an hour plus drive, then returned home and parked it. 20 minutes later, the car started perfectly. I shut it down again and then let it sit for another 40 minutes. It started perfect again. I waited another hour and tried it again. Another perfect start.
One thing I noted about the old CPS was that the end was completely covered with a mass fine metal. I wonder if cleaning it off would have done the trick also. Regardless, hopefully replacing the CPS did the trick.
Installed a roof rack and bike rack today.
If you�re wondering what that decal on the side is, it�s a new shop logo (I own a bike shop) that is obviously taking inspiration from a certain crest 😂.
The design represents our identity pretty accurately. We�re a high-end bicycle boutique and both my business partner and I love Porsches. We have the penny-farthing hanging outside of our shop, the girl blowing the dandelion is a mural on the side of our building we had done, the polka dots is the climber�s jersey for the Tour de France that we incorporate into our jerseys, and the landscape is our landscape here in NC/SC.
Very cool! I need to do this to my 40AE this spring and am planning to paint match it.
Awesome to see another 40AE and a bike nut, like myself! I've been using the sea sucker with pretty good results so far. No issues at 80mph
Just need to get a better photo with my new Factor One bike. This one is when I just picked it up. Kind of wish I found it in silver to match the car ha! Might need to send you a PM about one of those P car crest decals! Happy to rep it around DC.
Shoot me a PM, I'll gladly toss some in the mail for ya. The only reason I didn't go sea sucker is my detailer would kick my ***. The car's been ceramic coated and realistically, I'd probably never take the sea sucker off, much like I'll never take these racks off.
Usually when I get that question on the street, I respond back "I left it on your mom's night stand."
I'm with you 100%. I did my own paint correction and ceramic coating last summer and am pretty ocd about keeping it clean. I just carry some microfiber towels and a Optimum No Rinse solution with me and always do a quick wipe down before installing. Luckily 90% of my riding is local.
Took delivery of it back from Charles Ivey, only minutes ago..!
Complete Front End Paint..
..and thought I'd get the Centre Console done to match "whilst it was in there"..
When doing a job such as AOS I modify/fabricate small tools, and when changing oil filler tube for same reason as yours, I had to remove alternator couldn't figure another way to access 2 bolts at bottom.
Participated in a winter rally. Roads finally cleared up. Felt good to stretch the legs a bit. Everytime I get behind the wheel of this thing I am always blown away by how good it is to drive.
I've been picking up cycling as a hobby lately. I just "upgraded" to speed play pedals with some Fizik shoes so that I can go further into the mountains. I'm now reaching 20-25 mile rides about 3-4x per week with my eyes on the 30's. VERY hilly where I ride (background of my avatar.) Shame we live so far away from each other. When I need a new bike I will hit you up Nate so we can keep it in the 996 family. Assuming you can get one to me in NV?
This is very cool and it's all about consistency with riding. I use both pedal styles but generally prefer speedplay pedals. It's one of those things where if you can ride 25 miles, you can probably do 40. And if you can do 60, a 100 is within reach too! Hills are good and build character on the bike. I always said that riding uphill is a great equalizer. Doesn't matter who someone is off the bike - going up hill we're all suffering hah!
Yeah man, I can definitely do that. We have a few customers accross the country. We have some that drive 2 hours to us for us to do their maintenance cause they don't trust anybody locally
As for riding distances, I always tell people "it's not hard to ride 100 miles....but it is hard to ride it fast." It's all relative, you'll learn that distances are only used for a metric of how far you've gone and how much you enjoy it, not really your fitness level... If you have a good bike fit and fuel yourself correctly on the bike, the only thing that should make you want to get off the bike is boredom and/or just not wanting to be on a bike anymore, not because you can't keep going.
Not sure about any other bikes, but the Bromptons didn't fit in my frunk. I tried that first and they wouldn't fit, so I tried the back and they went in perfectly. I was surprised. Don't quote me, but I think the Bromptons might fit if you remove the saddles.
Replacing the starter and the starter cable was WAY easier than I expected. Note that I have a 2004 C4S 996.2. It's possible the 996.1 is different. Key points:
I only had to remove the air box, throttle body and plenum. I've done this a few times before so it was easy.
Tip on reinstalling the plenum: there are little raised lines on the plenum indicating where the rubber boots should line up. If you don't line up the boots to these lines, you might have a huge vacuum leak and the engine will run like crap. Ask me how I know.
The lower starter bolt that everyone complains about was not hard. You just have to do things blind by feel. I used a regular 15mm socket with a 3/8" universal joint and like 18+" of extensions (maybe 24"?). Came out easy and went back in easy.
I did not have to remove the alternator to undo +12V starter cable connection. A regular 13mm socket on a regular 3/8" ratchet worked, you just have to do things blind by feel.
I did not have to remove power steering reservoir (like the Bentley manual says). I'm not sure why the manual says that. Maybe for a 996.1?
I did not have to loosen the AC pump to fish through the starter cable. (The potential need for this is obvious when you unbolt the starter cable from the alternator, starter and +12V post bracket.). I used the hot water technique posted on this forum
here
and it worked great. I boiled a pot of water, brought it out to the car, stuck it in the engine compartmer and softened up the plastic. This made it easy to use 2 screwdrivers to remove the plastic shroud from the cable and then fish the cable out. Same pot of water worked to remove the plastic shroud from the new cable. Then I fished the new cable through, pressed it into the bracket with pliers, and remounted on the bracket. Easy peasey.
To disengage the little clip on the starter cable from the bracket on the block, press in the little center circle with a screwdriver or a punch.
I hate removing the dang MAF connector, it makes me ashamed of my grip strength every time because I find it impossible to press and disengage the little tab. Maybe mine is just really tight. I just end up removing the whole MAF with the security torx bit and disengaging it when it's easy to see what to press.
I see you're in Danville. Happy to talk shop anytime!
Yes! All-in for custom parts and fixes. (Ask my Familt how much hobby fun I have with my 3D printer!) I was glad I could get the car back up and running on the same day by hacking a fix vs having the car down for the count waiting for parts. New oil filter tube has been ordered. Will look for a convenient time to install. The AC evaporator dominates my thinking/planning now. Ugh.
How do you remove the saddle? I tried just yanking it and there is something keeping the post from going all the way out. With the space saver spare removed, the saddle is the only thing getting in the way of it fitting in the frunk.
A Bike Friday packiT looks slightly more compact, but from searching the web I only see pictures of them in 997 and 987 which would also fit a Brompton. If I need to drop off the car somewhere and run errands I just go with the handy dandy razor scooter...better than walking. Between folding bike and e-scooter I think the e-scooter is better. Lighter, easier to fit, twist the throttle and rip.
You have to use an Allen key to remove the saddle and the seat post drops out from the bottom. You can�t pull the seat post out from the top because it�s flared at the bottom.
On Monday I test drove the 03 speed yellow 4s. Ride was good, battery is bad, ac does not blow. The sales manager drove my car and offered $21k for it. He agreed I could remove my aftermarket parts (exhaust, headers, x pipe) and my 408s. I have access to a set of 17 cup wheels with new rubber. Then to my mechanic to finish my friends 993. That was a lot of work 4 full days and whatever the mechanic did while we were not there. We worked till midnight to get the car done. I made a broccoli casserole with rice, cheese that we ate with steaks and sausage. So I had to replenish my freezer again. My car is at the mechanic for header install, threads are bad and some bolts are broken. Got a call yesterday from the salesman for the 4S, i told him the test drive was good, good sounding exhaust, need new battery, the ac has to be fixed (or they have to drop the price), i want more money for my car. Stay tune, for now I want to get my car back.
Broccoli cheese rice casserole, good with steaks and sausage.
My friend and mechanic working on a few things at same time.
Late at night 993 is done out of the garage, my car finally going in.
Had to restock my freezer
The interior on that 4S is pristine. It has a few mechanical issues and I ain�t buying before scoping the bores and negotiating a better deal.
There are body gaps about equal on both sides of the front fender, door line. I�m also going to get that check out. Monday was my first time driving
a 996 4S. I test drove a 997.1 C4S and I didn�t liked it at all. This one I liked but it felt light in the front so maybe the front differential was removed.
they call me back every few days. They agreed to a ppi in their shop, they�ll put it on a rack. I seen some were no inspections are allowed. Let�s see how this ends up.
Alignment makes a huge difference on 4S's or any AWD 911. Mine before alignment felt like the front end was driving me, I didn't know any better thought it was how a 4S feels. Now that it is been done properly the turn in is quit sharp and direct, much lighter feel. Whole new car.
i like the drive. My issue is the body gaps between the front fender and door they are not flushed. Also the fact that the fender liner on the driver side is trashed worries me that this car had some kind of issue.
I got my car back earlier this week from the shop, and they did some stuff while they had the car:
Refinished the wheels and put on new Michelin Pilot Sport 4s
Added 7mm/15mm Elephant Racing wheel spacers
Installed Numeric short shift kit and cables
I did some more stuff yesterday!
Installed clear side markers
Installed Numeric pedal kit
The center caps were taken off when the wheels were refinished, and I haven�t put them back on yet. I�m considering ordering some full color Porsche emblem centers instead of the carerra 4 ones I have.
I love the Numeric shifter and cables, it went from rubbery and long to bolt rifle precise with very short throws. I can�t speak to any other SSK or the install process since I had Steinels Autoworks do it for me, but I would highly recommend it if you�re considering one.
Getting new tires put on today.
Also, I have a rattly cat and center top sensor is bad. Needless to say I can live without these being repaired for a little while longer...
Got the front seatbelts rewebbed, and then front sports seats were recovered. I also FINALLY found a graphite grey leather 3-spoke wheel thanks to a member here, and I'll be installing it shortly
Car should hopefully be out from paint in the next month, so I'll be posting the final details.
-Matt
I took mine for a drive this morning.
First drive in almost 3 weeks. (Stupid COVID)
When I got back, it went on the QuickJacks so I can finally do my last oil change before the engine rebuild.
Ran out of steam(stupid COVID) so the oil change will happen later this afternoon…hopefully before the oil cools completely.
Edited: Got the oil changed. Most likely the last oil change for the 996 until early next year.
Last night, I got mine up on jack stands and under it for the first time. I had to go out and buy a new jack since mine wasn't low enough and long enough. Can't wait until I get a lift! Anyway, I got the rear sway bar bushings and drop links replaced and changed the engine and gear oil. It was 34 out this morning, and I took it for a test drive and the shifting was much smoother, especially when cold.
They�re awesome!
Really lightweight and in GT3 widths. (8.5� F and 11� R)
I kept my Carrera IIs as a spare set.
Since my 17� temporary spare won�t fit on the front of my 996 with the big brake kit, it�s nice to have a spare set of wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires just in case.
Bruce hang in there. Al was extremely great full for your help, hopefully you�ll get feeling 100 soon. I went to cars and coffee here in Katy, not in my car still at the mechanic for headers, stupid broken bolts. Anyway then I pick up my buddy and we went on a road trip to see the black 99 factory aero for sale on pcar. Anyway Bruce sorry you couldn�t make it, as always we had a great time. Finally lunch at a cool burger 🍔 spot and yes 🍺 ipas. Love my porsche Saturdays.
Porsche limousine is a gts cool grocery getter family car.
Low turnout at cars and coffee only 6 cars, weather wasn�t good.
1/2 lb prime burger yellow and white American cheese, chipotle Mayo, bacon jam, caramelized onions and gouldens spicy mustard.
New Belgium Voodoo ranger juicy hazy ipa 🍺 to go along, I�m on a diet so no French fr�es 😂
Finishing up at my local watering hole. The wild wing cafe a few more beers and picking up marinades for the super bowl Sunday wings. Also some homemade blue cheese dip. This place has 39 wing flavors and makes all the marinades and dressings in house. This is the only one in Texas.
when I first started working for Conoco in Ponca City Oklahoma 1991 they only have 3.2 percent beer, tell me about something tasting like water. Used to drive to Wichita Kansas to
buy 4.2 🍺. No IPAs with 7.5 percent alcohol. The coolest thing about Ponca is that it had 3 lakes one within 10 minutes of my house. First big thicket item I bought 91 sea doo Spx highly modified flame graphics on it. Got pull up by the lake patrols few times by no respecting the non wake zone, I guess I saw the signs and thought the same I think today about the 75 mph speed limit. Anyway getting ready for some football.
Ribs for latter on. Working on the veelveta queso now, new trick using jimmy dean hot sausage, instead of ground beef.
RE: Numeric� Oh no, I�ve had mine for few years (3 or 4�) and I installed it w/cables myself. The most difficult part of the install is the rubber bung where the cables pass through the floor. Your description is spot on - night and day difference from stock shifter (or any of the incremental changes I went through before biting the bullet and getting the numeric shifter).
Think I earned a merit badge. Not perfect, but overall happy with my first attempt at working with leather. Can we call this the first leather GT3 console delete?
That's the way it's supposed to look - You should give Porsche a ring and let them know.
After seeing what you have going on in the interior in person, I am pretty jazzed to see the finished product. I think it will serve as a nice road map for others looking to streamline the interior to suit the driving experience without sacrificing amenities, thats a hard task to pull off but you are well on your way.
Oh nice, that was going to be my next question re: widths. I just feel bad since I've got My Carrera II's, and apparently those are pretty darn lightweight. Have you compared the HLT to the Carrera II's re: weight? I currently have:
2x Sets of 18" Turbo Twist
1x Set Carrera II LW
1x Set OEM GT3 Mk 2 Rims
Just wondering if I should go for the HLT's and maybe powdercoat in a really fun colour...
-Matt
Carrera II
Front 18x7.5" 20.5lbs
Rear 18x10" 22.7lbs
OZ Allegerita HLT
Front 18x8.5" 18lbs
Rear 18x11" 21lbs
Basically it's slightly less weight as the 996 17" wheels, but larger 18" GT3 sizes.
looks great. Did you wrap the oem parts or fab something yourself?
@yaz996
how is the surface under the carpet ? I�ve got a painted center console and think it would look good with it painted to match.
I put "new" 18" wheels on my 996 last weekend.
Looks good I think. I had the BBS GT3 wheels, but they need a refurb so that's why I bought these.
I am in no hurry with the GT3-wheel refurb as I think these wheels look very nice and are also more practical (easy to wash :-) )
Thanks brother. I've dropped some clues here and there, but you're the only one who's seen the overall picture at this point. I'm excited to get it finished, and share the details with everyone. I'll start a new thread soon.
I wrapped the OEM parts. Biggest issue I see with trying to paint it would be the gaps. The plush carpet fills in the gaps between the main and side pieces, and they probably open up an 1/8" or so with the switch to leather. Not that noticeable, but I'm thinking about adding another layer of leather to close that up.
I'm glad I did this job myself, but I'd suggest contacting your local pro. Sourced the leather myself from GAHH, but was going to have my local guy do the work. When I stopped by to drop off parts, he said he was too backed up to take on additional work.
https://gahh.com/salerno-leather-971...ver-gray-sq-ft
Minimum order was 25 sq ft (they'll do a smaller quantity but it gets more expensive quick because it's then priced by the sq in). I do have leftovers I'd be willing to sell.
New headlight switch, finished up the new short shifter.
Much better shift feeling.
I used the Mercedes Benz headlight switch. no difference that I could detect from the OEM one.
$29 from FCP Euro. I figure if it only lasts half as long as the OEM I am still ahead.
Alignment numbers from yesterday! Can anyone tell me if it is a big deal that the right and left front camber/caster is barely outside of "specified range"?
Thanks!
If u r lowered they they may not be able to get the castor in range without adjustable pucks. Again the same.might be true for the camber but it lools like that could be adjusted out. A little extra camber is not really an issue im at -3.2 but thats a track alignment.
Alighnment guys lile to say the "cross" measurent is good so u r fine. I think thats just being lazy.
We�ll, the question becomes; What�s a lot? It�s clearly subjective. I can say that it�s not nearly as much as the black function first bushing inserts (I removed them and replaced with the yellow ones). The shifter itself probably transmits a little more than the stock shift housing (because being billet aluminum it�s much stiffer than the stock plastic), and the Numeric cables are quite a bit larger/stiffer than the stock cables. Overall not too much imo�
^^^^ Agreed. They may be just lazy. Don't worry about the number. The X74 spec is -0.5 for the front. Looks spot on to me.
That said, check the top of the struts. There are slots to allow the camber adjustment. If the mount isn't shifted all the way to the outside, then they are being lazy. If it is all the way outboard, it is likely worn bushings.
I've just put Ohlin's on mine with new top mounts and lowered to the X74 height. The marker lines are where the top mount was when it was set to zero. Now it's set to -0.5. You can see the shift is to the inside.
The crazy problem I have is on the rear. They cannot adjust it to less than -1.8. Spec is -1.5. The adjuster is all the way inboard. So, it's new control arms, dog-bones, and tuning forks coming up.
Is that because they cannot get the rear toe within spec so they needed to add extra camber? If so then a set of rear adjustable toe links are a better fix for the problem. Replacing the control arms with OEM equivalent isn't going to a increase the camber adjustment range unless the old ones are slap worn out. To gain extra camber adjustment GT3 two-piece control arms or adjustable control arms like Elephant Racing are needed.
No. The camber adjust is maxed positive. It can't pull the bottom of the wheel in any further to make more positive camber. I can adjust more negative quite easily. The only way to get to -1.5 was to use the toe adjustment, but then the toe was way off.
I didn't take the arms out to see if the bushes were off-center on the rear. But on the front, they are clearly worn. To be fair, I assumed I would be replacing everything, but wanted to take the interim step to see the effect of the Ohlin's alone. It is really cool to be rid of the nose lift on acceleration. Super sure footed. Turns in way better than before. Driver needed time to catch up to cars new capability. I can't wait to get the wider rubber on the 18" wheels.
Definitely on the slippery slope...
I have the sickness, live in Northern Illinois and it 52 degrees for the first time since December! Ran home at lunch time and put a speed coat of Griots on the car. Back to 19 degrees this morning.
I would not run a carbon hood without hood pins. Have your tech put some aero catch on there, they look race car and will prevent you from a catastrophically bad day if the latch on the hood were to fail, it happens.
Raw carbon hood looks pretty gangster though, with your new bumper... she gonna be pretty fly.
Zbomb definitely going to do this when I get to the body shop while he’s doing my aero bumper
hopefully before I drive up to see you next month
thanks for caring
Cool... Yeah, just one of those things, if it breaks then you're out a hood, windshield and roof at a minimum and maybe a lot worse.
Excited to see the car.
More progress on my interior. Swapped in a X98 parking brake, 997 shifter with bushings from Phenix Engineering, and the remaining granite grey trim. Also working on Carrera GT style shift **** (that will eventually be wood and aluminum).
The suspension and braking refresh project is complete! Entire new OEM suspension kit from FCP Euro including all the coffin arms, trailing arms, dogbones, etc. New tie rod ends, and sway bar drop links, and sway bar bushings all the way around. Koni active struts, with new mounts, bearings, and bumpstops factory springs reused. Brembos completely removed, torn down and chemically stripped. New seals and dust boots and complete cosmetic restoration. Replaced the soft brake lines while all was apart and reinstalled everything with Zimmerman coated rotors and Textar pads. Ordered the Motive brake bleeder and boy did that make the job easy!
While it was in the air and disassembled I scrubbed years of grime out of each wheel well and off the aluminum bearing carriers. I went through A LOT of Simple Green. I can honestly say I'd eat off of any surface at all four corners. All that's left before I reinstall wheels and set it down is to touch up a couple assembly nicks on the calipers, and then a little more cleaning of some other bits underneath: starting with the front air dam I removed in the process and the bottom side of the engine. Just because there's 109k on the odometer, that doesn't mean it has to LOOK it.
Took mine into the City to see some Friends at the Weekend.. Early Saturday morning arrival..
..and late evening departure so nobody else on the Roads in either instance..
How did you get your lettering back on the caliper? I made the mistake of cleaning my calipers with brake clean. Guess what? No more white lettering! Nice work. Should be sweet.
What an exhausting day! Hah... New catalytic converter time. These are from Magna Flow. One of the few CARB approved cats for our car that is actually available. Certainly not as pretty as the Soul Performance pieces,
Persistent P0430 code and Durametric scan shows trailing O2 sensor was following the leading sensor indicating the consumed cat. Here are voltages before and after the replacement. Look at how the gray line follows the orange in the first graph, but does not in the second. Hopefully California is cleaner today than yesterday.
The question I have is about this bung plug on the left hand side of this picture. Does it have any purpose for long term cat function? One of them got boogered up by a bad thread in the new cat. I cleaned up the threads with tap and die, but the plug is only about half the length. The material seems pretty soft.
They're hi temp vinyl stickers off eBay. They are perfect as far as size and font. Porsche screenprinted them - something you're not going to replicate at home. I decided to forego the stencil and paint route because these decals were just so prevalent in the market. It seems to be the more common go-to. One word of caution that I wish I could undo: I painted these with VHT hi temp caliper paint in gloss black and then their gloss clear. The white stickers are in between those two layers as a means to "protect" the vinyl. The sticker vendor said that wasn't necessary but lots of DIY's I watched or read did spray clear over their vinyl stickers.
You're supposed to bake VHT's paint at 200F before you install them if you want it to be impervious to brake fluid. Let me tell you; it worked great. I got some fluid on the back side while reinstalling them and there was zero degradation of the gloss. Here's where the problem comes in. The clearcoat yellowed the slightest bit, thereby yellowing my brand new white stickers. If you didn't see an unbaked one next to a baked one you probably wouldn't know. If I did it all over again I'd put stickers on dead last and if they ever chip, fade, stain - just replace them.
I've had my '01 996 for about a month. This week did the gundo/whatever mod on the mufflers, installed a short shift kit, and removed the helper spring from the clutch pedal. Also waxed the car, and bought a CA Covers car cover for it. For me the sound is just right, a little louder and throatier, sounds awesome above 4k rpm. The clutch has a better feel, I like it. And I really like the feel of the short shift kit, firmer and just the right throw. Ordered some new BBS rims but the fronts are backordered till April.
Those calipers: "chemically stripped" and "complete cosmetic restoratation" - does that mean painted?
I want a garage just so I can spend that much time cleaning it when I'm not driving it.
Yes I made the distinction of chemical stripping vs sandblasting. Yes they were painted but I also replaced the bleeder valves and caps due to rust, replaced the PORSCHE logos, replaced rusty hardware, etc so "complete cosmetic restoration " IMO.
You'll get a lot of time to clean a vehicle with a garage, a daily driver, AND 5-6 months of snow and salty roads.
Spent the day at the mechanic. The soul headers, a low temp thermostat and a new water pump were installed in my car. A lot more work was done on my friends 993, ac is still not 100 correct. Anyway our mechanic is working on a 930 and a 2016 Ferrari F12. If someone trusts him with this Ferrari is just more credibility for him. I cooked Wagyu chuck brisket burgers and Johnsonville beddar cheddars for lunch. Then the wife and son said they wanted to go to hooters last night. What a better way to end the day, bobs, beers and wings. To top it all, that black McLaren was parked in front of the hooters entrance.
The 26k mile millennium is also done.
The 930 is in process.
My car was already done. The 1974 914 911 engine is getting a refresh.
F12 under the car cover.
Burgers for lunch.
My friends 993 it�s giving all kind of ac issues.
My old factory headers which will be going up for sale soon.
We found this black beauty At hooters.
On handicap parking spot!!!
To finish the day, bobs, beer, wings. What a day.
Finally got my oil change in, was a few months late and so far under ownership its been every 6 months on the dot. Wasn't happy with what I found, should I just throw my car out? Doesn't seem magnetic. Didn't see any glitter at the bottom or in the oil filter itself when I pulled it apart. Just these pieces.
There was a little black plastic, the biggest I found was def plastic. The other stuff didn't move or catch with a magnet. But they sort of look like metal flakes to me? Maybe I am being paranoid.
motoo - You should push the car out to the side of the road on trash day. Leave the keys in it and it should get picked up. It�s done. Stick a fork in it. What day is trash day? Just curious.
Check cam deviations. Looks like guide pad wear material.
This looks fairly minimal so I wouldn't worry too much. I'd do the next oil change at 3k miles and see what things look like. Also, if you have access to a Durametric, I'd check your cam deviations. Could be the chain guides but the cam deviation will let you know how bad, if bad at all.
Appreciate that, might have to take you up on it!
Thanks for the info.
Wonder if it will fit in the Bagster I have for my basement clean out. Might be over the weight limit.
Took her out of New England hibernation for a wash and drive. 70 degrees today with 12" of snow coming tomorrow and Friday. One more cruise with the Mrs. to make sure everything dries and then back under the cover until end of March/April. Ran like a top! Of course as soon as I finished washing her the cold front came through and it poured! No problem.
Point Judith. Very pretty spot. However, the best view has an impossibly bumpy road....I wonder which way the car should point in a picture like this. Any ideas?
This was my biggest fear.
IMS Bearing was done a few years ago. Haven't noticed anything in the oil before but there is a first time for everything lol
Or in my case: "What did you do to someone else's 996 today?"
Halfway through the Install of Retrofitlab's 996.1 bi-LED kit.Also replaced the internal harness (that suffered insulation cancer) and rubber seal (that came off in 25 pieces) and finally restored the lens to its former glory.
^^^ Nice job! What do you charge for a job like that?
* and what did you use for a new rubber seal (I assume you�re talking about the one around the outside of the light that butts against the fender/light surround).
So the kit just slides into the original headlights? Cool, I'd love to see this when completed...
I have Mk 1 headlamps and it's like driving with candles at night....
-Matt
the way you have it, so it looks like it's sucking the landscape along in its wake, rather than fighting it (I said "landscape" because I wasn't sure what the tall grass was
)
What an excellent observation!!!! I didn't see that.
In a world I once professionally lived, everything moved to the left in models or renditions.
And yes, it is landscape near the Pt. Judith Coast Guard station, which is out of the picture to the left.
I'll send you a PM so I don't get in trouble for advertising outside my vendor account!
On the halogen 996.1 headlioghts, installing the kit requires you to remove the lenses from the housing. The 996.1 Litronic or any 996.2 kit can be installed through the "back door" in the housing.
As for the seal, as most of you probably know, Porsche doesn't sell these seals as after market parts, just like they don't sell the headlight internal harness.
I found a fairly good replacement using an off-the shelf product that I will offer as an add-on to the Retrofitlab kits I sell. Please excuse me for not sharing that information here.
For more info please visit my vendor thread here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/vendor-a...l#post17839772
We finally warmed up from the teens to the high 20s, low 30s, so I got out to the garage for about an hour and got a little work done.
Thank you Goatman for posting about removing the clutch helper spring. I thought I was going crazy. I have been driving manual cars since before I had a license and have driven all kinds, new and old, race clutches, etc and I have never had so much trouble with a clutch or killed a car as many times as my 996. I removed it today and the clutch feel is SO MUCH better and the effort isn't bad either. I'd highly recommend everyone do this.
I also got a new air filter in, cleaned the MAF, and cleaned the idle control valve. My idle used to surge a couple hundred RPMs for about 5 seconds after start up and now it is rock steady!
I also got my Rennline phone mount installed. I am very happy with the functionality, but honestly a bit disappointed with the fitment. No matter how I adjusted the mount I could not not get my center console cover to snap back on quite right, I think if the bracket was just a little longer from the flat part to the base of the ball it would make for much better fitment.
I should be getting in a new speaker and spoiler wall on Monday, and that should be the last of the little projects for a while. Both cars could definitely use a wash though.
Are you certain you have that phone holder on as per directions. Something doesn't look right in your pic. Mine went in perfectly but in that closeup you published it doesn't look like the support went in correctly.
It most definitely is installed correctly. I can't imagine it is a wrong bracket even though it looks slightly different than the one in their install video, since it doesn't appear that any of their other brackets look similar. My car is 3/98 and maybe the early interior panel is slightly thicker?
anyone that you know out there in Cali can custom tune our cars??? I have a 3/98 also, I�ll pay whatever it takes to make my car fly, instead of an out of the box tune. Don�t know, but I was thinking about reaching out to gitanny. I wouldn�t mind driving my car to Cali and getting the best custom tune i can get until it blows and then off course is engine rebuilt probably 3.8. Luis from Texas.
I have the Rennline mount and it does not leave a gap like that. The console pad fits flush.
I had a Harvest Gold '72 MGB as my daily for quite a few years, until the rust worm won out.
Cheers for this tidbit. I'm going to be starting my 6 speed swap shortly and was wondering about whether I should omit the helper spring or not. Based on this, I'll leave it out...
Phone mount went in smoothly on my 2004 C4S. See below picture of the install along with a shot of the instructions showing bracket part number PM08. Somehow mine looks a little farther "down" or "in" than yours? If you also have bracket PM08 then I like your theory about the '98 panel being slightly different.
Rennline phone mount did not fit for me either. I couldn't even put the panel back on without damaging the leather... So I didn't.
I ended up loosening the bracket on the phone mount and pulling it out as far as possible from the car... The mounting bracket hole is slotted slightly. I also had to install a washer on the screw or it would bottom out. Only then could I get the panel back on.
My part number for the bracket is PM08, so I think it is likely an early car thing. I did the same thing as Fish, except I didn't need the washer, in order to get my panel to fit back on. I will take some measurements of it later today and post them up, and if anyone with a proper fitting mount wants to post up some measurements as well we can confirm this theory.
They are fun little cars! Mine was my first and only convertible, and was my daily from August until last month when I bought my 996. It was great aside from the heat on a 45 year old convertible leaving something to be desired. That's too bad that rust got the better of yours, thankfully mine is pretty solid, but unfortunately will be getting posted for sale soon. It didn't make the cut for a cross country move.
Glad I could help! You won't be disappointed with this decision!
It looks like a beautiful day in NY! This board has me missing the North East sometimes. The car is looking great! Definitely post up some pics when you get the aero bumper on! Mind sharing the specs on those rims?
Nice day but still cold and the roads have way too much salt still
the rims are Forgeline zxv3 8x18 10.5x18 225/40 285/30 et not exact but I measure 50 front 52 rear I have 8mm/12mm spacers
thanks for the positive feedback
Yeah, the salt is blessing and a curse. It causes cars to rust like nothing else, but out hear in the inland PNW they don't salt and we have to drive on sheet ice in the winter. Back in December we had one day where Spokane PD received more than 100 accident reports in under 12 hours because of ice!
Thanks for sharing your rim specs! Some day I'll drop some real coin on some rims and tires I love, but until the I'll stick with my BBS rims.
The hood VIS light but a bit flimsy I still have to have it reglazed and holes punched for the aero catch pins as the stock mounts don’t give me any confidence
Surprised the rear gap is that far off, not sure how much correcting you'll be able to do. Had a similar issue with the Seibon hood on my 128i ended up just living with it because they refused to exchange it (albeit the gap in the corner on yours seems quite excessive comparatively).
Any pins are necessary, the latch hook on CF hoods are a weak point, have seen one fly up on a highway from not being pinned.
Installed a new wheel. Still need to add a crest to the horn, but I like how it turned out. I have a separate thread with more detail:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...my-wheels.html
Just got the car back from my indy with the first visit of a number of visits that will occur over the next few months.
My 996.2 has 57k miles on it and one of the items I had my shop do was to replace the original engine mounts with Rein mounts. While it was time to replace them, as well as my transmission mounts, I only replaced the engine mounts. The reason was that I wanted to see what the difference would be in (1) shifter feel and (2) engine balance/roll.
Glad I did it this way. The shifter feel is so much tighter, not to mention the balance/roll that I was feeling under heavy acceleration and shifting on a "sweeper" which I tested on a few on-ramps, has pretty much gone away.
Someday I will replace my original shifter with a NM or CAE, but before I do it, I wanted to replace the mounts and see if it made any incremental difference of which it did.
Next one will be the transmission mount after I drive the car with the new engine mounts on the track first.
Also had the shop drop the sump pan (all clear), check the oil and oil filter (all clears), scope the bores (no bore scoring), replace the fuel injectors, and replace the differential and transmission oil. Did a bunch of other minor things such as go thru suspension and brakes to make sure everything was properly functioning. No rebuilds are needed this year, which is good news.
So everything is good. Next visit to my indy will focus on oil and water cooling for the track. This is tricky. Oil cooling solutions depend on where you can fit it and ultimately what we then have to do with water cooling. They are joined at the hip.
Glad everything checked out! The car is looking good! I am very jealous of those brakes!
Also, thanks for sharing the info about the motor mounts and shifter feel.
Thanks Man! Its always good to see what works/helps and doesn't. In this case, engine mounts not only tighten up the engine, but also tighten up shifting. Funny thing is that I never had an interest in adding a short shifter kit. There is a rhythm you develop on the track with shifting, brake and throttle that I never wanted to alter because it worked. But the shifter was getting just a bit sloppy and curious to see if the engine mounts helped at all. I suspect the transmission mounts will as well.
I didn't have nearly the ownership or seat time in my car (nor the skill or feel for the car that you have) when I made that observation about mine, but it looks like I wasn't imagining it...
Looks like you nailed it! I didn't think it would be as obvious, but it was. I could feel it in the shifter immediately. I had to find a few sweeping on ramps without cars around so I could push it thru the gears and see if I felt the "clunky roll". Didn't feel a thing.
Pretty fun testing stuff out if it works! Sure, have tested plenty that didn't. But all part of the fun nevertheless.
What products did you use in the diff and transmission? My shifting is balky when the car is cold, even in summertime. I want to change fluids to see if it helps.
My Indy likes to use Millers oil products. They used Miller's CRX75W90 for both. They also use Millers 5W40 for engines. I haven't replaced the shifter cables yet. Next step is to track the car with the new engine mounts to get a feel for changes, and then replace the transmission mounts and see what improvements. I will worry about replacing the shifter cables at a later date.
FWIW, my shop is heavy into supporting the club racing and DE community for decades, so they have tested this stuff in extreme track conditions for a long time. But as we all know, there are many ways to skin a cat and many preferences that work and work well beyond Miller's products.
Hope it helps.
Just over $2100 including shipping and import duties. Could have been a little cheaper from Gaudin or Delaware Porsche, but they said it was backordered with no availability estimate.
The weekend weather really sucked here. Took the car out today, yes supersonic. Got a six pack of agent 77 ipa from new Belgium and they were liquidating the winter ipa so I paid $3.99 for a six pack, there was a one six pack limit. I would have bought cases at that price. The only beer I really don�t like from new Belgium is fat tyre. Anyway doing homemade chicken noodle 🍜 soup today, got that pork but ready for tomorrow but wife said it�s lent, so I�ll smoke it on Thursday. Fixing to wash the car, I�ll make a trip to total wine to see if I can get a bottle of Cuban rum. Thursday in addition to the butt, I�ll make white rice and black beans with ham hocks, May get me some cohibas to complete the Cuba 🇨🇺 Day. Life is good.
7.7 alcohol by volume got to be careful with that one.
On liquidation, 65 and sunny 🌞 right now so no more jacket, even thou is my favorite color blue.
Pork butt now for Thursday.
Conoco please keep on climbing, papa needs money for cobalt blue rocket below.
What can I Say, one of one, X50.
Went to total wine and more. I feel like a bootlegger when I�m doing these runs. Anyway another excuse to drive out more miles on the car. Bless the lord i found a cheaper bourbon than Kentucky deluxe. That California product is $8.99 for the 1.75 liter, it can probably light my charcoal. Anyway let�s see where all this goes. I feel like an outlaw when I�m doing these liquor runs blazing by cars doing triple digits. Yes windows down I want to hear the headers, exhaust, catless x pipe all working together to produce a glorious melody, life is really good right now.
At least I found larceny again.
block whatever you want. Not everyone goes to get groceries on their 996s. People actually do a lot of stuff while driving these cars, reality tv show.
Apologies if I am posting in the wrong thread. I may need more of a troubleshooting area, but thought I would start here.
I have a 2004 C4S Cab and I began feeling some instability, I believe coming from the front right corner. Hard to describe, but the behavior presents itself on a higher speed (50+mph) sweeping left turns.
The first time I felt it, I thought I had a flat tire - but all tires were fine. It felt like the tire was slowing/sliding/understeer on a pulse/cadence like a CPR beat.
I'm not usually braking when I feel it, but the last time it occurred - I was decelerating on a freeway exchange ramp. Under braking, it seemed like the ABS was kicking in (faster pulse under my foot) - but I really don't think the tire was coming anywhere close to 'locking'
As for what I had done, mainly two things:
1) I completed a brake pad/rotor replacement on all four corners. I've double checked my install and confirmed the ABS and BrakePad sensors are plugged in securely.
2) I replaced rear tires, but I left the front tires alone (front still had 70%+ tread). The wheels are aftermarket on 19" wheels with a 235/35 on front and 305/30 on back. Rear tire had taken a screw and had significantly more wear.
I had the car taken for an alignment and nothing loose noted in the front end. Minor adjustments to bring the alignment within spec were made, but this didn't address the issue. The only item they couldn't adjust was the 'caster' angle. It was slightly out of 'spec', but I don't think it's related.
Right now, I'm wondering if I should replace the front wheels as well. I've noted a few threads on the forum where a bigger concern would be any damage to the front differential on the AWD components.
Otherwise, I might just need to enlist a specialist, I was wondering if anyone hear had some guidance on where to look or had any first hand experience with anything similar.
Hey gruppe 3/98 is a good 996 guy why all the hatred he contributes unlike some other members who just bitch
remember we are a varied group just like life
This is the problem most likely. Those tire sizes don't work correctly on an AWD 996. The correct rear size should be 315/25-19. Good luck finding some, they are like unicorn dung.
Took the car out. Opened a regions checking account put the required balance and in three months voula $200 shows up in my account. Went to Home Depot to pick my vent hood to replace the 22 year old one on my house. I got all the time in the world , last year between opening new accounts and credit cards I scored $1750 bonus dollars. Yes it dings my credit score because too many inquiries but I don�t give a hoot it still over 800, $1750 buys me a lot of meals bourbons and Porsche parts.
Yes I did 150 , my car is real fast now. Can�t wait to get a tune.
I've had an issue with a mouse in my car lately so after a client picked up their car from detailing I checked on the 911. Noticed some mouse droppings on the dash and floor so he obviously hasn't vacated the premises yet. Started pulling apart the front and found my boy Milton along with his/her friend a big old red boi. Gonna try to rig something up to catch them overnight. Getting sick of getting in and worrying about a mouse running around, I mean they are kinda cute but I would prefer them not in my car lol.
Luis, I like you man, but you gotta stop this crap. None of us give a damn about your finances, how many countries you have been in, nor how smart you think you are. But if you want to keep talking about this stuff, start a new thread and stay off all the other threads with this info.
Dude, I like your car related stuff and even your food stuff. But enough is enough with ruining the various threads with non-car related things. Picking up liquor in your 996 is not car stuff. It's grocery shopping.
Please help yourself by using more discretion.
(Rant)
You're very close to a trap that will work, but I think you'll have a few problems as it sits.
The cans are too close to the edge, so the mice will be able to walk back and forth. Those tricky ****s can jump, and will if you leave a few inches between the edge of the bucket and the edge of the can.
Also, I would use something smoother than a can. I found a 4" length of 1" dia PVC worked great. But just something that has no flat edges and a smooth surface.
Finally, you're probably trying to get them out of the car. Put the trap just in front of the bumper and leave the hood up. They will be attracted to the scent and you don't want dead mouse scent in your trunk. (Antifreeze does a good job of masking the smell / blocking decomposition - just put an inch in the bottom.)
Best of luck, coming from someone with too much mice killing experience.
Thank you - where do you find the valid tire options for this car? I knew the 19" rims were not standard and only found the stock dimensions listed on most sites.
Thanks men, I appreciated the comment I�ll try. Anyway took the car out this morning had to move it to take out the smoker. Anyway I feel a difference with 46 degree weather, I wonder how much difference it makes. Anyway smoking a 7.5 lb pork butt, I make it different than pull pork, so you can slice it. Anyway Injected it with a mix Of beef broth and Tony cacheres creole butter. I�m putting larceny just enough on my watercans inside the pit and a bit of it in my sprayer bottle. Hopefully you like this food stuff. A couple of questions what year is your car, and would you be willing to volunteer for testing at fab speed?? I�m trying to use design of experiments to do a test at fabspeed and we do need to test all three engine variances, 3.4 throttle, 3.4 egas, 3.6. Thanks for standing up, everything is cool.
Hopefully this will enhance the pork but.
I inject briskets, roasts, prime rib roasts, pork butts. Even hams.
Getting ready for the cook. I�m using hickory, Apple, cherry and pear wood today.
I have a weird thing about killing animals or bugs if I can help it. I dunno what I am going to do with him though, there is another one that I saw when I started pulling the frunk apart that isn't in there. Might see if I can catch that one and then take them a few miles down the road across the river and let New Jersey deal with them.
you seem to be a super practical guy and real handy. Over here we are being invaded by the guys from Cali, NY, NJ, and Massachusetts, these people come here offer $10-15k over asking prices and cash for homes. My issue is that they are driving the home prices to the moon and then I get stuck paying higher property taxes. Any recommendations?? I definitely tell them when I met them at my waterhole to stop voting as they did because they are going to create here the same bs they escaped from. Unfortunately I can�t drive them to drop them off in NJ, any recommendations appreciated, 😂
Sir, you might want to rethink your source of excitement. Of course they want to move to Texas to create California 2.0, but remember when they leave here they take their tax dollars with them and have the secondary effect of raising what we pay to keep the ship afloat. No matter how many smart people leave here, the total tax bill will never be reduced. And in RI they are rushing to backfill the outflow with people from Afghanistan, now Ukraine, mixing with the steady stream of relocations from the southern border, few of whom by the way actually pay taxes here.
For the government it is what I call a "self licking ice cream cone"
maybe he can create his own state. Take them there with him, and they can invade the capital whenever something is fck up. Maybe the next tax heaven, legal marijuana, legal prostitution, they can drink Havana club every day and smoke cohibas. Then they can bribe half of the politicians here in the states so they let them be, sounds like a pretty cool solution.
I have an AWD 996 with 19" wheels and those are the tires that came on it - and it drives beautifully.
What is needed for sizes that are non-stock is to match as close as possible the factory tire diameter. The front tires need to be a bit larger diameter than the rears to make the AWD work correctly.
The sizes I listed: 235/35-19 is 25.47" and the 315/25-19 is 25.28" which is perfect. The 305/30-19 is 26.3" - much too big, it needs to be smaller than the front.
I respect the humane thing, but those little critters have friends and they like to party....at your expense. Get a couple of snap traps baited with peanut butter and be done with it. I store my M1009 (a military Blazer) out on the driveway and have had a few mice find their way in. They can be destructive and they sink if left alone for any period of time. After I caught three inside my truck (the snap traps), I put the traps under the hood. So far, they have not wandered inside the truck and have been caught outside the people compartment.
I would rather collapse the population of those critters around the house than replace wiring in any of my vehicles.
For sure, that is my biggest concern is the wiring. I just need the other to take the bait, if the other one hasn't taken fallen in yet I don't think the type of trap would make a difference. I gotta work today but I might grab one tomorrow and put it outside the car if the other doesn't end up in the bucket. I've lived here for 26 years and I don't recall ever having this issue before. I've had signs of animals on cars I've left outside that sat for a while but not on the inside, probably just need to drive it more.
I've heard on some cars the material the harness or wires are made of attract critters. I drove it the other day to the store with Milton running around on the passenger side. Hopefully no damage is done but I suppose next winter I will have to set traps around the car.
Well today I paid an $10k bill for preventative maintenance plus new radiators, then I went for a 200 mile drive in the desert to shake it down. So much fun.
My apologies I just added up my invoices it was actually closer to $9k.
IMSB & RMS, U-AOS, clutch & Flywheel, Oil and Filter, Pair of CSF radiators.
Haha yeah thanks man. Did struts and alignment too actually but that was a few weeks ago. It's been in the shop for a few weeks and I started looking at new Supras while I was bored.. But then I got it back and now I remember why I love it so much.
Another satisfying small detail made right. My vanity mirror doors were both gone when I purchased my cab. I grabbed the Amazon Chinese aftermarket ones with the brass reinforced holes and they really are a quality part. Since the door is what acted as the light switch, somewhere along the way the bulbs burnt out.
Had to take them all apart, source some hard to come by 3W bulbs, and solder two wires on the passenger side that I believe the previous owner cut. You could have just pulled the bulbs man.
I probably never would've done this project on a hardtop. The fact you could see the mirrors poking up over the windshield with the top down always bugged me. Now everything is back to right.
Hey Flat Sixx I looked at the Amazon covers. They look nice and the price is right but my visors are missing three of the little hinge nubs in the bezels. The copy on Amazon seems to imply that you have to have the nubs for the covers to work. Could they work with the screws included with the covers replacing the nubs?
Thanks.
I got the same response from Gaudin. Do you mind sharing what the import duties were? I'm curious because I've found that Customs can be really hit or miss. It seems like the higher the value, the more interested they get.
Fortunately for me all my hinge posts were intact, just the covers had broken. The instructions say if your post is broken off to then drill the plastic out to accept the screw as the new post. The lids have a pressed in threaded brass bushing in them. The threads are inconsequential if you have the factory posts still, but the screw will engage them if you have to go that route. In all honesty it might be a little easier (after the drilling of course) to do that way. Once you get the frame out you have to bend it to the point you fear breaking it to get the second factory post into the brass boss. That wouldn't be a concern if you had drilled the factory posts out. Just lay it down and screw in both screws from the backside.
that�s $24 for two gallons. Figure out what the guys in Cali are paying. I�ll be filling up tomorrow with my t mobile discount probably paying $4.50 a gallon for premium here in Texas. She�ll V power 93.
I think your math is off. For only $40 i got to take possession of 7 gal of Shell VPower, with my discount. But, here in AZ we don't make the stuff like you do in TX.
I said $24 for two gallons of 104 race fuel, I like to run that when I only got 1/4 tank left so I can let it rip. With the discount , for shell v power 93 I probably I�m going to pay $4.50 a gallon tomorrow, I wonder how high Is in Illinois, last January 12, 2021 I went thru downtown Chicago, after picking up my car. Premium at a BP station was $4.59. When I got to my house here in Texas the shell that I use was $2.99. Illinois as a state taxes the hell out of people and they are broke, I�m extremely glad the dealer in Wisconsin where I bought my car gave it full to me. 100 💯 Percent disclosure, I honestly don�t care if gas is $10 a Gallon. I own a ton of COP,PSX, and XOM stocks. They make more money , I will make more too.
My 911 is much cheaper to run than my truck/dd.
20 Mpg using 91 octane is much cheaper than 11mpg using 87 octane.
I calculated 41 cents per mile for my Suburban and only 27 cents per mile for my 996. Porsche it is!
Thanks! I haven't had any issues lately but have taken it in the shorts a few times in the past. An interesting side note is that I got a quote from Rose Passion back in September and with shipping, it came out to $2,154.00 USD and this time around it was $1,844.00 USD. The downside is that it was shipped via FedEx. I have enough problems with FedEx shipping something across town so I can't wait to see what they do with a very large box coming from France.
I used to live near a refinery and we had the most expensive prices in the state.
Being near the refinery isn’t always the best financially.
Now I live a across Houston from a refinery and 93 octane is “cheap” at $4.23 without any discount.
Californians with their special blends are going to be paying the most in the US, but nowhere near what the Europeans will.
Hi, I am thinking about installing wheel spacers on my 996 C4 (now converted to C2). Which thickness would you recommend? I don't want to go silly extra wide and impact the suspension geometry too much, just give the car a little more of a stance. 10mm in the rear and 7mm in the front? What are your thoughts?
Thank you.
If you are on stock wheels, most guys are running 10mm front and 15mm rear. Depending on your wheels and tire sizes, you can even do 15mm square or up to 20mm in the rear.
Ordered the TopGear 200 cell catted X-pipe on Monday from the UK, and it showed up here yesterday! Looks like a nice piece. I�ve been fighting some drone with my supercups, hopefully getting this installed next week will cut down on it a bit, we shall see! I don�t mind loud, I just hate drone!
If it�s not acceptable afterwards, I�m either pulling the Supercups and reinstalling my stock mufflers with a fister mod, or having J-pipe resonators added to the aftermarket exhaust. After measuring the frequency of the drone in prep for having the J-pipes installed, I realized that adding an X would likely move it around a bit, and I�d hate for the math to end up wrong if I added the X in the future, throwing things off. You can see here how pronounced the resonance is currently between 114hz and 148hz. Drives me nuts, like someone with a Tuba in the back seat!
I�m running Elephant Racing 7mm F/15mm R on my �99 C4 with 18� sport design BBS. I think it looks good; if I was doing it again I might go 10mm in the front but it�s ok for now.
Thank you.
The root cause of my issue was the slightly smaller (used) front tires. I ended up getting new tires on the front to match the recently replaced rear tires (having matched the brand/size the previous owner) and the symptoms have disappeared. Next time I buy tires - I'll look to get back to the 25 aspect if they can be found..
Hi there, sorry to reply to an old post but can't seem to find any write-up on getting the wiring on sport seats to line up with the standard power seats. I have a 2001 C2 with powered (longitudinal, height front/rear and backrest) and heated seats. I bought a pair of sport seat and they have a manual longitudinal lever but powered height and backrest. I put the driver's seat in yesterday and I couldn't get the blue/black/natural plug to close - seems like one or more pins don't line up and I didn't want to break a 21 year old plastic part so decided to leave it.
I searched for a write up on getting the sport seats to work with my car... Could someone please point me to that or advise what I need to do to get them to work?
Thanks Bill
plug in sport seat
plug in standard seat
additional module in standard seat - not present on sport seat
Working on final punch list for the Track Honey.
Finished up installing the GMG WC harness bar, gt3 center console delete, the euro light weight buckets, carbon fiber inner door sills and got the Fikse Profil 13 9�/11� mounted with new Continentals 235/40 & 295/30.
OMG! What a great day for a cab!
And my father use to ask me why I bought impractical cars...
I got the car up on the scales to see how the Ohlin's are settling out. And I find I'm back at 51%
so I measure the frame heights to see what's changed, the left front is lower than X74 spec. Something settled.
So, bump up the left front by 4 turns, 6mm, and end up pretty close to 50%. I did check the spring preload to make sure it hadn't changed. Still at 198mm.
Measure again in another 1k miles. Gotta make use of the irrational purchase of scales.
And who says our beer holders, uh, cup holders, aren't useful?
On a serious note, after I took this picture, I drove to the overlook for the first picture and had to wait for county police. They had the road blocked due to a motorcycle fatality. I don't know if alcohol was involved. The police officer said he was at 100mph when he t-boned a left turner. The bike was half its size. Please be careful when driving your rather powerful and impressive cars.
Today I assembled my new Quickjack 5000tl and put my Targa up for a test. It wasn't too bad to put together...and wow...do I like how much room I'll have to work. I only wish I had done this earlier!
Changed out the broken clutch helper spring...
This story starts with a failure of my cruise control. The CC stopped working. Wouldn't engage. Check codes and found P0830, clutch pedal encoder. Searching and reading quickly points to a loose pedal not pushing the switch back into position. The cause is the helper spring. After replacing the unit, the pedal is firmly pushed against the switch when the pedal is released. There are many threads on how to replace this. Took me 20 minutes.
The pedal feel is now super light. Not dissimilar to our GTI. It's almost disconcerting for this car. It's clear that this spring has been broken the whole time I've owned the car. 3.5 yrs.
Some questions:
-This helper spring assembly has a larger diameter pivot point than the old one. I needed to remove the plastic bushing that were inserted for the old one. This creates a metal to metal contact. The fit is actually good. Could've been the design. I haven't yet looked to see if there is a different bushing to use. Is anyone aware of one?
-The new spring makes a bunch of noise when operating the clutch. Does this go away as the spring gets worked in?
Thanks in advance.
I recently-ish (March 2021) replaced mine after owning mine for about 3 1/2 years too.
My spring had broken in two similar to yours.
I replaced mine with a Porsche unit, and it was identical to my old one.
I have no extra noise, just less weight to the clutch.
Much easier on my old knees.
Replaced min about 5 years ago. It still makes noise and I have completely forgotten about it until you mention the noise on the post. Haven't ever asked how to eliminate the noise. But in reality, it really doesn't bother me. Maybe it should?!
Perhaps mine makes noise too.
I sometimes forget that I have hearing loss so some noises that drive my family up the wall go unnoticed by me.
If so, it's not a loud noise.
I have the wrong version of this part. It seems I ordered 997-423-081-05. This is for a '07 up 997 c2s.
The '02 needs a 996-423-018-119. The Auto Atlanta site has clear pictures of each. They match the photo I have above. Kudos to them for keeping such a clean and easy reference for people to use. Not sure how I screwed this one up.
We'll see what happens with the noise once I get the right one in there. I can't believe it will be any different. The sizes of everything other than the pivot points is identical. Maybe I will just swap the guts...
Thanks for sharing -- I didn't even realize quality versions of these with brass inserts were available. I ordered this one (
Amazon
Amazon
) for the passenger side and I'm very impressed with the quality (looks absolutely identical to OEM but stronger) that I'd replace the non-broken one on the driver side (that has slightly mangled airbag decal) also if I wasn't afraid of breaking the tabs removing the good one.
A couple of questions:
1. Where did you source the bulbs?
2. How difficult was it to remove the mirror assembly from the visor? I tried with an orange pry bar, but could get it to come out, so just replaced the cover with the assembly still inside the visor. It did require a bit of uncomfortable bending of the cover to get the it past the 2nd tab, but it went on with some fiddling.
To clarify. Your clutch pedal was stiff before and now with the new helper spring it is super light?
Mine is a bit squeaky and the clutch is stiff (in a good way) I love it as is. Drove my dad's 986 and the clutch felt like a Corolla. Too light for my liking.
If I understood you correctly I have half a mind to remove the helper altogether.
I removed mine and clutch feel is greatly improved. I would highly recommend it. There are several older Rennlist threads about this too, and nearly everyone who did it had the same observation.
I also don't have any cruise control issues nor have I read of anyone having them after removing the spring.
I gotta agree. I put a new one on about 5 years ago because I was teaching my daughter how to drive a stick with the 996. She struggled with the clutch w/o the helper. But I prefer it w/o.
If you want some assist that's less than the regular clutch power spring, you can use the 996 Turbo spring. It's MUCH lighter than the stock spring. 996-423-081-50
Just vacuumed both the F150 and the car. I carefully detailed the interior. Going to Vegas tomorrow, best case scenario I drive it again next Monday. Before anyone says anything about the car cover, that�s a custom cover from my 85 BMW M635CSI, shark, longer wider car, I just hate throwing anything that may work.
Vacuuming both of them.
I did interior detailed and put up till next Monday. That�s a BMW M6 cover.
Thanks guys for the feedback and the parts number suggestion
I have to install the rennline throttle pedal hinge soon. Will fool around with the clutch assist then
Correct. In my ownership it has always been much stiffer than any of my other MT's. Quite manageable, but stiff. Good feel on release. And it never changed. The only reason I put the new spring in was because of the non-functioning cruise control. Yes, it is now similar to an old Corrolla I had.
If yours is already stiff, taking it out may be moot. Mine was not exerting any force on the pedal at all. It was along for the ride.
I�ve never seen power height sport seats, but it looks like the sport seat plug only has the blue seat belt plug. And you have 5 pins on the left, vs 3 on the original seat. what does your harness from the car look like?
Gotta do my shifter it feels sloppy. Well after the snow over the weekend the warm weather has melted it all, pulled the Porsche out to put the front end back together from trying to hunt down the second mouse that had taken up residence in it. Figured out that there was a bag of bird feed in a cabinet right next to my car, a nice mouse-sized hole chewed into it. So they were getting food from there and sheltering in my car. I found evidence that Red Boi was still in there and cleaned it all up and decided to go for a drive since it's been a few weeks and figured since it was warming up he might have left. Get back from my drive and put the car in the garage and what do I see? Red Boi, dead in the driveway, I either ran him over on the way out or the way back in. RIP.
I had my oil changed this past Saturday on both the 996 and 997.2 and found evidence of mice building a nest on the cabin air filter of the 996. They didn't seem to like the 997 for some reason, probably because its a PDK.
Went to the paint shop to check on my Carrera. Car is disassembled and getting all the bodywork and stuff done this week, then paint on the weekend! So, hopefully in a week, the car is a different colour!
Also paid half the bill. Oy vey.
-Matt
Playing around with my CNC machine and decided to see if I could make Porsche emblems to replace the original ones that fell off my wheel caps awhile ago. I had replaced them with cheap ones but have never really been happy with them. This looks promising. I need to use thinner aluminum though. This was 1/8 inch and is a bit too thick for my taste. The photo doesn't really do it justice. It's very shiny. Now I'm trying to figure out where else I "need" to put these.
The Vesuvio/aero is a great combo. I see you’re near Cleveland, I’m about an hour south east of you! Great car, enjoy it! Looking forward to salt free roads so I can get mine out soon.
I rolled out my twists so I could clean them up and see what kind of shape they were in. I think I'm going to PC them, or maybe just strip and polish?
I haven't washed these off the car since I bought it, and I don't think anyone else from 2003 has either
Haven't done much with my 996 since I got my Tesla Model S a few days ago. So far my fav features are:
1. Interior devoid of buttons and levers except for a few on steering yoke, even the door handles are gone.
2. Turn signals are smart. Before changing lanes you hit the turn signal and it keeps blinking until lane change is made, unless you changed into an exit only lane or turning lane, in that case it keeps blinking until turn is made. First I've had these, my last three cars were years 99, 2005, and 2009.
3. Sees red lights and stops on its own, freaky. Haven't activated full self-driving yet but we bought it, should really blow my mind.
I'm sure the 996 will get action again once the bloom is off the rose.
Although the 3 is sportiest the Y is a better car structurally because they use giga casting front and rear, and battery compartment is structural. Also, heard they will be first with 4680 batteries if you can wait just a little.
Also, FYI prices went up today on 3 and Y 2k-4K more. Maybe waiting not so smart.
Would recommend! I ordered my model Y in the middle of January and it wasn't supposed to delivery until August until, voila!, it magically showed up last weekend (delivered to my driveway in my absence since I was up in the city). I did it, and got the FSD package too, because I want to be a part of the self-driving car world as it evolves and matures. It's crazy how the thing can navigate and change lanes. Acceleration is as good as the 996, but it's no 996. Between the Model Y, the 996 and the sprite, I've got a fun choice to make every day! See below for an action shot taken just now.
I had the same quandry because even 330mi range isn't far enough for what I really want. But then I reconciled it by committing to just pay the $$ buy an updated battery pack when they hopefully become available as a retrofit. So basically I'm paying more $$ but get to start having the fun sooner.
FedEx brought my Aerokit bumper that came from Rose Passion in France.
I was impressed that the bumper left France last Wednsday, made it across the ocean, cleared Customs and was in front of my house yesterday. They left a notice saying "Customer unavailable or business closed". No mention if they need a signature or are planning on another delivery attempt. It's frustrating because during two years of telecommuting from home, no one ever needed a signature. Now that starting this week, I'm back in the office, they want someone home.
So now it's at a "Local FedEx facility" and I have no idea which one or if they're going to attempt another delivery or if I'm supposed to go pick it up.
lol, I think this is the first time I had a FedEx delivery by tractor trailer. He must have had fun turning around on my cul de sac.
Unpacked its new Aerokit bumper. If anyone is considering this, my total out of pocket cost with shipping from France to San Diego was $1,844.74. It arrived 7 days after placing the order. Gaudin Porsche, where it's on indefinite backorder was $2,026.84 with shipping. And my own beloved Porsche of San Diego was $2,925.41 with me picking it up at the parts counter.
I received my Napa Gold (made in USA!) oil filter yesterday, to go on my LN spin on adapter I got last week to do the oil change (with the Castrol I bopught last week) as soon as I take the 996 out of winter storage on April 1st!
I'll also be installing two new engine mounts ad my driver's side one in particular is destroyed.
Got the oil changed yesterday on my 99. Oil filter looked great and added magnetic drain plug so will continue with original IMSB. Only 32K miles and car is perfect except water pump beginning to show the slightest of leaks. Maybe new water pump on next oil change if its worse, or earlier if I see any coolant on garage floor. Either way this car is getting everything it needs to live a long life in perfect running condition.
That looks awesome even as-is! I'd be down for a set if pricing was reasonable! I have 4 original caps (with the lines) missing two crests, and the two that remain are rough. I'd totally run these!
They've left similar notes at my house when we were home. They're the worst of the delivery services in my opinion. Last month they dropped off a package that wasn't for me. Neither the number nor street were correct, but at least it was the same town. I contacted them and they said they would get back to me in 2-3 business days to schedule a pick-up. After a week without hearing from them, I checked the package and noticed that it had the addressee's phone number on the label. I called and they picked it up. Meanwhile, FedEx delivers to my street 3-4 times a day and a month later they still haven't contacted me about the package.
I'm still experimenting. I'm thinking of painting the aluminum with the body color first and then doing the engraving. I haven't considered doing these to sell as this is strictly a retirement hobby. I might do a set or two for cost in the future as I'm not interested in starting a business.
I would agree that FedEx is the worst. I have a guitar shop and 3 years ago I was sending out a $5K guitar a customer had purchased. The driver came in, claimed the label wouldn't scan, called his supervisor who told him to just pick it up and they would "fix it" at the FedEx facility. When we checked tracking it didn't show up so we called. The response was "That tracking number was never picked up or scanned." And despite the driver acknowledging the true situation FedEx refused to pay the claim and I was just SOL on the $5K. I immediately switched to UPS for all our shipping needs which has cost FedEx thousands of dollars in business from me. They suck.
That's messed up on so many levels, not the least of which is the loss of a good guitar. Did you track down the driver and really hammer him on who the manager was that told him to pick it up? Do you have video in the store showing fedex taking your box? This bugs me. Basically theft. Hope you retrieve it someday via serial number if it comes up for sale online.
I think the opposite would be cooler! Engrave, thin layer of body color, let dry and then sand the logo flat. The crest itself would be body color (or black if so preferred). I'd love a set...do keep me informed!
I do keep an eye out on line for the guitar. It was a very distinctively optioned sunburst Collings SJ model so easy to spot. So far no luck. We did file a police report with the serial number so if it ever shows up somewhere we have documentation and could possibly reclaim it. And yes we did hammer on the driver to no avail. He admitted picking it up to me but wouldn't do more than admit that fact because he didn't want to lose his job and I suspect his supervisor is actually the guilty party. I tried to get into the FedEx facility and confront him but that place is like Fort Knox. NO admittance. Period. My insurance refused payment as well. No scan, no paperwork so it never happened...
I'm taking us off topic so I will shut up but yes FedEx steals guitars.
Sorry last OT post: Collings is a dream guitar. I have a Novo Serus T and just ordered a Charles Whitfil Telecaster in Surf with maple neck. I feel your pain.
I tried that and the results are NFG. I'm now using a very thin piece of aluminum that fits into the recess perfectly. I'm using a diamond drag bit for the engraving so the cuts are very shallow. Next I'm going to try painting first and then engraving and see how that compares to the bare aluminum, which looks pretty good.
Update: I tried clear coating them with gloss and satin. Gloss looks really good. Now I just have to figure out which glue to use. The original was flexible and I think that's a good idea. I'm going to see if Home Depot still sells "Goop" which I used on a very heavy glass door that is still holding up after 20 years.
That really looks good. Have you thought about baked enamel type coating?
FYI, If you have any one off's (during your experimental phases), I would be interested in two of them, for ornamental purposes. They don't have to match.
EASIER to just use the SiriusXM app on your phone than to buy and install a whole separate unit! The MR12VOLT is great for keeping the car stock but upgrading the PCM and or CDR unit with Bluetooth!
Last parts of the suspension showed up today. X73 springs with B8 shocks, top mounts, bumps stops, dust boots, etc.
Also some more audio stuff showed up� Excelon headunit, Excelon 5 channel amp, and Focal coax speakers for the rear. Still waiting on the Focal 3-way speaker upgrade and custom subwoofer setup from CAI to arrive�
Appointment Friday for the suspension�hopefully the remaining audio stuff shows up before March 30 so I can drop it off for them to install while I�m out of town until the 5th�in a perfect world that would happen lol.
@Nate.Evans
- great choice on the Focal speakers. I think you'll be very happy. I ran them in a Lexus GS350 in the past to replace the Mark Levinson ones and I was very happy with the sound.
Got a lot done this weekend. Swapped on the new carbon fiber mirrors and completed the center console upgrade. New painted console over a Numeric shifter, with Black Forest **** and new leather on shifter, ebrake, and armrest.
I ventured into Mayfair in Central London to take a few Photos of my 996, at a favourite spot.. Took some of my 968 there too, and the place is super quiet with a very muted backdrop etc.
Once I was done, I exited on to Mount Street, and this caught my eye, parked outside The Connaught..
they basically make it close to the same shape as the stock Bose box, but put two 6� downfiring JL 6W3 subs in it. Basically a shrunk down JL StealthBox using 6� subs instead of a 13� sub.. It�s $1200 for the subs/box and about 2 weeks lead time before it ships.
WOW!
The Porsche 959 is my all-time favorite car.
My dream garage as a teenager was a Porsche 959 and an AMG Hammer.
Unfortunately I've never seen either in person.
There's a 959 in town that goes to some of the events, but I always seem to miss it.
One of these days I hope to see it in person.
Stunning. What a great part of town. Love the Coburg Bar. Nice photo spot too, the colors are very muted. Broke my foot so I can't drive, but hope to be out of the garage soon.
Got some replacement badges for the rims. Called about getting a tune done to push the HP.
Let me know who�s tune you are going to get. I�m trying to find a custom tuner but haven�t found one yet. Apr makes a good one. It�s $500 plus install.
Not today but over the past few days I put it up on the quick jacks to finally find the source of my oil leak. So I did some cleaning and even removed the driver's intake to get a better look. I've always suspected it was the accordion hose that went to the bottom of the AOS but when I removed the hose it seemed fine and when I inspected the o-ring it also seemed to be fine. Is there something else in that area that may leak over onto that hose? I'll still end up replacing the o-ring regardless
appreciate the feedback
My current shifter feels pretty good and was debating doing the function first kit along with a 997 tower. But for a couple bucks more can just get the numeric
Put on my homemade center cap emblems. Now I have to clean/paint my wheel bolts. Oh, and I just discovered that my car has early onset black vent foam disease.
Just had the 3-way speaker upgrade and headunit trim arrive from Rod at CAI. Let me just say, holy crap he did an AMAZING packing job as well as completely underselling the fact that if you buy the speaker kit and opt for the door enclosures, it’s the OEM Porsche ones with the new speakers already mounted. Yeah, he states everything is already wired/mounted, etc, but this really is amazing. The crossovers are wired, terminated and loomed beautifully too.
Makes me wish I woulda just bought the amp from him instead of trying to throw the install shop a bone because they’d probably thank me for having everything already done and take that over the narrower profit margin on parts…
If you are even remotely thinking about a speaker upgrade and want the install to be as easy as possible (and I assume sound awesome), I would without hesitation pick Rod at CAI…
now I’m just waiting on the subs/enclosure to arrive.
Thanks, you're too kind. They are aftermarket of course, just trying to update the look with reversible mods. Stokes Tire in Santa Monica recommended them years ago and they were pretty reasonable.
Ebay. Aftermarket, but well made and reasonable. Make sure to verify the diameter and color info. Here's the seller to look up, very nice person. mhinojosa_357
Good for you! The real deal! Mine are a 75 buck eBay knockoff I'm afraid. It's hard now to find them with Porsche on them, most have nothing or another brand. They can be a bit hard to mount as you need an angle attachment to drill the steel pedal arms.
Look on eBay. The seller I got mine from is now out of them. Paid 80 for 4. New OEM can be as much as 200 or more. Search center cap Porsche badge and the mm of the disc, like 76mm etc.
I got that duty fee a couple of weeks later too - wasn't sure what it was for, then I remembered the Rose Passion order.
I'd still recommend them - it was easy, well priced and got here much quicker than I expected. The local FedEx delivery was the biggest delay (added almost a week sitting in their warehouse waiting on delivery).
Yes, I was impressed with the shipping time too. Six days from France to San Diego including clearing customs. I have no problem with the $40.00 fee, I'm just surprised that FedEx didn't hold the bumper hostage until it was paid.
I got one too. LOVE IT. The only thing that makes me smile while filling the tank! I did find that there are issues with it holding it's seal, even after clicking it a few times.
Got the wheels and suspension put on today�.but a debacle with the toe arms means I had to overnight some Motorsport versions from Tarrett to get her buttoned up and back on the road on Monday
she doesn�t look too shabby though:
Ditto plus can you give more information on the suspension work.
From the pic it looks like Thule crossbars with some non-Thule bike carriers strapped to them. Hopefully Nate will chime in.
They're TE37s.
Front – 18 x 8.5 +49 Offset
Rear – 18 x 10 +59 Offset
Suspension is X73 springs with B8 shocks/struts with Tarret links.
Bike rack is Thule Aero bars with 1-UP rack.
I don't suggest getting the Thule, or any rack compared to the Porsche branded ones (which are made by Thule) unless you're 100% comfortable fabricating your own mounts for things. Because of the curvature of the roof, you have ZERO room to mount anything that clamps to the bars as you have less than 2 inches of clearance to the roof, which even the low profile ***** and such are thicker than an inch. It's why the Porsche labeled ones are so tall. Yes, you could use the flush mount tracks (the part where the rubber inserts in on the top of the blade) but personally, I've seen way too many of those fail as they are for more susceptible to vibration and don't utilize as much surface area to mount/clamp things to since most accessories only use a single bolt. I especially wouldn't trust the flush mounts when traveling at high speeds, they will DEFINITELY move over time if not the first time you go around 130-140mph with a bike in the rack.
I'll give you points for going 140 MPH with a bike on the rack... And the fact the car can do over 140 MPH is precisely the reason I don't need a bike, or a bike rack, but more power to you.
Decided to swap these:
For these:
I decided it was time for a change.
Since currently I can’t drive, it gives me something different to look at in the garage.
Went to cars and coffee. Never been to this shop before but it is a PCA sponsored shop and the owner is pretty active in the community plus he has a GT3 RS that he takes to the track sometimes. Let the pictures speak for themselves.
A beautiful blue had to park by my side
Original 16,000 miles what do some people do with these cars.
Bd as? They are installing a different dash data logger on this ticket, Weisech package. Loud.
Nothing is stock on this one 1400 hp plus.
The shop.
Had to take a picture of the beautiful r8, v10, gated manual what can I say, I like what I like.
87 944s only 40,000 miles scored 99 out of a 100 at the last concourse de elegance and won the category.
Similar to denzels Washington car .
haha, yeah, it was on the way down to Amelia for Werks Reunion from SC, there were quite a few times there and back we sustained 120+
vid at a gas station:
Instagram
Pics on the way down
yeah i like triple digits. Twice yesterday 127, 139. This thing screams now past 4,000 rpms. I don�t take it to red line I�m shifting at 7,000. Fun as hell.
Was trying to stay close to this guy. He�s getting driving lessons, coaching. Pretty decent drivers on gt3s beat his time at the track by 10 seconds.
At the cars and coffee.
Got the first half of the exhaust upgrade done. Now the fun half of bolting in the shiny new stuff.
(Yes, I know my spoiler is busted. One thing at a time)
Tackling the tough jobs.
Replaced the rear wheel arch trim today.
Here�s a list of everything done to my car in the last 8 months:
IMS Solution
Clutch
Flywheel
Rear Main Seal
Air Oil Separator
Timing Chain Tensioners
Spark plugs
Coil packs
Fuel Injectors
Water pump
Low Temp Thermostat
Serpentine Belt, rollers and tensioner
Fuel Filter
Battery
Oil Change and all fluids flushed
So now I�m just waiting for spring to finally arrive
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Got one of my friends 99 Aero, my car and two others for PDR. Was able to get work done on two of the 4 cars. To fix the rear driver quarter on both P cars, we either drill thru the back tail lamp or we need to be able to remove the inside back panel. We will work on that latter. Pretty good technician, so I believe I found who I�m constantly going to recommend for this type of work. Chow today was pork chops, Parmesan garlic mashed potatoes and good ole green beans casserole.
Sorry pictures was after I had served every one including my son.
Green beans casserole is always great almost all gone.
Mashed potatoes are always a hit, throw a bit of mayonnaise there and even if you can�t taste it , makes a big difference with the finished product.
The AERO had a bunch of issues on the frunk. Almost like they closed the hood with something inside there. Other issues where on the passenger side door.
My other friend was flying his drone. While I was blasting the Jams.
Believe cost will vary with color, standard black matte, gloss etc $175, but looks like they are doing a sale at $75. Believe he makes them in batches. Had a few months wait but well worth it.
https://cyphervehicledesign.com/coll...e-delete-panel
Last night, took off the car cover and popped the battery in after having had it sit since early December. Fired right up like it was never asleep. Drove it 5 kilometers aroung the neigborhood and got it to operating temps and all is good.
Will start driving it daily as of Friday April 1st, and after I finish work at 2pm that day (I work at a JLR dealer), I'll be taking it into the shop for an oil change, LN spin on oil filter adapter and motor mount replacement. Then DRIVE MORE
First pic of the year:
Thanks! These are old FK wheels, 18x10 and 18x8, actually offset was stamped into the wheel and is now illegible. They look great, though will be replaced with a set of hollow spoke TT wheels later this spring
I want to see it as soon as you put it in. I got your fire extinguisher. We are going to cars and coffee Saturday at formula garage and then we are driving to Justin�s to drop the Aero.
I ordered the carbon fiber bumperette delete panel from Cypher Vehicle Designs.
I normally don't like fake carbon fiber wraps, but figured that I'd give it a try and if it doesn't match my actual carbon fiber wing and mirrors, I'd have my body shop match it to my Seal Gray bumper.
I won't make it this weekend.
I'm still being driving around by my wife and son.
The get togethers are too early for them on a Saturday.
Plus my wife doesn't like driving the Porsche and my son needs more manual transmission practice before heading into Houston.
I'll have to grab the extinguisher a different day.
Who owns the Aero?
His name is Charles another great guy. He lives here in Katy. He bought it in 2020. Anyway another member of the good guys. I�m actually thinking about us doing a 996 revival here in the Houston Area, let me know what you think.
I ordered one also. I can paint that and the ducktail rear lid now weather is warming up, might even pick up AndrewK996 headlight covers if find a good deals somewhere.
Not exactly “to” my 996.
I’d been thinking about hanging my QuickJack instead of parking on top of them.
(Some people in my house occasionally like to use the empty garage to play VR games)
But I didn't want to spend $60 from quickjack.com to get the pre-made brackets in order to hang them.
I found them for 1/2 the cost at HomeDepot.com:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/QUICKJAC...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Picked them up at HomeDepot curbside today.
Recently installed some leather Recaro Pole Position ABEs. I used Recaro side mounts and sliders with PCI base mounts. PCI manufactures the floor mounts for BBI and GMG.
You are looking at ~35 lbs per electric seat. Question is what do the Recaro's weigh? My guess is 20-25 lbs each.
Here is 125 lbs in weight savings if you want it.
GT3 or Recaros ~ 25 lbs.
Remove Back seats ~25
After market Exhaust ~25
Floating hat Brakes ~25
Driver exercise program ~25
April 1st: Got online to get it reregistered at 7:30am, driove it legally on the road for the first time this year and filled with 94 octane. Let the fun begin!
wat state offers 94 as premium?? Here in Texas we can buy 91, 93, then ethanol free 92. Put a bunch of smiles on it. Between today and tomorrow I probably going to drive 200 miles.
Just got it inspected, no issues with the x pipes no cats. Now will wait a week or so to register for next year. Texas is pretty cheap, the cost of inspection and registration is around $100 per year.
Went to a small shop. No wait, in and out in 15 minutes.
Yes it passed now more vroom vroom.
I'm in Montreal, Quebec and Petro Canada (formerly Sunoco here) has 94. This is the first time I'm not filling with Shell Super 91...let's see how the 996 likes it!
Just got it inspected, no issues with the x pipes no cats. Now will wait a week or so to register for next year. Texas is pretty cheap, the cost of inspection and registration is around $100 per year.
Went to a small shop. No wait, in and out in 15 minutes.
Yes it passed now more vroom vroom.
In Alabama tag/registration on my '99 996 is only $30.91 for a year. No inspection or sniff test, just "run what you brung" ...
But the Feds will still bust a shop for "tampering with emissions" so most shops won't do it unless it's an "off-road only car"...
Most areas of Texas are even cheaper.
Only 17 counties out of 254 have emissions testing.
Those that don't only have to pay a $7 inspection.
Also, your last TX emissions test will be 2024.
Vehicles 25 years old and older no longer require emissions testing.
Last week I washed the car on Friday night, the dew and the pollen were bad so other than clean wheels it look dirty. Today got up early. Watched a bunch of You tube videos on the cayenne gts with the wife and now car cleaning. Yes had to start the day with caffeine, yes sir, old grand dad 100 and rebel 100 Coke Zero to add caffeine to the mix, Porsche Saturday is here vroom vroom.
My trusted artic mug keeps it chilled.
I haven�t had any coffee since April 12 2013.
Just got my new UAOS with track drain, as well as new LN IMS Retro, LN Low Temp Thermostat and OEM Oil Cooler. Love the look of new parts! See picture below.
Going in to see my Indy next week to have the parts put on the car. Its about time the parts are replaced again since its been ~10 years. My Porsche Motorsports AOS began to fail about a week ago with a muffled high pitched squeal. Just a few days earlier, it tested just fine with the manometer and oil cap test. A few days later I started it up, heard the squeal, tested the oil cap and with the manometer and it was failing. It was time to add Skip's UAOS to improve the durability of the AOS, but to also take advantage of the extra quart of oil it can run to help with oil cooling. The UAOS materials are very high quality and it looks killer. Looking forward to it being on the car!
My LN IMS Retro is 10-12 years old, has seen many track days and has performed beautifully. But since we are dropping the engine, its about time to replace it. I will eventually go with the IMS Solution when I get my engine rebuilt in a few years. In the meantime, I am using the cost savings for other parts that I will be replacing later this year in another visit to the Indy. Yep, will replace the RMS, check the clutch and flywheel as well, but don't think there are any issues.
This is my second visit to my Indy over the past two months, of which they went over the car with a fine tooth comb to look for leaks and test parts. Bores have been scoped, deep sump has been dropped and the bores and oil system are in great shape. No scoring and no debris. Fuel injectors were replaced, plugs, coils, sensors are all relatively new, but they were checked as well. Suspension and brakes are in great shape. Just need to get an alignment and corner balance. After this Indy visit, the next steps will wrap around adding more oil cooling and the UIDS. Next year will be a suspension refresh and then an exhaust refresh.
The 996 is a durable and incredible car if you change the oil often and systematically replace parts over time. What's not to like?!
Got my car back from storage today.
Had the dealer replace the expansion tank and various SAI system parts while it was there. I�ve done a few jobs on my car as I slowly learn how to turn a wrench, but those jobs seemed well beyond my meager skills.
I should be able to pull off the headlight restoration and short shifter install I have lined up, though!
Absolutely, the MS AOS has proven to be very robust and really the only safe option for our cars until the UAOS was launched. Mine lasted over 10 years with countless track days. If Skip didn't invent the UAOS, I would replace my failing ms aos with another.
However, the UAOS is superior to the motorsports aos in design and functionality. Because the UAOS is a series of components versus one big plastic piece, you can replace components on the UAOS easily and cheaply, not to mention that the MS AOS could never run oil levels above full. Whereas due to the design of the UAOS, it can handle running an extra quart of oil above full, possibly more. This is HUGE for engine cooling, oil starvation mitigation, engine longevity and overall a safer, more durable and effective solution for both street and track.
The Porsche Motorsport AOS was designed to "hold" more oil in the body of the AOS (to keep it from going into the intake), It still uses the same drain hole/size as the Factory AOS, so the oil can't drain any faster to the sump, but it can "hold" more. "Holding" more oil does two things.1. It helps keep oil from going into the intake, 2. it lowers the oil level in the sump which has two effects, one good and one bad,(a) lowering the oil level in the sump helps to keep oil from overwhelming the AOS to begin with, (b) lowering the oil level in the sump causes more risk of oil starvation in high-G turns.
The UAOS w/XTDD on the other hand doesn't hold more oil in the body or the Accumulator ( but can run a higher initial oil level), it has an Accumulator that catches and oil that comes from the AOS, and the Accumulator has another drain to the sump. So neither the AOS or the Accumulator hold more oil, and USES TWO drains to return oil to the sump twice as fast and keep the oil level in the sump much higher to help reduce oil starvation in high-G turns..
The Porsche Motorsport AOS still has a rubber diaphragm that will eventually fail, and is in the same location as the Factory AOS.
Because of all the helpful info everyone supplied I finally broke down and pulled the center console of my 996 and painted it. It was a arduous process to keep the surface as smooth as possible as I layered on the paint and clear coat but turned out nice if I don�t say so myself!
Before and after photos..
I don't know if any of you know but is there a way to find the exact color of a 996 by using the VIN number? I'm looking at one out in Arizona and he doesn't know the color of blue that is on it and the sticker under the frunk is missing.
If the option sticker is missing I'm guessing the owners manual is too, but there should be a full list of options including color in there. Also, if you post up a picture and give the year we can probably tell you the color. You can also look at Rennbow for all the color options for that year and see if you can't figure it out yourself.
Fantastic work on the console by the way! I'm thinking about painting mine and it'd be great if you shared your process/some pointers, as yours came out really great.
Decided on metallic green for my hub emblems. It's not a match with my body color but close enough for me. I bought anodized aluminum in various colors and settled on this. Funny thing - I save everything related to my car (except for plugs, filters, etc). I was going to look for a wire hanger to make a tool to pull off the caps. I figured I'd look in my parts bin just in case I still had the one I made 12 years ago. Found it.
I believe I read you can find the paint number/code on a plate under the left side of the frunk lining. It is near the bottom on a plate welded to the car.
Recaro offers them in a bunch of different material I don't think they they have grey. You could always get a set and have the center sections upholstered in the right color.
I hear you guys, but when you are not first owner and its already on? It's even uglier with the holes and marks left behind if removed. Tried to make the best of it.
Got the ducktail installed and back from the painters. Love the look....but here's a little bit of a review...
There's no instructions for the wire harness, which, at first seems a bit disappointing, but once you look at the old decklid and this new one, you can just look at it and see where everything goes as all the plugs are different; except for the brake light on the spoiler. It has a plug on the light, but the other end is just bare wires, so I stripped back some of the wire and plugged it into the remaining plug on the harness and it worked. So I had to cut the factory plug off and crimp/splice to the new harness.
Now for the part that sucks. While the body fit of the lid is excellent, there are some shortcomings. The latch is a bit shallow, so it has to be shimmed so that it will latch while still sitting the correct depth. Also, on the factory lid, there is a plate that hides and secures the harness. This decklid doesn't have the provisions to move it over...nor does it have anything to secure the harness to it. Luckily, the harness is stiff enough that when ziptied to itself it stays out of the way...but who knows what happens when it gets warm....so far so good.
Now onto the really bad. It uses a factory Porsche taillight. It's SUPER delicate and designed bad. So badly that Getty Designs tapes a HUGE note on it to not press on the housing and only depress the black retaining spring clips when installing. So, naturally, I was UBER careful and took care installing. Well, It fits like ****. Massive gap underneath the left side and it doesn't sit remotely flush in the hole and sticks out quite a bunch:
Not a big deal...but not ideal considering how much this was and since I paid for the extra prep work.... Considering how bad it fits, it HAS TO BE a known issue that they would atleast address I would think.... So I leave it on and then decide that I'll devote Sunday to hand filing and fitting the light on. I go to put away tools and hear a "pop". I think, "oh cool, the light probably snapped into place and it fits well... Nope. I look on the ground and see this.
The damn light broke under it's own clip spring tension for not fitting well in under 5 minutes. WTF. Now it fits bad AND is broken:
I emailed Getty Designs who was typicallly pretty responsive (answers within a few minutes) and heard nothing back since Thursday. I call and speak with somebody and they kind of just sidestepped the fact that it fits terrible and that it broke under it's own weight just sitting there...I got sidestepped again when I asked about a replacement light. It's otherwise a very nice piece, but that taillight shouldn't fit THAT bad where it breaks when doing exactly what the instructions say AND just sitting there.... I'm going to hand file it down tomorrow, getting it fitting as good as I can and then I guess just reorder a light. I thought about just deleting it and getting it repainted, but it might look a bit odd cause the taillight kinda breaks it up back there...
By 3 or 4 of these and drill some holes. Its how the gt lids r. My getty deck lid fit is meh at best so issues r no suprise. I too had to shim the latch.
Cable Clips - Genuine PorscheG99965126940
Known as: cable holder
$2.37
QTY:
Cannot stand front plates or people the drill them into the bumper from the factory. On my moms new volvo they put a front plate on, here in PA we don't have them. Obviously I wanted to take it off for her but they put some of the most insane nut things on them I have ever seen. As far as I could tell there was no way to remove them. I eventually got them out not completely destroying the bumper but the holes were so big that it was almost the entire size of the bumper plugs. This meant I had to epoxy them on with what little over hang there was. I should have just made her take it back and get a new bumper.
My bumper was butchered from previous owners/plates and brackets, oh well. I did find on ebay, a small plate mount, that inspired me to reduce the plate size, by carefully folding.
And, yes, the local cops around here will stop you for anything they can, including no front plate.
Looks much better than a full sized plate, but from what I understand a folded plate is just as illegal as no plate. When I lived in a front plate state, I just rolled the dice and went with no plate.
I haven't had a front plate on any of my cars going back at least 25 years. In all that time I received a grand total of one ticket and that was back in 2008.
Sometimes you have to roll on the edge. Speaking of rolling on the edge, I'm not taking the radar detector to Monterey Car Week this year because of now rolling on the edge and all.
I like the OEM 997 Shift console upgrade kit. Not a huge change, but just enough to feel. Read some reviews.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/997SCU.html?Category_Code=
Fixed the sticking ignition lock that was taking up to 10 seconds after removing the Kay to make the �ca-chunk� sound. Used CRC QD contact cleaner then Graphite spray on the Key
and now it works great! Was mulling replacing the lock mechanism, glad we dodged that $300 bullet!
After breaking my foot and wearing a massive boot for weeks I finally got to dust it off and drive it down PCH with the Men from UNCLE! That�s what I did to my 996 today!
I have a slightly bent front plate along with a broken plastic bracket I keep under the seat so if I get stopped I can show the cop and explain that it just happened in a parking lot! Haven't had to do it yet but I'm prepared!
Yup, definitely other ways. Mine is mounted using the tow hook threads. I'd love to get rid of it, but I don't have the plug. I recently purchased one, but need to paint it. I have lived in several states, all of which required front plates, and driven through almost all of them, and my 996 is one of two cars that I have ever had a front plate on. Only once did I have an issue, and that was I got a parking ticket in Seattle and they also gave me a ticket for no front plate. I think they were just mad they had to walk around back for the plate number. I have found most cops don't care and I believe in most states it's a secondary offense, meaning they can't pull you over for just that.
I got pulled over for going 85 in my Macan! I was respectful to the officer and I have veteran plates on my car. He told me he was only going to give me a ticket for the no front plate only. Got away clean but when I went to court to show the judge the bent plate and broken bracket. the only thing he offered me was no fine and just pay court costs. THEY were $100!! I could have come back and pleaded my case to the ADA but my time was worth more than that so I paid it...
Yeah, they just like to get their court costs!! I haven't gotten a ticket in years but when I did so long I showed up in court the ADA reduced it to parking on the side of the road and got their court costs! Last time I had a new ada that offered to reduce to 2 minor tickets. I knew she couldn't do that so I thought sure win. The judge looked at it and said the same thing but he wouldn't just drop it. Asked me if I would plead to one of them and give me a $20 fine. I said OK. Court cost and $10. Still worth it for no points!!
I went to the supermarket this morning, 4 minute ride, 4 New York plates. They are coming over here, bidding multiple offers on houses for cash. In my neighborhood houses price right don�t last a week, and itss as to he people from NY and California that are bidding against each other cash offers, $10-$15k over asking prices. Pretty soon NY, is going to loose two senators and 4 congressman, it already happened in California, better be careful the Texans will put them in their place. Don�t mess with Texas.
Jeez I wish it was like that here! Sounds actually reasonable lol.
I am trying to buy a house here in Arizona it's insane. We have lost half a dozen already.
Last week house went on the market for $785k. We bid $903k the same day it went on the market and waived appraisal. Less than 24 hours from when it was listed, it sold to someone else who beat our offer of $118,000 over asking price...
It's fking impossible.
i have bought 7 brand new houses in my life all over the states, where i get to spec what I want. This one I bought in 2000, 1/4 acre, 3500 square ft, huge kitchen, master is 22x15, 4 bedrooms, 3 baths, 15x15 office. Anyway the real estate agent was pissed, i
had an approval for a half a million dollar loan. I bought for $129,300. Today is worth
$325-350. I get people knocking in my front door giving me cash offers. Haha. Two new 16 seer acs, 4 year roof, 4 year old water heater, 2 new stainless steel refrigerators, new dishwasher . Two patios, one
is brick looks like a Mexican restaurant Paid for, I�m not selling crap. Now I�m sitting on the housing bubble to bust and I�m going to buy a foreclosure in a certain subdivision that we like.
Yeah the only upside to the crazy market is the $567k cash offer I got on the house I paid $245k for in 2015.
May be forced into keeping this one though.
If you think that�s bad, my business partner bought a building for our shop in a neighborhood that had an apartment above it in2015. I lived in it and told myself �the houses in the neighborhood are $35-50k�I�ll save up and buy cash in 2-3 years�what�s the highest they could get to in 2-3 years, 60k???�
As time went on and the neighborhood got nicer and nicer, business got established and better�I didn�t even think about real estate prices. Go to look at houses in 2017 and the house down the street that was $35k was $155k�for a 900sqft mill home. Fast forward to today, it just sold for $455k�for 900sqft. I literally got priced out of my own neighborhood that I helped gentrify�wtf.
Prices for houses are crazy for the following reasons: 1. Materials are extremely expensive, there is still room for wood to come down. 2. Labor, it is said by 2026, 4 years the housing building industry needs 2 million additional workers, which most people are getting ahead of this problem saying that they need to encourage more young people to get into this craft. The current construction workforce is older and some will be retiring soon. 3. Interest rates, they were extremely cheap so that allowed people to buy a more expensive house. My first 15 year mortgage in 1990 with excellent credit and 25 percent down was 9.9 percent. 4. There�s not enough inventory in the market certain markets don�t even have 6 weeks worth of inventory, normal is closer to 120-160 days. 5. What you just said about gentrifying a neighborhood. The millenials which is the largest generation in years and are also in their prime earning years want instant gratification, most where spoiled by their parents and they are not the type to move a little farther out buy new and let everything else come latter. About a month ago we looked at a new house. Great energy efficient, a little smaller, chef kitchen 3 car garage . We both liked it, but when we drove back we realized that it was 25 minutes at least to get to the places we go and the things we do. As an example our son with a disability works at outback, for him his peeps coworkers are his friends, including his bff a woman who we think he is love with, and an awesome owner who has given him a chance that many would not, taking him to work and picking him up would take at least an hour of our time. our son will never be able to drive, due to his disability. So neither my wife and i were willing to move that far out. 6. Builders are not building a huge amount of specs homes to have them sit on the market and then have to offer a bunch of incentives to move them out, as a bunch of car dealers are doing they want customers to order prior to build.
I purchased the shift right a few weeks back and finally worked up the courage and energy to take off the center console and rebuild it with the nice billet machined aluminum SR kit. It went pretty smoothly, the instructions are decent although like anything when you are a newb there were a few things noticeable absent.
For example, the snapon thingy that covers the shifter cable ends at the rear of the shifter cradle. I realize that's not a shift kit procedure, rather center console and shifter removal procedure, but it would have been nice. I had this plastic 'bug' like thing after I had slipped the console over the upgraded shifter.
I wanted to keep the stock 996 shifter. I realize that for a 400$ (or less) I could have installed the 997 cradle and shifter and saved myself the labor. But, I love puzzles. As a newb mechanic at 57, I felt a real sense of achievement when I rowed through the gears the first time. Everything feels better, no more slop, and a real positive 'you have selected reverse' instead of the mushbox experience pre upgrade. The shifter guts were 22 yrs old, so it's to be expected.
A couple of things.
If you are going this route and you do not own these pliers (or similar) get some. It made installing the circlips so easy -
Amazon
Amazon
.
If you are going to do this job, you might as well go ahead and order Shift Cable Ends 996-424-147-00-M100 and 996-424-145-01-M253. Mine, especially the fore/aft one, was utterly destroyed. See pic. While you have the console off, definitely worth it. I got mine at the bird but you can bundle them w the Shift Right. I bought shift right through flat6, no special reason, I think a google search took me there first.
If like me you are taking blood thinners and / or are old and have paper thin skin on your hands, invest in some 5 mm nitrile gloves. Your hands will thank you, there are some sharp bits.
The biggest gotcha here is that you will likely scratch up your handbrake housing, drivers side, when you remove the console, rear first, towards the passenger side. I threw some tape on the contact points when I saw what I had done and before I made it worse. If you have a newer handbrake housing, in good condition, be warned. Mine is the original and was already fairly grungy, as are a lot of the interior plastic bits. So far I have replaced the light console housing and sunroof switch, but there are plenty of weekend projects in the old girl yet.
That's ridiculous. I had no idea. I lived there for a couple years with no front plate and never had an issue. I guess maybe I got lucky? Although when I lived there cops never really pulled people over in Boston for ANYTHING. The interstates were a different story though...
I know it is secondary here in WA.
One of the first things I did to my 996 when I took possession was to replace the transmission mount and the motor mounts. She was saggin'. Mines a manual, but the mount refresh helped with the shifting. With the shift right installation this weekend, I feel like that part of the car is 'done'.
Finally installed the CSF center radiator, upgraded the sides, replaced the 20+ year old rubber, and modified the wheel liners/fan ducts. Fortunately my daughter took long naps this weekend. Need to make a few cuts before everything goes back together.
off course there are a few traits of millennials that I don�t like or comprehend, completely different from my parents born in 1939 and myself 1968. Certain things behavior of millennials have funded my retirement because I been investing in front of them. To the point that I make more retired than when I was
working. They should keep on drinking $8 lattes, Frappuccino�s and keep on buying and subscribing to whatever Apple does or develops. Remember they are now in their Prime earning years, most of them are being told that they haven�t saved enough for retirement so guess where their future savings are going to go, they are buying stocks many many years after me so my net worth portfolio size continue to increase, specially when more and more people questioned the future of social security. Go millennials go.
did you have any issues filling the tank? I don�t have any CEL or the whistling issue but tried to fill up and it wouldn�t take any gas so I am assuming it is the fuel tank vent valve.
Good thing you didn't go the stock 997 shifter route. I think you would have been disappointed. There's not a whole lot of difference between a 996 and 997 stock shifter. Visually, they looked the same to me side by side. In operation, they felt the same to me.
YIKES!!!!
Why do you have the hoses to your quick jacks disconnected when extended? That is a HUGE nono! You're going to need the strength of a Gorilla to get those hooked back up!
thanks for the post and pics Nate. I have been mulling over this same mod for a while
now and that brake light fit would drive me crazy! I don�t mind the wire harness hanging so much, but for the money spent on the ducktail, this would infuriate me. Hope you get it resolved with Getty eventually and post more pics.
Yeah, they�re just getting bombarded by emails and were slow to reply, but Mark from Getty did me right and sent out another light.
I ended up filing and trimming the hole and got the current light to fit�probably a B+ if I had to give the fit of it a grade. I superglued that end that broke off and now it just looks like a stress fracture or age crack when up really close. I clear RTVd the light in place on the inside of the spoiler where the light rests against an internal brace to take some stress off the clips and to keep it lined up as it could potentially shift from all the filing I did. Removing the light to replace it would probably break it, so I�ll just replace it if it breaks again.
I thought of just having the whole thing shaved off and filled in, but the light does a good job of breaking up all the blank space. Maybe down the line if I get tired of dealing with the light 😂
Car is at indy replacing a few critical parts as well as going over the engine and rubber/plastics bits with a fine tooth comb.
Replacing IMSB Retro, Porsche Motorsports AOS with UAOS, Factory Oil Cooler, LN Low Temp Thermostat, and RMS. Clutch and flywheel are good but will take a look anyways.
Found a cooling hose that has a very slow leak. Probably find a few more things.
More to come.
Me too, love it. Tomorrow I've got the raceseng shift **** install, that thing is sick. Black w alcantara and red stitching, my new boot is black alcantara with two dark red racing stripes 😎
Put a MR12VOLT Bluetooth! adapter in the frunk. About a 10-minute install. Works amazing. No need to take the dash apart to install behind the PCM! Only thing that is hard is runing the mic through the firewall into the driver area.
installed raceseng stratose shift **** w alcantara and red stitching today. Custom boot in alcantara w racing stripes by JF Customs UK. Mats by cocomats. 😎
I started about 5 am in the morning washing the car and wheels. About 8:30 went to cars and coffee. About 10:30 I felt exhausted drunk, so
i took a nap reclining my seat. Drove it home at
11:30, it was hot and humid so ac was on and I wasn�t really getting on the car. Got home checked all the fluids, no coolant In oil, intermix issues, etc, ready for next weeks adventure.
Love that blue. Car has been modified suspension brakes, exhaust. It�s a pdk.
Good turnout maybe 30 cars total.
Got to love those 996s.
Put up and ready for next weekend.
I did the same, my mechanic insisted it needed to be done, and with the upgraded shifter and the new mounts, it's much better than the slushbucket it was.
Received and installed a new headlight.
This looks SO much better.
The best thing about the 996 is the easy headlight swap.
In 5 minutes, I can easily swap between my standard 996.2 headlights and my headlights with covers.
It’s also a 15 minute(2 person) job to swap rear decks/spoiler/wings.
All pictures of the same 996.
Damage yes I do they are snug but comfortable and for the price I could not go wrong
I�m 6�1 and 260 like I said snug
I couldn�t fit in their copy of the 996 gt3 seats mine recline at least but they looked sweet also
Mike
I don't suppose you have a list of the hardware needed to install them do you? Or did they come with all the bits? I would love to make my car lighter. My oem seats are in good shape tho. Decisions...I don't plan on selling this car so I can do whatever I guess. Might be the last car I buy, other than one for my son to be 16 son. I'm going to really try and delay him getting behind the wheel.
RantDriving is a privilege not a right, despite what so many seem to feel, based on their driving habits. Many folks must be so important, based on the rush they seem to be in. Ugh. I'm so blessed to have no commute, and can afford grocery delivery.
/RantI only drive for pleasure, so I pick my journey times whenever possible. So it will be fine for that Sunday morning drive. Be safe and enjoy. Remember your 996 hates driving along under 3k rpm. 😎👍
I�m 5�11� 260. I got into
a 4.0 Gt3 RS and the carbon fiber seats where to tight for my as?. Now I took a one hour nap yesterday sleeping on the seats of my car, sleep like a baby. I�m pretty sure my car would be faster if i
loose some weight but love the IPAs, bourbons and meats way too much, the twice a week mandatory pizza doesn�t help either.
For the second day in a row I jacked her up and tried, with very little success, to get the mufflers to come off. I spent 50.00 on some Flippy ratcheting box end wrenches, 13mm is what is needed to remove the 3 bolts holding the muffler to the bracket as per the pictures in the 101 book and pelican. I did manage to loosen 3 bolts holding the mufflers to the cats, except one bolt that looks like a rust experiment. The nuts on the brackets are going to be slightly more difficult and beyond my meager abilities. Despite the ratcheting wrenches there's just not room on the bottom one to get the wrench in. I gave up on it, used blaster on all the bolts again, and instead took another wheel off and cleaned all the filth and brake dust off the back of it, most of it anyway. At least I can manage that...
So, I'm looking for options. Rather then take it to my Indy, I'm thinking I'll order all the hardware, everything needed for the exhaust replacement (I have headers and xpipe 200 cell cats coming, the valved mufflers are here already) and call around / do some research on exhaust specialists here in Wilmington NC, and call around asking for help. Does they make sense? Exhaust specialists probably have more experience drilling manifold bolts and cutting stupidly mounted brackets off than an import specialist shop right? Unless, the motor needs to be dropped to get the presumably seized and broken off manifold bolts out of the block?
Maybe it's not needed? Has anyone any experience with this tool, sounds like it's a fix that can be done without dropping the motor?
https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog...repair-kit.htm
Thanks all.
Yes, the Stromski Tool is a MUST HAVE when repairing the broken exhaust bolts. IT is well designed and makes the operation much more precise and a better fit than trying to do it by hand/eyeball.
If the heads are off, they can be flipped and drilled out in a drill press/milling machine, but the Stromski Tool makes this unnecessary ..
my mechanic did these on my early 996. Yes these year these bolts where there for 24 years, out of the 12 6 broke, he did not use the tool but a lot of time, patience and rust whatever remover. He welded some nuts to some of them, but that only solved a few . Threads on some where trashed. Depending how many bad ones you have you could be looking at $500-$900 to get them out repair. I think that tool that porsche tech refer to
its the clue. De Jeeper has one go ahead and rent it from him.
@damage98MO
I�ve had success removing the three muffler nuts with an long neck power ratchet or a breaker bar or a ratchet with a pipe slid over the end for leverage, after soaking with copious amounts of PB.
ACDelco ARW1218-3P G12 Series 12V Li-ion Cordless 3/8� 40 ft-lbs. Extended Ratchet Wrench Tool Kit
Amazon
Amazon
Thank you Tom, worth a shot for sure. Pouring down rain today and I'm working anyway, but I'll get her up and do a 3rd dose of blaster before the ups truck arrives. I really need a garage with my own lift. Being a hobbyist mechanic in townhouse residence is a pita. I wonder how long before a neighbor complains about my activities. I try to be the very best neighbor, and I have been, I think, but you never know. I'm an owner, which may help, and I know most of the folks around me, but it only takes one. Or one in a grouchy mood. Time to check the HOA rules. Any renntech members or PCA members in Wilmington, NC area who enjoy scraping knuckles and sharing expertise, please, dm me 🙏. I've been meaning to ask on the local FB group but it does feel a bit presumptuous and needy. I've always preferred to go it alone, but maybe I need some help this time. Certainly with the headers, but I 'should' be able to do the cats and mufflers. Shoulda coulda woulda. Have a great week all. And thanks to everyone who has made suggestions, very appreciated.
Reach out to your local P-club and see if someone has some space for you to work in. If you lived in San Antonio, Tx, your car would be in my air conditioned garage up on quick jacks!
Been super busy but over the last few days I got her inspected and deep cleaned the interior after evicted the mice that had taken up residence in the car.
The first time I saw yellow headlights was in France in 1986.
It was weird seeing them in the city(Strasbourg) at night.
I wonder if they would even be legal here in Texas.
I doubt they would.
Even in France yellow lights are illegal now on any car produced after 1993
Apart from the charm and nostalgia factor (that would work only in France I guess), it has zero advantage over the white ones (apart from not blinding the other drivers)...
Figured this did not need its own thread. When I was cleaning out my car the other day I found this cable. Didn't see anything jump out at me but there isn't much room under the seat. This was the passenger seat.
Poured a wee bit of water into the open sunroof at the 4 corners and observed the correct drippage from the corresponding drain locations behind each wheel. Cleaned out the under hood drains.
tried out a fresh battery in my fob. Still no remote action. But, I did learn that if you don't use your remote for 5 days, it disables itself to save the battery. Insert your key into door lock, unlock, and leave the key in. Press the lock / unlock button to wake up the fob remote. Or, it is supposed to. They key I got with my car seems to only unlock doors and start the ignition. But it has to be coded to the car, or ignition would not work right? I'll keep looking into it. Getting my new brass, already cut, and fob coded next week by my local Indy. I'll see what he says. My Indy is massively skilled and freaking awesome. Yeah he's expensive but, you get what you pay for. Porsche Center Wilmington, when I called them to ask about servicing / drilling the broken off 4 manifold header bolts, just out of curiosity and trying to be a careful consumer, said, we can't do that kind of work. But we can sell you a new block... When I asked for their rec on where to go, they recommended, you guessed it, my Indy. Said he's highly recommended by everyone in town. I have to agree. He's a lifesaver.
Drove the car to porsche north Houston. This is a premier dealership with no cars to sell. Many cars, I actually had to park in the overflow parking the McLaren dealership. Put the for sale sign in it. A few interested parties already. Finally when I got home was surprise by the odometer mileage. Had an awesome day.
Lot of money at the meet huge amount of gt3 and newer cars 2020 and newer. Shark blue is an awesome color.
Just a random picture, parking lot was full. I spent quite a bit of time talking to people that were interested in my car.
Surprise surprise look at odometer mileage . As it is sitting on my driveway
This is a total guess, but maybe the Porsche factory pre-wired for heated seats if you don�t have them (or non-heated replacement seats in a heated seat option car?)
Took the 996 up to Tamworth NH to watch my friend run his kart. I made great time following a pickup truck with MA plates who was obviously in a rush. Our speeds were, well, speedy. On the way home a 991 entered the highway right behind me. For the next 40 miles we switched it up playing Follow the Leader. The car ran great and really settled in at "speedy" speeds. Front felt a little floaty, but at the same time the car felt planted. I've been running the rear tires at 40psi cold and left the fronts at 36psi. I may drop the front air pressure down to 34 cold and see how it feels. The 20 year old suspension feels a bit tired when going over expansion joints on the road. That project will have to wait a while.
All in all it was a great drive, almost 200 miles, and definitely fun to let the car stretch its legs!
Working on the 02 C2 installing the L&N solution IMS bearing, found the car has the L&N single row install already done 49K miles ago, also found out the Fault-less install kit does not come with adapter to remove the L&N bearing, L&N stud uses fine thread, and the exiting tool has course thread for the OEM thread, So had to order the adapter that is available from L&N and also found out that the adapter comes in the timing kit ???? why not in the fault-less install kit which is for removing and installing the ISM bearing?
Damn homie. I had intermix last year. Ended up being a cracked head. All fixed, but the repair wasn't cheap. The worst part is the first two shops I took it to wasted quite a bit of my money on wrong diagnoses, even though I told them it was likely a cracked head.
Yuck and yuck! Sorry to see this. Wishing for a quick painless repair. If possible, flush the oil out of the cooling system as soon as possible. Save hoses.
Got a half a$$ bath for cars and coffee tomor. Although i used the turtle wax brand bug and tar remover amd it was like magic for the 6 track days of tire marble streaks. A couple spots took 2 applications but man it looks a lot better with minimal effort.
If I had my pick, I'd be taking the Daytona home, and you know how much I love your car... so that's saying something.
Tell me it didn't have a 5.0 in it.... please.
Thank god he didn't ruin it with a 5.0. Thats a nice setup - I would love to build one for the street if I ever stop spending money on the fun car I have now.
I’m getting ready to defend year end crown with first concours of year …Bring It!
I was cleaning light housing and thinking about why are these side marker and parking(part of brake dual) still don’t work. I grabbed my borescope that was so handy when changing power steering pump and started poking in some usually inaccessible areas. I just read a forum write up about how this enthusiast found RODENT damage just shy of rear fire wall where grommet is for harness. Look at what I discovered. Some rat went to town on these wires. I had looked in this hole previously but with a naked eye. But boy did this rat have a field day. My car sat for several months in storage over winter 2 years and from the foam it looks like I had a boarder.
…okay so from the Bentley Bible it shows some slack in this harness after going through the wall . It may be enough to pull it out and repair otherwise removal of coolant reservoir and air pump will expose and give room to work. Next project …..
I have a perfectly working headlight switch for sale at half retail $90 plus ship…LMK. Don’t think rat is here but will put out traps…lots of neighbors cats hang around tho…hmmm
Creepy
Wonder if there is some slack in the harness to pull through this wall…
Here is my note when I first looked months ago with naked eye but big Ted circle is where damage is
I bet that rat **** copper and plastic for days…hope so..haha
Behind coolant reservoir
I'm with MBH 911 on the looks. Our cars have amazing side and rear views. The front view, eh, is okay. But nothing beats the lines of the side and rear.
went for a rip
ordered some General tires because I'm a cheap *** and decided its not worth springing for the PS4s this time
I had PSS on my C5 and always regretted spending so much money on them because its totally pointless for my driving and skill level
more money for mods this way
How much were the Generals? I took a risk and got Firestone Firehawk Indy 500's (~$750 with tax) and honestly have been happy with them. Still breaking in so don't have complete traction, but some of the twistier roads have still been able to pedal pretty hard and felt confident in the grip.
I bought a folding bike (Dahon) that fits nicely in the back seat. Now I don't have to take my wife's SUV when I want to ride my bike on the boardwalk at Jones Beach. (Bought a bag/cover for it so no worries about scratching the leather)
Just got my car back today from my indy after my second visit in two months. Going thru my second 10 year refresh of key parts to keep it running in top shape.
The first visit in March was to look inside the sump and engine for debris and scoring. Happy to say engine is in excellent shape with smooth bores, clean sump without bits and debris and clean oil.
Also replaced engine mounts and fuel injectors since I had accumulated a new set of injectors over the year and thought there was no better time to replace. Coils, plugs, oxy sensors, MAF, water pump and coolsnt tank were all relatively new. Went thru brakes and suspension components as well.
The second visit was over the past few weeks, where the engine was dropped and we did the important stuff for engine longevity. Replaced my Porsche motorsports AOS with the UAOS Track version (see picture). Also replaced LNE IMS Retro with a new Retro, new RMS, new oil cooler and new low temp thermostat.
In addition, had my Guard LSD rebuilt, went thru the water cooling system with a fine tooth comb, and had them perform an alignment to make sure it was still set to GT3 specs. My wallet is much lighter but the car and I are very happy knowing the key parts are new and risk of engine failure is once again mitigated.
Car waiting for me in the rain.
Damn good looking engine with new UAOS.
Engine was just dropped.
Another view of UAOS
New oil cooler
Had to rebuild LSD
All in all, a very good day.
GC thanks for sharing. My cars going in this June for the UAOS with the drain back- Skip is sending it out my way as we speak. Finally doing a fresh DT-40 oil change next week and getting the car on the road- works been eating all my time. Did all of the same items you did this year- last year when my engine was dropped. Literally spaced out and missed the water pump- it is about 7.5 years old, so that�s also being done when my cars in this June. Glad to see your progress and a clean bill of health for your car!
Nice car! I have very rough 17" turbo twists on my 'dentists special' in meridian metallic. I'm going to take them somewhere and get them rejuvenated, and stick w 17s. It's so low key and chill to ride on them.
Thanks Sam-Son. The oil cooler isn't known as a problem like the aos, ims or rms, but the seals get old and their is a supposed possible intermix issue that is rumored to happen. So I figured why not replace it since the engjne was dropped just in case. Cheap part. $185 or so.
Thanks C2. I know you have been on top of everything as you are refreshing your parts and building your 996 to your specs. My indy really likes the design and capabilities of the UAOS. So do I.
Soon once I get the wrapping off the roof and get it detailed I will post
by the way thanks guys for the positive energy we are all pretty privileged regardless of which year you drive
but I’m pleased with my progress so far
... When the battery is disconnected, and you forgot it was, and clicked the frunk shut. There's plenty of posts on how to deal with it, but I have the easiest solution. Call GEICO roadside and catch up on some British GT. works a treat.
treat. Once that was sorted, I installed 15mm spacers on the rears and torqued the wheels back on with my new torque wrench. Nice. Still waiting for 7mm fronts. But I doubt anyone will notice.
I went for two drive this weekend just because I love the noise my new exhaust system makes. Headers, 200 cell xpipe cats and valved mufflers all by topgear UK. Sounds amazing, but man I'm glad I can turn them down. It's a must have imho. I have ordered O2 sensor extension things because I've already had CES with accompanying rough engine. Oh, and I added a quart of motul 1800 excess v2 or whatever it's called. My car definitely burns a bit of oil. A quart in 3 months of very light driving. After the summer I'm going to start getting serious about a new engine or rebuild. Just turned 96k miles. I agree with the other post I read today, if you can't budget for 12k plus engine work, don't own an old car, least of all a Porsche. You have to really love these things.
Oh and I also installed my dark red racing stripes x2 on black alcantara, padded, armrest cover. It's a glue on, and looks awesome. Got it from redline goods. A matching handbrake cover, minus the racing stripes but with red thread, is here but I have to remove the center console to properly install it. Ran out of time. But the effect of these small personalizations is pure joy. 22yr old interiors need sprucing up as much as the mechanicals do. 😊
Finished up the console delete. I had to dye the Boxster Red carpet (boy is that a bad shade). It is a little light still but unless I am in direct sunlight it is not too bothersome. More annoying was what to do with the seat heater switches. I spent a few hours unsuccessfully trying to pull them back up to the top console. Ended up making a hidden box under the plastic insert in front of the shifter. When I want to use it, I pop off the plastic insert. I am satisfied (for now).
Imagine Ipanema Blue Crossed with Ocean Jade. It's not close since Miami is more true blue. My wife says she says very little blue in Cool Turqoise, but my eyes see a lot of green pop.
I've got some sample cards, including Miami Blue. I'll post the side by side comparison today
-Matt
It's killing me that these are still in the back of my Cayenne. I think I need a new job, or no job...
So the next question will be how to complete the full aero on a 996.2 cab. It seems there was no follow up to the 996.1 spoiler for the cab.
Should have them on the car on Saturday!
May I ask what size are those tires? I'm about to replace my HRE wheels with OEM hollow turbo look wheels back on to my 2000 996 cab, but debating if I should go a size bigger on the tires.
I mean no disrespect in asking you this but... are you happy with the paint job on your front and rear bumpers and side skirts? I ask because they're not even close to matching the body color. I want to swap out my rear bumper but when I see that, it makes me think twice about trying to match paint that's a couple decades old.
No offense taken actually I changed out my front bumper that you see in the pics I put back the original aero on
the skirts and the rear are scheduled to get painted again because glacier white is very” blue“ on the body and the age difference makes another issue
I have never seen body shop guy swear or sweat as much as when I walk in his door lol he’s done work for me 30 years
he is a Lamborghini owner and does show cars for bmw m club and Ferrari of new Jersey
I look at my car 996 as a driving project my E30 M3 took 15 years to get it to the point of satisfaction
idk what it is about Porsches but I don't know if I've ever seen a picture of a decent paint match. I'm actually really hesitant about respraying mine for rock chips because of how hard it seems to get a match.
That's why I didn't try and go cheap when I had a rear decklid and Carrera wing painted. I think it's a bit of an art and the metallic paints are even trickier. In my case, I removed the fuel filler door so my painter would have something with original paint to attempt the match.
I'm happy with how it turned out and I don't think anyone would think it's not original. I'm getting ready to have an Aerokit front bumper done and I'll be crossing my fingers for a good match on that too.
I thought of doing some easy stuff, i.e. no crawling into tight places and contorting my body type stuff. Wanted to remove some black rubber from the cabriolet top on the front windshield frame and repaint a botched sun visor paint job from a prior sticker removal fix. Well both were annoyingly not fast or simple. The rubber smodge took forever with alcohol and goo b gone. I hope the smoodge I removed is not a special wind seal or something important.
The visor … well lets say don’t sand the visor cover in situ as it will break the fastening tabs. Oh well, its done and looks a little better after I epoxy glued the fastener back together. The picture is a before pic of the ugly previous paint. I have not got a final pic as it is still drying.
And I did not have to crawl under the steering wheel or under the car!
looks like Ebay has aftermarket covers for $14. Amazon $17 also aftermarket just click on the link peterp gave
Pelican parts sells the whole mirror and cover for about $150
ordered a NOS black ebrake assembly (only $100!)
and cheap black shift boot as I try to replace all the light wood in the car.
Going to order a base black center console kit from suncoast soon to complete this.
big unknown though is the shiftknob. I'm going to check it today but I'm not sure what "style" I need to be looking for regarding a replacement.
I know its not a threaded one, so I should look for something with a set screw?
I'm having trouble finding specific information and I'm not looking to spend $200 on a basic aluminum shift **** because the application says "Porsche"
Stopped by the local porsche dealership today to pick up a 996.1 oil dipstick to use with my news UAOS so I can run an extra quart of oil in my 3.6. I know, not very exciting.
But I did see a very cool 918. Still very few new or used cars available for sale. Sounds just like the housing market.
Ordered new drive belts and pulleys.
just did stainless brake lines, fluid, rear wing bellow, under tray, adjustment of the shift cables. After all that I took it on another rally. Still have to do the rennline throttle pedal hinge.
Fair enough, I totally get they're a work in progress. I'd have to get that resprayed too, I have an exceptional eye for color and that would drive me up a wall. I'm interested to see what it looks like after the respray!
Mine looked as faded as yours, However, I tried the Cerakote plastic trim treatment, and it looks as good as your new part (IMHO) I don't know how long it last, but even a new part will eventually fade as well.
Bonus is, I did not have to R+R any parts.
Apologies for no pics at this time.
I did the same. Mine was not quite that gray, but I think it looks great now that I've freshened it up. Like you I don't how long the good looks will last.
Drove it home from Vegas back to So Cal this morning. Longest road trip I�ve taken in the eight months I�ve had this one and it was great. Don�t usually drive the 996 on business trips like this.
While in Vegas, took a couple of long drives up the 215 to Summerlin, and what a great freeway that is. Especially just as the sun sets over the mountains.
A quick **** break out in the desert this. morning, and took the pic below.
Glad to hear you got it taken care of without too much drama and that it didn't require you to come back on a Sunday.
(you should have taken a shot next to the world's tallest thermometer
)
Thanks man. Yeah, I was relieved that a Porsche shop on the south end of town - right near my hotel - was able to give me the good news that the code was for a bad purge valve (a small and easily accessible item), and he assured me I could drive it back to LA with no concerns.
I have to say that in 30 years of driving to Vegas (gotta be around 100 times), I�ve always avoided the Friday and the Sunday traffic to and from town. Not that I haven�t been stuck in one or two quasi tailgate parties on the 15 when there was a wreck.
Pulled apart way too many things to fix the dreaded old foam flying out of the vent issue.
Sadly, this was the THIRD time I pulled apart way too many things to fix the flying foam thing!
First time, I didn�t put enough new foam on the stupid damper flap so was getting too much heater core warmth leakage on the low temperature setting.
Second time, I put too much foam on the stupid damper flap, created too much seal, creating too much friction / drag inside the mixing box, making the tiny little motor turning the flap work way, way too hard.
Third time, I nailed it! I�m utterly confident I can manage this chore on any 996 with two tries at the MOST from here on in.
Truly, it�s a nasty little job, but a true do it yourselfer. Costs nothing but time, maybe 10 bucks for some new material, thousands of brain cells, a sore back, tired eyes, aching fingers, a couple of bandages, and half a bag of Canadian high test.
Satisfying in the end though, ain�t it?
i understand, mine was just not the fading, the right side tab was broken which caused it to lift. I figured, just replace the whole thing and call it a day.
Took about an hour.
Did you replace your stock bumper with the one currently on the car? I picked up a 02 996 and have been looking to add that style of bumper (or maybe a C4S conversion) and skirts. If so where did you pick them up? Thanks!
Bumper:
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKU996G2AERO.html
Skirts:
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/00004480215.html
There's of course aftermarket options like Getty and such but OEM kit looks best. And that's a completely biased opinion.
That bumper was installed by the previous owner.
He planned on doing a full aerokit, but decided it cost too much.
I added a Aerokit I (Taco) spoiler, side skirts, and now the GT3RS deck with carbon fiber wing.
Was awesome to meet you and the suspension went on easy, a sign of a car that�s been well cared for.
Your car drove great with the ohlins, at least, it very much reminded me of mine - so I hope after you put some miles on it, you love it and think it�s great too.
Was great to work on and drive a 911 again today, thanks Mike for the opportunity and kind words. You�re a cool cat and one of the good ones in my book.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_2442_b92bce7105a17154b65ded6767271359e7d32e4e.jpeg
First pic with GT3 wheels. Dirty car, bad picture.
Original 17" wheels
First drive this morning. 2 things I can say right now: Everything is heavier. Steering, braking, suspension response. This should not have been a surprise, but how much heavier was definitely a surprise. The entire character of the car is different. Second, grip is ridiculous. Maybe I don't need brakes.
It will take some days to get used to the new car. Gotta go drive!!!
The plan was to install the 997 turbo rear belly pan, ducts and scoops.
The stock belly pan next to the 997. I could see right away that it wasn't going to be plug and play.
It's going to take some modifications if it works at all so I'm setting it aside for another day.
The scoops went on with just a little trimming of some tabs.
Lots of sand behind the plastic guard thingies ahead of the rear wheels.
I cleaned the stone guard thingies and the wheel well liners and put everything back together.
And changed the oil.
Installed some 45deg O2 sensor spacers after the freshly installed headers, 200 cell cats, and went for a serious fun test drive. I love the wail of this new exhaust and I love it's almost 2 cars, when I push the valve switch. Nice job topgear UK. Driving such a tiny car on the highway it's nice to be loud. Not that I drive aggressively not at my age. Those days are long gone. Peele keep passing me even when I feel like I'm speeding..
also have completed led bulb installs in the rear cluster, backups are seriously bright and brake lights briefly flash then go solid red. Only incandescent left are turn signals, Amber LEDs are tough to find but have some Chinese ones on the way from amzn. Fronts are half done worth retrofit labs, waiting for parts.
Wanted to do the front and rear seats and drop links but it's too bloody hot. I need a garage.
Replaced a parking lamp in my passenger side headlight. Wiring looked great !
Removed my front bumper to take it the body shop to get repaired, holes filled and then repainted. Cleaned out the radiators while I was in there.
It must have been a long time since anyone was in here, as wasp tried to build a condo in my car.
Going to be a week or so before I get my bumper back, if they do it right. Longer if they screw it up.
Inside front bumper showing damage to license plate holes.
I do have two adjustable rear upper camber control arm dog bones per side. I just snapped a pic after the first one was on. I’m putting these on as suggested by my local Porsche dealership who couldn’t quite get the camber to spec a couple of years ago. If this doesn’t rectify things..well, I will just buy more stuff. I’m taking it in for another alignment tomorrow. My indy doesn’t do this final bit of alignment but also feel this is likely going to spare me buying tires every 2000 miles.
PO lowered it a bit with H&R springs. I really didn’t like the car for the first several years as it had terrible road noise, which I thought was from the rear tires, so did my (previous) Indy. As it turned out, after yet ANOTHER set of new rear tires didn’t lessen the road noise I figured it was a bearing or something. The (new) Indy checked it out, replaced the (real bad) bearing and whaddayaknow, I’ve got a real nice riding, relatively quiet snazzy sports car in my stable.
So. I’ve had these gizmo dog bones in a box in my garage for a couple of years. I know I should have done them earlier but my golf game
needed a tune up way more than the rear camber on the third car. I can always buy tires, hitting more greens takes work.
Let us know how it turns out. In my experience, its difficult to match 20 year old paint without blending. I've been wanting to do this myself with the front bumper, but afraid the end result would bother me.
Good to know but just want to double stress the toe bars. The tarret ones r real nice with the eccentric bolt delete, about $600. Make sure your alignment guys has the rear 1-2mm toe in or the inside tread will look like that again in 1k miles.
That's not camber wear on that tire. That's toe wear. You need an adjustable rear toe arm as has been suggested.
I'm going to edit this to add that adjusting those dog bones is not the answer for anything. Adjusting only one is going to lead to such problems that you will wish you were somewhere else. Adjusting only one is going to lead to huge toe changes with wheel compression, ie, huge bump steer. It's also going to change the roll centers making them no longer in line with the axle centerline. Please don't do it. If you must fix camber use adjustable lower control arms.
Remember camber doesn't wear tires that much. Lots of us run 3, 4, or 5 degrees of camber and don't have that kind of tire wear. Excessive toe out wears the inner part of the tire just like your picture.
Hmmm. I’m pretty close to cancelling my alignment appointment now.
You guys are downright adamant.
Edit: Cancelled the alignment schedule. Finished installing the (four) upper dogbones. Fiddled with this, that and the other things on the cool new stuff. I think I get it. I just ordered the adjustable rear toe arms.
If nothing else, the overdue dog bone install was, yet again, a nice little driveway project.
Thanks fellows.
I can't believe the alignment shop couldn't figure this out, perhaps they adjusted the toe as far as possible with the factory stock adjuster and then just gave up. Lowering the car improves the handling, and increases rear toe. The factory adjuster can't cope with that.
All you need is a set of these:
https://tarett.com/collections/contr...torsport-style
or these
https://www.rennline.com/adjustable-...m-kit-sku-s62/
or something similar. Google up "996 adjustable rear toe arm" and avoid the china ebay ones.
That's my understanding with regards to toe wear versus camber wear. Common misconception. I think the GT3 control arms give camber but, correct me if I am wrong, Don't address the toe adjustment. Is that Right?
Yes, the shop ran out of factory adjustment. I’m pretty sure they suggested the upper dog bones, but I could have researched myself up, down and sideways before I ordered what I thought was needed. I ordered as you suggested. On their way.
This is exactly what we r saying. Some of us have been been through several tires quickly because alignment shops dont even know there is an aftermaket solution for toe. Even worse they dont mention its a problem.
The GT3 arms give more camber adjustment. Because the camber adjustment is behind the wheels adding camber in the rear increases toe-out. The rears have only a degree or so of adjustment which is not nearly enough when adding rear camber or lowering the car. Because of the suspension geometry lowering the rear also has the effect of increasing toe-out.
Good on you, those will do the trick.
Decided to slap on 28mm spacers in the back, just as an experiment. To my surprise, no rubbing at all! Also have 28mm spacers in the front. About -2 degrees of camber all around and 265 tires in the back.
For the price, unless they're absolute trash, I just can't bring myself to spend the money. I put PSS on my corvette and always felt like an absolute ******* for spending all that money on tires for my driving skill and use cases.
that looks awesome.
what were you shopping for though?
Mike I would have cooked some meats for you and Jason. Off course I would have also provided some beverages. Awesome way to spend a day. Let me know how it rides now.
Add me to the list of people happy that their GT3 console arrived. I was worried that the black would clash against the gray carpet, but it just disappears into the shadows under the dash.
Old up top, new on the bottom:
Replaced my mounts today�you can see how much they needed to be replaced�
Weird thing though, when I went to go jack up/support the engine, I could fit the jack and a piece of wood under there. Got in a half pump to support it before it started unweighting the suspension. Started on the passenger side and as soon as I got the nut completely loose, it started to sag. Ended up having to jack up the motor about an inch or so so that the brace was up against the body to get the nut threaded on the mount. Repeated for the driver�s side and it sagged a little, but I snugged it back up. You could tell the mounts were sagging a bit (besides visually) because now my exhaust tips are up against the bumper.
I go to lower the jack and when all the way down, the jack had to be pryed out from underneath the sump with a reasonable amount of wiggling. But, the exhaust tips were still up against the bumper whereas before there was probably almost an inch. Also, the airbox was a million times easier to get reinstalled because it lined up way better, the throttle body was also noticeably closer to the top of the engine bay.
How is it the engine and exhaust sits higher, but the sump lower???
The test drive though�.those mounts must be way worse than they look cause all/any nvh is gone, it corners better, shifts better, and just rides soooo much smoother. I also don�t get any of the occasional weird noises when shutting the engine off.
Finally got around to getting my car out for the season up here in Ohio! Fresh DT40, new spin on filter and some great driving time! Next project to tackle will be my UAOS with the drainback and a fresh water pump. Tackling some age related maintenance items
Did you also do the transmission mount? I had that and the engine mounts done by my indy, when he was dropping the engine anyway, and doing a whole bank vault worth of other stuff, and yeah it fixed the shifting and the NVH problems, mostly. Things did not get 'great' until I installed the function first shiftright kit, as well as changed the shifter cable ends. They were trashed. Something to keep in mind. I have not looked, but I imagine the other end of the cable, under the car, need replacing as well. The shifter configurator / alignment tool is not a must have, but it's an almost must have. The removal of the console and installation of the items was a nice diy project. Be wise, and when you go to remove the console, do it gently, inspect where there will be contact and rub where the handbrake is going to scrape the **** out of it. Then tape it. I did not, and the console has some missing paint or whatever it is. Grr. It's my driver so whatever. Also, an excuse to pull it out again and paint it meridian metallic to match the body.
Curious to know the symptoms you were experiencing prior to the change? I�ve also heard that it�s not as simple as plug and play.. would like some more details if you could share?
Thanks!
Here's my
original post
in regarding the ballast. And yes, it's very simple; remove light, remove bracket, disconnect the two plug ends, remove the ballast with wires, reassemble.
I just use some armor all on it after I wash it. Seems to work. Sure there is something better to use as well. It's a cheap part that you can easily replace.
I used 'Back to Black' plastic restorer on mine. It looks great and has held up well so far, though honestly it has not been a long time or a lot of washes.
Cerakote makes a wipe on ceramic treatment that works pretty well, mask off plastic you don't want to get product on.
Amazon
Amazon
Only advice is, it legit has to have zero moisture on it and remove the panel is possible... I did not and will be buying new trim because there's a couple places that picked up moisture and streaked.
There are plenty of nice ones available. I went for the raceseng stratose in black with black alcantara and red stitching, with the shift pattern engraving. Install was a piece of cake, you need the NTA.
https://raceseng.com/stratosstratose-master
Premium feeling and gorgeous. If only the rest of my car looked so good😎
Replaced my rear view mirror that I had mangled when trying to troubleshoot a stealth installed V1 display problem. I replaced it with a plain manual day/night mirror from eBay (from Prussianmotors, I highly recommend them). I elected to remove the wires which were no longer used. That added some complexity to the job. I'm leaving the V1 hidden behind the back seats for now as it seems to work okay there. With the original setup there were addition sensors attached to the windshield, but I don't believe they're still connected. The Gen 2 V-1 can display on a cellphone so that's what I'll use going forward.
Thanks for the warning about Cerakote streaking. I read the reviews on Amazon -- seems like when it works, it is amazing, but if it doesn't work it is impossible to remove. I've been tempted to try this stuff for a while, but probably am not going to.
I would try Forever Black dye (
Amazon
Amazon
). It's a very thin dye that will cover the color back to black if it will stick to the Cerakote. The dye is very different from paint, which goes on thick, this just goes on super-thin and colors the surface. You can top it with 303 or anything after dying.
That stuff has been around for a while and it's a proven product, you shouldn't have any issues but you can run the risk of bleeding the dye when you add a protectant on it. It's not the end of the world I'm pretty sure you can get consistent results. The Cerakote streaking is caused by moisture and sometimes heat, only complaint is their pre-moistened pads are a little small so use a pad per surface. Example being the cowl would use an individual pad, the battery cover it's own pad and etc. It's an absolute pain to get off and if I did it again, I'd remove the windshield wiper and cowl to apply the product... it will come out perfect that way.
Unrelated to the cowl, do you guys use tire dressing? I don't like the plastic Tonka truck look so I clean my tires every time I wash and apply Scrubbing Bubbles to the tire once dry... it gives them the matte black sheen you'd get when the tires are new. I did find this that I'm going try this from Aero Cosmetics, the pilots on this forum might recognize it:
Amazon
Amazon
When I had the IMS Solution done I had them replace the transmission mount with oem�that was about 4K miles ago. The transmount was shredded. When I asked if the engine mounts were good still I was told �50/50�mostly because the trans mount was shredded, but the car doesn�t have many miles so it could go either way, but it doesn�t have any of the typical symptoms��
So I made it a non-priority�shoulda made it a priority based on how much of an improvement was t made. My friend that works at a dealer in ATL said he recommends to his customers replacing mounts every 20k miles since it�s a �relatively cheap fix with only an hour of labor�a good bit of the time the mounts needed to be replaced and nice we see the condition they�re in even if there were no symptoms.
I�m still scratching my head though that my sump sits lower with new mounts than it did with worn ones�but the tail pipes sit higher�
Nate, I have to agree with you. Mine has 57k and I just replaced my engine mounts for the first time 2 months ago with Rein mounts. Engine and shifting feels tighter. I didn't do my transmission mount on purpose, because I wanted to isolate the changes to see if there was actually a difference in feel for each individual replacement. Plan on doing the transmission mount in another month or two. But yes, I have two tailpipes that need to be adjusted as well.
For the cowl, I use Meguiars Ultimate Black.
It does a good job and lasts for a while.
It's easy to re-do and there's no danger of a permanent failure.
But I've been thinking about replacing my cowl with a carbon fiber one.
(Hoping Rennline will make one and it will be more affordable than ordering one from Germany)
https://shop.db-carbon-interieur.de/...ts/1321RS-0001
For tires, I only clean with soap and water.
1) Way back when(1980s? 1990s?) I used a tire dressing that flung off when I drove the car and messed up a very detailed cleaning.
Since then I've avoided using any dressing to avoid any mess.
This is probably not an issue 30-40 years later.
2) I don't like the shiny look.
3) I've always wondered what dressing soaking in does to the rubber.
Oh man that cowl is pretty and the price matches that too. The few customers I have like tire dressing so I just use a tire sponge to apply, can't stand spaying it on.
This is next on my list and I'm debating if I should do both cables and shifter or just the shifter. Did you do both or just the shifter? Let us know how you like it.
I used the FF Shift Right and read somewhere that it was wise to plan on replacing the shifter cable ends when doing the job. I ordered them up and I'm glad I had them in hand. They were toast. As far as the cable, I asked my Indy and he said avoid aftermarket cables unless you want a bunch of NVH. You might plan on tracking the car, so up to you. I drive mine daily so comfort matters.
I'm sure you know this already, but the cables are not a maintenance item. Do the shifter, or the shifter internals, upgrade the ends with new, and be sure to use an alignment tool. There's a few good YT vids that cover the upgrade. Mark the thread where your cables seat to make the alignment easy. That high end shifter looks pretty awesome. I wanted to stay stock shifter throw so the internals were a good compromise. I'm satisfied. For now.
. Priorities, priorities...
HTH
THE phone mount from Yaz installed today. 17mm ball. ESR Magsafe mount. Holds the phone very well. Location is awesome, right in the instrument sight line.
Also changed out the ballast resistors for the low speed fans(last weekend). Temps in traffic have been significantly reduced. No high speed fans this week. Here's old and new resistors. (same as a million previous pics)
I bought the parts for the cheap alternative, but when it came to putting it together, I decided it was a bit too kludgey for me. Before resistor change, the temp would get up to needle on the right side of the 0 in 180, and then the high speed fans would kick in. The highest temps it sees now are the needle on the left side of the 0 in 180. This car has the CSF radiators and a 160 thermostat. If I'm above 20mph, the needle is right on the 180 line. Since putting these in, I've had no high speed fans. It's a cool car!
'I bought both the shifter and cables as a kit when Numeric had it on sale back around Christmas. I only installed the shifter and was going to attempt the cables but was a bit overwhelmed with trying to get the OEM cables out. Worked on that rubber grommet for at least a half hour before calling it quits. I plan on hanging onto the Numeric cables and will look into having a reputable shop install them. Took her out for a little test run this afternoon and man does that shifter work nicely! Shifts are much more crisp and firm and I really like it!
I originally had Shift Right kit + Numeric cables. The Numeric cables add precision; they bolt solidly to the shift assembly and cable brackets at the transmission end, there is a solid, firm cable connection at each end, and the cables themselves are heftier than stock. But they also added too much gear noise for my tastes. I went with new stock cables and ends instead.
The cable plug/bung is the worst part of the job. I fought with getting it back in for almost two hrs before giving up and going home for the night. Thinking things through, I decided to bring some car wash soap with me the following day (Meguires thick yellow stuff�I had tried all kinds of lubricants before that� none of them worked). Make sure you enlarge the holes for the cables, as they�re much larger than stock. Put plenty of soap on the plug and push it back in from under the car. Good luck
Way before SOUL was even a thing, I did competition headers and X-Pipe on my 996 with a Tune. I felt like it lost torque pretty noticeably under 4000rpm. I switched to catless cross over pipes and found that it picked up that loving feeling over the X-Pipe in the lower RPMs. Did you notice a torque dip from the X?
Dave @ SOUL
that ocean Jade, me likey. I'm going to save money up to get my car painted that color. I don't care if it lowers the value of resale. I'm not selling it.
It's not just you. I had ordered crossover 200 cell cats with my headers and valved exhaust, but they were having production delays. I let the maker talk me into xpipe for the same price. I can definitely feel theres some torque missing down low. I'm told that softronic makes a tune that will smooth out the curve. But that's a 900$ experiment. Will do it, but for now I'm ok with the power as is, the sound is amazing, and over 4k it does make me happy.
I'm not sure any tune without a Dyno could guarantee results. Though, it's not like my car is unique, and softronic have been there done that
Here is a thread that rumbles through the issue and options. There are a number of other threads that cover similar ground.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...esistor-2.html
To add more commentary to my problem, I did not have an overheating problem. It's just the lower speed wasn't working, and the high speed fan noise, after 3+ years, was starting to bug me.
Good luck!
Post Blend door fix scarring…JB Weld in black vs Nashua silver. Sanding weld messy…dusty. At least see black if changing radio…see part numbers
I exposed the dash cutout after removing the head unit , cup holders , vents and brackets holding climate control. Note…the 996 is several pieces and I found it better to take out ad such. There are several tutorials which suggest the use of HVAC tape to replace failing foam. There has also been introduced a “plug set” to cover each hole in the flap. The plugs are appropriately sized and it is recommended to add sealant to them. They’re pretty well supported. They added technique to the jerry rig. I was excited to include in my repair. The use of them made it messy but I may hav3 used excess gasket seal. It made attaching th3 tape difficult but it was done.
A couple precautions…know how to move the blend doors or risk losing plugs into system. I’ll be lookin* for one for a while.I had to dismantle some duct work to look for it. Lot of time in an elective procedure. I would have them connected ,Ike tear off gaskets or washers with sticky back tape already in place(remember my cut plug man).
yea it was kinda my bad but they were there to be dropped. If I had chosen to not used would have been half the time and less car to put back together. But,..it’s fixed
Prep
Nausha tape with outline of “plugs” underneath
put this on the Done list and move on to next project…hopefully no ghost 👻rattle will show 😩
I have used this product from Detail king for years. One application brings the trim back to new appearance and the finish lasts for years.
https://store.detailking.com/car-trim-restorer-black
I just bought the same delete panel, not knowing I�d have to drill out/cut off the rivets holding the bumperette holders. Is that part possibly reversible with new hardware? Just worried about passing safety down the road�
Panel looks great though!!!
No paint at all actually. Home Depot special:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/AdirOffi...-1-B/307923344
I just wanted to see if liked the look (yes, yes I do). Plan is to do the aero kit install, sunroof delete, and repaint all at the same time either this winter or next. Filling in the bumperette holes is now on that list as well.
Their current prices look pretty good considering the material cost and DIY level of effort. Curious how their carbon vinyl would look with your spoiler.
From the pictures on their site, the vinyl looks to be 1x1 like my wing. They don't offer a custom paint option so the wrapped one might work best since Slate is dark.
@Soul Performance
I noticed a slight dip but not a lot.. I updated my build thread yesterday with dyno results and video.. I'd be more than happy to test the difference if you want to provide your crossovers vs M&M x pipe...
Power steering leak led to an unexpected engine out (middle PS line).
Since engine out, had Bryan at Bauerwerks (great shop!) do:
UAOS
Injectors
VarioCam Pads
New Pads, small chains, etc
oh boy. I knew I wanted to change these with 120k miles and -3/-6 cam deviations, but this was worse than I expected. I would plan to replace these on any used 996 at this point.
UAOS!
Bryan had already done the clutch, IMS, RMS, AOS when I bought the car in 2020.
Back in action
Let’s see if any ideas about how to unstick the coolant reservoir in my 996.2(important distinction **)
it’s been pretty smooth sailing doing this common replacement. Some straightforward vids and got all the way to
….slide coolant tank to right off the holding bracket above and twist bottom up and right while top down and left.
NOT QUITE FOR ME. it slipped backward and is stuck in the corner on the holding bracket. The engine is as low as I can take.
it had been suggested that I may have to drop the transmission done to get things level and get some clearance. Man…all the vids looked smooth sailing…it shouldn’t require anymore so I tried putting it back in and starting over. It takes brute strength and I’m just wandering if due to the 996.1 tank being smaller than 996.2 reservoir is there more to do like
a. Lower transmission
or
b. Remove left side intake plenum…
Any suggestions community?
Beginning the slide right…
Misses the track somehow and ends up too far rear ward ..stuck in left rear corner…need more
After more videos about the plenum, I decided to purchase it. Bought it from Pelican using my PCA discount, along with a serpentine belt for my 03 turbo �the dark knight�. I decided to spend the money because I found out with my turbo purchase I�m also getting like $6-7k worth of mods courtesy of the seller. Headers, exhaust, down pipes, intake, hre wheels. Can wait to go pick it up next week.
You're the reason why I was looking at the Cypher! I'm going to opt for the CF vinyl for now and probably have it painted when I finally get a cup front bumper... the list of things I want is almost endless.
I removed it, made sure it was spotlessly clean then used a heat gun on it! The heat brings the oils to the surface and it looks like new again! Just do it carefull y and move the heat gun back and forth and you will se it turning black again! After you do it saray some UV protectant on it and it should stay balck for years!
Today I took off the front bumper and cleaned out the radiators...well one of the radiators anyways. The left side radiator and condenser look pretty new.
But the right side was a completely different story.
All cleaned up after a lot of brushing and blowing out with the air compressor.
Replaced my cheap chyna knock off center caps that lasted about 6 months before looking like garbage with real Porsche ones. The over 2 year back order is finally over! The quality of these is amazing! Not cheap, all four was $266.
Got the engine and trans back in the car after doing, new injectors, UAOS, rear main seal, L&N solution IMS plain bearing, flywheel and clutch set-up, engine and trans mounts, water pump and thermostat are less than 1k miles. that HF lift works great with just the 2x4 under the trans, the trans bolts went right in with engine mounts.
I took mine for a long Memorial Day run.
I monitored performance with my Dragy (mounted using yaz’s hazard light mount) and found my 996 is not performing as well as it did last few times I had the Dragy inside.
But last time was in December, so I assume the hot and humid weather is affecting performance.
Got a chance to snap some photos too.
Got up early to crawl around under my car and replace the engine mounts with another set of OEM. Took about an hour.
It may be be my imagination, but it seems like it drove quieter and smoother, along with shifting better. The gap between the bumper cutouts and tailpipes closed by nearly 3/4”.
It was pretty nerve wracking and while the intent was to drain and replace my 6mt transmission oil, by the time I lifted it, and crawled under the car to see what was what, I was knackered. So, I reversed the procedure and put my tools away. Getting old sucks, and wrenching takes more work than you think, even easy stuff. I'm going to try again tomorrow. Or I might just call my Indy and add to an appointment. He's going to code my new key for me so I'll be there anyway...
once the car was in the air, I realized that my car was still pretty close to the ground. My cheaper jackstands, the ones on the front, don't go high enough, certainly nothing like the height of the good ESCO 3 tons that are supporting the rear.
I love my indy! Everytime I think I am going to try something on my own, I start the process and know very quickly that I am in over my head. I can put gas in the car, torque the wheels, check oil level and tire pressure. But so can a third grader.
I took mine for a fun drive this morning.
Then loaned my garage and tools a friend to put new upper and lower control arms on his mother’s Hyundai.
I helped when he ran into trouble.
We took my 996 to Autozone for a new ball joint for the lower control arm.
It was nice I got to take my 996 for 2 drives today.
I think I made a new Porsche fan.
Well, went to the Oxford Valley Mall (10mi north of Philly) for my first autox event last night in the Pete. They decided to cancel the event at 7:10 this morn because they forgot to get the insurance. This was the Philly scca group, what a bunch of clowns.
Yep. Getting a car correctly and safely onto jack stands is work. Doing it just to change the transaxle oil? Probably takes longer to get the car in the air than to do the work! I did a clutch on my Z4 on jack stands a couple of years ago and swore "never again." I have a lift now. What a great tool.
Man I had a floor jack break a castor on my pavers while swapping out some wheels on the Touareg. The damn thing rocked back and the handle slapped the back of my calf but I was well clear of the car... looked like Peter Griffen holding my leg and rolling on the floor. Good floor jacks are the way to go and even though I know I'm 100% safe under the car with the QuickJack system... I always feel like a "Final Destination" moment is about to happen.
Picked up this sweet E53 X5 on Saturday. As for the P. Finally got it out for a REAL drive. First time since fall I wasn�t going somewhere or running an errand. Wow did I miss it. I actually had it listed for sale over the winter but ended up selling something else instead. I�m glad I chose to keep it.
UNTIL last night when I came back to the forum and start reading again about rebuilds and engines going bang and bores being scored and everything else�.and surprised to see Mr. Raby has left the chat (@Zbomb what did you say?!
). Come on someone gimme the scoop on that
But all those worries go away when I�m driving it. Maybe I�m an optimist, or maybe I�m pretending I�m unaware of what could go wrong. Now I get to drive it to DMV to register the X5!
pics
I�m living my mid 2000s dream. I graduated high school in 2010. So these cars were my jam. All I need is a B5 S4 Avant in Nagaro Blue and an E46 M3 track weapon and my teenage fantasies will be fulfilled.
Side note: does my car look nose high?
Dirty car, clean X5. Both need a detail.
I miss driving my x5 yours looks menacing love it
but I didn’t love was the number of stupid issue breakdowns a sensor in the middle of the engine under the manifold $200 part $2000 repair
but really is the perfect size/ride
good luck enjoy
I had exactly the same thing happen on my M3. I was not a happy camper. To top it off, the part they installed was defective, so they ended up doing the job twice.
Sweet. I had an 06 Cayenne with the V8 in Silver, it was a very enjoyable drive. I got bored and switched it out for a 2008 335i 4 door which was also a beautiful car to drive. Zee Germans know what they're doing.
I'm not sure if everyone saw your question that was buried between the photos. The nose on the 996 does look too high. in this photo at least. It might be an optical illusion from the way the sun is reflecting along the fender line, or just how it is parked on an uneven surface. The nose doesn't look high in your other shot from the rear 3/4's view. The best way to determine might be to measure the distance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender front and rear.
.
Well, well.
I�ve owned my 2002 C2 for ten years. I�ve put on a grand total of 12,000 miles on the car. I have gone through at least five sets of tires, and have had yet another pair of Pirelli Zero whatevers mounted on the car today.
But today is a new day.
I installed new adjustable dog bones, then proudly posted pictures on this forum only to be told (er, strongly advised) that the dog bones weren�t going to rectify my ridiculous tire wear!
No. No. You need adjustable rear control arms for your toe-in issue that beats the snot out of your inside rear tire corners, camber is not the culprit here.
I followed the advice, installed the new control arm gizmos, did a driveway alignment with two 2x6s and a tape measure and drove it to the Porsche shop for the fine tuning. They called back at the end of the day and gave me the delightful news�.
All. Lined. Up.
New dog bones & rear control arms
thanks man! The tiguan I think looks cool lowered with a nice wheel and road tire setup, . The older touregs looked badass lifted with ATs. My wife�s daily is a Jeep Grand Cherokee L. It�s great and the front end looks mean, but the weeny highway tires kill me. It�s too new I don�t think anyone has come out with lifts yet for the standard suspension, but the higher end models that have air suspension can raise like 2-3� above stock height and it looks sweet. I would totally do a 2� lift with ATs on it and she would love it lol
Weather cleared up today in Chicagoland so I took the beast out for a drive. A little too much traffic but fun nevertheless.
Even figured out how to use my GoPro and upload it to vimeo. Still havent figured out how to work Yutube yet other than watching videos. Hope the soundbite works.
Sounds pretty good.
Edit: Sorry...New video coming shortly
Sounds really good! You need to find a longer open stretch of road because there were some rpms left on the table as well as some nice sounds
Finally got around to doing the brakes yesterday. Still had some pad left but it was right on the edge of tripping the wear sensors so it was good timing. Also that damn dust. Rear discs were still fine with minimal lip and see less wear so they stayed but got new Sebro front rotors. Trying out the Akebono pads as they seemed to be well regarded for everyday use with much less dust...time will tell. Less initial bite but smooth and I think rotors need to wear in more. Did some initial bedding in. 996 brake jobs are so easy. 3 hours for all 4 corners taking my sweet time, working in a driveway.
Brakes look good! I gave up on brake dust a long time ago. I just hose down the wheels every so often. One of these days I will figure out the ceramic coatings that make it easier to remove.
Yeah, traffic kept getting in the way. If the weather clears up today, I'll run a few stints on the on/off ramps to get thru a few more gears. Thanks for the comments.
The dust has been horrendous with OEM pads. Rear had some factory Brembo pads and front had Pagid. Rear dusting was pretty light but 2 drives and the front had a nice layer of brake dust. I did like the performance though! Will definitely update once I have driven some miles. I figured I want something with less dust for street and will get something more appropriate for the track where I won't care about dust.
I forgot to add it was 3 hours with 1 beer and a quick visit from a buddy to fix his front disc brakes on his road bike! I guess that's like 32 dealer hours at this point
GC996 - ceramic coating goes a long way. I did my wheels when I just got them and I'm able to remove about 85% of dust with the power washer. BTW, any tunnels in your area?
Makes me want to do some driving videos now. This is one from last summer:
You Tube
85% is much better than my 50%. I will have to try ceramic coating.
Your car sounds great! Its as flat as a pancake here in the midwest. No tunnels but alot of underpasses. Yep, more driving videos.
Another nice day in Chicagoland with second clip of the exhaust. Tough to get thru the gears on the street or highway. But best I could do was third gear. Exhaust is tame under 4k. From 5k on it likes to growl.
2002 996, OEM headers, FVD 200 cell cats, FVD sport mufflers, ipd comp plenum and GT3 TB.
Edit: Sorry...new video coming shortly..
Sounds awesome Flat 6 makes a marvelous roar.. I picked my son up from the airport today. he's a sophomore and his school did a trip to rural Panama to build a cafeteria and do some other things. He's not been in my car since I went with aftermarket exhaust. I have TopgearUK headers, 200 cell xpipe cats, and valved mufflers. I truly hope that topgear 'non valved' mufflers do not sound like the valved ones do when you hit the loud button and pedal. It's a loud loud wail. My son had big eyes. Thank goodness I can turn the volume down, it would be far too loud and I don't think I would tolerate it every drive. The quiet mode sounds amazing, much better than the factory system of course. I'll dust off the go pro one of these days. In the car my little db meter by scoche reads over 100db in loud mode with the windows CLOSED. 😎 Hooligans 4 life.
Damage, its not only cool stuff for a sophomore but also for a middle aged adult! Sounds like you have a great set-up. Just driving around town under 4k, the exhaust sounds good, low key, no drone. But man, when you get the revs up, it sounds awesome. The first few years of tracking my car I just ran the factory exhaust. As I got faster and moved up in the run groups, everyone else had an aftermarket exhaust. It got to the point that I couldn't hear my exhaust so I found myself looking at the tach to see where I was (which is not good). When I got the FVD exhaust, I could finally hear my car and more importantly, didn't have to look at the tach to know when to shift. A good exhaust that is low key when driving around town but makes plenty of great noise at high RPM is utopia to me. Enjoy your new exhaust! Yes, post some sounds!
Gc996 great sound and video but a word to the wise angle your cam away from your speed it can be used against you by the popo
no reason to give them another way to suck you dry
Started out replacing the water pump and thermostat. Ended up doing motor mounts and oil filler tube (which I broke during the job). I wont wait another 96k before doing mounts again!
Did the �Home Depot� intake mod using a wing nut test plug I didn�t think it would make a difference but wow I am surprised. I have a Tubi Style exhaust and it sounded good already but this just gave it a little bit more that makes it that much better sounding.
I am not sure if it�s in my head or not, but at first I noticed a lag or what felt like a flat spot in the power band at 3k or so, which seemed to go away after about 10 mins or so, so I assume that was just the ecu adjusting? Anyway, cool little mod that�s cheap that actually works!
Yeah baby! It's your variocam. Kicks in around 3k give or take. Enjoy! We will get you out on the track with your 996.2 sooner or later and you will forget all about your BMW! Nothing better...
Finally got around to cleaning the exhaust tips. The cruddy things were bugging me for months. First I gave them a serious wash, then soaked them in bug/tar remover to get all the goo globs off, and finally worked at them with some Mother's polish and an old headlight polishing wheel I had laying around. One of the fixing bolts snapped in half rather than loosen, but I was able to source a very acceptable replacement from the local Ace Hardware.
Before
After -- not perfect, but not bad considering
Nice job. The factory tips are a b**** to get clean for some reason. I worked hard on my 996.1 ovals and it was impossible to make them perfect. I'm not sure why it's so difficult to get them clean. Here's a recent related thread on the carriage bolt breaking (
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...t-and-nut.html
). The 996.1 tips don't have the carriage bolt and can't be separated from the rest of the exhaust tip.
Last weekend, I finally got around to installing my GMG Racing RSR roll bar. I purchased it unfinished and had it powder coated bright silver with a heavy clear coat for some extra shine.
Got around to putting in a new window regulator. So now the window has smooth action. In the process I snapped one of the bolts that fastens the regulator to the motor and cross threaded hole in the side airbag assembly. So now I have the next project. Luckily I already found the bolt in the diagrams and I should be able to re-tap the hole. Fun times!
I took mine for a long drive this morning.
Someone suggested taking pictures from lower than eye level, so I tried it.
I like how they came out.
Afterwards I fixed a long standing problem.
Ever since I changed the steering wheel, whenever the temps inside get high, the adhesive that holds the horn contact to the MOMO hub softens and moves making the horn honk when making tight turns requiring me to pull the fuse.
I used The Right Stuff to immobilize the contact.
I’m hopeful that will fix the issue.
Then I worked on my spare parts inventory.
I’m up to 310 spare Porsche 996 parts.
2/3 are brand new parts.
I’m stocking up on typical wear items. (water pumps, fuel injectors, fuel pumps, brakes, and electrical items)
Nice detective work. That would drive me crazy. Your car is looking real good too. Didn't you have stickers on your headlights when you first got the car? Personally, I think it is way better now. Guess I better get to work on mine.
Thanks!
I have two sets of headlights.
One with headlight covers and a second without.
I can change when I feel like it.
I�ve mainly had the headlight covers on for the last 4 years.
But recently I wanted a change and now I�m running the set without the headlight covers.
I took mine on an afternoon drive.
Picked up groceries and the inside got pretty toasty.
No horn honking issues, so I’m happy.
Looking forward to Tuesday now.
Swapping my uninstalled Agency Power headers for Luis’s barely used Soul headers.
I‘ll end up with Soul headers, Soul Sport Cats, and Fabspeed Maxflow mufflers.
New pads all the way around, current ones did 25 track days.
Swap x-pipe back after Lime Rock last week.
Load up trailer and get to see
@De Jeeper
tomorrow night at watkins.
Fixed the slack in my window regulator cable via the zip tie hack. It�s working great now. However, I made the mistake of re-connecting the battery and testing the window before plugging the airbag back in, so I now need to get the airbag code/light cleared. Next will be engine mounts!
I hung out with Luis today.
He provided a great lunch and great IPAs.
(Sorry, I forgot to take food pics
)
We installed the Agency Power headers on Luis’ 996 and the Soul headers on mine.
The biggest surprise of the day, we had no broken bolts on either 996!
After replacing the OEM engine mounts with RSS semi stiff mounts, (a bit of an ordeal to say the least) it was finally time to drive the car and see what the big difference is. The feel was a bit stiffer and more feedback, but not annoying or that radical at all. Happy I did it. Took the car to the PCA Concours meetup and the beach. Loving to be driving again!
These things are well made for sure!
Great day at Dana Point.
Bette Davis' 1935 beach house is in the background.
beach.
Finally got the UAOS done (fantastic upgrade) and new water pump (old one was going on 9yrs). 2 Final preventative items I needed to address this year, as last season I addressed all the other major items with the engine out while in the shop (tensioners, variocam pads, injectors etc).
Treated my car to a full detail. Used a polishing compound, then used Adams Graphene ceramic coating. The paint is looking pretty amazing for a black car with 20+ years of age. Always garaged, never in the elements thankfully.
Had the opportunity to help my buddy out on his BMW using Adam's products, his fianc� bought him a cleaning kit and I was very impressed with their stuff and more of the their detailing tools which are legit pro stuff. You car came out fantastic! Seeing owners still putting in time doing paint correction makes me happy.
Wow, that is truly good luck and the sign of a car that hasn't lived up here in the NorthEast! My California 996 didn't have header bolt issues either, thankfully. Thanks for choosing SOUL.
Dave@SOUL
Glad it worked out. However it's painful to hear "broken bolts". Last week I over torqued mine on the engine mount change-out when the wrench did not "click". The only "click" I did hear was the bolt breaking and extracting them from a deep location in the frame was a major deal. Took days of drilling and lots of bits at a local shop. Cha Ching. Using a 1/2" wrench was also overkill I guess. Will consider a 3/4" or 3/8" digital next time around.
Speaking of Chemical Guys, I really like their
streakless window cleaner.
Always had streaks and off gassing film on my windshield and tried so many expensive products. Also bought 2 waffle cloths they recommend to apply and clean and it seems to have done the trick.
Ive found their products to be good and use them almost exclusively on my car with the exception of the ceramic coating, I use 3M for that but would have no problem going back to CG if I couldn't find the 3M product. I detailed the paint correcting in my build thread if you're interested in their polishes.
I'm impressed with the Soul headers.
I already had the Soul Sport Cats, so when a lightly used(2500 mile) set of Soul headers came up I was quick to trade the unused Agency Power headers and some cash for the Soul headers.
I know they're low mileage because Luis hasn't had them but a few months.
I'm very happy with the quality of Soul products. (Sport Cats and headers)
I took my 996.2 on a lunchtime test drive.
The Soul headers really impressed my butt dyno.
The additional power feels good throughout the RPM range.
MUCH better than factory headers.
If they feel THAT good on the stock 3.6, they're definitely going to help with the 4.0L build coming up.
The slightly louder sound was nice too.
I have hearing loss, so I need it a bit louder in order to just hear it inside.
So when are y'all going to come out with some mufflers.(I currently have Fabspeed Maxflows, but could be convinced to replace them if you come out with some mufflers)
Thank you at
@TheChunkNorris
Another local Porsche guy made me aware of their product, after he did a nice paint correction on his guards red car. I�ll continue to stick with the brand!
I have some Chemical Guys products but I've never heard of Adam's. I'm not married to any one brand so maybe I'll give them a try sometime.
What I use to take care of my cars.
What I use to take care of myself.
so Tex and I drove to our mechanic and friend. He installed my Ipd plenum, swapped my soul headers with Tex squirrel agency power and he also checked my ac. The ac is as charged as possible, only way it will cool better a new ac compressor. It was blowing 59 and I�m good with that. I love driving with the window down ac off. Getting the plenum to adjust I went supersonic and passed by a police officer, he stopped me but I was lucky he only gave me a warning no ticket. I tell you if you have a Usaa membership put that sticker in your rear window it helps. I also had the chance to cook sausage, bacon wrap pork tenderloins and Nolan Ryan prime 34 steaks for us three, so we had lunch together, another awesome day at our friend and mechanic. One interesting thing that we found out the soul headers weight 8.6 lbs per side the agency power are 6.5. Now I�ll take my rear seats off and the 99 is going to be as fast as possible. Doing ribs and sausage today with potato salad and ranch style beans. I should stop eating all this food and stop drinking IPAs then the car will be faster when I loose some weight, hell no, I put a bigger engine instead.
This is why I�ll never have any groceries deliver to me. I like to pick my own meat. Gorgeous rack, as of lately you see some that are mostly fat.
Ipd plenum.
Some of the extra lunch meats.
Those agency headers are light and shinny
The soul headers with less than 2500 miles.
Bro I saw that you use P21S. I had a customer back in the day that had a 1975 Jaguar E-Type in British Racing Green on cashmere, he would provide the products and it was the pretty much the entire P21S catalogue in 1998. Looking back, the guy would pay me 300.00 a quarter to do the car and I didn't use any of my own equipment... easily had 6k in product and he'd let me drive it around the block. That dude was wild and his daughter drove a new Vette every other year, he didn't care what I used on those.
Vastly incomplete until you add Opti-Wax!
I'm kidding of course -- I think I've used everything on that table at one time or another, but an Opti-Wax top-off adds a carnuba look and (importantly) UV protection.
.
Nope. I saw the Opti-Seal (which I love), which is part of the reason I mentioned Optimum Spray Wax. The Opti-Seal only provides a bit of UV protection -- the Optimum Spray Wax provides much better UV protection and gives it a "Carnuba" look versus the pure "clear coat" look of Opt-Seal. Opti-Wax also lasts a long time even though you just spray it on and wipe it off. I use both Opti-Seal and Wax together.
17 Ounce Spray:
Amazon
Amazon
(it used to be white in a blue container, now it is pink in clear bottle)
Gallon:
Amazon
Amazon
(much cheaper to buy by the gallon once you determine you love it)
I took mine for a long drive today.
The new sound from the Soul headers and sport cats combined with the Fabspeed mufflers is glorious!
The performance from my 3.6 is great.
I’m going to miss driving my 996 while it’s at Flat6Innovations being turned into a Track Performer Stage 2 4.0L.
I hope to put as many miles as possible on it before it leaves later this month.
Why no love for the C4S Mike? My plan after I finish my suspension was to go with a set of your headers and cats, and would love to complete the package with some mufflers. Not a big fan of mixing products. Any plan to offer these for a 4S?
Jim
First drive in a while, detailing was super busy from March until the first half of June and now I hit a bit of a lull so I decided to get the Porsche out and run some errands. We also had bought a 2003 Cobra a month ago so I was getting that sorted. First things first, thought I solved my mouse problem but nope. Noticed some droppings in the cabin, not much, thought maybe I had just missed it when cleaning it before. Open the frunk and those little bastards had been in there again, so I cleaned all that up. Then I put the top up and I found two little nests in between the headliner and top of the vert top. Unclipped the headliner enough to give it a good cleaning. Finally able to get it out and go for a drive, its funny how much different driving this thing is next to the Mustang. Given they are about the same age the Porsche barely rattles and drives much better. Obviously two different driving experiences but driving them back to back makes you appreciate the quality of how the cars are built. Maybe I should just sell it so creatures don't keep making homes in it lol but we do have critter control coming out tomorrow to start cleaning the mice around the house, apparently there are bunch in the attic along with squirrels.
Yes, I used the link provided by a board member here. Considering what new ones cost, I think they look great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KGYSLJN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KGYSLJN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
rinseless washed the car and then finally got up the courage to flash my ECU (Vivid). Yes, I can feel the vroom, but probably the most amazing thing about it is the almost cable throttle like response. As a habitual declutcher / double declutcher, this was (slow response) one thing I hated about the e-gas. Problem Solved. Now when I double declutch the blip doesn't just sound good, it actually happens fast enough to be useful. And the vario changes they added do seem to have brought back some of the missing 3500rpm torque. It certainly feels strong to me. Of course the magic still happens at 4K but the change is less dramatic. Or so I think. The car was already fast enough for me
I highly recommend the Vivid folks, and their memorial day sale was too good to pass up. Why pay 350 more for the other flash options? I couldn't justify it.
Found out Joe Toth lives in my town and ordered a front splitter. Installed it last night. Will have to raise the car to get in and out of the parking garage now.
Looks nice!
I have his GT3 dive planes setting on a shelf waiting to go on my car after it comes back from F6I.
I cleaned out my car on most of my personal items.
The rest will need to be removed soon...my 996.2 is leaving TX soon headed for GA.
I received new 295/30R18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S today for my OZ rear wheels.
ASAP Tire (Tire Rack Mobile Installer) is coming tomorrow to install them and move the "older" 285/35R18 PS4S tires to my factory Carrera II wheels.
The "older" tires on my OZ wheels have hardly any wear.
They're still in the green on my tread gauge...barely.
The "oldest" tires on my Carrera IIs are down to almost the red on my tread gauge.
Then putting the Carrera IIs on my car for the trip to F6I.
I didn't want F6I to have worn tires with little tread while breaking in my engine.
295/30R18 vs 285/35R18
.9" shorter, 1.1" wider tread width
Wow, that’s expensive compared to LN Engineering.
Hmm, just check LN Engineering and they’ve gone up a $40 since I purchased my last case in January. Still cheaper than FCP Euro.
They seem to be growing, title sponsor at Lime Rock, big sponsorship and social media presence.
I�ve been using the free replacements for years, including on about 20 oil changes on my previous DD.
Drove my 99 today. Filled her up with the good Juice shell v power 93 and gave it a wash. Off course took it to my watering hole, there her bad *** sister carmine red with black interior GTS. Thanks god for Texas with my T mobile Tuesdays gasoline discount shell v power 93, $4.909 a gallon. Its hotter than hell here but gas is cheap compared to most places.
Not bad at all 4.909 a gallon
Sister is bad as????
Yeah tomorrow it�s even going to be hotter. I�m growing crunchy grass in my yard.
Finally installed my renndecals. Love it. Car is on stands overnight, wheels are off and in the morning I'll be plastidipping them flat black with glossifier topper. Curious how they turn out. The wheels are in rough shape, so if I like the results, perfect, if not, then I'll try something else.
i think you need to calculate shipping cost in the equation. Right now I get a 5 quart jug at $27 Walmart. I get the other at advance with the filter less than $40. So it does cost me less than $70 for and oil change. Both cars on Mobil one. Also I believe there are issues with shipping used motor oil.
It was actually about 2 1/2 weeks ago before I left for an out of town trip. I was tired of constantly washing bird guano off the car, so I got her a temporary garage�
😃
Yeah, I don't get how they would take back used oil. Hard parts I can understand. The equation for profit from new sales minus number actual returns must be quite good. It's quite amazing. Maybe the growth phase of the company covers the loss in the short term? Not for profit company?
Here's a place I found with inexpensive DT40 when looking for individual quarts of DI40 for my Cayenne:
https://gwatneyperformance.com/produ...-category=oils
. Seemed like a decent price.
That's a very good price. I paid around $12.30/qt with free shipping for the last case i bought directly from Driven during their Memorial Day sale..Bookmarked this site.
Intake parts came in! Ipd competition plenum, gt3 82mm throttle body and EVO motorsports Intake! Also the LN engineering motor are going in with a schnell headers, design tech catless xpipe and Sport mufflers! Also CFS radiators
Ln rebuilt motor
315s in the back!
I�ll put my blls on a chopping block Mobil one is a lot better cost performance benefit than this snake oil. By the way remember I�m a retired lubrication engineer not a used
car salesman or a lawyer. With most of the crowd here in this forum I should have invented a lot of stuff for a 996, sold it with the Porsche premium tax and i should already had enough to buy my own island. 🥃 cheers.
thanks for the confirmation. I'm pretty sure the mobil1 liquimoly motul insert name here oil is of sufficient quality, my uoa seems to support that. I use the recommended 5w40 motul excess 8100 V1 (don't check my spelling) that my Indy recommends. His shop is very respected, and he warranties his work for 3 years, all of it. Which is pretty freaking sweet. He would not be pushing oil that might lead to failures. My oil stays in the car for only 6 months and I don't track, yet. Cannot afford the wear and tear. Yet. Soon... Saving my money for a move to somewhere near VIR. that place is awesome. To track in Wilmington means a long drive. Some will say do autocross, but that doesn't appeal as much as track days with Chin our similar. Parking lot pylons are just not interesting to me, I'm not competitive at all that way. Driving on legendary circuits tho, yes please. I'm rambling... Exhausted again from another failure working under the car ... But, I got something done anyway.
Your car is, in the words of Peter Griffin, freakin' sweet. I might have mentioned before but I'll repeat it my car has headers 200 cell cats and valved exhaust by top gear UK and without a tune it just sounded awesome but I didn't really feel like it pulled any harder in fact it lost some in the lower RPM for sure. The tune by VR definitely definitely made a big difference especially throttle response.
I finished the Plasti dip and topped with glossifier added the black center caps and colored Porsche valve caps and mounted those Wheels. The Plasti dip is definitely a dust magnet I'm not sure if that will be good enough for me or not but for now it was something fun to do and it looks great with the Carrera backdate decal. I think dark wheels on light cars seem to work pretty good. The failure was underneath the car I removed the rearmost plastic covers and got all the stuff ready to do manual transmission oil drain and fill. I didn't even get the fill bolt undone, it's it's retardedly torqued on there and I can't get at it with my impact, so I guess I have to admit defeat and take it to my indie. Which is fine he's going to do an alignment for me and I'll finally get my new key programmed he's got the codes and I guess I'll get my oil changed while I'm in there. Next year without a doubt I'm buying those easy lift 5500 things. I've also got new rear drop links and a adjustable rear sway bar by eibach so I tested the fittings for getting them undone but I got stuck right there too I couldn't get a socket on the bolt attaching the top of the drop link to the suspension it's inside a cup like thing at the bottom of the strut. I guess I could have tried a little harder but I was tired and I still need some energy to put the last two wheels on the car and take it down off the jack stands. Jack stands are pain in the *** and too nerve-racking for this old man. For now I'll pay my indie for all changes and whatnot and like I said maybe next year... I'm going to go now and finish it off get the two wheels on and get it on the ground after this break then take my son for a ride he's only been out in it once with e new exhaust and that was from the airport to here not much of a drive.
Damage, great news is that the track will be there when your car is ready. Yep, to your point, it will cost you a few bucks for tires, brakes, oil changes, brake fluid changes and preventative service and parts. But it will be worth it to get out on the track to appreciate what a well sorted 996 can do.
Have you driven the car at the limits of its traction? I'm talking all four tires howling. If so have you done that for more than 1 or 2 turns? Because before you commit big time to track time you really should. Whipping a car through repeated high lateral G's is not everyone's cuppa. I have seen very enthusiastic drivers pull over to the side of the road, open the door, and vomit, due to motion sickness. Autocross can serve as a way to cross that possibility off your list.
Drove it to pick up vital supplies.
When I was loading the frunk, I was rudely reminded that I forgot to replace the hood struts last weekend when I was working on the car. They are now replaced.
Fortunately, we don't have to guess.
https://www.usps.com/ship/shipping-restrictions.htm
Oil is not listed, but similar potentially flammable items are: Glue, Hand Sanitizer, Paint; which provide guidelines.
I took mine for 1 last drive.
It was fun and sad at the same time.
It’s about to head to GA and I‘ll be without it for months.
But when it gets back...ya better watch out!
Sent these pics to a local wheel repair (that came highly recommended)to get this gotcha ding in the edge of my rim straightened out. I'll post the transformation if it's worth it.
Not horrible from 100 feet away.
Ouch, skimmed an island while being blinded by the sun making a left turn.
It�s really hard to be without your car. It drove me crazy. But, the end result is well worth it! And I only have the 3.8 stage 1. Good things come to those who wait�
No photos to share of the fix; but after getting annoyed by the 'double beep when locking' issue, and having checked that the door open/closed position microswitch always showed open whether the door was open or closed, I bought a replacement latch and replaced the door latch.
Fixed the problem, but then I opened the old latch up, only to find that instead of the microswitch failing; it was a broken solder joint. So I could have just re-soldered and that would have fixed it, but eh.... no way to have known that before.
Still, if anyone has the problem, pull the latch and check before buying a new one.
@SoCal911t
I like that you went from smoked back to the OG orange, I'm rolling that way as well. Backdate > modernize. To each his own of course. That's the beauty of these cars, or any car really. Only major anoraks will even notice the difference.
Update:
Onsite Wheels
did a great and fast job repairing my bent rim (shown above in previous post), They got the wheel and tire off, heated the rim, bent it back and touched the whole thing up. Also did curb rash. Back on in an hour and 45! $140.
VERY happy with it. [phone removed]. Garden Grove, California.
Who's a bad girl? Savannah, that's who. The $75 experiment in plastidipping is confirming that black wheels look great on the neutral tint 'color' that is meridian metallic. That
rug
decal really ties the room together.
They actually were clear, not smoked. I would have removed anything 'smoked' the first day.
I switched to orange because I like how they look, not because I'm some kind of purist. Having said that, every mod I've done to the car is 100% reversible. When the DMV decides I'm too old to drive and I have to sell, all of the original parts will go with it. Storing all the stuff is starting to become an issue though.
That's pretty decent. I like it. I have a baby version flat spot that you have to look for but it drives me crazy knowing that it's there. Glad to see It get done and very reasonable too. Did they spin it for you so you could see the results?
I had to head back to work, so no. I'm sure we could have done that, bit it seemed ok. He was very conscientious and was known for doing onsite Bentleys, Ferraris, etc. all over LA, was "the" guy.
Good to know you had it sorted. If ever you have plans to upgrade your wheels, We can hook you up with the hottest wheels and the best fitment for your 996.
Who hoo! Passed the emission test! Best part was when I pulled up the car in the lane next to me was a 98 Carrera, what are the odds? Almost as good as a unicorn riding a comet?
Just replaced these yesterday, the last bits of the suspension that were original to the car.
The overall effect (of replacing all the suspension bits) has been to transform the ride of the car tremendously. The car now feels much closer to a new car instead of a 20yr old flappy/loose car. And a little bit of joy in saving ~$2k by doing the work myself (well, OK, I did buy $75 worth of end wrenches).
Just returned from 2 weeks vacation in Tulum Mexico and had a pleasant surprise, had ordered the L&N solution IMS bearing kit when it was 20% off the last holiday end of May and was told then it was possible all the pieces needed would not be completed till August or later. Thank you L&N for quicker service and delivery.
I can�t believe the difference replacing the amp on my 99 996 made. It�s the old �hifi� OEM system with a cheap Kenwood head unit. Todays multichannel amps ($$$😱
really exploit the OEM speakers to great effect. Could not afford to do head unit and backup camera just yet, so I�ll enjoy phase one.
Audiolab did the job in Laguna Hills Ca
German amp. Not cheap but makes the system sing
Old cabrio OEM amp
Wiring was over my head. More than I thought.
Like any rubber, they can deteriorate and harden then crack. I think a lot depends on climate. My car is a southern car, and it seems ok. I did make a habit of caring for it and other plastics of course. I use 'Nextzett Gummi Pflege Stift Rubber Care Stick'.
My first 996�s bellows was fine even after 20 years. When I bought this one the bellows had several cracks along the creases. So when open it looked like crap and I have to assume it allowed more dust and dirt into the engine bay.
I did mine a few months ago too. I looked for a pic, but unfortunately could not find one. Mine was quite bad and had ripped in the "valleys" so it looked terrible when the spoiler was up. It is very common that they need replacing. Like Damage said I am guessing it does vary based on locale and probably how often your spoiler comes up.
The new wing looks great. You just need to get the front bumper installed now!
I knew there had to be a light in the engine bay. I will have to investigate why mine doesn't work.
I've noticed more and more people using compact electric ratchets and I think I'll have to get one now. How durable has your Milwaukee been? I'm a Makita person but not especially averse to trying new tools.
When I was at the body shop this my daily driver for 2 years ( I left after that). At the end of those 2 year it was still going pretty strong although it probably could have used a good disassembly and regrease. It was great and took a beating, and this was in a body shop so add in lots of dust, debris and long hours of operation in warm and hot weather.
Not exactly today, but bought it. It�s a 2001 Carrera 4. Have since hardwired an Escort radar detector, changed the oil, filters and hood struts, and scheduled an appointment for IMS and AOS
Clutch was replaced by Porsche dealer at 57k a few years back, currently at 69k. Still deciding what to do about the wheels as I�m not 100% sold on them.
Congrats on the car. It looks great. Wheels look very good on the car why change? Also, best damn color ever! Welcome to the club! Sounds like you are doing the right things with ims and aos. Go with uaos track version regardless of if you will track the car or not. Also water pump...
While you are in there, drop sump, see what you got floating around in there, maybe scope bore to be sure. If all good, spend like he'll on the car and change your oil 2x a year and enjoy the he'll out of it.
I've had the 3/8 ratchet the longest and it's been great with really good battery life. I used to be a skeptic but there's no going back to air for me.
get on slick deals and buy all the milwaukee, I've transitioned everything but my lawnmower at this point (which is still electric)
been super happy with all the milwaukee stuff
I’m a long time airtool guy.
But I recently decided to switch from Craftsman battery drills, 1/4 impact, circular saw, reciprocating saw to Milwaukee M18.
(I‘ll give the old Craftsman tools to my son)
I was so impressed that I decided to get a 3/8 M12 ratchet.
It is much easier to use than my Snap-on air ratchet with the swivel.
I‘ll likely pick up an M18 1/2 impact next.
That will still be useful more than 75’ from my garage.
What’s surprising is how many different M18 & M12 tools Milwaukee makes!
I have been converted as well, for mechanics tools - they seem to have the stuff I need and it works well. I run their version of the dremel and the right angle drill and their little tire inflator at the track, really good stuff.
The ratchet and 3/8 stubby impact sucked me in 😀
@
SoCal911t
I love your Rennbow towel. I looked for my engine lid light socket, and I think it is missing, all there is there is the wiring and a 'socket'. So I think I need to order yet another part. I've spent sooo much on this car since purchase in Feb. I mean, to me, a lot of money. More than 1/2 purchase price. To PCar owners and collectors, chump change I'm sure. And I'm nowhere near finished....I need to learn to pace myself.
Replaced both frunk struts
Put a non-smoker cap on the cigarette plug (missing when I bought the car)
Swapped the driver�s side mirror (I burned the paint when trying to remove old clear bra)
Simple but satisfying
...Are actually really good. I went for a night drive for the first time in my 996, 1st time since the upgrade and I'm so pleased with the headlights output and aim. I had been worried that upgrading the reflectors would then require aiming the lights but turns out that step is not needed. The lights are bright 🌞🌞 🌞🌞🌞. Here's a link to the product. I chose the basic 4300k lights, they are very natural, not white or blue.
https://retrofitlab.com/collections/...xenon-retrofit
Definitively well with the price. I purchased new h7 hibeams as well, from a different source.
If you do upgrade a reflector, from any seller, when you unscrew the 2 screws that have rubber spacers, count the rotations and match when installing. Don't torque the screws in or you will struggle to aim.
^I wish I had followed the number of turns advice. My aim on one is way off. I�ll just have to fiddle with it until it�s proper. The lights work great, though!!
Cleaned up the seat belt buckle receptacles. Used a sample sheet of red vinyl wrap. The red plastic was faded to the pink color of Bazooka Joe bubble gum. Sanded a little and took an Exacto to trim. I used a hook nose pick to keep the piece in place. 20 minutes total. Spent 2 years thinking of a durable enough DIY solution. So there’s that.
Sample red wrap and an Exacto
let us know how long it lasts! Definitely cheaper than buying new. I wrapped mine in some sweet German flag stitched leather from jf customs.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23457737392...mis&media=COPY
Dropped the 996 off for some maintenance and parked it next to my dream car.
And I�m not talking about the
Karmann Ghia
( although this is a really nice example)
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/f275bf37_900d_4680_978a_642886fd0a56_25bf095c53d3ff6124944c7b76790753bef69a48.jpeg
It's nice to be able to quickly swap rear decks.
If you purchase a fan and latch for each deck it makes it even easier.,.
4 bolts and an electrical connector and you're done.
...then people will think your have multiple Porsches.
All OEM and originally specced with the car. Glad someone ticked the right box's when they ordered this in '99!
I agree! Just fancied a change
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post18017323
Just picked it up from the liquid wrap place, my arctic silver paint was in decent condition but starting to have some issues after 22 years, so it seemed like the perfect time to live a little. Voodoo blue with acid green calipers, in a few years I'll probably peel it off and switch to something else, but in the meantime it should take the worst of the rock chips or whatever else gets thrown at it. It wouldn't stand up to a concours inspection, but for a daily driver I think it came out great. I'm also going for the "
touring
" look, but only because a PO added the bumper/skirts and I don't want to buy the taco lol.
I like it and I actually have the acid green paint and brembo stickers sitting in my parts pile to do my calipers... great minds
If I were to make a suggestion, more low would make it look more betterer.
Its a dance between aesthetics and ground clearance, I'm considering doing the suspension this winter so will have to decide soon, maybe some positive rake.
The shop I went with does $1500 for matte and $2500 for high gloss, then has some options for additional cut/polish. I went for the high end since it was the first time, was out the door for about $4k.
Finished painting the interior bits. All that's left is getting Frank at Exclusive Option to wrap some bits in leather, and the project is done (for the next couple years, at least).
I finished a job I started about 10 days ago. The alternator went out on me a couple weeks ago so while at it I also did the water pump, thermostat (LN low temp), mass airflow sensor, and put on a new serpentine belt. It was my first time for all of that and took me a total of about 12 hours. A couple hours of that was running back and forth to the parts store for tools. Another couple of hours was re-watching youtube videos. Next time I could probably do it all in half the time or less.
Interestingly, the gasket that came with the thermostat for the housing was no where near correct. I said f it and re-used the gasket that was on it. Knock on wood, I haven't seen it leak a drop. Keeping an eye on it.
Yes, mine does too.
When working out in the yard stuff (trash bags, small branch cutters, drinks) gets placed on my wing, but usually on top of a terry cloth towel.
@NYPOWR4
that is sweeeeeeet. I freaking hate my rusty Porsche calipers. In fact, I'm tempted to overlook some other much needed and more practical upgrades (water pump and cooling system, fuel injectors, heads, bumper and front end respray, etc etc) just to get rid of those damn ugly rotors. Ugh. Yours look amazing.
damage I did all that before the brakes very satisfying and a much needed form and function for the brake dept
just waiting on my UIDS so I can do the Solution and clutch in one shot and hopefully I’m done
Replaced the engine mounts. They weren't too bad, but it was my first real project and I needed an easy one for a little bit of confidence. It's been about 30 years since I "needed" to wrench a car. Now it's nice to want to wrench on something, especially when that something is a 911.
Replaced that stripped brake fluid reservoir cap and went for a drive, a long one. Very relaxing listened to some podcasts. When I got closer to home I tried to stay off the brakes, then parked up. Ran in the house and grabbed my infrared pointer thermometer thing, and checked all the 4 wheels temps, using the disc hat as the target. They were all very close, about 107f. So either my wheel bearings are still good, or I'm not shooting the right spot? If the wheel bearing were shot, it should heat up the whole area right? I was suspecting bearing issues because there is a lot of road noise, whirring from the rear. Starting to hear some thunks as well.
I'm trying to save money for engine maintenance before doing the suspension. What good are new coilovers etc if the heart and lungs are decrepit. It needs head work, timing chain guides, my dme shows bank 2 in the high 5s. And lots of 'while you're in there.
Damage, out of curiosity, what tires are you running? Some tires make a boatload of noise.
Regarding refreshing your parts, take your time, do what you need to do to make sure the engine is safe and running in top form first. Then worry about the other items next. If you plan on being a long term owner, you have all the time in the world.
Yuck. Really sorry to see this. I don't know if our cars are too low for people to see where they are when they move about. 2 times I've come out to find a dented license plate. Both times from parallel parking. So, no more parallel parking for me unless it's the front end spot. I hope the repair goes well.
They are 2016 stamped pilot sport 3 A/S, 17X7 17X9. I could try new ones I suppose. I think the engine is safe, but at 100k miles I'm m planning on a top end refresh at least. But, itl would be real nice to get my suspension into the 21st century. The stock bilsteins b4 are actually all new dampers, so I can sell them. They don't inspire a ton of confidence at speed on the highway over bumps, the damping is just not as good as you get with modern coilovers. I'm not going to just throw coilovers on, if the rest of the suspension needs a refresh. Steering feels a bit vague, so that's due. It's only money. If only I be didn't have other responsibilities💰🙄
Started early in the morning. Washed both the coupe and the turbo. Drove the turbo to take my son to work and to get my wife some taco cabana tacos for her breakfast. I always park my cars in places where I can get protection on one side from door dings and whatever. Then took the 99 to performance shop one year anniversary open house. Yes I went supersonic on both cars 1 cuatro zero in the turbo. I got compliments on the sound of the 99 and they had a professional photographer there and she was taking all kinds of pictures of my car. As always had a blast on Porsche Saturday.
My caffeine fluid, makers 46 is pretty good. Coke Zero for the caffeine part.
I sweat my as? Off washing both cars started like at 5 am finished about 10 am.
Elijah Craig and makers 46 both great bourbon s and both 94 proof.
I always park my cars far away , I get the exercise and I feel like I get protection against door dings. Getting the tacos for the wife.
$100k 95 993 car is in pretty great shape. At performance shops open house.
Did a cleaning (vacuum, spray, vacuum again) of my radiators from the outside and installed the high speed relay fan hack with a manual switch.
the hack works great, my car now sits at the middle of the 8 in 180F while driving and even in traffic at over 100F i didnt see over 200F on my engine temp guage, my oil pressure at idle never dropped below 1.2 bar.
Great useful mod!
It's funny you mention the car being low, because the the car that hit me was a new XC60 and the guy said he was surprised his back up camera/collision monitor didn't catch my car, although it was very problematic that he was relying on that. This is the second time I have been hit by someone who had no business being in reverse. I was waiting about a car length and a half behind this driver to get into the gate for our parking garage when all of a sudden I see white lights flash on and this guy just pegged the gas and came flying back and hit me and nearly hit a parked car too. I have no idea what this guy's plan was, but thankfully this accident has actually been a really smooth process. He immediately felt really bad, apologized and admitted fault. Within an hour his insurance company called me saying he admitted fault and letting me know who their recommended body shops are in the area. Certainly a lot smoother than my first accident years ago, which was 2 weeks after I turned 16 and 0% my fault. The couple were uninsured North Idaho neo-***** and the wife clearly had a meth problem and the 6'6" 400LB+ husband trying to blame me and physically fight me until the cops came and shut it down.
I got the name of the Geico improved shops and the Porsche dealer recommended shop. Going to do my research tonight and hopefully make some calls in the morning.
My paint all around was in very good shape for the age, but the front definitely had some stone chips and could have been resprayed, but I had no intention too given it is my daily in SE LA. It looks like hopefully all the damage is localized to the bumper which is a miracle. the thing was a half inch off in height from completely taking out my headlight. I can only imagine how it would have been trying to explain to insurance that my headlight was only made for 9 months, is NLA, and not the same a Boxster despite looking very close.
You know that we don't need to see pictures of your dirty dishes, right?
"Over the line! Donnie, you were over the line, that's a foul, next frame... Am I the only one that gives a &#!^ about the rules!"
"Over the line! Donnie, you were over the line, that's a foul, next frame... Am I the only one that gives a &#!^ about the rules!"
I�m pretty sure it was Johnny (as in John Rambo) that Col. Trautman was addressing in that quote� Donnie was actually home singing cute songs with Marie while Johnny was fighting in the jungles of �Nam�
Thanks! I'm quite happy, but I'll be even more happy once it's totally done! However, since the car is now going into hibernation until we get a house, I'll probably have to work on some other projects
-Matt
Finally dialed in the suspension with 3 trips to tech shop but I’ve finally hit gold
the Ohlins dialed in to 17F / 14R this has given me very good street control and the ride height is just perfect
It's been a busy few days. In the past 48 hours I:
Replaced the left door window latch (to fix a window drop issue), thanks to
this EXCELLENT writeup
by Rennlister
@sweet victory
Switched out the center ashtray for the "non-smoker's" tray (
Genuine Porsche, via eBay
)
Traded out the obsolete CD holder for a much-more-useful
center console upper cubby
from Suncoast
Pulled the stereo to ship to
Becker
for Bluetooth retrofit
"Installed"
this cup holder
in the center armrest
Had the special "Colorado Edition" windshield replaced (massive crack)
Had new rear tires delivered to be installed before track day
Ordered coil packs and spark plugs for the next project
More projects planned in the coming weeks. Focused on getting everything fully functional and addressing a little deferred maintenance from the previous owner. The plan this year is to just get everything fully operational. Planning a full interior update for next year, to be documented in a future thread.
Much more useful
No more massive crack in line of vision. (At least for now.)
Definitely more useful than CDs. Haven't owned any in over a decade.
Hey folks - new member here. So today (well, yesterday actually) I gave mine a makeover. Painted brake calipers and a Dark Gray Satin wrap. What do you think? I'll be adding the wide spaced P-O-R-S-C-H-E lettering to the rear shortly.
Welcome, well done. Who did the wrap? How expensive was it? The red calipers look great. If you like the contrast maybe you can do the porsche in red , my car has it on the side. Your car looks great.
This side scripts look cool to me.
That�s my 99. It was like that when I bought it. I�m currently concentrating on the turbo, but when I get done with the turbo, I may repaint or wrap this one.
I’m a better exterminator then a mechanic, but I appreciate this forum and hope this. Rodent control begins with inspecting your garage for openings. If you can see daylight with the door closed seal the opening. 1/4 inch is all it takes. Make sure your garage door seals are intact. Some seals are made with stainless steel shards on the inside to deter their chewing to get in. Holes in the wall? Gaps on the sill plate? More permanent the patch, the longer it will hold up. Use spring traps, works right away. Bait some with peanut butter, soft sugar coated chewy candy works well. If they are nesting, tying a piece of fluffy yarn will attract as well. Bait stations take days, best for monitoring activity. Place every 8ft or so along the walls. Mice are wall huggers. Check your traps daily and reuse them. Once they have been used they are scented and will give better results.
Thanks for the tips. We've had mice and squirrel problems this year but not so much in the past and pest control has been out to set traps all along the house and in the attic. Haven't caught anything yet but the squirrels stopped chewing on the house at least. There is a bait trap right on the other side of the wall where the Porsche lives. Earlier in this thread I actually had posted a pic of one I caught in a bucket in the frunk. Then there was another which must have come out when I moved the car and he got himself run over. That was a few months ago but I noticed some fresh droppings today but there hadn't been any sign of activity for a few months after I got those two out. I am guessing a new resident moved in at some point. Its been very frustrating, the mice **** is annoying but easy enough to vac up but the **** smells and I have to keep extracting and bombing the interior.
Mice usually stay within 10 ft of their nesting site, think up and down an all around. If you got activity in the car, I would place snap traps on the floor mats, by the cabin filter and in the engine compartment and check daily. Look for openings in your eaves as well, they are good climbers and will sandwich themselves between the siding and gutters to go vertices and even in the hollow end blocks on siding.
Not mine, hopefully obviously, but thought I"d give a few people a jolt
. Here is the story -
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...low-buck-tech/
Only in its wildest dreams apparently
Replaced the emergency flasher relay to solve an inconsistent (starts normal but then speeds up/slows down) turn signal issue.
It was only happening on the left side, which had an aftermarket LED indicator. I replaced that with OEM but the problem persisted. When I put the emergency flashers on, both sides would work in union at the right timing. All the bulbs were good so I thought the relay was the next, best target. Ordered it and the following day the right turn signal started to get inconsistent too, so I knew it was the relay. Came today, I popped it in and boom - fixed.
For the brake light switch, I picked the car up about two months ago, out of state after having a PPI. When I drove it for the first time after a bit the PSM and ABS lights came up in the dash. The dealership (a Lexus dealership) had just replaced the battery and I figured it was throwing old codes. The codes cleared and stayed clear after a restart (they were taking it to the garage to throw a scanner on it when the codes cleared) so I figured it was due to the battery replacement and looked forward to the 4 hour drive home in my new 911. Then after a few weeks the lights came back. Several times.
A quick Google and turns out the brake light switch can wear out over time and it's a ~$25 part which is easy to DIY, so that's what I did.
Quick note for anyone doing this - it's easy to pull the switch out, but I found it nearly impossible to reassemble if the switch is plugged into the wiring harness first. Mark the "T" side of the switch so you know to align that with the larger yellow tab on the plug, and insert the switch into the metal bracket first. Use a pair of small channel lock pliers to rotate it and then plug in the wiring harness.
I looked at the left tail pipe covered in dry coolant and contemplated my level of frustration that I will encounter to remove and replace the existing tank.
Got the Porsche tank and cap from dealer. Ordered a coup!e of engine mounts as part the while I am in there.
Only gonna do it I'd next month. Heading to the cottage for a coup!e weeks. Will post pics of my bloody knuckles.
Replaced rear swaybar endlinks. For the record, MOOGs with the greasable fittings won�t work, wrong thread pitch despite Rock auto saying they would fit.
Ended up with Meyle from FCP Euro. Will be doing the fronts in the morning
I received my service cover.
I’d been wanting one for a while and ordered one from AutoAtlanta.
It took 19 days to arrive.
That’s not bad for a special order item.
It fits well and only takes 1 person to install.
It fits all 996 and 997.
I assume so.
It appears to be made out of the same material as a 1980’s car bra.
I’m pretty certain I had a Colgan car bra on either my 1985 Chrysler Laser or my 1987 VW Scirocco 16V, or both.
Painted my calipers today. They were red when I got it, but it's not an S, so I need to figure out which previous owner painted them. Either a guy in his 30's or a woman in her 70's... I kept them red because, why not?
Took me forever to clean, prep and mask everything but I think they came out looking nice.
Going to dip my wheels tomorrow, because I am done for the day. I need a beer and a shower.
Went to the garagisti here in Houston today for jalape�o cheese sausage kolaches and biers. Met a few new people. Car ran great, then when I turned the ac on I got a check engine light. Anyway went to advance auto and had them diagnosed it, cylinder 3 misfire. Anyway I bought the sunshade, I only paid $6 for it because I had a couple $5 rewards from advanced. I feel like an idiot because about a month ago I paid $35 for a cover king shade for the turbo from pelican , in my opinion the advance one is better. Went for a few beers at my local watering hole and then to pick up my son from work at outback and then late lunch. Awesome we get 50 percent off because he works there.
A friends spider and the silver surfer. I�m still amazed as how much fun Is to drive the 99.
14&15 gts, both pdk.
The parking lot was full.
04 C4s. Unfortunately is a trip. Ims blew up engine he got a new engine replaced by porsche under warranty,
I like that spoiler.
Real good fit for that sunshade. In my opinion better than the cover king that I bought from pelican at less than 50 percent of the cost.
Had two advance $5 rewards so the cover was only $6, they also diagnosed the check engine and cleared the code for me.
Had lunch with my son at Outback after he got out of work. Since he works there we get 50 percent off.
170 mile drive up the freeway in the eve then nice backroads drive on some *fun* roads to go get him then drive back. Twisty roads made him puke (outside the car) but he's fine. About 450 miles there and back
after cleaning my rads and installing the manual fan switch the car never got hot (190-210F) despite 80-102F outside. Amazing gas mileage of 26.5mpg on the boring straight highway bits.
996 just rolled over 118k and it's running perfect!
I decided today at 3 pm was the perfect time to remove the front bumper, replace the inner grille and clean the rads. Oof that was not a good idea. On the plus side, I was only left with one extra screw and haven't died yet of heat stroke.
After I did a cerakote headlight treatment, went for a drive, a nice long one😎
Here's some pics I took today, same car same camera. The sun really shows the red tint undertones in meridian metallic, which in the shade looks almost silver or platinum.
Red undertones in direct sun
Another, full sun
In the shade, clouds crossed the sun
Another in cloudy lighting
...or maybe it's just me. Haha
I too decided to stsrt working in my car around 3pm. Did an intensive track prep inspection. I do this about every 6 hpde days. I checked the pads, rotor thickness, pushed 60 sec of clean fluid through both sides of each caliper, cleaned the wheels and rotors of rubber chunks and did a general inspection. I did find the metal lip on the bottom if the rear bumper pulled free. Not sure what got hooked to cause the rivits to pull though, maybe it was just the wind from me driving so fast
. It just needs a good wash and its ready for Pitt Race next weekend.
I did plugs and coil packs. Boy! A couple of these are fiddly! Watched the FCP Euro video on the subject, which was brilliant.
I was able to do the left side without removing any exhaust bits at all. The coil pack on the rearmost right side was a PITA because there's so little clearance to get my paws in there. I ended up pulling the right exhaust manifold and after a lot of fiddling, thinking, trying nearly every long, narrow set of pliers on hand, I heard the satisfying "click" of the harness locking into the coil and satisfaction was mine!! Bolted it all back together and headed to the shower. Will chase with a much deserved whiskey.
Rear tires tomorrow.
Not a bad workspace
Almost there.
Remembering where all the screws go and which screws go where is the hardest part of that job by far!!
I never see anybody mention that in any of the videos. I got them all back on correctly, but it was difficult, and I was pretty organized in how I took them off.
I have about a dozen of these magnetic trays strategically placed around the garage.
There's always one nearby.
When I pull my bumper, two small ones go on each side of the car.
One large one goes underneath the bumper at the front and one goes in the frunk.
Screws and plastic plugs go into the nearest magnetic tray.
When I do any work in back under the decklid, there is always at least 1 magnetic tray nearby. with some "snack bags" and a sharpie.
Bolts go into a baggie and get labeled, unless it's a quick 30 minute job.
When I sleep at night, all memories of where I removed bolts from are erased never to be recalled again.
I also keep lug nuts in my magnetic trays attached to my QuickJack.
Failed the setting the mirror memory in reverse trick which led me to discovering no back up lights either
Also not happy with the gnarly console
With some help from some fellow rennlisters, started the project
Making good progress
Made some cash, fyi, their are two short connectors you have to look for when lifting out the console. Only lift a few inches or you will rip them out.
Replaced the switch,
Refinished the console, put some stick on furniture pads behind the seatbelts. When you get the parking brake cover off, I would wrap the handle that�s now visible with tape and cloth. Console cut the leather below when moving it around. Was able to repair it but could of prevented it.
Best of all lights and tilt mirror on backing up, thanks for helping, great site!
That console refinish looks good!
I think it's just one of the under panel bolts since I got all the wheel well push pins in along with the side screws and the ones near the frunk release. My shroud that covers those screws and the mechanism crumbled when I took it out so I ordered a new one today and finally bit the bullet and ordered a frunk and trunk release levers for the inside of the car.
Following on from last week's wrap job, I've added the P O R S C H E lettering to the rear. Thinking of leaving it like this and not adding the Carrera back on.
I jacked the front up to take a look at the steering rack to get the part number to order some front suspension components.
I was lowering it when the right side slipped off the jack stand and wound up landing on and crimping this line to the inside of the car. Anyone know what it is?
I have no idea how it slipped off. I was using a jacking point adapter and it was square on the stand. The adapter wound up about 10 feet away.
How screwed am I?
Thanks for the feedback. AC refrigerant line...just my luck, in the desert, during summer...
On an unrelated note, I just added the new AI component to my PCM, and it started to complain over the weekend due to the heat...
I replaced both the inner and outer door sills with new ones from rose passion. Old ones were peeling layers of plastic all over the place. Really happy to have it all clean again.
At least you can 😂. So you were on the stands. Did you have metal to metal or do you use the puck things that add some stability? I'm in constant fear of jackstands.... Need a garage and a lift by gum.
What else are you gonna do?
I was using puck-apapters, but my jack stands are cupped. It must not have been in the cup, though I swear it was when I went around back.
Either way, that's the last time using those stands. New, flat-topped stands are on their way.
j_bird - Sorry you had that **** puckering event, but glad no serious harm. I recommend lift bars with flat top stands for the future. So much cheaper than hydraulics and super solid, taking only a couple minutes a side to put car up.
Can you recommend lift bars? I hadn't considered them, because the ones I looked at were designed for the u shaped jackstands, and I have flat top ESCO 3 tons. I've been jacking my car up by the end of the stressed member that runs side to side in front of the engine, and then placing jackstands at the jack point. I hope I'm not bending anything, sure seems ok. My low profile back just squeezes in on an angle behind the rear wheel...
Edit.... If it looks like you can get ESCO axle stand adaptors...
https://liftbars.com/ need these ...
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PEL10497P.htm?pn=PEL-10497-P&SVSVSI=TOOL&fs=0
I am sorry this happened to you, but for future reference and for anyone else reading this cupped jack stands and lift pucks are a big no-no. You are best off with flat tops and pucks like you ordered, but if all you have is cupped stands you are better off carefully lowering the jack point onto the cupped stand than mixing a cupped stand with a lift puck.
Sorry to hear about this. I'm not sure what you mean by "puck adapters" -- were they the kind that lock into place like the ones below? It's worth getting locking pucks if you don't have them already.
I agree that those are great, but I doubt they would have solved his problem. Those aren't meant to be used with cupped stands. Even the manufacturer warns against it. for your floor jack, flat stands. or lift they are hard to beat though.
Yes, you need the Esco axle stand tops to work with the PorKen bars. I failed to mention that because I was incorrectly recalling my Esco stands came with both flat and curved risers. But those lift bars work great!
Use flat tops for mid-bar as safety stop device.
I used jack stands without an problems for decades.
Then in April 2020 I have an incident and decided to buy a QuickJack.
I still own the jack stands, but use my QuckJack unless the vehicle weighs more than 5000#.
I worked on jackstands for decades too, but the last big job I did told me that my body just doesn't want to do all that up/down stuff anymore. I'm happy to have a lift.
My jack adapters are the same shape as those above, but are all one material, they don't have the metal inserts (btw - do you have a source for those?)
New Esco stands with flat risers are on the way.
The black and white contrast is awesome. Did you paint the whole car?? I need to at least respray my front bumper and around the engine lid where my ducktail is the clear is gone also. I�m trying to live with the Pitina but who knows I really like Mexico blue. I drove mine today, went to HEB got some fresh made butter tortillas and a case of Miller lite. Damn that 99 is such a blast to drive, I only went 110 today to much traffic, the silver surfer is running like a champ.
No, just the lid for now. I�d like to get the aero bumper and skirts, then I might do a full respray after consulting with the body guys.
No sir, it is from RPMTechnik.
Did a fully brake flush on the 986.2 Boxster, then replaced the knackered front lip on the 996. Cheap eBay turbo version but these seem to be pretty disposable on lowered 996s, especially with my dodgy roads.
Still have to do some paint correction but this is an improvement.
A bit worse for wear
Much better.
...and now it's black, like the side and rear skirts.
Had a VERY productive and successful weekend with my 996.
Went to my Indie (and old friend) in the hopes of finally tracing the water that was always under the front mats close to the doors.
He went through the regular motions (sunroof drains, frunk drains) only to quickly discover that the mirrors leaked ! The foam gasket was 22 years old and compressed and allowing plenty of water to run into the door and drip down under the carpet of the door speakers and into the mat below. Solved and repaired ! Thanks a million Tony @ Automobilia Montreal
I then tackled replacing my old rubber bellows under my spoiler and found it to be VERY easy. Even took the time to lightly wire wheel the black metal trim (was chipping and exposing bar metal) and shot two coats of gloss black before reassembly. Done!
Swapped out the old and loose cigarette socket for a newer USA version that also allows my USB plug to sit deeper and almost flush.
Ordered some 3M foam to then tackle the "foam blowing in vent" issue later this week and also a backup camera to go with my double DIN Sony unit as well.
Today the lug nuts will be lightly wire wheeled and then primed before some silver Rustoleom paint is applied. Also WD40 the sticky area around my mags where previous lead wheel weights were applied.
Also this weekend tackled the Meguiar's three stage wax process with great results. Added two more coats of Carnuda wax last night too.
And finally my door speakers issue (not there or not connected) turned out to be false. They are indeed OEM speakers that are there and they work just fine.
Started by cleaning the supports and channel around for the top
Followed by some leather conditioner and paint job on the center console holding up well.
Time for a drive, Gassing up out of state.
Made for a great day.
Took the time today to tackle my absolutely nasty and rusted lug bolts. Budget just now does not allow for titanium upgrades so a little elbow grease will just have to do.
A brass wire wheel hooked up to my cordless drill cleans up the old lug followed by a good wipe down with brake cleaner.
Then no less than two coats of Rustoleom paint and ready to reinstall.
Hand tighten followed by a torque wrench and they seem to be holding up very well.
Dropped off at indie for IMS and AOS. Parked next to the kind of car I originally planned on buying.
I don�t think I�m going to get a call tomorrow with a list of suggested repairs, but never know with a car you just purchased.
Took the long way to the office today. Windows down, sonorous exhaust note. Just a beautiful drive. Nice to walk in the door with a smile on my face.
Squaw Pass Road, heading east toward Evergreen. Spoiled to be in my backyard.
It depends on how mechanically inclined you are. He claims at the beginning of the video that you can put an engine together with the video if you never built an engine before. I have built engines before and I still screwed up the first time because I skipped a verification step when installing a piston. It is all about taking your time, verifying everything and being careful.
Thanks I would consider myself average, I�ve pulled an engine before but never dealt with internals much. I�m sure I could if someone was helping that�s why I�m curious.
Jake goes into great detail.
If you listen to him and pay close attention, then you have a chance of building an engine successfully your first time.
I have built several engines before, most of them for racing purposes.
(VW aircooled, VW watercooled, Chevy V8, Ford Cosworth 2.0L, Nissan inline 6, and Porsche M96)
The Porsche M9x is the most difficult of all I've built because of the bank 2 wristpin circlips.
If you take your time to practice this BEFORE you get to that point in the rebuild, you can learn to get it right.
Last year in January I drove my new to me 996 1300 miles from a little town in Winsconsin. This year in June I drove the turbo new to me from Riverside California 1698 miles. After having driven 1100 miles the previous week coming back from Tampa in the F150. All these trips were straight thru, no sleep, off course bathroom breaks, food, gas etc. I love driving. The 996s are a lot of fun. I�m amazed how comfortable the 996s are for me. I�m 5-10 1/2 and I�m a big guy 262 lbs. Also driving the cars like that let you see monitor any issues, noises etc, put them thru the test. Congrats on your new to you car. Pictures please.
Passed CA smog test after futzing around with a P1109 code for a while. I actually haven't gotten rid of the code, but in reading about codes and CEL's, it seems that if the code doesn't trigger the CEL, it's considered a 'soft' code and isn't considered a fail if all the monitors are ready and the CEL is off. Now I can procrastinate on getting rid of the code for another 2 years!
Does that sound right? Oh, also, the code is not seen by my OBD2 reader, but is seen by Durametric.
After months spent replacing the full suspension: All control arms, subframe bushings, all four wheel bearings, drop links, Feal 441+ coilovers, etc....
I finally got an alignment yesterday and took it for a drive. It's beautiful.
I put the ride height just barely under ROW Sport height (137mm front, 152mm rear).
The final alignment was exactly at the desired spec. They got it perfect.
BTW. Took it to Graham Rahal Performance in Indianapolis. They did a great job and were super professional. I got to chat with the Tech for a bit and look under the car together, that was nice. It's a first class shop, and probably a bit overkill for an alignment, but I don't trust most mechanic shops (too many experiences with impact guns and general half-assery.), and I wanted to know it was done right.
At first my baby was a little self conscious:
But she ended up next to a Corvette, where she felt better.
I think Savannah was the only 996 C2. Lots of air cooled and newer models. The Hurricane region PCA was a sponsor and there were some beauties.
This 2018? 991 GT3 was fresh from the track, with rubber still adhered to the bumper and frunk. Guards Red?
1958 Speedster? I overheard some talk that it was a million$ car. Yikes. Nowhere near as fast as mine tho. Haha. How about that stance tho?
Lovely
Signal Orange? This was a full on race car. Braaaap!
Getting some Monterey car week vibes from this. You know what I mean....
This morning I drove the 996 to a Cars & Coffee event near the coast in NH. I saw plenty of eye candy (of the car variety) and talked to a guy who has a 95 993 that he bought nearly 20 years ago. I met an older gentleman while drooling over a real AC Cobra who ferries dealer and customer cars in MA and NH for a Porsche dealer by the coast. While he drives lots of Macans he still gets to drive plenty of 911s back and forth. That's the job I want when I retire!
All told, I drove about 100 miles, nice and cool with the A/C blasting. The cops sit not too far from the exit to the mall and nab people for speeding. It's too easy to get jacked up from looking at all of the cars and go blasting out of there.
Sorry, no pictures to post. I was too busy looking at cars than staring at them though my phone.
Not today, but on Friday I replaced some front suspension components.
Shout out to Dan (Porsches4all) for his superior jacking point lift pucks. Those combined with the new Esco jack stands helped avoid a repeat performance of Tia falling off of her jack stands.
Feels (literally) great to get rid of the clunking from the worn tie rod ends and lower control arms.
Can anyone recommend a good creeper? My back tells me I'm too old to scamper under the car on bare cement...
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Washed her up! Also installed the GT3 996.2 lip and Rennline tow hook. Then took her downtown.
The wheels are going up sale since I just bought CCW C14s.
Picked my car up from the body shop!
By the way the other cars were parked the wrong direction.
It has been a very interesting experience. The accident was 100% the other drivers fault and they admitted that to the insurance company, but the insurance company has been refusing to pay the actual cost to fix my car and was constantly trying to pull my rental car. I have spent well over 20 hours on the phone with them over the last 3 weeks and we are still fighting over payment. I got my insurance company involved now and may need to get a lawyer. The body shop on the other hand was incredible. Fantastic work and one of the best customer service experiences I have ever had in my life.
Frank's Accurate Auto Body in Slidell LA. It's a fantastic family run body shop that really takes pride in thier quality of work and customer service. They really went above and beyond to help me. They also happen to be the only Porsche Certified body shop in LA.
Sure, I have no problem sharing. I don't think it will affect anything. The insurance company is GEICO and I have been very surprised by the issues I have been having with them. My dad has had all of his insurance through GEICO for 30+ years and has had great service from them. My body shop works with them regularly and was also surprised by the way I was treated and the issue I have had. I was never rude to any of the GEICO people, so that wasn't why. It started off bad right off the bat with them screwing up filing the initial claim and that alone took me over an hour on the phone to get fixed. This by no means would have solved my issues, but it would have helped some. If you ever get hit by someone with GEICO, and likely other large insurance companies too, they assign you an adjuster who lives in the area the policy holder lives not where you live or the accident took place. So my adjuster was in Georgia and I am in Louisiana. In the future I will always request a local adjuster right from the start.
Id like to get the body shop details from you as its good to have one in the back pocket hope i don't need it,, your car looks great and that's a very good color. Gary - Baton Rouge
I have no garage, and some things I just feel better having a Pro do, and my Indy is wunderbar. Just posting to keep my anorak cred levels high.
New front and rear droplinks, TRW
Eibach anti-sway bar (26mm front and 22 MM rear) and swaybar bushings. they are a lot heavier than the stock ones, which are pretty limp. I noticed a difference immediately, even in city driving. It just feels 'better' and more responsive to steering. I have stock new B4 bilsteins and the stock off-road ride height on 17s w no plans to change. She's a comfy GT.
4 wheel alignment with the fancy thing in his shop. What a machine...Electronic, castor, camber and toe in. I did not ask and he did not tell. I assume, being how he knows my driving style and it's usage, it is aligned to factory spec for road use and low wear. Good.
Oil change (6 months) Motul 8100 x-cess 5w/40 Gen 2 (sadly no more Gen 1), new oil filter ( I had a UOA done at 500 miles on the last oil, and engine is healthy, no metals or plastics, everything within spec of Motul's add pkg). I had my guy add one bottle of Ceratec, Don't judge, it's my car. He also ripped open the filter, clean as a whistle.
crazy strong neodyn magnetic oil sump plug, for next time.
Transmission oil change. I had no svc history so at least now I know it is fresh. Indy reported only minor metal stuck to the magnet, perfectly normal
new fuel filter. Same story as tranny oil.
Powerflex manual transmission bushings installed, finally, had them a while. The trans and engine mounts are new, and at the very least the purple powerflex will protect the trans mount. My shifting is already fairly smooth, FF shiftright thing is installed, w new cable ends at the shifter, that I did myself. I'm planning on having him replacing the ends of the Transmission cable at a later date, it's on 'the list'. They must be very tired.
New ebay $149 special double outlet exhaust tips, chrome. They look awesome
It's dark n rainy here, perfect car wash weather, but what I really want to do is drive it. Gotta go.
Got some scaffolding in today, quite pleased. Awaiting schroth profi
I can feel a measureable difference just driving through town in the chassis. Its stiffer. It was worth it just for that. But mainly got it for harnesses.
The oil I have run, Driven XP9 is a pain to get having to order online and expensive. The cost of a case has gone up to around $200 / case before shipping.
I have been curious about the performance of a 50W oil and the VR1 is easily available, a lot less expensive than XP9 and from what I have read and the people I've asked about it, should work pretty well, who knows... I don't run UOA's so no data there but I'll see what the filter and drain plug magnet look like compared to what I'm used to and go from there.
If nothing else, will hopefully produce some interesting data on the performance of a 40W vs. 50W.
@zbomb
I'm going to ask my Indy what he thinks about vr1 50. There's also another German car performance shop in town I can call. I've just changed my oil, using the normal motul 5w40 8100 xcess gen 2 and a bottle, 300ml, of ceratec. Apparently gen 2 motul provides
Better protection of catalytic converters, DPFs and GPFs
if I remember correctly from a virgin oil analysis, zinc and phosphorus were reduced again. My Indy can't get gen 1 anymore. I'm probably worrying about nothing. Cats are relatively cheap, mine were. The Valvoline looks to be a good option. Would you use it for a daily driver? My car is not race like yours is, just a dd. Race oils are generally not intended for cars with cats but with my low mileage I'm not really worried about damaging them.
More concerned about 50 instead of 40 rather than zinc and other 'race' additives. But maybe it's better for my old loose engine.
I've been using it on my '80s cars for 10-20 years. I don't have any scientific data but the S38 engine in the M5 is still cruising along at 300,000+ miles. The only thing in common that the S38 shares with the M96 engine is rebuild co$t but still...
I pick up a couple of cases whenever it goes on sale.
Want to lend a little to all this talk about oil...
I'm no expert, never pretend to be. If you want to know what the experts think go over to bobistheoilguy.com, that's where the experts are.
I've been hanging out there since 2004 and let me sum up 18 years of reading...the only sure way to know if the oil you are using is correct for your particular car/usage is run it for a LONG time and do oil analysis on every oil change, and keep an eye of what you're getting in the oil filter.
There, that's the "old" guy advice...
Is that a "Factory Carrera Aero kit" ? Pretty rare to see on a Coupe ( mostly seen on Cab's due to the Taco doesn't fit) rather than the "Taco Aero"...
I gotta say it looks great on your Coupe, maybe because your car is so clean looking and "Grey"..lol
Funny, (not really). I took my ‘02 Seal Grey 996 out for a 500 km drive / weekend away after finally getting my IMSB solution installed. I also just had the new suspension and alignment parts all dialed in. This was the first time in the last five years I could drive the car without that tiny bit of dread thinking of that damn IMSB. I had a wonderful and spirited drive along a sea coast hugging secondary highway here in Nova Scotia.
Aaaah, but the 20 year old parts reared their ugly heads along the way home.
I blew up the AC compressor after hastily recharging the system the day before my trip AND I didn’t dare turn off the car on my home as my alternator gave up the ghost. Watching my voltmeter for the last couple of hours was my new IMSB. I arrived home at dusk with just a smidgeon of illumination within my headlights.
Nothin’ time and money won’t fix.
By the way…nice looking car.
By the
I had the FVD enlarged throttle body installed to compliment the IPD plenum and fabspeed exhaust
and shizer I�m impressed I didn�t think it would pick up anything but I was wrong
Which roads? Lots of sea coast roads around here
Sorry to hear about your AC and alternator. I can tell you that Battery and Electric, in Burnside rebuilt mine (03 996) 4-5 yrs back and its been perfect...and less than half cost of new. Might be an option.
so I bought the car as is, but going through the records the skirts were an option, and the wing was installed at the dealer by the first owner, at least that what it seems like based on the records I have. the two bits together make a world of difference from the �base� car, for better or worse depending on who you ask. I�m personally a big fan
Well, I kinda knew it was probably too good to be true. The thermostat housing started to leak. I got the correct gasket from pelican and replaced it today. Went for a drive and so far so good. I'll keep an eye on it obviously.
Samson I started with the fabspeed xpipe muffler delete my sounds amazing but loud power definitely arrived earlier and felt faster
then added fabspeed competition air intake the suction was addictive power felt the same
added IPD plenum and the car reached revs much quicker and a slight power kick
added FVD bored out throttle body and the revs are definitely quicker and the power now feels available at any RPM over 2k
with all these items my car definitely revs faster has fantastic pick up and a very noticeable push in the azz
my feeling is all combined I picked up about 30hp more and this was concurred by my tech who drove the car after each piece install
my final upgrade will a custom ecu upgrade on a dyno
Also I took the same roads after each upgrade and it’s about a 15 mile run from shop to my home always on the same day/time so I can hit redline for about 3/4 miles on a empty stretch to open her up
and each upgrade showed me that they all worked separately but together were fantastic and made POWER
Congrats Mike. Now that FSI/LN is in the intake and exhaust business, it will be interesting to get their take on why the 996.1 shows improvement with the IPD/TB and the 996.2 doesn't even with software tuning on a dyno.
Not to mention their improvements.
997 Sport manual seats arrived today. Got the driver's side swapped out (996 C4S with memory comfort seats).
Wiring is actually quite easy - no cuts. Just new leads from 996 car loom to 997 seat connector.
Sits slightly lower - not a lot. Much taller back. It does feel lower overall. MUCH more supportive than 996 comfort seats. I don't think there's an aftermarket reclining seat that could do what this seat is doing for me.
I'll post pics later.
Gc I don’t have dyno numbers but my tech and myself have noticed it’s definitely livelier the power comes on lower on the rpm range
And my tech has has 2003 911 with almost the same mods as I and he states my car feels faster and revs up quicker then his car
But without hard data it’s just my azz talking
Check out the gaming dyno thread. FSI/LN have a whole bunch of stuff they are working on. Love the Innovations that we have been seeing in the m96 world over the past rwo years, with more to come.
Correction: check out the Fabspeed Intake vs 3.8. All the threads are running together.
No there is nothing there. Some anecdotal information about how FS routes air and exhaust on their engine dyno. Also have to disagree with you regarding any innovations that have helped the average m96 driven on the street. My 986s is completely stock and will probably stay that way as long as I own it. It�s a nice roadster that�s enjoyable to drive in the mountains during the summer.
Okay I did read about he is developing the intakes and exhausts. Also looks like he is personally getting out of the engine selling business .
Unclear if those products will be available or even compatible with stock m96 engines or only FS ones.
I will agree that there are a lot of people selling upgrades for the m96 and 996 platform.
Hb,
Two of the biggest innovations over the past two years are the UAOS and all its derivations depending on your objectives on the street or track as well as the UIDS which is track focused.
The third biggest innovation will be an LN oil cooling kit that fits in the 996. Its already available for the Boxster/Cayman and can be used on the 996, but you gotta remove your side mufflers and go to GT3 center exhaust or straight pipes. Yep, this is a track related innovation.
Can't answer your questions about the FSI/LN details other than what is written by BRS-LN in posts 365,370 and 372 within the Fabspeed Intake vs 3.8 thread. Doesn't sound like anybody is getting out of engine rebuilding or selling, it sounds more like they are rethinking capacity constraints, availability options and implementation.
Wish I knew more.
But I like what I see with the renewed interest in developing M9X solutions. Before the development and release of the UAOS two years ago, and the renewed interest in the 996 during the pandemic, nothing new from an engine solution standpoint had been developed for over a decade.
Alot has changed in 2 years, with more to come.
Took the Lighthouse route to Shelburne / White Point. Route 3 and 332. The LaHave areas were the most fun.
Thanks for tip on alternator. I ordered a cheapo already but will likely get the original rebuilt�just in case!
I agree GC the innovations on a 20+ year old car is pretty amazing these people are trying to improve an old car engine design/function
I applaud them and can�t wait to get a FSI/LN monster motor on exchange basis
hb tell me what aftermarket guys are making new products on 20 year old car???
The entire american engine market. Pic up a summit catalog? The chevy ls and ford coyote motors r both over 20yrs/old. The bmw guys are updating their crap from the 70's and making those older cara faster. Its about selling product and making $. There are many more profitable platforms out there that carry a huge following. Porsche is silll a niche market.
This is the type of innovation born of the desperate awareness an extinction-level event is imminent. How many of us can face a $25,000+ rebuild to have a few years more happy and healthy, curve ripping miles? The time, effort and money to fix a broken motor makes me quake! This small-ish market has a limited pool of available brain power and resources, kind of by �Porsche Design�. For too long the power to fix so many weaknesses in the M96 rested in the hands of a very few, quite brilliant people. I see a lot more folks banding together to find solutions now; and much less moaning the old �Whoa is me� trope. I�m very thankful this innovative, stubborn spirit persists and is, just in time, providing us solid options to save our car species. I hope to be able to contribute more to this forum in the next couple of years, after I retire again. The only way I can do that is by siphoning off some of this energy, information, product development, etc; to keep my 996 as healthy and as prepared as possible. Three years ago, I had much, much less hope.
Soap Box Warning:
We, the 996 RL group, need to lighten up. Too much sniping, back-biting, snippiness. We need to continue encouraging formulation of more solutions, tools and resources. I really love the efforts many of you are undertaking to use data-driven approaches to solving some very old problems. I equally enjoy the efforts that may not yet have enough information gathered to provide a 6DOF proof. But there�s plenty of anecdotal evidence to support serious progress in the field of M96 preservation under all operating regimes. These are frustrating times, and I�m not just talking cars, so can we pause a moment before we press Post?
Now, I�m gonna take my 911 out to drive a kid to school. Because I can. Peace!
Dejeeper I agree with your statements but like GC says the niche market cars I should have said but American muscle cars are mass produced in greater numbers and share many parts between same manufacturers
the Porsche m96 engine is shared by far fewer
I own an 88 e30 m3 and I had a tough time getting any part before the pandemic now it’s almost impossible and many of the builders are retired and it leaves a few of the larger guys who pick and chose jobs
even you who is very good mechanically chose to use a better engine then what you had because you could
I have to buy my upgrades and pay for the install as well so it makes choices expensive and limited
I agree that the UAOS is a good product allowing to use more oil on the track. The UIDS has not been proven to be a better solution at this point. I personally don�t feel that oil pressure drops are a concern for me when I�m on the track.
I am very happy for all the performance upgrades available and being produced for this car. Most are based on the upgraded oem parts used in GT and cup models.
I always see you touting this oil cooler but what you don�t point out is that the stock cayman is about 2/3 the size of the 996.
I also believe the cayenne cooler used in the kit is close to the same size as ours.
It has to be relocated because of the intake not allowing a taller cooler. We don�t have that issue.
LN has been working on a cooler for the 996. Don't know where they stand with it. With all of their announcements as of late, it would make sense that we will hear about it sooner than later. As I mentioned, the cayman cooler will work, but you have to remove your side mufflers.
Compared to an engine that went into everything from school buses to Z28's, yeah okay. Compared to almost every other European car that people tend to modify, not so much.
I've posted stuff about 911's not being all that rare of a car before. Doesn't get a warm reception here. That doesn't make it wrong. Even so, on my recent 4,500 mile jaunt to TX and back, I'm pretty sure I was in places that had never seen a 911 before mine rolled through.
But in sure on your trip you at least 250 Chevy Silverado and probably 1000 Ford F-150
how many 911 did you see on your run?
I live in nyc and we have 7 Porsche dealers within 25 mile radius and I probably see 3 or 4 911 a week
and 2/300 f150
Thanks for the data Wdb. Seems that this niche market is HUGE. Add in rising M9x car prices from renewed demand for a 20 year old car, seems to me we are in for a boat load of new solutions that will come to the market. Looks pretty good to me.
I put on my spare tire today after my month-old Michelin went completely flat from a failed month-old tire valve
. The tire valve seemed cut at the base, so every bit of air came out of the tire. Hopefully the tire isn't damaged.
Rather than use the floor jack and a winter wheel, which were much handier, I decided to use the spare just to make sure all the tools were there and so I knew where everything was. Last time I used the spare was on my first 996.1 in the early 2000's, so I forgot where everything was. I don't think the spare had ever been used -- all the tools were there and it's actually a pretty nicely packed tool kit. The spare looked like it was inflated, but when I put it on the car it, it was at 4.7 PSI
. I filled it back up to 60 PSI -- I think the spare just loses pressure slowly over 22 years.
Moral of the story
:
It's probably not a bad idea to fill up your spare tire if you haven't done so in a long time.
.
You're brave for driving on that spare tire. I keep mine in case of absolute emergencies but I'd sooner plug a hole on the side of road. Did it get you to the tire shop though? That's good to hear!
Fortunately, I was home when I found the failed tire valve, so I just put on the spare to park the 996 in the garage until I can get the tire fixed, don't think I'll be driving it at all. I'll put the failed tire in the back of the Macan and take to the shop tomorrow.
When I had to change it 15+ years ago in my 2001 C4, I was at work and changed it in the parking lot -- it was hot and I was wearing a suit. I was pretty miserable with all the dirt on the flat tire/wheel. I don't think the full-size tire/wheel fit in the frunk, so I had to put it inside the car (I could be wrong -- it was a long time ago). I do know I was miserable -- no doubt about that
. It drove okay on the spare though.
One thing I learned about the spare tire during a rear tire flat on the side of the road is that the spare needs to go on the front only. The good front tire should be used to replace the flat rear, and the tiny spare should go on the front. What a PITA on the side of the road! I ruined my spare by using it on the rear. I didn't have enough air in it to compensate for the extra weight, and it shredded. Finding a replacement spare wasn't easy or cheap. Lesson learned!
Finished my rebuild and started it for the first time. Below is a video of it idling. I now need to put it back together, go for a ride, and start breaking it in!!!
You Tube
Replaced my second turn signal relay in a year. The URO relay lasted only a year. So I bought another URO relay to verify that it was the problem (it was), and ordered a good one from the dealership.
Started working on refinishing the bumperettes on my 99 C4 about a week ago . First I washed them then sanded with 400 grit sandpaper to get them smooth . Started with a self etching rattle can primer and put down three coats . Let dry for two days then sanded with 400 again . Yesterday painted with rattle can black gloss three coats followed by three coats of clear . All rattle cans from FLAPS . I have them sun curing on the dash of my truck . I think they came out fine .
Looks good, but I don�t think you should cure them in the sun unless that�s what the instructions for your paint recommend. Putting them in the sun typically gardens the outside surface too fast, which can impede curing in my experience.
I took her for the 1st real drive with the eibach antisway, drop links and 4 wheel alignment. I'm really impressed, no pushing or oversteer, and much flatter through sweepers. I'm so pleased in fact I am think I will forgo lowering springs or coilovers. It's good enough for me for sure. I'm sticking with the 17s and stock height. Loving it!
A fellow Hurricane Region PCA Member pointing at my car and saying, "that car has eibach antisway bars, I can sense it" And, "oh man, those $149 exhaust tips look sick!"
Had my bumper off for other work so while waiting for parts to arrive I painted my faded bumperettes. Don't have a before pic but they looked pretty gray and worn. Cleaned them with soap, water and then alcohol before spraying. I hope they hold up.
yours look great! much handier with a rattle can than I am. For trim pieces I usually sand them down if they're scratched and then apply a layer of Cerokote. Takes em back to black and lasts for a couple years. Also an inexpensive product. Can't recommend it enough. Especially for front lip repair.
Amazon
Amazon
Day off for the 996 after AutoX yesterday. Did relocate the heated seat switches to the blanks in the HVAC bezel in preparation of the GT3 console delete.
Went from three blanks to one. Need another accessory!
Note to self:
make sure the inside of the rear window is clean before installing the cage�
Now this could be a problem
Problem solved by a very scrawny & limber friend
It's mystifying to me how the rear floor mats in a 911 can get so filthy! No human with feet that can touch the floor can actually fit in the back seat. Defying long odds, I scrubbed the rear mats and got them pretty presentable.
Left = before; Right = after
This + a bit of elbow grease = magic.
I need some expert advice�. I bought this set of 18� rims and tires for my 2000 911. They are wider than the original tires and I just barely have clearance below the fender in back. When I accelerate they hit the fender. Can I put spacers in my spring to pick up an inch for clearance?? Like to have some thoughts. If I can where would I get them?
Also, check to make sure the aren�t any wheel spacers already in place.
I�ve seen many on RL talk about rolling the fender lip to make more space. I don�t know anything about it, but worth looking into if you�re bent on keeping these wheels.
As
@peterp
and
@JohnCA58
suggested, it looks like you're either running spacers or the wheel offset/backspacing is wrong. I can't tell if you picked up widebody wheels for a narrow body cab, or if they're just the wrong setup. I certainly wouldn't raise the vehicle to accommodate the wheels, and especially not with some spacer inserts. You'd be tampering with a precision part (the suspension) to accommodate an incorrect precision part (the wheel offset). Assuming you aren't running spacers, the best bet will be to sell the wheels/tires to another enthusiast who can fit them and get wheels with the correct spacing.
Sorry; it's an expensive learning process.
I can always count on replies on this site. Fortunately it�s not a money issue on the wheels. A guy took them off a new Cayman and sold them to me for 1000 bucks. I can get 2500 for them, no problem. I had the turbos that came on it refinished and I just wanted to put these others on for kicks and put the turbos on for shows and concourse. I though I could run some spacers and be able to remove them with the regular wheels.
I played played with the wheel alignment (again). I have access to a Hunter Elite wheel alignment rack at the school I used to teach at. Spent a couple hours in the shop on this visit, but the learning curve is steep. This is the 3rd time I've used the rack and played with the alignment settings on this car. It really is a game changer to get the suspension dialed in. I have a great appreciation for those who are good (and fast) at the dark art of setting up the suspension correctly.
Drove it. A lot. Made an early run upstate to look at a Caterham, came back home and picked up SWMBO and ran errands. Days like this are why it is my forever car.
One year in and I still crave hearing the exhaust note. Ain’t no K24 gonna make a noise anywhere near it.
I just bought a 66,000 mile 2004 996 coupe. The shocks and struts were replaced with Bilstein B4's (oem equiv) at 56,000 miles, and the car has not been driven hard. So no appreciable wear. I was tempted to do the springs and Bilstein B8's treatment, but really don't need the lowering on the mountain roads here in western NC. The car handles very nicely (also have a 981 Boxster with X73, so I'm familiar with sport suspension). I thought seriously about the Eibach swaybars, so am most interested in more about your experience and impression. Also can you tell us what end links you used (and what advantages they provide. I'm likely to move ahead with the bars (and alignment) but want to consider any additions while I'm doing the job.
Thanks for any comments from anyone on this relatively uncommon combination.
I'm hoping I can line up a set of these for myself. Been working on it this evening, and the odds are looking better.
They look pretty nice. Are you going to need to refinish them or send them out?
I also met my doppelg�nger my car is a 6/98 build Glacier white Aero the guy I met had a 6/98 glacier white in mint original condition I wish we parked next to each other since my car has transformed far away from stock
Started paint correction after suspension refresh. This is just after cutting, still need to polish, but happy with the results so far.
Hanging out at the PCA Concours show in Niagara Falls
Yes the carbon hood is so light but the white hood definitely looks better I’ll probably sell it to someone that wants it for their track car
the car show is pretty unreal considering we were next so many anti car young people who did show up in numbers
[QUOTE=NYPOWR4;18334127]Yes the carbon hood is so light but the white hood definitely looks better I�ll probably sell it to someone that wants it for their track car
the car show is pretty unreal considering we were next so many anti car young people who did show up in numbers.
Where ,and how often in Brooklyn ?
Gorgeous cars !!
There was a " Early Amber Glacier White/Savanna Aero " 99 with 50K miles available local to me for 25K a few years ago. I stopped and looked at it and talked to the salesman and told them how rare it was ( they had no idea) .....I should have worked a "trade deal " on My Sally for it but just couldn't turn loose of Sally...
After admiring it on another 2003 C4S at the track, I decided to debadge Annie's ****. Somehow it is even sexier!
I still have a little ghosting to polish out; I suppose that's the price of 20 years' worth of adhesive tape and a fair bit of built up wax over the years. But I really love the clean rear end. It doesn't look like the paint is faded at all so I'm confident she'll look like she never had a badge.
Were you there early or late? I was parked one row behind and to the right of your car.
There were so many mint cars just in the parking area, not even competing!
This morning I installed a Better Bodies " Singer style " ducktail rear spoiler . I think the size is near perfect for a narrow body . I have been priming/sanding/priming/painting/clear coating for the last three weeks . It is held on with 3M tape and I used the supplied 3M 94 adhesion promoter . It seems to have layed down well time will tell if it flies off . Sorry for crappy pics and my hand prints all over it but I don't want to touch it until it fully sets .
PCA UCR (Upper Canada Region) does this show ever year around the same time. It's the only public event of the year, check it out next year! $25 for car show entry or free admission to just attend. Have free Porsche only parking on the grass.
I got there around noon. I should have came earlier, way too hot then so I just did a quick lap around the show and left. Agreed that the parking area was full of great cars!
Oh, and finished the polish stage today and dressed with some PoorBoys Black Hole glaze. Plus a spy shot of some other coupes in the stable
So my car was throwing two codes and the fix finder said replace the maf. Tex squirrel told me to clean the maf. A couple of days ago I did, but the car started running rough. Anyway since my 3.8 Carrera s airbox is s tight fit, the hose from the airbox to the throttle wasn�t connected right and it was missing. The following day I disconnected the battery and went over it again and found the problem, Runing like a champ now, the CRC mass air flow sensor cleaner works wonders. I�m honestly thinking about cleaning the sensor now every 6 months with the oil changes. Anyway we got to Valvoline instant oil change showed them the coupon from National tire and battery and they changed my oil for $23, yes I supplied oil and filter. So this last oil change with Mobil one costed me less than $85 dollars and I got and Exxon Mobil $15 gas card to go along with it. Oil filter was great no debris. My original IPhone SE is out of space, I got to clean it up. Stay tuned.
Installed the
Rennline weighted shift ****
I swapped out of my wife's 986s (gave her a
Function-First shift ****
with the pattern). Not 100% certain, but I think I like the
@Rennline
**** better.
Then took a nice, long drive in the local hills. Spoiled to have these out my back door!
Installed Elephant Racing GT3 adjustable LCAs and Tuning Forks on the rear to match the fronts. Added Elephant Racing adjustable camber plates and new drop links in the front.
I replaced the alternator this morning in about two hours.
I broke the oil filler tube this morning in about two seconds.
I temporarily repaired my oil filler tube using an 1-1/2� rubber plumbing coupling in about two minutes.
I ordered a new oil filler tube online in about two minutes.
My new oil filler tube is scheduled to arrive in about two weeks.
@De Jeeper sent me a pair of coffin arms and tuning fork things. Thanks man, you're a stalwart Porschephile and true enthusiast. Looking forward to meeting you at the dragon. I hope. UPS is bringing me a package today, I'm guessing it's from you mate, cheers! Sadly I'm unlikely to be able to change our the control arms and forks myself. I'm so tempted to try.... But it means the car on jacks in my townhome parking spot, and it is still 90 deg here and hotter on the black tarmac. Way too hot for this old man. I'm scared I will get it up on jacks, get some parts off, then get stuck, which would necessitate an embarrassing flatbed to my Indy. Instead, I'm going to try again to get my rear window crystal clear so I can get my goodwood road and race member decal on. It's remarkably difficult to clean 22 yr old interior glass that has been neglected. I've polished and used all the tricks of the trade I can find online, and there is
still
some annoying sheen or film that is taunting me. And it's hot and awkward back there. I'm on break. While I was in there I again noticed how faded my rear carpet is. If they was black when new I'll eat my hat. There's no way. Now it's a washed out gray. I think it looks dingy, so I'm looking for a nice mat, probably Coco mat? to brighten up the room. Needs a good vacuum all round, while I'm in there. That's free at least 😜
I'm surprised you found the need for the adjustable camber arms in the back. With adjustable dogbones and solid adjustable puck in the LCA I was able to move it back farther than I needed to.
What rear camber numbers do you have? I'm at -3 and don't think I'd go further.
Kind of boring, but replaced the VIN plate window in the front trunk. The old one was in perfect condition, but had a partially broken tab and would fall off when working in that area. The new one clips in more solidly.
Thx, im just a guy that thinks everyone should be able to play. Wish i was still down your way, i would put them on for a cheap 12 pack. Ill be at the dragon and im sure u will make it.
I'm still on bone stock rear LCA's.... But I would like to ball out on matching elephant's for the back. I do think that with how stiff my setup is, the uniball's would be where the improvement is, I run 3 degrees of camber as well on the stock LCA's and adjustable toe arms. My dog bones are stock with uniballs in place of all the rubber, it's worked pretty well.
I will prob go up a bit in rear camber the next time the car is setup.
Yes I would agree about the LCA. I have the stock rear but have replaced the inner bushing with elephant sport hardness rubber and the adjustable solid puck. Would like to replace with the RSS that I have in front but they are so expensive. The only rubber I have in the front or rear are those the rear LCA elephant inner bushings.
I was asking about the caster or front diagonal control arm. Don�t really see why you would need that adjustable in the rear. The stock one is used throughout the entire 986,996,987,997 series.
Side note is that the first time you�ve dropped the engine? Very difficult doing it in the floor? Did you have help? I�ve dropped three by myself using a lift. Keep getting better at it.
Ahhh, got yeah - the Cup cars used stock caster arms, at leas the one I took apart did, I kept them as spares.
Yeah, first time I have dropped the engine out of my car, I did some odds and ends throughout the week - get the fluids mostly drained (the rest fell on me today), disconnected axles but really got after it today at about 10 and by 4PM it was out. Ummm yeah, doing it on jack stands is somewhat fraught with peril. I got the car as hight as I could on the stands, as high as my jacks would go and still needed 4 inches to slide the motor out, it was sitting on a HF hydraulic table which is probably 6 inches off the ground. So, I put a jack and a piece of wood under each header, lifted the motor just enough to slide the HF table out and put a furniture dolly in, the lower height of the furniture dolley let me slide the whole kit and caboodle out. I would say a solid hour of the process was getting the dropped motor out from under the car, a lift would have negated that kind of scary process. Friends... pandora and bud lite showed up at the end but neither of them felt like helping.
I have GT3 adjustable arms in the rear with Tarett monoball inners and solid camber pucks. I went monoball everywhere, it's crazy expensive. The only stock items left are the wishbone arms front and rear. I agree that there does not seem to be any good reason to change them for aftermarket, they are monoball arms from the factory.
Somehow I ended up with -2.8 camber in the rear, which isn't enough. Rear tire wear indicates I need at least another 0.5 degree as the outer edges are slightly feathered.
In front I have -3.8 degrees which is just about perfect. Front tire wear is very even. I need different front top spring perches, the ones with thrust bearings built in. My car sounds like someone's twanging a piano when I turn the steering wheel.
I do have Phenix Engineering adjustable dogbones. I would rather add a few shims to the GT3 LCA's though. The eccentric adjusters are about in the middle, so a 2mm shim each side will push it to -3.4 ish. I asked for -2.8 last time it was set up, which was a mistake. I should have asked for more.
still dialing it in. it wasn't really about getting numbers more than -3�, it was about stiffening up the rear with the ball joints and matching up with the front. plus (and this may sound bad...) I bought them because I could.
It's pouring rain here so took three quick pics inside . I really think the size/shape is a perfect fit for a narrow body . It is made of urethane so kind of flimsy before install . But it is quite solid when installed .
Thank you . I am trying to decide if I should remove the " Carrera 4 " script . I think it looks too tucked in under the ducktail . Plus I know it's a C4 so don't have to advertise .
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Another boring one. Cleaned up the spare and tools from after using them temporarily in the garage to get a broken tire valve replaced.
I said it in a prior post, but it's worth repeating --
fill your spare if you haven’t done it in a while
(or ever in my case
). Mine had something like 3 PSI
after sitting unused for 22 years - it would not have worked if I needed it on the road. Now refilled to the rated 60 PSI.
It’s also not a bad idea to use the tool kit to change a tire, at least once, (instead of grabbing garage tools) just to make sure everything is there if you ever need to use the spare on the roadside.
Did AOS, sparkplugs, plug tubes, coil packs, coolant flush, brake and clutch fluid flush. Also did a leakdown and borescope.... engine is healthy! Huge sigh of relief. 996 is definitely sticking around for a while. Also picked up a pair of manual 997 sport seats
As DbJoe said, they’re the Porsche 996 mats. You just need to be mindful when you trim the hanger off….they fit pretty well. Original mats saved for posterity…😀
To start... rear seats, spare tire, jack and tools. Swapping seats out for Recaro Pole Positions. Lithium battery. Probably rear deck lid for a carbon ducktail. I�m going to see where that gets me than try and figure it out from there.
Debadged my 99 C4 . With the ducktail the script looked like it was tucked up too far . Plus I like the clean look . Used dental floss and a plastic putty knife to remove . Came off without breaking so that's good . Then used WD40 to remove adhesive residue . I have about 95% of it removed going to go buy some rubbing and polishing compound to finish it off .
Bottom cushions don't really weigh much. The back cushions do. Sold mine awhile ago to a fellow RLster and have the weight receipt somewhere. I'll let you know if I can find it.
Front seat weight savings is huge going to a GT3 seat. Probably same with going to a pole position.
Someone will have the exact weight on RL.
Drove it in a rain shower. Doesn�t happen often. Over 60mph, I really didn�t need the wipers on. The Shape just flows the water off.
Forgot how comfortable the Targa cabin is with windows up and roof closed. Feels like walking in the rain, without getting wet. Stock sound system isn�t too bad either 😎
Dropped my mufflers only cat xpipe and replaced my seats with PLM carbon fiber 997 gt3 knockoffs I shaved 103 lbs
tried the carbon fiber hood didn�t like the look but it was 27lbs lighter
back seats are next
remove spare and tools. Remove heavy pancake mufflers, remove cats, catless x pipe. Change headers. Remove back seat. Make car rwd. Antigravity battery. Go to 17 inch wheels. Get 4.0 engine and add
a turbo, then the car will fly.
Better answer today for you...after playing around with the camber for the last week, it is INFINITELY easier to go from stock camber to -3� and back with the Elephant Racing GT3 LCAs than using the stock camber offset bolt that (for me) is a pain in the *** to get to easily with the wheels on. Very happy with spending the extra coin to get a sharper ride and quick change geometry.
Installed my hard top for the first time in 10 years. Was raising the windows and discovered my driver's rear window regulator bit the dust. Can't wash it until the window is fixed. You can image how dirty the top is!
3260 lbs seems heavy relative to factory specs. I think the factory uses similar conditions, and the factory weight for a C4/coupe/6-speed is 3032 lbs.
All-wheel-drive adds 131 lbs over the 2901 lbs C2/coupe/6-speed weight. Some have converted C4's to C2's for driving feel, I'm not sure how much weight the conversion saves though.
Sorry, back to these stupid clutch springs. Last I reported, I had ordered the spring for a 997. It was super light weight, like the original. Then
@theprf
mentioned the turbo spring was stiffer. So I got one of those. It's great. It's almost as stiff as no spring, but smoother, and pushes the pedal back up against switches completely. It's the one on the top.
Fed the USB wire through the dash, finally...
And, wore one too many pairs of jeans against the seat and broke through the bolster. Who is the preeminent upholsterer in the SF Bay Area?
The net is a little less when we r in our cars
Not really sure where most of the weight is but i do like that it doesnt sound like a tin can with rocks rattling around when driving.
Changed out the struts, shocks, rotors and pads yesterday (long day). Don't know why the rear shock turned out to be so fiddly, it took way longer than expected.
The front struts were pretty worn and useless. Rears were in good shape. Rotors were in pretty good shape too. All in all, I was expecting worse for 20+ years and 120k miles as they were all original to the car. Now looking at some rack time in the auto shop to work out the alignment.
Went to Flemington Porsche for 911s on 9/11 a little patriotic get together
Met some great people about 100 Porsche car showed on a crappy day
but some drama on the ride home a blow out at about 70 a little azz pucker moment
thank god for my group the outlaws they helped me change my rim in the rain on the side of the road
Sounds like a great event, but that sucks about the tire. Would you mind sharing the manufacturer date/mileage/etc on your tire? I had a MPS4S fail with a very similar inside sidewall blow out a few months ago and am curious if maybe it was a bad batch or something, as mine was like 2 years old with about 3k miles and properly inflated. Also, be sure to check the spare tire pressure! Mine was at 5 PSI when I put it on!
Are you certain it was a sidewall failure? Sidewalls look like that pretty quickly after a tire deflates. A deflation at 70MPH would probably do that to the sidewall.
It was definitely a pop after a small dip in the road tires were checked completely 2 days earlier and driven since 43 miles in rain so heat wasn’t a factor
plus there is 2 noticeable holes and quite large
Thanks for sharing. Mine was 21st week of 2019, so I guess they weren't the same batch. That's lucky! I've been thinking about getting a small pump to carry in my 996, like I used to have in my 944.
That blow out looked bad. Glad you and the car are ok. I had a similar flat, and I remember thinking, �well, a can of fix a flat would not have been any help at all.� When I had the new tires mounted, I had the spare filled with nitrogen- it tends to leak down slower. Thank goodness for spare tires. Just another reason why 996s are great cars.
Filling with nitrogen is a great idea since the spare seems to leak down to very low pressure much faster than full-size tires. Here is something most probably don't know =>
Costco has free nitrogen air pumps for customer use at their locations
. Although it's intended for members, you don't need a membership card to use them and it is self-service.
Mike, sorry to see. Glad you didn't do any damage to you or your car. Thats a crazy rupture on a relatively new tire with a very strong sidewall. You give us all reason to pull the spare out of the frunk and make sure it holds air. Let us know if you figure out what happened to it.
Nice, apart from the blow out. I went to that event last year.
This year I got the car back from the shop (AOS, plugs, coil packs, plug tubes, SAI lines, coolant flush, brake flush, clutch fluid, bore scope, leak down, cabin filter) once I got it home I installed some 997 manual sport seats (huge improvement over stock) finally feels like I'm sittin IN the car and not on top of it. Also put on some rennline 15mm spacers. Then partook in a PCA trek. Great turnout and route as always. Car performed flawlessly (no surprise)
Tbis weekend, changed the oil and replaced passenger side window regulator.
Just now: sold it. I'm kinda sad about it. Wife was driving it, mostly, and she got tired of dealing with Austin traffic and having to heel-toe everywhere with the 6 spd.
Had my 996 Cab for 16 years! Best damned car I've ever owned. Bulletproof, meticulously maintained, and other than a blown tire and a flat spare once, it never left me stranded.
Now on the lookout for 997 or later, but <cringe> automatic - gotta keep the wife happy...
I fiddled with the clutch pedal assist spring, removed the alarm system related ground wire from the radio mounting shell to accomodate aftermarket radio. I also glued the sunroof switch into place since it was going up into the enclosure when pressed.
Just bought my 996 3 days ago. I am looking forward to more projects.
Did the gearbox oil change with PTX. Rerouted the engine deck emergency release wire to the very inside edge of the left taillight. Now I can get to the loop with the tip of a key. Replaced 200 cell cats that were throwing codes for efficiency. Replaced Topgear with Topgear. I was in the first group of North America buyers and the O2 post cat position was off, so it took some doing to get things to work right. Price is still low and the O2 bungs are placed better with the later version�no issues with fit or sensor placement. I never replaced these cats before, so I wasted time futzing about going back and forth to tool bench, thinking through the processes and referring to Bentley, RL and Pelican. 7 hours total. I have basic skills and completed everything solo while kids were in school.
I had both bricks loose. Couldn�t tell by tapping them while on the car. I�m not sure why they failed, but I suppose having some issues with oil burn on starts, crap AOS�s and sub-par injectors over the last 5 years and 15,000 miles contributed to their demise. I�m hopeful this set will last because engine issues have all been sorted.
Notes:
1. Bumper cover off! So much easier to access the sensors.
2. You use the 13mm and 17mm sockets and wrenches a lot. So have different flavors available of those sizes.
3. I liked bank 1 cat removed last (left side as viewed from rear) and on first (obvious when looking at the photo, but not so clear when I�m under the car).
4. Have some high-heat anti-seize on hand.
5. The cat-to-muffler sleeve clamps have a square arresting hole that caused me a lot of grief. The big bolt square above the threads will corrode and round off. And the top is very flat and round. Be prepared to saw bolts.
6. I have an adjustable wrench that has SAE on one side and metric the other. Very useful for the O2 extensions and sensors.
7. Cell photo the placement and orientation of the clamps for the pipes. You need to preposition them correctly as you put the cats on.
New Topgear 200 Cell Cats
Reattached the side skirt aero thingy. A few screws popped off and the passenger door was scraping the top of the (dumb) skirt. I repainted the scar with a little wee bottle of model car paint.
One year of ownership and treated the old girl to her second oil change by me. 103,064 and not a spec of anything
in the oil filter. Tried out our lift bars for the first time. Man is that a stable platform to work from.
sounds great. Sound does not equals performance. Why would you guys not do an independent test on a third party dyno showing before and after numbers. I had a set of your headers on my early 996, traded them for a set of agency power headers , in addition to almost a 5 lb weight reduction, the money part, my butt dyno liked this set up better. Your sound video is just marketing, I have a bachelors and masters in engineering and an mba. The marketing guy in the professional mba program hated me from day one because I told him that marketing was someone convincing customers that buying a $50k BMW was great when a $20K Toyota Corolla would do to take you from a to B. Substance please. By the way now Raby, FSI is doing exhaust, headers etc, so now you have another super technical competitor that actually builds engines, bullsht marketing is not going to work here anymore.
Hey Boff, Little bit of friendly advice. I like to park a little further out than that when I go to the mall. Not so close to the riff Raff. On the other hand, I don't go to the mall. What is a mall?
Nice picture, but you should have snapped a photo of when you came back out and there was a rusty Olds 88 parked right next to you.
If this didn't happen to you, we must be talking about different malls
.
The red rear brake light has always bothered me. Worn and white around the letters from polishing.
I changed out the pumpkins then found this led replacement to match.
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Did mine a while back as well along with the one in the spoiler, really cleans it up!
Ordered the smoked ones from fvd:
https://www.fvd.net/us-en/FVD6319960...t3-smoked.html
To their credit, they are not making any power claims at all, either in the video text or in their ad listing (
https://soulpp.com/product/porsche-9...side-mufflers/
). It's clear their primary goal is to get slightly sportier sound without being over the top, which it seems they've achieved. If someone just wants a sportier sound without being overwhelming, these might be a good option. If someone wants more power, they should look for an exhaust is specifically designed for and claims power increases, and then those claims should be verified.
Was finally able to replace the AC hardline I crushed with my jack stand. It was relatively straightforward, but had to do a bit of yoga to get the new line in place - it's J shaped...
Did the AC receiver drier too, now just have to meet up with my HVAC buddy so he can charge it back up (he captured the refrigerant for me).
This was the first time disconnecting the battery, so when the cabriolet wouldn't operate and the windows wouldn't automatically roll up/down at first I was a bit surprised. Turns out taking it for a test drive made it work fine.
Anything else I need to be aware of when disconnecting/reconnecting the battery?
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You are 100% correct, Sound does not equate to performance but it certainly equates to a more connected driving experience and more enjoyment of the time spent in a car. If your goals are putting on a mod and gaining maximum performance differential, then mufflers wouldn't be the first stop. My first recommendation for most customers is high-flow cats in states where that's still allowed. Why? Well, many of us 996 guys are driving around with as much as 25 years of deposits built up in our factory cats. Deposits are restrictions. 996 cats fail (mine did) which will then restrict flow even more. A healthy engine and exhaust system is the best way to ensure power.
I personally threw the kitchen sink at my 996 (twice in many cases). Like you, I was searching for the magic combination on my 99 to make it a real performer on tired, old engine. Loved every minute of it, and having spent a ton of my own money, my goal is to help our customers make smart buying decisions and setting proper expectations. I ended up with parts (in 2015, before SOUL was even an idea) that shifted all of the power to the top end. I felt like it was a big mistake on the street, but on track the car pulled much harder to redline and my mediocre driving was rewarded with an engaging experience and better lap times. These things are very goal dependent, which is why I love talking to my customers on the phone rather than just sending them to the site to buy stuff '***** nilly'.
Engineers design products, marketers tell the public about those products, sales people make sure customers are buying the best product for their needs. At least that's how John and I do it at SOUL.
Dave @ SOUL
Headlight lenses are tired, so I figured I�d give this a shot. It�s vinyl, so if I end up not liking it (or Johnny Law doesn�t), it�s easily reversible.
Installed new motor mounts from PRG. Aside from two unscheduled side trips for an 18mm deep socket I somehow didn’t already have and longer bolts because the supplier accidentally supplied the wrong bits, this was a very easy and gratifying job. Hoping to do the transmission mount tomorrow or over the weekend at the latest.
Fait accomplis.
No, just cleaned them and laid down the vinyl. I really can�t see them staying yellow for long, and I should hopefully have more free time over the winter when the kids sports are all done (the jokes we tell ourselves!) to refinish them properly.
I had to do the same.. on mine the plastic broke and allowed one of the edges to pop up higher than the hood.. It broke right where the bolts are under the covers in the corners..
gotta love 20 year old plastic..
New wheel center caps. Arctic Silver cab with black top, so they match the car well. The old ones were plain silver.
And, yes, the crests all point toward the valve stems.
Thanks guys - yes. Old leak. AOS replaced w UAOS along w vent hose, etc. Just haven't gotten around to cleaning up the whole area.
Made a mess on my garage floor too when changing the sump. Gotta clean that up too.
While
@De Jeeper
was setting personal bests on the 12 turn NJMP Thunderbolt track I was doing the same at their 10 turn Lightning course.
3.2 secs better than a year ago.
Not finished with the project yet . . . but I�m in the process of painting and installing Variel headlight covers for my 996 to give them the 997 round headlight appearance.
Still tweaking the final color. I�ve got a unique Paint to Sample color to match.
The covers have not been installed on the car yet. They are just resting on top of the headlight lenses. They will sit flush once installed.
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Little things that have been driving me nuts since I bought the car almost 2 years ago. I repainted the rear bumperettes satin black. I also removed the Porsche crests from the wheel center caps and stripped them down in lacquer thinner to remove all the old paint and adhesive from the stamped aluminum crests. I scuffed them up a little with fine steel wool, wiped them down with alcohol and primed them. Then I used my airbrush to paint them gold. As a competition level model builder, sitting there for hours hand painting tiny details black and guards red didn�t bother me.
I�m very happy with the results!
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Took her back to AutoX for the last laps of the season. Great time with my local PCA friends (Rocky Mountain Region), including another Lapis 996 (over gray) and a Seal Gray over black.
Liveried for autocross.
Beautiful 930. Driver was shredding the course! Love to see valuable metal driven like she's intended.
On the grid.
How do you like those PLM seats? Did you get the fixed-back ones or reclining?
I�ve been eyeballing them myself vs their 996 GT3 knockoffs & getting a custom leather reupholster.
Quality good? Any flexing?
thanks!
I originally thought I'd take "PY LK ITS" but that iteration seemed cumbersome. It's parked where a lot of people see it, and it's fun now seeing people trying to figure it out.
My turn!
Look at the hardware! 20 years and zero corrosion. All nuts spin off. I love California cars.
Weird thing, I checked the suspension heights after 500 miles on the GT3 wheels, and they were much higher than with the 17" Carrera wheels. The front measured 111mm after corner balance. Changing to the GT3 wheels bumped it up to 136mm. I've reset it to 120mm, which is within X74 height spec. Re-corner balance and alignment next. Not sure where the 25mm came from. The difference in front tire diameter is only 7.5mm. The rears went up by 6 & 10mm, and those are supposed to be the same diameter. Stiffer sidewalls? Not 25mm worth. Curious.
Learned how to remove locking lug nuts using the 11/16" 12pt socket method. A few taps with the BFH and they dig in well enough to grab. Not sure where the locking lug socket got to. Poor BFH looks pretty bad. It's been outside for a bit. My wife left it outside after finishing a project.
And here's the issue: How to get rid of this rub? Should I cut a hole around the area? Will GT3 liners get rid of the problem? Not sure they'll fit the standard bumper cover. I don't really want to reduce the width of the tire. The 235's look great.
There r a couple ways to remove the rub. An adjustable caster puck in the lca will allow u to physically move the wheel rear ward. The free way to do it us to remove the liner, tweak the fan bracket and then heat the liner with a heat gun and mold it out of the way.
Got it. Thought the thrust arm bushings offset hole would help with the caster. My car is lowered on H&R springs and the front wheels definitely are pushed forward a bit, although only passenger side touched the liner.
Went for a drive and met Max, the owner of Retrowerks and this awesome Martini clad 964. Super cool guy who was loves talking anything Porsche.
The day before, I got talking to a guy at The Rock Store with this original 356. It's no trailer queen. It's been molded, raced and driven regularly. He was nice enough to let my kid sit behind the wheel.
Also rented the 992 in the background. Went for the same drive the following day in my old 996. Can honestly say, I had more fun in my car than I did in the new one.
Received some goodies from the UK for my eventual slick top and aero kit conversion. Fortunately had a buddy working over there the last few years to help with logistics. Why the UK do you ask... Good luck finding a used non-sunroof headliner in the US. New ones in alcantara had a 12 month lead time when I last checked, and the $2200+ price was a little hard to stomach. Found this one for around $300. Looks like they currently have one in savannah if anyone is interested (
https://www.douglasvalley.co.uk/pres...flining-17143/
) . Similar story on price for the replica Mk1 aero kit front lip.
Non-sunroof graphite grey alcantara headliners are pretty much non-existent in the US so I sourced one from a country that never sees the sun.
https://clubautosport.co.uk/product/...3-lip-spoiler/
Yea because they replace the rubber bushing.
Yes as u adjust the height the caster changes and as u adjust the caster the wheelbase changes. Its why the tires hit. Its really just 1 more adjustable part so u can get it right.
thanks, but I need the actual numbers from the inside of each of the wheels, something like 10x15j or something like that I need that number for each of the wheels please
Oh yeah, NJ is now the only one. Oregon passed a law a few years back letting people pump their own. I was at a gas station near a university in Boston a few years back and I had to help a mother from New Jersey figure out how to use the gas pump, because she had never pumped her own gas before and had broke down in tears trying to figure it out. I'd like to think she was really distraught over dropping her kid off and that ordinarily could have figured it out, but you never know...
On topic, what I won't be doing to my 996 this weekend is brakes because the parts never showed up, so hopefully next weekend.
Been almost 4 years since I last did this.
Meguiars Medium Headlight restoration
My 3" orbital buffer - doing it by hand was not getting anywhere
IPA spray to clean
Very happy with the job!
Before
Equipment used: Meguiars Medium Headlight restorer, my 3" orbital with their pads, IPA spray
after Right
after Left
Bought more parts, and now waiting for the delivery truck. Coming soon:
Alpine amplifiers (2) install with Sony head unit
Replace knackered right rear taillight (cracked and stained)
Replace two underbody panels I saw were broken when I did the transmission mount
Mesh grill material to update/refresh radiator grilles
Also starting to look at supplemental LED fog/snow light additions for winter driving.
Hit a milestone...
About 11k are mine. Not bad for 9 months of ownership.
Also, finally got all my brake parts delivered. Haven't decided yet if the Porsche or the diesel is getting my attention this weekend, though.
I'm currently working on cleaning up the back end of my 2004 C4S, My rear tail lights had some cracks in them and I am not ready yet to spend a $1000 on a new pair, but I saw this option on YouTube and decided to do it to my rear end:
As you can see the driver side light not only has cracks but some delamination on the top, while the passenger side also has some cracks, Also I like the red bar but not the big white lights, so I changed the look a little:
so I also had a little extra Light wrap so I also updated my clear side lights
,
As you can tell by the previous photo, next up is removing the "Carrera 4" and painting them Black and paint the "S" Red and remounting, that will be the next post, and maybe a little extra!!
Lou Smaldino
2004 Carrera 4S Cabriolet with Stage 1 Steet Performer 3.8
Here you go 1988 Silver Rose Turbo S
And here is the 1988 944 (NA) Celebration Edition which came with the Jubilee coin:
Tartan interior was also available on early 944s and 928s, and obviously G-series 911s too. I absolutely love it. Before I decided to sell my NA 944 I was going to redo the interior in Tartan.
Edit: I love your seats they look great.
Curious why you didn't do the tartan on the back seat bottom cushions. As I'm planning mine, I've been thinking about doing the entire rear seat bottom tartan. I know it doesn't have the side pieces so it would either have to be redesigned a bit, all leather, or all tartan. Just curious how you made the decision. (Yellow seat belts are awesome, BTW!)
Started installing the rennline throttle pedal hinge. Much more of a pain on cable throttle cars. The brass insert collar does not fit over the dowel pin. Had to bore out the inside a bit.
Installed a single din Kenwood to gain hands free capability. Noticed some foam in the cabin, so I went through the steps of removing the heater core and cleaning up that blend door. Also, figured the rads hadn�t been sprayed off since the creator created, so I removed the front bumper and separated the AC condenses from the rads and cleaned everything up.
Just thought the car had a lot going on..
and can always have that done depending on the finished product
New Top
New Top hydraulics
Painted center console
Painted Sport seat backs
carbon wheel
carbon dash trim
18 inch 2 piece BBS wheels
Were there really 393 Porsches there? Wanted to go, but had a conflict. Somebody at another PCA event said you need to be there early and stay late for the Boardwalk even (which I guess is dictated by parking logistics).
Not today but very recently ...
Replaced front rotors, pads, and wear sensors.
Replaced rear rotors, pads, and wear sensors.
Cleaned out front radiators .
Reconfigured my after market head unit, Pioneer deh-80prs, to use internal amp while waiting for amp repair.
Next up is replace drivers side seat belt buckle to hopefully resolve the airbag light. Cleaning contacts did not work.
Swap out winter tires by mid-November.
Peter to be on the boardwalk you had to be there 9-4 we staged at the airport and drove up the boardwalk but you could park on the street
my outlaws group had 13 make the trip but 5 of them peeled off after lunch but seriously the show and quality of cars were amazing
That�s exactly what we did..
We found a supplier online, ordered swatches then had the material custom made after the sample swatches arrived
We work with a shop that does a lot of Porsche restoration work, so they kinda know the look that we�re going for
Finally found and installed some manual 997 sport seats and some black leather rear seats. No more sea of gray? Yes, please. I�ll be adding some install pics, lessons learned and tips to the 997 seat swap thread tomorrow.
I love these seats!
A boring one: Got a flat tire fixed, actually a slow leak that went flat over about a week. Discount Tire, they found a nail and were able to repair it, no charge. I do like Discount Tire, been using them for probably 20 years or so. They fix flats for free even if the tires were bought elsewhere. Which reminds me the other thing I really like is the air compressor in my garage.
I wanted to see if I could stop some squeaking from what I see thought were the seat belt shoulder / b pillar covers. I found this helpful post over on renntech (I think)... It's always nice to learn something new🤪 all credit to "them" over there.
<snip>
This is to help all those who have removed the seat belt adjuster the wrong way (I did it too, that�s how I know) and couldn�t get the cover back on. Firstly remove the piece that is still attached to the seat belt adjusting mechanism. You do this by levering it off. It is clipped in place with a centering pin into the seat belt fixing bolt. It makes a strange noise but it will come off. I used a proprietry trim removing tool, but a large screwdriver should work. Refer to attached photo You then have a metal piece C, a plastic piece A. You will also have the cover D, that you took off before, with the metal clip B in it . Remove B from D Insert C into D Refit B into D (this will hold item B in place) Lastly clip in item A You now have the whole item in one piece, which can be refitted to the car.
Hope that�s some help.
</snip>
Those seats, depending on price, are on my to-do, for next year or the year after. Hey it's good to plan and dream. I might just go for aftermarket reclining buckets as well tho. Need to go try some recaro or a good cheaper option. Corbeau maybe?
https://corbeau.com/sportline-rrx/
mmm plaid 👍
looking forward to your update.
My solution for getting rid of the squeaking was swapping out those parts for the GT3 version (996-803-541-00-01C). Price difference is absurd. $3ish for the GT3 version vs $100+ for the standard 996 one.
Well done. Pulls some color from the paint so it all goes together. Breaks up the sea of gray too. I�m looking to do something similiar with my Meridian Metalic someday
@jandackson
,
meridian metallic owners unite! My car is picture 13194+ on the rennbow page here :
https://www.rennbow.org/porsche-colors/MeridianMetallic
This is unquestionably the tip of the century!!!!!!
Looks much better than the original non-GT3 version, and presumably less prone to falling off. Mine fell off when barely touched while putting something in the back seat. It has been on my "to do" list for a long time to figure out how to put it back on after my initial attempt failed. Glad I procrastinated because replacing with the GT3 cover will be much better.
I'm already doing the math on the performance and handling gains from the reduced weight of the GT3 part!
.
Replaced my brake pads today. Several times.
. I got Genuine Porsche brake pads from Pelican Parts. Grabbed the box with the large letter "F" on it, jacked up the passenger side front and replaced the pads. Jacked up the driver side front and replaced the pads. Jacked up the driver side rear and the new pads wouldn't fit. Reading the very small print it says that it fits 996 Turbo and 996 Carrera 4 rear and 996 Carrera 1999-2001 front. So the box with the large letter "F" on it was actually the rear pads. The letter "F", which I thought indicated "Front" was just a storage location designation sticker applied by Pelican. The rear pads fit the front and rear, the front pads only fit the front. So if I started at the rear I wouldn't have had to do the job multiple times. On a plus side I could now do this job in record time.
They do get pretty beat up over time, especially if you're lowered and don't pay attention to inclines. A friend of mine had one pretty damaged after hitting a racoon. Their lifetime warranty is pretty solid with people sending back old oil and used up brake pads so I'd see no issues here.
Finally got a chance to test fit my new lips on my Fikse’s. I think the offset is perfect and very aggressive the way I wanted it to be. Trying to make a final decision on what color to powdercoat my centers. I am considering silver, satin black, and satin gunmetal right now. I think I am looking to do satin gunmetal so that the centers won’t completely disappear. I think the satin gunmetal will provide the contrast I wanted, but also show off the wheel design and spokes. What’s everyone’s opinion of this look on a Speed Yellow car?
Congrats! I was close to pulling the trigger on it. I�m a sucker for Vesuvio. Add it to the registry in my signature if you can.
This one popped up a few days later and I had to buy it.
Installed a cheap yet practical radio head unit.
The quality is lacking in many areas but it has a functional apple carplay /android auto and fits in the existing radio enclosure without any modifications. I know the hvac controls can be move downward but I have a lower console delete kit installed and like the extra space for my leg to stretch out.
Sub $100 radio link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0B1PGVX8J?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Can you download an OBDII App on that type head unit and connect to a bluetooth dongle to read some engine values while going down the road? ( while also listening to the radio?)
this one is not an �android head unit� that allows apps like torque to be added. It is possible that an android phone running android auto through this head unit can do what you describe.
I removed an old pioneer cd deck so the wiring kit and mounting components were already in place. I need to drive a bit more to understand sound quality and usability. So far everything seems ok ( used it for 5 minutes)
This actually doesn't look too terrible AND it has a volume ****! Kudos for trying it and let us know how it works out. I wonder if it could be wired into a stock Bose system with the stock amp. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for that and a CDR-23 radio? For less than $90 might be worth a try and return back to Amazon if it doesn't workout.
it has 2 rca pre amp outs allowing it to be wired directly to 2 996 Bose amp channels (2 speakers only). I ordered this adapter (link) and will report back. If it works as expected the cheap deck will operate all 4 speakers via the stock Bose 996 amp system. Another issue is the lack of a remote amp turn on wire in the little radio. I solved that by wiring the amp turn on to the switched power wire. I found another little box that may work better than my solution here as well.
The 4 speakers not just 2 box arrives this next week so I�ll check on that first.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0796RJ2PR?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
I haven't seen the bose amp inputs, but assuming there is another pair of RCA's, it seems like you could use a pair RCA splitters from radio output to feed the Bose inputs. You wouldn't have "fader" control, but it doesn't seem like you have that anyway and I've always found fader = 0 to be best with the stock amp.
I grabbed an rca cable as pictured above and it works. Of course the rear speakers are playing an identical sound track to the front ( maybe this is normal) and not independently adjustable. In essence you loose the fader function.
after a day of driving here are my thoughts
- apple carplay works , I dictated no less than 10 text messages and it worked as expected, transitioning back to Spotify after each text was sent.
- the screen froze when I lost reception and I had to hit the home button to get the frozen call in progress screen to clear.
- this thing is supper cheap and kind of crappy.
- it fits in the dash without any modifications at all.
- for what I need and want it works and was under $100
- if a higher quality single din apple car play unit is introduced in the future I will probably upgrade
- it looks similar to the unit Porsche markets for classic 911�s
Finally got around to changing the gear oil in the transmission and front differential.
Managed to spill about half a liter or more of the $30 per liter porsche gear oil and now I have the pleasure of the worst smell ever stuck in my garage and nose.
Good times!
I haven't driven my 3/98 Carrera 2 with just under 215k in about 2 months because of a radiator leak on the right side. The core swelled out and corroded I found out when I removed it. I ordered a right and left replacement along with all the associated hoses, from an online parts house, picking the Mahle/Clevite brand radiator for cost effectiveness vs quality. Imagine my complete surprise when I received the first part of the order today, and this Mahle radiator has the OEM Behr end tanks on it and the quality looks excellent. Very happy with that purchase at $165 each.
Today I installed the right radiator and new inlet and return hoses. Plus I'm about halfway thru straightening all the flattened fins in the AC condensor before I put the scoop back on. Hopefully the rest shows up tomorrow.
Next project is the engine, chain guides, timing chains, tensioners..etc. Does anyone have a complete OEM parts list from doing this or similar job? I'm strictly DIY and I want to have it all in stock here before I get started. Much obliged if you can help out. Got to get this old girl back out prowling around again.
Front having identical audio as rear is normal. You definitely do lose fader control, but I've experimented with front/rear fader balance and always keep coming back to even balance sounding best, so I don't think it's much of a loss in practice.
Well after another day of driving around with this new radio I can say I don�t recommend it. It is disappointing because the interface and size seem perfect for the car. All the functionality works but it is too feeble to handle switching between inputs or a few things happening at once without freezing up.
I will keep it installed because I really use the apple CarPlay every day and don�t want a double din unit taking over the dash of my sports car. I�m guessing something better or an improved version of this radio will be available someday soon.
Two days ago I started the 996.2 to take it for a drive after a week of sitting due to bad weather. Heard the whirring sound of low power steering fluid. So I added fluid and after a good drive the sound went away. Wish I recorded it for you guys. Didn't think about it at the time.
Next day I checked the level of power steering fluid as well as for leaks and all was good.
So I started the car and heard a high pitched whine coming from the driver's side next to the engine. Popped the lid and heard my SAI making a little noise. Attached is the recording of the sound for those that have an interest.
While I have refreshed many parts on my car over the past 20 years, I never replaced the SAI. Looks to be about time. Easy enough to do, just looking for the best pricing.
Vimeo
It's definitely an interesting device and thanks for giving us the play-by-play. Have you checked to see if there are any firmware updates for the unit? If not, a lot of times the firmware is out of date by the time it sits in stock and is sold, especially if it's a recently introduced device.
There are single-DIN radios that have pop-out displays when you turn on the radio, but I absolutely hate those. I remember when we ordered our Q5, the best audio option available was a Bang & Olfsen system that had a screen that popped out of the dash when you start the car -- to me it was the most pointless thing ever -- it looks great when it's parked, but then it looked like you had an aftermarket screen tacked on whenever you are in the car
.
I've replaced the SAI once already. I pulled the old one apart, pretty simple, cleaned it, lubricated the bearing and put it back together. I installed it back in the car just to check it out and it worked just like the new one again. I pulled it back off and put it on the shelf as a back up.
The lack of any reputable companies offering something in that form factor, and the Porsche PCCM single DIN unit only having 3.5" screen and no Android Auto, is what pushed me into a headless system. I have a marine BT receiver running thru an RLC (i.e. volume ****) to an equalizer under the passenger seat, and that is hooked up to the factory amp.
One screen is plenty.
Repurposed an extra wiper controller into a volume ****.
I decided to do a brake fluid flush today after putting in new pads last week. I pulled the toolkit from my frunk and discovered that the wheel lock key was not there. Uh-oh. I look around the garage and driveway thinking I might have left it out. Not there. Then a horrible thought occurs to me. What if I left it on one of the wheels when I did the brake job? I've driven the car about 100 miles since then - side roads and highways. I checked the right rear wheel as that was the last wheel I put back on. Believe it or not, the key was still attached to one of the bolts.
I think I will buy new bolts. These are not looking great and I'm tired of dealing with the locks. Another funny thing is when I went to buy lobsters and noticed that one of my credit cards was missing, I went to pick up a bottle of wine at my local liquor store and my card was there, Good day all around.
Thanks brother. I really thought I missed the boat when I realized they hadn�t been available for some time by the time I got the Porsche. Really like the simplicity of the GT3 delete and it�ll be perfect once I get around to installing Yaz�s phone mount. Not Porsche related, currently ceramic coating some new rims for my Touareg T3.
My car has been sitting patiently in the garage while I was oversea's for the last two months.
The only thing I did before I left was put an extra 15lbs of air in the tires, made sure to put the wipers up and popped the frunk in case I experienced a battery failure. That's it. I got back this past Saturday, got up Sunday morning and fired her up. She came alive on the first turn of the key. She stumbled for just a second and then quickly went into a smooth fast idle. My wife, who was watching the exhaust, said everything looked good. The first drive since I put her up was perfect !
Hit a ****ing parking curb that was in the middle of the road at 430am this morning in the rain. Either maliciously placed or it fell off the truck, regardless it ****ed my wheels only going 30-35 mph. Front air lost air immediately, rear wheel actually held air.
Front wheel:
Rear wheel:
Had to put the front wheel on bumper plates so I could get the factory jack underneath.
Donut was low on air�so I had to find a compressor�finally got it on�
Brought it to a wheel guy who said the rear should be able to be fixed no problem and not even be noticeable, the front will have a small visible weld cause it cracked where it folded over. Once repaired should be almost good as new with a little caterpillars�.
Yeah...I can only imagine if I hit it at high speed....it was raining too.
I was reading that people in LA are putting blocks and bricks in the road and when people get out they get mugged....yeah, as soon as it happened, i looked in my rear view, didn't see anything (I noticed it when I was limping back home on a donut after the gym) but that immediately came to mind...so I potentially foiled their plans lol
Similar thing in Philly except they love tap you on the rear at a stop sign/stop light, then get out and proceed to rob your car. Usually people get out of their car because they're the ones that get hit, so it makes it easy for them to jump in and take off - driver gets left standing there. Haven't witnessed it firsthand just read about it. I always leave 5-6 yards of space between me and the car in front when at a light, etc.
Sorry to hear about this, glad you are safe.
It seems like the 996 spare loses air pretty quickly -- mine (admittedly untouched for 20 years) had 3 PSI
when I looked at it. Many on RL have commented about similarly low spares. It's not a bad idea to fill the spare (to rated 60psi) every time you check the pressure in the driving tires. Someone on RL suggested using nitrogen on the spare since it leaks slower.
Costco has free nitrogen refilling stations in their parking lot (meant for members, but you don't need a Costco card to use them).
All this spare tire talk motivated me to look at mine since I've never checked pressure in 5+ years of ownership.
I pumped it up to 70 (or eleven if you're a musician).
The irony is that the rear tire wont fit in the frunk. I keep a extra-large garbage bag in the frunk so if I have to replace the rear tire with the spare I can wrap it and put it in the back seat.
This weekend with mixed feelings of heresy but possessed by the overpowering itch to mess with the car, I rebadged the rear deck to be kind of a "what would they have done" update. I like the way it came out and will most likely not add the 911 or any more below it. Reads differently from various angles so I showed a few POVs. I'm the original owner and the car is a Frankenstein or rebuilds so I'm not that precious about it, just love driving it as much as possible. So that's what I did to my 996 today.
Finally (!) finished a stereo install. Still have a little cleanup to do under the bonnet but the sound is much better and the hands-free calling sounds perfect! Full writeup in build thread coming soon.
(Insert obligatory replies about, "I just listen to the sonorous exhaust... blah, blah, blah.") Yeah, me too, but every once in a while a podcast needs to be listened to. And the missus likes tunes on the longer road trips.)
Not as "factory" as I'd like, but not a bad compromise. Full modern functionality and decent sound (with the new amps, below). Still need to figure out where to run the USB connection cable (black cable on the passenger floorboard).
A little wiring cleanup yet to do, but fully functional. "Sub" runs to the doors. "Main" runs to the dash and rear seat speakers.
Nate HOLY CRAP! I suppose a silver lining is the superior quality of those Volk wheels. I am so impressed they didn't crack or break in any way. Saved your bacon in the long run, I think.
My 2000 C2 came with the Pioneer AVIC-Z120BT and it sounds like crap. I suspect the seller took out the good speakers and other components. I do prefer hearing the sound of the engine and am too cheap to get over to an auto audio shop to fix the damn thing. The owners manual for this is 228 pages and I don't have the time (or interest) to dig in.
Dyed a couple of spots on the passenger seat and replaced the ridiculously complex seatbelt adjusters with the GT3 (cheap, simple, cleaner looking) version. Thank you for the posts that made the swap a 10 minute project! Installed the proper seat rail covers on pax side. It took a total of 20 minutes for both tasks.
So queue KC and the Sunshine Band: “That’s the way…uh huh, uh huh…”
I’ll rejuvenate the seats on a later date. Then, I’ll only have yaz996 and Coopduc’s fantastic enhancements to complete my interior. And I promise this is the last pic of the inside for a good while.
Damn, I didn't know the GT3 adjusters were different, let alone could replace the standard ones. I just bought a replacement passenger adjuster.
Any other parts needed or just pop those on?
Send the standard $100 housing back. The $5 GT3 one-piece clips right in in seconds. Apparently, by 2004, Porsche decided the simple part was good enough for the GT cars. I wonder how long that design had been shelved. Or you can buy my used
997-803-521-00-A03 complete for $25 each, plus ship.
One if the things I discovered is that most aftermarket speakers aren't compatible with the 2-OHM setup from the factory HiFi or Bose amplifiers. The PO of my car had replaced all the speakers and left it at that. The stereo sounded not only weak; it had a bad popping sound from the speakers. Absolutely useless.
Everything I came across indicated that you either have to find 2-OHM speakers, or change the amplifier(s) to run most aftermarket speakers. I chose the latter path and am quite content. I went with two amplifiers (2 channels each) so I could have the front and rear panel speakers as truly "front" and "rear," and am using the doors as the "subwoofer" channel. As I indicated, I'm please with the result. I could add a dedicated sub as well since I have an unused channel, but I'm not enough of an audiophile to warrant that. (Besides, great music AND a great exhaust note? Yes please!)
Installed the amp from the factory
High Performance Audio Kit
. Well, almost installed. I saw that it was two bolts, two screws and two plugs and figured meh, should take 30-40 minutes
.
It took 30-40 minutes just to figure out how to remove these plugs on the amp.
I have the same amp (Haes) and the original speakers (Factory Hi-Fi option) What is the benefit from the High Performance amp and have you changed the speakers?
I cleaned out the radiator, which was super, but I broke one of vent/fin things on the fender liner and now it�s killing me on the inside. What do you guys think? Gaff tape? RTV? Leave it alone and stop sweating it?
Use a good tape and forget about it.
What car is this on? My '02 C2 cab doesn't have this venting. There are tutorials on how to cut these openings, but I would prefer a factory solution. Looking through the parts diagrams, you can't really get to this detail to know you are ordering the right thing.
I used JBweld on a couple parts of the underbody trays, it worked really well. If you do it on the backside, keep it thin, and even paint it black (after cleaning the rest really well, then it's almost unnoticeable.
One of my wheel liners was pretty bad though, so I just replaced it. $120 or so I think?
The last time I used JB weld for plastic it was black. I repaired an auxiliary light mount on my motorcycle and two years later it is still solid. Good stuff.
The general rule of thumb is that, any time you are able to buy an OEM Porsche part for under $4, you just drive straight out and buy yourself a lottery ticket
.
Of course, if that part happens to be a GT3 part, and the lottery amount is like $2 billion, you can go ahead and buy two tickets
.
I paid $4.75 each at Pelican about 5 nanoseconds after hearing about these GT3 clips on RL -- I've never been so happy to overpay for something
Recently got the P0410 check engine light in my 1999 C2, so i followed this DIY ->
996 secondary air injection valve replacement DIY (p-car.com)
, replacing the two SAI valves and the change over valves and poof no more light! I didnt need to remove the throttle body or the intake plenum.
Installed rear Cocomats that match the fronts and deck mat.
When I did fronts I skipped on the rear mats because they're kind of expensive and you can barely see them anyway. Cocomats recently had one of their infrequent sales so I went for it.
Last couple years (at least) they've done an early bird 15% off sale. Meant to share the code but forgot. They followed up with the same discount around Black Friday last year. I'll share that one when/if they send out an email.
Yes, my bad too. I also meant to share the code but I'm crazy busy at work and by the time I remembered, the sale was over. I found out via email from Cocomats (maybe for previous customers only?).
yeah, I'm a previous customer. I'll reach out to them for next time. I had a 356 many years back with coco mats and they really give the 996 a classic look.
I have a grey interior and recently purchased black herringbone Coco mats. Love them and I have had these in previous Porsche's so I know they wear like iron .
Researching deflectors for a while and opted for the one on Amazon. Got one nice long ride in before the weather turned. At $300 all in, very pleased with the purchase. You will notice the difference in wind and noise level. Comparable to what you would experience driving with a sun roof open.
So I finally put together a second set of Carrera IIs. I like the OE color of the wheels, but it’s been my experience most shops do very poorly matching the soft finish of the originals. I’m heavily leaning to race silver for the rehab. Thought about a gunmetal or anthracite, but, nah, bright silver shows off nicely on this color car. Now, I’ll sell my 997 19’s this spring and lose some serious unsprung weight for quicker summer pace.
In my opinion the Carrera IIs are the best looking factory wheel!
My car currently has the Carrera IIs fitted.
I'm down to just 2 sets of wheels, the Carrera IIs and my OZ Allerggeritas.
I haven't seen any other wheels worth adding to the mix, although some do come close if I found a great deal.
Satin Black Wrap, Apex Wheels, GT3 seats, steering wheel, shift **** and short shifter. RUF Sport Springs and Bilstein B8's.
Went with wheels that are 1 inch wider in the front and then went with tire size 255/35/18 because it has the same diameter as the rear wheels.
I replaced my headlight switch awhile back. It simply stopped turning. Replaced with an OE Porsche switch. Not a difficult job. All is well now.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...placement.html
Did it myself super easy job, there's a few youtube videos on it. I bought an OE supplier switch from fcpeuro. Lifetime warranty, fav company to order from and I get parts from them super fast since I live in the same state. The best part is the switch audibly and physically clicks now whenever you're on each setting. Feels premium. Love it.
It hit 45 degrees today and it was very sunny out there, so I figured I'd knock something fairly quick out of the way. Not anything glamorous, just cleaned the rear drains on my cab, then gave her a bath.
Park on a hill just in case? That's how I used to do it with my squareback right there in your 'hood back in the glory days when I worked the Roxy and WHISKEY-A-GO-GO. Sunset strip was more than enough hill to get things fired up at the end of the night. Is that bad in these modern cars? ... Nice shot.
Trying to find parking on Sunset by the Whisky is next to impossible 😊. It'll fire up when hot, just slow to crank. Bery cool you worked there. Love the Whisky a Go Go. Usually there once a month. Was more into the Rainbow than the Roxy but still a great venue. Not what it was back in the 80s but still...
Finally fixed my passenger fog light. Had to pretty much tape up all the wiring, the insulation was cooked and crumbling.
Still looking for a replacement headlight assembly...
I’ve picked up 3 off of eBay over the years.
All three were in decent shape. (Wiring was in good shape)
Most ads show at least part of the wiring.
One turned out to be a Turbo light. (Only the reflector is different)
“Standard” C2 light on left, Turbo light on right.
First two ran me around $250 each.
The last one I bought earlier this year cost me $800.
The mismatched set bothered me.
Now I have two matched sets of headlights.
I gave away the Turbo one here earlier this year in the Pay It Forward thread.
Sorry, all of mine are/were Litronic headlights.
Check eBay.
The halogen units are normally much cheaper than the Litronics.
I setup a search for “Porsche 996 headlight -halogen -switch -bulb -bulbs -cover -covers -washer” >$200 <$600 so I was alerted when deals happened.
You’ll want to change the minus from halogen to Litronic(minus removes any ads with that in the description) and maybe adjust the prices.
If you’re patient, which is a struggle for me, you can nab a great deal.
But you normally have to purchase as soon as you get the notice.
Removed the OEM spacers that seemingly galvanized to the hub when it rolled off the factory floor 20 years ago (a tribulation)
New sebro discs and textar pads (an enjoyable job)
I didn't know that factory spacers came with lugs, but I looked it up on Autoatlanta and the 17-MM Spacers used lug nuts. You learn something new every day.
Put on the hooker boots... er... snow tires.
Vredestein Wintrac Pro on Braid 17" wheels. No problem clearing the rotors and calipers on the C4s.
Winter's coming.
Not today, but over the past week I replaced the four O2 sensors. Then I got a misfire on cylinder 5 and since the car has 110K miles on it and I didn't have the best of luck getting a full service history I replaced all six coil packs and plugs.
Runs like a dream again.
Changed to my all-seasons. After I did so and went for a test hop, I heard a rhythmic light scraping sound from right rear. After literally peeling the onion layers away troubleshooting, found one of the parking brake retaining springs broken and the shoe leaning at an angle. Hmmm.
Nothing else wrong, so I dial the dealer and they don�t have the part. Called Pelican, thinking west coast might be able to overnight the sucker. As usual, the Pelican parts folks were super helpful and got the part out ASAP. Less than 24 hours after finding the broken spring, the new spring was installed and car ready to go. Call John at x260 if you need stuff done. Some things at Pelican may not�ve changed for the better, but I�ve never found fault with the customer service.
I just wish they�d fix the website �update� from not too long ago. The old one worked great, but new ownership probably needed to put their DNA on it.
replaced my ignition coils and spark plugs.
couldn't get my ape fingers in there without taking the mufflers off. So took the mufflers off.
is it bad to run these cars without the mufflers? kinda curious to start the thing up like this.
I took the mufflers off of mine and have been running it like a hooligan for the last two years. Although about 3 months ago I got a check engine light for a "faulty" O2 sensor....
I wouldn't do it long term without the muffler deletes so your exhaust exits the rear of the car correctly.
But for a quick romp around the block, go ahead and go for it.
Fresh oil and filer change. Ran a 20oz can of SeaFoam through a nearly empty tank as hard as I could. Then topped it off with fuel for it's winter nap.
removed the interior, vacuumed the carpets, dropped in a new center console from Rose Passion and a center console lid from exclusive option. resurfaced the ash tray and the e-brake cover and lexol'd the leather bits. got the seats back to "supple" leather. very rewarding. feels like new again. the only scratches left in my interior are on the e-brake itself which I may have to do something about now...
Today I looked at pictures of my engine.
The pictures were taken last week, but I just had to look at them again.
I'll just post a few out of 130 pictures from last week.
In no particular order:
Flat 6 Innovations developed the coils for their R series engines.
They are only available through F6I.
Perhaps LN Engineering will begin selling them separately.
Tex,
Good to see you active on RL again. I know you have been quietly waiting for the rebuild. Bet you are fired up about the engine. I know I am fired up for you! Looks great! Hope you do a thread on it.
Thanks, 3 surgeries and cancer treatments are behind me so I'm now ready for my 996 to come home so I can drive it again.
I have driven only a handful of times this year and when I did it was a minivan or a RAV4.
The minivan actually felt fast when I drove it for the first time in months a week ago.
The difference between it and my 996 is going to be huge!
There are several F6I build threads which quietly die out once the car gets home.(New F6I owners seem to spend their time driving, hmm...)
My plan was to start a thread to take y'all along on the journey after getting the car back.
I may also video some of the drives.
I'll just have to either figure out how to get the videos off the GoPros and Dashcam and onto Youtube, or get one of my kids to be my editor and just spend my days driving, cleaning, and wrenching.
I have some new toys (New dashcam, oil temp gauge, new phone mount, GT3 Cup lower control arms, new set of Pilot Sport 4S tires) for the car and want to do some suspension tinkering.
I also want to do some minor body mods.
My plan is to drive my car ~25 miles every morning before work and likely around the same amount in the evening.
Glad to hear the surgeries and treatments are behind you. Hope you heal up quickly. Looks like you have a busy agenda going forward with the car. Very much looking forward to reading and watching whatever you release.
I hear you on the videos and equipment. I have had 2 Go-pros over the past 15 years and have used them only 2x. Unfortunately the first one was stolen out of my car in my driveway with great footage with my buddies and I at Blackhawk Farms Raceway ripping it up, and then i never had the patience to set it up the 2nd one until earlier this year. Imho, i love what technology can do but its a pain in the *** to get it working.
Keep pushing forward. Appreciate all your contributions.
I noticed you were MIA and glad to have you back !!!
I and a few others have found the 996 to be a great rehab assistant after health problems, yours will be an exceptional assistant in your rehab , highly recommended !!
Health is precious - glad yours is on its way back! A solid drive is such a great form of therapy and gas is still cheaper than a therapy session! When we had more daylight I'd do up to a 70 mile loop after work sometimes.
Installed all new suspension arms and outer tie rods, plus Ohlins R&T coilovers and then dropped it off at my indy for the UAOS install, new semi-solid motor mounts and a new oil filler tube. Big day for the little 911.
After my motorcycle misadventure in 2021, my main goal was to recuperate from surgery, ride a motorcycle again and drive my C4S. Rehab people were skeptical I’d ever do it, being a manual car. That was enough incentive for me to prove them wrong!
Enjoy that drive!
Last night, installed Eibach swaybars front and rear, strictly for a bit more roll stiffness. Was able to accomplish with jack stands, but my 75 year old body is not happy under the car for extended periods. Will try out today. Still have stock springs for needed ride height here in the mountains, Bilstein B4's installed just prior to my purchase so they will stay for a while. Will shift to B6's at some point. As my first 911, I've had a lot of enjoyment from this car, definitely different from the 981 Boxster that shares the garage.
Paid the gods who administer the Porsche tax:
oil change / annual service / check. Not a spec of anything on the magnetic drain plug.
left front wheel bearing + tightening front suspension
driver's side window regulator, both sides new door latches (ouch, a lot $). But now all door locks work, windows, alarm, etc.
and just general inspection, etc.
Feels great and solid, I was starting to loose confidence in the car now at 111K miles, but they pronounced it one of the better 996s among all that they see.
I mentioned your post to my wife and she said it sounds like me in 20 years.
I hope I'm still working on my own car when I'm 75.
Although it can be tiring, I find it very therapeutic as well.
Took the car out for a 20 mile ride with some medium speed curves. Change in roll stiffness is significant while maintaining good ride over uneven surfaces. I can see that more care will be required closer to limits. Car feels "planted" but might give less warning. Definitely an improvement. Bilstein B6's will be a good match in the long run. The current B4's have about 5k on them, so are still firm.
Got the bars on a Tire Rack sale for about $425, so a cheap upgrade.
Having worked flat-rate made me more conscious about the tools I have within reach for the job, especially those I keep on my rolling cart.
I try to have every tool I'll need when I start the job.
I'm don't always have what I need but that's OK since I no longer work flat-rate and the only thing I'm saving is my own time now.
Unfortunately my QuickJack still requires some crawling underneath, but at least I can use a creeper.
That's a very good observation on your part. I'm always cautious of making the car too stiff, planted, flat, whatever you want to call it. I want the car to tell me what it is about to do rather than surprise me and cause a code brown. I remember a seeing a video some time ago where Chris Harris talked about how many cars today ride stiffer than some of the race cars he's been in!
Thanks. As a long ago racer of old school Formula Fords that had actual suspension travel, I've played with roll stiffness. The reality is that I am changing the mix of suspension settings that Porsche engineers would have said is optimum.
I agree about overly stiff suspensions on the street, around here mostly in "boy racers". My 981 Boxster S has X73 which is slightly stiffer, slightly lower, and well integrated. Its as close to a track suspension as I would want (and my wife would tolerate) for our roads. I'm trying to " sneak up" on that combination in the 996, maybe without the ride height change. Hoping that stock springs and ultimately B6's will get close.
I installed the eibach bars and new drop links on my C2 and wow, what a difference in how responsive the car is on turn in, and I also noticed a much more taut feel through the wheel when pushing a bit in all corners. I was going to go the lowering springs route as well, but roads here are sketch so I'll stick with stock ride height on 17s. Anyway, very happy with the anti sway bars. They're much heavier of course, I can't believe how flimsy the oem were, especially the rear.
I just set the rear bar in the middle of the three options for stiffness. Might try the others but it seems to tighten up the rear just a bit, enough to get the car rotated. I don't track the car, yet, so I've no idea what she's like at the limit, and I'm certainly not going to find out on public roads.
Purchased the UOAS Elite for a 99c2. Not excited to tackle this project again. But, am excited to have a proven permanent solution with easily accessible components. Goodbye wet intake.
Funny how the little things make a big difference in handling. Enjoy setting it up. There is a "go cart" feel to the 996 driving around town when you nail the set up. Even better on the track.
Wasn't today, but last week my indie changed my motor and gearbox mounts. The bushing in the gearbox just fell out after removal (he kept it to show me). Motor mounts were definitely worn. Now every weird buzz, rattle, and vibration is gone. It's like a huge breath of new life in a 996.2 w/ 93k on the clock.
Big week for the little 996. Got all new stock suspension arms, a set of Ohlins Road & Track coilovers, an alignment, a UAOS, semi-solid mounts, a new oil filler tube, a new back-up light switch, new trunk latch and cover panel and finally an oil change. Next up, black foam repair and PCCM+
I didn't do all the work, just most of it, but damn. I need a holiday break with a lot of driving now.
First time attempting to upload photos to the forum. Let's see if this works....
Finally got my rebuilt long block delivered! Car has been on jack stands since May. Just swapped over all the ancillaries and engine/transmission are going back in the car this weekend. Looking to fire it up on Christmas!
Jagtem - Very nice! Dog looks a bit suspicious, but eagerly anticipating your dog treat contributions to the swear jar while you�re putting everything back together. Looking forward to your successful installation exploits!
Going past Olympia Supply, that is a pretty good grade to climb. We have almost 1/2" of ice at our place south of Shelton. The 996 is snug inside the garage. The boat is not so snug.
Yesterday I ordered a GT3Tek rear bumper diffuser for my 99 C4 . I have the same one on my Boxster S . Yes it's just for looks but I like the way it looks 😁
Played 9 holes and then put on my Santa hat and drove up the coast to Encinitas, Leucadia and Carlsbad to deliver Christmas presents. 🎅
I was hoping it would be overcast this weekend because I wanted to clay bar and wash/wax the car. Mother Nature isn't cooperating though.
Just a basic 3.4L. Just couldn't justify spending the extra coin, considering the engine rebuild has cost more than what I spent buying the car!
Lol. Thanks. I've actually been really pleased with how smoothly everything has gone so far. Car really hasn't been fighting me too much, other than snapping every single exhaust manifold bolt during disassembly.
Well, I am traveling a bit further down that slippery slope. A Christmas present FOR my 996. I just picked up a track tire trailer as I just signed up for a late January track day at RR. Now I just have to figure out what kind of hitch to use! Any suggestions?
Nice trailer!
That would be perfect for the track or drag & drive.
(I’m considering building a drag & drive car next)
There is a thread (at least a couple of years old) where someone made a hidden hitch.
Replaced turn signal assembly for second time (first replacement lasted 3 years). This time got 3-stalk version (4th stalk directly swaps from old assembly) so saved money, and from FCP Euro lifetime warranty. This thread has many tips how to do it:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...alk-issue.html
If you know a tool or technique to release these connectors please let me know. I put a little screwdriver in there but it leaves marks.
Here you go :
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...oject-diy.html
There used to be a kit available from SportTows, but they seem to not be offering them any more:
https://www.sporttows.com
Maybe you can reach out and get a template to fabricate your own.
Willwood used to make a kit as well. Sometimes listed in the want ads.
I just completed a full suspension refresh from FCP on my 172k mile Vesuvio including PSS10s and Tarett camber plates. I�m excited to feel the difference.
I�ve swapped out some coolant hoses, and 5 of 6 spark plug tubes. Fortunately cylinder 4 was not leaking and can wait until I swap out the mufflers.
I hate to be the one to dampen your spirits, but perhaps we should rebound and get back on topic.
Today I learned that the replacement 3 way coolant hose for the AOS/return shown below doesn�t fit. The middle and lower outlets are too long and end up pushing the hose against the block in the middle, and kinking it at the lower
Cleaned up the lower engine a little with a small nylon brush, shop rags, some old cardboard boxes, a spray bottle of water and spray bottle of LA�s Totally Awesome. I am impressed! That stuff really is good at breaking down the grease and grime. The example before/afters were taken 20 minutes apart. Not perfect, but no longer unsightly. Some oil spots on the concrete floor soaked for 10 minutes and washed out about to a 7 of 10.
I finally made time to reorganize the garage so that the 996 in alongside the paperweight 951. Now I�ll have one less excuse to not get little projects done this winter.
@mdsarch
Just noticed in your post you are attending a track day at Roebling Road end of January. What club is running the event and what is the date of the event. I just moved to Beaufort, SC from New Hampshire and would like to sign up for that event if any slots are still open.
Jack
The ducktail is from RPMTechnik, like Chunks. I do not have the vented model like him, but the profiles are identical and he has much better pictures. But here are a few from the summer. Left the top vents unpainted to show off the carbon.
Replaced the passenger side rearview mirror. Noticed that it wasn't steady on one drive. Next time I'm backing up there's no mirror on the plastic base! Easy replacement. The mirror base snaps onto the plastic circle in the housing. Was careful to not stress the defrost wires at the back. Got them reconnected and the mirror snapped back in place. Also got to swap out the cabin filter...Coupled with the long way into the office today, this morning is really shaping up!
I had the same issue on the mirror. First time my mechanic just snapped it back in. As I�m frequently going super sonic (triple digits) it started moving again. Anyway solution is to use epoxy. He was knowledgeable on it as has done quite a few times with other cars. So far epoxy is holding great.
I originally installed the fronts without the spacers. Well, based on how these are designed, the spacers are your range of adjustment. You can add more spacers to the assembly to add more ride height, but I am good now that I have added them back in. I am 3/8” up from the lowest setting in the front. That put me at 25.5” from ground to fender lip. That’s measuring at the center cap of the wheel. The rear is currently at 25.25” ground to fender lip.
I tried to do the measure points for the GT3 track settings on the subframes, and frankly the car would have looked right. The front setting looked right, but the rear would have been too tall based on the way I was doing it. Those specs were telling me 115mm front at the middle bolt on the front brackets, and 128mm at the hole on the rear subframe. Again, those didn’t see right based on the way I was doing it. I decided to just go with the fender lips as I have always done with my other cars.
This makes a ton of sense now. I am sure my car is also due for some new body mounts since they are probably original to the car. I knew something didn't seem right.
Got a question for everyone. I recently removed my front tire and everything from the frunk of the car. I still have that threaded post and bracket where the tire screws down into. How do I go about removing that thing from the frunk? Do you have to remove the carpet in the frunk just to remove that bracket and post?
I got it out. I kept trying to go up with it thinking that made sense. Then I noticed that the carpet has a slot to the left of the bolt. I was able to slide the post to the left, and it took a little jiggling to get it out of the carpet properly. 🤣 Stupid little things on cars that seem so easy, but took me a couple tries to figure out.
Did you install the 997 OEM shifter or the 997 sport shifter? When I bought my '04 996 last year, it was equipped with a 997 Porsche short shift kit. Although the throws are short, it is stiff and notchy. This was expensive for the previous owner (>$1000 with install), but is not a positIve. Hoping it will loosen up a bit over time.
Hello from Raleigh - Interested to see how this one turns out for you. I was so on the fence about this or the function first rebuild. Still considering the 997 sport throw but that's way down the list now.
Same, the FF kit feels pretty dang good too!
Had an awesome day yesterday at the cars and coffee Katy Texas Freddy�s cafe actually 5 996s, a lot of times is just me. Two coupes 4s, a cabrio, a gt3 and mine. Anyway when I went home I decided to look the car over, coolant oil, etc. Then, I used the cerakote kit on the headlights, pretty good results. Previously I was using the meguiars product but the cerakote kit is way better. I�ll see now how long it last. Then I did the front seats with the leatherique kit my wife got me for Christmas. Look pretty good yesterday, I may apply some more leather rejuvinator today. Finally last night we had a club dinner at Maggianos great food and more friends. Our region Lone star is extremely active, so these events can be awesome as the last two have been.
Walmart had it at $11.99 which is a great price. I bought two kits.
Three step process
Leatherique is just an awesome product
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Yes, soon it will.
It passed the TX Safety & Emissions test yesterday.
I registered it first thing this morning, so now it's legal to drive on the street in TX.
Next I'm changing it's insurance to Haggerty.
Mainly because I can declare the value I believe it is worth, and second because of the "cherished salvage" option.
Even if the car is totaled I'm guaranteed a buy-back and could put the FSI Stage 2 engine in another 996.
The insurance will cost more, a LOT more, but I believe it is worth it...to me.
Hmm, hadn't heard about that option. I'll have to look into it. My Hagerty coverage in general has been quite a bit less than it would have been through our normal insurer, Erie.
Non-declared value from State Farm: $542 per year
$55K declared value + Cherished Salvage from Hagerty: ~$2K
Obviously I knew my rate would go up since I declared such a high value.
I can justify the value with the brand new engine.
I just submitted my application with Hagerty, so we'll see what happens in underwriting.
Hey Squirrel I believe Porsche insurance is available in Texas . Might want to check them out . I have their insurance on both of my Porsche's . Agreed value and they only allow OEM Porsche parts for repairs .
My 997.2 FSI with $80k declared value and my 996.2 4s with $50k declared value cost me approx. $1,500/yr total with Hagerty, and that's in NJ with stupid high insurance rates.
$1500 is about what I was quoted for my 996.2 until I was in the application and it asked if I wanted to increase my injury/personal property coverage to what I currently have under State Farm.
My State Farm injury/personal property coverage was increased due to having an umbrella.
I want to make certain I don't jeopardize the umbrella coverage.
I'll go with this for now and maybe re-look at it in 6 months.
The "cherished salvage" means they pay out for my 996 AND I get to keep it.
Plus I declared it as my daily driver.
I heard of people losing their vehicles to Hurricane Harvey flooding and not being given the choice of a buy-back.
And they didn't boot you? I thought one of the criteria was that you have another vehicle to use as your daily.
I upped my mileage on the 996 to 7K/year because of how much I drive it, that did raise the rate.
Funny - I'm with Hagerty and there are no milage limits and they never asked about other DD's. Might be state laws. I put < 1K miles per year but they have never asked.
Well, I put that I drive ~4000 miles per year, but the quote says unlimited mileage.
That's been accurate the last couple of years, but I plan to drive more now.
I also put that I don't have a daily driver, even though I actually do, but I plan to sell it so I left it off.
Since I work from home 4 days per week and whenever I go anywhere with my wife and/or family we take a different vehicle, the 996 does not get driven as much as it did pre-COVID.
Back then I was driving ~1000 miles per month.
Now I'll be commuting 52 miles per week.
But I expect to drive my 996 MUCH more than that per week.
Also I have an under 23 year old son on my insurance, even though he won't be driving my car.
Luckily everyone in my family has a clear record.
Not all of us Texans drive "
supersonic!
"
My rates might also be higher because I'm near Houston.
Lots of crazy traffic(Some driving supersonic) and millions of cars were totaled in 2017 alone due to 2 flooding events.
I finally found and fixed the water leak I�ve been chasing for an embarrassing length of time. Looked all around and originally had looked in the area where the tube attaches to the firewall behind the master fuse panel and decided all was well there. Examined every other place that might allow water ingress to left side.
Well�the first place I looked a while ago was the culprit. The sunroof drain tube was actually resting on the rubber plug that goes thru the firewall. I snaked a bike shifter wire thru the sunroof drain and it popped out the bottom of the tube (green arrow). I took some long hose pliers and wriggled the tube back into the rubber drain housing (orange arrow).
So as I previously posted, I got a track tire trailer and was in search of a hitch. I wanted something that didn�t modify the bumper cover and was easily removable while at the track. The item I purchased uses the center tow hook as well as the two bumper mounts. Installs in about 10 minutes!
I don't have a trailer yet, but I did pick this up so I'm ready if/when I do get one:
I'm thinking about picking up a used second bumper to modify for using it.
If I find a good price on a bumper I might just buy it.
I first have to make sure the original unmodified bumper would still fit if the receiver is mounted, otherwise I will just have to get over cutting into my "perfect" bumper.
Had two FOBS programed at the dealer this morning. After hearing how bad a lot of the dealers are, I was really surprised at my experience. Admittedly, it was for a small thing, but I was in and out of that dealer within 55 minutes and the service advisor was really nice.
So, $150 for programming the two new FOBS (at Porsche in Warwick RI), two new Key FOBS for $160 each (were on sale at SUNCOAST) and two cut key blades for $50, shipped (Keys in the Post). $520 for two full up, programmed new keys. Certainly not a deal of the century, but it is what it is.
Also, while I was there, I saw a 4S Cab, MASS plates, that was pretty trashed. Dealer has been asked to do some work on it, but that car was not looking good.......at all. Shame.
I have all the service done on my 911 and my wife's Boxster done at Porsche Warwick. We have been very happy with the service and support. Very knowledgeable and easy to work with.
@zbomb
I prefer 200 treadwear tires. They pair nicely with my ohlins. Tried many and sometimes comes down to availability as I run 235/315. I am currently running on
AZENIS RT660.
I�ve been wondering if a bumperette delete and relocating the tow hook to the European location would allow me to install the tow hook and connect chains there.
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Out with the old and in with the new. What could possibly go wrong?
Last O2 sensor to remove, stripped threads.
4 new O2 sensors later...
Now the problem is how to quantify the improvement... without spending any money. My less that quantitative butt dyno is really happy.
Yes, this is one of those slippery slope decisions. But with how well this engine spins up, I wanted to see what would happen if I opened up the bottom end. I figured that I have the car in the air enough that this job every other year wouldn't be too terrible. It's also possible we'll be leaving the state in a year or two...
What brand were the previous cats? That's a funky location for the O2 sensor right on top of the cat element - haven't seen it before like that. Usually upstream and downstream locations are on either end of the actual cat element.
The old cats were Magna Flow. The only CARB approved aftermarket cat I could find. Agreed that it's weird. Seems like it would interrupt the cat elements. But, it didn't throw codes, showed the computer that the cat was working.
Well, if it weren't for hearing loss from early life, I blame The Who, King Crimson, Jethro Tull, Genesis, Smithereens, Adrian Belew, and many others, (oh! I'm still blathering on...) I could tell you. It has a really nice grumble now. I have stock mufflers, so it's not grossly louder. I didn't have it out very long yesterday after finishing the install. I expect today I'll find how exotic it has become. I failed taking an audio clip with the original cats. It was mostly noise on the phone. How do people do this? Just with the phone? Maybe I need a new phone.
I am finding as I get older, I'm also getting grumpier about changing the exhaust every two years.
When is the last time you had the butt dyno calibrated?
Adrian Belew? That's a name I haven't heard in awhile. In fact, you didn't hear that name much even back when he was in his prime.
I was just transitioning from vinyl to CDs in that era.
OK! A little more on how it sounds: The stock mufflers keep it pretty quiet overall, but there is significantly more MWAAA when you open the throttle. Kind of like the big old V8's used to have. It does have a better rumble which really gets going at higher RPM's. But the best part is how much more responsive it is. I'm sure if I had the Butt Dyno that SoCal was showing it would be quite significant! Everybody needs an X-pipe!
I hear you on the getting grumpier bit. This is why people have gardeners and cleaners. I don't yet have a mechanic.
I went to see Adrian Belew and the Bears in Boston and couldn't hear for day and half. I still have all my vinyl. Never play it. Turntable's not even set up. Maybe another thing to get grumpy about, downsizing.
I hear you on the downsizing. My plan had always been to work until I was least 65 but during Covid, I did a lot of soul searching and after talking to my financial guy, I am retired as of a couple of weeks ago. At this point, I know I'm leaving San Diego but don't know where I'm going to end up.
While I'm figuring this out, I'm going to try and get rid of as much unnecessary crap as I can
.
As far as vinyl and turntables, I too still have all my records (and three turntables). Only one is hooked up and I haven't used it in an embarrassingly long time.
Replaced the engine compartment blower fan. Bearings were giving out on the old unit and it was giving off a high pitched whine. 996 part was superseded by 997-624-046-01.
Part number is shared across most 996 and 997.1 platforms.
Started up, fan came on, and high pitched whine was gone.
New fan on the left, old fan on the right.
Today I drove mine to run an errand.
I left at 8am and arrived at 8:30 and found out the place didn't open until 9am. (Google hours were wrong
)
Normally I would grumble to myself and sit in my 996 waiting for the place to open.
Not today!
I jumped back in my 996 and enjoyed a freeway with light traffic and went on a 30 minute spirited drive.
Then I took the long way home.
It was a fun Friday morning.
I live in San Antonio and after coming home on a hot day it usually comes on for a little bit. It's so hot here I usually lift the engine lid when I get home, that helps it a lot!
Got new tires and an alignment yesterday. Very impressed with this shop, they had me sit in the car during the alignment to make sure it was set right for my weight!
I went from 285's in the rear to 295's, I like the look much better, will give a review on my new Pilot Sport 4S's after a few weeks.
I've been leaking about one psi a day from my drivers side rear tire for a few months. I took it to Discount Tire and they said they found a slow leak in the tire and patched it, still leaked afterwards. While doing the tire swap yesterday here's what they found, a cracked rim!!! Goobers at Discount Tire didn't notice? ???? Anywho, I have another new wheel on order from Porsche, $1200'ish. I've made a claim with USAA, let's see what they pay.
Before, with the 285's...
After, with the 295's...
Really? Discount Tire couldn't see this???
Showing the clearance with the 295's...
What a beautiful day for driving.
Since the family stayed home because they didn't feel well, I took the long way to and from church.
Planning on doing some more driving this evening.
I'm 293 miles away from my first 1000 mile oil change.
Keeping the revs (mostly) below 5K until then.
Weather forecast looks nice this coming week.
Hoping to get a lot more driving in!
After finally buttoning up the UAOS install and letting her idle up to temperature for many minutes to check for leaks (none yet! , I took her to the car wash for a much-needed bath. Still loads of snowmelt on the roads so the bath didn't last long. Just that time of year.
Popular idea in the foothills today.
She looked this good for about three blocks.
After laboring over the UAOS install intermittently for a month, I got the car fired up, took her for a bath (previous post), and took her for a spin. Realized way too late that I should've had the battery on a tender. Car was idle for a month and it frankly just skipped my mind.
Somewhere around 6:30 PM near Morrison, all warning lights and errors start popping and I'm losing power. Ended up towed to a local indy for diagnostics but 99% sure I just killed the battery. I had to be wheels up again today and with all the UAOS install time, I wasn't willing to tow it home and diagnose there. Hopefully she'll be done by the time I get home.
A bad battery should not do that.
The alternator should keep everything running and you should not notice much until you shut off the engine and try to restart it.
Hopefully it's an easy fix.
I went for a 40 mile drive this morning before work.
Drove past the power plant and saw a bunch of deer.
As I drove by I think I head the doe exclaim to the buck, “isn’t that a flat-six?!”
Went for my first drive in the car (wow), found out my cheap clear side markers from Amazon don't quite fit.
I'm definitely gonna have to track down a function first console riser- if anyone has any leads, I'd appreciate it.
Quick Google search found these:
https://www.rennline.com/shifter-riser-7in-sku-i30/
https://flat6motorsports.com/product...ase-risers-996
These will raise just the shifter, not the entire console like FF.
I appreciate it but I'm looking to keep my interior, lol. In fact, I was hoping to be able to install a double DIN like the new PCCM while relocating my AC controls into the FF riser.
I'll probably just go with the GT3 center console delete for now and hope one turns up.
Definitely NOT photoshopped!
...and Yes, it is my 996.
...but no, it was not on a public road when I took the picture.
...it was taken in my garage.
It's from my Snap-on Ethos Pro Instrument Panel Pointer test.
Here's one I just ran and videoed for you:
You Tube
Ha!
Not quite.
The factory gearing in the G96.01 prevents that high of a speed.
But theoretically with enough HP to overcome drag from the wing, and running the size tires I have, and with a long enough distance, I could hit 192mph in 6th gear at 7200rpm.
But with a 3.00 ring & pinion available from Albins, and enough HP, and even more distance, I could hit 219.
Anyone "re-chipped" their 911? Let me know since I'm intrigued but would like your thoughts. Scam?? If I can get 40 or 60 more HP with a plug-and-play chip, why not?
Here's the link to the chip your car site. Seems legit. Dunno.
https://www.chipyourcar.com/product/...BoCJl0QAvD_BwE
There's standard +20HP Midgrade + 40HP and Premium +60HP. Check the site. It is available for my 2004 911 40th Jahre. Here's some of what they have to say:
"Porsche Performance Chips are best in class horsepower, torque and fuel economy gains. A 60 second plug-n-play install is all it takes to increase the performance and mileage of your vehicle. Performance is improved by dyno tuning your Porsche, creating a more efficient fuel map changing air/fuel mixtures. The tuning improves the timing and boost pressure (if your engine applies), all while maintaining the vehicle warranty. The performance chip easily unplugs for emission testing and diagnostic work. No modifications are required for your performance chip to work on your vehicle."
We had a guy on RL about 2 years ago that did this. In spite of many of us telling him not to do it and go with a company that knows what they are doing, he went the cheap route. Last I remember, he had major problems and was trying to fix it. He then went dark.
If you want reputable software that works and won't destroy your car you will need to spend about $1k. But ask yourself this question, "what do you want the software to do?"
Unless you have a turbo, you will be lucky to gain 10 hp/tq. Not 40 or 50.
Many guys here can make suggestion.
serpentine belt or a pulley is my guess but it could be a one of a few things. check the belt for tension and wear. shouldn't be loose or sloppy.
belt $56 labor $83 just had it done by Indy.
My MOMO steering wheel, Function First shift ****, and 997 GT3 shifter are three of my favorite mods.
The improved connection to the driving experience is priceless.
Yes, completely agree. The MOMO **** is my next interior plus two corbeau's.
The install was a touch confusing, but once finished seemed simple. The MOMO adapter is solid, and they updated the adapter to include the horn wiring. Issue is simply the cable routing now for snapping potential. We'll see. As for airbag, already have the light on due to passenger belt, plan to fix that then add the 3ohm resister to the airbag wiring.
I will add that at almost 6'2", the smaller 350mm wheel is slightly blocking the crucial RPM's around the 4k mark. I may have to drop my seat height to adjust for that. Not the end of the world, but annoying nonetheless.
At 5'7" it's partially blocked for me, but not enough that I can't see when I'm running 3k-5k.
4K is just another number.
They don't get important until well past 6K.
yes it�s a lot of bs. I did apr tuning in my 99 and it works good. I would say it�s good for maybe 10 hp, when you add headers exhaust, throttle body ipd plenum and get a Carrera S 3.8 litter airbox with a kN panel everything adds up.
water pump/thermostat/idler/tensioner pulleys/serpentine belt/coolant expansion tank and fresh coolant in the 996.
fluids/filters/brakes/plugs/coils for the 997
Does anyone know when Porsche moved to metal pulleys? My 2004 has what looks like all metal pulleys, which I imagine are more dependable and wont break up on you over time.
Not sure. The ones I removed from mine looked like yours I'd assume they're original from my '04. I was surprised and a little concerned at first the ones that came with the Continental belt kit are so different.
The ones on mine have the P logo so they're the OEM ones for sure. I suppose they won't break up but the bearing it spins on could seize. I might pull them and see if the bearing seals can be accessed so I can service the bearing itself.
problem is you buy one, it�s prettier then the one on the same side so you get two, then you hate that they don�t all match and end up getting all four.
Drove it on 2hrs of errands, including through the Starbucks drive-through to see my daughter, and then washed it.
Tomorrow will be the day for sorting out the passenger window micro switch.
One of mine did break up. The outside casing somehow broke up. The belt became loose and was torn up. My indy tech saw it and replaced it with a pulley pulled from another bench engine. had the belt broken, the engine would have seized up. Luckily it was only a $150. repair. Had my tech not caught it I would have had a blown engine if the belt broke.
Always good to replace belts and check the pulleys during regular maintenance. We tend to not think about it.
Installed some GT3 coilovers that were given to me by a friend. He was also kinda enough to set me up with some 18x9/11 Forgeline GA3Rs and 245/40 & 315/30 Nitto NT01s. The my front lip is still lower than my UIDS so I guess my front lip just became my new depth gauge. Lol!
Just got her back from Robert Rodriguez at IMS Werks. Great guy, very professional and knowledgeable. The car feels completely transformed. The engine, clutch, and ride are all much smoother.
LNE IMS Solution, RMS, Clutch
AOS
Coolant Expansion Tank
Ignition coils, spark plugs and tubes
Camshaft timing chains and guides/pads
Feal 441+ coilovers
Front control arms, end links, inner/outer tie rods
This is a great look and your friend is a G! I suppose you have the back protection block installed on the UIDS? I used mine a few times and can attest that is works
I definitely have it installed. I noticed it was scrapped when I had the car on the lift. I might have to email Skip to see if I can buy spares. I'm glad its on there.
Fyi, your engine wont seize up if u loose a belt? It can overheat if u ignore the warning light from no water pump but usually u will notice the lack of power steering and shut the car down.
Installed LasFit LED�s in every bulb on my car. Very impressed with the quality of their bulbs over other manufacturers. They were more money but so far I have never had a failure with one of them. Many of the cheaper brands fail usually after a year or two. I also finally got my new rear barrels for my Fikse Profile 5S�s. The rear end fitment is spot on now and they look super fat. My tires came in from Phil�s, so new everything is going off for refinishing and mounting.
The trend is def for coilovers, lowered and modern alloys. I do think the C2 especially lends itself to the aerokit gt3 look. My budget won't allow such extravagance😜. So I stick with the stock B4s and 17s. It's the peewee Hermann of 996s.
That sounds about right. My local Porsche center detailing shop quoted 2300 to respray the front and do a bunch of PDR. He also said he would try and fix the hood and bumper alignment, both are slightly askew due to an accident in 2008. He mentioned that a shim on the driver's side fender to raise it a smidge. Trucks of the trade I suppose. I'm planning on getting the work done next year, focused on mechanical right now. I'm slowly, but surely getting this car back to a full service history. When I die whoever gets the car will get a binder or two of receipts and work orders etc, as well as a sweet 911.
I'm not trying to be critical at all, but I have to admit I really don't get the negative camber look. Is there a functional benefit? It seems like the tires would wear out in about 15 minutes
For whatever reason our cars tolerate 2-3* of camber on the street pretty well. My car is over 3* for the track so that is most of the reason why u would do it.
They're 18x9 ET 45 and 18x11 ET 63
There is nothing wrong with a stock 996. They're awesome street cars as is. I enjoyed my car in stock trim but I can never leave well enough alone.
De Jeeper hit the nail on the head. My intent is to track it. A set of Nitto NT01s should last me well over a year under regular driving conditions and track use.
I'll be sure to post future updates here as I continue going down the track prep rabbit hole.
Toe kills tires at a significant higher rate than camber under normal driving conditions.
On the track, without camber numbers that make most people do a double take, you toast the outside tread.
As a data point on the camber topic, I got about 22ish thousand miles out of my rear tires with a -1.5 degrees of camber. Getting it closer to -1 degrees requires adjustable toe arms, which zbomb suggested. Depending on how much you drive and the type of driving you do running -2 degrees can work pretty well. If you're tracking the car a lot, you're more likely to wear out the tires from track abuse than negative camber.
Wait, would you clarify please? How much camber can be achieved on a lowered car without adjustable toe links? This seems to imply that the least you could get was minus 1.5� and minus 1 degree was out of reach, I assume that was with stock links. Does that mean you could get two degrees or more with stock links? I was under the impression it was the other way around.
Sorry if I wasn't clear. I'm not an alignment expert and can only speak to my car and my set up / experience. My car is lowered to about GT3 spec. Maybe a tad lower. During my alignment my tech showed me that with my current set up (all stock arms) we were maxed out at about -1.5 degrees of camber without running into issues with toe. He said he had no more room to go with toe and adjustable arms would be needed. So it sounds like -2 degrees could be achievable as long as there is ample amount of toe adjustment. I imaging a lot of this is impacted by ride height.
I have no horse in this race, however, I don't see how you can run city streets, gutters and parking lots with cars lowered this much. Maybe if only for track use and then loaded on a trailer? I know in my neck of the woods I could never get away with it. I'm at stock height and even then sometimes the parking lot speed bumps are a killer. I slow way down and ease over them.
How much is "this much" that you're referring to? In my case I am at RoW M030 ride height, in other words a factory ride height but probably the lowest for a non-GT. I just barely get my rear toe in spec with stock pieces and really need adjustable toe arms to get it dialed in correctly.
I generally don't drive my "fun" cars places that I haven't been before. I know, super impractical right? Knowing what obstacles lie ahead will determine what I leave the house in. If I can't plan ahead, it's still not impossible. Driving a car this low just requires more effort. It's amazing to me how well my lowered car driving skills has translated to off road driving since driving a low car is basically the equivalent of urban rock crawling
Just as a data point, I am at GT-2 height with stock arms and running a GT-2 alignment. With -1.1 front and -1.8 rear. I believe I am maxed out before I need to start changing to adjustable arms to correct any issues. FYI.
But... Have to ask. I installed grills on my C2 but doing that the temps def a bit higher during summer than I would like. Somewhere here on RL I'm sure I read that the grills stop circulation to the rads enough to warrant concern. So I took them off. Now in cooler weather I could def put them on again I think. Thoughts?
I have them on year round no real effect but I don’t track my car
have you checked the radiator condition or if debris is caked in the slots
or the age of them
Just used the zip-tie method to compensate for the stretched window regulator cable (aka, my window doesn�t drop when opening the door). Working pretty well now.
Also eliminated some wind noise on the other window by reinforcing the weather stripping.
Having things working properly makes me happy�
Thanks Skip!
@Porschetech3
My coolant level warning started flashing this morning.
I stopped and bought some distilled water at Target to top it off...but then found out it was full.
I drove home and drained my UAOS accumulator of oil. (1/3 cup / 79ml)
I replaced the diaphragm and opened the old one.
No visible holes in the diaphragm.
The accumulator and the warning light sure came in handy today!
The draining and diaphragm swap took me 5 minutes.
Time to order another spare diaphragm or two.
Thanks Tex !!!!
Just the UAOS doing it job .....
You should do a "blow-by test" on that new motor.
With the .221 precision orifice at WOT the blow-by should be less than 120 LPM or 18inwc , it will get better as the engine breaks-in fully...
Mine�s been flashing intermittently; had no idea this was an issue. 1) how often do I need to check/drain the accumulator, and 2) where does one get a spare accumulator, and 3) how often does this need to be addressed?
3 different things can cause the "slow flash"...low coolant level/Sensor.....Engine compartment temperature/Sensor/fan .....UAOS Sensor..
1. depends on if you have the "track drain" or not.
2. you don't need a spare "Accumulator"...the only thing that can fail if the easy to replace "regulator"..
3. when you get the "slow flash" warning...
I'll send you a PM we can talk...
Cleaned my radiators and made some new grills. It's been a little over a year since I did it last and put the grills on initially.
Today's cleaning was about 1/3 of what it was last year.
Also replaced both of my horns, one was kaput. Note: I ordered the Porsche ones from Suncoast and I had to drill out the mounting bracket a little for the bigger studs.
@EVOMMM
I had the bumper off and cleaned them last spring. it's been a year but I've only put 3k miles on since. For maybe half of those I had the grills in. So I'm assuming they're clean. I'm going to put them on again.
You would be surprised how quickly dirt accumulated in my radiator fins after a 1000 miles of NYC driving
so now it’s part of my yearly routine of cleaning with a hot water wash down
I haven't noticed an increase in engine temps for me since I installed the grill but good to know, I'll definitely pay attention to it more to see if anything changes.
I've had mine on for over a year here in south Texas, driving in traffic, temps over 106, never any issue.
If I'm not mistaken the problem is if your going over 135, that's when the mesh and air flow start getting wonky.
In the meantime, I'd rather have the protection. My grills stopped an over 1.5 inch rock from going in, I had to replace the grill because it was so bent, but it kept the rock from hitting the A/C condenser.
My 996 trunk and engine bay light were both out . Swapped a bulb from my Boxster into both and they worked . But as we all know they get blistering hot 😡 . Ordered four LED bulbs from Amazon and installed them in both cars . Nice bright white and cool to the touch . Best part four bulbs delivered to my door for less than 8 bucks ! They even have little heat sinks on them .
I feel your pain. We had some hail back in 2008.
I did the LED swap but used bulbs a little different from the ones 996C438 used. Very bright.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088YP5HQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088YP5HQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I added a license plate frame WiFi backup camera. It's well made and the kit is very complete. The camera covers 170 degrees but doesn't give me the view I had hoped for - possibly because the license plate area is recessed. I find backing out of parking spaces from between SUVs to be challenging since many people think that parking lots are racetracks. The camera on my wife's Subaru Forester shows cars coming from both directions and that's what I was hoping for with this one.
Replaced my headlight switch. Was having to jiggle it and it was still flickering. The TRQ brand was $55 on Amazon vs $155 for Porsche part. Very easy to do thanks to youtuber's vids, only about 20 min. Have heard of the dealer charging ~$400. Screws are a T20.
Installed a Function First metal shift **** and a aftermarket black leather shift boot with red stitching . I am slowly going to add some red touches to break down the sea of grey . The shift boot was made by KBH and purchased off Amazon . Nice fit/feel and made in the US . I am happy with both mods .
Found this gem 01 PTS Ocean Blue Metallic C4 with sport seats last week at a local Honda dealer! 75k miles.
I was very happy when I put it up on jacks and pulled the wheels off to find about $4k worth of Tarett, elephant, and Rennline suspension.
Nice to have another 996 after at least 15 something Boxsters.
What a relief it will be to be able to put my seat back far enough to be comfortable on longer trips.
This one needed "the worx." All easy stuff. Luckily had IMS and Clutch done last year at Porsche, glad I didn't have to pay that one (or do it myself).
The list:
1. replaced broken cupholders (01 style)
2. replaced pas. window regulator
3. sent out dash to have pixels repaired
4. replaced oil pressure switch
5. replaced both side door locks (no window drop)
6. ordered missing rear seat backs (still working on obtaining the hardware)
7. replace windshield cowl
8. replace rear tires (they were 9 years old, fronts new).
9. bleed brakes and clutch
10. order windshield gaskets- windshield will have to come out to fix the right way
11. proper alignment, car handles like a truck with 0 degrees front negative camber
12. mod the mufflers for moar noise.
13. fix roof "rail" gasket on pas. side.
14. Install our "RS" engine mount upgrade.
15. Install new version of Rennline phone mount.
16. Clean all the old wheel tape off inside of wheels.
17. Put cubby where CD holder was.
I have about half of the above work done, ironically I'm waiting on parts! Can't wait to drive.
L999 = PTS, although I understand Ocean Blue Metallic was a standard color in 99-00.
I might be able to help out here, I think I still have everything (the covers are black plastic though). Let me check....
Found them, located in NC if interested.
@RennPart
It looks so innocent sitting there all comfortable, waiting for everything to be hooked up. Like �I don�t know what all that cursing was about, plug me up and let�s go, easy peasy!� Meanwhile I feel like I�ve just survived some initiation rite.
I have the black Delrin version.
I was worried about the metal shift **** getting too hot during the summer down here.
It's one of my favorite mods, and will likely be done in my next 996/986 too.
I dropped off the C4 to the body shop this afternoon . Front trunk lid has two dents and some chips . Front bumper has a crease and some crazing . Both will be repaired and painted black .
Also dropped off a Better Bodies/GT3TEK GT3 style spoiler lip and rear diffuser . Both will also be painted black and installed by the shop . This will add to the look with my rear ducktail spoiler . Will post pics when I get her back .
I also got this **** and need to get a new boot. Did you cut the KBH boot to fit the FF ****? or was it precut? Can you take a picture of that interface between the **** and the boot?
I didn't cut anything on the new boot . The FF **** I installed is two pieces . A shaft adapter and the **** . That shaft adapter is pretty large in diameter . I glued the shifter boot to the original shifter frame . Let that dry overnight . I installed the FF shifter adapter then slid the new boot and frame over it . Fairly snug fit . Snapped the frame into the shift console and screwed on the new **** . Done
Sorry I can't take a pic as my car is at the body shop . I like the way it looks , to me it is clean and finished looking . But everyone has different tastes so you may disagree .
Replaced my rear springs, height on one side was 5mm lower that the other. Now they're even and about 10mm higher than before. My indie said the old/new springs looked the same height, so it must have been that they lost some of their spring. They were the original ones with the car. Now the car seems "right".
My stance now... (love it!)
Yesterday - put an engine in it for the first time in months... Feels good. But... Can't get used to it, will be coming out as soon as I get my lines routed.
Question: Is there 12V power somewhere near the rear bumper that I can tap of off? I want to run a wireless backup camera but it needs 12v full time (I'm not hooking it up to backup lights, I want to see the image all the time)
I saw it again after a long 2 weeks...on lifts at the shop, gutted lol. In the middle of getting my IMS bearing done (among other things) and I find out the IMS has apparently already been done, badly- it was absolutely covered in silicone. On that note, does anyone know what a K on the bearing might mean? My mechanic said he didn't recognize it.
Oh, and I'm looking for a tint, audio, upholsterer, powder coater, detailer, or body shop in the Poughkeepsie/Mid Hudson Valley area if anyone can recommend some!
Re-wired my backup camera... I initially tapped into the driver's side reverse lamp to power the camera and trigger the headunit input. The picture was fuzzy, and I suspected that the LED bulbs I used in the reverse lamp were introducing some noise.
I pulled the driver's seat and located the backup switch signal wire (black/blue) there. I had a hell of a time finding the wire though, because my C2 has none of the fancy options that would have connected to the signal wire (anti-dazzle mirrors, memory functions, etc.) The lonely black/blue wire was tucked back into the harness pretty well and I couldn't find it until I peeled off the sticky fabric tape. (Picture below)
I used the unused
telephone connector
in the center console (thanks to rennclassic.com) to get switched/ACC power to the camera.
In the end... great success. The backup camera image is much clearer, has minimal noise, and since the camera is always powered, I can switch to the backup view at any time. (Not sure why I'd ever need to do that though /shrug)
Thanks for the detail! I was hoping not to have to run a wire from the center console to the rear bumper.
Anyone know if there's switched power in the engine bay?
I don't believe so. My car was wired for a rear K-40 Laser Detector by the previous owner. There is switched power to my engine compartment but it comes from up front and was obviously added-on.
Cheers! Thanks! I'll get some better pics when I get it out of the garage this weekend.
I have numbers and Martini logos for the doors and hood but not sure if I'll add them or not. Might have too much horsepower after those!! haha
This is well beyond my capabilities, but a friend's shop (Apache Automotive in Bristol, RI) has been up to the task. A new build thread is in order at some point.
Slicktop! Sweet! More room for tall people with helmets!
Not really qualified to make that statement as I have a cab, and don't own a helmet, yet. But it seems right. I'm actually afraid of new paint because I know how upset I get when my paint receive a new character mark. If I had really nice paint I might not drive it.
Naked 996�s are wicked sexy, yet they look so amazing when they�re fully done up! Come to think of it, after seeing these pics, I should tell my wife to wear more makeup for �corrosion protection�.
Love the naked metal look. It would look kind of cool just clear coated. You just couldn't match the bumpers and other plastic bits. But you could just go full race car / outlaw and paint them orange to somewhat mimic this...
There has to be one in the engine compartment as there are engine components that need switched power. Unfortunately, I don't know which one would be safe to use. I'm sure that O2 sensor power, coils power, and others are switched but you don't want to risk screwing up those systems.
Also, you can buy RCA cables for backup cameras that have a power wire attached to it so you can hook it up at the head unit.
Amazon
Amazon
You should be able to get power from the O2 sensor power wire. The Renn Kit electric ram system for the turbo uses the O2 power circuit for the rear spoiler.
Factory aero kit: indefinite back order.
Factory aero bumper: indefinite back order
Factory aero skirts: can be delivered tomorrow!
So what to do? Rennlist to the rescue. Now off to paint.
Search for Renn Kit installation on the 996TT forum. There is a DIY instruction thread that explains the wiring. I do not remember which wire color is +12 offhand.
Mark
I sanded and re-cleared my headlights a few weeks ago.
pretty happy with the results. Will wet sand eventually.
also I installed new headlight gaskets.
Cleaned up a bit in the 'garage' (I use the front room in my place, it's supposed to be a 3rd bedroom but that's not needed thank God). And walked the dog in the rain a few times. Every time I walked past Savannah I thought "what an awesome looking car". And it's the unloved 911! Even Stock, NA ride height, on 17 turbo twists that are temporarily plastidipped black, which I love. The color not the dip... it makes the car look better to my lizard brain. The combination of meridian metallic and silver wheels was just too bland. With the Carrera decals and black wheels I'm happy. Pinky Lai and that team did a great job. I Would love a CF ducktail to lose some weight, those engine bay lids with the motorized spoiler must be pretty heavy. But anyway, yeah, no work done on the girl, and no drive as it's pouring. I did also discover this amazing video, of a very special event at the quail a few years back. He's uploaded a boat load of other in depth coverage from events, he's been to many. This one show though, wow. You can see that Dr Porsche is very moved and there's a real sense of legacy and history contained within. Enjoy -
You Tube
Picked up my car this morning from the body shop . The front hood had two dents and the front bumper had a crease/gash along with some crazing . All damage from previous owner . So those were repaired and repainted . I also had them paint and install a front Aero 2 style aftermarket spoiler lip and a rear diffuser . Also painted to match . Install of the aftermarket parts went well with no issues or concerns . Today via the big brown truck I have some GT3 style side skirts arriving . I will fit those , remove and take to painter . Then I will install . I had previously added the " Singer style " mini ducktail . The exterior final finish will be the install of window tint . I also purchased a used set of OEM Litronic headlights to finish her off . I am very pleased how she's coming along . She's a 1999 C4 manual with a FSI 3.8 . Enjoy
This is clever, but once you've forgotten, don't you have to remove the bumper to read it? And at that point, if I have to pull the bumper off, the hard part is done and you might was well give them a once-over anyway. Is the writing visible with the bumper on?
Hi, my '99 996 C4 started developing a very nasty grinding noise especially when decelerating. We identified that the noise was coming from the transmission. Drained the fluid (less that 10000 miles since last change) and it was black but sparkling like black metallic paint. The oil was full of millions of tiny aluminum flakes.
A bit of history on the car: when I bought it, it had a supercharger installed when the car was relatively new. So I suspect that a good number of the 92000 miles it had when I got it were done under supercharger load. I removed the supercharger, not feeling the need for the extra 120hp, about 1500 miles ago. The car has now 102000miles. After doing some reading on the transmission (G96.30) it seems that the bearings may have been compromised by the extra load of the supercharger. I need to mention that the gears shift perfectly fine with no grinding.
My mechanic is about to take down the transmission and open it up to assess the damage.
If only the bearings are damaged, should just change the bearings and call it a day or should I rebuilt the transmission for peace of mind. Or third solution, should I replace the transmission with a used one? A friend told me that I should keep numbers matching but I'm not sure that's really necessary.
Any advice?
Thank you in advance.
Getting prepared to do major maintenance on the 2001 C2. It will be getting the following: IMS Solution, UAOS, water pump, new 4 & 5 chains, cam actuator wear pads, coolant tank and blue cap. I am waiting on the coolant tank a d cap. The car has 58,500 miles but it is 22 years old. Runs great, had the AOS, water pump, clutch, plugs, coil packs, Spark Plug tubes and IMS retrofit when I bought it in 2015 at 46K miles.
Hi, I wouldn't put one. The powertrain is not designed to take the extra load/torque.
It looks like rebuilding the gearbox is a hell of a job so I am looking for a used one. I'm not a happy camper.
I purchased off eBay . I think the vendor was Better Bodies out of California . There was zero rework it fit great out of the box . Just needed standard prep before primer and paint . The part comes with two sided tape pre-installed along with screws and adhesion promoter . The body shop used two screws per side in the wheelwells and a few on the bottom . The tape adheres the front/top . It's not going anywhere .
Yes! Hard to believe. Forgot to mention I wet sand them.
I tried the 220 but wasn't happy so now my standard is 60 on a rotary sander then work my way up.
I did about 4 other sets in the past but this is the first one I've cleared.
If you just do the sanding, then you can buff them and polish/wax them but they will yellow faster.
Some victims I had sitting around last year
Pretty Nasty
This is a set I did that I buffed and waxed, they look great but yellow faster than when you put clear on them.
Finished product- unfortunately you can't easily fix the yellow lens inside. You can see some sanding marks on this one, did not perfect, because racecar.
Of course it isn't visible with the bumper on, but there seem to be other opportunities to have the bumper off from time time. This, together with the notes I keep in a separate record book, serve both as reminder for me and as notice to any shop that may have occasion to remove the bumper skin.
So lookIng straight down with plug at the top of amp. Grab right side edge of plug and pull toward the right while wiggling the entire plug. The entire plug will walk off as u pull it. U can see the slots in the plug, this is the cam action.
Nice. I've an 01 C2 as well, and I'm on the same program. I had DME reports today and I'm still in spec, but the small chains and vario pads will get done at some point regardless, and sooner rather than later, as my car has 97k miles on her. With no service history it's a labor of love to get the deferred maintenance all caught up. I'm getting there, the girl has her own binder and spreadsheet. She's spoiled.
@De Jeeper
I think I have the same amp (hifi, non most, non bose) and with 4 new CAI speaker kits the hifi is sort of living up to it's name, but not really. What if any amp is a plug and okay upgrade for these units? Any recommendations? She needs more hrsprs.
I wish I could claim I did this myself, but my skills lie elsewhere. Maybe some day I'll find said skills...
At my request my Indy dropped the sump and did the deed for me, and when he sealed her up, she had a 997 upgraded baffle, mine was beat. He videoed the sump, and found two tiny pieces of what he said is chain pad, both about the size of a pin or finishing nail head. No metal, and the borescope was a result. Only cylinder 6 has minor scoring, you can see on a small 2 inch max area, right on the bottom of cylinder wall. The scoring is light but you can see some wear on the lokasil? Or whatever it is. 1- 5 were perfection. As he said, if I tore this engine down this is exactly what it should look like. So I've dodged a bullet. Sometimes there are happy endings. I skipped the scope ppi so this certainly could have gone anyway. Good oil change habits and good start habits should see me going a long ways down the road. Cam deviations were taken a couple times at full operating temps and are within spec, but I'll be doing that top end pretty soon, small chains, and vario can pads, as I do not know when if any they were done. I'll save up and do the UAOS, water pump, reservoir, but almost everything else is done.
He had a look and as i suspected, from the mild clunk on slow bumps I do need new front top mount kits and will do bump stops. I'm going he'll let me source from FCP euro, his parts warranty is only 3 years which is not bad, but I would prefer lifetime. I'll get those done next week w the necessary alignment, as I'm leaving to drive from NC to Canada after Easter. That's right, Savannah is going to visit America's hat. So plenty of miles will be rolled on, likely about 3500. To paraphrase Elwood, I've got good brakes, good tires, a full tank of gas and a half a pack of cigarettes,,it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses." Somewhere on the road we'll hit 100k, hopefully somewhere pretty.
when I come back it's time for Radiators, UAOS, cooling reservoir, pump, timing chains, new oil filler tube, and likely new tires. Mine have great tread but are dated 2016. If they were not southern only tires and and off brand I would do it before I go, but they're pilot sport 3+ AS, I can't bring myself to take them off just due to age. There's no signs of rot and the rubber is still rubbery, so I'll risk it. I'll be doing 55 the whole way, so no worries. Time to go research radar detectors and the legality of such in the various states. My toll pass is test to go and so am I. And I am going to upgrade the amp, hopefully I'll find something plug and play. My system is mentioned in a reply above, but it's the HIFI 10 speaker (that's a stretch but ok porsche) non most non Bose all copper wire. If anyone has a suggestion that will bolt in and use the wiring plugs, I would appreciate the advice. 🙏
The factory amp is 6 x 25 watts RMS and about 40 watts peak. Nothing is going to be plug and play since those connectors are proprietary. But it's quite easy to cut off those connectors and wire in an aftermarket amp. I went with this very reasonably priced (~$135)
Kenwood KAC-M1814
. It's only 4 channels (I dropped the rear speakers for better imaging) but puts out 45 watts RMS.
For size comparison
Mounted on the front of the factory bracket
I used an RCA splitter from the front channel pre-amp output of my Sony XAV-AX6000 headunit. I reused all the OEM wiring since this amplifier doesn't need large gauge power wire and the OEM wire was 14awg, and the factory amplifier fuse (15A) matches the needs of the Kenwood amp. The OEM speaker wires are 16awg which is plenty for up to 75 watts. The amplifier's 4 channels drive a pair of Hertz 4" components in the dash, and the factory 5.25" woofers in the doors.
I consider this a budget audio setup for now while I figure out if and how crazy I want to go with audio.
I pretty much did what this guy did ^^^^ but i have a 4x50w kenwood. I do have the continenral radio that only has speaker outs (no rca) but my amp accepts then for a high pass signal. Basically just tapped into the factory harness.
@binaryaudax That helps, thanks. My head unit is the pccm plus, so I'm hoping that all i need is another better 5 channel amp that I can wire in and not run any new wires through the firewall. Does that sound doable?
Yes, very do-able. The PCCM+ should have pre-amp outputs (6 channels) that run to the factory amplifier. You'd chop off the factory amplifier connector and tap into the speaker wires. If you're running a larger amp than me, I'd suggest running new power and ground, but you won't need to go through the firewall for those -- just through the frunk wall to the battery.
I have no experience with their products, but CAI sells a complete 5-channel amp with mounting board and wiring:
https://cai-store.com/collections/99...-amplifier-kit
Thanks
@binaryaudax
.
I stopped by a local audio specialist recommended to me, and got a quote to install a
$699 JlAudio 5 channel, the RD900/5
EDIT: $899! JLAudio XDM 700/5. The installer there said no to the cheaper kicker version, that there's bad alternator whine that's not present in the JL. I think he means this feature
'differential-balanced inputs help eliminate noise'. he mentioned the whine in the cheaper amps can be fixed, but requires some more expensive rewiring.
He knows the pccm+ and that it has preouts, so his work includes running the new line level rca cables into the console via that hole above our gas pedals.
Total install is just over 1200, ouch, but I guess inflation. I think he will reuse the speaker wiring.
Will I pay it? Not today donkey, not today. (Shrek anyone?)
I installed the pccm plus so I can probably manage an amp, but it's been a long time since high school and wiring my Craig cassette deck to 6x9s haha. That install cost is making me think to wait, but since I'm driving 1500 miles to Nova Scotia after Easter and the current amp can just barely play my podcasts and music loud enough at 55. On the highway, the wind and road noise is pretty dominant. I'm not sure blasting podcasts and music loud enough to drown out cabin noise is good for my old ears. They were abused in college at far too many kids but awesome shows.
I will probably pack in those squishy ear plugs and use bone conductive headphones. Not safe or legal probably, but I'm taking about interstates, would not use off highway. It's the $ sadly. Yeah we can make more, I know. I just dropped 1200 on oil change, borescoping, sump dropped and baffle replaced. Finally got my new key programmed so that's awesome. I can lock and open with a button press now. A button!
I've got to have the front strut top mounts and misc parts 2 bearings and nuts replaced this coming week, that's another 1100 or so. I asked my mechanic if he thought I was being wasteful restoring a 95k mile no service history 996, and should have waited for a cherry lite miles, spent the money there. He said no, the gas for my boat doesn't pay for itself. Haha. I like restoring this car, eventually it will be mint except for the odd scratch and dent and paint mar. I'm keeping the patina.
I'm rambling again sorry.
Another option for better cabin audio and less noise would be to buy new pilot sport 4 AS, or the Conti equivalent. It's possible my highway road noise is down to my Pilot sport 3+:AS with date code 2016. But that's also a gamble, and like I mentioned earlier, the tyres are still sticky, well treaded, and hold air impeccably. I've got an all in one battery powered gauge and nflator and check pressures often and I've never seen air leak, even slight. The only psi changes are down to cold temps. So yeah buying new tires might help, but it would hurt to take them off before there's tread wear that warrants it. Decisions...
I have done 1 door with soundmats deadening, and I should get to the other and the engine firewall. Floors as well, these cars are noisy, just by design. I'm not sure I can get to those before I leave. I'm sure I could pay the amp installer to do that as well, but I hate to have a stranger doing things like that to my girl. Only I get to undress her interior.
I'll see myself out ...
FWIW, I have no alternator whine or static on the Kenwood. I know it's not audiophile-grade stuff, but if the input sensitivity is set correctly (easy) then there isn't an issue.
I don't like that the installer never mentioned the JLAudio amp they quoted me on is discontinued, and they are asking full retail, 899.00 its
this one
at crutchfield. Kind of disappointing, they are highly recommended but now I've got a bad taste in my mouth from that. I could be jumping to conclusions so not judging yet.
crutchfield also points out that the amp is not compatible with my car. I've not researched why. But yeah back to square one and on a budget. I don't suppose anyone has the wiring diagram for the stock non- most non Bose amplifier and tips on how to change that amp? I'm off to Google now. I will likely order that Kenwood, and like you, see if it's a solution I like.
Good heavens is that how much they are now? I'll have to look at my receipts. Those were the very first things I replaced on the targa. I don't recall being put off by the price.
yeah I came across some posts from people not terribly long ago saying they paid a dollar a pop. Becker is selling a set for $46+tax now which is absolutely bonkers
Are you upgrading all the speakers, too? If not, 75 watts RMS is overkill. I get the sense the installer is just trying to sell you something they have on hand.
Crutchfield won't list any amplifiers as compatible with any car because nearly all amplifiers are universal and require custom wiring. There are a handful of amplifiers made for very specific cars -- usually BMWs.
There is a wiring diagram for the 996 posted elsewhere on this form. I used that to identify the wire colors. I don't have the link handy at the moment though.
@binaryaudax
I found a great resource for all things wiring at
www.cai-store.com
where I bought my speakers, for wiring and amps. Their Kenwood comes with all the wiring and make the job pretty easy. It's still overkill for me. Im ordering the same little Kenwood that you recommended, also recommended but Mitch at Crutchfield, along with some other pieces wiring related. I'm going to replace the door mid woofers with a pair of infinity Primus and run the doors and dash in the same channel, but with some capacitors in the dash only, they call them bass blockers this week be a nice little project as I want to do some more sound deadening in the doors anyway. If I go ahead and do a sub behind the seats later, the amp can be swapped some wiring and fuse upgrades to seal the deal. But for now, the 4 channel amp should solve for X. Thanks for your help.
I had one of our water pump kits sitting out for me to install on my 01 996 C4 with 75k miles..
I decided it was Sunday and I was going to treat myself with a backroad twistie ride up to Sparta, NC about an hour from my house...
Everything was going well until the ride home- I heard the serpentine belt start squealing..
Looks like I should have done the WP instead! Luckily it didn't overheat, however I lost the coolant in this gas station parking lot so hopefully it won't make a big mess when I drain the rest of the coolant on our lift later this week!
I had these parts sitting on my shipping table for me to install on my 996..
You Tube
Working on replacing my IMS retrofit with the IMS Solution. Ran into a major problem. Pulling the old bearing out of the Intermediate shaft and heard a pop. The stud in the center of the IMS broke. I don�t know why it did. The only thing I can think of is that the sleeve portion of the puller was covering part of the bearing race so it could not slide out. I DI not think I was applying that much pressure in pulling the bearing. They are usually tight until you overcome the static friction and get the bearing to start moving. Now I have to figure out how to get the old bearing out. If I can�t, I will have to completely disassemble the engine.
Any suggestions?
If I can�t figure a was to overcome this, I guess I will be building a 3.6 or 3.8 for my 01 C2
Some days you get the bear and some days the bear gets you!
Hey Mark, You IMS tool set should have came with a "special tapered nut" with a wire attached to it just for this purpose...
You punch the old stud back into the Shaft, then hold the wire and at an angle insert the special nut then straighten it up to fit behind the race then screw a stud into the special nut then try again to pull the bearing out..
Jake did a good job on designing the tools and thought of every scenario...the stud breaking happens a lot but you will be ok..
Right?!!
I agree. Especially if you change the US diving board bumpers for the Euro versions.
My comment was tongue in cheek, I knew it was a Bimmer meet. I took the 996 because the M5 failed smog so even though all the fees are paid, it's technically not road legal.
And yes, I'm a PCA member. In fact I just had my 20 year anniversary in December. I didn't get the 20 year cufflinks or tie clip but maybe I'm thinking of the BMWCCA.
Thanks Skip. I found the special tapered nut with wire. Lookers at old bearing closely and saw there was a spiral lock. Than was not mentioned in. The instructions, just that you needed to remove a snap ring when dealing with a single row bearing and that double row bearing did not have a snap ring. I removed the spiral lock and installed the “special tapered nut” and then was able to pull the old bearing right out.
I owe you a big thank you and a lunch!!
Second attempt at hiding the condition of the headlight lenses. They�re not the worst I�ve seen by themselves, but look awful against the white paint. The first attempt was with yellow, but it was much to bold for my tastes. Gonna see how this �light smoke� vinyl ages on me. I know the answer is refinishing, but it looks like they�re yellowing from the inside, so I�m not that hopeful. So in the meantime, I get to practice laying vinyl.
If you have a 3D printer or know someone who does, you can print these. They're not 100% identical but they work on my CDR220 and look good. I'm guessing they are the same for the CDR23
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4487366
Ok, so this is a small one. The directional indicators on the instrument cluster was "fast blinking", which of course suggests a burned out bulb, in this case the right front. Pulled the headlight for the first time, using the little 5mm wrench included in the tool roll. It was still there, as I suspected the previous owner took care of this car. Anyway, the headlight systems seems to be pretty good, impressed to see the blind mate connector housing all of the connections. I probably should have tested the headlight washer to make sure it is also connected, but then I have never even used or tested the headlight washers.
Interesting -- thank you for the message. I am being a bit stupid here and I think I will only be happy with OEM replacement or refurbishment. Gonna try cleaning up the rubber coating w some spirits and see if it can be smoothed out.
I used denatured alcohol to get rid of the soft touch a few years ago on my PCM 2. The ***** look fine afterwards and are not sticky. I need do do the Cayenne next.
I feel the same a bunch of times. Sunday we had a get together at Alara garage in Houston, this place garages over 500 cars that you can have access to your car 24/7, 365 days a year, climate control, on a tender . Cost $500 per month. They have a repair facility, detail tint ppf, they sell exotic cars, and are the Houston partner for bat. They have a wine cellar, they store and sell wine, they do the same with art. They have a second floor where you can have parties. Anyway I drove the 99 there they had some good pastries, both savory and sweet. It�s super cool having these older cars. A group of 4 of us met early in the morning and we drove as a group there was a 992, a 991.2, a997.2, I was driving at the side of all of them, looking at their Wing lift mechanism all of them do the same function but look completely different when driving by their side. As always had a blast.
We went early so we wanted good parking spots.
That Mexico blue 718 is currently in a bat auction.
The white G is bulletproof it either belongs to a drug dealer or Obama hope and change.
Great food, the pastries with sausage where awesome.
Love that blue color.
Suicide door Lincoln. I�ll go 5 percent tint and call it the pimp mobile.
They have quite a few Ferraris for sale most of their cars are collectible grade, low mileage examples, prices resemble such, they had a Japanese 22b Subaru wrx yes steering wheel on the other side $350k.
I learned the hard way that the factory roof rack system for the 996 cabrio, also known as the roof transport system does not fit the wide body variants of the 996.
If anybody local to New Jersey is interested in this let me know. It�s a complete factory kit for 996 cabrio. If interested I would be more than happy to help it find a new home.
Fister mufflers installed (sounds so good) but the exhaust tips were not properly aligned by the shop. When I brought it back they told me they couldn't be adjusted blah blah� They just didn't want to deal with the rusted hardware etc. I decided to take care of the hardware in the tips, drilling out and replacing, and then ceramic coating the black centers. Turned out really good I think and the tips are now finally aligned properly
..well unfortunately my blown water pump was not just the pump- after letting the engine cool down I have oil in the coolant...
Will be dropping the engine and pulling the heads for further inspection but I'm suspecting I cracked a head due to a localized hot spot.
Engine still runs fine, no smoke etc. Obviously not driving it!
Will start my own thread to show progress.
If you're doubting changing out your original water pump here is your sign!
--Aaron
Yesterday: slipped the new Coco Mats in
They look darker in the pics than they are IRL. Pretty much a match for Savannah Beige.
Today: got her ready for summer cycling mode.
These winter shoes come off soon. Powdered twists inbound.
Also picked up the twists from powder coating. Pics coming soon.
I deleted the headlight washers which were broke.
1999 Porsche 911 Carrera, 6-sp, 53,000 miles, previously updated air box with K&N drop-in air filter, and HPC silicon air tube. Next fix broken center console cover, then air vent blowing foam.
Dug my car out of the garage yesterday and took it for the first drive since November or so. Just ordered an oil change kit so I will be doing that shortly. Always impressed by how well the Porsche drives after not driving it for a while. For a 20+-year-old car, it's held up remarkably well compared to other cars I've driven.
Last week my 996.1 got treated to an oil change and bore scope through the sump. New sump baffle, oil and filter back together. Clean cylinder walls except a tiny wear air on cyl 6 floor as I guess to be expected.
This week she's got new top mounts, bearings etc on the front. Next week, OEM reservoir, pump, low temp Thermo and some new hardware and hoses. Then after Easter I'm heading on a 3k mile road trip. Someone suggested I rent a car for the trip, 'you don't want to do that in an old 911'. Rubbish. I'm not investing in the girl to leave her at home. Jeez... Some people don't get it I guess. I'll take some road photos.
Not sure if you're heading west, but I too am heading on a big trip. Leaving from Bluffton, SC to head to my new home in Hermosa Beach, CA. Plan is to leave this Sunday night and get there by next weekend. Going to spend a day or two in Phoenix/Scottsdale when I get there. I'll be going the "southern route" through Houston and the like. If you see an Arena Red with ambers and a Pennsylvania tag give me a wave!!!
That's a good trek. I've driven West to East and East to West a few times but this one is from NC to NS Canada and back after a few weeks. First real long road trip in this car. I've got my toll pass, but no radar yet. Not sure if it's worth the $. And it's so confusing with all the choices...
Very nice- north this time of year is going to be good. She�ll hold up!
You might want to look into Waze if you haven�t already. It�s a maps app where people report all sorts of stuff along your route - cops included and it�s usually pretty accurate.
then again ~95mph for me hovers around 4k - I like to keep it in the 3.2 range around 85 or so
I mounted the subwoofer box I made using mounts I drew up in Solidworks. The box doesn�t have single 90 degree bend which made mounting it tricky. I tied into the rear seat latch studs and 3D printed washers that are angled to match the offset. Twin 8� Memphis subs are perfect for such a small cabin!
as long as you are going to listen to ac/dc Boston or rush I dig that, if you are going to listen to rap go ahead and do an air suspension and put some wire wheels on, go to east LA with it.
Don’t be sound prejudice!!!
my old setup was more intense took it out and put in a slim line single box
but all music should be enjoyed as the owner likes
Very cool for enhancing the stock speaker set-up, myself I find myself listening more to the engine with the radio off. I really like it with the window down.
Used the sea sucker monkey bars for the first time. Put on my cabrio hardtop. Highway speeds. Couple of hours. Held up great. Was a little worried the hardtop was going to be upset about it, but no issues. Highly recommend the sea sucker mounts to anybody who wants to turn a hardtop cabrio or traditional coupe into a true SUV every sense of it.
Headlight gaskets???? Are you referring to the p shaped plastic trim that goes between the light unit and the bodywork? Please tell me yes, mine are swiftly turning into a sludgy mess. If you know where I can source them I would be very interested to know, please.
Fitted this Cobra Nogaro seat using their latest/updated mounting system :
It's incredibly comfortable and incredibly low because of this neat, ingenious piece of design :
I�m embarrassed to admit it was the original water pump with 75k miles.
I knew better, had a new pump sitting in the office to put on but it was Sunday and I had been working all week and wanted to go for a ride.
shamless plug if you need a water pump I have a package deal with a low temp t-stat for a special price.
�Aaron
Sorry to see that, but it reminds me to replace mine. I replaced my original one at 60k miles and it was fine after 15 years. I now have 82k on the clock and another 8 years. I have a new water pump and low temp thermostat on hand and it seems like something to do soon.
I had an unusual UAOS failure this morning while hitting the twisties.
I was out for a morning Pre-Porsche get together meet up.
I noticed some smoke after the twisties and headed back home.
On the way home I got a “low coolant” warning.
This is what I found when I arrived:
A bunch of oil dripping down the engine.
The cause was a failure of the plastic boat plug used to drain the accumulator.
The thread remains, but there’s a hole in the middle:
I decided not to put a new plug in the accumulator, but instead to install the Extreme Track Auto Drain option I’ve had in my parts collection for over a year. Not how I had planned on spending my afternoon, but I’m thankful I had it on hand.
I had the same thing happen with my UAOS accumulator drain plug. Luckily I had another plug on hand from my original plastic UAOS accumulator that I had before upgrading to the aluminum version. Maybe Skip can chime in and recommend a more durable plug.
These drain plugs are standard Mercury Marine Mercruiser 22-80668A2 . The black ones are Japan made Mishimoto brand and I have seen a few break.. The blue ones are OEM Mercruiser or Sierra brand and I haven't seen anyone break on of those..
That said Hardin Marine makes a Stainless Steel version that is unbreakable, but is a bit heavy ...I was thinking on including these as a special Tribute for my late Sons birthday on Cinco De Mayo ( May 5th), what do Y'all think?
Like Tex is doing the Extreme Track Drain Option includes a Steel Banjo Bolt and is the best way to go, I dare anyone to break that !!!!
Replaced the original motor mounts at 83k miles. They were beyond shot. Have a track day next week so I am catching up on all deferred maintenance by the po.
Bath day for the ladies. Started with the wife's 986.2 S, then the 996.
Not suite sold on the red center caps. Still a work in progress.
Final wipe down in the garage.
Pulled bumper for first time to clean radiators. They weren't too bad, but there was a fair amount of debris between thee two radiators. Glad I pulled them apart. Also ended up removing the front radar detector because it was wired to the bumper and had to cut it. And then pulled all the wires and junk from console and unhooked it from the fuse box (with battery disconnected). Only thing remaining is the rear detector because didn't want to remove the rear bumper.
Sent my heads off to Len Hoffman- only found 1 small piece of WP impeller, hoping to find more.
Will replace both Rad's to hopefully ensure no more pieces get cycled through and the same thing happens when I put it back together.
--Aaron
Smart to replace rads and flush the coolant. I'm going to do mine soon. Crossing my fingers that the cooling system doesn't let me down while I'm on a 3k mile road trip, and I'll do it when I get back. Fingers crossed. There's just not enough time to get the parts and the install done before I leave on Wed next week. I'm paranoid so I might call my Indy tomorrow and beg for a slot. He's closed Friday and Monday for Easter.. Tuesday he's mounting and balancing new tires for me. I went with Conti ExtremeContact DWS 06 Plus. Just for the name EXTREME! 😳 Actually it was flip a coin between those and Michelin ps4AS. Went conti after a lot of research said they are slightly quieter. Both have excellent wet braking. My PS3+AS were just too old and noisy for 3k miles drive.
New rad's helps with everything. I use the OEM supplier to Porsche- BEHR.
On track cars I install the CSF all aluminum units for added cooling.
If you can't find someone local to do the job give me a call and I can get you in. We are located in Winston Salem, NC.
--Aaron
I have always heard 7-10 years for street. 5-7 years if you track it. But nothing concrete to prove it. Don't see anything on the Porsche maintenance schedule I am looking at, but I may have missed it.
Driving my 996 from Chicago to Philla and back over the Easter weekend. My wife is staying home with our blind dog who we can't put in the kennel and I am going to see the family and exercise the 996. BTW it was her idea...
This is the second time I made the trip in my 996 with GT3 seats and a pretty stiff suspension. Here is the funny thing, the GT3 seats are extremely comfortable for the long drive. But there is one thing I have done to make the seats even better.
I put a 1 inch thick pice of foam under the cushions. Holy cow, with the cushions the seats are incredible for a long drive. The combo provides great back support and the sides keep you in your seat. Highly recomend it if you have the seats and plan a long drive. But don't recomend it while tracking the car.
Those calipers look great, reminds me that mine are worse for wear. I did my first oil change in a year, I have been religious since purchasing about doing a change it in the spring and fall regardless of mileage. Ended up with COVID in the fall and while I didn't get it too bad my mom was bedridden for 6 weeks and by the time I caught up on life it was already winter. The oil looked good, was about half a quart short but between what I spilled and what was left in the filter and pans I wiped out was pretty much even. Did find one small, single metal piece though so now my car is probably about to explode.
Don't have any photos as my hands were all greasy, but I figured how to refurbish power window motor assemblies as mine died and I decided to risk a used ebay motor (that I could refurb it, I'll attach a stock photo). Here's a basic outline:
With the motor assembly off, remove the 5? torx screws for the metal/rubber seal cover that seals around the output shaft
Remove the C clip on top of the shaft, don't lost it!
Slide the plastic splined drive gear off, note it has a bottom seal, don't lose it
Remove the rubber cush drive, examine it for damage and the 3 vanes that drive it, if they are damaged the unit is kaput
If ok, remove the inner plastic drive gear, note it has a thin metal washer at the bottom don't lose it
On the side of the housing is the main connector, it is in a different plastic housing held on by 4 torx screws, remove them then pull the housing free, it has resistance
Unscrew the 4 torx screws that hold the steel motor casing on
Pull the motor out
Pull the rotor out of the motor casing with the plastic
Clean it all, I used electric contact cleaner, it will be full of black brush debris
Slide the brush housing slightly off the copper rotor, note it doesn't come completely off
Use toothpicks or other thin tools and dig out the impacted graphite brush material that shorts the motor over time (and kills it) between the copper
With all the debris removed between the copper contacts, give it another wash in contact cleaner
Use a toothpick to spring back the brushes, allowing the housing to fit back where it was
Make sure the inside of the steel casing is clean (should be from step 10)
Drop 1 drop of oil on the bronze bushing at the base of the steel casing to lubricate it
Clean the plastic housing where the motor goes into, using contact cleaner, its full of black brush material
Put a drop of oil on the bronze bushing in the plastic housing, where the motor shaft goes through
Insert the motor back into the plastic housing
Tighten the 4 torx screws to fit it
Insert the connector plastic part, it should be aligned via the PCB and casing
Tighten the 4 torx screws to mount it in place
Grease the bottom of the main drive shaft
Grease the outside of the gear
Insert the gear, don't forget to check the washer
Insert the cush drive
Grease the steel shaft
Slide on the main spline plastic gear, double check the seal is in place
Add grease to the stop of the shaft
Snap on the C clip
Put the seal/steel side part on, make sure to grease the inside of the seal first
Put the torx screws back
Wipe the outside
Go drink a beer, you saved $600-1000 vs buying a new window motor
even if you have the door open to fix something else and your motor is 20 years old its still going to probably fail. This can all be done in 20 mins so worth doing
I have a 99 C2 with 165,000 KM. As far as I can tell, it has spent its whole life in Nova Scotia. With limited PO records, I could tell that the clutch and RMS were replaced at 92,500 KM, Serpentine Belt and Spark Plugs at 108,000 KM and IMS bearing at 117,000 KM.
There was no records indicating that the thermostat or water pump had ever been replaced.
So with the milage at 164,500 KM I tackled changing the thermostat, water pump as well as a fresh set of plugs and a new serpentine belt. The water pump was in great condition, with no damage visible on the impeller.
Took me several hours to do it with the car on jack stands. I am retired and winter is just ending in Canada so I was able to putter about and take my time. I worked on it for 2 - 3 hours a day and got it done in a few days. I am not mechanically inclined but with the assistance of the FCP and PCA videos on YouTube it was quite doable.
Annoyed with Porsche for making some short sighted engineering decisions (like not fabbing the engine support to allow the water pump to slide out an extra 10 mm so as to allow the impeller to clear the housing and allow for retrieval without having to loosen the engine support). Oh well, its done. Rant over.
Test drives on Good Friday made for a good Friday indeed. No leaks, no codes and Felix (that be his name) was quite happy to shake off the cobwebs and squirrel hair after a winter's sleep.
jb
Where are you in NS? I'm headed from Wilmington NC to Deep Brook NS next week to visit family. I'm driving my 2001 996, with 97500 miles on the odo. I'll hit 100,000 on the trip, god willing. My Indy is replacing reservoir, water pump, thermostat and radiators, it'll be done Thursday before I leave. I've just mounted new tires and finished up the suspension refresh. I've no garage so I can't take my time and diy it, or damn right I would. All that's left after this work will be injectors, UAOS, ac condenser, fuel pump, oil cooler, wheel bearings, and caliper restoration. Oh and a top end refresh, timing chains etc The list of work completed already is longer than the Todo list anyway, so we're getting there. I'm going to do at least some of the work myself.
Tomorrow I'm going to wire in a new micro Kenwood power amp to replace the under powered factory hifi, it's badged NOKIA of all things. I've already done the pccm+ and the speakers. . Wish me luck.🤞
I'll likely be retiring in NS in a few years. The sooner the better tbh. Hope to see you on the road!
You won't be too far away from me. Am in Freeport on Long Island, about an hour ish from Deep Brook.
Looks like your road trip will be well timed as I think the weather forecasts are not showing any more snow.
Its a good place to retire to as property values are generally lower than most other places in Canada. Then again its also got its fair share of problems with health care and a strong urban / rural divide.
jb
After successfully completing the heater/evaporator door hack last week - going in through the heater core, I tackled the other one today. I pulled the radio and related trim, then cut open the HVAC box as described in numerous tutorials. I also installed a new pop-out cup holder assembly ($$$) while I had everything apart. Managed not to break anything.
Celebrated my accomplishment by washing my car afterwards.
I�m the bitch whiner on the forum.
Just paid our indie to literally hand loosen my oil pressure sensor switch after three attempts to get it off to include power tools, a lift, customer tools. And we had an oil leak on the way to the shop and� upon arrival, it came right off.
So for my car, we are doing the radiators in two weeks, and I am going to attempt repairs on the passenger seat.
But I want to go aftermarket manual seats with the Recaro Sport GTs.
Happened to me, or similar. Some asshat torqued the transmission fill bolt in so hard, I just couldn't remove it. It's not even supposed to be torque fit, the thing is on the top of the transmission and uses crush washers. Mucklers...ah well.
What did you torque to 30lb? Porsche spec is 96ft/lb for wheel lugs. I have spacers, many of us do I bet, and they don't bolt on, are rennline different?
Replaced my 21 year old engine mounts on my 02 4S that were VERY loose and cracked with PRG Products ones and like many of you here noticed the difference in driving feel. They also brought the exhaust tips back up to proper height. Tarett trans bushings next.
Thanks for sharing. It might be worthwhile to cut & paste this into a new thread with a title about refurbishing the power window motor so it will be easy to find. There's some great stuff in this "What did you do to your 996 today?" thread, but with nearly 9,000 posts, it's almost impossible to find this kind of stuff after a few weeks after a bunch of new posts have come in.
Lug bolts are torqued to 92 or 96 ft lbs. Studs are torqued to 30lbs with loctite. The lug nuts are then torqued to 92 or 96 ft lbs (like the lug bolts)�
...watched it emerge from a trailer and welcomed it home. '03 Orient Red Targa with 36,500 miles. One owner through 2021 and 31,500 miles - I'm its third. My first 996, and first non air-cooled Porsche. Much to learn and excited as hell.
You 2 play nicely in there...
Oil change. This is the first time I drained the old oil without removing the skid plate. Big mistake!
And then did the clay bar treatment. Hopefully tomorrow morning's marine layer will last long enough for me to wax it.
Completed my UIDS install and went for a test drive - pics and comments in this thread/post:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post18747369
-Tom
New radiators, reservoir, water pump and thermostat and coolant flush do help. My temp did not touch the 0 of 180 for the entire spirited drive with the local PCA from porsche Wilmington to the mad boar in Wallace yesterday. Then it burped again, coolant dropped just below the min line. Topped up when I got home. This was also the first drive with the new Conti DWS06. Sadly my plastidipped black wheels did not survive the install on the rears, even with touchless installer. So I'm back to silver for a while. Mines the meridian metallic in the foreground. I didn't plan it that way. It works tho. I was just ahead of the sweep, Mike, in the ruby red boxster. Today I washed the bugs off, checked the coolant again and the new tire pressure. Not too long ago I bought an oak&iron battery powered compressor and pressure gauge. No more plugging the old pump into the cigarette lighter. It's the little things. The gauge in the unit is very accurate, I've tested it against my Jaco elitepro. I got it on Kickstarter but there are several out there. Safe driving!
great job. Wow your blue car looks awesome. I�m actually bidding on same color turbo. I helped a friend test some auto blips and since he was doing the install, I was polishing cleaning the headlights on my turbo. We did this Friday, so I just spent yesterday with the family. If any of you guys want and auto blip let me know the owner is a good friend of mine, you track guys this auto blip thing is pretty cool , I think it�ll take time off your lap.
My friends insane 95 993.
He installed quick connects so we can test pretty fast in future ocasions
This thing is pretty cool.
I smoked a prime rib for my 55 birthday
I�m bidding on this beauty, willing to trade in my triple black one.
Installed aftermarket exhaust headers . I picked these up used and had them media blasted and coated with Cerakote inside and out . No clue what brand they are but fit good and look nice . I figure they will flow as well or better than stock .
Yesterday I loaded my goalie equipment in my Porsche for the first time. Very tough to cram the bag between the front seat back and the door pillar, but it fits. Truly the all-purpose sports car!
I took the HVAC off. Now I'm going to clean it and fix the door. Has anyone disassembled the HVAC outside the car? Is there any topic describing HVAC stripping?
I don't remember seeing one for a 996, but on YouTube the "Humble Mechanic" disassembled one for a VW that should be similar.
https://humblemechanic.com/fix-blend...seal-hvac-box/
Some VWs suffer from the same foam issues as the Porsche 9x6.
I finally got around to installing my oil temp gauge from Coopduc:
Also got around to aligning my car after installing GT3 coilovers:
My friend and I aligned the 996 track car after installing some MCS 2WR coilovers. I'll be driving this next Monday and he'll be taking his newly acquired 997.2 Cup at Chuckwally Valley Raceway. Should be a good time.
All
VW's and Audi's have the same problem back as far as when the watercooled era started. You would think that in 50 years they would have found a solution that holds up. Now my Cayenne is blowing foam bits too.
I worked at an Indy back in the late 80s early 90s that did lots of maintenance and repairs on watercooled VWs and Audi's since the closest dealer was a 2 hour drive away.
I don't remember encountering this, but they were mostly new cars back then.
I wonder if new cars have the same fate ahead of them.
I have never seen this with the Asian and domestic vehicles I normally encounter these days.
I mostly only work on VW's and Audis that are 20+ years old and they all have this problem. It starts at 15-ish years old and just keeps getting worse.
Yes, I can't help but wonder why it's localized to VAG cars. No old US made cars, Toyotas or Hondas, or even BMW or Mercedes have this problem.
Well I finally pulled the trigger on installing a set of floating rotors. Looking forward to seeing if I notice all that unsprung weight I am reducing!
Smog. Right up there with going to the dentist as one of my favorite things to do. Passed with flying colors though after ripping up and down the freeway for 40 minutes.
Got the 99 to pass yearly inspection. No cats no problem. Next year only visual with wiper check, horn , lights, no more ob2 reading. Next year the inspection is only $12. Next need to give it a good wash. The 408s are filthy.
Pass with flying colors.
Thx!
They are Forgeline GA3R�s 18x9.5+47 and 18x12+47
Refinished by Wheel Enhancement in LA. I stayed with the Hampton Gold color but had them do the inner barrels in addition to the faces.
Here�s some before photos:
beautiful looks like my early 99, if you have factory 408s, the leather dash, and the Nokia sound system pretty similar car. Yes love that blue stripe and the ducktail, now time to put some smiles on it. The black one is the darth knight my 03 triple black turbo. Yes both are modified.I�m washing the 99 today, already put some leatherique on the interior, welcome to the club, looking forward to your thread.!
I�m taking the turbo out today after I wash the 99.
Thanks, Im not sure on the exact build date, I think its 4/98, but they are factory 408-optioned Hollow Spokes. No leather dash, and not sure about audio, happy to have put the cassettes I have in the tape holder haha
Sunday swapped out my locked up drivers side window motor assembly for the refurbished one I bought off ebay. Went quick maybe 1.5 hours. Window now works perfectly and is much stronger. The motor has been dying for some time
First... new Ignition Swith, because my Key turns hard and sometimes it doesnt gets out of the lock. But...doesnt work. So i gets out the hole Part left of the steering and found a lot of Grease, that turns into something hard as Candy. Clean with Break Cleanes, puts PTFE Spray in it... better, but not good. Next step: cleaning the lock itself with Break Cleaner, cleaning the Key, puts PTFE Spray into the lock... LIKE NEW!!!
Next: put a 991 Badge to the front hood. Like those more than the original ones...
NEXT: Build a now fuelcap with gold Screws and without the "Clic" Mechanism. With those, the Cap isn�t straight when closing it...so you have to turn it another 20 Clics to make it straight...but thats so loud so the other Persons around thinks im an Idiot becaus i�m too dump to close my fuelcap right... so...it�s lightweight, it works, i�m happy with the Result!
NEXT ... doing my Gemballa Exhaust to the 996. Sorry, no Pics for that. It�s quieter as i thought! But it gets louder when the get warm... so it�s fine for me! Picture is an older one from the day i install the exhaust Pipes. I like it like that... perfect size.
NEXT: Install a new Climate Display from AliExpress. Fits PERFECT, works PERFECT, looks similar to the original one. Maybe the Letters are a little bit different. Bt you only see that if you look on an original one. So for me: i don�t care. I like it like that.
NEXT: Test my new Rims... ETA BETA Krone, 11x18 with 285/30. When it gets lower next Weekend i think this going to look great. I have to repaint them... thos red centers looks horrible.
By the way i install my GT3RS Carbon Rear Wing... just for looking. Seems to be good with the rest of the Aero Kit i�ve bought!
Next step will be to create new side parts for the wing, because they get lost somehow...
So... thats enough for one day i think...
Also helps they're one of the lightest OEM wheels (the rears are lighter than the precious 408 hollow spokes) Tires should be here this week then I'll mount them
I installed a wireless backup cam with a 5.8" display mounted in place of the CD storage unit. The cam is from TypeS. I removed the CD storage trays, machined a piece of black starboard (plastic) to fill the hole where the CD holders were. The camera display has a magnetic mount on it so I screwed the magnetic mount to the machined piece of plastic and cut a slot for the USB cable to go down to the USB port I installed using the cell phone connector plug in the center console.
New starter. Started slow cranking when hot about 6 months ago. Now it's amazingly fast regardless of temp. Same thing happened with my Cayenne.
No pics, didn't happen. So here's pics.
New/old
Plenum out, easy access to electrical and upper bolt (please disconnect your battery first...)
Lower bolt access is easy with a long extension under the alternator, just like the Bentley calls out.
If anyone wants either old starter, they are yours for the price of shipping (which is a lot these days, guessing $30?) PM if yes.
Mine became a limo car, with its own bar. Cars and biers .
Mini bar, bottles of my bourbon blend. Lowest octane there is 90 proof. There is some 125 proof in there and some old grand dad 114, fire breathing dragons. Thanks
Liquid moly was sponsoring the event, got some free fuel system cleaner to put in one of my cars.
Many cool cars, 2017�vodoo blue turbo s.
The more the merrier.
Time to rock.
Thanks
Today i�ve installed my KW V3 Coilover.
A little too high on the rear, but it rides AWESOME... i do a perfect height after a couple weeks drive like this...
Thursday my car started having a weird throttle response thing, and went bad really quickly, with a CEL. I guessed it might be a vacuum leak, but it turns out my throttle body failed, broken gear or something, will take photos. Could not get the part on Friday so my Indy have me the loaner 530i. I brought it home and washed it for them. Today I did a paint correction on the bonnet, I don't think the car gets washed too often, if ever... I did iron, clay bar, alcohol wipe and single stage polish, then finished with a ceramic sealant polish by McKees. I'm hoping he'll give me a discount on the work haha. Tomorrow I'll do the roof and trunk, and the headlights, they're so bad ... Car has 179k miles on it.
my Indy has been good to me, just paying it forward.
Replaced the Airbag Control Module under the center console and cleared the Airbag light. Bought a used module off Ebay for $80 in lieu of a new unit for $1,100. YAY!
Thanks, I may take you up on your offer,. I'm still trying to isolate the issue. I updated my original post on the airbag issue. Basically I'm not sure I got the correct wire and if it is the correct wire, how to use it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...estions-2.html
I purchased that mini duck tail off ebay . It was advertised as a " Singer style " ducktail . I like the subtle look . It is held on with 3M double sided tape .
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Short list, long day...
Replaced:
Driver side window regulator
Alternator
Alternator cable
Oil sending unit
Now time for bandaids on knuckles and lots of beer!
Got a new set of 200W Bridgestone RE71RS tires last week to try out. Good ratings on the street and tests seem show they may be the fastest 200w tires in the track.
They are quiet on the street which is surprising with the tread pattern. But the rubber is soft and fairly sticky. They are very quiet on the track to the point that they don't talk to you. After 3 sessions I am still searching for the limit on them. Good news is they dont get greasy after a few laps like 100w toyo proxies. Will know more in another month.
Note in the picture below that the Proxies don't line up with the direction of the bridgestones. The heavy wear on the left side of the Proxies is actually the inside of the tire not the outside due to negative camber and street wear. To put it another way, the picture shows what negative camber can do to your tires on the street. Conversely, the left side of the Bridgestone is the outside of the tire and the rightside is the inside. Didn't think to properly display the tires when I took the picture.
From a size standpoint, I went with 225x40x18 in front and 285x30x18 in the rear. I run 15mm spacers and was uncertain if I could fit the 235/295 in the wheel wells. Certainly can, but may need to go with different spacers.
Biggest issue I had was that the tire rack mobile installer had a difficult time getting the rears over the bead on the wheel because the tires are very stiff. Had to take them to my indy which used a strap down the center to get them to spread and on the wheel.
Bottom line: For a 200w tire that you can drive to and from the track, i am pretty impresed. Ill know more next month when i push the car and tires a little harder. Worth a look of you need a set of 200w tires.
I added this spoiler�
It�s polyurethane, it replaces the stock spoiler and attaches to the base the same way, and adds a few extra screws with washers. Really nicely executed.
I then took the car for a 650 mile spin down to Maryland over the weekend� Now I have to take it off and paint it!
My car is a 2002, equipped with a non-MOST bose system. My only complaint is the volume adjustment increments using carplay are significant jumps. The volume settings for all other music inputs are adjustable so I lowered them accordingly. It's not terrible. Using carplay, when the sound level is at 5, it's more like 10 on any other radio. I believe the volume increments goes from 0-30. If you're on the fence, I would do it. The user selected equalizer settings really improves the factory bose system.
Pulled the front & rear seats this weekend and dropped them off at the upholstery shop today. Over the next week or so I'll deep clean the carpet, touch up a few interior scuffs, and do a little paint correction while I'm waiting for the new seats to come back.
Yeah, I took the picture using the wrong side toyo tire in relation to the bridgestone. The wear came on the inside from the camber on the street. Used the toyos for two track days 5 years ago, drove them home and kept them on the car for awhile. Wasnt looking to save them because i didnt like them. Soft rubber just got chewed down. Tires like camber on the track. Tires hate camber on the street. Challenge of doing dual duty street and track.
I hear you. I did a round-trip drive (Chicago/phila) to visit family and friends over Easter to make sure the car was sorted. Had my indy take some camber off the front to about -1 so my car wasn't finding every line on the street. Didn't adjust the camber back before the track day. Haven't had the chance to switch wheels to see how much wear I have on the fronts. But will go back to GT3 specs up front again this month. Just ran out of time to get everything done and adjusted. But the RE71RS has an interesting design witg an angle on the edge that may help. Time will tell.
I do my own strung alignments so my numbers dont look like an alignment machines outpits
Front:
3.8* camber
Caster...unknown but i have adjustable pucks and i just centered the wheel in the wheel well to minimise rubbing on the inner fender.
Tow is 1mm out, meaning if u measure the front of the rim to the string its 1 mm less then the measurement at the back of the rim to the string
Back:
3.5* camber but this may be a little too much. I newd to check the tires again
tow is 1.5mm in, measured the same as above but front of rim is 1.5mm more then the back
I am at gt3 ride heght amd everything is adjustable...so yes the rear tow arms r from Demonspeed. If u dont want race car the tow links from Tarret were real nice and they use the front stock steering arms for the tre end so its cheap to replace if u wear it out.
Don't have my spec sheet here at the office but my indy set it up to GT3 specs back in 2006 and kept the settings the same every year with tarret parts when they aligned it for each season. The wear you are seeing on the inside of the proxy tire is from the effects of negative camber from driving around town on the proxies for 5 years. Hence the internal tire wear. The tires had 2 track days on them from either 2017 or 2018, then just local driving. I got into the habit of running 200w or 100w tires around town on both of my sets of wheels.
2 dents pulled out from the top of the wide hips on my C4S... I read that you have to drill to repair dents in this section, but the guy I used got them out without having to do that. Super impressed
interesting as I'm pretty sure Porsche states that unit is for all Porsches EXCEPT 996s. Looks great and the best thing for the car.
Love the meaty tires... and the rest of the car as well
Looks awesome.
Did you do the installation yourself?
Can you post how it was installed?
What year is your car?
Did it have Bose, or cd changer?
How is it, you like it?
Does it do hand free?
Lessons Learned:
> Blowout on the freeway even on rear tire has a high probability of loss of control leading to a fatal crash.
Car started shifting to the right and left like it wanted to spin.
> If you hear an unusual sound or condition pull over when safe and check it out.
When starting the engine it sounded rough like rocks in a cement mixer, when backing out of the driveway the engine carrier lightly touched the ground. I thought it was only a blown strut so continued on until vehicle started shifting around becoming uncontrollable.
> Be aware of age of tire.
Tires are General G-Max installed 4 years ago and now with 30,000 miles on them. Seems like when purchasing tires they are a year old, so maybe these made five years ago.
> Our 2002 996 does not have tire pressure monitoring system.
There was no instrument indication tire had failed.
>
Great German engineering provided all equipment to easily change flat tire and get back on the road.
Good practice after oil change finished to check spare tire pressure, and jack and handle, lug nut wrench, and lug locking key are present.
The above is very good advice. I decided to use the spare (instead of a winter wheel that would have been handier) to make sure all was present in the toolkit, which it was, but the spare was at 4 PSI !!! Many others have reported the same experience with the spare having virtually no pressure (should be 60 PSI IIRC). If you haven't filled the spare to rated pressue in a long time, it's probably at unusable levels.
Good reminder. I'll check mine as well.
On another note, how long does a spare tire last age wise? Mine would be ~20 years old now. Even at proper tire pressure would it be safe to drive on?
they are definitely not safe to be driving around on. should only be used to get directly to a shop. I would not use mine personally. I keep a tire plugging kit and an air compressor in the frunk. If the hole can't be patched, I call AAA.
Yeah, I've wondered at this point if it's even worth keeping in the car. Same with a tool kit. I usually pack a pretty extensive one when I go on road trips and then I think to myself "what am I actually going to fix on the side of the road?"
The stock temporary spare is 105 95 17 which is 4.1" wide and 24.8" tall. Tirerack.com doesn't have that size but has 115 95 17, that's 4.5" wide and 25.55" tall. I wonder if any clearance problems fitting in the frunk?
When I replace the rear tires I'd like to go with 285 35 18 at 25.84" tall, so I may get the new temporary spare from Tirerack to match the height of the new rears and not have the differential spinning faster on one side compared to the other.
Good idea on checking the spare tire air pressure. I thought the correct way to use the spare is to swap the front tire to the rear and then mount the spare on the front. Never had to do this but it makes sense.
I had a tiny window this weekend to sneak into the Garage... heres a teaser
Will be posting in a "Recaro Seats" thread soon once I have it completed.
Looking like my goal of a theoretical curb weight of 2750 will be in my sights soon.
I reviewed a 996 owner's manual and didn't see a recommendation to only mount the temporary spare on the front wheel. An online rating for the factory spare tire is 1323 lbs, and 1521 lbs for the slightly larger one at Tirerack.com. Those should be enough to safely drive home on surface streets.
can you start a thread on this? So many people could benefit from this, there isn�t much info for installing the single din pccm for us gt3 console deletes
I just finished pulling the front and rear seats . My sea of grey interior needs some contrast . My gray seats will become black leather with gray/black/red/white plaid cloth centers . Will also ask for red stitching to match the shifter boot I already installed .
I was real happy that all electrical connectors were removed without breaking anything . Both front seats are 8 way so enough connectors to make me nervous . I took pics so should go back together with no problems . I am delivering to the upholstery shop tomorrow morning .
Had some work done on the nose.
I'll try to add the information to the other aero kit part thread, but for anyone interested, this is the OEM part # 996-505-980-03-G2X I ordered from Porsche Delaware. The price was $2088.71. It's important to note this part number is listed in the PET as fitting the 996.1 GT3 up to -02 and it comes with the center radiator cut out. This was a surprise to me, but I'm okay with it as I have a center radiator I can put in. It is listed for the Boxster on their site and says it does not fit the 1999 911.
https://www.delawareporscheparts.com...99650598003g2x
. You may notice this is the same part number that people that have bought from Rose Passion have received, but as far as I know, those have all had the center radiator filled like on my factory aero kit cars. There is one other part number that could be replacement for the Carrera aero kit with the filled center but it's twice as much.
https://www.delawareporscheparts.com...
Dropped off all four seats to upholstery dude this morning . He said 3-4 weeks to complete . That includes ordering the material . I am looking forward to seeing the completed results .
Thanks. My upholstery shop in Denver was able to reuse my leather and I supplied the tartan, so I only had the labor cost of removing & disassembling the covers from the seats, cutting, & reassembling/reinstalling the seat covers on the seats. They charged me $500 for the fronts, and are charging another $300-400 for the rears. All in I'll have less than $1000 in upholstery labor for the interior, which seems like a STEAL to me. I ordered the fabric from
https://www.welsh-tartan.com/
after exchanging a lot of emails with their owner, Dan. He said that the heavyweight tartan is upholstery grade, so that's what I went with. The tartan I selected was the MacThomas Ancient tartan since that's an old family tartan of mine.
Here are the fronts installed. I really love the look with the Lapis Blue.
Well it looks great, and seems like a really good price.
I especially like the family tartan connection.
I'm tempted to do something similar to my front seats.
Yes you want to disconnect the battery before you disconnect any electrical connections on the seats . And leave the battery disconnected until the seats are plugged back in .
I did not. Frankly, didn't even occur to me. I do have an airbag warning light I need to address but I think I must've just misconnected the harness a bit.
Threw on some Iggees because I was tired of the cracked-*** leather and didn't feel like spending 2k on upholstery.
Although after seeing some of the cool tartan seats in this thread lately I am having second thoughts...
Just an oil/filter change. I bought a cheap oil extractor pump from Lidl and figured I'd give it a try as it was only about $15. I drain my oil into a basin that has a spout and usually pour it into empty oil bottles. That can be messy. So I used the pump today and it worked well, albeit a lot more slowly than I expected. I will use it again as there was no spilled oil at all.
I put them on yesterday. I went with Michelin Pilot Sport 4s in 245/40 18 and 295/30 18. I have center caps on order. The wheels are very light. I can definitely feel the difference in how nimble the car feels. Plus, with 18s, not as stiff.
Before:
After:
The story of how I found them here:
Winter Projects Completed followed by Road Trip - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
Installed my secondhand aero bumper after giving up trying to get a body shop scheduled. Gonna rock the mismatched ugly duckling look this summer then get it all painted after the driving season. Probably going to order some vinyl for the rocker panels, as they�re completely unpainted.
Tex, looks good. You may know the answer to this question. Is there any difference between the 997 3.6 and 3.8 airboxes as it relates to using on the 996? Thanks man.
I took mine on the local PCA Memorial Day drive.
About 50 of us drove to the Museum of the American GI.
Here’s some pictures from inside the museum too:
I believe the 997 3.6 & 3.8 airboxes are similar but I�m not certain.
I do know that the 997 3.8 airbox flows better than the 996 airbox.
The only person who would know for certain is Jake Raby.
He has flow tested everything that�s available.
I believe all the test data will be in his upcoming M9x Performance book.
Tested out mt newly made low buck alignment hub stands. So far u have about $500 into them. Much lower then the $1500-15,000 stands that r out there. Confirmed what i was reading from tire wear that the camber on the rear drivers was off. I also reset the pass rear so they 3.3* camber and 2mm toe in measured 19" apart. Not sure how that measures in alighment machine degrees? Front was pretty good at 3.8 and 4.0* amd 2mm tie out. Front tire wear looks very even an flat.
Set up with strings.
Rear tire wear
I had the 3.6 and 3.8 airboxes side by side and didn't see any differences other than the brushed aluminum badges. In fact, IIRC, the bottom sections have the same part number. I took a bunch of pics and I can double check.
There has been discussion in other threads about snorkels and having to move the SAI fan a little. I can say in the case of my '99 C2, that the 3.6/3.8 snorkel is plug and play, no modifications needed other than changing
collar that snaps into the engine lid.
It is "Sealing Ring" part #
997.110.250.00.
[/QUOTE]
I lowered the rear of my car 3/4”.
Now my car is even-ish front and back.
Can someone measure their stock height 996.2 at the fender lip and let me know the height?
I’m wondering how mine compares now.
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Hey Bruce - What front bumper and splitter do you have? I could probably find it looking through posts but thought I'd ask.
BTW looks like an awesome museum. It's rare to see so much armor in one place!
Thanks,
Steve
Was short 2 quarts for oil change so gonna try Porsche's official 5W-50. The other 7 quarts are Mobil 1 5W-50.
Says "Engineered in Weissach" and "Made in Germany", don't know if that refers to the can or oil where it was engineered and produced.
Picked it up from a suspension refresh: New struts/shocks, upper mounts, bearings, bump stops, dust boots, rear tires. More cowbell: Tarrett GT3-style adjustable rear bar/links.
Shenandoah Valley shakedown cruise, coming up!
The cup lip will fit the non-aero .2 cover with a Dremel trim on the ends which extend about an inch past the wheel arch. Had one on mine and it looks stellar�makes the visual much more balanced.
This one:
https://www.demonspeedmotorsports.co...6SpoilerSQ.htm
Or this one?
https://www.demonspeedmotorsports.co...6SpoilerRQ.htm
Or will they both fit?
As cool as it is to see such a fine thing, I would hate to drive that car on that road. The Thruway is an abysmal strip of pavement, filled with the dregs of driving society. I dread every second I'm on it.
Double-dated: my wife and I in our 996 and our friends in their 986 - topdown driving some fine backroads east of Seattle, had brunch and explored some more. A blissful PNW day in an amazing car!!
2001 911 Carrera Cabriolet
No problem, at least it's a full blooded Porsche, and a nice one at that !! Cayman would be my choice if it had more head room...the extra cargo space in the hatch is a big ++++ !!
Gosh, that looks very much like this guy’s 996 project from a day or two ago. Can’t mistake that paint color! I do think this current car should use a roof air scoop.
What happened with that 996? It looked awesome.
I actually like the 996 headlights -- wouldn't change them if I could. The 996 was a leap forward on modernization from the air-cooled 911s, so (to me) the aero headlights and overall style absolutely fit the car.
It's just so clich� to hate on the 996 lights that I had to say something ...
Absolutely100% !! That was the first thing I loved about the 996 when it came out.....then as the "headlight hate" started to grow I just kept shaking my head...lol
yes im much better now.
back to wrenching on cars for fun. I also paint porsches as a side gig now. Done quite a few this year.
oof I dont even remember. Might have been the GT3 replica. I had modded it(exhaust exits and wheel flares) to look a little different then what I bought.
L
Last fall I hit a set of rail road tracks that rattled my teeth, and apparently bending one rim near the core. I have 2 front rims on order, and will have them powder coated when they arrive.
So, my question for the forum is, I can either stay with gloss black, or now is the time for change, and I'm looking for ideas for color that would go well with the Paladium Metalic.(light gold)
I have some ideas, but lets hear yours.
TIA Greg
Definitely quite a result, but this fact has to hurt: "...a new Porsche M97 short block along with a corresponding clutch at approximately 16k miles in February 2023 by the specialists at Drivers Choice Motors of Florida, at a reported cost of $39k."
That sure takes some shine off the profit margin.
I'd love to see light gold on your car. IMHO, I think black wheels get lost easily on the car from a visual perspective. I like to have some contrast between the tire and rim.
Im not a fan of all black wheels, but I do love black wheels with a polished/ machined lip. I know Ive seen the Turbo Twists in black with a machined lip and it looked really good.
I would take the opportunity to change from all black, it's so played out. Check some of the picture threads here and on the 997 board for some ideas. Good luck with whatever you decide.
After staring at the parts sitting on the bench for a month I finally swapped these out. Wasn�t as bad as I thought it was gonna be.
Did Porsche put in Beru branded plugs from the factory or have these been replaced already? The coils are also stamped Beru.
I replaced the brake pads, mounting hardware dampers and brake wear sensors on all 4 wheels. Used the OEM Texar pads since everyone seems to like them for normal use. I measured the rotors a week ago and they're still in spec so I left those alone. Total cost $530 (those @$%&# dampers add up!) I also attempted to clean all the years worth of balance weight glue and God knows what else off the inside of the rims and applied a spray wax to them. The whole thing took about a week. I started last Saturday. When I saw how bad the wear sensors looked I ordered some (along with the dampers) and waited for them to come in before finishing up.
Some observations:
-It's amazing how quickly the second one goes after you figured the first one out. First corner on the front took almost an hour. The second about 5 minutes. Same for the rear.
-It's also amazing how easily you can put something in when you KNOW it goes there. I was convinced the 30mm shims on the back wouldn't fit into any of the holes until I did some googling & confirmed the 28mm goes on the top & the 30mm on the bottom.
-I don't think there is a product known to man that will remove all that old glue off the rims without removing the paint/clear coat. The wheel cleaners don't touch it, not even P21S. WD-40 and Goo Gone get about 75% of it off
@Gregs04.5
my cars meridian metallic. Here is a pic with silver wheels, and a pic w black. I have some bronze Momo heritage 6's on order. When they arrive, the twists are going to be refurbished and powder coated or painted, and I'm thinking a gloss black, as they were (I think) a factory option at the time. But I'm open to suggestions from the forum as well. Maybe Carrera red or yellow, something bold. Since my paint is so neutral pretty much anything will work. The renndecals Carrera decal can be changed easily as well. Though https://renndecals.com/ is down and has been for a while, Chris is still responding to emails at [email removed].
Greg what color did you end up doing? Light gold and dark 'blood' cherry red or crimson would be nice I think.
To get the wheel weight glue off I spray a little bug/tar remover (I use Tarminator) on a rag and rub hard. This should not take any clearcoat/paint off unless someone sprayed it with a rattle can. You'll have to rub hard, sometimes I use a piece of plastic. Just keep at it, it will come off.
Dang, I wish I had known. I have a set of Textar pads with less than 100 miles on them (too dusty for me). I would've made you a smokin' deal.
My '99 C2 left the factory with Bosch plugs and Beru coil packs. Porsche specs both Beru and Bosch for plugs so I guess it's possible they could have used either at the factory.
Replaced my H7 standard Halogen low beams with LED's from Amazon. You have to buy the ones without the fan on top so it will fit.
Amazon
Amazon
Old on the left, LED on the right.
Fits perfect!
Thanks! I bookmarked the page.
Thank you for the tip. I'll keep the Tarminator in mind too.
Ugh! Oh well. I'll see how dusty they are. Someone put Brembos on the rears. The fronts looked like Texar but I notice the new ones have two metal cylinders on the top. Looks like they either serve as a heat sink or a wear indicator.
Those weights are a tuned mass damper that is intended to prevent the pads from resonating and making excessive noise.
To get rid of the dreck inside the wheel barrels try kerosene, gasoline, and/or oven cleaner. Not all at once.
I've pretty much decided to go with Gunmetal or pewter, as soon as my rims arrive, I'll look closer at sample swatches. I no longer want black, and silver is too light.
I'll definitely post pics when I get them on, may take another week or so.
Greg
picked up 2 E28�s and 2 E88�s. Ordered 4 more e28 faces, 2 e88 faces, 6.5 inner barrels, and (4) 2.5 lips to build myself two set of wheels this summer/fall. I�m looking for 2 more 6.5 barrels.
Not yet, I'll try and do that within the next week and let you know. I did have them on this morning but it wasn't dark, it was just kind of darkish. So I haven't really seen how they look on the pavement yet.
I drove down to Cambridge MD for IM 70.3 Eagleman this weekend and really enjoyed two hours of stop-n-go traffic on the bay bridge. But that brought a slight front end noise to my attention.
After re-torquing every suspension bolt up front this morning, I thought I would check on that space-saver spare that has never been used in 20yrs. And it worked! Had to remove the valve core to get the tire to inflate at first, but it held air like a champ and even snapped back into compact shape when I let the air out. I�m going to ignore the Sep 2003 date code and feel better about the spare probably working if I ever need it.
They were originally made in 5 stud Porsche fitment as many factory racecars frequently used them : 964, 993 and 996 :
Images of an ex-race car set on a UK road 964 here :
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...eometry-6.html
I installed a Function First shifter bushing kit . Took my time it was much easier because my seats are out . Can't drive it until I get my seats back from the upholstery shop . But sitting still shifter movement feels smooth and precise .
A couple of weeks ago I bought my 996 a daily driver. For over 6 years it has been a half-time daily driver along with my Vanagon Syncro the other half. Well, these 2 cars are excellent: 996 C4S perhaps the perfect sports car / 911 but sometimes not so practical. The Syncro perhaps the best utility vehicle every made, can do anything and everything except go fast, and can be uncomfortable. So I needed something in between, in the middle. They kept saying, "hey Grandpa you need to get an SUV". So I got an SUV. (You know, 4-5 seats, big hatch area - I can't stand all those egg shaped thingys that we actually call SUVs).
Or call it a towne car, or an estate car. Really like it, I've been wanting an Audi A4 Avant for probably 2-3 years, great for zipping around town or freeway cruising. Excellent service history and in very good condition, I found the window sticker in the owner's manual portfolio, 2 owners who took great care of the car. It is the base "Premium" model with good options: Not black-white-grey-or-silver, light colored interior, excellent sport package, wood inlays, the stance is like the S4 Avant. ... .... .... ..... And now we'll keep the miles lower on the C4S.
@TexSquirrel
I went out early this morning to check them out. I took pics but they came out crappy. Bottom line, I think they're fine. No glare for oncoming vehicles and they seem to illuminate just as well, if not a bit better, than the Sylvania Ultra's I had in there. So I'm leaving them in!
I also purchased a set of H3's for the fog lights.
Link to Item
Link to Item
I'll be putting those in later today. If they work out, I'm going to buy the high beams, H9,
Link to Item
Link to Item
Great looking Avant! I've always preferred "estate cars" over SUVs but I can't get my wife to agree. She prefers the 958 Turbo Cayenne we have but I'd swap it for an estate wagon for sure. Congratulations on the find. Sounds like you got a nice one.
@sasilverbullet
I�ve been considering a mini split for my garage. How well does it work in the Texas heat? Do you have an insulated garage door? I got a quote for $4200 for Mitsubishi system but there�s a $1200 rebate which makes it fairly reasonable if it works well. How well does it recover after you�ve opened the door and closed it?
just curious if you�ve found it worth the investment. I do most of my own work on both my old cars so I�m out there a lot.
LOVE IT!!! Trick is you have to insulate the doors (easy, did it myself) AND have extra insulation blown in over the ceiling. I also have my 2 garage ventilation vents covered over with cardboard.
Best $3,500 I've ever spent!
^^ Love the mini split. I've been thinking about adding climate control to our garage as I'm doing more projects out there. There's plenty of tinkering and maintenance I can do on a 20yo Porsche in a cooler garage!
Wagon + p car is the best combo. I have a BMW e91 for family hauling and the 986 for fun/sanity.
Question for the gang: my tombstone seats are agitating my neck by pushing me right at c5/c6 where I already have some bulging disc or whatever (it makes my left forefinger and thumb numb). I'm thinking I can get rid of this with a new seat and have been looking at the various recaro options. I guess if I could find some 996 sport seats w heat in beige I could try those... but would LOVE to hear from any folks on successful seat transplants and what they used.
Did you use one of the kits from the big box stores for the garage door insulation or did you buy the big sheets and cut them to size? Did you do anything to seal up the sides?
Appreciate the info!
Kit, no, just bought the sheets and used liquid nails in a tube to glue them to the door. Didn't need to seal up the sides, already pretty good. Today it was almost 100 and it was 72 in there while I was working! Also, the heat function in the winter works great also. Generally, summer I keep it at 80, winter 60. I've had that for 2 years now.
Do you recall what size unit (BTUs) that quote was for? I'm going to be moving a few miles inland at the end of the summer and it's enough to put me out of range of the ocean breeze I get now so I'm thinking mini split.
The garage door is already insulated and I'm going to be adding insulation to the ceiling. Doing some searching, the internet recommends 9000-20,000 BTUs for a standard 2 car garage. I'm thinking 12,000ish BTUs should do it but what do I know
I use 12,000 BTUs in my 12x12 shed/auxiliary building/detached office and I can keep temps at 68 in the high heat of the summer. For a full sized 2 car garage 12-15 is where I'd want to shake out in terms of cooling power. The mitsubishi units are super efficient. The daikin mini splits have a good reputation as well.
The quote I got was for a 15k btu 1.25 ton for my standard two car garage. The AC guy said the 15k is what they put in most garages and gives you a little overhead to compensate for the general poor insulation of a garage. The quote included adding the pad for the outside unit as well as any electrical that was needed.
Hope that helps!
Pre-swap. My Graphite Gray console was looking worse for the wear.
Found a black console on the �Bay in nice shape.
End product. Swap was easy after watching a few YT videos. I also found some used black door pull covers to pull it together. Now the sea of gray has some nice contrast. Cheers all!
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Too tired to post last week after finishing so I am posting today. Pulled off the front bumper and removed 5 years of garbage from the radiators, repositioned the nonworking XM radio antenna on the inner metal bumper. Then washed and ceramic coated the body and wheels. Not sure why people pay $$$$ for ceramic coating as it only cost $39 at NAPA. Mine is the red one.
Just got home to San Diego after completing the Everyday Driver Utah Adventure.
Odometer rolled past 144K during the drive, almost to 145,000mi now. Car behaved flawlessly.
The event was amazing, great roads, breathtaking scenery, extended periods of high speed driving.
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I replaced my driver side window regulator.
Found out someone else had been in the door before...unless back in 2001 the Porsche factory used silver duct tape on the foam insulation.
Took the time while the battery was unhooked to run two wires from my cutoff switch to the firewall.
Even with the air-conditioning running my garage was 93F so I decided I'd leave some butt splices and finish running it to the fuse/power for the ECU/FI/Fuel pump for some cooler day.
How difficult was the window regulator R&R? My passenger window interferes with the door opening when all the way up. Door card is still off as piece the interior back together. Trying to decide if I get by with an adjustment or go ahead and replace the regulator.
Busy 2 evenings. Its time for maintenance with 9 track days down and 3 days at pittrace coming up it was time for trans and engine oil change along with purging a few onces out of each caliper.
Also got a set of new shoes (nt-01s) as the current ones probably only have a day left.
Well, today I installed new locking cylinders on my Roof Transport System for my 03 C4S. Now I have three of these (part number is 996 801 209 00) available to anyone who may want them (just pay for some shipping to wherever you are).
Couple weeks ago I was on I-83 on the way to a race with my bike. Didn't have one of these guys locked, so it flew off the roof rack at highway speed. I did stop to look for it, but it was gone in the Maryland highway grass. So I have now replaced all four (thanks Suncoast), and have these three available to anyone that would need them. Maybe you lost one as well and don't want to buy the whole set. Send me a PM if you are interested or these would be helpful to you.
I've been busy the past couple of months.. I finished my M96 build a few weeks ago and its running fine so far for my 986S- to gain some confidence for building my M96.04 in my 01.
I also cleaned up a set of BBS wheels I had bought for my 996 before I got intermix- shameless plug, they are for sale to help offset some costs of the rebuild.
--Aaron
It's an easy R&R.
But it's also an easy adjustment.
Lower your window almost all the way. (I go until ~1" from the bottom)
Pull the rubber grommets off the bottom of the door and use an E7 e-torx.
(Inner grommets are for the nuts holding the regulator to the door, Outter grommets are for adjustments)
Turn clockwise to lower the window.
Here's a picture of the adjustment rod:
Looks great. I've been following your two builds. That boxster build is (obviously) of great interest to me! I love that you got the car post fire. I'd be curious to know what the resurrection/rehab costs you all-in.
Good luck selling the wheels!
Started hearing/feeling some misc thunks and clunks in the drivetrain over the last couple of months so decided to do these first since they are original with 55K on them.
Looks like it was about time. Old one on the left.
Made a noticeable difference.
Spent 90 minutes ripping Squaw Pass Road from Evergreen to Idaho Springs, then HWY 119 (Peak to Peak Highway) from outside Golden to Central City. Windows down, radio off, 4k-6k RPM. Glorious! Too busy driving to take photos.
Here are two shots from the same drive last September. Still looks the same, but the car's a bit improved since then.
I finished a brake job I thought I finished two weeks ago. Don�t forget to fully unwrap your toys before you play with them kids! Can I get a �Heeere�s your sign�?
Not today but washed and took a picture a couple days ago. Hopefully this is the last picture with the current suspension setup. I'm hoping to install H&R RSS coil-overs next week or so. Also doing new coils/plugs/oil while I'm at it.
I couldn't take the loud squeaking ball joints so I replaced the front control arms. Here are the old ones. The bushings weren't too bad on either arm. The ball joints would squeak when I moved them by hand. I went with Meyle for the primary control arms. I had to go cheap aftermarket for the support arm as Meyle arms are out of stock everywhere and Porsche ones are way too expensive. Overall this was a pretty easy job and everything went without issues.
Replaced bezel around radio and AC. Removing the lighter was tricky. The electrical contact part sits inside a clear bezel and is a press fit. I had to find something (end of a flashlight in my case) to hold the bezel while I hit the end of the lighter with a mallet. Popped right out. All the switches just pop in and out. The old bezel had that soft touch coating which looks and feels weird, so I have been replacing it all.
Cheers!
The "new" Porsche support arms supersede to the 997 arms which is a bit of a problem since the opening where they bolt to the control arms is much wider and requires spacers. Not sure why Porsche did that- probably so they only have to make 1 version of the arm.
Not to cause too much topic drift but can you explain that a bit more? I did a full suspension refresh last year with all Genuine Porsche suspension arms and did not have to use spacers anywhere. I did need longer bolts in one location, that was it.
Well today I was at Mosport but it was my first chance to try out my new additions.
1. A used short shifter�bought it off a guy already installed in a console for $40. The throws are comically short and the action is quite heavy, mitigated a little by a Raceseng slammer shift **** I had lying around.
2. A small powered sub�my car had the base system so no door speakers, and even with a relatively high-powered head unit and quality aftermarket speakers, there was no bump at all.
The sub is a Pioneer TS-WX130DA, and despite my best attempts at measuring, it is a little big for the space I picked, the vertical surface under a rear seat. So the rear seat pad doesn�t sit down quite all the way, but it is not noticeable and nobody ever sits there so it all good.
The sub only draws 4 A, so I used the phone plug and a harness I bought from Renn Classic. The wires I routed under the center console.
Don�t worry I bundled them nicely.
I used genuine Porsche screw-in Velcro pads to fix the sub.
I could not quite tuck the cords out of sight but it�s not too visible.
How�s the sound? I listen to mostly heavy alternative rock at elevated volumes, but even then the sub actually has more power than I need. But with its small size, the very low frequency tones are a little weak. It took a lot of fiddling with the settings to minimize mid-bass boominess and to get relatively equal bass response across the spectrum, but overall I am very pleased. Can�t hear the (Fister mod) exhaust any more though! Lol Next project�?
Started replacing my radiators and hoses. ~130k miles -- still had the original radiators and hoses from 1999.
Debris stuck between the radiator and condenser. Less than I expected but my C2 has spent it's entire life in southern coastal California.
The CSF 7044 radiators didn't quite fit because the cores are much thicker than stock. To provide some clearance, I trimmed back the body slightly and hit it with some Rust-Oleum for protection.
The base system is also known as the "no bass" system
Thanks for sharing. Those low-profile subs are surprisingly powerful. You might want to post your sub in this audio upgrades thread ==>
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...s-in-here.html
There's running discussion of low profile subs in that thread.
Finished installing passenger side CSF 7044 radiator -- just like the driver's side, the body needed a bit of trimming...
Trimmed under the passenger side headlight and hit with some paint (inside and out) for protection
Trimmed behind the passenger sidemarker
The radiator shroud on the passenger side had a crack so I tried my hand at plastic welding. Used some thing stainless steel mesh to add strength. This is the backside so the repair isn't visible once assembled
Shrouds back on and everything buttoned up. Just waiting on a few rubber/plastic bits for the front bumper before reinstalling.
Today I upgraded my MY04 C4S…47000…CAI to the GT3 TB. The plan was to switch to Competition but budget constraints say do it on the cheap. The “Solar” adapter is $105…new OEM TBS R $325 & Up…aftermarket are $150-200…and I found a used one for less than $100 do this upgrade less than $250. Competition IPD IS $895…
Easy enough to remove the intake and TB. The adapter adds about 1inch and larger TB require making room by twisting plenum upward. Hmmm. this may be an issue (-1).
. Adapter requires attachment via 4 screws and it’s a hooked hole so the bolts can be tightened. Without removal of PE reservoir it’s a tight fit and I needed a 2inch stubby that I had to make myself. Most stubby are 4-5 inches. Too long.
TB hooked up without a hitch but my Fabspeed 1st generation Left hook Carbon Fiber intake was now out too far to miss the fan housing. I shortened the coupler position and got it placed and able to close the engine lid.Fired it up and she hiccuped a bit then smoothed out. I let her idle while ECU learned.
I love the look of 997S cars due to metal plenum so IPD checked that box…yay!
mods already on car
Fabspeed Cans
Fabspeed Intake
997S headers
Short shift kit(doesn’t fix the acceleration lag the Edrive cars have..Yes; it’s a thing…
Sportec Wheels.w/ wheel spacers 17mm rear…5mm front on Michees PS4…Stock Turbo twist auto cross shoes…Pilot Sport Cup2s
Stainless Steel brake lines
Stoptech Cross-drilled and Slotted Rotors …carbon break pads
m030 lowered suspension
Time for a drive. Okay…car feels and pull stronger or just wishful thinking. Normally car starts to ge5 crisp around 3200 rpm and pulls to WOT…the headers did that with the most spine tingling WOP but now it’s starting at 3000. Ask the Hemi charger…they usually pull away but not today. I don’t believe I lost power JakeO…maybe with all the mods. It’s making me want to get the tune now even more. For me…car is already scary fast but when did that ever stop anybody…lmao.
who wouldn’t want an upgrade to a 9924S or GTS..or the Hybrid911…of course they’re better cars but EVERY TIME… w/o fail I go look at them then get back in this one. I quickly forget what I just saw…lol. Fun day…
The adapter metal is very bright
The dual pipe current generation Fabspeed dual intake angles downward…
First Black 911R I’ve seen
Which on3 would you pick? …blue one
Yup, correct parts according to CSF's website:
https://csfrace.com/csf_products/dir...stems/#996_986
@De Jeeper
You have a 996.1, right? Strange... :/
/shrug
OK, I splurged for the Hightower RS-style door pulls when Pelican Parts had 10% off.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...RSDOORPULL-RED
I think I like them, except for the price.
I also wish my Porsche MOMO horn button would be more reliable.
I guess I need to buy a new one.
I thought mine was fixed, but it stopped honking again.
At least the MOMO button work great.
Also to tick off the 996 purists, I swapped back to the round headlights. (Don't worry, the 996 shaped headlight will return before too long)
Recently I also added a new sticker to the rear window:
I've toyed with an aftermarket wheels but airbag, and the smaller diameter might mess with that perfectly framed view of the cluster that the OEM wheel provides. But yeah they look cool and I bet they are great to drive with. Nice upgrade!
"Short shift kit(doesn�t fix the acceleration lag the Edrive cars have..Yes; it�s a thing�"
Of course it would not solve the throttle response issue. You can either fix it with a tune (I used vrtune) or I think there's a dedicated 'fix' out there somewhere -
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...or_Booster.htm
For the price the ecu remap makes more sense. Especially since you have aftermarket intake and exhaust. I have no idea how much horsepower or torque I gained or lost with vrtune, but for the ability to properly heel n toe or even just double de-clutch, it's worth it to me.
Meh, I drive cars all the time without an airbag.
I don't miss having a 20+ year old explosive device on my steering wheel.
But yes, the smaller diameter steering wheel does block the very top part of the tachometer.
But the difference in steering feel is worth it IMHO.
Putting the heads in our 4.0 build for our C4 cab
4.0 Carillo pistons and rods
ported heads
catted X-pipe, Fister mod mufflers
should run real nice!
I have a really good helper!
Installing Bank 1 head
It's similar to the Momo Mod 07 black edition which retails for $400. I got the Porsche Classic wheel for $440 w/ 10% off from Pelican Parts. I like this wheel more because the Momo Mod 07's leather has a heavy grain to it. Also, I prefer the Porsche horn button.
If you look closely, you can see the wheel hub spacer I used to move the wheel up. It prevents any vision impairment of the instrument cluster. Especially since my GT3 buckets sit lower using the Brey Krause side mounts. I'm very happy with my seating position now. The wheel offset isn't noticeable when parking or making U-turns.
Thanks Mark ! quite a journey is a good way to put it
Running on 8 and has 85PSI of oil pressure so... we'll say good enough for now. Time to get to buttoning stuff up, getting an exhaust made and on the dyno to get the ECU calibrated.
Hopefully we get through that stuff relatively drama free and then I can have an opportunity to enjoy it,
Removed the leads from the top, used my lift bar
Removed the tire, used a 19mm low profile crows foot,
No grinding required, fit just fine. I preferred from below, better visibility on the sensor.
Also let me use some degreaser to make sure it seated well. All in about 90 min. Very satisfying do it yourself.
You
Short drive and nice and dry. New sensor fop left, It�s a very good day.
I have a lot of respect for the scope of your project and your tenacity to get it running. Most won�t understand the challenges with doing what you have. Cheers!
I didn�t do this all today (almost exactly one year from engine drop to first start). But my 4l runs and now has 25 miles on it. I think this will be a fun car once again.
Installed new engine mounts.
Spraying the 18mm nuts with PB B�LASTER the night before really helped.
I couldn�t believe that they came off with no problem!
That�s not bad good considering I�m pretty sure they were original.
It�s a relatively easy DIY
Likewise man - the thought of putting an M96 together is a pretty daunting for me.
Anyone that gets through that process successfully is demonstrating a commendable level of attention to detail and mechanical aptitude as far as I�m concerned.
Wish you many happy miles with it.
Replaced the battery, was pleasantly surprised when I was expecting to pay $250 and they warrantied it, had no idea it was even still under warranty. Then drove it for the first time in 3-4 months. I keep going back and forth on selling it, feels like a shame to let it sit but I hold out hope once my youngest is in a booster and in school full time I will have more opportunities to use it.
I have recently installed, rather, paid to have installed, new radiators in my '01 C2. I had previously used grills from the radiatorgrillstore.com, but I didn't have much faith in them, they didn't fill the intakes. These admittedly more pricey grills from
https://www.zunsport.com/us/product/...=76&filter=201
clip on in front of the intakes and in my opinion provide more protection. I like the way they look. My car is meridian metallic so I paid the extra for black nylon coating on the stainless steel grills. The center one is for show only, and screws into the plastic backing, very easily. If you're running a center rad or tiptronic they have other options.
Peter at Zunsport provides purchasers with a membership card. One of the perks is 15% off for anyone using your member number. If you want the savings, pm me.
Wow, that will be a very quick little q ship! I'm jealous. I don't have bore scoring, at 99,100 miles, and so far engine runs fine thank God, so I'm paying I can avoid a rebuild. That's an expernsive operation. I've spent so much on maintenance and service history backlog stuff, I almost feel I should have done the engine first. Though, much of the expenses I've incurred would still have been necessary. I am considering timing work. But now I've learned that the 5 chain engines need the case split to change the long chain that links the ims to the top end, (cams?). So the timing chain(s) can only be partially done. Maybe I'll just try the vari pads replacement and cross my fingers. Both my cam deviations are in the -5 range. I guess it's entirely possible that I can get 150k miles or more without spending anything, if I keep fresh oil and keep the engine free from overrevs. That's my hope anyway. Enjoy your new engine👍👍👍 It will be a massive upgrade no doubt!
New set of rear brakes. The Pagid yellow 29s hold up pretty good as i got 19 track days out of these. I have a set of the yellow 19s enduro pad im putting on, only because they were on my shelf. I doubt ill feel much difference. The fronts should have another 5 days.
Also pulled the front bumper cause it takes some abuse getting on the toterhome. I have to fix 2 cracks with some panelbond and an alumimum tab for reinforcement.
Speaking of the toterhome. Did a bunch of deffered maintenence on it. Fuel filter, 2 oil filters, 8 gal oil change, 2 tubes of grease, 3 cans of brake clean and a full roll of towels for clean up. It should be ready for another 30k miles.
Fyi, The Girodisc caliper piston spreader is a little pricey but makes it a 5 min pad change.
My frunk actuator was finnicky when the car arrived and finally died right after I received my replacement part. I was slow to do the job because the replacement part is a supersede part and the grommet/nipple thing was on the opposite way of my factory part. I spent a week or so going back and forth with Pelican to confirm I had the right item. By then the old actuator gave up the ghost. Here's the two parts:
If you look closely, you'll see that the grommet is backwards on the new part (old part left, new part right) - so I had to try and stuff the fat end through the much smaller hole. I did the best I could.
I watched a few youtubes and set about going after the manual release cable. I started by opening up the driver's side wheel well:
To my dismay, I didn't see ANYTHING that looked like a cable to pull. So I decided to open up the passenger side and try my luck over there.
That got her done. That said, the loop wasn't visible. I basically wedged the fender liner out of the way, stuck my arm in, and felt around:
I felt a cable way up on the frunk side of my headlight. I grabbed the loop and pulled it firmly and my frunk opened! Hard to see this thing from outside:
It will be much easier to find next time!
I had a little trouble getting the latch to take after swapping the actuators. I ended up needing to reach into the cavity with the latch and take back some slack from the manual release. All in all, a pleasing 8/10 experience jacking with my 20 year old car.
I aired up the spare, added a 4 spoke tire iron, and put some jumper cables in the bottom. I'll be ready to road trip next week.
She was looking a little plain, so I went ahead and added some graphics...my homage to the 2.7RS...Carrera 3.6 is a little off on the ducktail, - should prolly be about 1/2-3/4" to the right., and maybe 1/2' higher..I may replace. Pretty happy with how it turned out tho!
Replaced the terrible Blaupunkt headunit that the previous owner installed with a new Continental unit. Installation was a breeze with the Bergvill harness. Next items will be painting the center console in Seal Grey Metallic to match the exterior and having the steering wheel rewrapped by Dallas Custom.
Used some Clearcoat on the PSE switch to make it glossy & consistent with the other 996.1 switches
.
Also got around the Nav unit code issue (PCM1 was asking for it after a battery disconnection period, but not accepting the ones on my card) by removing the head unit and unplugging / re-plugging the black & blue connectors.
I�m still on the fence between getting a good phone mount and Bluetooth unit for the PCM1, or putting in a CarPlay unit (which doesn�t really cost any more, saves weight and is more functional, but less original).
Found an X-51 intake which will be installed. Installed a new fuel pump and today I will replace the three radiators with a set of new CSF radiators. I had to order a new Power steering return line and lower reservoir. I just didn�t like the looks of the ones that came on this engine. Next to install is catted X-pipe and Fister modified mufflers
Making progress!
@168Sierra
The X51 intake will look great on there! You might already know this, but just in case, the X51 intake has a small vacuum line that runs to the intake tube at the TB. Not sure if this applies here and how the other vacuum line connects but here are a few photos from my set up.
Justin,
Jake’s intakes is not ready yet, plus my walle t needs a little time to recover. When I get his intake the XZ-51 intake will get moved to Tina’s car ( the one we took on the Dragon run last December).
I have been following your car, It is looking really good. We will have to meet up again sometime soon.
Mark
I'm not 100% sure but it's part of the X51 package. It seems like your engine is a complete rebuild so it may not be needed but good that you have it blocked off. Last thing you'd want is a vacuum leak back there. It looks like it comes off a specific venturi valve back there but unfortunately I do not know what it specifically does.
Thanks, I will do some research on that. Progress today, got all three radiators replaced with CSF. My new power steering reservoir and return hose arrived. Got them installed along with intake manifolds. LN wants to scan the X-51 runner so it goes off to the scanner tomorrow. I may install the standard runners or I can wait for the X-51 runner to get back. Tomorrow I will install fuel injectors and exhaust, check the transmission mount and oil. Need to take my turbo out for a drive tomorrow.
Great color combination! I will echo the question....who made the graphics. And also what spoiler is that?
I have the "blue Chevrolet" of 911s....Arctic Silver with black and have been looking for a secondary color other than the usual blue, black, dark gray....
Realized my registration was out of date by almost a year after going to hit some golf *****. Only discovered this because I tried to turn the radio on and forgot I had changed the battery and was looking for the radio code. Of course, the code in the owners manual doesn't work. I remember there was a code written down with the aftermarket radio that I tossed a while ago and I could have sworn I kept that piece of paper or took a picture and now I cant find it. RIP
I got the radio out. Its a CD 220, the label with the serial and model number say Becker. They do not match the code card in my owners manual so it was changed at some point. Any idea on next steps?
I'm gonna drive Dallas -> Houston -> Brenham -> Canyon Lake -> Waco -> Dallas this weekend. Excited for the car time and gonna do my best to stay off the interstates!
Justin
Our goal is to get this engine in the C4 cab and then take it to Rennsport Reunion at the end of Sep. Then go up the Pacific coast and back to TN via a northern route.Another Dragon run in early Dec would be nice. Hopefully better weather this time. we need to arrange lodging closer so we can visit more. I would love to let you try out my care. I really wanted all of you to get to try it out last year,, sorry we couldn’t make it work. We will have to try for at least one more day next time so we ca switch off.
Mark
@fazm I know you did it ask but I�ve been obsessed with chat gpt planned road trips �favoring 2 lane roads.� This is what I got for your route.
Sure, here's a scenic road trip route that favors two-lane roads for your journey:
1. Dallas to Houston: Take the I-45 South to Houston, but consider taking scenic detours on smaller state highways or county roads whenever possible.
2. Houston to Brenham: Head west on US-290 and enjoy the scenic countryside views along the way.
3. Brenham to Canyon Lake: Take the TX-36 South towards Bellville, then head west on TX-159 towards La Grange. From there, continue on TX-71 West towards Columbus. Finally, take the I-10 West and exit onto TX-46 West, which will take you to Canyon Lake.
4. Canyon Lake to Waco: Head north on TX-46 until you reach New Braunfels. Then, take the I-35 North to Waco. While I-35 is a larger highway, it provides direct access to Waco, but you can explore smaller roads in the surrounding areas if you wish.
5. Waco to Dallas: Take the TX-6 North to Meridian, then head east on TX-22 towards Hillsboro. From there, take the I-35E North back to Dallas.
Remember to check road conditions and plan for occasional stops along the way to fully enjoy the scenic beauty of this route. Have a fantastic trip!
Well... after ~900 miles of Texas I made it back home and had a great time with the car. That said, the car continues to create its own content! I had a persistent "whoomp whoomp whoomp whoomp" noise from rear right as I passed through 30 mph and it became a higher pinched on as I went faster. At 80 it was loud as heck. So... sounds like next weekend is going to be Wheel Bearing Replacement Time:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...l_Bearings.htm
I'm going to reach out to my local chapter (mavericks) and see if I can't borrow the tools and/or get access to a press. Fingers crossed, time to wrench!
Took the 996 out for my usual weekend canyon route. Had a bit of a shock when a few random lights flashed on the dash for a just a second (ABS & CEL, I think). No weird issues and everything was normal again, until a little later when it happened again and seemed to lose all power for half a second. Everything again returned to normal, but shook me enough to dial it back to make sure I got home safely. My mind went to "tech support" mode and I started thinking what it could've been. First thought was loose battery cables, but the voltage was dead set just shy of 14v. So my next thought was maybe a ground was knocked loose or loose-ish. I need to get a closer look at the general state of things, and also need to start doing the UAOS change soon. Pretty nervous if I should start this work as I am planning on taking the car up to Monterey for car week.
Any ideas/ suggestions are welcome!
Replaced the front headlight level sensor and drop link that connects the level sensor and the potentiometer for the Litronic lights today. One of the joints in the link had seized up, Rear sensor is still intact.
Picture is the link. For scale, nuts are 10mm.
Seized link. Not hard to remove or replace.
Gives a non answer not worth pasting or reading
This is the problem with ChatGPT, its just the next most likely word from the internet, and the internet is full of "fear mongering" on the m96.
Got the trans installed onto the engine and everything back into the car. Install the intake runner when it arrives back and get this thing ready to fire up. It has been 11 months and I am ready to drive it!
As one goes together (168Sierra) another comes apart.
A ways back in this thread I documented my water pump failure and intermix� I sent my heads off to Len Hoffman and unfortunately they were not cracked so�
I took apart my short block today finally and the only other place I know the intermix could have been coming from (I tested my oil cooler) are these questionable looking pass through gaskets.
I did not see any cracks at the bottom of my cylinders.
Short block with accessories removed.
Bank 2 removed.
Bank 1, about to remove rod/pistons 1-3.
Source of intermix?
Picked her up from my Indy, who did a lot of work for in prep for my move to a rural area in NS Canada.
- injectors
- UAOS + upgraded hose from Skip
- brake fluid reservoir
- oil filler hose and cap
- front LCAs (finally got rid of that thunk when going over speed bumps (sub 20 mph).)
I've purchased all the tools and parts from rockauto needed to do a brake refresh front and rear. She doesn't need it yet but this winter perhaps or spring it will be time.
Installed tie down brackets from rennline on the rear, in prep for trailering her to CA.
Those were the last of my planned service history refresh for my car. Pretty much everything is new and upgraded, nothing but oil changes and the occasional wiper blade and filters should be needed for several years of driving. The car cost 24k and has had 30k spent on her. If any checkbook mechanics are curious about the ultimate expense of purchasing a rough example of these (996.1 C2) and daily driving it. About 5k of the expense was optional, after market exhaust system and PCCM+, as well as some interior mods. She's just coming up on 100k miles and has no bore scoring or warning materials in the sump or filters or UOAs. Deviations are within spec. I'll be interested to find out how many miles I can get on this engine. I'll post here if anything bad happens but she is running very good. Knock on wood this will be my last car, I'm 60 and retired as of June this year. I was laid off and initially planned on finding more work, but I've really enjoyed the freedom I've experienced since June 15. The last 2 months convinced me that it's better to retire on my budget now than to continue desk work. Freedom! Best wishes to all you 996 folks. I'll continue to lurk and will post if anything noteworthy occurs. Happy motoring!
My own “Fun” Update:
Finally had a few minutes last night to sneak into the garage to see if I could discover what gave me the heebeejeebees last weekend on my weekly Malibu canyon run. The car cut out for just a second and my diagnosis on my way home was a loose ground somewhere. So now with the booty off the ground I was poking around looking for something. Factory ground cable was good and tight so the search continued. Eventually I spotted it tucked on the passenger side. No idea what this is a ground for, but there’s (I believe) 3 grounds here. One looks like it had already broken in the past and was butt-clamped together and everything got wrapped in electrical tape. It was quite crusty so this isn’t a new repair.
After unwrapping I found a broken brown wire , and our likely culprit. Not sure what this is a ground for, but it’s there for a reason. It’s also in a horrible spot so the repair won’t be fun. “Luckily” I still have some “fun” work ahead of me in replacing the AOS with the UAOS... might just hand this fun job to someone else and deal with the “fun” bill that awaits me...
@De Jeeper
Do you have any idea what thes grounds are for? Definitely dont want to drive the car until this is fixed. Might be paranoid but the next drive planned was several hundred miles to the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion... seems like a bad idea. Taking the Alfa instead
@2mAn
it wasn't cheap. My Indy is well versed in 996s, but was new to the UAOS. Cost me 1258.00 labor to install the UAOS and the optional but very sturdy and servicable hose that Skip provided. Basically 9 hours labor. My Indy charges a flat 8 hours to install an OEM AOS, so the UAOS was +1 hour. For the peace of mind and his mad skills 135 per hour is a deal. Plus he warranties everything 3 years 36k miles through the technet scheme. Nothing my Indy has done has ever gone bad, thankfully. Hope this helps!
.
That looks like the grounds for the fuel injectors on that side of the engine. The ring is bolted to the side of the cylinder head above the scavenge pump.
@imhighlander
He's 50$ an hour cheaper than the local PSC. Cheaper isn't always better, but he's much closer to my place and like I said I have no complaints at all. He's been very honest and fair. We're spoilt for choice here. The local PSC also have a 996 specialist who actually worked for my Indy when he first came to town, but moved on to the PSC when the opportunity came up. That's enough gossip haha.
Where are you that is 225 an hour, NYC or CA? That seems unreasonable to me. It also makes me glad I had so much work done before I move.
Well, I am not a gifted mechanic. Or, even much of a hack mechanic. However, a quote to install the Mr12volt Bluetooth device for the Bose system in my 40AE, was more money than I wanted to pay. So, I read and re-read all of the installation links in Rennlist, watched a bunch of videos on YouTube, and bought the YAZ996 power plug and his elegant Hazard Switch phone mount. CD changer was easily removed, though the power plug, even with the lock tab depressed was a bear to get out. Pulled the horseshoe on the dash, and found the sharpened panel removal tool slid easily into the little gaps without damage. Removed the side covers to the console, fished out the phone plug. Routed cables to the console, and installed the Bluetooth there and plugged in the power to the phone plug. Installed the Bluetooth module, and powered the car up. No lights on the device, and the stereo was now dead. Great. Decided to check the fuse for the phone, and the fuse was bad. New fuse- and I heard angels sing�okay, it was actually AC/DC� The phone plug power tap is elegant, as is the phone mount. I used a 1� ball insert, and paired it with a cheap Amazon mount marketed as a Ford Bronco mount. Works great. Having used it for a couple of days, I can say that my phone charges, the Bluetooth syncs as soon as the car is on, all of the sound controls respond. Overall, the sound is really good, considering Bose doesn�t know what bass means�I�ve found it be appropriate or everything from Eagles to Miles to Maynard Ferguson to Led Zeppelin and Siri works to pull music, and make and receive calls. The best part? Everything is reversible, in case one day my kids want to use the CD changer to be �old school�.
I�m now looking forward even more to the trip down the coast to Rennsport in September, with a more modern entertainment system.
The silver finish on my shifter button was badly worn so I decided to sand it all down and repaint it. Turned out great and was a lot cheaper vs a new one. I used Porsche Arctic Silver which was a perfect match.
Next up will be disassembling the center console and painting it but that will have to wait until winter when it's in the 60s vs the 100s currently.
Plpete84,
I am trying to mount the X51 runner on the passenger side and I have an interference between the runner and the A/C suction line. Can you put up a picture of the intake runner above the A/C lines to the compressor for your engine please. Does your car have the fuel cooler in the A/S suction line?
You seem to have an alignment issue there. You probably do but could you confirm that you also have the X51 aluminum runners that go between the head and the actual manifold and are not using the plastic ones? Unfortunately, I'm out of the country till early September but I dug up the below photo that could be helpful. The AC line connection is more in front of the manifold and does not touch at all. I'm not sure about the fuel cooler to be honest but I don't think Porsche would have used a different AC line to make the X51 intake work - but anything is possible.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Sw7FasHUFZEPtmcNA
I had the same when I fitted the x51 inlet , there's a different part needed - when I fitted I initially bent the original part but after investigation managed to source the correct part - my opc helped with this, it's not listed on PET but iirc they found it through the original x51 parts list. Drop me a pm if you still have trouble and I'll see if I can dig out the details.
I went after my rear right wheel hub bearing.
First, you need a breaker bar:
I kept taking off parts to free up the hub. Here's where I ended up, unable to get the lower ball joint out of the hub assembly:
I'm gonna go back after it in the morning with a bit more enthusiasm. I bought this kit to do the pressing and I think I'll be fine on that part:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175476945906
Happy to hear any tips/tricks.
Take the 3 nuts holding the strut in at the top off and the entire assembly drops down, remove lower strut bolt and tap it out, then upright will come off the ball joint easily. It looks like its already popped free
Had a 996 shop day. My car received a CSF 3rd radiator and front control arms with monoball bearing and upgraded thrust arm bushings. The red one got a CSF 3rd radiator, low temp thermostat, and 2qt sump spacer and baffle kit. The white one got Tarrett pro-series control arms hence the upgrade on my car.
Well it was 108F in my garage yesterday so what better time to change the oil and get the factory installed transmission fluid swapped out. I'm at 54K miles but I think in terms of years it was way beyond time to get that gear oil replaced. I'm amazed at how easily the transmission fluid can be done. It's easier than an oil change even. I did have to use the top half of my floor jack handle for a breaker bar to get the plugs loose (yes I made sure to get the fill plug out first before messing with the drain plug) but other than that, what a breeze.
I bought one of these pumps that screws onto the bottle to get the new fluid in with no mess at all.
Amazon
Amazon
After reading a bunch of threads about which gear oil to use I decided to just go with the factory Porsche fluid and I'm really shocked at how much better the transmission feels with new fluid. Shifting was getting a bit notchy and noisy and I was noticing some very light clunking when moving the shifter into 2nd gear at very low speeds with the clutch in. That seems to have all disappeared with the refreshed factory fluid so I'm pleasantly surprised for sure.
Altogether, the fluids were right at $230. I can imagine what this service would have cost at the dealer or even the local indy shop so I'm feeling good about myself today.
I love the lift. I've been thinking about getting one and each time I have to jack up my 986 my motivation rises....
What Indy do you use? The only folks I've met so far in DFW have been the Mayo performance guys - at least for porsche specific stuff. There's a small euro shop by me - German Motorworks that has been fine for brake fluid flushes and tech inspections.
I used Mayo for the IMS/RMS/Clutch/AOS work that I had done. I've also used Fix-N-Go to do the water pump and the coolant tank replacement. The owner there was a former Porsche dealership certified tech but he's since sold the business and I have no idea who is running the place now. I was sad to see him go as it was nice having a competent Porsche shop on this of town.
The QuickJacks are pretty great once you get your "system" down for the right combination of jack placement and lifting blocks for each car. The first few times seemed like a lot more work that just using a floor jack with stands. I love them though. They're very stable and level and I just push them together and park the car over the top of them when not in use.
Thanks! I was planning to do the same battery of parts with Mayo when the first of clutch/rms/aos needed replacement. I'm at 52k miles now, so I bet it will be clutch or RMS that takes me in. I figure I'll do the LN Engineering IMS planar bearing and clutch/RMS while the transmission is off.
Thanks for the detail on the quickjacks - I'm getting more tempted and may pull the trigger in the fall. The main thing keeping me from doing it is the fact that the car is generally super reliable and it feels like overkill for fluid changes
I kept taking off parts to free up the hub. Here's where I ended up, unable to get the lower ball joint out of the hub
auto zone �rents� tools like this. You pay for them and then return when done and they give you full credit. They have all kinds of stuff available. Check the boxes first. Some of them have been beat up over time.
Bearing update: the kit I linked last page did everything I needed. Photos to come later. I have the new bearing in.
Need advice on defeating the hub/inner race boss:
Bearing seperator
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearin...EaArB7EALw_wcB
2 jaw puller
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
Precision pucks to push against
Amazon
Amazon
If u dont want to buy that stuff u can die gring a groove 90% through and hit with a cold chissle. Once it cracks it will side off.
Thats how I use to get off axle bearings.
Hit it with coarse grinder wheel (or something similar). Hit it hard, making a groove, AND heating bearing race/retainer red hot just for a second or 2 is all it takes. The red hot part is what does it.
Get a 1" chisel and good size hammer. One pop straight into the groove and it cracks, making it easy to slide right off. The heat is what removes the 'hardening from the bearing race allowing it to crack. it only needs to get red hot right at the groove you make, not the whole race. It needs to be in a vice or solid place when you hit it. I like to hit it while its still hot. Don't have to grind right thru, half way is plenty as long as it gets red hot...
jmo
Last livejournal post:
I'm gonna make it, folks. Tomorrow is re-assembly and maybe I'll get to drive the 986 again wednesday morning.
Thanks for the support and answers
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https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1124/fullsizerender_d29486ac2430d5c6132bc9bb54b147e39e350b25.jpeg
It wasn't today, but...I replaced the side-view mirror I busted after a decade plus of backing in and out of the same side of the garage.
Not even worth a DIY - pop the trim piece off, remove the three Torx bolts, and replace your busted mirror with your $50 eBay replacement.
Before and after...
I've got the car all buttoned back up, but the parking brake is catching on the brake rotor, even at the lowest setting on the star wheel adjuster. The brake lever has a ton of travel as well. I can't figure out why it's catching.
I'm so close to being done!!!
I am headed that way.
I have 2 996's with the engines completely torn down to the cranks.
One is a 996 cab - my dad wants this car when it's done, the other is my C4 PTS coupe.
I was to "find" a good crankshaft Sunday by tearing down a 3rd engine I had bought a while ago that was "running but smoking." What do you think caused it's demise??? Steel sleeved 3.6- guess the seller didn't know it had been rebuilt. (I bought the engine from a scarp yard).
...My blocks are at the machine shop getting a deep cleaning- I can't clean them up as well as they do and it's cheaper for me to do it that way! I should get the parts back end of this week or next week, start measuring things and making expensive decisions.
--Aaron
I figured it out. I had a bolt loose on the brake shield
it scored the rotor a bit. I will order the brake set from rennpart and just do a full changeover. I have a track day in late september anyway!
I freakin did it! (e91 for scale). The a/c went out in the wagon the day before I started on the 986, so I'm glad to have the 986 back on the road for the balance of the week before I tackle the a/c on the e91.
[QUOTE=RennPart;18963464]I am headed that way.
I have 2 996's with the engines completely torn down to the cranks.
One is a 996 cab - my dad wants this car when it's done, the other is my C4 PTS coupe.
I was to "find" a good crankshaft Sunday by tearing down a 3rd engine I had bought a while ago that was "running but smoking." What do you think caused it's demise??? Steel sleeved 3.6- guess the seller didn't know it had been rebuilt. (I bought the engine from a scarp yard).
The Oil Pump is mounted wrong, isn�t it?
Yikes... Scavenge pump looks like it's rotated 90 degrees. :/ I always assumed they couldn't even bolt in that way -- I thought it was only possible to get it wrong at 180 degrees.
That's my plan. There's an upholstery shop near my house that I've spoken to about the work. They seem excited to do it.
The main question is whether I spend the time to track down heated/ventilated 987 seats and have THOSE recovered. I love my heated seats now, but the Texas heat really warrants every possible cooling advantage. The hard part is finding that feature combo. I can do any color since I'm buying material for the recovering work anyway.
I love the way I talk myself into spending money on this car lol
There has been so many 996 scavenge pumps installed wrong that when Porsche designed the m97 heads/scavenge pumps, they slotted one bolt hole in the scavenge pumps and offset one threaded hole in the head so that the scavenge pumps " could not " be installed wrong on the 997's...NOTE !!! the new designed scavenge pump ( 997 part #)can still be installed/retrofitted on the m96 and still be installed wrongly on the m96, but cannot on the m97....
[QUOTE=Teilegott;18964543]
[QUOTE=Porschetech3;18966426]There has been so many 996 scavenge pumps installed wrong that when Porsche designed the m97 heads/scavenge pumps, they slotted one bolt hole in the scavenge pumps and offset one threaded hole in the head so that the scavenge pumps " could not " be installed wrong on the 997's...NOTE !!! the new designed scavenge pump can still be installed/retrofitted on the m96 and still be installed wrongly on the m96, but cannot on the m97....
Here's the engine from the 996 cab with sporadic oil pressure.
Same damn thing.
I'm probably not the first to say it but WITAF was wrong with the engineers who designed a part that can EASILY be incorrectly installed with catastrophic results.
= bean counters...... not the engineers ...bean counters wanted just one pump to fit both sides...engineers wanted two different pumps so they could NOT be assembled incorrectly...due to the economics situation, the bean counters won....
Started it up today and put the first 50 miles on it. Runs great. Only issue was a drip from one of the drain plugs on the CSF radiators.
I had good help with the reassembly. I should get another 50 miles tomorrow and then it gets an oil change. Goal is to get to 1000 miles prior to leaving for Rennsport reunion on Sep 22.
Mark
2nd night of the journey. I've never pulled a trailer. Somehow, despite my ineptitude and anxiety, I'm only 1 day away from the destination. Me and my dog and 'savannah' are taking the �cat' ferry from bar harbor Maine to Yarmouth NS tomorrow. Already liking the cool weather. ⛈️ it's was humid as hell in Wilmington NC on Wednesday when I left. Here in Augusta Maine it's cool and drizzling. ⛈️ Storms tomorrow apparently, but the ferry is sailing. ...
I'm excited. Retirement and my 911, what's not to like? The roads in NS right out my door are perfect for enthusiastic motoring. Wilmington, not so much. Yeah, I know, winter... But it's all part of the charm. And I've got new vredestein wintrac pros mounted on my spare turbo twists. Cold weather can still be fun. If it snows, meh, I've got country skiing and photography to do. 🍁🇨🇦👍
Gassing up in Wilmington wed morning
What a patient girl. Today she finally figured out how to jump up into the truck. Thank God, my back... She's 95lb. We both need to lose 5lb.
Welcome to the Great White North! Cold is no biggie as long as you dress for it. I kind of live the change in seasons�always gives me something to look forward to.
It all started with a bad inner tie rod.
I bought the car with 176k miles and only needed to replace the tie rod to PA pass state inspection.
Naturally, I decided to replace all of the suspension components front and rear, including a pair of Tarett camber plates and new PSS10s.
Everything was great until I noticed a rhythmic metal scraping sound from the left rear. Initially thought it was a bent heat shield, or a rock. I tried bending it back, but no improvement. I took off the caliper and rotor to look at the parking brake. It was worn unevenly down to the backing plate on the bottom shoe. I figured this must be it so I replaced the shoes and cleaned up the hardware.
I took it out for a drive and it sounded normal again. After about 20 mins and some liberal use of the brakes the noise steadily came back like incessant beating of the telltale heart.
I inspected it a little further and it seemed like maybe the rotor is warped slightly or the caliper was dragging.
So I did what any sensible mechanic would do and had the calipers stripped and powder coated, I rebuilt them with fresh seals and bleed screws. New hard lines from the caliper to the chassis. New Serbs slotted rotors, Ferodo DS 2500 pads and hardware and threw on a set of new stainless lines I had sitting around for good measure.
I haven�t driven the car yet, but if the noise is still there I�m going to be a little ticked.
Where are your fabric samples from? I did wool heavyweight tartan in my 996 but my wife says it's "too scratchy" for her 986. I need to get the driver's seat cushion replaced (short circuit in the heating pad) and plan to do a fabric insert when that's done.
@Boff
thanks! Took the CAT from bar harbor. 700ish USD for a 40 ft truck and trailer. The captain of The Cat actually backed my rig onto the ferry thank God. It's back on at the bar harbor side because it's straight onto the ship. In Yarmouth there's a 90deg left on the ramp. So they want all the trailers leaving going fwd. The captain and crew were super helpful.
Landed in Yarmouth last night and was pulled right into customs. The guys there were so nice eh. Really low key and courteous. I had my inventory sheet for personal belongings in duplicate and for the car, I had my NC title and the purchase price, which resulted in a 5% Federal tax, 1250.00 or so based on stated value of 25k USD. I have the import documents from the customs fella, this week I will go get a NS drivers license and get car registered and plated and pay the 10% PST on the car, they (the province) take 2x the GST. Grrrr. Will be about 2500.00. no fee for importing the dog haha, but had to show vax records. This am I went to the U-Haul depot and backed the car off the trailer, then the U-Haul guy helped me back the trailer into it's spot. He was young and I could tell he wasn't as handy as the cat captain, but with me guiding him he got it into the spot like a pro. Drove back to deep Brook and unloaded my worldly goods with the help of two neighbors, I gave them 50 USD each which they tried to refuse but I made them take it, and asked them both to come by and get coffee or ask for my help in return, very nice maritime guys both. Then back to the depot to finally! Get Savannah and bring her home. The garage is full of crap, but it's a nice size, easily 1.5 car and long, so finally, finally, she has a home. I stopped on the way for Chinese takeout in Annapolis Royal, which is the nearest town of any mention. It's a tourist town and rightly so, very beautiful location and an important historical fort on Annapolis Basin. My mom bussed to public school there.
It was weird driving my 996 after 3 days of a 15ft U-Haul truck. The roads here are so sweet, rolling hills and lively curves. To stay within speed limits I stayed in 3rd most of the way home, between 2.5k, and 3k, then 4k rpm, the sweet spot esp for warning up. Gotta care for those timing chain links!
It's going to take a lot of work cleaning up the garage, and the house, my 85 yr old mom is not very neat and throws nothing away. It's going to take a lot of patience and 'one day at a time' mentality to make this work. She needs me, so it's not like I can change my mind 😂. We'll make it work. If any of you have cared for an elderly parent, tips are welcome. I plan on lots of walks with the dog and therapy drives to break up the domestic chores.
I'll try and make my future posts more 996 haha. But it helps to share the stress and adventure with you rennlisters.
At Annapolis Royal waiting for Chinese takeout. I'm wiped.
I drained the oil on 8/10, took care of a couple of oil leaks(UAOS & LN deep sump) and finally poured in fresh oil on 8/18.
With working 65+ hours per week from home the last month, I just didn't have much time to work on my 966.
I ordered a new deep sump gasket and some Hondabond.
Man, Hondabond is 180deg difference from Loctite 5900!
I got a chance to start it this afternoon and drove it for the first time in 9 days.
Snagged a set of Sport Designs off FB marketplace with a fresh set of Michelin's. Even have a set of brand-new center caps lying around. Who knew 3rd gen ('07-'11) CR-Vs were such great wheel haulers? 2 rears + 1 front fit perfectly in the trunk, mounted or in wheel boxes, and a 4th wheel box can even fit on top in the back too.
Have to wait for the weekend to mount them & get an alignment... can't wait to see them paired with the .1 aerokit in person.
Yes, they are a nice style for the 996.1. I have two sets. They're heavy, wish they were light like my MY02 but like I said I have two sets and they are good looking. Sport classics are heavy too So go figure.
I have winters (vredestein wintrac pro) mounted on my 17" turbo twists, and for summer I've got custom bronze Momo heritage 6 17"s with Conti extreme dws 6+. With the state of the roads here in South West Nova Scotia, and the USA stock ride height and 17s with some sidewall just make sense to me. And they're light, way lighter rim and tyre.. will I use my winters? I dunno. Whether I do use them or not, whether I drive the car after they brine the roads, I'm still going to woolwax my car properly. I might take it to Krown up in Middleton and have them do it, if I get a good feeling about them. Otherwise I will buy the kit and do it myself. I feel like I could do a pretty good job of it just using rhino ramps. Easy enough, based on my research. It may end up being a waste of money, but that brine sticks around for ages, and every time it rains...grrr.
what color is your .1? Mines meridian metallic...
NB C2, as you can see. Southern car, with 93k miles, for 23750 on bat. I didn't expect to win the auction, it was my last bid... she's about to roll over 100k. New suspension, clutch, rms, IMS, water pump, reservoir, radiators, UAOS, injectors, some hoses, and many other things I'm forgetting haha. Aftermarket exhaust system by top gear UK, valved boxes, 200 cell cats, headers, and a tune by vrtune. She sounds amazing to me anyway. Deep and burbly on startup, with an edge to it then fairly quiet cruising, even with valves open, but after 3400 and beyond forget it, the x-pipe cats make it sound very race car. Today I drove her into Digby and visited the drivers license office, got my NS license, now I'm working on insurance, then I have to go back to the 'DMV' and get it plated. Just from my place to digby is a better drive than any roads near my old place in Wilmington NC. And the back roads are sweet!
Was also a tad disappointed in the weight, but I've got Sport Classics on already and things were relatively comparable. If I was prioritizing 'adding lightness,' a set of OZ Alleggerita's would be on the shortlist (I quite like how
Jethro's white gold set
looks) -- certainly on my radar if this becomes a double-duty street/track car.
Not as glamorous as some have posted here, but I got around to changing the oil
after 18 months and 2000 miles. I must�ve over torqued the drain plug previously, because it was extractor time once I stripped it out. Lucky for me I ordered a few LNE plugs on accident.
FWIW make sure you look at the correct units when setting your torque wrench.
Going to be a busy weekend for me with the 996. As I'm planning on doing the following:
- Replace spark plugs, spark plugs tubes and coil packs
- Rebuild front suspension (new control arms all around, etc.)
- Flush and replace coolant
Lets see if I can knock it out in a day.
You are ambitious. It's raining here, so I'm going to see if I can find the Thule hardware for my towers to mountpoints. The aero bars are assembled, with the asym towers, just gotta find the box I put the mounting hardware in. Then I'm going to tune my MTB, and make sure that, regardless of all the other things I need to do this fall, that I'm ready to ride some trails. Western NS has some good rides apparently.
Her new fair weather home...
Her soon to be winter home. The garage has a poured floor, and plenty of second floor storage. It needs a new roof, and a few of those trees need trimming. There's only a single hanging bulb, so lighting, and shelving, and a bench are going in soon. There should be plenty of overhead for quickjacks. Soon ..
Washed (griots), clay bar'd (griots), removed swirls (P-21S), polymer protectant (car guys). Car looks amazing! I love these products! P-21S is one of the sleeper products I've come across. Great for removing water stains, swirls, small scratches.
I reached 1000 miles on my 2002 C4 Cabriolet with a Stage II+ FSI M9Xperience motor and performed the oil change. I also loaded a more aggressive map. I will be contacting Jake/Atlanta Speed Works to get it on the dyno and optimize the tune prior to heading out to Rennsport Reunion later in September. It runs fantastic now, I can’t wait to see what it does with an optimized tune.
Mark
I hit 53k miles, replaced the cabin air filter, filled the wiper fluid, and took my daughter to the local garden store to buy seeds.
Goodness, gracious, what a car.
The good:
Ended up getting the spark plug tubes, spark plugs and coil packs done. Pretty easy job, just tedious. Flushing the coolant and refilling it was a pain in the a$$ and I'll definitely invest in a vacuum tool the next time around. I didn't get to the front suspension yet, I would have had enough time but I was aching all over. I always tell myself I still feel like I'm 21 but it's definitely not the case when crawling on the garage floor for a few hours in 100 degree heat.
While having everything apart I also decided to do a deep cleaning so I cleaned the rear bumper cover, cleaned and polished the mufflers, etc.
The bad:
While having half of the rear torn apart I noticed that the inner axle boot on the driver side was completely torn to the point where about 50% of the boot was missing. So it looks like I'll be rebuilding that next weekend and while in there I might as well refresh the rear suspension too (my bank account is crying and so is my body).
1/2" electric or air kmpacts zip them off. Fyi, the nuts are suppose to be 1 time use so buy a new one. Tech tip, have someone hold the brakes down when u torque them tight.
Not exactly today's but recent work:
8/2/23 @ 108,700mi front brakes/rotors (power stop z23 kit rock auto), rotate front tires
8/4/23 @ 108,700mi rear brakes/rotors (pagid discs, brembo pads)
8/4/23 rear tires shot, only 4k mi. Alignment and new rear tires @ 108,700
8/25/23 @ 108,900 plugs/coils, new battery, alternator (997 150amp), y-cable, replaced most vacuum lines on top of engine. (Found resonator flap line broken, fixed)
Tires 2/1/23 General G-MAX RS
front 19x8.5et55 245/35r19 Rear 19x11et50 305/30r19
photo album
Finally had some time to load the pictures from the project this weekend.
Removing the bumper and mufflers made installing new plugs easy. Hats off to anyone that does the job with everything in place. Don't mind the green masking tape on the door, I was cleaning and treating the rubber trim.
Polished the tips while everything was off.
Out with the old coolant. Not even sure what was in there....but it was 90% dirty water and 10% green coolant (the wrong coolant).
Forgot to mention that I knocked out a few side projects while in the my DIY mood starting with replacing the rotten rubber seals around the headlights.
Followed by repairing one of the rear wheels. Turned out quite wheel for my first wheel repair attempt.
As part of my restoration of my 99 C4 the headlights needed attention . Badly faded with interior lenses burnt on both sides . Last year I started watching for sale ads on various forums to find a clean set of bi-xenon headlights . Took a while but finally found a very clean set for a good price . I installed them yesterday . The pics really don't do justice to the dramatic difference between old and new . Plus my pic taking skills are less than stellar .
Not so much as �today� but finally starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel today refreshing this new to me 50k miles C2 with:
-removed the original PPF and paint corrected.
-full interior detail and leather restoration with leatherique (amazing stuff BTW)
-full maintenance tune-up AOS, Plugs and coils, misc vac hoses, thermostat and water pump, belts and pulleys, oil pressure sensor, fuel sending unit and fuel pump, motor and trans mounts
Wiper blade replacement and oil change with DT40. First oil change with the DT40 as I was waiting for the 4,500-mile mark on the Nickies rebuild from last year. This was the 3rd oil change as I replaced the break-in oil at 400 miles and then did two changes with non-synthetic Driven oil to get to 4,500 miles. A year later the engine is running great.
After 5 straight 60+ hour work weeks, I was glad to have a 3-day weekend.
My family has been sick with COVID for the last 12 days.
It's been passed from person to person and we're staying away from each other as much as we can.
So far I'm the only one who has not had it.
Since I feel fine, but have to stay away from everyone else, you would think I'd get a lot done.
All I've done so far this 3-day weekend other than grocery shop, mow, dishes, laundry & fixing meals for the "patients" is I finally washed and waxed my 996 for the first time in months.
Sorry to hear that Tex! Sounds like you've got a lot on your plate with work and domestic. I hope the family get over the COVID without any hiccups. The car looks great man. My girl is so overdue for the detail. I bought one of those dongles that the jdeeeper recommended because I had a CEL, it arrived today so I downloaded the app from the Play store and connected it started the car and what do you know there's no check engine light. I have my doubts that whatever cause it is gone for good. It's really looking tough around here to find a Porsche mechanic, it's as rural as rural gets. So I got to be independent. I've been working everyday on organizing getting stuff ready to go out to the dump or for sale on eBay, my mom's garage is full of years and years of collecting. Not hoarding but just you know when you live at a house for so long you collect a lot of furniture and old stuff. But it's got to go out now my 996 needs a home for the winter. Between cleaning the house and the garage my back is killing me. But hey at least I'm CEL free. Time for a quick nap and then I'll get back at it. All the best.
Today I tuned my mountain bike, a specialized stumpjumper FSR, at least enough to ride. It's been sitting a while, so I'm going to make a project of rebuilding the forks and shock, and a few other things. I'm going to prep my road bike for Zwift, winters are long here, so I need a trainer. I'm trying to decide between popping for the tacx neo 2 or saving some $ and getting the Zwift branded one. I'm really into a virtual electromag flywheel I think, it seems a lot better than a 10kg mechanical. Convince me otherwise, go ahead, I'm listening👍
What's this got to do with my 996 you ask? Well, I splurged today, got a quickjack 5000TL, for $1,499.99 CAN$. Any other North of the border folks who can take advantage of this sale, here is the link -
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/q...w.ds#store=476
.
Even with the tax, it's a sweet deal. My back will thank me. But....I spent the trainer cash on the lift. So there's that.
Anyway, It's good to be back in Canada. ❤️🇨🇦💯
Extensive service records for my .04 996 C2 showed the engine air filter last replaced at about 20,000 miles; I now have 70K.. It's had diligent service, so I thought this was an oversight. Ordered and installed a Mahle OEM type air filter. However, what I removed was a BMC 159 reusable filter. I'm going to use this new filter for its appropriate life, but may learn how to clean the BMC and reuse it in the future. I know there are differing opinions on these.
It's interesting that the two previous long-term owners were faithful about annual maintenance. One of them seemed to engage in buying "accessories" for the 996, to include a Rennline strut brace, Porsche 996/997 factory short shift kit, imitation aluminum gas cap, F7 silicone intake hose with resonator bypass, Fister exhaust, and, now, a "performance" air filter. I consider most of these as somewhat enhancements so got a bit of a bonus with an already nicely maintained car.
Just thought this was interesting.
Maintenance records and service history can be weird. I bought a 65,000 mile 2014 BMW 328i in October 2020 that had extensive dealer service records dating back to day one. When I went to change the air filter in July 2021 I found it was the original........and black. So dirty it looked like it was from a coal mine.
Funny how things like that can happen.
Removed the axle with the torn boot, rebuilt it and installed it which took more or less all of Friday with multiple "honey-do list" breaks in between. Refreshed the front suspension on Saturday and I have to say that the 996 is one of the easiest cars I've ever worked on when it comes to suspension as I had both sides knocked out in about 3 hours. I takes me 3 hours just to disassemble one side on the Golf R.
Axle back in place, I had my wife stand on the rotor hat to push it down for more room to get the old axle out and the new axle in. She said that is the maximum of her car DIY abilities, glad she was helping though for all of 5 minutes.
All the suspension components were original and definitely seen better days.
Old vs. New
Shiny new components.
I installed some cheap external tpms senders and plugged the dongle into the cig lighter. Seen to work fine, but I'm not big on the clunky look. Next time I change tires I'll add a better internal set.
finally screwed on my new NS plate.
threw the racks back on and took the dog MTN biking. Tomorrow, I'll install a fire extinguisher, replace old 3rd brake light, and wash her, in prep for a Sunday PCA drive from Bridgewater to Liverpool. Can't be scruffy, first impressions and all that...
Post Ride. She's slobbering all over my coco mats!
New plates
😁
He offers a much cheaper 3d printed version. What I like about the set up is it uses X1 cupholders. Mine is waiting at home, I'll get it installed tomorrow and post a pic.
I found this airplane:
And all of these other cars:
We did a ~220 mile canyon drive in the Texas hill country and I had a blast!! I finished the day with an even greater appreciation of my car and had a great time with other PCA folks. Now I'm gonna start getting ready for HPDE in 2 weeks.
I have a UIDS and the engine oil sensor is in the side of the UIDS. The trans sensor will be in the drain plug. It is being fabricated now, 10 x 1 thread sensor in a custom drain plug, std drain thread with external hex drilled and tapped for 10 x 1 sensor
My friends, it brings me no pleasure to tell you this, but you should give Tom the $190 or whatever for this cupholder.
I'll replace my casette cupholder that's above the radio at some point. Ebay units clock in around $350. Mainly, having my coffee 1) lower and 2) more stable is worth a lot to me.
I agree that this is probably the coolest cupholder I've seen but I don't use one enough to warrant the $12,000 price tag. I'll stick with the $25 one I already have even if the cool kids make fun of me.
Put this in tonight. Amazing. $435.00 US shipped from Rose Passion including the trim cover. Legit company. I had it on order with ECS for $620.00 and they didn�t know when it would ship. Found rose and got it in 5 days from Germany
I dropped my oil sump plate to check for bore scoring... It seems pretty clean for 130k miles, but what do I know?
I found these little brown plastic pieces in the oil pickup tube screen, but based on other forums posts, it doesn't seem like I should be too concerned about them -- probably been there since original manufacturing/assembly. Or it's variocam pads? Unfortunately, I didn't check the cam deviation before jumping into this project.
Fixed my CDR23. The volume **** hardly worked. Bought a radio off Facebook and swapped out the front face unit. Works great now!
P.S. I tried just putting the whole radio in, doesn't work. It's keyed to the ECU. Would have had to send it off to Becker for a reset.
The Help Me DIY guy -
@TTGator
I think - did this job with the engine in the car and the youtubes are like, 3 hours long. After editing I suspect that was a couple days of work and he had a second set of hands. I'd hope that like most porsche jobs that the first 50% was 80% of the work, but repeating on the second head probably wasn't too much faster.
I'm hopeful that I can line up all the big internal maintenance items for an engine out winter or something. We'll see.
I completed a project I started, upgrading my standard rearview mirror to one with a compass and the anti-dazzle feature.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-upgrade.html
Finally finished up ceramic coating the car� again. Used the Adam�s Graphine kit and ir was a royal pain in the ***. The kit wasn�t as easy as the others I�ve applied and left high spots EVERYWHERE! Took some hand applied glaze and graphine spray to level everything. It worked amazingly well after all that was done.
The Numeric shifter is one of the few things that actually lives up to the hype.
Shifting on my 996 went from feeling like my old 90�s Corolla to S2000 level.
I tried the 997 shifter first and it was an improvement over the 25 year old worn out one.
Then I added the Function First kit and it helped tighten up the shifter a little more.
But the Numeric is on a different level.
Looking great, what polishes and pads did you use? I'll be doing the same on mine soon and planning on using the Meguiars M105 and M205 with my Porter Cable DA which has been working well for me for years.
Hey, that's great. I always liked seeing how much work you got done on your back patio though. Kind of inspirational and made it hard to make excuses for not doing things.
Hi all! I came across a 2001 C4 Cab with 84k miles and decided to fulfill a life-long dream of owning a Porsche. One month in and it's the best money I ever spent! Original plan was to save miles and use my other cars as daily drivers, but I can't stop driving this thing!
Work done since mid-August. Rear window regulator ($25) O2 sensor ($75) Brake light/Pressure sensor ($27). Bought a icarsoft Por V1.0 code reader for $50 on Facebook. So for $175 and a few hours work I managed to clear the CEL, ABS, PSM and airbag lights.
Things on the to-do list, The remote on keyfob is not working so I was locking/unlocking manually, and the lock now stopped working. My guess is the cable broke or became disconnected. Wiper fluid was working fine when the dash light went off telling me to refill. Tried to refill yesterday and the fluid poured strait through and onto the floor. Ugh! So much for no lights on the dash!
Good job. Keep driving the crap outta the car. I've been doing the same with the 986 I bought in April.
I, too, need a new wiper fluid tank. I'll probably do the pumps while I'm in there.
Welcome to p car land. Be sure to join your local PCA - I've been to a couple events now and it has been a blast. The 996 community here has been real great too! The folks who also love these 20 year old german babies have been so helpful with projects and routine maintenance.
Completed a quick polish and wax, nothing fancy but came out nicely for the products used and time invested.
need to do this more often and buy better Wax or maybe ceramic coating.
Also I need to get a standard bumper or a .1 aero one! Cant stand this fiberglass one!
Thank you!
The fabric is from Justin Placek, a guy in Germany who does really good job in restoring interiors. Also he provided me with new Savannah beige leather as well, but the retrim was not done by him, but from a local guy here in Cyprus. The name of the tartan is Porsche Ksro Madras. We had a lot of discussions with him on ehat would suit the beige interior and he provided me of photos and videos of leather and fabrics side by side.
He has a great Instagram:
https://instagram.com/justinplacek?i...RlODBiNWFlZA==
also another photo of the interior then
In the last few days--I had a new set of Continental ExtremeContact Sport 02 tires mounted. During the installation the shop discovered I had a bent rear rim. That same day, my battery got weaker with each start until I noticed the voltmeter reading 11 volts! Fortunately, my mechanic was on my route home and he confirmed the need for a new alternator. Thankfully I was able to leave it with him and the following day he had a new alternator for me and replaced the bad unit. A few days later the rim repair guys rolled my wheel in to me and showed me there was a crack in the middle of the flat spot that needed fixing too. Finally this morning I noticed I should have renewed my license and registration last May (how did I miss that?!). Just got back from getting a new sticker and reg. Sheesh!
I'm very happy the alternator didn't hold on until next week to take a dive since a buddy and I are driving down to RR7 in the 996..
(Warning: Long winded story ahead)
I added a 7 inch screen for wireless CarPlay. Amazon sends me stuff for me to review and I got this screen last week. I liked it but didn't want to use the power cord that plugs into the cigar lighter. Besides being unsightly, the socket is always hot, so I would have to plug it in when I got in the car and unplug it when I got out. The 12 volt input into the screen is a USB-C. I didn't want to mount a USB-C socket in my dash because if someone plugged their phone into it expecting 5 volts, their phone would fry. I tapped into the communication plug's switched power. I also wanted the installation to be completely reversible so I 3D printed a dummy switch with a hole for a barrel connector. I glued a thin piece of steel to the back of the screen so I could use my magnetic phone holder, which holds it surprisingly well.
I've had a bluetooth adapter for my CDR-220 which is plugged into the radio where the CD changer would go and has worked great for many years. I was surprised that I could still play music through that while connecting to the new screen at the same time. The result is that the music plays through the existing bluetooth connection on the radio, while the new screen displays the music info and allows touch screen control. This also works with the SXM and Spotify apps. However, when I choose Waze or Google Maps, the audio plays through the screen's speakers, not the radio. I could get around that by taking the audio out from the screen and plugging it into my bluetooth adapter. I probably won't do that for a few reasons. 1. I don't mind the navigation directions coming from the screen. 2. I don't want another visible wire in the dash. 3. I can put the screen away and use my phone with the bluetooth adapter as normal without making any changes.
The power cord is still a little longer than I'd like. I'll see if I can find one that's only 3 or 4 inches long. The kit included a wired backup camera but I'm not using it. I have a wireless backup camera and app but it's not compatible with the screen.
As it happens, I installed a new shift **** today (Raceseng Hydro in translucent smoke) and though it awesomes up the previously crappy shifts on my short shifter, it does not look right because it is too brown. But it would look amazing on your car! Wanna buy it? 😅
Actually that does look great! I was thinking something along the lines of this. Depends on price, and if you are willing to ship to Cyprus in Europe, and how much that would cost
^^ that LS sounds hot. Love it.
I changed my brake pads for track prep.
Heading to Hallett this afternoon. Will be my first time on the track and on the track in my 986 S.
Hopefully I'll get some pics!
Imagine my surprise when I got it and thought it was black metallic and after I parked in my garage it looked more like a brown car, looks similar to cola. It's a colour found on 993s and some early 996s
https://www.rennbow.org/porsche-colors/BlackMetallic
I think the paint code on my sticker is L744 and not L746. Read that there is a difference in lacquer between them.
It's lovely!
Track update: this is fun, why didn't anyone tell me? The 986 is a blast on the track. I got progressively faster as the day went on with close to 2 hours of seat time. I think I can finally start learning how to speed up. It's cool making these beast cars do their best in their natural environment.
I bought my 996 a companion so it won't be lonely...
MODIFICATIONS
Flat 6 Innovations Stage II Engine Rebuild
Cayman R Suspension
Girodisc Slotted Brake rotors
Carnewal Modified Stock Exhaust
Softronic intake plenum and DME flash
Power Steering cooler
BBI Harness/Rollbar
LED DRLs with front grills
997 paddle-shift steering wheel
Front splitters
Racing Seats
Five point harness
Original seats included
Durametric cable
set of track wheels/tires - bespoke Champion forged track wheels with Michelin PS4 tires
Hell yeah
@sasilverbullet
- Hopefully I'll see you at a PCA or Track day this fall/next spring. Also, it is not lost on me that you are standing in an air conditioned garage. Your german babies have it so good!!!
I flogged the **** out of my 986 today and look forward to doing so again tomorrow. My biggest takeaway today is that I want to upgrade my brakes - they seemed to get a bit mushy after 5 laps or so. I'll plan out new fluid, pads/rotors but probably need a track set and a street set going forward. I'm happy and confident with my tires so far - Continental SureContact whatevers have plenty of grip once I warm them up. The motor sends it... so i don't need more power for the time being. A suspension refresh is a distant consideration, but I want to stay stock given that this is my daily. (kinda rambling here).
I'll be interested to start logging oil temps once I get
@Coopduc
's oil sensor installed.
What is my easiest overall data collection option for the car? I suspect it's just old enough to be kinda manual.
Last night I installed some of the final pieces of my Carbon Fiber interior. I still need to install the dash one and my Carrera 4S one.
I know I need to use my heat gun and finishing line to remove the current ones.
Happy to help with track goodies. Been doIng it for a few years now. I didnt bother to look but what region r u in?
Data collection for our cars suck because the ecu doesnt broadcast much. If u want to get real good real time track data get a Garmin Catalyst. If u actually want data get an Aim solo dl/2 with an expansion module. U can the put 4 sensors into the system. Oil pressure, oil temp, brake pressure and stearing angle would be my suggestion. U get water temp and throttle position from the ecu. Add their camera for cool integrated vidoes.
For brakes get a good fluid in there, srf, motul 600, endless 650, pagid r all.good choices. Get a decent track pad like ferodo 3.12 or pagid yellows and u will be going deep into a corner with confidence.
Thanks - that is all very helpful. I think I've got the itch.... I'm in the maverick PCA group and lone star BMW CCA (although they won't let me run my boxster at their events). This weekend's event was with APEX and I was very impressed with how they ran it. Great vibe. We rented an RV and stayed at the track - which meant that in the evenings it became a tailgate. What a great time.
I did 2 sessions this morning, then packed the car and drove it ~240 miles home. Gonna drive it to work in the morning. What a car!!
Here's me and my instructor from the weekend - I should get all the track photos tomorrow:
My wife and I drove our 996 Cab from Denver to Page, AZ. We are on the way to Rennsport Reunion at Laguna Seca raceway. This is the car with the 4.0 STage II+ M9Experience engine.
Car has run perfectly and is averaging 28.3 mpg. It has run flawlessly and oil and coolant temps are staying at 180-190 degrees. This motor is a torque MONSTER.
Leaving home Fri Morning
Arriving in Page Az this evening (2300 mi later)
Cleaned up the door sill on the passenger side (with the little storage pocket) and on the driver side. Both sides had the black rubber coating coming off in certain areas which didn't look appealing so I just removed the entire coating and it looks much better now.
I also cleaned out the garage and found my old Blendmount that I had in my GTI about 16 years ago. I was about to toss it until I test fitted it on the 996 and it worked perfectly, so now I have to break my old Escort Passport out and hardwire it to the 996.
I love free mods!
Oooof. sweet mod. If I could do one mod to my C2 it would be too lose the heavy power spoiler and swap in a carbon ducktail. But retirement is more important than a few lb haha. It's all good. More pics
@TheChunkNorris
please.
I wrestled around on the ground under the engine with the oil pan removed and scoped the bores from the sump.
Cylinder #6
Cylinder #5
Cylinder #4 (I think)
I scoped cylinders 1 and 2, and I think there were similar markings to cylinder #4. I didn't bother with #3 after the hassle it took to get to #6 through the hole in the side of #5.
For context, I have a 99 C2 3.4L with 130k mi that has spent it's entire life in southern California. Two used oil analysis reports under my ownership have not shown any abnormal wear metals.
Does this look like the early stages of scoring?
On Tuesday, removed stock springs and replaced with H&R Sport Springs. Anticipated 5-6 hours with help of a good and knowledgeable friend. Took from 8:30 to about 6:00 with another hour of replacing wheels and interior panels/subwoofer.
Results: Finally test drove car today. Car is just a hair over one inch lower and nicer looking; and springs are noticeably firmer, not quite as stiff as my X73 Boxster S, so darn nice. Car now has a bit of mongrel suspension that I think will work together: Rennline strut brace courtesy of previous owner, newish Bilstein B4's (Yes, B6's or B8's would be preferable), Eibach Swaybars (Pelican Parts on sale), and H&R springs ($150 from a Porsche enthusiast). With the 18 inch wheels, I think the ride height and the position under the wheel arch are an improvement.
Just hit 70,000 miles with new OEM brake rotors and pads, new clutch, new AOS, and documented regular maintenance. Hoping for a long term relationship. I can afford to buy the upscale products and pay to have them installed, but I'm sort of trying to prove the practicality of a good 996 on a budget.
Next up...new tires and alignment.
After an intense month, I finished the UAOS install and made it to the Driver Experience at the Porsche Experience Center here in LA
More details to coming soon in my thread
Getting ready to deploy next week so I�ve been cleaning up the garage. Had to renew registrations on both cars too, replaced the license plate holder on the 996.
Thank you very much, I�m a defense contractor now and served for 6yrs beforehand. I appreciate the kind words.
You know the real winter camo print actually works� I�ve had to track people via a UAV at about 5000ft AGL and couldn�t see anything.
I drove over to Rennsport Reunion today. We drove out from TN in our convertible with the new FSI motor we built with Jake Raby. The car has run flawlessly and we now have 5200 miles on the engine and it has averaged 29 mpg for this trip.
I have never seen such a collection of Porsches.
Between all the race cars and customer cars it is astounding.
We aAre looking forward to driving the PCH after Rennsport.
on Hwy 395 heading into California
[QUOTE=168Sierra;19037630]The car has run flawlessly and we now have 5200 miles on the engine and it has averaged 29 mpg for this trip.
We aAre looking forward to driving the PCH after Rennsport.
on Hwy 395 heading into California
[/QUOTE
That looks great. Love those wheels. Light and effective.
How the heck do people get 29 mi per gallon? Pretty amazing. Is that cruising under 3,000 RPMs? Must be something wrong with my loud pedal.
[QUOTE=c didy;19037663]
Yeah, while these are slippery cars with Cd .30, the number seems high. Perhaps at 55mph and no higher that mpg could be achieved? After 55mph, the drag from air on any car begins to increase exponentially. That's why in the 70s with the fuel crisis, the national speed limit was 55mph.
incidentally, impact Force is exponential as well. That's why we have speed limits. But Physics is hard (sic). So people speed and when they make a mistake and crash (they're not 'accidents', please can we stop calling them that) it's obvious when observing the damage that the vehicle was being driven irresponsibly. Car manufacturer advertisements do nothing to help the problem. If anything, modern car marketing encourages hooning. But I digress. As usual.
My car has a FSI 4.0 Stage II+ motor. it has height=er compression and extensive head porting. When it was run on the dyno it was found to be very rich on the stock ,program, running an AFR of 10:1. They cut the fueling by 30% to get the AFR up between 13 and 13.5 to 1. For my trip I generally ran on the cruise at about 5 over the posted limit which ranged from 55 550 75 mph.
Yeah it’s from Etsy, same dude that printed the console cubby. Went with the “blemish” option. I have to say the color and quality of the material match the oem pretty nicely.
Yeah, Tom makes good stuff and is very responsive. He's a BMW enthusiast as well.
I was bugging him recently to make a cubby that retains the light and is set up for heated seats.
After several months of very slowly refreshing my C2 I started it up for the first time.
🎉
...CSF radiators, every coolant hose, coolant tank, thermostat, fuel injectors, fuel filter, transmission mount, alternator, starter, UAOS with auto-drain, new sensors, inspected for bore scoring from the sump, and replaced every gasket I could manage without dropping the engine (saving that for when I need to do clutch, IMS, and RMS)
The garage is almost ready for my girls to sleep in comfort for the next 4-5 months. Found the trunk seal that was included in the CSR ducktail� finally got around to installing it.
The driver side vent slats wouldn't move up or down as the comb looking plastic pieces that connects all the slats internally was loose. Took the vent out and fixed it this weekend and also took care of all the loose black foam.
Had another wheel bearing start to fail. Found it while doing my inspection cause i have a 3 dayer at njmp with DelawarePCA this weekend. Also got an engine, trans and brake fluid swap done. I should be good till the end of the season. Somehow i still have 10 more days in track.
Yea, Porsche has a "Track Maintenance Schedule" about wheel bearings/hubs for Gt3 . Since yours is now GT3'ish you may want to follow the recommended schedule here..
Change the rear wheel bearings ever 4200 track miles and the front wheel bearings every 8400 track miles
That document is meant for centerlock wheel cars as the gt3 version is different then the cup centerlocks and not as robust. Either way im probably gonna swap them about every 2-2.5k track miles so im hoping that will be good.
Yes I think that is an excellent plan. I think that when wheel bearings into that environment they are a maintenance item and are no longer a lifetime item.
I ordered and installed them. Only one had a slight defect in the edge, but they all went on easily enough, and they really do look nice, giving some contrast in the otherwise dark plastic dash. Go for it!
Tuesday. Took my mom to YHZ Halifax, it's about a2 hour drive. She's visiting family including the great grandkids, in St. Catherine Ontario for a week.
about 30 minutes into the drive I got a CEL. Car ran fine there and back. Parked it with cel.
Wednesday I went for a drive to run errands in Digby, and took my usual back road route through Bear River. CEL still on, but ODB reader plugged in. Ran errands, gassed up (91 is all we can get here, she's used to 93 in NC) and headed home. Coming through and off the new roundabout and merging onto 101 I held it in second and gassed it, up to about 6k rpm and then did the same in 3rd. Not only was the sound glorious, but moments later the CEL went off, and stayed off. I did a quick Google search, it looks like O2 sensor fouling maybe? Any tips for the mechanically deprived? Maybe I'm just not driving it hard enough. Certainly with Mom in the car I was taking it easy and keeping revs around or below 3k on the highway to Halifax. Just needs to be driven harder?
From Android ODBlink.
Scanned before driving on Wed. Also, I did not clear the codes, as the app warned me against doing so with the engine running. As mentioned above, they cleared on their own while driving. What is the right way to clear codes?
Thanks . I am old school and like the fit and strength of the factory hood . So for me I wanted an insert type . Just a personal preference . The fit was perfect , to be honest I was surprised how well it fit . After a quick dry fit off to the painter it went .
It came preprimed so just a light sanding was needed . The painter removed the GT3 grill inserts and did his thing . He reported zero issues . Then he reinstalled the grill inserts . This was probably the easiest aftermarket piece I have ever installed .
The vendor is " directcartoys " and purchased via eBay . There are much cheaper versions out there but I chose this because it appeared to be good quality . That is subjective just based on pics and comments . But in my case it was a wise purchase that didn't disappoint .
I am leaning the same direction. With the exception of RPMs carbon ducktail which is lighter and well designed, I dont see anything else I am crazy about for a full lid replacement for the price. I think direct car toys has hit a home run. Congrats.
I started some car chores today. I got the driver's side done. I'll wrap the passenger side tomorrow. The weather has turned and I need roadster mode!
I suspect the passenger side has the stripped wheel. Thankfully, these metal wheels will go the distance.
^^ related to the above - I'm on the passenger side and the transmission on that side is my problem. I'm stuck atm trying to loosen the bolt on the batwing/boomerang and it's spinning freely. I welcome any tips/tricks for locking it/bracing it so I can remove the center bolt.
Stay tuned for pics of the internal plastic wheel destruction.
The only thing left for me to detail was the inside of the fuel filler so I bought a new hinge and on the third day of trying - read the Bentley manual, watched You Tube videos, I said screw it and broke it into 8 pieces. That got it out!
New hinge looks better too.
Ta da
After my H&R springs and Eibach swaybar upgrades described earlier, I engaged in a bit of self-indulgence this week. Wanted something to break up the silver paint and let me pick my car out of a line of similar 911s. Added a 12 inch solid matte dark green stripe. To me it's conservative and distinctive without being weird. Hope to add some green interior accents in the future (mats, maybe seat belts, maybe even plaid seat inserts if I get rich).
I think I found my problem:
The metal gears are much more noisy, so I suspect the choice to use plastic against the screw drive was motivated by that factor. I have a bit more work to do, likely on adjusting the ball joints or messing with the sensing micro switches. I clear the dash light when putting the top down, but it stays on when I put the top up. Function appears to be fine, however. Also, the rear deck clamshell thing seems to sit about 1/2 centimeter high when the top is down. Still, I'll take "needs tweaking" over "doesn't work rn" any day. Gonna check this one off in the 101 projects book and get on to the next one! I love this car and I love working on it.
The next project for this long weekend is installing a new A/C in my garage so I can live some of that climate controlled life when warm temps return!
Attended a Cars and Coffee at the Tree House Brewing Company in Charlton, MA - my first C&C. There must have been over 75 Porsche's. I was surprised by the number of Spyders in attendance. Beautiful cars.
One of my favorite cars
Today my wife and I drove from Red Lodge, MT to Rapid City, SD. We are ret.urning from Rennsport reunion in our 2002 Cab. It is the one we put together our FSI 4.0 Stage II+ engine for. We installed the engine at `47,228 mi. We now have 156, 207 mi . I took the attached photo as we were getting off I-90 at Rapid City. The engine has run flawlessly on our trip.
We ran over 400 miles at speeds from 78 to 83 MPG and averaged 34 mpg. The coolant temp stayed right at 180 the entire time. I have the UIDS and UAOS on my engine. See Photo of oil temp on the gauge. I have the sending unit installed in the UIDS. The gear oil temp gauge is not connected yet. I am working on a custom. Trans drain plug with a temp sending unit for the transmission. At one point, I ran the speed up to about 130 mph and the throttle was only 1/2 way to the floor.
Many people question whether the FSI engines are worth their price. I sure think they are. You do not hear any FSI engine owners complain about them. They do offer a lot of performance. Everyone can decide for themselves if they are willing to pay the price for an FSI engine.
Mark
I use cruise control at low speeds very often. Whenever there is a road with a ridiculously low speed limit that I know my brain will drive way too fast unless I constantly concentrate, i turn on cruise a few miles above the limit to keep me at reasonable speeds.
I probably use cruise for slow roads as much or more than on the highway.
Replaced the plastic connector that connects coolant to the AOS and is prone to break with the URO metal on and the mounting snapped off. Its crappy pot metal!
And it got the oeliker clamp just right and now have to start over. Replacing this with the one at FCP Euro which is better design.
First drive in about a month! Finally finished replacing all four flex brake lines. Should have been easy, and my car has no rust, and yet I still had to replace 2 of the hardlines to the calipers, and various other adventures...
But enjoyed a great drive.
Got to take a beautiful drive on "the Silver Thread" in SW Colorado in my project '99 Classic Club Coupe tribute. Still need a few things to complete. Today we surgically removed the 3rd brake light panel, now just have to cut a nice, flat piect of .030
sheet metal, weld in and finish!
Finally fixed the horns on my car last night. Never worked when I bought it. When I removed the bumper to inspect, there were no horns or bracket. I suspect the previous owner removed them when the bushings in the steering wheel failed and maybe wasn't aware that you could just replace them and not the whole bracket. I had 3 Spoke steering wheel anyway so no new bushings or bracket needed. The horns have seen a few revisions so the connectors were no longer the same but Porsche makes an adapter cable which made it all plug and play so no cutting or crimping required. Even though it was something pretty small and basic it still felt pretty good to have fixed a problem I didn't create for myself haha
I was checking my tires the other morning and can start feeling the wear nubs about 1/8" below the tread. I've never had a track car before, so I've usually driven into the nubs then replaced the tires. I have two more track days this season starting late this month. Should I go ahead and replace them now and break them in before I finish the year or can I wait till mid-november?
I've got Continental Surecontact on my staggered set up. They were great on the track once warm a few weeks ago. For now I'm inclined to get them as replacements. I'm 98% street/2% track in my driving and still very much in Novice land. The first and currently only planned track focused upgrade is brake lines and a set of track rotors/pads (and routine fluid flushes, ofc)
Thanks. I figured that was the right answer, just needed a nudge. I'm planning to stick with same unless there's an obvious better option. P happy with these from a road noise perspective and will need more seat time to drive up to them, tbh.
dont really know anything about those conti tires but the extream traction tires r available form a 375 to a 200tw, i think. It all depends on the weather conditions/temp u drive and how many miles u want to get.
Let me look at those. I'd definitely like to get them replaced this week so I have time to put some miles on them before I hit the track at month's end. Here's what I had typed up after calling NTB:
My set up is 225/40 ZR18 up front and 265/35/ZR18 in the rear. I've got two more track events this fall and then it's whatever for next year.
NTB says it's harder for them to get continental tires - and I don't have any problem switching to PS4s. I'm assuming I can just proceed with these? Any real reason to look at the PSS?
I'm 98%/2% street/track and this is my daily.
No complaints on the continentals, just looking for input.
Thanks for the advice, De Jeeper - I'll be doing my track focused brake upgrades after the "season" ends in november.
Many tire threads and opinions. U can easily go to a 285 in the back assuming a 10" rear rim. That may expand your choices? I think the ps4 is a great road tire and an ok track tire and that might be fine for u.
New hood shocks for the trunk, glass hatch (Targa), and engine compartment. Easy little projects. Next up, replace the plastic cowl and figure out why the rear spoiler in in-op (has power, and spins motor)
997-562-429-00-M24 and 997-562-430-00-M24 Stabilus, Ordered them here on Pelican. There is a left and a right, due to the defroster connections. They were around $80 each. Perfect fit.
Spent some time cleaning up the Idle Air Control Valve last night, and man was it grimy inside. I still have some more cleaning to do before I put it back in, but I'm confident this will eliminate the 2 codes (P1514 & P1551)
No pics
From Pelican Parts:
The classic 3-spoke sport steering wheel with the historic Porsche Crest on the horn button. The smooth Black leather and the Porsche lettering with a Red background underline the iconic design. The stitching and center top marking are done in Red. Made in Italy.
Part number: PCG34708420
No coding necessary on ROW cars, merely install a diode to fool the system into believing the airbag is still connected (and a fuse to prevent damage to the the system in the event of the car sensing a high G impact and triggering what it thinks is the airbag)
Guides to the process here :
You Tube
You Tube
Install kit such as this needed :
https://tinyurl.com/ynajkucs
As regards losing the airbag, I'm 60, and in all honesty over the years I've owned/driven numerous daily driven cars and Porsche "toys" without steering wheel airbags, it's not something I've ever really dwelt upon. I think perhaps you guys across the Pond are more averse to the kind of modifications that could impact your safety and wellbeing, than my generation of Brits and Europeans ?
Not sure if you guys have legislation which dictates you HAVE to wear a seatbelt whilst driving in all 50 States ? It became mandatory in UK many years ago (1983) so that no doubt goes some way to reducing injuries in the event of an accident.
Recently introduced legislation in the UK has also made it difficult to retro-fit non-airbag wheels to cars originally fitted with them, they fail now fail the annual safety inspection (MOT) which is the equivalent of your DMV safety inspection.
its the same with north american cars. Any of the srs system can be fulled with the resistor. Im running mk1 seat belts on a mk2 harness and the srs just thinks the locks r there.
I used an original Momo item, truth be known though, the Momo item isn�t particularly good. This item I�ve linked to contains the thicker washer required to fit under the wheel securing but, it also contains the OE Porsche contact pad and the necessary connectors.
https://tinyurl.com/ynajkucs
Be aware the fitment of the wheel requires removing the original slip ring and it�s wiring and multi plug connectors. You�re then required to cut the multiplugs off the slip ring along with tails 2-3� long, to use them in the installation of the Momo wheel.
However, rather than cut the wires off the expensive and perfectly functioning original slipring, I elected to buy a cheap used slip ring assembly with the cancelling tab snapped off and cut the wires and multiplugs off that instead.
Depending on year of the car, some have steering columns that are conductive and provide continuity for an earth, whilst others aren�t (they have a thin insulative layer that precludes them providing any continuity.
Initially I thought my car, a 2001 Mk 2, was the latter as the horn push refused to work, but that was due to the contact tab on the newly installed contact pad not being well aligned.
I would suggest starting another thread to get recommendations on tires (e.g. whether to keep same or change to another brand/model). My experience has been that Michelins are better than Continental generally. Every time I've gone from Conti to Michelin, I've been much happier. That is an extremely broad statement across all cars -- better for you to post a thread and get feedback for the 996 (or maybe search old threads). I did recently put Michelins on my 996, but didn't have Continentals before, so I can't provide any meaningful feedback for your situation.
.
Added the fourth stalk for the onboard computer (option code
659)
. Not worth the trouble for the OBC since outside temperature is the only worthwhile measurement and you can enable that with a Durametric. But I intend on wiring the stalk up as steering wheel controls for the stereo.
I'm planning to do that job soon, but I'll use switches in my horseshoe - big agree on the temps - that's the motivating data point. For some reason I am super accustomed to seeing ambient temps on my gauges.
Appreciate the input. I've ordered Pilot Sport 4 S to replace the contis and will give them a go. To De Jeeper's point above: If I come back in the spring with a strong desire to track the car I can make the decision to look into dedicated track wheels/tires or just keep running high end street tires.
If you only care about the temperature, you can enable the onboard computer with a Durametric and the default state is to show the outside ambient temp. You only need the stalk to switch the display to MPG, remaining fuel range, and enable/set the speed limit/gong.
I hope to get a few more washes in before putting her to bed. I use a rinse-less wash most of the time and it works really well and will get me further into the winter season here in Northeast US.
After two close calls recently, and a non-working horn that prevented my warning the other drivers that I occupied my lane and couldn’t move…I finally fixed my horn.
Turned out that the wire for the horn from my MOMO hub had broken at the solder joint.
A quick resolder solved it.
I finally got around to acquiring, painting and installing aero side skirts and painting and installing the DNS spoiler I got a few months ago. I�m fairly happy with the results�
oh� and I tried to pop out the center caps to re-clear them (both rear crests were cloudy)� needless to say all I wound up doing was tearing the Porsche crests off 🤬 I�m wondering what type of �glue� you guys have had success with (I�ve tried gel type super glue before and lost the crests). The stuff that was on them was super tough but still flexible�
I had one fall off when pressure washing the car. I used 3M double-sided VHB tape. Same stuff used to hold body pieces (e.g. side skirts, front lips) on other manufacturers, so it should hold up for a long time.
Amazon
Amazon
I've used "Goop" glue on the crests I made for my car. It stays flexible and holds great. I used some to glue a hinge on a heavy glass door on my B&O stereo 20 years ago and it's still holding,
Same exact thing happened to me too. I ended up soldering it again and zip tied the wire with some slack to the hub under the cover so it can't break again. Has been fine for a few months now.
I have the shortblock almost finished on my 99' yellow cab.
Put the bank 1 head on this AM.
This engine spun a main bearing due to a incorrectly installed scavenge pump.
This engine is like a Johnny Cash song- 1 piece at a time- the crankshaft and carrier from another donor engine, lots of other pieces salvaged from parts I had.
Not a performance build by any means, just a driver for my pops.
--Aaron
Finally got around to installing the roof transport system + cargo basket, ahead of hauling some stuff this weekend and the next.
The previous roof panel brackets were completely rusted and unusable, so had to swap all four of them.
Drove the 996 all over doing errands today, then spent some clean up time in my very cramped garage in prep for the weekly PCA breakfast in the morning.
Got some upholstery work done to my seats and changed out the stock (ugly) shift **** with a 993 **** and had it done in white leather to go with the houndstooth
wow, where you been hiding this project. You are probably past this point but I think you can use the turbo brake light panel which doesn�t have a third brake light.
Was on a roll last night. I forgot to order new fuel injectors (blue pintile type) so project is stalled unless I try to run the �upgraded� EV-1 style white injectors- not sure how that will go with a stock DME tune.
�Aaron
Installed the missing plastic 'VIN window' in the frunk. This was something I never knew was supposed to even be there until peterp posted about replacing his last year. I kept forgetting to throw in with a dealer order until this week.
After watching a YouTube video, it only took a couple of hours to install.
I put 80 miles on the 99' C2 Cab last night after rebuilding the motor.
Had a spun crank bearing due to a incorrectly installed scavenge pump.
The cylinders were fine so I re-rung the pistons, cleaned everything and changed out several other wear items.
Will do some more testing and change the oil.
--Aaron
150 miles on the motor.. I fixed a few 996 things today/tonight.
1. Driver's side seat kept blowing 30 amp fuses. I pulled the seat out and found a frayed wire where it passes through to the seat back. The amount of wires going to the early "seat memory" ecu is amazing!
2. I noticed the passenger's side soft top was not fitting into the c pillar properly so I removed the forward most gasket and found the tensioner spring with cable had popped off it's mounting place. I drilled and re-rivited the mount and she's good now.
--Aaron
I found my passenger footwell was wet on Friday when I took the mats out at the track. I spent my afternoon vacuuming then clearing all of my drains. Could my A/C condensation drain be plugged? Google also suggested checking the bottom of the windshield and door membrane. I'd like to track this down.
I also spent some time looking for some 9x7 or 9x1 sport seats with heat and ventilation. They seem quite rare. Is the occasional google and ebay search the best way to keep my line in the water there? At this point I'd buy whatever color and just have them re-covered.
Also, I drove a new track on Friday!
https://g2motorsportspark.com/track/
I was slow as hell, and I need to grow my courage, but I had fun. Eagle's Canyon is next Sunday.
https://eaglescanyon.com/track/
Shipped mine off to get some suspension bits installed... I didnt want to have them deal with the idling issue but since I couldnt fix it before the car left, they will deal with that too. I didnt want to get a pic of it on the tow truck, not a good look
I cleaned up the Cab yesterday and finally had room in my shop to bring my 01' coupe back over (without an engine!).
Time to get the ball rolling on acquiring parts to get the coupe back on the road.
The C5Z belongs to KNS Brakes (who I also work for). It is a SpecCorvette build. Unfortunately when the engine was rebuilt a High Pressure oil pump was put in- when cold it reads 120 PSI of oil pressure and when hot it only comes down to 75 psi at idle! I'll be putting the a "high volume" oil pump in to correct this.
--Aaron
It's great. First time I've ever lowered a car before, so I was a bit hesitant. But I'm so impressed with how much more neutral it handles while retaining the same ride quality, or even a hair better (if firmer). It actually feels like a sub-3k lb car now.
If I had more money laying around I might have gone Ohlins instead, but for the price the Feals are really excellent.
I used Carbonlution and I strongly recommend them! It took a little longer than expected but so does everything. I would give the a 4.9/5!
This past week i installed KW V3's, Rennlist GT3 lower control arms for the front, and Porsche sport exhaust on my 911.
Right now i'm going to wait until the break in period is done 1000/1500 miles before i adjust it. KW does a lot of testing to what their preferred settings are right out of the box. 1st impressions are "i bet this is what the car felt like brand new" and "It just does exactly what it's supposed to do"
it�s an oem pse system. I don�t have the vacuum line or the button installed because I run it always open. It�s quiet at idle and sounds meatier at WOT.
here�s a comparison video I found.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?si=ugfEI...ature=youtu.be
The reason I ask is because it took a loooooong� time to get mine dialed in. Not because it�s difficult, but I just needed to live/drive with it for a while before making little changes. FWIW, I think I started at around 9 clicks on the compression (around midway iirc) and 13 on rebound? I think these were the manufacturers rec�s� I quickly found that the rebound was way too fast/strong and lowered/reduced a click or two at a time until the car felt stable. I�ve since also reduced the compression a click or two all around and the car is really tight and responsive but not jarring over bumps, expansion joints etc.
A friend helped me install this (new to me) wheel.
It�s apparently an old 964 Cup wheel that was re-covered in thicker leather. It has great patina which works with my 25-year old interior.
I used the NRG short hub and a B G offset adapter. The tops of the voltmeter and oil pressure gauge are juuuuuust barely obscured. It is amazing how open everything feels compared to that brick of a 4-spoker. The car just feels racier and more nimble now. Maybe that�s my imagination but it sure looks cool.
Einsteiger, my car came stock with the sport mufflers, but the previous owner enjoyed driving in Chicago winters so the seams rotted out. I replaced them with Fisters and the sound is very much the same. I highly recommend Fister mufflers for every 996. The stock exhaust is way too quiet for me.
End of season oil change. Also removed left exhaust to reinstall gundo�d cans, but the 4post lift floor is in the way so I have to remove bumper�another day.
Started yesterday - did final oil change for the season. Today I washed �er, added some stabile opened up the capsule and tucked �er in for a long winter rest�😩
�Til next spring�
I never remove the rear bumper to remove the mufflers. easier to remove rear tire and then the 3 nuts on the muffler brackets and connection between the Cat and muffler, muffler comes out the wheel well. I also leave the outlet pipe attached to muffler.
Car Capsule indeed. While it�s not as convenient as pulling in/out of a garage, for roughly $1k (actually a little less) it�s a really good deal - and not just winter storage. I use it year �round - especially if I�m traveling or if I know I won�t be driving the car for more than a few days.
I replaced my Renegade BBK which uses 997 Turbo S rotors in Front with Girodisc (pronounced Ji-row-disc) front & back.
Weight savings of 16 pounds of unsprung weight in front and 10 pounds in back
My front rotors went from 350mm to 340mm. (Factory is 317mm)
My rear rotors went from factory 289mm to 325mm.
Yes, I can�t wait to take it for a drive to bed in the new rotors and test them out.
I also installed 997 turbo rear brake ducts.
They required minimal modding to clear my 18x11 rear wheels.
Nothing a utility knife with a new blade couldn�t take care of.
This is super minor, but do they offer a straight-slotted version of those rotors? I've had Girodiscs on other cars and recall them having straight instead of curved slots.
I don�t know if they do.
These are what were sent to me.
I prefer the curved slots.
My old BBK had straight slots and I could hear them hit the brake pad when stopping at stop signs.
These Girodiscs are silent when stopping.
I�m extremely happy with the Girodiscs.
I can definitely feel a difference.
The slots usually are pretty diagonal to the edge of the pad, I've never experienced that. Weird. I like the look of the straight slots (period-correct motorsport nostalgia?), will just have to call and ask.
Man I think we share the same brain for this stuff. I was looking at Giro because I don�t know if the 380mm set up will work with the TEs sooo I was looking at rebuilding my OEM calipers and finishing it up with Giros.
Thanks guys and added to my loooong list of things to get.
[QUOTE=TexSquirrel;19135053]My Black Friday purchase already arrived.
Carbon fiber door pull trim from Rennline.
It matches the door pocket covers.
[Super good looking! ]
I bought it a set of 997 wheels...
... ignore the snow tires. Not that they wouldn't be handy this time of year... maybe I'll drive on them until spring. Hmm.
Anyway... I have this kink to paint them a bright contrasting colour, maybe with a matching side stripe on the car to liven up the somber Seal Grey. Still mulling it all over. Step 1: Going to offer them up later and see what spacers are required for the right look and fitment. Step 2: Kink?
Drove my car after completion of a minor refresh� one more oil change and a quick wash before it�s mine again!
vavle job and repair after loose valve seat (new valve and 6 new exhaust valve seats)
UAOS
IMS
Clutch/Flywheel
New lifters
chain guides
plugs/coils
o2 sensors
injectors cleaned
trans mount
Powder coated brackets and shields
lots of other maint items
So, I finally got tired of my shabby grey seats, and installed a set of 991 GTS Sport seats. By far the best non-mechanical mod I have yet done to my 99.
Super comfortable, of course, but you are truly cradled an feel like part of the car. Amazing, too that 991 seats basically drop in to the old 996 body. Gotta love it!
@Schnellmacher
Those look remarkably good and period correct. I love that the Germans typically don�t fix what ain�t broke. The seat rails are an example of great design and backward compatibility.
After having this repair kit for several years I finally installed it. Easy to install and the sheen and texture match the factory parts. And no nanny label.
AMSPRAC Replacement Sun Visor Vanity Mirror Covers Driver or Passenger Side Visor Mirror Lid for Porsche 996/997-911 986/987 for Boxster for Cayman 1996-2010 2Pcs Black
https://a.co/d/79LeM4Y
Calhoun, GA. On our way back to Chattanooga from Atlanta. The rain was constant yesterday, at last when we were driving, and the 4S was cool as a cucumber 😎
Took her to the track in Savannah! Drizzled most of the time but being on track is good for the soul no matter the conditions!
Resting after a fun morning
Roebling Road colors.
@Einsteiger
mine were black. No experience with the other colors.
I cannot believe how excited I am about this fix tho. It just feels good to bring the car back to what it should be.
I fell victim to the dreaded broken oil filler a few weeks ago. I installed a new one this weekend; and installed the proper seal in the lid for the 997 airbox snorkel.
Finally getting MY 996 coupe together.
Thought I was going to have it together for myself for Christmas but it looks like I'll have to aim for Valentines day
--Aaron
What did you do to your 996 today?
Considered selling it?
Seriously though.... two days ago I noticed an oil drip on the garage floor under the engine which I believe that I have traced back to the spark plug tube on the rear-most left-hand cylinder. These were changed back in 2018 according to the paperwork that came with the car but I know they're trouble-prone (and the parts are cheap) so no foul, I'll change them all. This morning I went out to the garage to peek underneath the car to see how much more oil had escaped (not much more, but a little) only to find ANOTHER leak on the floor coming from the left side of the transmission. Yup, slave cylinder. Ugh! I swear this 996 thinks it's air-cooled... except that it would have a non-leaking clutch cable, but I digress....
Deep breath.
I also smell coolant from the area of the front-right radiator but I knew that already before I bought it... no visible leak there (yet), thankfully. Maybe tomorrow.
There's going to be more fluid on me in the coming weeks than there is on Pornhub. Good times.
@jandackson
It's hard to tell. I installed the 82mm TB before the engine was broken in so I don't have a before and after comparison. Right now the combination runs very strong though
Paint and not powder coat I hope.
Also, those are the older mag faces, I hope you had the guy who did the work inspect them really closely while they were apart, the mag centers do not have the same lifespan as the aluminum faces and were phased out.
Yes inspection done by AMS he also did the paint not powdered all new hardware
also confirmed with BBS USA these were the last batch made before being phased out
Got my custom BBS Sport Classic 2s on. Unfortunately I need to go back as they�re not properly balanced. After 60mph there�s big shakes through the steering wheel. It could be the hub centric spacers but I think it�s the wheels. I�ll take off the spacers to verify then go back to the refurbishers.
But look at them! Weiss gold for the win. Can�t wait for some sunshine on them.
I chickened out on bidding more on another 996.. This one was a 99 coupe 6 spd paint to sample "Aventura Green" that happened to be at my local Copart yard in NC.. it had 70k miles and was very fixable (front right hit).
If I had to guess it's going to the part-er-outer's in Rocky Mt. NC. The guy I was bidding against was also NC.
--Aaron
Yes, since they are manual seats with power reclining, just need to tap the 12v power from the car harness. The 991 seats have an occupancy switch
but the 996 makes contact through the seatbelts, so just had to swap out the receptacles from the old seats. Easy Peasy ���
They actually have more down travel than the old 6-way power seats��just pump the lever up to go up, and down to go down, and they weigh a
whopping #10lbs less each than the old ones!
Continuing with my Porsche Classic tribute, since the duck tail rear lid has a 3rd brake light, the original has to go�.a little work with the cutoff wheel and a piece of 12ga steel welded back in, and we�re good. My temporary vinyl wrap comes in handy here for a quick completion�..the real repaint will come in this summer!
Do you feel any power difference with the ethanol free?
It should have slightly more power and get slightly better mileage with pure gas. We have no pure gas available in NJ to try it out, sadly.
Just moved from California where only 91 octane was available, and current location premium is 93 octane. After a few tanks expected engine to recalibrate and advance timing, but acceleration feels the same.
https://www.caranddriver.com/feature...dodge-charger/
Clif notes: they only felt the diffference in octane when going from 87 to 93 in a turbocharged vehicle. Still an interesting read.
Some Sunoco stations around me sell 94 octance. I always try to stop there. Can't feel any difference but it makes my head happy.
Thanks,
@Porschetech3
I think so too....they were specifically designed in '22 for the 1-off Classic Club Coupe, and those suckers were pricey, and took 4 months to get this summer through Suncoast.
An easy upgrade....the sunroof delete that came next was a bit more involved!
Octane doesn�t make any performance difference as long as you have enough octane to not trigger preignition (ping) compensation.
Ethanol has less energy and makes less power/mileage than pure gas, so pure gas will create a bit more power/mileage versus blended. The difference is pretty profound for E85, far less for E10 or E15. Never had the chance to compare E10 vs pure myself though.
I�m aware of the site, but none are really practical or close. I think NJ has a law against selling it in normal stations, sadly. Though �par for the course� for NJ
.
^^ Please do a quick write up when you�re done� Any issues you ran into, how far you lowered the engine etc�I�ve had the UAOS for quite a while, but haven�t installed it yet.
1. Drain the coolant
2. remove the air cleaner
3. Support the engine
4. loosen the 02 sensor wiring from the holders
5. remove the 2 engine mount nuts
6. lower engine all the way to crossmember
7. remove the 2 bolts from AOS 1 rubber hose and 2 quick connectors
8. remove factory AOS and install UAOS "lifetime" in reverse order
9.install Accumulator and changeover relocation bracket with two provided screws
10. connect UAOS wiring to changeover valve and low coolant switch
11. cap unused coolant lines with provided caps/clamps.
12, done !! go drink a beer and celebrate...
Thanks! I will do that, but have to add replacing the coolant tank and the bottom hose to it, they were leaking a little. I'm thinking I'll replace the oil filler tube.
Don't I have to remove the drivers side intake manifold?
You don't HAVE to ,but a lot of people do it because they feel it is easier to access with more room..
I had a shop owner out in Texas call me and was extremely complimentary on the UAOS System ( he was a Mechanical Engineer ), he said he did it from the drivers side fender-well and over the top of the intake but never touched the intake manifold..
It depends on the person and the array of tools that they have. I have had some DIY'ers tell me they can do it in 2 hours or less, and some tell me it takes them two days or more.....and even some Porsche Specialist shops tell me the same thing .. 2 hours to 2 days...
I had a bunch of engine-out, while you're in there, stuff done at the same time - IMSB, chains, pads, and UAOS. I don't have the equipment, experience, or patience for that.
Pretty! A balmy 50F here in MA. Wife and I went shopping but I just can't bring myself to park my 2000 C2 in an outdoor shopping mall parking lot. I'll do a drive tomorrow before the east coast rain storm arrives.
So next up on my CCC tribute was to get rid of that annoying hole in the roof���.after removing front and back glass, headliner, and about 100 or so spot welds drilled out and off with the old roof �
Factory roof panel fits perfectly..
Panel is pre-drilled for plug welds.
Very true, so I have to improvise a bit�
Cross grain balsa laminated to the roof and profiled with PLA ribs from the 3D printer will be covered with Kevlar.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/480x379/18dda680_917e_4496_9c56_62a1a1670865_484c8776ece6cd99f822710d929e7a58c99196cc.gif
I bought mine a new friend who will help out with winter driving duties (and bike & Porsche parts schlepping). JDM imported RHD UZJ100 Landcruiser. I've had lots of cars in my life but the one I miss the most was my FZJ80 Landcruiser. I've always wanted a RHD vehicle so this solves for both. Incredibly clean with only 72,000 miles on the clock.
Fitted a short shift kit and tweaked the ride heights after everything had settled post Ohlins Road & Street fitment (that's not a typo BTW)
A road test was called for. So I stopped off for lunch and bought the vegetables for Christmas dinner at the same time :
I'm running wires for my 911 cluster upgrade and for coopduc's oil temp sensor and I found this wire under the console once I'd removed it. It isn't the ashtray lamp line, that's off to the right. Any clues what it is?
There are no instructions with the pccm display so you have I had to research all the threads to make sure I was using the correct parts for my car. My car has the MOST system so was probably the easiest one to instal but it still takes a bit of research. It took most of this morning and worked correctly the first time.
Had new Yokohama Advan V601 tires installed yesterday onto TR Motorsports wheels I previously had on my Boxster . I think they pop against the black . Just finished torqueing the lug nuts will now take her for a spin .
Suffered method of failure number 735 - the oval plastic disk that covers the driver side motion sensor fell off. Oh, the humanity! It fit's back in very loosely so I'll try a little dab of silicone to keep it in place. Last week my alarm went off in the middle of the night and I found the plastic piece in the footwell.
Repaired my fvd muffler bracket. At some point this season the lower section left the car. Not sure how but since fvd wants over $700 for a replacement i fabed up some parts to rebuild it.
^^ I'm def getting a welder and a drill press in 2024.
For my part I largely finished up the wire runs, etc for a cluster upgrade/OBC activation. I either did or didn't fry my cluster on my first check to see if they worked post wire runs. I definitely broke and ordered new wire harness clips for the cluster (thanks suncoast!).
I'm gonna finish the 987 engine cover swap, the underdrive pulley swap, and button up the engine bay tomorrow. Hopefully, I can put the dash together and finish the clusters next weekend.
I miss my skateboard fun car.
Showoff.
J/K, nice work! I'm >this< close to picking up a welder and resurrecting my long dormant and never all that great skills. I'd need to invest in some curtains to create a safe zone in the garage, but those could be handy for other reasons as well. Always some other project to work on...
I have Invested in a lot of tools in the last 30yrs. i have been using a millermatic35, its hog of a welder for the bulk and a miller 220 autoset for aluminum spool gun and stainless. The "drill press" is a bridgeport. One day ill have enough time not only to clean it but how to use it more then a drill press.
Just need to get some exhaust gaskets to finish it up. I guess i should mention that i fixed 3 emissions faults that i have been ignoring. I have had a charcoal canister vac issue since the motor swap and i finally found a quick disco fitting off the gas fill pipe sensor, an o2 sensor heater that was a broken wire and a sai issue caused by a vac line off at the change over valve. The great thing about the last thing is it actually fixed 2 other issues, the resonance valve in the rear plenum was in op due to the vac leak and the vac leak itself. Hard to believe that its gonna run better.
It was great that these issues that i have been ignoring for months were fixed in about 2hrs.
Well, I tried Amazon Boxi struts for $16. Been 2 years now on my 996.1, and they still work flawlessly so far.
Figured they all fail eventually so might as well give these a try for 16bucs.
Got another set for the engine lid then realized only need 1 for the engine lid. Its worked fine for almost 2 years now. Used the other 1 on my 996.2 when it just went out last summer, works fine also.
Got another set for the front trunk of my 996.2, they were just a tad to long, maybe 1/4" if that, so I said fug it for 16$ and popped them on it anyhow to see what would happen. They work fine and now the 996.2 opens the front trunk real high... Been about a year and a half now and they still work great.
After that, I looked at the Amazon listing and on the bottom of page it gives a diagram measurement of full extended length and compressed length. I'd measure yours and match them up corectly even though many Amazon listings say they will or won't fit....
Amazon
Amazon
Amazon
Amazon
I dismantled the Rear Center Console and painted it.
I did it into Exterior Color (Midnight Blue)
I used Spray Primer + original L39C Code Paint + Lacquer
Last couple days I installed the brushed aluminum gauge cluster trim, an ICT shift **** (far superior to the standard OEM shift boot in feel and shape IMO), and a set of turbo twist 8x18 x 10x18 wheels with a brand new set of continental DWS tires.
Loving every minute of it!
This car needs 18� wheels, love the classic look of the turbo twists on the 996
Love the feel and quality of the ICT shift ****
Brushed aluminum trim on gauge cluster really makes it pop
Serviced the clamshell mechanism. Let's call it perventative maintenance
and the unfortunate knack some of us have for taking things apart for no reason.
Also see pdf attached at the bottom...the additional pictures were not showing properly in the initial post.
Put the convertible top in service mode. Refer to the great Pelican Parts guide, and follow disassembly up to Figure 5 of Ref. [1].
Disassembly and inspection of central drive mechanism on the bench.
[1]
Wayne R. Dempsey
, Pelican Parts Guide:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart..._Mechanism.htm
I am working on fixing a sticky throttle. After removing the pedal assembly and pulling on the cable that goes to the position sensor in the dash I don't think it's the pedal. Can this rotary sensor be lubricated or something similar to fix this problem?
It's hard to be smooth on the accelerator and makes 1st and 2nd gear a chore. Picture of cam lever and sensor below borrowed from another user's post:
Washed it. First time I've used snowfoam as my detailer said I had to now the car is ceramic coated. The snowfoam is messy as hell, but it does indeed seem to get a lot of the dirt off prior to the main wash :
Just finished the installation of some 997 heated/power seats. These had the memory feature (as did my 03 C4S), so the wiring for the driver's seat was a real challenge (still have to sort out the driver's lumbar adjustment wiring). Otherwise, the seats are (as others have said) a huge improvement.
Have to give a huge thank you to the many folks who have done similar work and documented it here. While my situation was slightly different, these folks' work got me going in the right direction and made it possible for me to figure this out.
Hi. Thankyou
It�s the Aerokit Cup II bumper kit. Identical to the GT3 item but with a smaller splitter, and radiator ducts to fit the C2 radiators (which I think are smaller than the GT3/Turbo radiators and ducts)
The bumper is a porsche part its part of the aerokit2 package and the same as the gt3 bumper. The radiators.and airducts r c2/gt3 factory parts that came on the car.
I replaced a low beam head light bulb and both parking light bulbs. Both sockets for the parking lights had loose contacts. I was able to tighten them ok by bending them in a bit. The insulation on the wires is starting to decay. Hopefully, it won't turn into a fuse test before I can fix it.
got closer to wrapping up full suspension refresh... 88k miles on stock stuff when removed and now on Ohlins and all new suspension arms etc. Also replaced dust shields and lots of hardware while I was at it.
Also
Tried to change the oil... drain plug is stripped...
Order to Pelican Parts for an LN Magnetic drain plug, another Oil filter and I will be prepared for the next few oil changes, short of the oil itself
I got the LN SS magnetic drain plug. This is one solid piece of hardware and worth every penny. It is a work of art. Can't wait for my next oil change (coming up soon).
https://lnengineering.com/products/d...-18-x-1-5.html
Today I walked through the garage and patted the front fender saying: "See you in April."
Forecast for today:
...and this is the best day in the next five.
Finished replacing 4 pulleys (including alternator overdrive pulley), belt, and engine mounts. I had some rattling like noises from the back of the engine, and replacing the pulleys made things quiet!
Road trip from LI NY to Key West FL, best road trip I have ever taken but halfway home it developed cam deviations. I was daily driving the car before this happened and I fell in love with it as a daily, I was more into e46 M3's at the time. I have decided that since I need to drop the engine to replace the cam pads that I am going to bulletproof everything I can while it's apart and that spiraled out of control a little bit, 1 and done approach so that I can daily drive it again. That bullet proofing ended up including a factory short block I got a smoking deal on (LOL) and with the information we have today I'll get 100k miles out of a factory short block. It's winter in NY right now and cold but I'm hoping to get started with the drop around March since I don't have a garage to work inside but I have been getting everything ready also gathering information for a while. I do have a shed/workshop I built with electric, water, insulation that I will bring the engine/trans inside.
Battery 4 1/2 year old Interstate H6 size and barely turning over motor. Shopping around found larger and higher capacity H7 size batteries for $175 to $250 before taxes. Walmart's website said a local store had one, turns out not in stock and they don't ship them, and I think they never have these in their stores or ship them so they waste how many people's time?
A quick oil change shop Jiffy Lube did have an Interstate brand H7 size, part number MTP-94R/H7, for $175 installed and with taxes. That is the low-cost good-quality provider for a 996 battery in the west Tennessee area. Note new battery has the drain hose same as old one.
I installed a short shift kit and wired in the illuminated ICT shift ****.
There�s an ice storm in Oregon so I can�t drive it but shifting feels so much better than the OEM plastic shifter. Excited to drive it when the weather breaks!
Getting more proficient at pulling the center console out
Shoe shifter
All installed with ICT illuminated
Feel like I'm piggy backing off of
@marosmith
's post.
- Dropped in a new Function First upgrade with a 997 shifter assembly.
- Replaced old grey hand brake assembly with a black one
- Replaced Grey center console with a black one
- New Shifter ****
Just want to say how grateful I am for this community and getting all the knowledge and confidence from you guys to do the work.
You're gonna love that Function First kit. Topnotch piece of work.
I agree on the usefulness of this forum. Heck, even the 986/987/997 folks hang out here. We rock!
Is your light white? I put one of these in a customer's car (along with Numeric cables and shifter) and his light was red:
I had the stock bores plated since there was very minimal scratching. Piston skirts were coated as well. This was a more cost effective solution for my purposes.
--Aaron
I was wondering that too! I set my accuracy at 0.5 mm but it goes down to 0.1 mm. The file at 0.5 was almost 1 GB for the STL export before simplification, so what you see here is a ~70 MB simplified version.
Speaking of sharing, I'm considering selling the scans for hobbyists at a reasonable rate, ping me if anyone is in need and has requests.
If not allowed, I'll remove!
Took out my two oldest for some �advanced driving� demos since the beast needed to be warmed up and taken for a drive.
Post hoon photo:
The slush level was just right.
Just got some quickjacks setup. They work great except one lowers slower than the other (I did bleed them).
my first �job� will be installing 15mm spacers which are on the way.
Just got my sai and heated 02 readinesses to complete. That should be the end of those too issues. Im pretty sure the sai fault was tied to the heated 02 but i did have a vac line off so maybe there wasnt enough vac going though the changeover valve? I did have to repin the dme wire for the heated 02 to get it to clear. More issues arising from some tech jamming the multimeter probe into the plug and spreading the pins.
Just need to drive it to get the regular 02 to test and the evap has not tested yet. Not sure what triggers that readiness. Still hoping the unconnected fuel vent line was the issue i had with that and that system completes
haha, this has been my daily for about 7 years. It�s an 06� with a 6 speed manual, AWD, panoramic sunroof. It�s my work horse. Hauls and tows and does everything I�ve asked.
@marosmith
328xi? I was thinking about buying one and doing an M57 swap...Just curious how you liked the car in its intended form, since I'll probably drive it for a few years before doing the swap....
325xi, this is an 06�.
I love the car, super practical. Crazy rare with the manual. Low maintenance in that configuration. If I keep it someday I wanna do the 3 stage intake swap and make it a 330
Re: e91 chat - here's mine. Also a 6MT. Hands down my favorite daily driver I've ever owned. The 986 has displaced it as the true favorite, but it was a high bar.
N52 is a decent motor - it wakes up with the 3SIM, MILVs, and regular all seasons (ditch the heavy run flats). I may make my wagon track ready this year.
Not all today, but this weekend:
Friday: oil and filter change
Saturday: 400+mi round trip to Ithaca to drop daughter back at school (12-20F all day, some snowy hills, highway speeds)--really appreciating the new 997 seats installed earlier this month
Sunday: still at 4.25" crankcase vacuum for 3yrs now
Yep. Mine is AWD, 6MT. It has been our fearless road trip car for summer vacation for 3 years now. I just hit 140k miles. Planning to drive it till it dies. I think I'm going to acquire some style 68 wheels and mount a BBK on it later this year and take it for a HPDE day. While I've enjoyed wrenching on the BMW, all performance modding aspirations died when I bought the Boxster. Now I aim for reliability over everything else.
Here's a couple posts of all the dumb stuff I've done to the car - the 986 gets all my brain juice these days.
https://www.reddit.com/r/E90/comment..._and_this_one/
https://www.reddit.com/r/E90/comment...l_upgrade_day/
The subs OEM are 5.25 inch woofers. When I purchased car Crutchfield was only source for replacements�Focal 5.5s. They were $1000 a set so didn�t go there. I gave up and built an enclosure for 8 inch subs. All the aftermarket ones were very expensive. Shape wad acceptable but carpet match not. I�m a bass head and two 8 inch type Rs from Alpine(the only brand aftermarket for a Porsche�(sorry Kenwood fanboys) are just awesome! But�I want an OEM LOOK! The solution came as �shallow mount � technology has brought 8 inch install depth down to 5-6� size. It required some modification of the OEM sub enclosure. �Release the Multit00l!�
so I went to work making the Pioneers(found a great deal at Walmart no less�$130 for 2). So 2 hours �After enlarging the openings �it lost some integrity but nothing tape couldn�t fit. It will never be seen. Can�t wait to install OEM Bose subbox back into the car. It�s 15 degrees and my garage is in heated.waiting for warmer temps(40s)
�Re-sealed the box..cloth tape underneath metal tape for SVH reduction.
Down-firing subs� ala OEM
I�m missing the �Bose� brackets which surround the outlet ports. These boxes are still available only in Grey�no other colors or parts available from Porsche and no luck finding the originals. I moved since removing and can�t find them�☹️. If anyone has some�LMK?
Got 15mm spacers on with the 18� turbo twists. Looks good and def can feel the handling difference with the 18� rims, H&R lowering springs and spacers.
I noticed you are using those semi-hard rubber blocks that came with the Quick Jacks. I didn't like the "wiggle" they caused when the car was raised. I made blocks of wood that fit in the recessed trays, now no wiggle.
With 1 rubber QJ block mine is very stable. With 2 QJ rubber blocks stacked up its a little less stability but still very solid.
What size are your wooden blocks..? Are they high enough to drop the engine..? Do you stack up the rubber blocks on top of your wooden blocks..? Any pics
Hard to take a pic, they're under my wife's Honda.
But, picture this, I took 2 x 6's, and cut them to fit inside each of the trays, just fit, no moving around.
Then I took another 2 x 6, cut the exact same size, and screwed them together stacked.
So each block is about 3.2"'s high, which for my 03 996 C2 with stock suspension, is the perfect height to just fit after I fit the "pucks" into the jack points.
For my Cayman, which is lowered, I have to take the blocks out and just put in one small piece of 2 x 4.
Oh, and with the large blocks I can also lift my 2014 Honda Accord with them, works perfect!
fyi, I also have the SUV extender set, but I've only ever once used it on a full size van.
Tweaked alignment and installed new cross members in the rear and front today in preparation for the real alignment and corner balancing� thought this was a cool photo of all the new suspension, wheels, tires, etc
I hate to point this out but I think your rotor is on the wrong side. You have the right (R) rotor on the left side. Opposite of mine. So one of us is wrong.
^^ the e91 won't let you down
Here's me: finally got my 996 gauge cluster wired up and bolted in. Everything appears to work, even had the mileage moved over. I'll probably need a local shop with PIWIS to code out whatever errors the confused cluster has. Maybe I can clear it with Durametric. We'll see! For now, I'm just glad to see my 986 showing signs of life. Gotta do the under drive pulley, button up the interior, and get back on the road!
Is there any chance someone has a link handy for the Onboard Computer user guide/manual? I'm setting up my control switches, but don't know how the menus work and I'd like the button layout to reflect how it works!
NVM: When someone invents time travel I intend to speak to some porsche nerds/engineers...
Yea the pads r the same. The rear calipers share the part number with the gt3 and turbo rears. They have the same important dimentions as the front c2 calipers but they have an extra mounting boss that is tapped to accept a bolt to secure the short hard line. The front c2 caliper hard line bolts 2 the upright.
gt3 rear pistons r 28 and 30mm.
c2 front pistons r 36 and 40mm.
I use the c2 fronts in the rear because the 6-gt3 pistons r large and i needed more rear bias. They reduced the piston size in the 7-gt3 to help equalize the car. My car now has the same percentage of bias as the 7-gt3 but larger pistons so the brakes have a very good responce.
Thats the end of rhe non solocited brake info for today.
New front B4 Shocks, mounts, control arms, inner/outer tie-rods and drop links. Only hiccup was the dust boots supplied by FCP Euro were the wrong size. I have the earlier smaller steering rack that needed smaller boots. Anyone need a set of dust boots can have mine for price of shipping. Got the car aligned and boy what a difference. Now wishing I did the rear at the same time. But I knew I only had enough time to do half the car, so I went with the front since it was staring to get noticeably bad.
�install of the OEM SUB TRAY it�s called. Really always like the interior with full leather in this �peanut butter��natural brown. Waiting on nameplate �Bose� surrounds brackets. The subs are not Bose �farthest thing from it so will come up with @ logo switch later�more to come�word of note. Bose system OEM set up to see 2ohms in parallel�most OEM use this set up to get most out of cheap speakers. Be cognizant of your coils being dual or single �I set up at 1ohm and it kept cutting out the amp. Went to 4ohms�problem solved.
What spectators see�the way Ferry wanted👏🏾
�There is no substitute��. Wow�I always wanted to say that
Love the feet kicked up in the 2nd photo...what tire sizes are you running front and rear? The sidewall thickness looks *chef's kiss*
Same question for you...what's your tire and wheel specs? I have a set of 18x12 Fikse FM10s going into the rear of my C2 and still comparing specs. Thanks!
Did your car come with the sub tray or did you purchase separately?
I think I like this setup more than mine, even though I poured dozens of hours into my box and mounts.
edit: saw your post
here
- great design! maybe I'll redo mine at some point.
I installed a 2 quart oil sump extension . I bought this from Jake Raby , he had done some internal mods/upgrades to the baffles/doors . Anyway all went as expected following the LN instructions . I will wait 2 days before adding oil to let sealant setup . Hopefully no leaks 😋 . Next I will purchase the LN skid plate and install .
While I don't race I am a firm believer in oil volume . I want my 3.8 to live as long as possible . I have the same setup on my 3.6 Boxster since 2015 . I will be able to run 11 quarts thanks to the UAOS .
Quick sanity check question: I get the Oil Indicator Failure error when I start my car post 911 gauge cluster installation. I've checked the contacts on my oil sender - some googling and old threads indicate that it is likely just a defective part. I've ordered a new one from FCP Euro & warrantied the one I have. Here's the part:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...11-80243035001
I'm on the right track, right?
Drove it to work after being down for almost a month waiting for my bent rear wheel to be sorted out. Ended up buying a new one from Porshe! I sure have missed driving this wonderful car!
L&N highly recommends you use DT-40. It's specifically formulated for our cars, no additives necessary. I run a 4K OCI in mine, have been for over 50K miles.
Be careful backing up! That is a considerable loss of clearance in the back. Skid plate will further reduce clearance. Gentle remider: the entire sump is behind the rear wheels!
I feel this. My 986 was in the garage for two months while I broke plastic connectors and waited for replacements doing the gauge cluster swap.
Gonna make sure I have what I need and ample time to complete next time I take the car out of service.
Same. My cheap 8mm got stuck in the old plug, so I'm glad I had ordered the LN.
Also replaced the brake pads and just got back from putting on a new set of Pirelli P Zero Rosso tires. Was a busy few days, buts she feels good as new!
Swapper put the cats for an XPipe yesterday on the 40 Jahre�..should have done this 3 years ago.
Also got the tune. So:
X51 engine
FVD catless XPipe
FVD Tune
Fabspeed Fister Stage 3 modded mufflers
You Tube
Installed a LN Engineering/Bilt Racing sump skid plate . This protects the 2 quart extended sump . Based on comments on this forum I did cover the top side of the skid plate with NVH material . Including the mounting tabs . Haven't driven it yet but I expect no issues .
Yeah I didn't want to take any chances , to me it's cheap insurance vs the possibility of damaging the sump or engine . Speed bumps and steep angles can fool you . Charles Navarro of LN Engineering once hit a dead coyote in the road at 70 mph . The carcass hit the skid plate and lifted the car . No damage to the skid plate or anything else .
Since yesterday, i've been trying to replace the Tiptronic Conductor plate. I have drained the transmission, unplugged the connector, and removed the sump - but i cannot for the life of me reach into the connector to loosen the fitting. Any ideas - what should I take apart to reach this this? I can just barely get my hand in between all the coolant pipes to touch the ring. I can get a socket in the fitting cavity, but can only wiggle it around with my finger tips and cant tell where the socket is related to the fastener.
The bolt is in the center of the electrical socket. Do you have a new socket on hand? If not you should get one.
I changed the conductor plate on my 996 Turbo a couple years ago. It was THE WORST automotive job I have ever done because of that damm socket. Expect it to be stuck in place once the bolt is loosened. The bolt is captive (can't fall out).
I removed everything I could to get decent access. Removing the parking brake cable made the biggest improvement.
Fixed the tears in my seat cushion causing a very droopy seat. Seat feels like new. It was a big project but so worth it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post19286357
Noise
Vibration
Harmonics
The material I bought was from Amazon . Noico is one brand as an example but not what I used . They are all basically sheets/rolls of a tar like adhesive on the bottom with an aluminum foil on the top side . Excellent for cutting down or eliminating NVH .
Sooo….driving home in rush hour Friday afternoon…clutch just disappeared …touch your toes while driving a 911…oh SH* * moment. Thanks to an off duty security guard w3 we’re able to push me onto the median next to the wall. Waiting for tow truck saw the puddle behind drivers front tire. ☹️. Got a tow pretty quick (had let my AAA lapse and they were mor3 than happy to help me if I paid the $215…the money portal opened up. Driver was young so had to help avoid breaking the low font spoiler…m030 row lowering causes that.
Car up on blocks today an$ started removing underbody panels. Now I can see the damaged pipe…also noted “pinch “ in black brake line…could slow the fluid transfer. Will check “bleed speed” when I put her back together.
Also surveyed for “while I’m in there” will try and diagnose the goofy passenger rear view which changes positions when downshifting…it’s distracting. Mirrors are on the circuit with the back up lights and memory seats/mirrors and the “backup switch” on the transmission. (only auto transmission wiring diagrams in Bentley I just noticed but 6spd should hav3 one in similar location. I will test this switch…
…hope it’s not the potentiometers in the mirror itself…a much deeper money hole
. I need the clutch to work so firs5 things first. I found a great write up on this project and the cautions are about the dreaded pressure connections. I remember changing the power steering pump and lines. “Longest repair ever” was awarded me…I ain’t proud….I fixed it.
This is fun stuff and remains the reason I don’t have a newer Pcar …too much access control or non access for Diyers. Any opinions of the black line appreciated to change or not to change? Thx
…nice little puncture in the blue one
The black line…looks intact…will check bleed rate in rear
#9 is the culprit…I’ve read Porsche eliminated some connectors so will be interesting once I get part in to verify this
Looks Great!
I did the same and sampled yellow gauge faces..Also did the same headlights as you a few years ago.
The 18 is the color for the gauge dials...
Just got bumper painted..getting paint correction this week. Calipers in yellow.
Spent the day "behind enemy lines", getting overpriced parts for my wife's G Series.
Got new paint on the bumper and door, added Liqu-moli Jectron to clean up a rough idle. All is well on PCH.
Priority should be on safety here�.I ordered every line that�s busted�pinched�or deformed. I could have also use my HVAC tools to cut out the damage�flare the ends with metal press fittings (as opposed to copper)�. fabricate the bends but I�ll go with OEM solutions. Next stage�remove the damaged lines �
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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/250x154/giphy_1_million_c510fe00ed47dab405a235f7a6db286b30ebe042.gif
Gave my Ferrari Yellow 1999 C2 a good wash in preparation for judged field at Werks Reunion next week then did a drive by to be sure all is good
Rich
You Tube
Thanks! I love them although adjustments are tough. I was thinking of getting the 100% black version as the chrome trim on the turn signals might feel blingy. Had to make my own weatherstripping as well. How did your install go? I added HID.
I thought so. Thanks! You�re very kind. Every shop wanted me to buy a new bumper (1-2k) and these guys masked and refinished what I had which was some cracked paint and sprayed it on the car. Did the same on the door where I botched a touch up. Came out really clean. Given the overall value of the car (less than 30k) that was the right move for me. Added paint correction elsewhere to tie it all in and that did the trick. It�s my PCH performance daily driver and not a garage queen so it worked out well. Auto Dent in San Clemente, Ca did the work.
You're ahead of me by a few miles (138) . Just did the same oil change as well. Changed my filter to the LN spin-on type and use the Corvette filter now. Seems ok.
The car came with standard then I found a set of sport seats in exact color of space grey in Cali
but with the original aero kit I couldn’t resist with these seats from making it look like a GT3
Your interior and car look great Mike. Not to mention the visceral driving experienced is so much better with the GT3 seats. Would love to here your comparisons of your 996, 997T and Boxster one of these days from a driving experience point of view.
To be honest I prefer the my 996 it’s just so engaging I can’t believe what a real 996 GT3 drives like
the 997.2 TTS is a fing rocket wrapped in leather but not as visceral but coddled high power more then anyone needs
the Boxster is so underrated in driving feel yes it’s under powered but great starter Porsche that let’s you emphasize momentum racing
I have always liked the Boxster and Cayman. You can really throw them around. The 997.2 turbo is an very nice car as well. Always comes down to what "feel" you want. You have a pretty nice arsenal of cars depending on what you are looking to drive every day. Nice!
its pretty raw. The power band is so high strung and they didnt seam to care about nvh levels. Also the power levels r matched very well with the ability to control the car with only abs and no tc. The last of the true sports cars.
Painted my DES electric power steering bracket with black Steelit. Love that stuff. Also installed the amplifier bracket I made to mount the Infinity Kappa amp behind the spare tire and hides the wiring. I'm pretty happy with the result. Just need to button it up, I was too excited not to share.
Prepped for a street concours event for the PCA TN region at the VW plant in Chattanooga. My C4S won�t win, it needs paint correction and a dent removed but cleaning a car at this level does add things to the todo list.
I temporarily fixed my shifter cables. Nothing like losing your gears as you are merging onto the expressway at speed. That was not fun.
Shift cables not looking right...
Temporary fix.
Replaced all four corners with Sebro slotted. Put dampers on titanium shims for the PFC 8 pads. Replaced brake fluid from ATE to Motul 600. My front wheel liners are pretty ratty, so I cut and riveted flow-thru 3� x 4� screen directly behind fans. I�ll see if it works by taping off one side and measuring temps. Riveted the wheel deflectors and dive planes.
Brake lines came in and one was �bent� where it should be straight. Re-ordered replacement and will start breakdown�discovered the course these lines run and shields that will need removal. Let�s go�.
Shield
New lines have connectors�yay, just hope they match up
Wet☹️
Too much straightening to do�could damage the line so will get another one
My least favorite job, body work. Trying to clean up the exhaust cut outs on my geto rear bumper and my first attempt repairing a fiberglass part. I broke the front canard loading the car into the truck.
Did you use the Girodisc shims?
Shameless plug- I are still alive and still have a M96 to build for my 01 C4. I have been busting my butt building a new website that will replace the original rennpart.com- you can check out our progress here at rennpartbrakes.com
--Aaron
Swapped the 997 shifter with the Rennline TR08 Short Shift kit back to the original shifter. Much happier with the original shifter. I also tried this Rennline kit in my 997 prior to swapping it into the 996 and didn�t care for it there either. Put the stock 997 GT3 shifter in the 997 and love it.
Sunny and 60s in the front range so I put the summer wheel set back on and took her to meetings in Denver. She always catches my eye for the last glance as I walk away.
Is partworks.de a legit website for purchasing and having items shipped to the USA? An item I am in need of is more affordable there than US part houses. Thank you.
Thanks. Rose Passion price is higher. I did eventually find some good reviews of PartWorks.de on here and other P car forums. The checkout process is kind of odd how they only take bank transfer or Paypal though...
I've had a lot of problems using credit cards for overseas purchases. Paypal doesn't charge any additional fees so it's a very sweet way to go if you ask me. Just put a CC in your Paypal account and, presto.
The fees are hidden in the exchange rate. If you look closely at the amount they are charging versus the vendors foreign currency amount, there is about a 1% fee. It was $30 on what I was going to order. Not a huge deal though.
Installed a gas guard bib on my filler pipe inlet. Didn't like the pump nozzle resting on the painted edge when filling. It's the little things, right?
Couldn't find one for Porsche specifically so this one for a classic Corvette fit perfectly:
Amazon
Amazon
($20 delivered).
Oil change.
Gonna drop the sump next time and see if I've got plastic in there. I'll hit 60k miles soon and I suspect I'll be going after the chain guards by year's end. Starting to think about an engine out and RMS/IMS/Clutch at the same time. Would make a good winter project.
My local Napa has a paint store. They fill arosol cans with automotive paint. I went with a base clear coat but they can do a single stage too. Its not cheap at $20 for the base and $30 for the clear, i have $110 in it for the paint but its much cheaper then a shop.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_6747_144e993ea70057963be605cf5fc5b2fa60d6a83e.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_6744_d24475c26a317e584a24f44ee76a36c1f05a4d35.jpeg
Ahhh, that IS pretty! My car is wrapped (Inozetek Boneyard) so my thought was something that would also match the Silver exterior when I ultimately pull this off and do a repaint.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_6759_9b58df9e55a6ecca01958be50f05a83dfb5a6c26.jpeg
Another one getting ready to go together. This one's for a 01 PTS C4 of mine.
It's always my car that gets done last. I took this one apart last summer and have built two other engines since this one's been in the corner in pieces!
Stock but with some head work from Hamheads. Nikasil plated stock bores. Coated bearings, coated stock pistons.
--Aaron
It could be VERY cost effective if a simple aluminum support ring was installed at the top of the cylinders, you could use the stock pistons with stock cylinders ( Nickasil treated) even without a coated piston.....the reason this isn't already being done on the 3.4 or 3.6 is the cylinders are prone to go oval ( without a support ring ).....the smaller bore 3.2 and 2.7 have thicker cylinders....and can be directly Nickasil plated.....But everyone wants BIGGER......
I ordered the T-Lock from Bergville FX as my remote lock/unlock hasn't worked in 10 years. From the description on the website it looked pretty straight forward - no special tools, about 15 minutes total. The package arrived from The Netherlands in only a couple of days which surprised me. Moving the seat around I realized that there is no way to access the immobilizer without removing the seat, which was not mentioned in the instructions. I watched a YouTube video and saw that I needed an E12 Torx socket to remove the seat. After visiting several auto parts stores, Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace Hardware I saw that I would have to order one online,
The socket arrived and after several days of rain it finally cleared up and I decided to tackle the job. The outside temperature was in the low 50's but with winds of 50mph it felt more like a few degrees above absolute zero. I removed the driver seat, disconnected the battery, and unplugged the large connector. It was at that point I realized that I was not going to attempt tapping into 6 of the approximately twelve million tiny wires in the bundle. I couldn't even figure out how to unravel the wrapping.
I put everything back together and tried to start the car. Not a peep from the starter. I check my battery connection on the negative side and tightened it as good as I can before the bolt breaks. In the process the socket drops into the nether regions under the battery. I had to use a boroscope to locate it but eventually was able to retrieve it with a magnet. I get a replacement nut and bolt at Ace Hardware and try again. No dice. So let's go around one more time removing everything disconnecting the battery, unplugging and re-seating the connector, putting the seat back in, and reconnecting the battery. Success!
So the car is exactly the same as it was before except for a scratched door sill and chipped paint, And I'm half a day older.
Driver�s door wouldn�t open, passenger window regulator was crackling and brake wear indicator light was on. New regulator, door lock actuator, pads and rotors, They�ve fixed all of it and changed the oil, all for a very fair price. It�ll be good to wax and drive her again after she sat for weeks. Wife got me a fresh set of colored wheel center caps waiting to be installed too. I�m actually thinking of selling her. The car, not the wife lol.
I'm sold on painting the center console. Should have done it years ago. Big improvement from rubbery plastic console. Just have to finish painting the plastic piece that sits at the bottom of the emergency brake handle and the center console is done.
Thanks man! They really are awesome seats. You wouldn't think it, but they are very comfortable. About to make my annual trek to Phila from chicago to see the family. Good chance to enjoy the 996. But I bought the seats back in 2006, before prices got out of control. Plenty of other more affordable options available that do the same thing.
I bought s short throw shifter in preparation for a 6mt swap. Next up the g96.31 from LA dismantled. Then I need to find d the clutch and brake pedals along with the rod.
Finished a full suspension refresh... Koni Active shocks, Eibach springs, every arm and bushing replaced, Carrera III wheels from a 997, 7mm spacers in front, 15mm in rear and titanium wheel bolts.
Just need an alignment and then I'm back in business.
Changed the gauge faces today. My hazard switch cracked apart on removal but otherwise pretty fun mod. The car is black w speed yellow calipers. Figured this might be a fun accent.
Installed some red vinyl graphics to break up the sea of black . My wife and I did both sides in about 1.5 hours , took our time . I think it came out good . Red calipers are next .
Well, it was yesterday that I loaded it for the drive to Vermont.
Today�s activity was locating it after a great day of skiing. Can you identify the 03 C4S in this photo?
You can buy oem paint colors in different shapes and sizes. Bought Seal greay from them to do my center console. Paint was great. They take 2-3 weeks to get it too you.
https://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray-paint/
Started preparing for the 2024 season! Took off the tints on the door windows, and am considering coming back for the rear glass + quarter windows later for a full fishbowl effect; using a small steamer made it a breeze. Was less successful resolving my taillight issues, I replaced a bulb but am still missing the secondary light phase when I press the brake with the headlights on. Also played chicken with the apartment complex gods by doing an oil change while a unit was running "open house" tours, got a few side eyes from folks touring the accompanying parking space. Blackstone sample is ready to go, and Feal 411 coilover install coming next week!
Also including a photo of my 'packout' setup from the night before... I live a ~10 minute walk from where I park, so it feels like I have to prepare for war every time. Nothing worse than being in a basement garage mid-project and realizing you need to make a 20min detour to get your 10mm socket.
First Post here on the forum, but I am newest owner of a 2003 C2 Cab. Nothing sexy, but she just got a new starter, motor mounts, frunk struts and cabin filter. I'm just making my way through and updating all of the little bits of this and that that have been neglected or worn out over her first 150k. The new motor mounts make it feel like a brand new car! Old ones were smoked, and probably have been for a while. I'm betting I got a taste of what the NVH would be with solid mounts without the benefits of improved performance! Looking forward to working through the 101 projects book, 2 down, 99 to go!
Preventatively changed the water pump, expansion tank, and all pulleys on my �99 996 with 95k km on it. The original pump and tank both looked fine, no leaks at all, but glad to have a peace of mind.
70% ceramic window tint all around.
Replaced original mufflers with Top Gear.
Also got my first Blackstone oil report and all looks good! Excited for many more years with this car.
Fronts with a 1.75 inch lip
2.5lip for the rears
9inch inners
BBS 3 piece gasket
Assembly before sealant
not sure why the quality is so much lower here but it�s BaconManDan on insta for better resolution
Getting ready for track season. A little bit of body work after an off at summit in November. This is probably the cleanest my car will be for the rest of its life.
Been getting a whiff of coolant every now and then for the past month. Finally started looking and figured out that the t-fitting on the coolant tank hose was a little wet. I figured while I had the system open I�d go ahead and replace the plastic AOS hose junction that breaks all the time. Good thing too, I just barely touched it and and the bottom nipple broke loose. I couldn�t have been far away from a roadside stranding. Was going to go with the Rauch and Spiegel billet aluminum replacement but it�s gone up to $60 now and I just couldn�t stomach it so I got the metal one from URO for $20. Hopefully it lasts.
Inspired by
@LVDell
's
almost-14-year-old post
, I wired a targa shade button to a spare garage door opener.
Custom harness, with taps for illumination from the wiper speed dial
All done! (I also switched out the glossy 996.1 buttons/blank with matte ones from 996.2)
My 25 year old 996 hit 100,000 miles, so I thought it was time to replace some stuff. Last weekend I replaced all the control and coffin arms. This took 2 days and 2 evenings to complete, taking my good time. This weekend I replaced the transmission mount and the transmission fluid.
Car drives and shifts like new.
Sorry, no pics.
SRP Pedals
The interior of my Cabrio has so much saddle beige that I've been wanting to get more satin black and aluminum to add more interest so i just replaced the mats and pedals. I got a new shifter and black boot so that's next. I went with SRP Pedals (
www.srpracing.com
) with the Grid Pattern in Satin...
Previous owner did clutch pedal spring assist removal and the pedal wouldn't engage the switch, so no cruise control. I added a "manual adjustment screw" (read spare screws from other stuff" to my clutch switch so that in theory I can now use my cruise control.
So far it works great. I only say "in theory" because I have a gremlin that I have yet to chase down that cause the cruise activation to only work some times... But, when the cruise control will activate, this fix has been worderfu!
Replaced my original motor mounts with RSS Performance Mounts. 2003 Coupe manual 40K miles. My butt in the seat observation is that it tightened everything up a little. Gearbox feels tighter. Not life-changing but definitely noticeable. Haven't had a chance to wind it out on some curves to see any changes there. There is slightly more interior vibration but I assume that will soften over time and thankfully it's not causing any rattles. Exhaust note seems to be a little deeper now and the high rpm howl is toned down a little (not sure I like that part) - I don't actually know why exhaust note would change at all. Maybe somebody can jump in.
I am replacing the conductor plate on my '02 996.2. After much heartache of getting the retaining screw out the valve body finally came out. It has two plastic covers, that have yellowed and become brittle, over the solenoid banks. One has broken off and cracked, the other has small cracks around its edges. The service manual does not mention them at-all. They have Mercedes part numbers printed on them, that I can not find on the internet.
I have read (
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...id-covers.html
) that they are there to protect the solenoid banks from debris, but I think there would be much greater problems, if there were any significant debris floating around in the transmission. So far there has been none at-all. The sump pan has cleaned up very nicely and the magnet did not have very much sludge.
In the post mentioned earlier, it was suggested to omit them from the re-install.
What do you all say?
Thanks
- Rick
Bought this 99 c2 4 months ago and have been making it mine ever since.
Refresh front/rear bumpers
Painted speed yellow calipers
997 shifter upgrade
all new suspension coilovers, arms, links ect
All new brakes
Refresh powder coat wheels
Rear seat delete
3 spoke wheel
paint correction/ ceramic coat
Now just need a deal on bbs 18� wheels or gt3 wheels and an exhaust and she will be fully done.
4s.
fronts are 6.5 inner, BBS metal gasket, 1.75 outer lip with a 0288107 face
rears are 9.0 inner, bbs metal gasket, 2.5 outer lip with a (very important to know) 0288170 face.
the 170�s are made for the cup cars. Avoid them if you have a c2 if you�re looking to have a nice lip.
Had a good laugh recreating a "tiktok trend" from I think last summer -
"girlfriend's not home... polish the tequipment exhaust tips in the sink"
Bought my car with a dented driver's side tip, recently learned that there was a better OEM option (these EP4110's, X54 option code), and found a killer deal on eBay for $110 that I couldn't pass up. Can't wait to get these on.
Before
After some wheel cleaner, Mother's polish, and a sacrificial sponge
bad as in bada** than yes. The wheels look absolute money and imho perfectly flush all the way around.
Based on the chart below it's 37.2 with what i built. With the metal/rubber gasket that number should be a couple mm off.
Tires are exactly whats on my Techno Sports
Michelle Pilot Sports 4S
Fronts are 245/40/18
Rears are 295/30/18
New England was gorgeous today. Woke her up from the winter sleep today and washed her. Drove a mile and said "**** - are the dryer sheets still stuffed in the engine compartment?" Phew - no problem after an inspection. Took the wifey on a backroad trip. What a joy after driving my Outback for the winter. So solid.
Great in the snow. Had my 2002 for 17 years before I finally gave it up last year...needed head gaskets, a rear subframe, and the transmission was slipping at 264k...
Could you please tell me how you get the INSIDE rim on your wheels so clean!! It is very beautiful!!
Thanks
Rick
[/QUOTE]
Could you please tell me how you get the INSIDE rim on your wheels so clean!!
Thanks
Rick
They only look clean because I had them refinished this winter.I waited for the paint to �outgas� before applying a coating.
Hopefully this will help them stay that way!
Woah, you added a targa switch as a GDO? Sick! I see you went matte, could you have found a glossy OEM targa switch from a 99? Not ready to go all matte. Adding heated hardback seats now and tearing all that wiring up next week. Impressive mod! might look into doing it.
I've only had my 98 for a few weeks and have a list of stuff to get through.
The last week I did the following:
1. First was shifter bushings and the japanese quickshift kit had worn a flat spot on the ball. Turned it around, shimmed things up and it was smooth again. Waiting on my new gear **** to smarten it all up.
2. Intake elbow, resonator bypass.
3. Waterpump replacement, i was convinced it was the hose leaking but was actually play in the pump bearings. Used a Vacuum coolant filler to refill the 10L drained. Worked perfectly! recommend these a lot!
4. Sparkplug tubes on left side, 2 were leaking on manifold... easy replacement.
5. Cracked fill tube, used self amalgamating silicone tape to wrap it. Works for now but will replace.
6. Headunit replacement and wireless android auto dongle, 3d printed the surround.
Also dont laugh at my mats, japanese spec
A few more items to do but will have to wait till a few more parts arrive.
Attempted to install some new seats + delete the rears. Ran into a road block when I couldnt get the old seat brackets off, so now the car has no seats in it. Ordered manual seat sliders for the sport seats and an 8mm triple square to help with removal of the rear seatbacks.
40th anniversary seats for my '99
old
new
rats nest
Depending on what shape your wheels are in, it's possible to get them looking pretty close to new, as long as there is no corrosion happening. Start with Brake Buster for the initial clean and then follow up with Iron Buster to help remove much of the embedded iron particles. I coated my wheels when new and just used Brake Buster for cleaning and the barrels still look new. Brake Buster includes some rust inhibitors in it which helps prevent corrosion.
Amazon
Amazon
Amazon
Amazon
Installed an FSI underdrive pulley. Only place I sense a difference is when rev matching. Not a hard mod. Grinding the timing boss is an *** pain. Takes more metal removal than I thought. I needed to shave it down to the support shoulder, the little mold ridge from case to middle of boss, for satisfactory clearance. I estimate 6-7 mm.
This is something that I should do. Aging rubber, been messing around with different exhaust systems lately and the passenger side tip seems lower than the other. Not by much, just enough to get me frustrated about it. Besides the �big name overpriced � distributors, anyone have a source for oem parts?
Thanks in advance
Put the first 100 miles on it since the shop completed its rebuild/rebirth as a 3.8!!! It feels really, really good!!! Substantially punchier than before with a much broader torque band. Can�t wait for the break in to be done. And to have the 25 year old PPF removed from the fenders :-(
Love your silver seats, they'd match my car perfectly, as I have the console.. I ended up going 997 hardback manual as the drama of adding 14 way, etc is a bear going 997 in a 996. Had Pacific German do it as electrical is not my thing.
Here's how mine came out. Worth the effort. Hang in there. I've done two sets of seats prior and it can be a hair puller at times.
Drives completely different.
Only wish they were that arctic silver
996 Seats. 8 way leather. Bolsters intact. I'm selling these and they are VERY clean. PM me if interested.
overall really pleased, you will be too!
Thanks. Aftermarket from eBay. You can get all black, silver or with a touch of chrome like mine. If I had a do over, I�d go all black. Get mostly positive feedback and being able to add HID finally gave me some decent light. Running lights only work when markers are on.
Today I detailed the interior, washed it, cruised PCH a bit, tested out the "new to me" heated sport seats, and finally
glued the ever exploding OEM vent cupholder back together.
Another round of changes
Blue calipers, waiting for them to dry before putting decals on.
Exhaust mod, cut and welded....although did start it up without mufflers and it was glorious! But would annoy me being too loud.
(Yesterday)
Drove it to my Daughters "Daddy & Me" Day at her daycare to make sure the other Dads know I'm cooler than they are
Though there was one CTS-V there and he parked right next to me. He got the nod LOL
I found a distributor in AZ,,, over %50 less than the usual suspects. OEM mounts $119 each, added some other goodies to the basket also. Well under the $550 price for mounts alone. Just took a bit of searching
really bad bumps on a main road. Think mini speed bumps every 50-100ft. Just poor New England roads. Sad part it was a main road in southern ri (rt.4 near south county commons)
today I ordered elephant racing quick connect camber plates. I also installed my turbo leather carbon fiber steering wheel.
I worked on MY engine today for once! Can't wait to clean up the shop after. I've built 2 engines since this one's been apart and I dissasembled a core to get a crank. It will be nice to get the shelf space cleared up!
--Aaron
the actual damage was a blown strut mount only. It�s was a new aftermarket one from fcpeuro. I also purchased my suspension from them too and connected with them to replace the strut thinking that was the issue. Like every interaction with FCP Euro this was no different. They offered to swap the strut with the purchase and return of a new set. So shout out to their lifetime replacement guarantee.
Another couple of jobs ticked off:
Gundo hack, Fister whatever you like to call it. 1.5" pipe cut and welded. The sound is so much better!
Broke both tailpipe clamps, and broke two bolts on the sleeve clamps...all were well rusted! Despite living in a country with no salt on our roads!
Fresh stainless bolts and a good wirebrush and everything came up nice.
it�s the typical situation where you park your Porsche at the extreme end of the parking area, and then some jerk in an SUV comes along and parks RIGHT next to you
.
My Sunday job for my October 97 built RHD 996 6MT.
I had a cracked oil fill pipe, so that was the job...
Had not taken the alternator out before, but it needed serious persuasion. There is a metal sleeve in the rear of the alternator that the bolt thread adheres to. This sleeve has a tendency to slide towards the rear of the car when the bolt is tensioned. By doing this, it closes the gap making the tolerance to remove the alternator very tight (read impossible to remove). After a lot of tapping the alternator with a soft mallet and WD40 to lubricate it, the alternator eventually came out (note, you need to turn it in a clockwise direction to remove). Changing the oil filler pipe was a breeze. I then hammered the metal sleeve outward (by installing the bolt and hitting the head of the bolt) which made the install much easier than removal.
Reinstalling the drive belt was not plain and simple either ... there are some great tutorials on the web for this, but after much lost skin, swearing, and head scratching I ended up getting it done. The secret is in choosing the last pulley onto which to install the belt, that being the small brown pulley to the left of the pulley that is used to de-tension the belt on removal.
In an attempt to check window drop and latch functions, my remote is no longer locking the doors on my car.
I was using a screwdriver to close the latch with the door open. The window dropped but does not go back up when I cycle the door handle. With doors open, the dash lights do not come on as they did before. Only the interior lights come on.
The remote only makes one beep and does not lock/unlock. Is there a way to reset this?
Added a new ****, the weighted nature of it makes a big difference in feel. Some issues getting it fitted to my quickshift but a quick file and it went on.
Had to reuse the old gaiter as the supplied wasn't long enough to work well.
Also finally got my new exhaust clamps for the tips, so these have finally been installed. Gundo hack is awesome! Can't believe these cars didn't sound like this from the factory!
Swapped out the incandescent bulbs inside frunk and under engine deck lid. Brighter, less power and less heat. They look good. Here is the front LED. $10 at NAPA.
black c4s convertible
Anyone ever consider replacing their black top
with a different color? I am eying a blue canvas on Etsy. I think the contrast on a black car would be nice.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1292030571/porsche-[phone removed]-2010-cabriolet?ref=listings_manager_grid
Had to change a flat at my daughters softball game (heard hissing when I parked only to discover my rear tire quickly losing air). Luckily, my wife was already there so I took the Audi home, grabbed some power tools and by the middle of 3rd inning I was done. Discovered I couldn't close the frunk with the rear tire in it. Rather than mess with it, I just threw it in the Audi. I have to assume it would fit, no? Are we supposed to put the flat in the back? Anyway, here she is back in the garage. My wife commented that she "liked" the red wheel...
Changed the solid transmission mount for a stock one with powerflex insert. what an awesome difference. Made the car so smooth and enjoyable to drive after all the vibes and noise that the solid one causes. Used an AGA tool, and did it on small jack stands. Would be so much easier on a lift!
Anyway, great improvement.
Pulled my some very ugly bits of 20 year old clear bra off the fenders and from under the gas filler door and continued putting miles on the freshly rebuilt 3.8. Absolutely loving the way the engine feels now.
Yellowed and gross
MUCH better.
Wait a minute -- your spare actually had air in it??? I call BS!
Reminder to everyone to fill your spare if you haven't done it in a number of years (it will likely be empty -- mine had 4 psi
)
No, it had less than 20psi. I mentioned in my post I went home for power tools - one of them was my Ryobi inflator as I knew I'd have to pump it up (to 60psi).
Since getting the flat I swapped out my 5-spoke Carrera II wheels with base wheels I picked up cheaply from another Rennlister. I'll be getting new all-seasons mounted and then will have the faces refinished as they are really beat up. Anyway, discovered it was most definitely time from new tires (and this one wasn't the one that went flat!):
Time for new tires and an alignment
Base wheels mounted. Pretty beat up...
Also looking forward to installing this beautiful piece of engineering:
I plan on getting summer tires for the 5 spokes once I get the suspension sorted.
Removing "clear bra" PPF from the front of my car. 5 hours later I'm about 1/3 the way through.
I've learned that there is a technique to it. It's old, but I can get it off in like credit card sized chunks using just a steamer.
Currently soaking my fingers in a bowl of ice water so that I can use them tomorrow to finish.
edit: Tomorrow should go a lot faster. It took me a while to learn the right technique. The wrong technique frustratingly yields small pieces.
Only five hours so far? You're lucky, I think I was in for 40 hours on the Cayenne's PPF when it was all said and done. It mostly came off in dime sized pieces and if I managed a quarter sized piece, I started popping the Champagne.
I was bitching about it on a BMW forum and someone told me about plastic razor blades which I never knew was a thing until then. If I had know about them at the start, it might have only taken me 30 hours to remove it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093GWGL56/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093GWGL56/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Yeah, I looked at some YT videos before I got started. I have a steamer, heat gun, and plastic razor blades.
I made some good progress today. All that's left is the front bumper between the headlights. I'll probably take a few days off to give my fingers some time to heal up. I'm a pretty hands-on guy when it comes to working on cars, yard work, lifting weights, etc... but this sh*t has my hands on fire. Much respect to people who do this for a living.
PPF seems like a good idea...until you have to deal this crap like this.
I called around and asked my detailer and tint shop would they do it: "Nooope."
I got a number for a guy who does it: "$75/hr".
I once was close to buying a GL63 AMG that had full-body PPF on the truck when it was traded in to a dealership. One panel had the PPF removed. Paint looked amazing underneath the tired PPF. I asked the dealer, "The paint is awesome. Why did you stop removing the PPF at one panel?" He just looked at me. Now I know why.
Larry from Ammo NYC uses a water kettle to pour boiling water on the PPF. He says that it beats using a steamer and is the best method he’s found for removing it.
I put in another hour on the clear bra after dinner this evening. Now I'm absolutely convinced that the film used on the bumper is a different thickness than that used on the hood, fenders, and mirrors. That which is on the bumper is noticeably thinner. It simply breaks a lot faster than the aforementioned panels. After an hour I only manage to remove about a 4x6" patch.
I tried using hot water from an electric tea kettle and it
did
manage to heat the glue up very well, it also heated up the film to the point where it broke even faster. I suspect that this technique would be great if you had a severely cracked film and you were just going to scrape it all off with the plastic razor. This method won't work well on the bumper cover because there are more curves than flat areas.
The only method that I haven't tried is the 3M "Stripe Off" Pinstripe / Adhesive Remover wheel:
Amazon
Amazon
It's slow...but significantly faster than my current pace...and it saves my fingers. It'll probably **** off my neighbors if I'm doing it at night with the garage door open. "whirrrrrrrrrrrrrrr...."...for 3 hrs. So, garage door closed and noise-cancelling headphones on.
Gonna try that next. If that isn't effective, I'm just gonna bite the bullet and pay a pro to finish up this last 25%
I have been taking some time (evenings) to enjoy the new engine I built in my 996.
I did not realize the sky was purple Friday when I was out for a drive.
Running well, just crossed 1000 miles in a little over a week. Those 200 mile round trips to VIR add up!
--Aaron
Oh man that sucks! Well hopefully no one was hurt and the car can always be replaced but that would totally suck. Was it this recent storm this past weekend? We had really bad weather here in Houston!!!
So sorry to see this.
Your "the trees though" comment is hilarious. I can't "like" your post though -- seems wrong like to click "like" given the events depicted
.
One thing we know for sure, the wind must have been in excess of 70 mph to raise the rear spoiler.
Who re-skinned those seats? They look brand new!
And mice. The last several cars that I've had in my shop have had mice nests in the frunk, center console, or on top of the engine!
--Aaron
finally finished my garage repaint, reclear, paint correction and polish. Lightly tinted the front headlights with clear/paint mix.
I'll clean the trim and ceramic coat it soon....
The local stray cat. I have two of them that hang out around my house.....feed them some food and they deter not only mice, but snakes and roaches as well!
Ha! As it just so happens, there
is
a neighborhood cat that I see on camera in that exact same area every now and then. My only concern is that the coyotes will be interested in the food as well 😅
Made great progress getting the clear bra off of the front bumper. Finished that part and thought I was done. I was doing a celebratory wash and then I noticed PPF behind the front wheel arches. Doh!
I'll do that tomorrow.
The 3M wheel worked, but it made a mess as it leaves its rubber behind as a byproduct, exactly like a pencil eraser, except it's sticky. So, the effort saved is negated by the laborious cleanup afterwards. Between that and the fact that I was advised that using the eraser wheel on a plastic bumper (not a metal door, fender, or hood) may be disastrous if the wheel heats up the bumper such that it starts releasing the paint. Luckily, that didn't happen in the area that I tested.
Almost done...almost.
Hang in there on the PPF. All of the dialog on Rennlist has pretty much convinced me not to spend $$$$$ on front end film. They all espouse the virtues of protection but no one talks about having to get it off.
Ceramic treatment - maybe. PPF - not for me.
PPF / clear bras are pretty good
if
they are removed in a timely manner when they are still elastic. I think when these cars change hands (and 911s change hands very often), people simply lose track of how long it's been on there. That's what happened with me.
It's not worth it to me. I've never had it installed on any of my cars.
Real talk, I'll happily install an old-school leather bra on 996 for road trips, if I could find one.
EDIT: Oh snap! They might be available:
https://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-...-Bra-srch.html
Finally
got all of the clear bra off. It was on,
- The frunk lid
- The front fenders
- The front bumper cover
- The mirrors
- Behind the front wheel wells as splash guards
- In the door handles to protect from finger nail scratches
I literally spent about 12-15 hours doing this over a week. I'm sure that I saved myself $1,000 in labor.
Thankfully, no clear coat or paint was removed. I did manage to leave two 1cm scratches on the rocker panels which were from the plastic razor blade holder (not the blade). I had it flipped over and a metal edge caught the car. 100% careless.
The MVP was the $50 household steamer and the runner up was a spray bottle of Goo Gone. Believe it or not, rubbing with a microfiber cloth filled with hot, soapy water did wonders to remove the glue. Faster than using Goo Gone.
Here is a bag with about 2lbs of PPF, the largest panel was about the size of a dollar bill. The bag is about 16" tall.
I was at the Porsche dealership today checking on parts and I saw a new Carrera T in there with full body PPF and I broke out into a cold sweat 😰
What gets me are the guys that cover their car with leading edge tape for track days. I've seen more Corvettes mummified with that stuff... must be a lot of work to put it on then take it off without pulling any paint off.
Might be a dumb question, but someone pressed too hard on one of my switches (defroster) on the dash before I got, how the heck do I get it back in place? Thanks!
You have to pull off the "horseshoe" and push the button back into place from the rear.
Lots of videos on how to do this. Maybe search for "996 head unit installation" or something like that to see what's involved. You just need a plastic trim removal tool.
On a difficulty scale of 1-5, it's a 1.
When putting in storage, I use bounce dryer sheets and I put 000 steel wool in openings (tail pipes, air intake). I also spread snap traps in the garage with peanut butter.
Took the overly dark tint off and installed one of those PCM knockoffs from Ali Baba.
i know it�s not OEM, but install was plug and play and it works incredibly well.
I'm replacing bits from the PO - broken radiator shrouds and brake ducting. Also cleaning the radiators and adding Rennline screens into the bumper. Going to try to get the front lip spoiler done this weekend as well.
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Very cool SuperCup! But we�re all aware that �exercise� is being used very loosely.
I replaced my torn, original transmission mount with a new one, and installed the softest (orange) Function First transmission mount inserts, today.
I also installed the two diagonal braces/struts that connect the body to the engine support.
After a brief test drive, I can�t stop smiling. The two braces have taken out a lot of slop from the rear end during turns. Power delivery to the rear tires is much quicker than before. It feels like there�s been an improvement in efficiency.
The transmission mount and inserts have made shifting a total joy. The gearshifts are much crisper, and rev-matching is a lot easier now, too.
I do notice some NVH, though. It was immediately apparent upon the first crank of the car. The NVH is actually kind of nice. I don�t have any exhaust or intake mods (they�re bone stock, and will remain that way), and the vibration gives me a sense of what the engine is doing throughout its rev range. I am glad I didn�t choose a harder insert - this is perfect for me.
So if you haven�t had a chance to install your Function First transmission mount insert (and replace your trans. mount) you really ought to do it! It�s elevated my love for my car.
Replaced the wheel center caps. I had lost two emblems. These are the wrong ones but they were a fraction of the cost of the correct ones and they fit and look "ok". I'll get used to the shine.
Old
New
I didn't like the previous cap mod for my intake, so quickly modelled a new one in Fusion and printed.
Added a groove for a rubber o-ring and its a tight fit install, with some silicone added to hold it in for sure.
Used an old centre cap logo to add some flair lol.
What type of filament did you use to print it? I don't know a lot about it, but PLA may not be ideal for engine compartments temps. I think printed ABS can handle higher temps, but we had issues when we tried to print with ABS.
You probably know more about it than I do, but just mentioning because you wouldn't want melty stuff to go in to the intake
Using PLA+, if its hot enough to melt it then my paint will be melting on the boot lid!
I wouldn't use it on a part bolted to the metal of the engine though.
I was very tempted to go with a RS blue like what you photoshopped, but as mine has Metropol Blue interior I decided I wanted to go with a midnight blue. Its subtle, which was my goal
Its a little more visible from this angle
I have a few PLA+ parts in my car but none in the engine compartment. Michael on the Teaching Tech YouTube channel is a car enthusiast in addition to being a 3D printing guru. He uses Apollo X filament that is heat and petroleum resistant for things he puts into the engine bay. I bought a spool but haven't used it yet. Pricier than PLA+ but might be worth it. I've found that UV light is more detrimental to PLA+ than heat is, so I generally clearcoat things that will be outdoors and haven't had any issues. I did an experiment a few years ago and left an untreated PLA+ part on the dashboard of my VW, which was not garaged. After about 6 months of being exposed to the sun, it just turned to dust when I grabbed it.
The beauty of 3D printing parts is that you can always print more if you're worried that they're starting to fail. I 3D printed replacement Cabriolet caps and Becker radio ***** 4 years ago and they're still going strong.
Washed the car and applied a spray wax. Modern spray wax is so much faster than the old school paste. Sure, the paste lasts longer, but it is such a PITA to apply and remove.
Pro tip: I found an old Weed Eater Power Blower 2510 high-powered corded leaf blower at an estate sale for like $20.
Absolutely PERFECT
for drying cars. According to documentation I found online, it blows
110 MPH
🤯. It's so powerful, I need ear protection when using it. I also have a cordless Milwaukee leaf blower, and it's like a kid's toy compared to this thing.
I literally had the car dry in about 2 minutes, including the engine bay.
Oh, and the Turbo wheels are soooo easy to clean. Lots of big flat surfaces.
This is the smallest car I've owned in a while. It's so satisfying to get it washed and waxed so quickly.
After a little online shopping, I've found that one can get a similarly powerful electric blower new for under $50. And for $100, one that can blow 260mph!
Cool. A few months ago I started doing the same thing with my leaf blower. Very fast, and then just a little touch-up with a small microfiber towel. No longer have to worry if my towel is doing any damage to the finish. And it can blow water out of the mirrors and various seams and cracks -- which often shed a few drops, and the resulting hard-water streaks, on the newly cleaned car when I pull it back into the garage.
For you guys doing 3D printing, what model printer are you using? A few years ago when I was looking, a company called 'Creality' seemed to have good reviews but a current search shows a unit from 'Bambu Labs' seeming to be well liked at $700.00.
Milwaukee must make more than one model. Mine is rated at 120mph and easily blows my leaves into the neighbor's yard. I went with Milwaukee over something cheaper because I already have so many tools that use their battery.
Yeah, I just searched and found out that they make several models. There was only one in the hardware store when I got mine, the Milwaukee 0852-20 that uses the M12 battery system. I chose that one because I use the M12 system for my tools. I'm not a pro, so I don't need the all-day power that the M18 would provide. Actually, I've never run out of juice using the power tools. Only when using the leaf blower when blowing off the driveway and whatnot.
Amazon
Amazon
Only way I dry all my cars! And yes the spray wax (NexGen) works much better. I plan on doing mine (all five) probably monthly as the sun is wicked here in Houston!
Having it test fitted. I ordered aero II skirts from suncoast along with two new tail lights, a 3rd, and a 4th brake light from them. I really dislike the �blank� option for a brake light. Once the skirts get here I�ll go in for paint. Oh yeah my seats came in too. Euro spec Sport Seats in full leatherette. Love the leather backs
I�ve had good success with my Prusa MK3S+ with PLA for indoor use and PETG for outdoor stuff, but have done nothing going into an engine compartment. I�m reading the bits about PLA+ with interest.
I'm using an Ender 3 with a load of upgrades.
I've got some carbon filament also, but find PLA is just as good for most things. I also use a bit of TPU for freestyle drones and some motorcycle vibration mounts for dashboards etc.
In my experience PLA works pretty good, i haven't had any melt on me yet despite some of the things i've put it in/on.
I also often get items CNC'ed out of aluminium etc, often from china as its substantially cheaper than I can get in NZ!
That's a little like asking what's the best oil - people tend to have brand loyalty. There have been some great improvements in 3D printers recently and there are many good choices. If you like to tinker and learn as you go, you can get a Creality Ender 3 (several different versions) for under $200. I have two of them. These printers require assembly and adjustment. For me this was a good way to jump in because you will understand how each component works as these are basically kits that you need to put together. Newer models require little or no assembly and are usable right out of the box, but come at a higher price. One very nice aspect of the Ender 3 is that there are millions of them out there and great community support. Prusa, Bamboo, and higher tier Creality printers are less of a project, have more features, but are more expensive. There is a bit of a learning curve with all of these printers but somewhat less with the newer generation. For printing PLA, any of them will do nicely. If you want to print ABS, Nylon or Carbon Fiber you'll need a higher end printer or make some upgrades to your lower tier printer.
We have the Creality CR-6 SE, with upgraded parts. Honestly, I would recommend going for something better. It's been problematic. The good thing is that there are a gazillion parts available for the Creality, very inexpensively, but we've just had a lot of issues with it. For challenging prints, or printing with ABS, it hasn't worked well. Ours has been broken for at least 6 months, and this time we can't solve it -- we've replaced the feeder (with a stronger version) twice, and the nozzles, and the guide tubing, but it just doesn't work. If you are going to do a small number of prints with PLA, it might be fine, but if you really want to use it long-term or with more challenging prints/material, I'd opt for something better. We are in the research process now, so I can't advise which models are better, but I wouldn't do the Creality again given that the (I hope at least) better printers aren't that much more expensive than the $400 spent on the CR-6 SE.
Yeah, I'm interested in getting into 3D printing again. I was making prototype bicycle parts about 5 years ago and struggled with a budget printer. I would hope that the tech would have come a long way in terms of getting quality prints without drama since then. I spent soooo much time fiddling with printer settings (digital and physical) that it was exhausting. I'd rather spend all of that time in the design software.
I guess I could upload the models to be printed by one of these companies and shipped to me, but that kinda removes the "rapid" from "rapid prototyping".
I'm not familiar with current offerings. Are there any high quality machines that are stupid easy to configure and use?
The Bambu Labs X-1 and the Creality K1 Max are the new kids on the block. They offer a lot of good features like direct drive, Automatic Bed Leveling, and enclosures, and are super fast. I've been running my Creality Ender 3s for 4 years without a single issue. I think the CR-6 might have been a problematic machine. This new generation of printers is set to go right out of the box. Check out reviews by Chep and others you YouTube.
My new to me 996 4S. Was finally able to bring it home a month and a half after purchase. Was in the shop for critical maintenance, repairs, and some upgrades.
I've done quite a few prototype type parts for motorcycles/cars etc, from gear shift mechanisms for Nortons, to headlight brackets for custom builds.
One of my last ones which I printed in PLA till I got it right, then sent the file to china to have it printed in 6000 series aluminium. Cost was very reasonable at the time with lots of companies offering online instant quoting.
I have a background in design & engineering so that helps
I did this:
I broke my left SPL drop link in a tight right hand turn.
I heard it break!
So I ordered a new set of Tarett drop links.
The red will match my new 2-piece lower control arm inners from Tarett.
Dyed the soft top. It�s original to the car from what I can tell. It functions well but shows its age and the gray had turned more of a gray-brown. I figured I didn�t have much to lose and used a black dye and I�m very happy with the result.
Before
After
I spent a huge amount the past month post-purchase (up to 80% of purchase price) but half of it were due to critical service updates and unexpected problems (IMS/RMS leak, struts leak, overheated clutch/flywheel).The car now has a KW V3 kit/drop links/lower control arms, new clutch/flywheel, new tires, refinished wheels, paint correction/ceramic coating and interior detail, dent removals, new rocker panels, and other minor repairs.I plan to upgrade the exhaust system, add PCCM+, and a shifter upgrade but I'll delay these for now after the unplanned huge initial ownership cost.
Fixed my frunk switch. Wouldn't work because a mouse (quite a while ago) had chewed partially through a wire and it finally gave out.
Went ahead and spliced in a connector and now everything works as it should. Also, while I pulled all the front trim out, I did a little cleaning and made sure you couldn't tell a mouse have ever been there.
Took a gamble on special ordering (no returns) a modern Turbonite frunk emblem. I got it because it matches the grey, silver, black theme of my Seal Grey 996 C4S.
To anyone looking to do this, know that modern Porsches have a recess in the hood/frunk for the emblem. So, if you use the modern plastic/rubber back to the emblem, it will sit up high with a pronounced lip all around. The 996 rubber part will fit if you hold it in place as you tighten it. This provides sort of a ramp up to the badge as opposed to a right-angle lip.
I ordered a new OE 4s lip, confirmed with my body shop I wanted it color matched and painted to my car with the bumperetts removed as well. I also dropped off the Aero II skirts as well. Personally I don�t like the 4s aero front lip so I�m doing without that.
PSA:
If you lower your coilovers, you need to re-adjust your swaybar pre-load, or else your droplinks can snap.
I replaced them yesterday with the Tarett droplinks.
They are heavier and appear stronger..
Now just waiting for an alignment. (due to also replacing the 2-piece control arms)
It was not as bad as you might think.
The handling was affected, but not to where it was uncontrollable.
Yikes! Belt time!
was adding in a BMC air filter and touched my V belt and noticed the whole thing had split in half. Decided to go get a new belt and put that on as well. Looking good!
Thanks for the reminder. My belt is in good shape, but it hasn't been changed in a while, so I just ordered a belt. It's kind of crazy how easy it is to install -- it looks like it would be a nightmare, with all those pulleys, but it looks super simple.
Finally got the tip separated from the engine. Those torn bolts into the adapter plate are a bear. Got a new aos in since the factory one failed on a dramatic fashion. Now waiting on new upper Trans mount, intake orings, hydraulic pipe, etc to finish mechanically.
Replaced all 6 spark plugs and Coil Packs, all 6 coil packs were cracked! All 6 were original 996 versions, now updated 997 version.
Only ever had one misfire warning, on cylinder 1.
Running great!
Got some new plates and 3d printed a mount to follow the shape of my bumper.
Also 3d printed a plug for the towing eye hole and painted to suit and replaced my bonnet struts.
New serpentine belt and tensioners have also arrived so will be installing on weekend.
Got in to go for a drive and it wouldn't start. The battery tender was plugged in so either the battery or the battery tender is bad.
The Interstate battery was six months old when I bought the car, now 7.5 years old so I'm assuming battery but I will test it before buying a new one.I'm a fan of Interstate as I had one last 15 years in my old 911T.
Even 7.5 years isn't too bad for a battery.
The 1970 era cars had two smaller batteries, one behind each headlight (for balance?). When I took the bad driver's side battery to Interstate, they were amazed at how long it lasted and they used it for display on their countertop for a couple of years.
New driver's side battery on the left and passenger side on the right. I sold the car to a friend shortly after this but he said the passenger side battery lasted another 2 years for a total of 17 years.
New tensioners courtesy of cars245.com
I got the wrong serpentine belt length so have had to reuse the existing belt as it was in pretty good condition. A tensioner and the idler were badly worn though, so definitely worth doing. Will order another belt soon.
Took her to see her friends at the Colorado Concours d' Elegance in Littleton today.
First 912 "Polo" motor in the world, as featured in Excellence" magazine in 2012.
Weissach GT3 RS
I finally finished replacing the speakers in my 996 C2. The original foam surround had rotted and caused a rattle on low notes that was unbearable. My car has the base level sound system. The original speakers were 4-1/2" full range drivers in each corner. There were no tweeters.
I replaced those with Kenwood 4-1/2" drivers. In the front I used coaxial speakers. In the rear I used dual-cone speakers.
I only listened to it briefly after I finished the installation. So far, it sounds ok. There is more highs in the front now. The bass is still thin due to the lack of any real woofers.
My new to me 997.1 airbox arrived this afternoon from Rennpart. Could not wait to clean it up and get it into that engine compartment! Dropped a new BMC filter in there for good measure as well. I don't expect any real performance gain from the box itself although I can't stop staring at the silver PORSCHE logo! It's been bored and sleeved as a 3.6, so I love that the badge finally says that! Pretty much "plug and play" reusing the 996 snorkel. The 3.6 box (vs the 3.8) fits right in with no mods.
I have been tempted to. I have an IPD Plenum that is going to go in next, but I really am wary of visual smog inspections and police around here that write you for noise and everything else. I hear ya!
Just stuff a Mobil1 one gallon jug oil cap in the resonator part and leave the oem intake boot on. I ran like that for a while before I went to the GT3 plenum and intake boot.
They do. They also inspect the car looking for mods. There are �loud exhaust� warning signs entering Laguna Beach. I had the IPD plenum painted blk so it does not stand out.
Real talk, I'm all for nice sounding exhausts. But, it's the a-holes that mess it up for everyone.
My home is adjacent to a street with nice acoustics. There is a natural berm on one side of the road from which exhaust notes reverberate back to the car. So, every straight pipe (car or motorcycle) in the suburbs seems to wind it up at all times of day and night. We are woken from sleep at least once a night from this.
Yeah, cry me a river, but this sh*t is annoying af. There is one guy that literally rides second gear on his motorcycle for a full half-mile down this 30MPH road.
For those who don't have to deal with such, consider this a +1 in in your blessings column.
Why anyone would want to live there now is beyond me. The governor has done such a great job of putting a once beautiful state into a cesspool of homelessness, drugs, lawlessness and theft, they have to now turn to ticketing people for modifications to help keep the state afloat! What a shame!
Comment checks out for someone living outside of Houston...Situation also checks out for Laguna Beach lol
They're looking for ******** in Hellcats, and Nissan owners with a pops & bangs tune, not 911 owners.
The governor is an Ahole, but he is not the reason for mod tickets, the population is tired of the noise from 9 million registered motorcycles in CA along with all the fart can cars, alot of Harleys and crotch rockets.
interesting fact: only 10 States have more people than we have motorcycles in California, Florida is not far behind either.
You're right. that is exactly why they are so strict. PCH (hwy 1) attracts quite a few Lambos and Ferraris, Ducatis winding out at all hours and we hear it. Even on our little street. We have a Harley in our household as well, so we try and creep into the hood and not disturb the peace. I have Fisters and it makes a "WW2 P51 Mustang" sounding tone. My wife loathes it, but it's my aria...
I was born in LA and lived here all my life and the quality of life in recent years has declined big time, driving us out of the city to the beach. If I wasn't addicted to PCH, sunsets and being at the beach all the time, I'd move. It's also painfully expensive and creeping upward. for me, the work is here so I'm a bit stuck. My retro black license plate (not personalized) alone is a extra 40 bucks a YEAR.
Not sure I follow what is meant by your post? We here in Texas we have nothing like what CA has. In fact law enforcement is actually really chill and as long as you're not doing stupid crap leave ya alone. We don't get pulled over for loud exhaust or modification checks....so help me understand your post!
[QUOTE=2mAn;19493342]Comment checks out for someone living outside of Houston...Situation also checks out for Laguna Beach lol
Please explain yourself as I don't understand what is meant by "comment checks out...." We don't have homelessness anywhere near the staggering amounts CA has. You try walking out of a store and not paying with $999 worth of stuff, you will be shot here because we don't put up with that BS, etc.....so please explain what is meant.
He is saying the opinion he gave of CA is based on what a Texan hears about CA not from first hand experience.
Now back to our regularly scheduled program....porsche
Thank you for the explanation! But for whatever it's worth, I do business in CA and it's not just "what a Texan" thinks/feels, it's reality......now yes back to the topic at hand
1: Texas is weird AF. Texans' sense of superiority (especially when their situation objectively sucks) is only rivaled by people from NYC.
2: Texas has its own share of issues that make the national news damn near on a weekly basis.
3: Those who live in glass houses...and all that.
Does that help you?
Thank you, back to 996 stuff...
Did you cut the slots for the 'RS' style vents or ...?.... My front bumper has seen better days and I think rather than repainting it again I want to bust of the drill and dremel to make the aero changes I have planned. Pretty sure you started with a GT3 front bumper, is that correct?
Also, is that a demonspeed front lip? hows the fit?
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Not that it matters all that much but I�m in CA a lot and will be in San Diego in August. The only city that I�ve seen really go is San Fransisco, super sad because I love that place. LA and San Diego was about the same more or less. I�m a Florida Man and noting that for transparency purposes.
Not today but I installed a Manthey shifter and along with a Function First Shift Right kit, there is no plastic in the assembly. It�s not notchy or clunky but very direct with zero slop.
It's all good. I wasn't born or raised in SD but a lot of natives would consider being called 'the same' as LA an insult.
I personally connected to The OC more than LA.
Yes its a factory aerokit bumper (gt3). i just eyeballed and measure carefully and cut the slots with a grinder/dremel. Epoxed on some Lowes gutter screen to the back side. I also did a 2rd rad and chimney to direct the air up like a gt2.
The ds lip fits with a little work. U do have to drill new holes and flex it some on the corners. I will have to nut and bolt it because the plastic pins wont be strong enough.
I can see the rad conversion toward the end of my build thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/1251322-another-one-bites-the-dust.html
Hi, good to know! Any reason you didn�t go with Numeric? They seem well made and was planning to get one to replace my 997 short shifter. 1st going into 2nd is a bit rough.
It was super sunny day so it was a Taco run on PCH and the beach, picked up a repaired iMac topped up the oil, conditioned the leather and then a late afternoon bath.
I drove a .1 with a Numeric and felt like it was too notchy, with slight resistance going into every gear. While some people like that feel, I just wanted to eliminate the slop and not necessarily change the shifting dynamics.
I get you and it was just an observation, there hasn�t been a drastic change in SD since the first time I went 25yrs ago. Same for LA. I�m not saying they�re alike, they individually haven�t changed as much as SF has within the same time frame. Should�ve explained that better in my first post.
I have the 997 shifter in mine and while its not bad and a considerable improvement over the 100k+ mile 996 one that it replaced I'm looking at adding Numeric cables next to try and tighten it up
While putting the new 6MT axles in found grease leaking from one of the wheel bearings. So I've got the wheel carrier off the pass side and in process of pressing them out. Just got the new bearings delivered today.
New battery. The old one lasted 7.5 years.
I also went with Focal but would probably go with something cheaper if I had to do it over again. They might be a tad over kill for these cars.
Do a future owner a favor and get these pigtails so you don't have to hack up the existing wiring.
I like them enough that I have floor standing in the living room and some bookshelfs in the workshop.
Look greats. I have the same console w hardbacks in mine! Well done. Would you ever do the bezel surrounding the radio? I thought about it and left it alone.
Finally installed the IPD Plenum today to complete the intake mods project. Not as tough as I was expecting. Just be super careful and take it slow.
25 year old plastic is a minefield.
Last week it was the 997 Airbox and BMC filter. Noticed smoother power curve and sounds "throatier" with the Fisters, less of a high pitched whine winding it out which the wife liked. It's bored to 3.6 so the intake overall should help it breathe easier.
This part is really well machined.
Old and new. Had them paint the part to make it less obvious if there is an inspection...
All went pretty smooth. Keeping the old part just in case.....
I read that the Numeric cables are "noisy" so read up on them. I was (and still am) considering the Numeric w new OEM cables, but the 997 short shift is fine after everything warms up. 1st to 2nd can be a bit rough in the am.
Awesome! I'm looking at the new ASE speaker series for when I upgrade the Bose units. I love the Focal clarity and also own a pair of Focal Chora 816 towers powered by a Marantz integrated amp. They really pump out some realistic sound, as if you were there.
BTW, is that a stock size battery? Looks a bit smaller than mine, which looks like it belongs in a truck!
Took the drivers seat out and delivered to an upholstery place to replace the foam in the base. It's a job I tried to DIY, but as I was taking off the leather, I realized it would need special tools to pull it back together. Looking forward to having the seat heater work this fall. It's a cab and the top is only up if it is pouring rain.
Not the first time I've taken that out is why it looks so clean under there!
We just did this on my wife's 986.2. I thought it was only an issue with the bottom seat pad but there's a circuit in the seat back as well. We ended up having to replace both the seat bottom and the seat back. Hopefully you won't have the same situation.
Mind reporting back how much it cost? I replaced the bottom foam on my passenger side a couple years ago. You only need hog rings and pliers, but it was a pain to do. If there's a next time I'll just pay a pro to do it, but curious how much it might be.
I tried taking out my front seat and it had way more cables than this, and they were not easily "unclippable" from my untrained eye. But I did manage to vacuum under and it was lovely.
It's an 'H6' and is spec for my low optioned '99 C2. I noticed that the battery tray has another threaded hole for the clamp so I think you
can
fit a larger battery.
Ha!
@plpete84
said the same exact thing but used Coke as the example via IG. I�ve had the car for 4 years and didn�t know it had SRF. I know now that it has to be done semi-annually to annually. Learned a lot with the install.
I've thought about it but I'm not sure I would like it. I would need to see one in person. I was thinking of painting the batwing and the trim piece around the HVAC controls and cubby. It would continue the silver theme for both console pieces.
I considered that as well, but my batwing (just replaced it after adding heated seats) has a slight texture to it so painting it worried me. The HVAC trim might look cool. Been googling over what I see out there, with the 991 badge, or some have the vents etc.. all in.. Less is more IMHO.
Failed my roadworthy test (WOF in NZ) on my front high beam being blown. Miraculously my brake lights also stopped working on the day of the test too.
Brakes were just a wiggle of the brake switch and a clean that was easy, Headlight one of the HID Bulbs needs replacing.
Finished painting my interior GT3 delete and gearshift console etc & reinstalled.
Seats and handbrake need a refresh next
Such a worthwhile upgrade. My old shifter wasn�t terrible or worn out, but upgrading to the GT3 is quite satisfying and makes the car feel more modern.
Installed this week on the C4S: H&R Sport springs, Bilstein B8 shocks, 15mm spacers rear, 12mm spacers front.
Since I've put this kit on, my "Thumbs up per day" while driving around town metrics have more than doubled 👍🏽
Your 4s looks really good---^
I adjusted my exhaust tips a bit and cleaned up the car for its trip to the shop tomorrow. (Clunking in front repair/diagnosis, additional lowering F/R, alignment, and Numeric kit + Cables install)
shifter with cables blew my mind. It is so direct, firm, and rewarding. My shifter was so shot this makes it feel like an entirely new car. The only con so far is the increased gear whine/NVH from the cables.
Also got the suspension dialed in a little more and installed a new oem 3rd brake light (forgetting I need one for the wing too). So nice to replace such a weathered piece with something new.
I was able to "rent" some time under an very good alignmnet machine this morn. Got the car square and reset the camber and toe. Will be at njmp on monday with metropca to test it out.
I have not checked since it was set up initially 9/22 but it was the factory gt3 spec. I have some work to do over the winter (new rear rs uprights) so ill corner balance and reset ride height again this off season.
Front should be 115-120mm
Rear should be 128-133mm, measured at the factory spots
No i have been happy with the height. I did swap the rear lca with tarret uniball arms and in the front i am using the rss uniball arms which completely reset the alignmnet. I set it up with my strings but i could but get the car "square".
The inital set up was done on nt-01s. Fronts 245/40/18 and rear 305/35/18. Those posted height numbers r for stock gt3 sizes 235/295. Some simple math would allow u to adjust the numbers.
In my car a different size tire doesnt really affect the alignment or geometry. At least it doesnt change anything that i can feel. Im sure in a race car that u r driving to "win" u would want to compansate but for hpde its minor.
c didy - Total sidewall height will move the static measurement only a little if you don�t wildly deviate from wheel and tire sizes appropriate for the model. When you measure and adjust ride height have the desired tire pressure and alignment specs set. 5 mm of vertical translates, at most, to tiny degree seconds of camber.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
c didy
What size tires do these correspond to? If you run a taller sidewall do you add that to the target measurements to preserve suspension geometry?
Quote:
Originally posted by
de jeeper
The inital set up was done on nt-01s. Fronts 245/40/18 and rear 305/35/18. Those posted height numbers r for stock gt3 sizes 235/295. Some simple math would allow u to adjust the numbers.
In my car a different size tire doesnt really affect the alignment or geometry. At least it doesnt change anything that i can feel. Im sure in a race car that u r driving to "win" u would want to compansate but for hpde its minor.
During the auto to manual swap i found grease coming from a wheel bearing. Meaning the seal failed. So last night was spent removing and pressing bearings in both wheel carriers. Thus morning replaced lower control arms and reassembled the rear suspension.
I've seen some people remark that it looks too involved for home. But Iit really is just tedious, and instead of heating the carrier to 212 degrees, i just put the bearings in the freezer for about 5 hours.
Also, do not buy the generic brand bearings gs from Pelican. They were just
Nk and I ended up.doing the entire bearing press job twice.
During the auto to manual swap i found grease coming from a wheel bearing. Meaning the seal failed. So last night was spent removing and pressing bearings in both wheel carriers. Thus morning replaced lower control arms and reassembled the rear suspension.
I've seen some people remark that it looks too involved for home. But Iit really is just tedious, and instead of heating the carrier to 212 degrees, i just put the bearings in the freezer for about 5 hours.
Also, do not buy the generic brand bearings gs from Pelican. They were just
Junk and I ended up.doing the entire bearing press job twice.
Another busy weekend working on the 996:
Cleaned and re-oiled the K&N filter, bit of a win as I never knew it had one fitted already.
Headlight restoration next, sanded through the cloudiness and re-polished, only problem is one light is clearer than the other. Possibly one bulb has clouded and faded on the inside by the look of it.
Don't know what to do with this, so will either leave as is....or get a replacement at some stage? Possibly the car was sat in direct sunlight for a long time on one side? Maybe I can get in with a q-tip or something?
I also cut the amber parts out internally, so will need new chrome type turn signal bulbs.
I bought the oem bearings from. Pelican, much better quality, 0 run out and no rough spots.
I am using an old HG 12 ton hydraulic press, alo g with a 2 jaw puller. Also a set oh HF bearing presses. You'll need about 5 different sizes and they are all in the HF kit. It's a lot easier than trying to find the correct size socket.
OZ wheels I purchased from a member here arrived yesterday! Going to have them installed tomorrow! I’ll post picture’s asap 😎
Also going to clean up and post a FS for the hollow spokes currently on the car now.
Yeah! When I saw them I thought �typo� saw the same ad on pca mart. Called the seller, he confirmed the size. From what he told me (and build tags that he supplied with the sale) way back when you could get different sizes/colors/offsets,,,,not even a option on oz website anymore.
Re-polished my right headlight, got it substantially better than before so now I finally have a matching set.
Need to buy phantom type amber turn signals now and some new H7 high beams to finish it all off.
I sand with a DA and go through the grades. 400 dry, then wet 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 followed by a cut and finally multiple polishes. On other cars I've done, I just keep them clean and well waxed. I don't really buy into the clear coat thing, I think it just yellows over time anyway and is the reason they all fade and look bad. I have brand new headlights from other cars and motorcycles that didn't come with "protection"....but everyone will do their own thing anyway and have an opinion.
My old unpainted front license plate mount covers looked ugly and one had a piece missing. I ordered new ones from Pelican (996-701-811-00-G2X) and some touch-up spray paint from Automotive Touchup. I used universal bonding primer and clear enamel from Lowe's. I wasn't too worried about it matching perfectly as I knew it would be better than what I had before. Still, I was interested to see how well it would match, especially since this is metal flake paint and I don't have a lot of experience with this.
It came out great! The rest of the bumper could use a re-spray but that's a different story.
Got it aligned to GT3 spec after doing: UAOS track drain, oil change, service, and new heim joints/boots for rear adjustable upper arms and adjustable toe links.
And took a picture of the interior. I don't think I had decent one after adding all the black contrast bits. It used to be all gray.
Adding some trim rings to the gauges would add a lot to the gray/aluminum/black look in my opinion.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22549449283...3ABFBMvKydjYpk
Yesterday @ VIR, put the new motor to a complete thrashing session in 95� heat (105 heat index).
We will be headed to the SCCA Flag Rock hillclimb in Norton, VA this weekend.
--Aaron
You Tube
In my quest for cooler temps I removed the front bumper, cleaned out the ac vents and got my third rad mocked up. New low temp thermostat, water pump, and a bunch more stuff cometh. I also got new injectors ordered and borescoped the cylinders!
Nice! One of my good friends took his family on a road trip from Chicago to Watkins,,,,said he will NEVER do that again, NEVER! 4yo son and 10 yo daughter,,,,🤬
I�m not sure if this has been done before but my body shop has successfully modified OEM Aerokit II skirts to fit my C4S. It�s going in for paint this week and I�ll update with pictures.
It's a "hard no" for me on the gold. There are rare occasions where gold wheels can look absolutely amazing, but it has to be the exact right gold against the exact right color of car. This gold against silver is not it in my opinion. Not trying to be harsh, just very honest because it's not a close call in my mind. Of course, only your opinion matters at the end of the day.
I totally agree, this gold even though it stands out, is a bit too GOLD for the Arctic Silver. I think I might go with a lighter more bronzy gold like the GT4RS wheels....
I'm going to create a marketplace listing. I have two whole cars that I am parting out. One is a 2000 with the vinyl and the other is 1999 with full leather and carbon fiber. The CF is mostly cracked and needs to be refurbished.
Here are some things.
A, B, C pillars in leather or vinyl
Doors in leather or vinyl
Rear quarters in leather or vinyl
Stock, ALU/leather, and ALU/carbon fiber shift *****
Side dash vents in leather and carbon fiber
Defroster vent trim in leather and carbon fiber
Horshoe surround in carbon fiber
Center console in carbon fiber and Guards Red
Seatbelts in black and red
Rear window lower trim panel in vinyl
My almost 6 year old son and I drove down from ATL to Opelika, AL to Dinan HQ to pick up parts for my X5 M. Got caught in a crazy downpour (think fast wipers, hazards on). Lil man had to go and couldn't wait. I pulled over (still in a downpour). From the driver seat, pushed the passenger seat all the way forward and then tilted it forward. There was more than enough room for him to fully stand up and perform an "emergency pit stop".
I couldn't believe that he had enough room to fully stand up. These cars are like an optical illusion. They seem small from the outside, but are big on the inside.
Pro tip for parents: My son gets a stiff neck when holding an iPad in his lap during a road trip. I searched high and low for a tablet holder to fit my X5M (with sport seats) and C4S because they don't have traditional head rests with posts. I found this that works with any sport seat:
Amazon
Amazon
It's like an elastic belly band with velcro to attach it to itself and more velcro so you can fit any sized tablet on it. It doesn't look elegant, but it gets the job done.
Replaced a failed coolant reservoir. When it failed the system was hot and pissed all over the coil packs on bank 1. Nice added level of expense, that was. 3 packs and 6 plugs. Still have a little residual coolant burn off smell. At least the cap on the new tank is black. Only lost 1.5l of liquid. Had to replace the tank on the XC90 a day or two before. Probably sibling jealousy.
I drove mine also with two 911 Cab buddies and wound those gears out neck and neck in harmony. Mini rally. Maxi fun. So great. OEM cup holder (vent style) broke again! Done. Saw an aftermarket cup holder I want and realized I need to move my phone mount to the drivers side to accommodate it. Did that. Then�.noticed I lost my prescription glasses!! 🙄😱😱🤑 Cha Ching!
My 996 C4S radiators looked worse than most...
So I dis-assembled the radiator "sandwich", and washed them out from behind.
And it won't keep out the really small stuff, but this modification will keep out the big stuff
The genuine Porsche tank doesn't come with a cap. You have to purchase it separately, and it is blue. A couple of years ago I ordered a Genuine Porsche tank from Autohauz AZ and paid the ridiculous Porsche MK-I price (over $600) . However, they sent me an aftermarket tank that came with a black cap. That was my first indication that I had been scammed. Additionally there were no Porsche markings on any of the packaging. Previously I had used an OEM tank and that lasted a little more than a year before it failed. This is one area where you don't want to skimp because the job is a PITA to do.
Any electrical issues going from regular bulb type tail lights to the LED replacement? Mine are both cracked and I don't really want to pay $1,500 for a pair from Pelican or Porsche. Thanks!
I visited my 996 in the shop. Doing many of the "while we're in there' things like a lovely new LN IMS Bearing, RMS, Clutch, Plugs, Coils (yes we're switching to the 997 Coils), etc.
Then went home and unpacked my sweet new (to me) set of silver 18" MY02 OEM BBS Rims that I got from Oleg here on the board. I know everyone wants the hollow turbo twists, but I like the BBS style more and I strongly suspect my driving skills are never going to be at the point where the difference in unsprung weight between those two 18" styles is really going to matter. Now I just need to wear out the tires on my 17" Rims so I have an excuse to put the 18s on! I'm definitely keeping the 17s around though - they're the nice, light, OEM 10-spokes.
996 on the lift. If only I could make my plate look like that for photo radar!
Transmission, Old Coils, etc
IMS Replacement Underway
Still got some miles in the clutch but we're replacing it while we're in there. Hoping to push the next transmission pull out as long as possible!
New (to me) OEM BBS Rims. Ok, that's just one of them but they're all that pretty.
I've always been a big fan of the myo2 five spoke rims. Simple, elegant, lightweight. I have them on my other car while my hollow spokes, although classic and perfectly usable, are collecting dust. By the way, the weight difference is not as much as you might think in comparison to hollow spokes.
What manufacturer produced the cats? It appears that the bottom pipes are slightly shorter than required to meet the muffler pipe. Also, how difficult was it to remove the header to cat flange hardware? Looks nice though!
I actually don't know the cat manufacturer. doesn't seem to be any documentation in what I've received. I just checked the "200 cell cats" option when ordering.
yeah, there's about 1 mm on the driver side and 3 mm on the pass side between the bottom pipe and the muffler pipe. but there's some play in the bolt holes holding the mufflers to the car. so i'll adjust as necessary when the sleeve clamps go on.
I had to cut every single bolt and nut off the original system... so... wasn't too bad after I realized no amount of penetrating fluid and wrench-finesse would get them off.
for the header-to-cat connection specifically, I took a reciprocating saw to the nut side (header side)... the cat side then just pulled away.
My wife asked for a bit of extra clearance in the garage yesterday morning (had on a white dress), so I moved the car back on the lift by 6� as it was in the down position. All good. Only late that afternoon I forgot I have done this as it was not noticeable. Normally to get a car in below, the top has to be down as the car clears about an inch from the raised garage door. I have marks on the lift to not go up too far. Yesterday I put the car up and as the windows were now just under the raised garage door (6� further back) they engaged it and both exploded in deafening �foom�, cloud of glass particles. New windscreen with it. Glass everywhere� and I mean everywhere. That�s what I did to my 996 today.
Count your blessings Boss, it could have damaged the A pillar or the top (if it had been left up). That would have been expensive to repair. But relative to 90% of the parts on the car, side glass and the wind deflector are cheap to replace.
Just count it as a great memory that can be shared over and over at family gatherings.
Temporary rule in your garage... No bare feet until all those glass bits are vacuumed up. And just be ready to vacuum all the broken glass inside the door. If you don't get it all, it will drive your ears nuts. Like pebbles bouncing around in a tin can.
Agree on all counts. Having it detailed and seats pulled too. Been shopvac-ing the floor and the interior. Garage door had its own glass avalanche when we put it down. Spending the day swiffering and sweeping. 10-4 on bare feet and small pieces as I�m on blood thinners and can�t afford to get badly cut. Thanks for the bright sided advice. It could have been worse. Looking like 2500 including new regulators.
As I was swapping the 986 to the 996’s spot for access to the lift (for an AOS replacement now underway), I discovered that the passenger side microswitch for the window drop has failed on the 996. Ordered a new switch with the intake boots and other bits needed to finish the 986 AOS. Always some new project on deck.
This was after replacing the headlight switch on the 986 and both MAP sensors for the 958 Turbo. Busy day.
Thrashed the 996 C4 up a mountain about 7 times. The new motor we built did great!
I went about 4 seconds faster today but the memory card was corrupted (!)
Don't lift!
You Tube
--Aaron
The car is in shock as it has no idea why that happened. I set up a beach chair in the garage nd a maintaining a bedside vigil until it can get medical attention tomorrow.
I've lived with the horn badge missing two stripes for years, and decided to get the windowless car a "get well gift" to lift its spirits. Installed a "new to me" Airbag with a gleaming fresh badge in pretty much mint condition.
Installed the OEM 996 Turbo lower lip spoiler on my C4S. Garage is a mess. I'll post a pic later.
The part went on very easily with no need to heat it up to stretch it into position like with the ebay units. And it looks better, too.
Pro tip: When ordering online, the shipping is like $100 because it's an oversized box. Order from the dealer and it will ship to the dealership for free. Your total price will undoubtedly be cheaper.
For example, this one is $375 + $75 shipping. Pelican parts wanted $100 shipping.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKU996TTSPL.html
While I was installing, I noticed a few leaves and rocks in the ducts to the radiators. I've seen people remove their bumper covers to clean those out. I just used a grabber tool and had it cleaned out in a couple of minutes. A LOT less effort than removing the entire bumper cover. Those grabbers are less than $10 on amazon or at local hardware stores.
The problem is that over time dirt and debris gets lodged between the condenser and radiator. The only way to effectively clean is to remove the bumper skin and air ducts, then separate the two and vacuum and/or pressure wash.
For regular cleanings, I just use a long small hose with my Shop Vac and it does the job to remove all leaves, dirts, and small rocks.
Well I earned beer. I got 996.2 injectors in my 996.1, changed to a low temp thermostat, new metal impeller water pump, new fuel filter, added a center rad, upgraded the fan resistors, borescoped the cylinders, and added new spark plug tubes. All cooling mods to help with the SC heat.
@Boss_Angeles
There are a few threads on here mentioning about the better spray pattern and higher CFM. I am skeptical at best. Taking the car for a couple of test drives it does seem a tiny bit better but that could be down to poor flow from the original injectors and the old fuel filter. I mainly did the mod due to availability and cost in order to prevent cylinder washing to prevent bore score in the future. That and i cannot find any evidence in the car's history of this ever being done. The removed injectors were very dirty above the spray nozzle but I have not tested them for pattern or flow. Most of what I did were aimed at making the car last longer (115k) and reducing risk. Next it will be the upper chain guides although I will wait 6 months before started that beast.
Congrats on the work. Hope the borescope showed that the bores were in great shape.
You may want to consider replacing the new metal impeller water pump back to a new oem plastic blade water pump and just get on a program to replace the pump every 5 years.
While the metal blade water pump may seem like a good idea and we have all thought about it, you run the risk of the bearing going (just like the oem pump) and the metal blades carving out chunks of metal within your engine which is not repairable.
Oh really? I think I need a gin then! If this one can last me 2 years I will do the plastic impeller but I should be ok for a while (I hope). I'm not too enthused to have to get back under the car so soon. Thanks for the heads up.
I hear you. For sure, its a PITA. Just put a new water pump in 2 months ago. It's my 4th one in 22 years. But the M96 is a pretty durable engine if you run good oil, change it a few times a year, upgrade to the right parts to solve for controllable issues, and keep the key parts fresh. It's worth it.
I am on my third oil change since Jan
That was mostly to do with dropping the pan to remove the 996 oil returns for 997 ones. I will start looking into the deeper oil pan and adding a tune too. I see you have Revo, I am a big fan of theirs. I was think about the APR tune for the 3.4. We will see.
Next on the list is: Tune, X51 Baffle, Deep Sump, Coilovers, headers, and possibly a single mass flywheel.
No single mass flywheel! Been known to break the crankshaft. The dual mass flywheel dampens the crankshaft vibration harmonics. A single mass flywheel, or lightweight flywheel, is not an upgrade. Just like people who think a metal impeller water pump is better, but it is not. It will bore a hole in the block that is unrepairable, making the block a fancy paperweight, or boat anchor.
DBJoe's advice is good. I wanted to put smfw on my 996 about 15 years ago and my indy said NO for the reasons outlined by DBJoe.
Back in the day, REVO was one of the first 996 software upgrades. Today their are plenty of them. They pretty much dropped out of the US market after their troubles with buying Stassis Engineering (Audi aftermarket stuff). It's been bullet proof software.
In the next few years i am going to refresh my exhaust system and software to all the new next gen FVD stuff. Currently i run FVD 200 cell cats and mufflers w/oem headers. But will move to FVD M&M headers, 200 cell Cats and sport mufflers with FVD software to tie it all together.
If you have the interest, start a thread on your car. We all love this stuff.
Ordered a set of sway bars while I wait for the shop to finish up with the work I'm having them do. I plan to drive the car stock for a while, then start making incremental changes until I find where I'm happiest with the feel and handling. That being said, jumping from a 23.1mm stock front to a solid 26mm may be excessive. We'll see once I get to that point.
Filter and new sump plug washer finally arrived so did an oil change.
In NZ we don't have many options for decent oils at decent prices, so after looking hard at what's available and the special requirements of our motors I decided on Penrite HPR5 5w40.
It has high zinc content and other protection additives and I coupled this with some additional Mos2 to up the moly content to ward off any bore scoring etc.
Cut apart filter and things looked good!
Finished doing paint correction on my buddy�s car and I�ll be installing the Hartech x Slakker sump next week. I finally opened up the oil filter from the previous oil change pre race event and it was clean, sent the oil sample to Lake.
If you have before and after fuel trim numbers you may see improvements with the new injectors. My trim numbers decreased and smoking starts are much fewer. Any fuel pooling in a horizontal cylinder arrangement is bad. Ethanol doesn’t help any engine component. It was worth the scraped knuckles and money in the swear jar for a bit more peace of mind.
@hatchetf15
I'm day three in now and there is definitely an improvement without a doubt. I should have taken a picture of my hands. I was torn up getting them in and I have a deep tool chest to choose from! Also, the cooling mods are giving me a true 180 degree running temp in the middle of a Charleston summer. She's running better than ever.
Wash, clay bar & wax� About 3 hrs and a little �elbow grease�! Another wash & wax and it should be good for the rest of the season�
Looks pretty odd for 25 yr old paint!
Just got back from a brief drive, which took place immediately after I did the brakes.
I replaced the front and rear pads with Endless MX72, the front and rear rotors by Ate (OEM style cross-drilled), and a 997 GT3 brake master cylinder by TRW. I also flushed and replaced the brake fluid with Endless RF-650.
My immediate impression, after the pads started getting bedded was �H O L Y S H I T !�
This combination is incredible. The stopping ability is much, much better than the Textar pads I replaced. I�m amazed at the transformation that has taken place. My confidence with the brakes has increased dramatically. In fact, I now need to be extra-conscious of the cars behind me when I brake, or else they�ll think I�m purposely brake-checking them!
I�m really glad I got this done, but I couldn�t have done it without some research on Rennlist. So if you�ve ever shared a suggestion on Rennlist to install one of those aforementioned parts, then thank you!
I didn�t have to do any mods on my 2000 non-PSM. It was a straightforward replacement.
Depending on your specific model, you may or may not have to do some mods.
Pulled a couple of cars out of garage so I could detail the two Pastel Yellow 1999 996s. I read PCA plans to do a �Launch Colors� article on the 993, 996, and Cayman R, the 996 launch color was Pastel Yellow Yellow cars are not everyone�s favorites but as for me I agree with Bart Simpson Yellow is Cool. 😀
Rich
Rich
So jealous.
I used to have an W211 E55 AMG in an uncommon color (Cubanite Silver). As luck would have it, a contemporary W220 S55
same era, same engine, same AMG-ness, same color
was parked outside of a local dentist's office with a for sale sign in it. I passed by it daily during school pickup/drop off. Meticulously maintained. Records folder looked like a small town yellow pages. My wife thought I was an an idiot for wanting a second project car just because it was same color.
I'm like, "But, babe...you don't understand..."
Its the traction control....post a pic of the frunk option sticker as it will be listed if u have it. Not sure in the option code number but u can search 4 it.
If you have PSM there is a switch on the dash to disable it labeled "PSM". No switch, no PSM.
PSM does not play nice with the 997 Turbo/GT master cylinder.
After 20/30 hours to modify OEM Aero II skirts while utilizing all 32 body clips with custom brackets and no drilling, my body shop were able to modify them to my c4s. I've never seen it done before and they look absolutely amazing. I had the c4s Aero rear Spoiler added, bumperettes painted, a new oem front lip painted (i prefer that over the aero front) and of course the skirts installed.
I ordered a crap ton of parts from FCP, Suncoast, and LN. CSF radiator kit, water pump kit, coils and plugs, engine mounts, complete AOS system, oil pressure sender, variocam wear pads, #4&5 timimg chains,tensioner amd pulley kit, bosch injectors, fuel filter, maintenance items, rear main and IMS (as soon as I figure out which one), door courtesy lamps, led bulb kit, and Goodridge brake lines. Whew.!
Before you install the "complete AOS system" - you need to look into the UAOS. Lots of threads here in this forum about it. Factory Porsche AOS units have been a crap shoot, some good, some bad, some long lived, some extremely short.
-Tom
Looks like a repair I'll need to do this weekend as well! I was wondering, do you remember how you wired it? I heard that the green wire goes to one side, and the white/green+white wires go to the other side, can you confirm?
Thanks!
I figured out my new (to me) C2 has had a very boring life up to now...
Less than 10 seconds at redline in the past 22 years, and that was within the first 24 hours of runtime! At least there haven't been any overrevs.
Nothing I'm overly proud of. You'll notice the glob of JB weld on the oil filler tube. It will be followed with electrical tape this afternoon once it's cured.
Where's a good source for 996 parts in Canada? Shipping fees from pelican are murder, and germanparts.ca doesn't have very much as far as random parts. Is it pretty much dealership markups, or shipping fees out the wazoo? (I use rockauto for some parts but the oil filler tube isn't available on rockauto or germanparts.ca)
FCP Euro is on the east coast (Connecticut) and west coast (California).
You might find your dealer has decent prices, and usually shipping to the dealer doesn�t cost.
if you need small odds and ends let me know I have a bunch of 996 parts available.
I would have to look through my bins but i had a new fill tube in my car when the motlr when boom. Lmk if u want me to lool for it as u coild ship it through fedex or ups to Can.
I signed up for another hill climb for the end of this month (SCCA Dragon hillclimb). Looks like there's another 2001 C4 signed up as well, can't wait to have some fun together.
Ordered more tires- went with RE71-RS's this time. Running Cayman wheels on my NB, 18x8.5 ET52 255/35/18 and 18x10 ET40 (!!) 285/30/18
Very Excited.
--Aaron
That would be great, spoke with the dealership and they said $154 CAD plus tax and a 2-3 week wait.
(JB weld held together, just for the accordion section just below it to crack, so she's currently wrapped in half a roll of electrical tape. Structural integrity and all that. Runs fine for now)
I might be full of it, but I do believe these cars (at least 993s) were road tested once by factory drivers after being manufactured. That might explain the redlines!
I�ve been wrong about plenty of things, but I�m pretty sure that this info reads as the most recently recorded range 1 over revs occurred 23.2 operating hours ago.
One thing I do know is that the �operating hours counter� maxes out at 6553.4h
Whoops! You're right on this one, per the Durametric site's "Buyers Guide to Used Porsches" at
http://www.durametric.com/usedporschebuyersguide.aspx
that's the number of operating hours when it last happened. (Applicable screenshot below.) Running the numbers I've put almost exactly 18 hours on the engine since I bought it so this would have been shortly before then. Guess someone got spirited on a test drive or they let a salesman take the car for the day. Wish they'd have changed the oil and coolant before running it up like that. All of the fluids were old when I got the car.
Got an oil change at the dealership today. First under my ownership (had records of previous oil change and even talked to the shop that performed it). No debris in the filter. Learned that one the previous owners installed the LN Engineering spin on oil filter adapter kit (thanks!).
Got the OEM airbag deactivation bar and buckle (that I installed over the weekend) coded while there at no extra charge (thanks Hennessy Porsche!!). My lil' man absolutely loved sitting up front with me for the first time. His reaction made the mod totally worth it. Also, it's much easier to keep up with what he's doing and help him with snacks, water, iPad while we are on the move. If you have kids in car seats, I highly recommend this mod.
Also picked up this little umbrella. I bet a lot of y'all didn't know that that slot on the passenger side is an umbrella holder 😄. I ordered one of these leather umbrella pouches that are replicas of the OEM pouch:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275657350988
Pic of the Porsche car seat using the airbag deactivation bar.
Note: This modern generation of the Porsche child seats do not come with the buckle that is required for the deactivation bar (see red strap going under the seat). That buckle came from an older Porsche child seat.
It's easy to uninstall. Just unclip the buckle at the front of the seat (which re-activates the air bag) and remove the child seat and it's ready for adult occupants.
Oil change (honestly just checking for shiny metal, oil was fine) and just trying to get an idea of when a transmission mount bushing is toast. I'm getting a thunk on acceleration, and a thunk when letting off accelerating, also a rattling noise that only happened in 4th 5th and 6th gear when decelerating (no idea what it's from? Throwout bearing? RMS? I have a slow, slow oil leak coming between the transmission and engine.
Oil looks to be coming from the circled area, basically where engine/transmission meet.
Clutch in it goes away, any input on the gas it seems to go away.
Trans bushings are kinda smushed at the top, enough to cause the thunk?
Mount definitely looks toast with the broken bit, i put a stock mount in and then a push in powerflex bush that fills the holes. I went from a solid mount with all the vibes and harshness to smooth and quiet and I don't notice any additional transmission movement.
Actually, it's a very logical place to put it.
It's near:
- The open sunroof.
- The malfunctioning switch.
- The hole where you'll plug it in and turn to close the sunroof.
Just like people hide a spare key to the back door under a rock...near the back door.
Accessing it there would be a lot faster than leaving the cabin, going into the frunk, lifting the floor, unrolling the tool kit, pulling the tool, then returning to the cabin, removing the panel, then using the tool.
This way, you remove the panel, see the tool, use the tool.
The Thunk that you hear and feel is from the transmission mount having given it up. I had the same Thunk and replaced the trans mount. Not just the bushings, the entire mount. I figured that the labor cost to press the bushings out and in equalled the price ($300) of the new mount. No more Thunk.
A week after my engine was repaired I picked up a 1/2 hole in my rear tire.
What did I do to my 996 today? Four new Michelin tires today.
And I need to post a pic to prove it happened right?
I also joined the PCA today.
Noticed the chip in rim after taking the pic.🥺
I am SO excited to see that Suncoast just posted a
new 996 "Sport Style" Oil filler and Coolant caps.
They will match the Sport Gas cap. I will want to drive with the engine compartment open from now on.
Ordered them NOW.
Been hoping for this for a looooong time.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/sku9x7caps.html
It's wild how totally different these car look when they shouldn't be
that
dissimilar. Narrow nose vs blocky nose. Thin body vs stocky body. Most of which is attributed to the angle of the photo and the wide angle lens that was employed.
Drained transmission oil. But more importantly drained oil and dropped sump plate. Been having odd oil pressure issues so wanted to check it. All looks good. Found some small brownish pieces of plastic bits, don't think IMS related, but trying to find some refernces to similar bits by searching threads.
Process was a bit of a messy pita, and just crossing fingers my loxtite application was sufficient.
Cracking the plate.....
Changed Transmission and Front Diff fluid, added Rennline spacers, cleaned fender liners, and replaced some liner hardware. Recently had brake lines and bleeder screws swapped out as well.
No. I just changed the water pump a month ago and it was in perfect condition (which was surprising as it was probably the original from 100k miles ago).
Yeh, that's what I'm thinking. I'm hoping since so few, and likely pan was never dropped before, or if it was, it was a long long time ago, that I don't have anything major to worry about (this was all done to try and figure out a oil pressure issue in a different thread). The only weird thing I found was that small brass looking little disc with a hole in the center.
Some of the support struts on my spoiler are cracked (it was like that before I bought the car) so I pulled it off of the car today and dropped a spare in that I picked up from a local wrecking yard or whatever they're called nowadays. It came off of a silver Carrera and the silver just didn't look right on the back of my white car so I hit the spoiler with a quick coat of black plasti-dip before mounting it up. It looks decent enough for the time being. Now to get my regular spoiler to the body shop...
Them's the breaks!
Not too shabby looking for a wrecking yard spoiler covered in plasti-dip!
This would be a better glamour shot if my Carrera wasn't crammed in the garage between the Taos and the ladders, but at least it's in a garage! My poor Flex is out there cooking in Arizona Sun.
Sorry Flex...
Received my Covercraft UVS100 folding sun shade. I was informed on good authority that this is the same manufacturer that made the OEM sun shades for these cars.
Wow. These are really nice. Thick, firm, insulated board. Nicer than any sun shade I've ever used. Easy to install. Not a floppy mess like others. Folds away neatly for storage in the car for easy reach. The fit is custom to these cars. Not the one-size-fits-most like you get from those at the auto parts store. $100USD well-spent, especially living in the Southeastern US. The car is stored in a garage, but it bakes in parking lots when out and about.
I'm gonna order some for the other cars at the house.
https://www.covercraft.com/product/u...m-sunscreen/UV
Not today, but over the last week or so. Bought some OZ wheels from a PCA member. Had the tires swapped from the hollow spokes (thought they were 18x8 front but turns out they’re 7.5”) on the 15mm spacers. Also swapped the grey steering wheel with a black one I bought from a member here. I’m less than 6 months out from retirement, so I won’t have to find time or decide if I’m going to wash the car or drive it! 😎
Removed the cd holder,put in a cubby. Still have to decide whether or not to upgrade the sound system.
Dirty….drove a little over 100 miles this weekend.
Drove it to a PCA event and on the freeway lost gears 1,3,5. Panicked and attempted to limp home on 2,4,6 but ended up at a stop light and had all gears again. Attended the event, wife, infant and I are all good but what the heck happened!?
Also this happened!!
Your shifter cables at the transmission have popped out of the bracket on the transmission. Most people put the cable(s) back in the bracket and zip tie them to hold them in place. Congrats on the mileage.
Just got my Speeddiagnostix oil results back with a clean bill of health. I plan on sending my XP6 oil to Lake after my event. The Hartech x Slakker sump goes in the car this week.
I painted my OZ's Grabber Orange and installed RE71RS's.
I had the WORST time getting the 285/30 rear and 255/35 front tires to seat on the bead- I do not recommend going that wide at least with these super stiff sidewall tires.
I swear it's always my car that takes the most time and causes the most problems!
--Aaron
Today I tried to improve my 996, but ended up making it much worse.
During my attempt at installing the Litronics high beam controller, I decided to tape up the disintegrating insulation in my headlamp. Every movement of the wiring harness kept exposing more bare wire, and I gave up because I realized I was making things worse.
I was running out of daylight, so I placed the headlights back in my car. I didn�t finish installing the Litronics high beam kit. I tested the turn signals to find out they stopped working after a brief flash. Weirdly enough, the hazards work perfectly.
I locked the car with my key fob, and my car responded with a flash of the turn signals. On my second press, I realized my key fob is no longer able to unlock (or lock) the car.
My power windows don�t work at all anymore, too.
At least my car starts, and I�m relieved to know that the headlights, taillights and brake lights are still functioning.
I need to stare at some wiring diagrams tomorrow and find out the extent of the damage. I hope I didn�t fry a module or two.
What a disappointing day�
These are my "track use" wheels so I figured why not go all out.
These were actually a set of 987 Cayman wheels I had bought off a customer.
The fronts are 8.5x18 ET 53 and the rears are 10x18 ET40... 255/35/18 front and 285/30/18 RE71RS. I did have to roll my rear fenders as I had a very minor rub. I had run the same size CRS V2 with no rubbing issues prior to rolling the rear fenders.
--Aaron
It took a little longer than that.
I do understand how it could be done much faster the second or twentieth time.
Since it was my first, I was more concerned with doing it right and not breaking anything.
I'm having both of mine replaced as the windows "blew up" (scroll back), but heard that the newer versions are updated and more reliable. It's tougher to calibrate when you have to replace the window and have nothing to mark from.
Got these OEM caps from Suncoast today for the Oil filler and Coolant tank. Nice to see the factory investing in new parts for 996 and 997 as apparently they are now considered "classics". Car is still being detailed so I'm dying to see what they will look like. Well made just like the matching gas cap, recommend.
Finally got my black alcantara steering wheel cover I paid way too much for sewn on and swapped back into the car. The alcantara feels great in the hand, but is minimally acceptable as far as fit and looks go. Had a horrible experience with DIYsteeringwheel.com where I bought the cover from. I would recommend that everyone avoid this place like the plague if you�re wanting doing something similar at home. They claim to be out of Australia but it�s just another sham internet outfit drop shipping crap from China. Somehow the quality of the alcantara material wasn�t too bad. I�m fairly skilled with my hands and was a custom leather craftsman for several years, so sewing up a wheel cover should have been no big deal.
Two weeks after I placed my order for basic black with black stitch cover I received something that was clearly not from the correct wheel pattern that was short on material around the three spokes and grip bulges at 10&2. No way it could be modified to fit. DIYsteeringwheel.com responded the next day to say they would be sending out a correct replacement and to put blame on the *pattern-maker* for the issue and swore this would not happen again. Ok, sounds goods right� Two more weeks later, got the second cover that was a little closer to correct. Except now it was too big around the wheel rim by about 2mm to 4mm depending on the location, and the material around the spokes was of by a few degrees high on the side spokes that would have created a dead space pocket above the spoke of I�d tried to sew it up.
Needless to say my next 5 emails to DIYsteeringwheel.com that transitioned from being professional but confused about what the source of the problem was�to please refund my money and provide a return address�to straight pi***d the f**k off about their shady bait-n-switch made in china business shenanigans went unanswered.
Was able to get most of the problem areas trimmed up and fitting better but the stitching isn�t consistent now and looks completely amateur.
Did an alignment, old school string way.
A couple of 4x2 timbers, some alum. tubes and strings.
Front right wheel was at -1.3, opposite was at -1.8!
Right Rear was 1.3 instead of 1.9
Adjusted rear toe as well, front was good.
Fronts now -1.8 (maxed with slotted holes), Rears -1.9
Ok I know not what the post was about but couldn't help noticing the speedo, do you really have 242,300 miles on it? That's amazing. I imagine lots of work done to get there?
Yep! Lots of oil changes! I can only claim the past 137K miles. Mainly just the normal routine maintenance as the mileage goes on a 2003 C4S. Original motor, IMS bearing, and transmission. Still runs and drives fantastic! Recently dropped the good front diff for a 2WD conversion because I didn�t want to re-boot both front axles again. Not sure that I care for the different feel of the car now, but it�s only been about 500 miles.
would be awesome to hear more about this? Is it as simple as making a perfect rectangle and the measuring the distance from string to parts of the wheel? This shows a little complexity,
You Tube
I finished my gauge swap and reinstalled everything. I ordered these as a custom set from Gaugefaces.com, as others here have. Excellent product, fair pricing, and spectacular customer service. I�m very happy with how everything came out.
yeah it's not that hard, he's doing a lot of conversions in that video to get degrees etc. but if you know the correct dims already (I work in mm, and found some good settings to follow) then it's quite simple really. I ended up lifting and adjusting then checking multiple times to get it as close as I could. watch some YouTube and it becomes clear.
Stuck a bike on the 996 and went riding on some nice gravel roads around Middleburg, VA, outside of DC. I had a funny thing happen...Middleburg is a very affluent area with a bunch of horse money, wineries, breweries, good roads and has even hosted Mille Miglia. This means that it's not uncommon to see Ferraris, McLarens, Lambos, GT cars and other super cars. As I was pulling away, I had a young kid, about 16, run over to me with big eyes and a smile and his phone out to take shots of my car. First thing out of his mouth was "the 996 is so underrated! I love them so much!" I let him hop in the driver's seat and chatted for a quick minute. Very cool interaction and maybe there is hope for our youth after all! Looked like a future 996 owner in the making
When I was a kid, my friends and I would play, "That's my car!" and race to claim every cool car that we'd see passing by.
You are now the owner of a cool car.
Getting a kid to say that your car is cool is worth 100 thumbs-up from middled aged dudes at stoplights.
Absolutely! I was more so impressed with the fact that there are young kids that have a growing interest and appreciation for cars that are older than they are. It's something they might not have been to exposed much. Turn on YouTube and most people are posting stories of collecting their new GT3RS or Huracan - that's their point of reference these days. Hopefully these kids will also become interested in how the whole damn thing works and look to be an apprentice at a shop. Those mechanics are a dying breed and it's good money!
Clearly that kid isn�t reading enough internet.
I had a similar thing happen at a PCA event, it was an outdoors get together with live band and a casual �people�s choice� concours (no formal judging). A mom and her kids went crazy over my 996, the kids said they were going to vote for it when there were probably 150 other Porsches. Many others came up and asked about the car, they talked about more as classic/vintage-ish car. We go to a lot of PCA events and have never heard a negative word about 996.
Finally adding the Hartech x Slakker racing sump. Didn�t get the install instructions sooo I figured it was a plug n play install and noticed a clearance issue. Called Brandon and he told me exactly what needed to be done. Customer support is superb.
All that�s left is to trim the oil return tubes(I have the old style) and reinstall the pan.
So if you don�t trim, you�ll make contact here.
I have the older type of oil drain tubes.
The newer ones look like this:
I�m not exactly sure if the trimming process is specific to .1 or .2 cars but the only thing I know is different is the drain tubes as the newer version is probably a 997 M96 upgrade.
My leather umbrella holster arrived from the UK.
Ordered from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275657350988
Delivery took 2 weeks. High quality leather and great craftsmanship. I highly recommend.
(I have no affiliation)
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_4243_d71f354aac7f94103aecfb8d8bda852398e137e0.jpeg
I will eventually but the car is really just that clean. It�s a Texas and S FL car so it�s never been exposed to road salt. I do need to take care of an oil leak on the passenger side though.
Yeah I'm from Texas as well and my 991.1 C2S's underside is clean enough you can eat off it (OCD at it's finest)...I get underneath and wipe it off a lot. It drives me absolutely nuts that my 996 C4 has 100k worth of grim on the underside (bought it used) so I'm slowly using WD40 and a lot of elbow grease to clean the underside. I will get it clean if it kills me LOL
looking good. I have a 997 short shift in mine right now, do you think the numeric will make that much difference? I�ve been drooling over it for quite some time. Love being able to change the setting. Thoughts?
There's another thread here about painting door sill plates - I suspect the same technique would work on any of the 996 plastic areas, but I haven't tried it yet. It's on my to-do list for when my garage temps drop from "hellfire" to "merely incendiary".
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...uff-plate.html
I originally replaced my shifter with a new 997 one with the Function First Shift-Right Solution installed. It was definitely an upgrade from the worn out original.
But when Numeric had a sale I decided to give it a try. �Bolt-action� is clich� but it is the best way to describe the Numeric. It really is that good. So yes, it does make a noticeable difference. I don�t know if it�s for everyone though.
And after a test drive I moved it back to the highest position.
What color interior? Mine has Savannah Beige and Color Bond LVP #1131 is pretty spot on for a can of spray paint. I'd like to think they have other factory interior colors. Sand, prep, paint..., about as straight forward as the process can be.
Color Bond has factory interior colors for all types of makes / models, but generally just traditional interior colors. 996 Metropol or Nephrite for instance don't appear to be available so not as easily DIY'able.
https://www.colorbondpaint.com/produ...-savanah-beige
Drove it 140mi this morning to hang out with dad for his birthday. Look at that fuel economy! More power and economy from 4.1L - sign me up! This was cruising in the mid 70s with both windows open.
@Billup
How long ago did you do this, and how does it seem to be holding up? Mine isn't bad enough to warrant redoing, but it's on my "down the road someday" list.
I ran the SCCA "Chasing the Dragon Hillclimb" today. The car ran great and really shined in the rain. Hopefully tomorrow will be another good day of competition. h
After the course closed I went and drove the tail of the dragon which was fun since it was empty because of the rain. Despite living in NC I've never been, so now I have the t-shirt!
Then I went on hwy28 over to the Fontana Dam.
Really enjoying the 996 C4!
--Aaron
Probably back in 2018 if memory serves correctly, and still looks today as it does in those pictures. However, I'm pretty finicky with any vehicle interior / exterior maintenance so nothing ever sees much wear and tear.
I do like to think that the LVP bonded very well to the plastic though and seems like it'd handle wear better than the original paint which seems to scratch or blemish pretty easily.
I replaced the battery and gave my dad the car for a few weeks while I move into my new house.
I have never actually heard the PSE from standing outside of the car before, but man... it sounds great as the car pulls away.
I spent the weekend having some top-down fun driving twisties in the Catskill Mountains. Came out of the house to find bear tracks next to my car.
About an hour later I saw the owner of those prints in the yard - mama bear and three cubs. I tried to take a picture but they took off when I opened the door.
She just fits... No room for error.
I bought the quickjacks last year, finally assembled and used them. I haven't been able to drive it, there's intermittent limp mode gremlins. That's another post. I'm debating going public with the absolute failure of a certain PSC to help me, but I'm too exhausted and angry to think about how to write such a thing. Just know that Porsche Service centers aren't all the same quality. Some modern techs, especially at the dealer, are basically part swappers, with no interest in the difficult stuff. Choose carefully.
Anyway, I might as well work on it. Tomorrow, oil change, driven DT1. I'll send my old oil for analysis as I always do.
Then I'll start reading the electrical troubleshooting book I bought, and learn how to use a multimeter with DC circuits.
I don't know though, I'm kind of disenchanted with the ownership experience. It's so great to drive, but on top of the COVID high 24k I paid for my 100k mile car, and roughly 25k invested, she's still not reliable. It was fine when I was working, but I was laid off last year, at 59, 2 years away from a comfortable early retirement, after 13 years of 4 star aprs. So the money is drying up.
I'm kind of over pouring money into her. I'm getting my giant old House painted and that's a huge bill these days. Has to be done.
With an intermittent electrical gremlin I can't sell, and it's not like anyone is going to pay anywhere near what is invested. I should share my spreadsheet here, it would terrify potential buyers and some owners. Everything is new, except the variocam timing pads, that will be expensive. It's not something I'm able to do in my little garage with my little skills.
I need to ponder, and perhaps make the hard choices. But at least I can get underneath safely now and do the things. When I'm working and learning car stuff I'm happy, so we'll see.
damage98MO - keep your head up pal! I too sometimes struggle knowing these cars are sometimes money pits but it's a first world problem and not the end all be all....you know! You were able to sleep in a warm bed and eat good food....problems could be worse. How do you like those Quickjacks? I've been thinking about getting a pair but not sure they go up high enough for me to fit comfortably under neath the car. I'm not a big person but are they high enough to change the transmission fluid without too much hassle? Do you feel safe being underneath them? They look flimsy in the ad's Hang in there!
It's terrible that companies are so okay with letting go of older employees who are good performers. I was laid off at age 58 after 20 years with a company. I built a whole department from scratch and once it was complete I was dumped. I was out of work for a little more than a year before getting another job (at a much lower salary). Eventually I got my salary almost back to what it was, and then was I laid off again at age 67. Keep plugging away and hopefully you'll find a good job. Also look into contract or freelance work depending on your skill set. There are some great technical people on this site. Post the details of your problem and someone may be able to help you. Also, an independent Porsche specialist will be more interested and have more experience with older cars. The dealers shops are mostly interested in warranty work.
If you can get a car up on quickjacks, you can do the variocam pad job. It�s not hard, just requires time, patience, a couple tools and about $100 in parts. The QJ solves the biggest challenge - dropping the engine.
Its frustrating, but it sounds like you have time and there are people here who are willing to help!
Hang in there, at the very least you can get it to a point where its dialed in for the next owner and you can walk away with one less headache and a heavier pocket... or hopefully it will rekindle the passion ... Hoping for the latter
@Viper1000
@996-CAB
@wyovino
@sublm8
@2mAn
Thanks for the words of encouragement and the offers of help. This is the best forum I've used for anything. I've had tons of help and guides from folks here in the last 2 years. I think I already started a thread re the electrical issue so I'll try and resurrect that one, or make new, I don't want to hijack this thread. I may have already. It's not intentional. I'll @ you there if it's not a bother? I'm slammed today with household chores and things, so I'll wait till tonight or tomorrow when I have energy and a few minutes. Thanks again! 🙏
@Viper1000
they seem sturdy. I'll still put some boards under the wheels when I go underneath. The instructions say to make sure the car is also on jackstands after lifting, but there's nowhere to put them, the lifting points are occupied but the lift. But I'll use the tires, I don't think I need to take them off. I might to ceramic coat them. They're new, so I need to get that done. Also will check pads and rotors. I have all the parts and tools to do my own brake job. It will be my first brake change, when it's needed. Gulp.
Was running hot yesterday... so decided to test the fans, the right pass one came on but the left did not. swapping relays didnt help and fuses were good...
took off the bumper and cleaned them, was pretty dirty, ordered a new fan
Waiting on renn27 for the bits for a 2.7t swap. I washed her today. The first time in years. That's an '82 Targa to the right needing a complete restortation.
I only bought the car a couple months ago so I hadn't done much other than drive it and change the oil and the relief valve on the oil pump.
it'll probably run 10 degrees cooler just from that alone, there was a lot in there.
ive notice a drop in oil pressure as the temp gets past the zero on 180
it'd be nice if it had oil temp like my cayenne does
Long time no post, this is a cool pic. New headers to go with the X-pipe. Both available at LN. Also installed the UIDS some months ago.
Alot of other normal maintenance has been done. The only other big items was that I had the wheel bearings replaced. They weren't bad, just old, and given how the supply of spare parts is becoming iffy, I decided to have them changed now. I really wish I had a shop. I could have saved some money doing it myself...
Thanks Glenn. It was a really good time. I've always liked sunrises and this trip had 5 of them that I got to watch completely. Got to meet and talk with Jake, other engine owners, and take his car apart. Pretty cool.
Yeah, the stock mufflers keep the sound pretty sedate. I'm not a loud car guy, but I love the burble. The X-pipe brought in some burble. The headers have given it an exotic timbre as it winds up in RPM. To be fair, I've only driven it 30 miles to make sure they don't fall off. Today will be a better test. I wonder if the tone would change from heat cycling? I've been thinking about the Speedtech valved mufflers. I'm not as excited about mufflers as they don't seem to add to flow or reduce restrictions. We'll see.
Here's a totally unrelated pic from my drive: What would you rather have for $40K? A Porsche 996 with a Hartech or FSI engine, or this petrified tree?
Finally got the car back after several weeks of getting the windows replaced and also the windshield. Looks like a new car from the inside, looking out. However, had to put on this small little piece of jewelry just to make it all official. UPDATED. Got a check engine light after doing the oil cap. Reset codes and put the old cap back on and no light so far. Did not fit as snugly, but there could have been pressure build up from driving. Rough idle at first but later it smoothed out. Almost wonder if Oil/Air Separator is acting up? Thoughts?
Doing the pads & rotors is actually fairly easy to do! Hardest part trying to figure out what color you want to paint the calipers when you're in there LOL.....I decided to paint mine red.....and kind of wish I would have done yellow now but O'well.
I took off my electric rear spoiler a few days ago, removed all of the lift mechanism and put on a Getty Pedestal insert wing (I have a C4S so needed a wing that would replace only the electric spoiler)
Over the next few days I studied the wiring diagrams and decided on how to modify mine to keep the "spoiler fault" light off, and still have the body mounted 3rd brake light work.
I did it today (and it worked!)
Here is the harness mod
and here is the wing on the car
I am going to do another coat or two of 92U (Arctic Silver) and then 2k clearcoat
Thanks.
I just bought the car, and have it at my Mom's house in Calif. while I work out the bugs (did I say bugs? I meant mice!) before I ship it to Hawaii (my house).
The plates are the P.O.'s
Wisconsin has a "collector car" plate system that has lifetime registration.
Sounds like a good deal.
In Wisconsin if the car is 20+ years old you have the option of putting a "collectors" plate on it. I lived there for 56 years and know all about those....LOL.
First weekend having the car back with new glass and ceramic coating. So great having it back to detail. Tried some new detail products as well. Switch oil filler gaskets on the new cap to hopefully stop the CEL errors.
It�s all good! PCH is now Porsche Coast Highway.
Eastwood sells a heated stapler thing that is made for repairing plastic like this. Everything at Eastwood is expensive, so this tool could probably be found on Amazon for way less. I do like Eastwood's catalog though.
@theprf
I took my air box out today, and noticed that 2 of the 3 plastic 'clips' (think button holes) that accept the male tabs on the snorkel that slot into the air box are broken. Would a hot stapler work there? There is no plastic to reattach, they are lost. This picture shows the airbox side, with the slots intact. Mine are broken. Suggestions? How critical is a tight fit? Thanks!
Installed a new Alternator as the previous one was starting to get noisy bearings. Will refurb and sell the old one.
Broken oil filler hose has been like that for ages, have a fix in the works for that shortly.
(TLDR - airbag blowed up. It blowed up real good. Unprovoked)
I removed my driver's door panel to pull out the exploded airbag and try to patch things up. After assessing the damage I decided to order a used panel on eBay. The amount of force created by these things is amazing. Here is the back side of the airbag mount. It's pretty thick and heavy.
Had a rainy 215 mile rip through some of the best rural roads in Upstate NY with some pals. Really impressed with how planted the car felt in the wet on Pilot Sport 4S despite being a C2 with no LSD and no PSM/TC (not turned off, my car literally doesn�t have it). Also really pleased with how my 3.8 rebuild has broken in; a bud with a 997 C4S that was behind me in the pack said he had to work a bit to keep up when I�d drop the hammer.
No, it�s a 2000, which is why I find the spec so weird! It�s a total stripper spec other than the hollow-spoke lightweight 18� twists, electric seats, and premium sound.
The 3.8 builds really do rock when done right. Can�t wait to get an exhaust upgrade and tune to go with the extra displacement/fancy forged internals. Love a white one like your�s.
Hmm, non-PSM .2 cars might be more rare than I thought. According to a post in an earlier thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-standard.html
It may have to do with a majority of 996.2 cars not having a LSD, so PSM was supposed to save the day.
But I purposely didn't want PSM because i wanted to learn how to drive it on the track. However, I assumed it had a LSD after looking at a few 996.1s previous to buying my 996.2 and found out it didn't. No big deal, I then put on a Guard LSD and have been living happily ever after with a great handling car that you can easily control in varying conditions.
996.2 Tip here with neither LSD or PSM, and it does that characteristic nervousness when trail braking which makes me sad (my hoodrat BMW has a working LSD and can even use 964 clutches). Does Guard do semi-custom applications? I saw they have "coming soon" Tiptronic applications but I doubt it's 996, unless we share a diff with 997.1 or something.
Yeah, an LSD adds quite a bit of stability while braking and when the back end wants to step out.
About 15 years ago my indy sent my diff to Guard and they sent it back with the LSD in it. At that time they had a program. I hear they still do it and I also hear they don't do it anymore. Best thing to do is give them a call.
I understand that today their are a couple more providers of quality that you can choose from with varying internal designs.
I do have to say that the Guard has been performed beautifully. My indy just rebuilt it 2 years ago when they dropped the engine and were refreshing everything for me. But I had put on quite a few laps on Hoosiers over its history so a rebuild was inevitable.
Guys in the Turbo forum have been working on this and have a prototype LSD from one of the providers. I donated my old Tip transmission for them to use to get it fitted up.
Hi, also have a question about this. I thought all Turbos came with AWD, so an LSD seems to be somewhat redundant. Or would the LSD combined with AWD still create a performance advantage in some way? Or is this for the folks who will disconnect the front wheel drive? Thanks.
Performance advantage. Even with the power being sent to the front with an AWD system, the wheel with slip will still get more power sent to it with an open diff.
It uses the same diff.
Yes all Turbos are AWD. Removing the front wheel drive is pretty popular, except you end up with one wheel drive with an open diff. There are several LSD options available for the Turbo manual gearbox because it's almost identical to the 964 and 993 gearboxes.
Removing the AWD with the Tip is less wonderful without an LSD, you're stuck with one wheel drive. So they're trying to get the LSD mostly for those that want to go RWD. If a LSD for Tip had been available I might not have done the manual swap.
Replaced the radiator hose that goes between the driver side radiator and the center radiator.
The one with the weird curves.
Waiting on the overflow hose which should arrive tomorrow.
Took the time to clean the radiators and do the brake cooling/radiator vent mod.
It seems relatively straight forward, was there any surprises along the way?
@RennPart
Glad you're ok! Is the alignment of the door off at all? How about the suspension? The aftermath looks a LOT better than I thought it would
I bypassed the exploded airbag with a resistor rig and cleared the code The code came back after about 200 miles so there is still an issue somewhere that needs to be fixed before I put in another airbag, but I will definitely contact you once that's nailed down.
I installed my new Joe Toth 3-Piece Front Splitter.
My New Joe Toth Splitter seems to be saying "Where's the track?"
When I first got my new (to me) 996, I noticed it started feeling a little jittery at speeds above 75mph - like it wanted to dart side-to-side. (For those unfamiliar with the Phoenix freeways if you want to maintain the flow of traffic, yes, speeds get that high and higher.)
My mechanic said, "That's because you're used to driving a 944 - they're incredibly stable", but I figured there had to be
something
I could do...
So now I keep my speed below 35mph. Problem Solved.
Ok, actually I just threw mountains of money (by my standards) at the problem and ordered aero parts for my car. This is the first bit that arrived, and I finally had time to bolt it on this morning.
It's much,
much
more sturdy than I expected. It's held on by two anchor screws in the back corners and seven rubber nuts spaced evenly across the splitter and let me tell you, that sucker isn't going
anywhere
. I can see the splitter's front edge in my front camera and it's stable at speed - no shaking, no flapping - what does happen is the front bumper flexes down minutely under the additional downforce which literally makes the "smile" at the front of my car get a smidge bigger the faster I go. And if that isn't a Porsche thing then I don't know what is.
Oh, and the jittery feeling? Completely gone.
Good to know, its weird how different the .2 version is compared to the .1 ... the .1 is more expensive too.
https://demonspeed.com/product/splitter-porsche-996-c2/
If I recall my pre-purchase research correctly, Joe was talking about how making the .2 version in three pieces really helped in a lot of ways - cheaper to manufacture,
much
cheaper to ship, and cheaper to replace any portion of it that gets damaged. I documented the installation in this album -
https://rennlist.com/g/album/34922390
- haven't taken the time to write an entire thread about it (and not sure I will) but the pieces are all there.
I had originally considered attaching the splitter with dzus fasteners so I could easily take it off if needed, but once I discovered how sturdy the splitter was I realized the rubber nuts were definitely the way to go - this way if I catch the splitter on something the rubber nuts can fail rather than tearing up the front bumper.
Oh! And I'd be remiss if I didn't mention that Diane over at Demonspeed was super-nice and did a great job of communicating. Awesome Folks There.
Guess you should have heeded your wife's text! Just kidding.
Seriously man, that is some real driving there. Glad you are ok, and props to you for pushing the car and yourself, I would never have the huevos to do that kind of race.
Wow, glad you're okay.
I noticed your phone, on impact, came out of the mount and fell down into the driver's footwell. Just curious if you're considering changing how you secure the phone for DEs? I'm no racer but the last thing I would want in that situation is to have to also deal with a phone sliding around the pedal area.
Removed the OZ wheels that I will be using for strictly track duty and put on a set of turbo twists. Also removed the stock seats for a set of Recaro Pole Positions with Pepita inserts. Just bought the car last week for a street/track car to keep my 992 off the track. Loving this 996 so much already. Unrated car for sure.
Before
After
LOVE these seats
wheels are much better. Those seats are sweet, too. Especially the inserts. I need to do that to mine.
Euro Buckets are one of my best purchases. Transforms the experience on a twisty road�
I get jealous sometimes of folks with black interiors and how easy it is for them to pop a set of seats in their cars. Those look great! But I'd have to redo them in Metropol Blue.
It's this one, I have no personal experience with it but a few people on this forum have it and seem to have positive experiences.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154508227806
Bump!
I got my 996 body panels installed, was able to massage out the front tub and hang the fender, door, and bumper with perfect gaps. New radiators and condenser installed. All fluids filled etc. drove her around, I need to re-align it.
Car gets dropped off for quarter panel work tomorrow.
�Aaron
Thank you Specialized German for matching Ocean Blue panels
Ocean blue and Lapis Blue 986.
So, I replaced the conductor plate some months back, but was help up re-installing the connection through the transmission. I refilled the fluid and got the transmission up to temp, via temp gun, and topped it off. It took me many months to finally buy the Durametric. So I hooked that up and cleared the faults. I had to do that a few times, but the solenoid faults finally went away on the triptronic. Now I have a new fault, and the "Tiptronic Emergency Run" is still active; any ideas please:
Passenger window wasn't going all the way down. Suspected it was because someone didn't remove the stop on the regulator for a 911. My assumption was correct. Easy fix. Previous owner must have replaced and not known about it.
life�s too short to drive SUV�s. Unloaded my Macan and bought a X51 C4S street car to join the 01 C4 that�s currently getting the quarter fixed.
I love 996�s if you can�t tell.
�Aaron
I replace my front left wheel bearing.
It had started to whine VERY loudly.
The replacement was videoed and will be appearing on a popular YouTube channel soon.
I also got to drive a 996 GT2 spec car today.
It was scary fast.
Installed a new head unit from Crutchfield. Got their easy harness too. Easy install. Now I have BT, Pandora, usb charging, etc. Color match is just ok, but adjustable.
Had an alignment done, brake fluid flush and steering tie rods replaced all for a whooping $1042 out the door. Didn't think that was all too bad to be honest. Also had a detailed inspection done and even at 112k they said the car was in really nice shape......still need the RMS replaced ($2300) but other than that it's passed with flying colors!
Finally fixed my license plate illumination lights which haven’t worked in 12 years. Had to take the rear bumper off, which was ridiculously simple. Had to tap in to the tail light for power supply to the license plate lights.
I found the deck engine deck manual release cable buried inside my tail light recess. I thought the previous owner hid it there, but no..that’s a weird Porsche placement from the factory.
I spent more time trying to figure out a new route for that cable than in re-wiring my electrical gremlin.
Finished the GT3 Coilover install last night after waiting for my special order $30+ dollar top nuts to arrive
Cant wait to drive this thing again, but I will likely need to get another alignment done after changing the coilovers... will add a corner balance to the task list to see what the corner weights (and overall weight) looks like.
That was through Pelican Parts, when I was shopping around
Porsche South Bay
wanted to charge me $80 each... this is the same dealership group that wanted to charge me $150 for an emissions sticker my 06 Jetta needed. I ended up paying $80 from a different dealer. They are robbery, but I did manage to get the 997 part number, because everywhere else I called said the 996 part # was NLA.
Definitely need an alignment too, not sure why I made it sound like I wouldnt.
I replaced the turn signal bulb in my car. Only problem was, the bulb wasn�t bad. I had to probe around on the bulbs, connector pins, and bulb housing with a volt meter to figure out what was going on. Turns out, one of the little �leaf springs� that makes contact with the leaf on the bulb housing wasn�t making contact. Had to carefully bend it a little in order to get a completed circuit from the power to the ground pin.
Only problem now though is that I have an orange bulb in the DR side and a clear bulb on the AS side lol. Probably will replace the AS side with an orange bulb eventually.
Over the past few days - brake flush with ATE 200 DOT 4, cleaned wheel barrels, pads and rotors looked good, new AGM H7 battery made in Germany (@Walmart for $180ish with 4 year warranty). New rear wiper cover - old one mysteriously disappeared. Ordered new brake reservoir cap and 3 qts mobilube ptx.
Need to polish/wet sand/seal the headlights too. All set for floor mats for now. Saving the originals for some future owner.
And eventually tackle the foam coming out of vents issue.
Sebro lower idler pulley was making a clicking noise after only 2 years and maybe 6,000 miles, although, since the revs rarely drop below 4,000, maybe its the equivalent of many more miles. Looked like this.
Replaced it with the Rauch & Spiegel billet one for $233 from Pelican (it was in stock and I could get it next day) and I have to say, it solved the problem and looks like it will last a lifetime. Meanwhile, the Sebro one came from FCP so they will be getting me a new one which I will keep as a spare.
Sold it!!!
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...-cabriolet-24/
I am still in withdrawal but am furiously shopping around for a well priced 997.2 or 991.1 C4S Cab
Received my brand new brake fluid reservoir cap. Installed in record time. Nice tight fit. Perfect after recent brake fluid flush.
Also received delivery of 3qts Mobilube PTX. Gonna drain and fill soon.
I managed to get some time to do tick a few jobs off of the list:
Cleaned the drilled disks to try and stop a low speed brake squeal. I just ran a HSS drill bit through the holes to ensure they're clear
Installed GT3 brake ducts. Super cheap part, relatively easy install. Much easier if you take the wheels off rather that trying to do it with the car on stands
Installed GT3 seatbelt adjusters, replacing the rubbish factory ones
Fitted new panel clips for the left side door panel, this now properly clicks in and has removed a rattle
Chased down another rattle in the door that only happend only when the speaker was wired in with some bass through it
Polished my 1 cloudy headlight. The result is better than it was but there's clouding inside the light unit.
Checked the tyre pressures after my recent Brands Hatch trackday and topped them back up as they under when cold.
Yes to the ducts, not that I'd noticed any fade. The C4S is over braked as standard, I just liked the idea of a GT3 part 😁
So far, no squeal but too early to say. It's left a trail of rust on my garage floor though, I thought I'd suddenly got an engine oil for a minute! A garage quoted me �330 plus VAT to do it which was nuts
What is the process for replacing these seat belt adjusters? I know reinstalling the original ones are quite difficult. I bought these GT3 adjusters a long time ago, but haven't gotten around to putting them on. I tried briefly on the one side that fell off, and it wasn't obvious how they go on.
I often carry a bucket or two of used oil to the quick lube place to dump.
I ask if I can dump some used oil and then go grab it.
Sometimes they ask me to pull around back and sometimes they just say "sure" and I bring it in the front bay door.
Last time I had a young kid offer to help carry it and he stopped at the back of the 996 while I kept walking and got it out of the front.
Oil service and drove it a bit. Love driving it in the rain!
While at the shop there happened to be another Targa there. To my knowledge the only other 996 Targa in the state.
I was wondering if you were quoting the wrong picture, but maybe you're referring to my avatar picture... if you are, then the answer is worse than you think. LMK haha
Restored the seats of mine with some colourlock products. Drivers seat was quite bad and needed some cracking filled in etc. Came up pretty good really. Would love some pole positions to replace these one day.
The process wasn't obvious. For me it was:
Pull off the plastic cover, revealing the metal frame underneath
With a thin, flat head screw driver, carefully prise the 4 metal clasps off of the seatbelt bracket. These are not obvious at first, but are at each corner of the mounting point. Once I'd got 2 off I was able to wrestle the bracket off
Throw the crappy bits away
The new cover simply clips on.
This video
should help.
haha ok, heres the story:
My friends over on r3vlimited (a BMW E30 forum), love to give me a hard time. They really liked my ZZW30 MR2, as did I. When I bought this car, they keep calling it a Toyota and so they photoshopped my first real pic of my car with a random assortment of Toyota stuff. Front badge is from a JDM MR2, Wheels are from the 1st Gen MR2, side stripe says Toyota instead of Porsche, and the headlights are from the ZZW30... madness.... I was wondering when someone would ask about it, as its been my avatar for over a year.
The original pic
and the MR2 for good measure.
Took a ride to the Catskills for the weekend. My intermittently working top worked this time and I had fun taking the back roads to Woodstock. The weather was beautiful - sunny and 70F.
As the car is realitively new to me and I've been chasing other rubbish with the car I finally got around to replacing the air filter. Doesn't look great.
I wonder if the dirt in the filter is from the foam that is breaking apart in the air box?
Cool! I trekked a bit further west, from southeast PA up to Hamilton College for Family Weekend and some quality time with my youngest granddaughter. Stopped in to see an old friend near Ithaca on the way home. The targa was a fine companion as always.
One of things I find interesting about that part of New York is that taking secondary roads -- i.e. selecting "avoid highways" in google maps -- results in the trip taking only a little bit longer; for example the drive from Clinton to the Ithaca area was 2-1/4 hours on interstates versus 2-1/2 hours on the smaller roads. In most other parts of the country I've driven through that difference is much greater.
Well, I've gone and done it. I've ordered the Weize 60AH LiFePO4 starting battery and will post a review/long term thread in this forum once I get it. 1/4th the cost of Antigravity. Looking forward to dropping 35lbs.
Amazon
Amazon
Finally looked through my Racelogic data from earlier this year and forgot I had the camera on while driving the tail of the dragon (in the rain).
Enjoy
You Tube
--Aaron
Because I live in Florida and we get torrential rain, I actually drilled extra holes in the bottom. Originally there was just one drain hole, I enlarged that one just a little and drilled two more. It's all under the filter so it shouldn't matter much. But the snorkle can route water in the air box and it needs to drain. I thought one leaf and a bunch of rain would (possibly) fill up the air box. Just like the drains under the front cowling. Reminder, check your drains!
There were literally 100s of holes under my foam and the foam and the foam bracket are not sold separately, sadly. There are enough remaining holes for water to drain .
Finally had a chance to watch this video. Thanks so much for posting (wasn't obvious to me either). On the side that where the original had fallen off, I didn't realize that there was a backing plate that still needed to be removed -- so that's why I couldn't find a way to fit the GT3 cover.
Seeing how ridiculously simple the GT3 cover is, it's very difficult to understand the purpose of the original cover and backing plate.
Or to understand the complexity of the original design, which makes it very easy for the cover to get knocked while putting stuff in the back seat, but
very
difficult to reinstall once it has fallen off.
I have had the replacement cover piece for 4-5 months and had been completely baffeled until I watched the video - I was pretty sure I had the wrong part!
After 4 years (and some spilled gas) on my aftermarket Headlights, the clear coat somehow was compromised so I decided to replace them the same unit but in "all black". The little chrome turn signal accent bothered me as it looked like plated plastic. I retrofitted them for HID to improve the visibility. Now I can't recall how they were wired and it's very tricky to get them working right. No fault of the Mfg, as they are well made for what they are and worked great all these years. Wiring is not my best skill. Test fit the solid black and like the clean low key aspect. In the sun they retain the OEM shape but make it look updated IMO.
These look amazing. Do you have any more pics of them on the car? Also would love to know more about the lights: where did you get them, what HID kit did you use, did they come in "all black" or did you have to do some modifications?
Thanks!
Thanks. FURTHER EXPLANATION.
I bought them from "K2 Motor" (best price) on eBay on a day when there was a $100 off coupon I could apply. I had another pair that had a silver trim area that in retrospect, looked like cheap chromed plastic to me and also the clear coat (or maybe ceramic coating that had been applied was flaking after several years (some gas was spilled on them, so that might have caused it), so I opted for these. If you are ok with H7 Halogen, they are "plug and play", just slide them in. My previous pair was upgraded to HID which for some reason was hard to adapt and even in this case difficult. There was something defective with the driver headlights control system (turn signal issue), but K2 is resolving it now and they are extremely responsive with customer service and are willing to replace it asap. Was actually surprised. Build quality is very good. Adjusting the beams is not easy as the control to do that are in different places, but it worked out. The auction shows the light in great detail so there are no real mysteries here.
I bought my H7 HID Kit from HID nation.
https://www.hidnation.com/collections/h7-hid-kits
Having it to do over, the HID aspect and adjusting it all is a bit of drama I'm not into right now. Halogen replacement has improved in the last 3 years too with more options. My path now is to just upgrade the halogen bulb to an LED (seldom drive at night) and not go HID or splice anything and just enjoy them. There is a weatherstrip that comes with it you need to apply and that is something I change out to a better solution which is easy as well. If you get them I'll share what I did. I have gotten TONS of "likes" compliments on them, (average folks think the car is new) and the "all black" is what I should have done all along. Great upgrade. Looks so clean.
Here's the link to all black, no mods. Lots of info there. You can get "all silver" if you like a more OEM look. It was too "Bling" for me w black, but I've seen them on other colors and it's fine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384626940005
Love how "stealth" it looks. So clean. In the sun the shape still stands out, does not look "smoked" but also no "fried egg."
Unboxing. Well packed built well, solid.
This was my HID splice on the previous set which is just redoing the blade connector on the back of the bulb and cutting the rear cap open.
Compare the two. No weatherstrip yet.
NOTE: Running lights ONLY work with markers as shown, not for day. 1999 is too early for having them be on with ignition unless you rewire..
This is the first set w silver turn signal. Still looked great, but...
I actually don�t know what cell they are. The car does sound a little louder/deeper.
Thx! I replace things that are worn every time I�m under the car
The car had 84k on it when I bought it and at this point I�ve addressed almost everything� engine out overhaul (top end rebuild from loose valve seat), all new suspension bits, wheels, and lots of TLC.
My OEM cat started to rattle so I just replaced both. The rattle freaked me out but my Indy discovered it was the cat and had me listen to it with a stethoscope and confirmed that my engine sounded perfect. Once I got the cat out I was able to shake it and hear it rattle as well. It�s gone now and car sounds and runs great.
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Mine is doing the death rattle as well, and I am considering the same course of action that you took. They're designed to pass CA smog, correct? And you haven't tripped any codes? Thanks for any info!
I would keep a careful eye on those. I've had Magnaflow cats multiple times to pass smog, they all fell apart and clogged a downstream component within 1-2 years.
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Headlights working great after installing replacement set. One of them acted up (turn signal), might have been my install or connector, but they replaced them. I think the driver side is fixable, I just don't have a good feel for electronic stuff.
In case there is interest, I'm going to be
selling the first pair of the "all black" headlights and my previous ones with the Chrome trim (they were converted to HID and work fine).
PM me to discuss it. Could not be happier with the look. posted both versions. The silver has some clear coat issues that could be buffed off.
When doing the AOS Test remember to start the test with engine OFF, then start the engine ....To capture the MAX reading when the engine first starts......On most manometers there is a MIN/MAX value you can toggle through..
When the AOS first starts to fail sometimes it will spike up to 10-25+ inh2o then settle back down to specs....This is the first sign of AOS failure, then if the failure gets worse it will never come back down to specs....
I Test them cold then let them warm up and test again.....just to see if I can catch them spiking/slow reacting....if it lingers for more than a split second at a high reading it is failing.....The final specs is for warmed up and off of fast idle...
You never want to see a high reading, that is a sign the AOS is failing...
Have someone start it while you watch the manometer.....If it lingers up there for more than a split second it is failing.....If it comes back down almost instantly it is ok..
Wowowow, I love my UIDS! I installed it, and I also replaced my oil bypass spring + piston (again - 3 months after the previous replacement) and I think I�m getting an additional 0.25 bar of oil pressure everywhere�
I can�t tell whether my �low� oil pressure previously was due to a bad spring/piston or not, but today�s replacement jobs has left me really pleased.
I�ve been avoiding specific freeway on- and off-ramps that are banked, because I noticed my oil pressure dropping noticeably in those turns. After installation of the UIDS, I took one of those off-ramps and was very happy to see 4 bar of oil pressure on my gauge.
I noticed 4.5 bar of pressure on the first long sweeper taken, whereas I could barely eke out 4.0 bar at any time previously. It�s such a relief to be able to drive without having to worry about oil starvation!!!!
Eventful long weekend!
passed 66,666mi
first time "on a track" with the 911 (only did a few parade laps between event volunteering duties, but experimenting with weight transfer was incredibly fun and so much more satisfying than street driving)
bonus: Arena Red meets Ruby Red!
started to dial in the damping on the Feal 441's after getting used to the default settings for a few months
finally got around to replacing the engine mounts
I was super pumped to get the engine mounts done. This was the most complicated mechanical project I've done on the car thus far, and I loved how straightforward it was. I've always loved tinkering with things but don't have much experience with cars, so even the trivial stuff is still exciting for me.
As for the next project... she's getting her first wash in ~3 months to prep for the BaT Alumni event in NY this upcoming Saturday, and Caffeine & Carburetors in CT on Sunday. Hoping to see some other 996's!
Paying the "engine mount replacement" photo tax
I've been busy. But I did make this video highlighting getting my 996 C4 I wrecked at the end of July back on track.
Happy to have run a good lap time at VIR this past weekend with the 1st Settler's PCA (2:07.53).
--Aaron
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlbUbTmRuWY
After 4 years of using the tie wrap to tighten up the window regulator cable on the 04, I finally remove the window regulator and shipped to Power Window Repair in Phoenix AZ They did one for the 02 car, love they use all metal parts in rebuilding them and lifetime warranty.
After driving my Wife's new 911t, I developed shift envy and installed the 997 shift console and new Tequipment shift **** and boot. Understanding the 997 console isn't a true short shift kit and the difference isn't huge, it does make enough of a noticeable difference that I will also do the same on our Boxster S. Straightforward job, although I am always concerned about breaking old plastic tabs when working in the console, no problems. Good 'mod' for ~$300.
My manual experience is with BMW M3s and the 718 GT4. The stock 996 shift travel felt a little long to me in compared to what I was used to. I considered Numeric and Function First ball bearings with a 997 shift console but switched to the black slightly shorter shifter from FF when they released that product. I didn't want something super short so I was worried that Numeric would be too short.
I went with the Function First ball bearings, the black slightly shorter shifter and the newly launched shift cables with the upgraded ends. The FF parts look super high quality and I was impressed with the metal bearings, shifter and cable.
Wow, the change is dramatic. The FF parts make the feel of the shift action much crisper and more mechanical feeling than stock. I did the short shifter and cable at the same time so I am not sure how much each part contributes to the change. If you like the "buttery" or softer feel of the stock Porsche shifter then you probably will not like the mechanical feel of the FF parts. It took a couple days of driving to get used to it but I definitely prefer the feel of the FF over stock. The shift action has a very positive shift engagement and the amount of time to shift feels well aligned with rev matching and clutch release.
The shift travel of the black FF shifter is perfect for me. It's much shorter than the stock 996 but it feels similar to the 718 GT4 shift travel. It feels like a factory short shift length and does not feel especially short after driving it for a few days.
Lastly, I don't perceive any additional NVH or noise from the FF shift cables compared to stock. It was a couple days between when I drove it stock vs installed so I don't have a back to back comparison but the noise in the cabin seems unchanged.
Overall a great mod if you are looking for a more mechanical feeling shifter with shorter travel but where the Numeric might seem too aggressive. It would have been ideal to be able to compare the two directly in person before purchasing but I decided to go FF based on the various reviews, videos and experiences out there. Hope this helps anyone considering these mods.
WOW. Shift cables from FF! This is big news IMHO. I just checked the website and they look like a fantastic product. (No association, just a happy shift-right kit user.)
https://www.function-first.com/produ...cables-996-997
I added a front spindle, rotor, and caliper to my "Garage Art" gallery wall.
Got to have "pretty things" for my 996 to look at, even if this is a working garage.
Now I need to get back to organizing & cleaning.
Of course making a wall mount for my Garage Art was a distraction from that.
It took three tries to get the mount to hold the spindle at the angle I wanted. (But to look at the mount you'd think it was simple)
Also I plan to reduce the amount of some of my spare parts.
I have just over 500 spare parts, most of which are brand new.
I have a full inventory, but part of the organization will be to be able to easily find the parts and get rid of those I won't need.
I have quite a few 996.1 specific parts that I don't need.
I just need time to do it, which is what has been lacking for a while.
My 2004 996 AE isnt getting much attention these days. Been all in on my new to me race car last few years. Well that and a 1988 911 Cab that got a full mechanical refresh...
I did give her a nice bath, and pulled the front bumper off to detail the radiators haha removed debris
5k miles in the 10 years I have owned her. Hope to get a few more miles with her in 2025
2004 Factory rear deck lid and wing, GT3 wheels, polished, GT3 Euro seats and Tequipment Roll bar for show
It's all about the camera angles!
What I want:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...-garage.55006/
What I currently have:
(It's gotten this way mainly due to illness followed by physical injury, and now even worse my attempts to reorganize. It always gets much worse before it gets better!!)
I'm determined to have a space MUCH closer to the 12 Gauge Garage eventually.
I like Jack's stance on "nothing on the floor."
But that's caused a lot of stuff to get moved around while I work on the "prettier side."
Drove Barber this weekend for the first time. What a great track for the 996. The museum is awesome too!
Car came home in one piece (always a plus).
--Aaron
Yesterday actually, I replaced my lightweight 3.5 year old Odyssey battery with a full-sized H7.
Out with this:
...and in with this:
The new one weighs a LOT more and I'm definitely going to miss the kill switch.
The prices are about the same.
Odyssey is $10 cheaper, but there is some shipping that makes it a few dollars more.
But I don't daily drive my car any longer, so it has to be kept on a changer.
Also the Odyssey is a bit small to use for tuning changes without a charger attached.
The Odyssey battery mount will be kept in case I make it to The Texas Mile in spring 2025.
Took mine for a late autumn stretch of her legs in the twisties west of Sedalia, CO. Got caught out in a blinding snowstorm on the way home. A 1-hour drive turned into 3 hours with virtually no visibility. I was grateful to get home! But despite terrible visibility and still having her summer shoes on, the C4S had no trouble!! Man, I love this car!
This was the last soiree before putting her up on the rack for a few mods/updates over the snowy months. Depending on my timing, I may still get some time with the snow shoes on later this winter.
I had a visit from the brown truck, maybe early Santa or Father Frost? Some new-to-me wheels. They look gigantic compared to the "old air-cooled" wheels. A "big wheel" was a 8" or possible 9" X 16. Now a common front is larger than a "former large" rear.
Did some things and stuff.
Finally got around to replacing the driver's door panel after this summer's spontaneous airbag explosion. Received and installed the tiny clip for the roof mechanism (clamshell?) Added a wireless phone charger to the lower cubby.
This is the clip I needed to finish fixing my Cab top. Shipping was $5.00.
It's not just Porsche parts that get hit with high shipping costs.
I need 3 special plastic undertray nuts to finish a Honda Civic.
(Bottom one in picture below)
They cost $5 total, and all of the online Honda places want to charge me $15 shipping.
These could (and probably would) ship in a padded envelope for under $3.
Looks like I'm making a trip to the Honda Dealer today to pay full retail.
That part is also called a "Tinnerman's Nut". Very common at good hardware stores. It comes in various size hole for screw/etc and length. It is probably about $.20 or there-abouts. Same or similar plastic push "screws" all over 996-997 are also there, maybe not exact, but they will work.
YMMV
The wheels I bought (post #10676) had black marks and black scratches on them, plus a little bit of rash on the outer rim lip. I thought about the scratches and decided a scratch is on the surface, and there is paint, primer, or aluminum under it.
I tried alcohol to clean the scratches and get the dirt-rubber? out. Semi OK, not good. Next I tried lacquer thinner and clean rags. Viola! It worked! Ordinary wheel finish under the scratches, so everything "blends" in.
The black marks were some kind of rubber or asphalt junk and the scratches cleaned up quite nicely. I still have to polish the wheels and re-wax or coat them with something like ceramic stuff-don't know the names of stuff these days. Anyway, for and hour or so of effort the wheels look a lot better. I may sand and paint-blend the rim rash(es), maybe yes, maybe no. The wheels look better and it IS for a 20 year old car, almost a DD, but still, just a machine. It won't be perfect, just reflect life in the fast lane.
YMMV
For the 2 million versions of odd rubber/plastic plugs/nuts Porsche used when building these cars, I usually try to find something similar at an auto parts store. I've found that BMW used a lot of similar ones and the national stores tend to stock them. For ones I can't find, I design and 3D print replacements if they're not a critical component.
This is an old followup to this post of mine above.
I recently sold my 996 C4S to a friend and put those funds towards a 971 Panamera Turbo (chalk on black) which better suited my use cases. Being that the car is also monochromatic like my C4S, I decided to give it the Turbonite treatment. I ordered the hood badge ($150) and wheel center caps ($230) from Suncoast (no affiliation). I can even get the air bag (like $1,300 on Suncoast). But, that's a lot of dough. I might only do that if I can get most of that for selling my current airbag with the colored crest. Not sure what they are going for. I could also get all of the same parts from my local dealer a bit faster, but Suncoast was less expensive and ships from 1 state away.
I like to be matchy, matchy 😂
Anywho...I'm posting here because I'm pretty sure that if you opted to get the Turbonite hood badge for your 996 like I did above, I think that you can get a set of center caps to match and fit wheels from the 996 era. Although there are different size center caps now, they make Turbonite caps in the older size. If anyone wants, I can use calipers to measure my center caps for you to compare to yours. Had I been aware of this before I sold it, I would have done this for my 996.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/skuccturb.html
https://www.suncoastparts.com/SRCH.h...arch=turbonite
There are a few options, I would contact them to verify before ordering.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/img_7961_c98e1dd2dc313c99f751b0d42944639554a13c99.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/img_7960_344c2ad7b02cd6cd240545d11831b16f1ce8e9f4.jpeg
Considering returning my 996 AE car to stock
Link to pictures
https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1441032
Parts are Factory OE in excellent condition
I am hoping the RL community can help me with asking price range for each item before listing them
1. Euro seats with Alcantara and leather inserts includes rails
2. Factory Tequipment Roll bar with all mounting hardware from Porsche included
3. 996 Aero deck lid and wing 2004 OE GT Silver
4; Polished GT3 996 wheels 8.5 x 18 and 11 x 18
Be kind. I bought this stuff a long time ago. I have had my 2004 10-11 years now. Bought it with 28k on the clock today has 34k. Just dont drive it much. Too many cars haha
Anyway, let me know price ranges for this stuff if I sell on RL
Thanks
I was turned on to such products when I asked my mechanic to recommend a mobile detailer to come out to the house and detail 3 vehicles. Having someone come to the house is great because you don't have to coordinate getting 3 vehicles to a detail shop and tying up hours of your day waiting. I was simply working from home inside.
In preparation for him to show up, I had the hose unwound and pulled out to the driveway area. He's like, "Thanks, but I don't need water." I was like, "Wut?" He did 2 cars in the driveway and left one in the garage. He just needed space to get around it easily. Amazing results.
Those products are really cool, especially in the winter when I have no desire to stand out in the cold with wet hands for nearly an hour washing cars.
This video sort of mirrors my experience:
You Tube
The "Speed Shine" products are really useful for garage queens that simply get dusty over days/weeks of no use or the occasional coffee run. Just spray and wipe the car down with a microfiber cloth while in the (semi) climate controlled garage.
Did an oil change with kit from LN for the IMS Solution
New LN magnetic plug is now 50 Nm vs 26 for the old one
Definitely do not prefill the oil filter
NAPA 1348 still made in the USA
I've been using Mequiar's Waterless Wash products for many years with great results. Just need to use lots of it so that the dirt is carried above the surface when you wipe with a microfiber rag.
I'm chicken to use waterless because the dirt needs to be "washed" away, meaning it runs with the water as the water is being sprayed at it. I refuse to even put a towel to mine even for drying it as it will leave scratches in the paint (clear coat). Once I wash the car I take my leaf blower and dry it. Maybe I'm just **** but it works for me.
While I use waterless occasionally, I agree a lot of care needs to be exercised in doing so. I use the pump sprayer below with an Optimum No Rinse waterless mix to spray surfaces first to help lift the before using waterless from the bucket. I also use the spray with Optimum No Rinse mix to loosen up and remove bird droppings on the DD that lives outside the garage. These sprayers are pretty handy.
Sprayer:
Amazon
Amazon
Spent an entire day doing paint correction, polish, and full ceramic coating. Shines more than I knew was possible! Need to take pics outside after the ceramic is fully cured.
I did the blend door foam repair today. I decided on the dash method as it was the simplest and gave access to both doors. Job was done in under an hour.
Took a drive to feel the results. No heat whatsoever coming from the blower. As it turns out a previous owner had bypassed the heater core.
I decided the core needed to come out to make sure it was not leaking so I ended up doing the other method and fully removing the blend door to seal it from both sides.
FWIW, I think the dash method is the better of the two for ease and being able to access both flaps.
I just ordered a set of Feal 441 as well. Curious to hear your impressions when you can. Changing anything else with them? Dogbones? Toe Arms? Bumpsteer?
I've checked everything out and my existing parts are in good shape, except for my front LCAs. I have those coming from FCP Euro. Everything else will go back stock unless/until I perceive a need.
Posted the rest of today's work over here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post19790512
but this was the most fun part of today's projects:
Curtains match the drapes.
Keeping up with issues as they arise, it was heater core time. The smell when calling for heat was pretty clear, but after pulling the core, there was no fluid to be found. The top had some dried coolant, which made a surprising stink for the amount of leakage.
also, the Valeo core has a different number of pipe �loops� at the bottom, but fit fine�.. and I found it worth the time to remove the battery, making the hoses much easier to work with.
-Eric
Replaced with Interstate wet cell from Costco. Pulled battery tray and cleaned up under it, cleared drain holes, treated tray with baking soda then painted with Rustoleum in semi-gloss black.
-Ohlins R&Ts, LOVE how they ride, set at 17 clicks as she's a DD, now that i got used to it I may tighten it up 2 clicks
-replaced 997 Turbo wheels with 996 Turbo Twists from the marketplace =D, improvement?
proper
Before on the 997 Turbos
All that matters is if you like it. Personally nothing beats the turbo twist wheels on a wide body 996. Also think 19s are too large on anything smaller than a 997.
[QUOTE=flightschool101;19798756]-Ohlins R&Ts, LOVE how they ride, set at 17 clicks as she's a DD, now that i got used to it I may tighten it up 2 clicks
/QUOTE]
is that 17 from full stiff? If so thats about the sweet spot. I run 10 from soft on the street and about 7-8 from stiff on the track.
I just did this today and was cursing the whole time. I had decided to replace the pads with low dust ones after I replaced the rotor and calipers, and torqued the new bolts. Trying to replace the vibration dampers and new pads with the caliper and rotor in situ is a very tight squeeze. I do not recommend.
[QUOTE=De Jeeper;19799036]
Yup! So 3 clicks from full soft. Its very compliant obviously but I think a little stiffer would be a good combination for street.
The dampers are a pain, especially when just trying to replace the pads given the tight fit, combined with the adhesive backing. If I�m remembering correctly, it�s easier just to remove the caliper again. That�s an extra step, but only a couple of bolts. I imagine it�s near impossible to change pads with the caliper in place, especially if the damper adhesive has bonded to the existing pad.
Just a little cab fun......All of a sudden very jerky operation, wasn't taking fluid, than the ubiquitous stain on ground in front of rear tire! Pulled cylinders and sent off to Colorado to Craig N for his rebuild. Thank God I don't have to pay the Porsche tax and can do all of this myself.
BTDT. A couple of weeks after a brake job when I first bought the car, I realized the Textar pads were a mistake and replaced them with less dusty
Akebonos. I ended up using a spark plug feeler gauge with a tiny hammer to break the adhesive loose between the shim and brake pad. Next time, I'm not sure if I would try it again or just remove the calipers.
Brought her into the 21st century (ok, she was a product of the century, but dated). PCCM+ and storage to replace the CD tray.
Speakers are toast. Open to suggestions (other than Porsche's options, too much coin for me at this time!)
I went with Rockford Fosgate R14X2 in the dash, and rears. Didnt do door subs yet. I had to get the super paulie adapters on ebay to make them work. Easy install with adapters.
Unlike the dash and rear speakers, most of which have self-destructed cones now (due to age, not abuse) because they are made of cheap material that doesn't last, but the door speakers are very well built with rubber surrounds.
I'm not really sure the door woofers need to be replaced. If you are using the factory amp, Ideally, the replacements should be 2 ohms (which are pretty hard to find). 4 ohms is fine also (actually safer for the amp), but will be quieter than the stock speaker because the levels were designed for 2-ohm. If you have your own amp with adjustable levels, then it won't matter.
These can Tang 5.25" sub drivers (
https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-B...831?quantity=1
) are the real deal (pretty serious sub output), and can be installed with hole cutting to the internal door enclosure. Note that Tang makes 2 5.25" subs -- needs to be the Neodymium sub with the narrow magnet -- the one with the fat magnet will not fit. The Tang is 4 ohm, and it's main output is much lower than the stock woofer, so you need to do some light EQ to make it work. Also, the Tang is borderline too powerful in terms of low-bass output for the door enclosure (it can rattle because of excess deep base). Modern radios typically have some EQ capabilities, but if you're running the stock head unit, not sure the Tang can be balance with just bass and treble.
Some people have replaced the original woofer with just regular 2-way 5 1/4 speakers and have claimed it sounds better. I think the stock woofer isn't bad. That said, the Tangs, properly balanced with EQ, much more bass and can be tuned to stay within the limits of the enclosure.
I bought a set of factory door subs figuring that eventually mine would need replacing. I've never installed them as my 25 year old originals are still good. I paid $55 each for them but now they're selling for about $135 each at Pelican Parts. Part Number 996 645 50 100.
It's when an insurance scammer cuts fast in front of you in their car, then slams on the brakes. You have no time to stop and usually end up rear ending them. They always "act hurt" even with a minor impact.
After the accident, they hire personal injury lawyers to make "pain and suffering" claims on your insurance policy in addition to claiming money for their damaged car.
You're only defense is a dash camera.
You Tube
My stepson got caught up in this scam a few years ago, car in front making a right turn at stop sign started to make turn my stepson behind him started to move up while looking left to determine on coming traffic car in front slammed on brakes even though no traffic coming my stepson hit the rear of that car, even at low speed driver had neck and back injuries. Lesson learned do not move forward until car ahead is gone!
Rich
This is the video that convinced me to get a dash cam. This incident was on a road that I travel from time to time and not too far from where I live.
You Tube
Dash cam is clearly the best solution, but I have read that an officer can pull the airbag crash data from the event data recorder (EDR). Hopefully that would show you were stopped when the collision happened and/or they were in reverse. Even if their vehicle was old enough to not have a EDR presumably most of us are (daily) driving cars new enough to have them and it would show you were stopped when the collision occurred.
Something to keep in the back of your mind if anything like this happens to you.
Not all accidents result in an airbag deployment. I doubt that they would go through the trouble for a fender bender. Maybe if there was a fatality. My wife's brand new car was totaled and to my knowledge no one asked for airbag data even though there were lawyers involved.
Thanks for the empathy. I faired better on the other side and rears. There is a slight difference in the metal pad shim thickness and coverage on the new pad, making it tighter initial fit than the OEM pad. I was able to push the pistons in a little more and they slid in with out too much effort. You are correct that taking the caliper off would be the way to go especially since I just had them off but the bolts are one-time torque use according to Porsche and didn't want to order and wait for another set.
That light is a great idea. most have magnets but hard to get them pointed where you need light.
I used a metal paint scraper to separate the adhesive vibration balancer from the old pad while in place. I don't have pictures of the new pads but the old pads had a metal shim plate attached to the backing plate that didn't go to the edge of the pad. The new pads did and it made it that much harder to get them started.
Was changing out the oil pressure sender and just looking over the engine with a flashlight. Noticed a large pile of leaves/debris under intake manifolds! MICE! I just bought it a month ago, so still catching up on deferred maintenance. Dug out my modified shop vac and put the skinny pipes on and either sucked it out or when it clogged the opening, dumped on floor, hence the picture. Was thinking that it was a perfect fire scenario of things got hot enough. Unlikely, but it was also blocking the oil cooler. Just a reminder to check that area out on your car.
Have you tried mothballs by chance? They seem to have worked for me when I was living up in WI. I would put them down around the car and refresh every so often.
Shameless plug
I have a nice
Heritage style tachometer gauge face for sale in the marketplace
for the 996.2. It does have the script Carrera T silkscreened on it. I ordered the correct one for my 996.1 and it looks and works great.
Checked camshaft deviations, overrevs, created a VAL, enabled the onboard computer, changed the oil and filter.
But it wasn't my 996, it belonged to someone else.
Finished my Dash Cam install because the weather was cooperative. (My detached garage isn't heated). I had been using the included cigarette lighter adapter but that wasn't a good option for two reasons, 1 - I don't like the look, and 2 - I would have to remember to disconnect it after driving. In a senior moment, I carefully made sure to remove fuse E5 before cutting the wires to the cigar lighter. Then I remembered that my plan didn't include the cigar lighter. I was supposed to tap into the telephone connector for the switched power. Doh!. Thank God for Wago connectors.Anyway, mission accomplished - no visible wires and the dash cam turns on when I start the car and off when I remove the key.
Rebuilt some front axles for a beautiful low mileage .1 C4 (all C4's I see usually have bad front outer boots).
Did some front rotors and pads as well a brake fluid bleed:
An AOS - its right there when you're doing a clutch or IMS:
Last IMSS job of the year
A water pump:
My shop neighbor is out of town so I couldn't use his Sonic cleaner and I wanted to put the rest of one of MY motors together (not a customer's). While the MRS was out this AM I did a little cleaning.
Happy New Years to everyone on Rennlist!
--Aaron
Nice!
I keep trying to find room for a tire changing machine, but just can't give up that much space.
If I had another 10x10 area that was free, I'd definitely get one.
Nice, I just sold my tire machine in less than a day on FB Marketplace, just took up to much space, LOL maybe it will force you to clean up and make room, you will be glad you spent extra for the helper arm.
I found that it didn't work that well for wheel centers. Maybe I should have been using a Bosch dishwasher instead of a Samsung.
Something else that's probably best done when the S/O is away is using the oven to heat the adhesive on multi-piece wheels before disassembly.
Yuck guys, that seems incredibly unsanitary. I hope y�all give those appliances some extra deep cleaning cycles.
Personally I�d rather replace them, and relegate those used appliances solely for automotive purposes.
This was my first work on my new-to-me '01 Turbo. The coolant reservoir was obnoxious to get clear of the water pump supply hardline directly beneath it. I did not realize that the tank hangs from a second point further in the back. I also replaced the cap, sensor, fuel filter, engine mounts, and drive belt. Nothing was leaking, yet, but the old tank is plenty yellow. One of the old engine mounts was a bit lower than the other. Unfortunately, I noticed a slight bulge in one of the coolant hoses while I was in there, and so the next job is now planned.
Also working with motor mounts. Installed the 964 RS mounts. After torquing, the fastener stack still rotates with medium wrench force. Is that normal? I realize these are locknuts.
Don't know about the 964 RS mounts, but the OE mounts have square nuts on the shank that line up with the engine carrier cradle. Lined up right and they won't rotate while tightening the bottom nuts.
First 24 hours of ownership:
Drove her 600 miles (FL to GA).
Got new key made at the local dealership.
Fixed diverter flaps (the air was coming out lukewarm warm even at the Hi setting)
Fixed loose steering stalk stack.
This is totally new coming from the Tacoma/Land Cruiser world.
That�s a pretty productive 24 hours! Can�t wait to hear about �day 2�
.
Which do you find is more nimble between the 996 and the Tocoma?
.
Welcome to the club � you should have an absolute blast with that car.
Yeah, I'm flipnidaho in TW also. I mostly participate in the mountain bike threads over there. I have a 1st Gen, and 2 3rd Gens (TRD OR and a TRD Pro). Plus the LC100 (2005 LX470). And a 99 M-Roadster that I've driven all of 12k miles. It's going to be someone's barn find some day.
I've had the car just a few days now and felt that the short shifter was a little sloppy. I opened it up and found what looks to be an eBay short shift kit. It was missing a lock nut on the front bushing adjuster (the threaded rod coming out of the purple bushing) and while trying to adjust it, one of the circlips hold the rear bushing came off, pushing the bushing off the pin. Luckily this happened in the garage. The clip and bushing falling out was not very confidence inspiring in a short shift kit. I ordered the Numeric V2 the same evening.
Those cheap shifters are definitely less than ideal but Ben Auto Design cleans up that style with tighter fit and ball bearings for rotational surfaces. Combined with the machined side lever, the end result is quite nice for about $320 or so. Uniwerks sells the items.
https://www.uniwerksdesign.com/produ...short-shifter/
Sad day for me
This week I'll be pulling off 6GT3 bits from my 34k mile 2004 AE car
Euro buckets
Rollbar Factory
Wheels, polished to match our BBS AE style
and,
Aero factory deck lid and wing
Returning my car to stock to prepare for sale. Yes, all the 51 known failure preventive mods done! Luggage comes with, key and wallet. Love this car. 10 years and 6k miles. Too many cars and the 997 GT3 is calling my name.
Know, just to to go the mancave and get if off the rack and down for the disassembly process haha
Busy holiday period for me and the 996.
First mod was a new bank 1 chain tensioner as mine would leak down over time. Hard to get it back in so made a tool to help.
Then was Rennline competition wheel studs so I can fit 15mm spacers front and rear.
Next was an update to my intake, adding a PVC fitting that I had to make out of a couple of fittings. Also drilled a few extra holes in the bottom of the air box for more noise.
After Xmas I then modded my exhaust a little more with a partial block off plate near my gundo/foster hack. just a slot with a 2mm plate dropped in to enable a little more noise to bypass muffler. Works good for now.
Then a full detail with a da polisher to make it look pretty!
Then I got bored and did the bumper off radiator clean. lots of gunk and worth the effort for peace of mind.
Finally having previously done the water pump, the thermostat was an unknown. I decided obviously to replace with a 71deg version, turns out it has an 83deg installed. 1 hour job, not hard apart from the one bolt at the top!
That's all for now, although I've got plans for a rear cage and a full homebuilt pair of mufflers in the future.
Holiday downtime gave me time to do some preventative maintenance�.. dropped the engine to do the water pump/AOS and give the clutch a once over�.. clutch/flywheel looked perfect, but RMS was leaking�.. broke the oil fill tube during the work, luckily it�s easy to replace�. Also dropped the oil pan to see if there�s anything of interest�.. turned out to be perfectly clean after 100k miles.
Next project will be suspension work.
-Eric
04 996
99 986
Happens all the time right at the accordion section. I tried to JB weld mine at one point but just electrical taped the **** out of it until I replace my AOS with the UAOS, which comes with an oil filler tube.
So jealous of owners who can drop the engine and work on them. Mechanically inclined here but that's above my skill level. Interesting garage floor treatment you have there Eric.
Sometimes you just need to take the plunge! These cars are not to hard to work on......BUT with that said I still haven't dropped my motor yet (LOL), but will tackle doing so in the coming months....for now for me is doing the water pump and thermostat.
There is a QuickJack under there somewhere....... The latest (from a few years back) version of the QuickJacks go high enough that you can roll the engine/transmission out from under using the Harbor Freight little transmission jack and motor cycle jacks. No need to play games lifting up higher......
Remember, the first rule of dropping the engine, make sure you have a college athlete helper that doesn't mind crawling around under the car! (it helps motivating him if car works is split between your car and his 986)
-Eric
04 996
99 986
A stack of Ocean Blue. My two favorite cars - the 2.5l 99' Boxster and the 01 C4 (PTS according to the window sticker)
I finished this spare 5 chain 3.4l motor - might test it in the blue car.
--Aaron
Thanks, I just measured the opening and went to my plumbing section at the local hardware store. I used a threaded socket inside the resonator area, and epoxied into place. The top plug used a cut down socket with a cut down end cap and I used the PVC glue solvent to glue it all together. I was wary too make sure I had a sleeve inside the cap so it couldn't fail or crack. Sorry can't remember size, metric probably 50mm?
The self centering is nice (but I can't compare it to Numeric V1). I think it's what makes the shift from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th easier than the B&M clone. The self centering also does not add any additional effort compared to the B&M clone. If anything, the sealed bearings make it smoother, reducing perceived effort. I'll have a video of before and after publishing and will post it later.
The original quick jacks did not lift the car high enough to easily roll the engine out. It was 4-6 inches too low, so you had to play games lifting the car, putting it down on something to allow you to build up on top of the quick Jack, and then lift again��. It was awkward�.. the current models go higher�..
-Eric
How does is the Numeric for daily driving? I love the way my stock 996 shifts in my normal driving, but my son occasionally autocrosses it and the car doesn't want to downshift from 3rd to 2nd under full hard braking (he's fine in other manual cars, so it's specific to my 996) -- and 3rd to 2nd is perfect other than under massively hard braking. That issue is probably more about the transmission mounts (long story on that), but wondering if the Numeric shifter would help. I don't want to increase NVH at all because it's a 99.9% street car that is driven conservatively otherwise -- replacement transmission mounts be OEM, and I guess I'd keep the OEM shifter cables (I think I have read on RL that the Numeric cables are a bit rough for a car that is 99.9% street car). Just wondering how Numeric shifter with OEM cables would feel in daily driving. If I can fix my son's issue, but retain (or improve) what I love so much about the car in regular driving, I might do the Numeric.
I don't have enough miles on the Numeric to comment about daily driving but my guess is that it will be just fine. It's already an improvement over the B&M clone that I had there before. I will have to say that the Numeric is more precise which may make the 3rd to 2nd and 5th to 4th easier to find for your son. There is a definite improvement from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th. However, I don't know what a stock 996 manual feels like so I wouldn't be able to say if it will be an improvement or not.
Be sure to do the engine mounts too -- they're pretty easy especially compared to the trans mount. OEM is the way to go although a lot of folks will argue that.
Purchased a 2004 911 Carrera Cabriolet, my first Porsche, a month ago and one of the things I missed was a backup camera. Porsches are hard to see backing up. In addition I also installed new struts on the cargo hood.
I noticed that my sun visor mirror cover was missing on the passenger's side. Luckily, some were available via eBay and even Amazon. Not original with the yellow warning stickers all over it but it covers the mirror and toggles the light switch when open so a win.
Just add one. Watch this series on Rennvision. If the link doesn't work, just go to YouTube and search "PCCM Clone".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQSOlJpFbuY
I installed one in my C4S. My head unit has the ability to add one; ran wiring hidden along the interior and through a body grommet to the reverse light circuit. Mounted the camera just above the license plate. Basically invisible.
excuse the crap pic, I was verifying wires for the transmission swap.
I added a wireless back-up camera in a license plate frame a year or two ago. Unfortunately it doesn't give the wide angle view I'd like because of the recessed area and the rubber bumpers.
Grabed my winter parts from the dealer. A few things had to come from germany so it took a while. Got my 6-gt3rs rear uprights to match the fronts along with 7-gt3 under panels. The goal is to incresse the air to the rear brakes and help the aero a little. There is still 1 more piece to buy that goes on the lca, it kinda looks like a rams horn.
While at the dealer i was checking out the 3 brand new gt3rs. The silver and white were Wseissach edition at $510k each. Soooo sexy.
I thought about those GT3 underpanels. I still have too much other stuff to spend moola on though.
I am probably not in the majority but, while the new GT cars certainly have stupendous* performance, I think they look like crap. All the doodads and gewgaws hanging everywhere. Whatever happened to clean lines. It's even worse IMO that all the tacked on crap LOOKS tacked on because it's a different color. Plus, well, they look chubby.
*computer aided
Took her out of winter slumber for a 20 mile jaunt with the wife and got lucky (not that kind of lucky). When I got home I took a look at the floor behind the driver's seat and saw a bottle of wine laying there. I live in New England and we have had nights with temps in the teens. I recalled that I had attended a party at my son's in November and bought some wine en route to the gathering. I brought one bottle into the house in the wine bag and left the other on the floor of the 996. I promptly forgot it was there until seeing it yesterday. The good news is that wine doesn't freeze until temps get to 15f to 20f and the temp in the garage is 4f over the outside temps. The bottle didn't crack/leak so all is well.
I am old and have old cars, so have never owned a car with a backup camera. I suppose as I get older and maybe get a newer car with one I will love it, but for now I just don't know how it feels to have one!
Great project! Would love to hear about the differences in the GT3 panels and potential improvements over the Carerra panels. Be interesting to see how much is plug and play and the mods you will need to do. Good luck with it.
This is the one I got. I just put one tab into the visor hole and then squeezed the other in and done. No need to take out the entire unit to put just the cover on.
Amazon
Amazon
QUOTE=GC996;19841217]Great project! Would love to hear about the differences in the GT3 panels and potential improvements over the Carerra panels. Be interesting to see how much is plug and play and the mods you will need to do. Good luck with it.[/QUOTE]
When i converted my car to a gt3 i welded in studs to installe the 997 left and right large panels. I figured its time to add the remaining pieces. I think i will have to make a couple alterations to the rear most piece and add some attachment points for the rear most panel.
U can see the build hear. Sorry i cant find a good pic to post. There may be one in the tread
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-the-dust.html
Was hoping to hit the canyons but with the fires everything was closed for safety… ended up just cruising around and snapping this pic near Dockweiler beach… sadly that’s not coastal fog, but smoke from the Palisades fires.
I'm old too. My wife's last 3 or 4 cars have had backup cameras but I've never had one in any of my cars. They are great,especially the ones that warn you when a car is coming from either side when they're not yet in view. It can be a challenge backing out my 996 between two SUVs in a busy parking lot. The visibility in my Cab makes it even worse.
Still waiting for the switch but the hard work has already been done (and tested). I'm going to use an eBay window button on the blank switches next to the handbrake.
Put on new pilot sport 4S tires and decided to also put on turbo hollow spoke wheels while I'm at it (bought the car with aftermarket BBS wheels on them).
My OCD couldn't stand some the vent laps being broken so got a used driver's side vent unit from eBay and replaced it. Much better. Also a good time to clean out the remaining foam in the vent area. That switch blank next to the light switch seems like a prime candidate for the spoiler switch relocation. Does anyone know if it takes the same switch as on the central console or horsehoe?
Updated the gauges. Before / after. And rerouted the mic from the PCCM+ to the OEM mic place. The gauges are obviously lighter, and really look nice in the blue interior. Originals are coded as matched to interior, but these look better.
Your new blue gauge faces look fantastic. Is it common for originals to bubble up like this? Have not seen that until now.
Porsche should really be advising that installers place the mic in that OEM location, much better place.
Over the past couple days I installed the PCCM+ clone from AliExpress. Def gives a much nicer appearance to the interior. It's hard to live without car play or android auto. Still needs a minor position adjustment.
Today I installed new coils and spark plugs from FCP Euro. All six and the crankshaft position sensor in a little less than 3 hours including clean up...Only one of the 5mm bolts got stripped. Tried and thought about a lot of ways to get it out
but ended up using a T35 and hammering it into the bolt. That one bolt had to have taken 30 min of the time. Luckily it was the middle coil and not the rear most. I did it with the mufflers on so made things a little tight.
Happy that jobs over. Next job is a transmission flush and mount refresh.
Today I finally got around to pulling out the leaking washer fluid reservoir�wow previous owner must have had one hell of a mice infestation�parts on order be here by next weekend.
If you look close you can see the teeth marks 🐭
Good!
I think the key is once you get the PCCM clone to fit and lock into the aftermarket radio cage, then INSERT it into the factory radio FRAME centered and FLUSH.
Next, pull the upper and lower tabs (radio cage) to LOCK and CENTER it into the factory frame. (It's important to lock the cage before the next step)
Then, remove the PCCM clone radio from the radio cage, BUT
leave
the radio cage centered inside the factory frame, drill 4 small holes on the sides using the radio cage's predrilled holes as guides. (as shown in the video)
This will help the radio cage sit FLUSH with the factory radio frame. That's what you want!
It's been 20+ years since we had snow stick to the ground here.
So I had to get the 996 out into it because I don't know that I'll be around 20 years from now.
The 996 did great in the snow, until I tried to pull into the garage and couldn't get traction.
Finally got it back in where it's warming up.
Snow's the best time to dick around in the fun cars, you can do anything you want with nary any tire wear and all the time in the world to react. I have to drive 6hrs out to find any.
I finally tackled my passenger window regulator yesterday after it shattered a few months ago. Next is the driver's side and another round of butyl-gluing the old vapor barrier.
I see you're in the RDU area. .... I'm in Clayton. I love your smoked rear lights. After you're done with this install, you'll have have to come teach me how to do the head unit and tranny swap!
I see you're in the RDU area. .... I'm in Clayton. I love your smoked rear lights. After you're done with this install, you'll have have to come teach me how to do the head unit and tranny swap!
I installed the garage door hack using one of the blanks in the center console by the hand brake. I used a window switch. Super easy mod to get rid of the visor or keychain garage door opener.
I haven't posted in a while but I FINALLY was able to get a motor in our Aerokit press/show car last night.
I will call this motor the "dishwasher" motor since it was literally in my dishwasher a few months ago
Also did some GT2 shift cables I had laying around:
I pressure washed the engine bay, it came out decent:
After a short test drive. I bought the car with intermix (cracked head). Unfortunately someone dumped a ton of "stop leak" in the coolant system so I will have to flush the coolant several times and likely replace some front end hoses.
Since I never drove the car I also found out it has 2nd gear pop-out so it looks like a trans rebuild will be in order as well.
--Aaron
They are Rennline. This car is new to me. My first Porsche. I hated tracking dirt on the floor mats so I bought this. I am about to send it out to have the IMS bearing replaced as a preventative measure, and have it inspected for a PCA HPDE event that I registered for in March. I am very amused by the comments though. Yeah it was tough, I thought I could just drop the engine a couple of inches to slide these in there but had to fully take it out along with the trans. But all is well because I decided to do the clutch as well. Who knew floormats would be such a hassle.
The passenger side mat looks like it isn't fitting right. If your car is a Cab and you have the Bose system, the subwoofer extends into the passenger footwell. You need to get the mats that are cut for that. Or I could be wrong.
OK, but more serious - do you like the Rennline pedals? What's the difference in "feel"? They look great, just curious if they feel totally different. Were they east to install? Looks like some drill holes in the pedals.
You are probably right. I wondered why they were doing that. Thanks. I honestly didn't realize I had a subwoofer in this car. Please don't shoot me. I did not buy this car on a whim. But I did not know about all of the different options available etc. for the 996.2 generation. I knew the engine went from 3.4 to 3.6. Unfortunately has the single row bearing which is most likely to fail. But that this car is a survivor at 66K miles. However, this would be a good time to be double sure and update the IMS bearing. And that I wanted a 3 spoke steering wheel over the 4 spoke. I wanted a manual transmission and honestly I liked the idea of a cabriolet because I've never owned a convertible. I guess I got the nicer stereo version of the car which is a plus. But it does need the PCCM upgrade as I desperately miss Apple Carplay.
They feel good to me. The car came with these. So I can't say I notice a difference. I'm a noob, I test drove more 997's than 996's. I did some research before buying this car, but there's nothing more motivating than actually owning a car that makes you go into full research mode. My driving experience with 911's is I rented a 991.1 in PDK while on a trip and that made me start seriously considering a Porsche. Then a few years later, I test drove four 997.2 cars (three in PDK, one in manual), 1 996.2 car (this one in manual with a cabriolet), 2 987.2 cars ( 1 manual, 1 automatic). I can't say that I noticed a difference in any of the manual cars as far as pedal feel versus this one. I just know that this one is my favorite because I liked the charm of it when I drove it.
I'm in Austin, TX. I just joined PCA. Surprisingly, I know one of the local leaders because I worked with him about 7 years ago. I have not yet attended any functions. But yes any advice on what to do prior to an HPDE at COTA would be great. I signed up for the novice program. Will be my first time on a track ever.
Awesome. Im in the midatlanic but will get to cota one day.
When u prep the car have them push a good brake fluid through the syatem. Personally i would use a race fluid like castol srf but its expensive and needs to be flushed yearly but u will never boil the fluid and get brake fade. Stockish pads will be fine for your first day but make sure they r new. A better pad would be a ferodo ds2500 as a semi good pad or even a 3.12 or pagid yellow as a race pad. Nothing will ruin your day faster then low confidence in your braking.
Take a deep breath before u head out and listen to your instructor as it will be very overwelming....in a good way.
Be safe and have fun
Today I made an appointment to have my AOS replaced and cylinders scoped and install new plugs. Bought the 2004 Porsche 911 Carrera Cabriolet a month ago with 53000 miles from a company in Denver Colorado and shipped to Omaha. One of the first things I did was put new tires on since the one on it were 11 years old with all kinds of cracks in the tread and side walls. No sooner I got it home; a CEL came on. P0420 (Bank 1 Sensor 2). Ran some Cal clean via the instructions in hopes to clean out the catalytic converter. Nope, the CEL came back on a few days later. Replaced the O2 sensor in position 2. It was then that I noticed a buildup of oil in the throttle body opening. I cleaned up the throttle body with some carb cleaner and then checked the oil level. Now I notice oil consumption. When I first got it, I checked the oil to see if it was burning any oil. I asked the forum about the blue smoke upon cold starts and was told that was normal. Now I notice even more blue smoke on cold starts and have almost consumed a quart of oil in 400 miles. The car has no misses, runs fine, lots of power, and doesn't smoke when driving it after initial cold startup. I've looked at the exhaust tips and have black carbon on both, but more on the left one. I read somewhere that could be an indication of bore scoring. The shop that I've made the appointment with is a small shop that does lots of German cars, mostly Mrecedes-Benz. The first thing they are going to do is scope the cylinders and replace the plugs, then the AOS. Here's hoping it's only a failed AOS and not the bore scoring. The Carfax history has shown that it has been well maintained when in Colorado but at a Jaguar dealership. Might be a Jag/Porsche dealership. Who knows. More news after 10 Feb. Fingers crossed.
The car is not a survivor. There is fallacy promoted by UK magazines that the IMSB fails early or not at all. That is 100% not true. Your IMSB is a mechanical device and subject to the same physics as anything else. You are smart to replace it as soon as you can.
There are floor mats where you can specify the cab/Bose option.
Lloyd mats is a good place to look.
Cold weather cars are more prone to bore score then southern cars just because the oil is "warmer" on start up in southern states....but this doesn't mean it doesn't happen down here. If you're not hearing a slight knock on start up I would guess it's your AOS causing the oil consumption.....but.....although it's been proven that when you have more carbon build up on the left (driver) side exhaust it's a clear indication of scoring.......keep us updated on what your Indy finds out.
Agreed. I was following the LN engineering discussions with PCA or maybe it was some other discussion. But I believe their theory was failure early at less than 20K miles was one mode and then the other mode was around 60K to 70K miles which is what they would consider to be the service life of the part. I am going to have this replaced due to my belief that even though it has gotten this far, that this is its service life interval.
I'm sure this IMS bearing has brought out the geek in many, and thus there is some data to support either theory (past xx,xxx miles you're safe or no car is safe.) If the latter, you would think in the end we would hear so much more failures happening, for I suspect (but don't know) that many many owners just don't know (again, on these forums we're a special breed of geeks, compared to the dentist that sold me his). That makes me think that the truth lies closer to the "past a certain amount of miles, you're likely to experience the same rate of failure as other like bearings (due to the quality of the bearing and packing, as opposed to the specific problems of the IMS system.
Also, to be critical, I also have to think that a business that sells a product is more likely than not to provide you reasons for you to buy their product. That much is common sense.
I slept well at Holiday Inn last night.
I've been attending the professional engine builders class at LN Engineering this week/weekend. It's great to learn from the forefather of the M9X at the epicenter for M9X development. Can't wait to get back to implement some of the things I've learned on our next engine build.
-Aaron
Aaron,
You'll learn lots from Jake & Charles.
I took both M9x & 9A1 101 classes, and a couple others from The Knowledge Gruppe..
Lots of great knowledge!
You'll learn even more.
I washed mine in preparation for a Sunday LSRPCA tour.
I also charged my GoPro cameras and installed a new front-facing mount on the windshield.
My tow-hook mount snapped on me.
ExhaustCam
Who's behind me?
Who's ahead of me?
While procrastinating on bigger projects w/ the other cars I repaired the visor mirror lid. Little epoxy putty and clamps to hold the springs in place while curing and all is well! The obsessive and compulsive need to have everything work properly is a curse...
I gave it back its rightful amber side markers today. My car might have been born in Germany, but it was raised in the US.
Gave the car a quick wash before it inevitably goes back into the garage for another month once it gets cold again.
I started seeing streaking on my drivers glass of my 2004 C4$ with 45K on the clock. This progressed to a scrunchy noise when lowering the window. Sounded like the noise described on some YTube vids signaling the failure of the blue guide tube for the cable. I followed the vids on there and yes the culprit blue tube was broken off and trapped in the cable spool. Easy enough to get to this. I had a regulator go out on passenger side at age 18 so now at 21 the other. During the separation of the motor from the WR I flipped the motor away from me instead of towards me opening it and the spool that holds the cable fell out and UNRAVELLED (and what I didn’t notice is that the cable also came off the right lower spool) I was able to wrap the cable around the spool and reinsert inside. Please note the cable is wound from the inside outward for proper routing. So i put it all back together and put the door panel back on and tested the now quiet window…yep quiet ad a sleeping baby until test up/down #3 and the baby woke up screaming..5x as loud. The cable that had jumped off I did see was now a ball of wire inside the spool. So now a new regulator was required.
I received the URO regulator…I usually would do a Porsche part but they are all now made in China…99654207504-prm…save $200
The door clips are really 1 use only…you need 9…99950758240…1.07 AtlantaperimeterPorscheonline 3.90-5.19 at dealer counter. They are the same ones sold a small box auto parts store for BMW at 2.60 but supplies are small
I got an airbag failure after re install most likely due to connection sequence error of it. It was easily cleared with the Durametric software which I’ve had since owning the car….a good purchase… while at the dealer I inquired the cost of them deactivating the light (which took 5 or 10 minutes on Durametric)1 hr at $271.00 whoa
Marking your window position can be very helpful on reinstall and will aide in adjustments back to original position and smooth operation and gaps. Good luck. Use any info as per standard risk. Good luck
Door panel removal
Remove so window goes all the way down
crossing of the cable in middle of spool
Now on to figure out a persistent 0507 idle since I installed Ultimate AOS and loss of coolant episode. I will do my third smoke test which have not revealed any vac leaks yet. Motor on!!!
I am working on various maint tasks. First, I wondered how I got the front end up to clean the radiators. I could not remember 3 months ago, this was 2nd event. Lucky, I saved screen shots of where to put jack and stands, so that I could lift the front. I am doing CV joint/rubber repairs.
I had new tires mounted on my self-refurbished(?) 8"/11" x18 rims, tire dudes had a tough time with short sidewalls. Whatever, new High-Pressure valve stems work and do not leak. Next is all the ceramic coating stuff. I will bring each wheel/tire upstairs (non-heated garage) to do each one. I'll convince "she significant other" that everybody needs to be warm for beauty treatments. Wheels look good, maybe 90%, not perfect, but not "Mona Lisa" either.
Looked at the car, not so bad, needs TLC. OK. Director cat Misha "eliminated" an intruding mouse yesterday. Good cat, does his job without being asked. He hasn't raised his price/cost in 10 years, unlike many other places, like dealers for example?
Spent 4 hours going over internet places and reviews (some RL) to order some parts and a lot of $$ tools. Oh well, I'll need the special tools again later. I never needed to goof with radiator and refill crap B4, but now it is the way the P-car is. Wheel spacers to change wheel offsets, just mathematics, NBD, just $$. Live with it.
C4S is covered nicely and it it snowbound. Four feet of plowed snow outside the door, so it is not going anywhere. Misha patrols. More parts coming in March, no real hurry. Time marches on.
YMMV
Installed new Axle nuts, cleaned up the rust from the stub ends, inspected all suspension components and found a loose lower collar on the rear Ohlins. Also installed 5mm spacers on the rear and retorqued the exhaust sleeves for the new cats installed recently.
might lower the front a tad, and then I have some other maintenance to do along with the new Green Cables from FunctionFirst to replace my numeric set.
Reprogrammed the sunroof. Works great now. One touch operation & opens all the way!
Replaced the bottom shell of the drivers mirror. Came right off when I folded the mirror in.
Did the cable adjuster mod to the driver�s window. It now drops down when I pull the handle & rolls up without stopping. Kind of feels like a temporary fix but, it�s working now.
Thanks for the information to fix my new to me 996.2 C2 manual.
Had a nice Sunday working on one of our cars.
After a shock shaft failure due to a previous owner's improper install, I am mid-process of completing a front end refresh.
Rebuilt front axles
Scrub, pressure wash, and wire wheel front undercarriage.
New Feal cartridges
Will be adding new front LCA's as well. Hoping to re-assemble sometime this week so we can put some more miles on the this one (aero kit 2000 C4).
--Aaron
Installed a 997 Shift Console with SHIFT-RIGHT Solution bearing guts. Nice upgrade, seems more crisp but I think cables would help. Likely going to leave it as it is for now. Also installed a backup camera to go along with my AliExpress unit. So far all working well. Next I need to put in the door lock assembly to prevent my window from raising without being closed and align my window a little better.
Nothing too exciting but today I replaced the broken glovebox handle . . . found one for $75 on Ebay so I was happy since the indy shop wanted $350 for part & labor. Easy 15-20 minute job, will be nice not having it fall off when I hit bumps!
Also in this picture last week I replace the CD storage unit with the storage console.
This was my dad's car so I'm enjoying getting it back in good order. No more oil leak (oil pressure sender replaced) so just a few more maintenance items to do.
Just can't stop driving it. 2,000 miles since purchase last fall, that's a lot for me! Picture from last night in front of my office. Uncommons, Las Vegas NV 😎
Picked up a stable mate for her. Wife's 986.2 S is done (will posted for sale very soon). Paid $23.5k for this little beauty. 2010 987.2 base, 65k miles, 6-speed, new water pump. Negotiated a little on the price because it's on its original clutch.
Beautiful little car.
B8 Bilstein shocks.
Cleanest mouse nest I've ever seen.
Passenger rear strut was absolutely cooked.
Replaced a lot of hardware, missed a few components I'll probably change in the future, for now it's good enough. Also, if anyone does their rear sway bar endlinks, make sure you look closely at the images as a ton of them don't have the inner bolt to counter hold as you tighten them onto either the strut, or the sway bar. Sure, they have torx slot on the end, but that doesn't help when you are threading it into a strut there's no way to ever get a torx bit into.
Looking at your photo...my understanding is the fronts have integrated bump stops. Only the rears require new ones separately (just ordered this setup myself this week).
Only those B8 that are of the upside-down or inverted type. Easily recognized by a piston 'rod' so large in diameter, a bump stop wouldn't fit over it.
Thus, what you see in the picture is correct.
@Frywalker
That brake disk however, should be on the RH side of the car. Cooling air is directed to the center of the disk and then flung outwards by the rotation of the wheel and then vented through the wheel apertures.
Interesting, I was under the impression all B6 & B8 were inverted, with the only difference being a shorter shock on the B8. 🤔 Never had seen a B8 that was not inverted.
These are my B8s awaiting install. There is no special size bump stop that fits on the fronts then, correct?
Yours pictured are not inverted and you should use either the ones that Bilstein supply for those or the ones Porsche supply for M030 lowered sports suspension.
This is what a Bilstein inverted shock looks like
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/1213179-bump-stops-on-b8.html
For more info but ignore the advice JTT was given speaking to a Bilstein tech.
Yeah I was wondering which way was which when I installed them back on, I just installed them back on the sides they came from. Have new rotors and pads on standby but they are still in decent shape.
Replacing the spoiler wall and taking her a bit retro... I came across a spoiler grill a while back and since I have always liked the look of our 993 so I am painting the spare grill satin trim black and we will see how it looks on an ocean blue car. I'm usually a stock type, but this is minor, conservative and easily reversible. Pics to come.
Removed my Numeric shifter cables in preparation for Function-First cables... Not a fun job dealing with the rubber gromet for the cables, should be worse on the reinstall.
Nice!!
my �new to me� �04 already had the targa button. I removed the horseshoe was excited to find a garage remote wired in.
However, the remote is an older �dip switch� style and does not work with my new openers. My guess is this mod was done over 10 years ago.
I have purchased a spare remote and just need to do the soldering. A local Indy is looking at it on Monday.
if they can�t, I will try to do the soldering but have never done it before.
it would be awesome if there was a service for this. I would be happy to mail the button and opener out for it.
No idea yet, still need to install.
Numeric cables were too loud for me. Pretty gnarly sounding at low speeds. The FF cables, as you can see in the photos, have more dampening and design features to reduce noise but without reducing performance.
Flushed my transmission fluid, swapped in new motor mounts, and added function first�s transmission mount kit.
the old motor mounts were really bad. I could move the center rod to the side� and it stayed there.
Old motor mounts were toast. I could easily move the center rod off to the side.
New motor mounts, fluid, and transmission mount kit! Can�t wait to drive the car again! But� it�s snowing and I don�t drive this thing when there is snow or salt. Ugh.
Did you swap out OEM cables for the numeric cables? If you did, Did you feel much of a difference?
I bought the function first shift right kit, but my current cables are in great condition, so I chose not to buy FF or numeric cables.
However, I want the best shifting possible, so am curious how your experience has been, and looking forward to hearing about the FF cables too.
yes, I went from the OEM floppy shifter and stock cables to full numeric set up. This is probably one of the single best modifications I’ve done on any car. Hard to describe how big of a difference it makes It’s just something you have to try. With that said they are super noisy so we’ll see if these new cables strike a nice balance.
This morning I put the finished headlights on! It�s been a few months and many cosmetic projects completed to get my car looking how I wanted it. The amber and stock headlights just weren�t what I wanted. I know it�s a debated topic, but I like it this way..
list of projects:
- headlight overhaul with new wiring, retrofitlab LED lights with switchbacks, painted DRL rings to limit to 4 LED output, sand, clear and PPFd lens and Variel covers.
- auto on DRLs
- black side markers converted to blinkers
- painted bumperettes
- new tail lights and I tinted the clear portion, then UV cleared the whole thing.
- tinted both 3rd brake lights with UV clear
- powerakustic single din with CarPlay
- front and read cameras
- moved spoiler switch to dash
- added garage door opener on dash
- Carrara puddle lights
- LED interior lighting
- fixed all the little things, rattles, etc.
NotSure - looks great! Remember who cares what others think, it's your car and as long as you like it who cares what others think.....I like the door lights...where did you get those from and also the radio! Looks killer!
thank you!
the puddle lights are from
https://www.myledlogo.com
these are much better than the Amazon ones. High light output and very clear.
the radio is the Power Acoustik CP-71W. Available for $150 at Walmart. It�s great and you can customize the boot screen. Mine has the Porsche emblem when it boots. Looks a bit more factory.
Those look great. I was just thinking about redoing mine. Just not sure what level of refinish I want to do with.
Today I replaced the door lock mechanism and adjusted the window. Nice to not have to worry about shutting the window with it all the way up.
Soldering isn't really that hard and a good skill to have in your toolbox. I learned it from when I was flying electric RC planes back in the day. There are a few youtube videos on how to solder a garage remote to a dash switch. On a difficulty scale of 1-10, it will be a 2.
Now, I'm thinking about adding a spoiler switch to one of the horshoe blanks (already have the spoiler switch somewhere).
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_2138_4dc5207b98a628872048d3367bafac8f61cc579c.jpeg
The key that came with my 2000 C2 was held together by duct tape and the key fob didn't work although the blade and the RFID pill still worked to start the car. I decided to replace the case and try to revive the electronics by soldering a new microswitch on.
The removal of the blade and the pill and reinstallation into a new key was pretty easy. Removing the old microswitch and soldering a new one on wasn't hard either. Unfortunately, the red light that flashes when you press the button doesn't light up even after the microswitch replacement. I'll have to wait until I get home from travel to double test that the RFID and the blade still works (no reason it shouldn't) and to to also check whether the transmitter will work to lock and unlock the key.
New key holder with RFID pill and old blade installed.
Old microswitch (black button) versus new microswitch (white button).
Replacing my headlight level sensor bracket today, it has a plastic pin that needs to be pushed through, I'm assuming a few taps with a hammer to break it through?
After buying and dismantling 4 clusters in an effort to figure out my manual swap, I�ve been selling/giving away parts and pieces.
Now need to get rid of stuff I won�t use.
Rebuilt the original C4S cluster but had to use a manual fuel/temp gauge (no shift pattern). Not sure if I want to do a full gauge face swap and try to sell�.or sell as is.
Original C4S cluster all back together.
The snow is all melted, so I took my car for a test drive after giving it fresh gear oil, new motor mounts, and a function first transmission mount insert.
What a difference. So much better!
Now for next steps, I installed the numeric shifter and am looking forward to driving it again!
Sure, I can go into more detail.
A little background. The car is an 01 996.1 that had 56k original miles on it when I got it about 8 months ago, it had been really well kept by prior owners and was in TX and/or CA it's whole life, so super clean and in really good shape.
On the Ohlins - the PPI when I got the car missed a bent control arm and corresponding leaking damper. I, nor the PO, have any idea how it happened and the car was aligned fine, which is baffling, but it was obviously about time to consider suspension rework given the age of the car and the bent arm. The car had the original stock suspension and ride height, which was fairly comfortable but a bit too high and had a bit of body roll esp compared to my lower 911SC w/ sport suspension. It wasn't awful but living in the mountains it was pretty noticeable, so I had gotten quotes to either do Bilstein w/ lowering springs or the Ohlins. Ohlins USA is local to me and I've had their products on my mountain bikes before, but I also know some folks that work there and having been in and out of their shop I was always really impressed with the attention to detail and level of engineering of their dampers. I am not as well versed in car suspension as mtb - but I ultimately decided to go that route figuring I could probably find an adjustment that worked for what I wanted. I was a little concerned and put off by some reviews here indicating that it was harsh, but I decided to risk it and I'm glad I did because those concerns were unfounded.
Compared to stock (keeping in mind they were aged dampers/spring sat this point) it was night and day. The body roll was gone, the car has much better traction on curvy roads, and strangely enough it seemed quieter (I suspect this had more to do with the arms). I had Rennpart in Winston Salem do the install and he did some bracketing to get the right setup for the road, I forget where he landed on the damper setting but I want to say it was 13 or 14 clicks from closed. It's not harsh or rough at all. Even over washboard sections or railroad tracks, it's not rough or harsh, although I gather when he was bracketing the setup he said it was easy to push the damper adjuster to a point that it was too harsh for daily use. I haven't tried myself, I just left it where he put it but overall it's a really great setup IMO. The car feels more planted and controlled with it, he said he was impressed with it also. We lowered it about an inch or so as well, about the same height as the H&R springs, so that helped also. So the takeaway is yea, they are great and feel great, but you or whoever is doing the install should spend some time setting them up. I can grab the exact damper setting he had if you'd like, but it was in range of Ohlins recommendations for street use. My only gripe is I kinda feel like for a top end suspension component rebound and compression damping should be separate adjusters, but that's kinda nitpicky, at the end of the day they feel great and I'm stoked on the result. I would caution that it's possible moving to a new setup like this might reveal problems in other suspension areas (mainly bushings), so if yours has higher mileage, use, or age then it might be worth making sure those are in good shape when you do the swap.
As for the engine, it's night and day also. Jake was really pleasant to deal with for me. It was an on the whim thing for me and an impulse that just happened to work out with the right timing. The engine is a Stage II and bumps displacement up to 3.8 from 3.4, which really feels like the way the car should've been from the start. I'm about 800 miles into it so far and it's been flawless. Again Rennpart in Winston did the install and he was great to deal with also. Driving it the engine feels a lot more lively at lower RPM ranges, compared to the stock 3.4 it feels less like you have to rev the engine higher to get power out of it, it'll sit you back in your seat if you punch it hard enough at lower RPMs. It also seems to rev faster, which I had to be careful with on the drive home in 1st in particular. It's extremely smooth and balances out really well with the car, pushing to higher RPMs and it almost feels like the engine knows no different, whereas before it felt a little less smooth as you bumped past 6k RPM. Jake has a bunch of service instructions and info, he's been really responsive whenever I had questions or needed info. The car definitely gets up and moves quicker with the new engine, but the power feels more spread out and composed, if that makes sense.
Between these two things it feels like a totally different car.
Thank you for sharing!
I for sure want to install the ohlins. I just squared away shifting and look forward to refreshing the suspension, which it needs badly at 109k. I am looking at the coil overs and a full set of bushings.
First step is researching and figuring out all the parts I need and where to purchase them.
Congratulations on the transformation of your car! The engine will feel smoother across the rev range -- but especially at higher RPMs -- because the internals have been dynamically balanced as part of the FSI Stage II build process. You're going to love that engine.
Dropped mine off to Jake last night. My 3.8 is ready to go in! Stayed in Helen, at this alpine village tourist trap. It reminds me of *******, MI. Had a great funnel cake though! Today, the long trip back home, through ATL (yuk).
2002 C2 with FSI 3.8 Stage I motor, ten days ago, dropped engine and trans. New throw out bearing, new water pump, new plugs, UAOS with track drain back and new oil fill tube. New crank position sensor, installed center radiator. 3.8 motor came out of Jake Raby�s wife�s car. Has 15K miles on motor, 205K on car. Wife wants me to sell it because she says we don�t need five 996s. Very good drivers car . Will be puttting an add in the marketplace.
Mark
Oh man! I think I'm the opposite and like the amber side markers better on my silver 996! We should have just swapped!
Any chance you're selling your old ambers?
Its funny how that is! Ill admit the oranges have their own character and both ways look great.
On the old ones, I was planning on holding on to them so i could swap back later. While I don�t think this is a collectors example, i bought it 100% stock and am keeping stuff so i could return it to that. (From what i could gather, it�s around the 68th 996 made)
Ya, I went to Helen a few times when we lived in GA. I like the mountains there, but Helen is kindof a tourist trap. I was mainly disappointed with the food, I love German food and most of the places we ate were pretty mediocre. There was one place, Bodensee I think?, on the outskirts of town that was good. The bakery was really good also. The rest of the food we ate there was kindof meh, although this was several years ago - maybe it's improved.
You'll love the engine, it is awesome. Getting my first oil change this weekend after the first 1k
Installed my new 997gt3 rear panels (back 2) to go along with the side panels. Gonna add a naca duct gor the trans cooler next week. I also added the gt2 rear cooling ducts. All of this accents the 996gt3rs rear uprights. Also rebuilt the calipers with
@Ohio Performance
kits. They fit perfecrly. Fluids and a few smalls then its rsady for the track.
I�ve been a proud 996 owner since last July. Picked up a low mileage 2002 996 C4 and have approximately $25k in the car between preventative maintenance and upgrades
maintenance
- LN engineering IMS solution
- RMS
- AOS
- Waterpump / thermostat
- CV boot
upgrades
- Ohlins Road & Track
- H&R swaybars
- performance brake pads with slotted rotors (pads are slightly noisy for my taste
- OEM carbon fiber shifter replacement for stock shifter
- Carbon fiber arm rest replacement for stock arm rests
- 997 shifter
- PCM Classic head unit
- DCT steering wheel
Car has had work done at both Goldcrest Motorsports and Wolfpen Auto in Atlanta which are excellent shops, big shoutout to Ken and Josh.
I used to have a 991.1 C4S with PDK but I really missed having a manual convertible. I have since sold the 991.1 and am enjoying this car far more? Am I an anomaly, know lots of people prefer the newer cars.
Installed OHLINS R&T�s last week. Haven�t taken for a ride because they had to order new control arms after they couldn�t get the alignment straight. I�m dying to take her for a spin!!
tech said he was starting at 15, so good to hear about your experience.
I believe what you think are compressor lines are the hydraulic lines for the QuickJack.
Only pictures I have on my phone with my car up on the QuickJack are 5 years old. (Car has changed significantly in the last 5 years. So has the wall behind it.)
But since I like garage pics, and always like suggestions for improving my setup, here's more about my compressor lines.
My compressor hoses are both red and blue and they connect to reels with the same color hoses:
Someday I'd like to replace them with copper.
But for now, the hoses are doing a great job.
I do bleed the pressure from the hoses after finishing jobs so the hoses do not constantly have pressure when not in use.
Front is roughly 4.0* of camber and 3mm of positive toe total (1.5mm out per side).
Rear is 2.7* of camber and 4mm of negatibe toe total (m in per side)
For the track all the front tires i have run like the camber in front and i backed the rear down .3 because the insides were still too worn. I dont drive enough street miles to care about the wear and i dont mind the darty front end from being toe out.
I got mine from Suncoast, it�s a SOP item so it�ll be at my house by the time I leave Thailand next week. Here�s the link.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99XRBHW.html
im thinking of getting one of these and talking to Jake. Can you please share your experience, pics, selection process and if you considered any other engine builders?
Talking, and working, with Jake has been a pleasure so far. I dont have pics yet, but, they will be coming. He answered all of my (dumb) questions, told me about the process, including info on the donor block. I had purchased a lot of parts prior, because I thought I might do some minor work with another shop. Jake is very selective about parts based on years of experience. Fortunately, many of those could be used. Some he just refused based on previous experience. Which is fine because I want perfection, and reliability. After a very long drive, I met Jake at his shop as scheduled,, and we quickly went over a few things. I wished I could stay longer but my wife was cranky from the drive. Jake keeps me informed throughout the process using his messaging system. It looks like it will be completed on time, as promised. I did consider Slakker, but, but the masses (agreeably) say otherwise. Jake told me he was doing a Stage 2, and I didnt put up a fight!
We focus on educating our customers so they can make informed decisions and get the engine that best suits their goals, priorities, and budget. I suppose that just resonates with a different 'masses' than the ones you're referring to.
We are way too busy to be offended. Good luck with your new build. These are amazing cars and an upgraded engine is one of the best ways to enjoy them.
i have solid pucks in the lower control arm and they can rotate. This allows the front tire to move foward or rearward to adjust castor. I cant really measure it when using the strings. I usually get a computerized alignment if i do major front end work.
P-car feels solid and stout after a thorough suspension refresh (cross posting the below photo of the install from my thread).
Grabbed coffee & dropped off yesterday with Porsche Classic for alignment. They quoted me $4,000. At least it was coupon day.
Bradley
I just had mine done. I put down a deposit in September and got the engine in December. I gather he schedules around the engines he has, so yours might be shorter or longer. Jake was great to deal with. He's been a great resource and really helpful. I'd reach out to him sooner rather than later if you are interested, timelines can vary. He is a great person to deal with IMO.
I had mine installed by an installer, Rennpart in Winston Salem (I think he does some work at VIR in VA too), who was great also. Aaron is really passionate about this generation 911 and has been immensely helpful to me, I strongly recommend him also to anyone who can make it there. The installer will take some parts off your engine and reuse them, others will come fully new. I ended up doing full new injectors and a few other minor things, but be prepared that some things may just need replaced (fuel pumps, hoses, etc) during the build. Jake will interact with the installer and the installer will do some various checks on your engine also.
If you live in a hot climate I'd suggest a 3rd radiator also, if one isn't already in place.
My car feels great and the engine is just so smooth and drives amazing. I am planning on having the 3rd radiator put in this month and replacing the short shifter with a normal throw shifter. I'm hoping to get Fister mufflers on and sometime down the line Jakes pipe and headers. I'm just waiting to hear from Fister if anything unique is required for the 3.8 before I commit. I have a few interior things too, I'd really like sport seats, but I'd also like PCCM+ - but I have the center console delete. I'm gonna try to draw a mount to move the HVAC controls somewhere else but we'll see how it works out.
I didn't consider anyone else. I was aware of what Hartech was doing in the UK but was not aware there was a US company doing the same thing until a few weeks ago. I didn't interact with them at all, so I can't speak to what they are or aren't doing. FSI from what i can tell has a really good track record for reliability, Jake was very diligent about answering all of my questions even some that weren't relevant, and doing the research I did on him/FSI, I felt like it was a good investment for what I wanted out of the car. That's not to knock the other folks - I just didn't feel the need to explore other options. That said, I am aware of some smaller engine builders that have had a history of problems, unless I was in an urgent need to swap or fix something (tbh this is what I was trying to avoid) - I'd probably go with an established builder who only focuses on these engines. Don't be afraid to ask for references.
Let me revisit this one last time and I�ll leave it alone. While there are some good dudes who run his engines, like
@TexSquirrel
and
@168Sierra
whom I�ve interacted with several times but if there�s a group of guys who will absolutely crap on other builders without really knowing anything� it�ll generally be FSI guys. I was humbled by Charles regarding posts being deleted when LN IMS� failed, to which he responded to me directly, and realized I was incorrect so I�ve made it a point to be transparent now.
Are they something to be proud of? Absolutely! Especially the guys who track and do more than take their cars out for leisurely drives. It�s really hard to say anything negative about what Jake does because he does it so well and I don�t think there�s very much of a counter argument here. Just think that after 26 years of the M96 enhancements, are we really going to argue the pedigree of Hartech? Yes Slakker is doing the work under the tutelage of Hartech.
Just embrace the options available now and I�d love to see a head to head comparison between a 4.1 Slakker and 4.2 FSI Stage X(no idea what that would be hence the �X�). This isn�t directed to TheRedDevil in any way, just quoted him for recency and nothing else.
Thats great feedback thank you.
sounds like we have a similar road map for our cars. I am also going to do an exhaust upgrade and was thinking about fister as well. My car came with fabspeed cats but the exhaust was not done. I�ve heard some not so good things about fan speed quality from a few shops now so looking in another direction.
I�ve done some interior things such as PCCM+ but also want to replace the stock seats with either 997 sport seats or aftermarket. Also have been doing some aesthetic things such as adding carbon fiber and going to get a leather wrapped radio trim piece that goes around the infotainment system. What seats are you looking at?
engine is certainly on the list for later this year. I was about to get one in the next month - Jake happened to have one finishing up production at the time I reached out but I got some negative impact on my work bonus this year so having to wait til closer to end of the year
Just to be clear, my comments were in no way meant to disparage Hartech or
Slakker. In fact, the former is what got me thinking about doing this in the first place as I found a video about the swap on a car done in the UK, then I found FSI and learned about Jake. I'm kinda new to 996s so that seeded the thought.
The only caution I gave about other builders was to be careful who you use and get references and this is a general statement about, well, everything. I mention this because I know of a local guy with a M96 or M97 (idr which) who had a local builder rebuild his engine and it started having a lot of issues, then the builder vanished and left him hanging. There are a lot of small (and I'm not calling Hartech or Slakker small builders, I'm referring to smaller/lesser known shops) builders doing great work and standing behind what they are doing, but I would always look or ask for references. This isn't related to Slakker or Hartech in any way, just a general statement, and I followed my own advice when asking around about FSI engines. I have no experience with the latter two so I am not commenting on them at all, if it was taken that way then I apologize.
The guy I bought my 996 from has a set of matching OEM sport seats. I'm kinda 50/50 if I want to do it or not, a lot will depend how expensive my 911SCs trip to the wrench this week is. The SC is having some starting issues and it needs a few things addressed before the warmer weather sets in. The other changes to my 996 will also take priority, so we'll see.
I'm not too keen on making the car too 'aggressive' and I like the OEM sport seats, but it's low on the priority list at the moment. I would really like PCCM+ and that'd be a day one change but I gotta see if I can relocate the HVAC controls and retain the center console delete, I'm going to see if I can draw a mount and print it out that doesn't look like turd. The PO replaced the speakers too i believe, so I gotta make sure they are compatible.
are you thinking 996 oem sport seats or a later generation?
I�ve been eying these, asking my Indy how confident they feel about installing 997 seats and getting the electronics to work, if they can do it I would spring for these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/32635020654...yABEgKk9_D_BwE
[QUOTE=nprest2;19937235]are you thinking 996 oem sport seats or a later generation?/QUOTE]
OEM 996, so manual except the back. I just don't want to deal with electrical gremlins. I gather there is a lot of work involved to get others in and I'd honestly rather just keep it as close to simple/usable as possible. I know some have gotten it to work, though.
what would you have in mind: I looked at Recaros and from what I saw they won�t go as far back as oem seats (I�m 6�2 and need the leg room) and thought they don�t sit as low either
that�s good intel, those were the aftermarket seats I was recommended. I�m coming into this car from a 991.1 C4S I sold to keep this car (I like the 996 better, bet they�d kill me in the 991 forums) and really liked the 18-way sports seats I had in there. Based on some research it felt the 997 sports seats would be the best option and it�s possible to get electronics to work which Indy will attempt to install. But certainly very open to other ideas. For purposes of budget I�d be fine to spend 5-6k on seats, besides the wheel and shifter it�s what you interact with the most
I just went from a '03 Targa to 991.2 GTS with the 18-way seats. I have a set of GT3 Euro Buckets that I had in my Targa that will be available soon. Just have to remove them, I'm 6'-4" 200 lbs.
The difference between the two cars (996 and 991.2 with PDK) are worlds apart. Modern day compared to old school. Different experiences for sure.
please keep me posted would be interested in checking them out. Are they pretty comfortable for daily driving?
yeah for sure I love the old school rawness.
I love how small this car is also. I just need the engine upgrade!
daily drive�maybe? Getting in them It takes a bit of practice, but easy once you�re use to it. Getting out, same. Once in, they are super comfortable to me. Transforming the driving experience.😎
Had a bit of fun with my new listing (I'm a real estate agent with Sotheby's) and included the 911 as a staging prop. Borrowed my friend's red jack and picked up a container of Porsche Classic Motor Oil as well to complete
the look
after the epoxy floor was completed. Never know what might resonate with someone, especially in an area with a thriving Porsche community.
It uses a transformer that plugs into 110v. The light switch is via two contacts, one attached to the door and the other to the rail. When the door fully opens, the contacts complete the circuit and lights come on.
https://garagedoorlighting.com
The kit is complete and I love it BUT I rarely keep my door open now because my garage is air conditioned. My next upgrade would be a roll down screen.
https:/www.lifestylescreens.com/Lifestyle_Screens_Consumer_Brochure_REVISED_w_Black_Frame.pdf
Oil
change!
Ordered my oil through LN engineering. They sent plenty extra, the right filter, and I ordered some fuel additives from them.
Center console delete
(will eventually add carpet to the 3D printed piece) and I added Bluetooth to the factory radio.
I love the dash with the the console delete. Feels more �classic.� I also removed the owners manual holder. Clean lines!
lol! it�s oiled to the appropriate amount. When I ordered it from LN engineering, they sent 12.
So either I�m good for any oil consumption, or I have half my next oil change already.
Most of the garages I see on RL look like "Modern Home Show" specials, near zero other stuff, showcase places, meaning $$$$$. My medium & small garage places are crammed with tools, hydraulic woodsplitter, pedal-bikes, ATV w/snowplow, Ural motorcycle, benches with half-finished projects, parts boxes, drill press, 12-ton press, wood table & miter saws, AC welder, "saved" lumber pieces, fishing rods, stuff & folding boat, air compressor, freezer, gun safe, mounted HD vice, grinding/polish/wire wheel machine, garden & irrigation parts/pieces, and a lot of misc. stuff. Not to mention Pcar on jackstands, (CV Joints, water pump/LTT, radiator cleaning) floor jacks, MC jack, and 4WD diesel truck... I would have to build a whole shop or something to get my garages to look so pristine. sigh...
YMMV
I here you.
When I did the early retirement thing I moved to what had been a place I was renting out but had never lived in myself in spite of owning it for over ten years. I decided that I was going to make it into a 'nice' garage like I had always wanted my whole life. It was supposed to be done last June so I'm now nine months behind schedule.
I have a second garage a few miles away that will be the 'junky' garage
.
Current status of the 'nice' garage at 9 months behind schedule. I know it seems pathetic but there was a ton of demo and electrical that had to be done.
The 'junky' garage.
I was fortunate to buy my house as a new construction and that allowed me to finish a section of the house at a time. Having no kids and never being married helps. My GF thinks I�m ridiculous, she�s not wrong, but my house AC took a crap at 11pm last year and I slept in my clean air conditioned garage� on an inflatable mattress next to my 996.
GF�s are more understanding than wives apparently
.
If I took that long to finish construction, I�d be sleeping in the garage EVERY night!
Not by choice though
.
this one is a fixed wing that doesn�t go up/down based on speed right?
I think this is the one offered on suncoast
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...0aAgr8EALw_wcB
costs a pretty penny
Sort of a before and after. My original seats had seen better days. The seat of the drivers side had a 4-5 inch slice and they just weren�t supportive and the seating position was not great. Swapped in a set of 987 Cayman seats that I got for a steal. Heaters work and everything. Might be the best mod I�ve ever done on a car. These seats are a huge improvement in every way.
Replaced the flexible gaiter and failed CHMSL bulbs in the retractable spoiler. However several tabs on the CHMSL housing were broken, so I decided on Sylvania LED's and while the housing would still hold together, because most of the tabs were compromised, I decided to seal the unit. I also reinforced the tabs holding the bulb busses and contacts with epoxy. Hopefully by using quality LED's this will be a long-term fix. Side benefit is the LED's are much brighter and draw less power and produce less heat....probably good for 26 y/o plastic. And, since I was given a spoiler grille, I painted the spare satin trim black and installed it for a subtle and easily reversible retro look. I like it and it now matches our 993 and 992.
LEDS look good and the satin black looks great. I need to tackle the gaiter and I might swap out the leds and find an extra grille to try the satin black on.
The Sylvania LEDs are polarized, so double check before you zip it all back together. The also have really small (to my old guy eyes) red dots on the + contact and the + feed is the lower set of contacts in the housing...but please reconfirm. The black grill just doesnt photograph well on a dark car, but looks good. I think it would look fantastic on a white or silver car, maybe w/ the retro side lettering.
Does anyone know if it�s possible to turn a C4 narrow body rear into a C4S rear replica with the long tail light? I know that the C4s bumper won�t work given it�s for wide body but curious if anyone has seen an aftermarket solution for this or any other options
it�s called a heckblende. I think people have made more significant modifications to add one to a c4 but this company makes a reflector sticker
https://www.acromann.com/product_inf...mvb0dlfjng76r0
I used Sylvania 168R LED's. They are much brighter yet only draw ~.6 watts. I also replaced the tail/stop lamps and rear fog lamps with Phillips 1157 and 1156 respectively, same for the 993 and Boxster S. To make a long story short, I replaced most of the running lights in the fun fleet with quality LEDS from Phillips, Sylvania and United Pacific. I made sure to only use replacements that appeared completely stock except for brighter (and quicker) stop lamps; no flicker, points of light, etc. I settled on these three brands after some research and trial and error. All are available from brick and mortar auto stores as well as factory stores on Amazon.
For the 996, the LEDs are slightly larger than the incandescent and a tight fit in the bulb holes, but they do fit. You could also take some sandpaper around your finger and open the holes just a little, like under 1mm.
LEDS are a Godsend on old English vehicles with wire smoking 35 amp alternators.
I�ve wonder what these would look like installed. Does the silver piece thread into the hole? Looks like the top plug should be a bit larger to cover the rubber boot impression in the leather.
The silver piece threads into the hole once you remove the outer collar mount. I could probably use a heat gun to get the leather to comply and remove the ridge.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_6646_aaa165385b2cab42b46e6b948e60b65af5dcb707.jpeg
Back from FSI, Stage 2. Here are my impressions after just 50 miles on break-in tune. First, Jake was amazing to work with. He kept a constant line of communication throughout the build. When started, it almostly immediately smoothed out. A little smoke, but normal since it had a transplant. It sounds different. A little throatier. While I was driving, and bringing up to temp, the engine just felt "happy". No fuel jerkiness, it felt light on its feet. If you can understand. Its a Tip, so as it automatically went through gears, it felt seamless, and polished. Jake suggests getting on it a little, and just drive and enjoy. I took a backroad through horse country and had a little fun with the paddles on my custom wheel. It was shocking how quickly this revved to 6000. Grin, and giggle enducing. It was nighttime, the roads were clear. I felt like I was in a Magnus production. I just ripped around for awhile listening to that glorious engine sing, and thought its worth every gold-plated penny. Putting the breakin miles on will be easy. Putting away in storage will be difficult. Thank you Jake.
Stole a few minutes in the garage today; put the Turbonite badge on and started refreshing the exhaust tips. First step, black exhaust paint on the inside, next up is a re-polish.
Removed the hard top, then cleaned the soft top and treated with Porsche Cabriolet Top Protectant and Waterproofer. It looks much better now and hopefully the water will bead up on the top now.
It's not a dye but appears to have refreshed the top. It is advised to mask everything off. It felt more like spaying a clearcoat than a treatment. Here is a PCA video on the subject,
You Tube
Yes, overspray from the protectant will get all over everything. If you don't mask, you would have to do additional cleaning of all the other surfaces. Ask me how I know. Maybe the question is, which is more work, masking for overspray, or repolishing and waxing?
I removed my front wheel arch liners to inspect the lower front wings and sill areas as I believe they can be a trouble spot for rust, especially here in the UK.
I was very pleasantly surprised (delighted) with what I found, so decided to steam clean and re-protect / detail whilst I had access, using plenty of cavity wax in the process.
Messy, but very satisfying.
Sent your thread and car photos to three of my friends that have the affliction and without a 996 don't know what they are missing. It's such a great example.
And
this
is precisely why the greater car community says that Porsche enthusiasts are different. On a whole 'nother level. 😂
What's "OK" for a Porsche enthusiast would be considered "excellent" by everyone else. And what's "pretty good condition" for a Porsche enthusiast would be "pristine" or "like new" by everyone else.
Removed the tint from rear and quarter windows.
No idea how long it�s been on. I�m pretty sure the adhesive used was outlawed during the last years of the Clinton administration.
Got the PCCM Plus installed over the weekend. I installed the microphone in the stock microphone location rather than on top of the steering column as Porsche directs. The GPS antenna fit perfectly under the cover on the dash. I modified my original single DIN trim to fit the double DIN opening, and reused 2 sections of the plastic removed to add "ears" to the top opening for the new brackets to attach to. I was not aware of all of the radio options available, and got tripped up over which steps applied to my car, but the sound is great now.
Phew, I'm glad it's not just me then. I now feel less ashamed to show how I detailed and refined my rear crash bar to a nice satin finish before covering it up for 'the next guy'.
Well done. I do the same thing -- clean the hell out of areas people will never see and make them absolutely perfect. When I did a PCA concours, the judges initially dismissed the car seeing some rock chips (which I'm not concerned about because I value driving the car as much as possible over anything else), but then were pretty shocked the closer he looked (and they took CLOSE). Many cars are "5 footers" -- look great from a bit of a distance -- mine's the opposite, the closer you look at the details, the better it looks.
I don't really care for PCA concours because they don't care at all about originality (at least in our region, just care that any modification looks appropriate and not gaudy), so I never do PCA concours events, but I still detail the living crap out of every detail when I have something apart. It just feels good, and it seems like things work better when they've been taken care of to that level (thought that part may be imaginary more times than not
).
You guys sound like the fellow who sold me the lift. He said that everything has to be *perfect* or else he's not satisfied. He had a bit of rust starting at a gas door hinge -- you couldn't see it at all with the door closed -- and he had it fixed. But the knowledge of its having been there at one time was too much for him to bear, and he sold the car.
I'm more of a 10- or even 20-footer myself. The concours judges' pencils would have to be resharpened after they finished with one of my cars! That said, I do clean whatever I take off the car before I put it back on. But I don't for example, scrub the cosmolene off the fender liners.
I actually did that once when I was in high school -- spotted a bit of rust and sold a car I really loved and had put a ton of work into -- and replaced it with a car that seemed like it would be cool but I never really even liked once I had it.
I still regret that move many decades later -- cured me of that issue though.
LOL - this is genuinely hilarious.
I wouldn't do that at all. I always preserve what is supposed to be there. Dry ice cleaning has no appeal to me, even though I'm a clean freak. One of the concours judges suggested that I print a new options sticker under the frunk because mine wasn't perfect -- recreating an original factory id sticker would get you incarcerated in some concours
-- that's when I knew for sure these events weren't for me.
.
I did a few PCA Parade concours and generally cleaned the heck out of any car. The last time around was a Parade 4th place for a black '74 Carrera. I was gorgeous. However, open the garage door, take car out, and it immediately attracted dirt, bugs, dust, anything. Looked like hell (to me) so back in garage. I was so tired of keeping it concours I didn't drive it at all. I traded it for a turbo of any color except red, black, or silver. I don't do "concours" anymore.
On 996, I'll clean whatever I happen to be working on to a P-car "reasonable" level. On to the next thing. The car got 4 unsolicited compliments from total strangers at gas station after driving 1100 miles to get it home - uncleaned, some bugs, etc. It was dirty and people still loved it, including me.
YMMV
How do you like the Falken tires?
I put a set on the M5 and then it failed SMOG before I could really try them out. I got the car to pass SMOG after sitting for two years and other than than a car show last weekend, I still haven't had a chance to
really
drive the car.
They've been pretty good. Stiff sidewall and good feedback with sharp turn in. Pretty hard to find the limit of grip with AWD on the street/on-ramps. After 5k and an aggressive alignment the fronts are wearing very well (-2.5 camber) but the rears at (-2.0) are showing signs in inner wear and overall wear. Probably need to be replaced in the next 2500 miles.
Installed a custom steering wheel I purchased from Germany via ebay . I bought it over a year ago and honestly forgot about it . Oops 😬 . Anyway I love the way it feels and looks . Flat bottom gives a little more legroom and the centering ring is an added bonus . I am slowly blending my sea of gray interior to a blend of gray and black . Everything black so far also has red stitching . So there is a method to my madness 😆 .
You're definitely
not
alone... I would be ashamed to admit how many hours I've spent under my engine ridding the engine of the awful brown cosmoline buildup. Actually just ordered various sandpapers to remove the corrosion on the exhaust manifolds, lol.
Nice one - mine's up on Quick Jacks whilst I go on a cleaning frenzy. I'm just in the process of pulling the front struts to clean up the shock bodies properly, as the finish is failing a letting the side down.
I treated myself to a steam cleaner the other day and boy, what a game changer!
Picked it up yesterday from the shop after getting the dreaded ims done. Clutch flywheel rms and aos was done while it was there.
the clutch had just started to have a little slippage so it was time to get it all done. Original bearing looks perfect.
also ordered an x pipe because it seems like the stock cat is starting to go.
Yes, do it do it.
Received a package of assorted sandpaper from Amazon tonight and went to work. Love the result. ✨ Only did the passenger side tonight, you can see the comparison with the unpolished side in the last photo. Nice to see a combination of the sand paper can remove the rust at the top of the headers where they meet the motor.Now I have to go back and re-do the rest of the exhaust that until now I thought looked presentable. 😬
I�m a master procrastinator unfortunately. I have alot of scuff pads in various textures I use for gun smithing that I�ll try along with the aluminum safe Simple Green. Looks like I�m entering my car for a local PCA event.
After replacing the faulty/rich-at-idle aftermarket "blue" injectors that LN used to sell with genuine OEM, I got the car back on the road after 6 months. First order of business was doing a drive cycle to ready all the systems for emissions testing. The car passed with flying colors, except the technician aborted the test because he "couldn't find third gear".
I guess the 997 shifter and Function First ball bearing bushings were too notchy/tight for him. I ended up sitting in the passenger seat and shifting the gears for him during the dyno test. Silly, but I'm glad it's over with.
I got back home and did an oil change—and had a mild heart attack. At first glance, I thought I saw some coolant intermix, but then I remembered I threw in some Ceratec during the last oil change. Enough pretend chemistry for me, though. I switched to DT40 with this oil change.
I just finished first wash/wax after having all 4 rims refinished by Sac Rim Pros. Now it's time to take the Targa for a nice drive thru the Sierra Foothills.
Noticed temps were creeping up a little after a long drive and in traffic. One of the fan resistors had blown, so soldered in a new one from AliExpress. Easy enough job to do.
Also have my Piwis 3 all set up so changed the coding for my locks. They now lock at 5kmhr, before they didn't.
Piwis also showed me a few fault codes, look like a dirty or failing maf sensor so will pop a new one in shortly.
Today before the rains come cleaned the Sport Classic wheels again, I love the look but they are a pain to keep looking nice, added my personalized tag 😀
Rich
I had these guys do the wheels on this car 3 years ago for 100 a piece, they still do great prices and do wheels at 125 a piece and they also store the car and do wheel dismount and mounting and balance for 25 more a wheel.
Powder Coat Sale! | Kwicksilver Wheel Repair of Sacramento
Hello!
Not exatly what I did today, but what I did during the winter.
I�m new to the Porsche world with my new to me 996. It�s my first Porsche and I bought it in November.
Starting point (pictures from auction site):
I drove the car for about 500 km before it went in to the garage for winter. Just barely before first snow.
During the winter I did full service for the car including spark plugs, fuel filter, coolant etc.
Old fuel filter was original
After the booring stuff it was time to make the car more like my own. I did like how the car was driving and feeling on the road but I have this huge problem that I can�t keep anything stock�
Last weekend I finally got to the fun part of adding parts.
Recipe:
1. Turbo Twists with Toyo R888R 225/40r18 and 295/30r18
2. Bilstein B8 + H&R lowering springs
3. Phoneholder with MagSafe charger (prototype, my own design)
4. Gundo/Fister hack (at this point I don�t know which on is correct term)
Car had Koni rear shocks and original fronts. Weird(?)
Tires are used and made in 2017 and I�ll order new ones next month or so. These did good job as as fitment guide for now but I want to have good new ones. Probably still going for the R888R.
Some of you might think that you can�t fit those tires and wheels to narrow body car. And that would be correct. Atleast if you are not ready to do some adjustments to your rear fenders
Before:
I did take my time and heated the rear arch with heatgun very carefully and added some fender roller to the car.
And it worked out good. No paint chipping or cracking and now tires find their way in to the fender.
Front wheels got 21mm spacer that I borrowed from a friend to make them stand out like the rears. Good fitment is key to good looking car!
Gundo/Fister that I did already in january. Makes the car sound perfect for my liking. Not loud at all when cruising but lets out enough sound with spirited driving. If you are going to diy this too, I suggest to weld the pipe to other side and use pipe with steeper bend.
(yes, I have horrible mess in the garage)
Phone charger/holder is still prototype and final adjustments are made now (so this is after all about stuff happening today). Final version will be black and printed from abs. This one is from pla and it could possibly melt/disform during the summer.
I wired usb c charging port behind the head unit and the charger is just normal MagSafe. Lets see if this actually has enough force to keep the phone attached when driving.
For the grande finale here are few pics of the car now with the new suspension and wheels:
Still few things to do like alignment, removing the stripe from roof and rear and polish. For this summer I need to make temporary fix for the front bumper that got hit to the lift post/arm� Proper fixing like aero/gt3 bumper for next winter
This was my start for this hobby as new 911/996 owner.
Cheers from Finland!
I finished the process of restoring my original front shock absorber bodies that were one of the only parts of the car to suffer corrosion.
Started like this, a photo taken after I finally released the clamp bolf from it's galvanically welded home.
But ended up like this after a few days...
Ill be the ying to your guys yang......havent washed it since it was on the track 2 weeks ago and im at breakfest waiting for the rain to stop so i dont slide off the road going home on the nt-01s at 52*.
At least its washed off now.
I�ve used Powerstop Z23 ceramic pads on a couple cars now and they do a great job of keeping the dust down and are cheap on Amazon. The bite feels similar to the stock or textar. Perfect for spirited street driving.
I washed mine the same way today.
It was a bit sketchy on the freeway today in the rain so I guess it�s time to replace my rear tires.(PS4S)
They made it almost 10,000 miles.
Sold the car on Friday AM. New owner flew in from Florida and was already halfway across the country in Texas as of this AM. Bittersweet but it happened so fast and easily I don't even feel that its gone yet
Last photo from my driveway:
Somewhere in Texas:
That 996 of yours is immaculate. I�m not surprised the new owner was willing to fly across the country for it.
You did good work!
I can�t wait to see what you�ll do with your 997.
Sounds like what I did. Bought it off of PCA classifieds, flew into Indianapolis and drove home to central Virginia.
Also, used an escrow service so if the car wasn't as advertised I could just get back on a plane and head home.
Is there a product you recommend for protection? Outside of the Southern CA marine layer, the car lives in the high desert with next to no humidity.
Your 4S was amazing. No surprise it went so fast.
Thanks guys, sad to move on but I�ll stick around and continue to follow what you all do. Once a 996 always a 996
I didn�t list it, I just made a comment on a post where someone was looking for a 9964S and I received dozens of responses from people who saw it.
You should be fine then. In short, the only coating would be zinc plating or similar. No protective coating other than ceramic would stand up to the temps.
In the UK, the aftermarket ones have a more robust zinc coating than the factory Porsche item.
Therapy drive. Just back from 5 weeks in Thailand, and then the crazy last week. I don't know how TheChunk can make it 7 months on a boat. These cars are so great when they are sorted. Can I take my therapy car on the plane with me?
Not many next steps for this car. I have new/old seats to replace my 120k mile seats. These have 39k and are from a fellow PCA member. I'm waiting on wiring connectors to change over from manual to the motor driven seat. I also have a set of Apex SM10's that need tires. I'm having trouble deciding what tires to buy. I have PS4S on the car now, which I really like. Maybe I'll put the choices on a dart board and see which one I hit the most.
The other next thing to learn is pressure washing and foam cannons. Hope I don't strip the paint. Is there a Best Known Method thread covering pressure washers? I haven't searched yet. I've watched a bunch of youtubes, so should be OK.
Yep, just don't use the pressure head with the rotating inner nozzle (will take paint off etc) and just keep your distance with it. I use mine to foam and rinse. Anything that needs getting off should be done with a soft mitt or similar but I don't use the pressure to remove hard baked on grime as such.
Thanks! My current plan is to use the prewash to loosen stuff, rinse, then soap with the pH neutral soap, then microfiber mitt wipe, then rinse again. One question is how safe these soaps are for the convertible top. I currently use the 303 convertible top cleaner. Need to search around more.
bought a set of 18� turbo twists from classifieds here to replace existing sport classic wheels and a new set of Pilot Sport 4S tires to replace existing Contis
When I get around to it I�ll be cleaning my Sport Classics and posting them on classifieds here
new wheels
Prior wheels
I gave up trying to find the parts to repair my retractable wing. Since I had been toying with the idea of a ducktail I went ahead and ordered one from here:
www.Directsalesanddesign.com
. I installed it today. Install went without any drama. Rewiring the harness to prevent dash alerts was also straightforward. I am very happy with the results. I will keep the original and try to effect repairs over time.
Had the water pump and thermostat proactively replaced by a shop. I bought the parts for a good price a few years ago from a Rennlister who had sold his car. I did the job myself about 10 year ago but now I'm too old for that kind of fun.
wow that�s a great find and looking amazing. Love that these guys have a painted option as well, I didn�t love the idea of paying a body shop to paint it. Been looking at ducktails for a while, this looks better than stock and love the sport classic looks
Added TopGear 200 cell cats to the 01 C4 this week. Ordered them from the UK.....not well known here in the States but used a lot in EU. They are very nicely pieces. No issues with fitment and they sound much better then the stock cats. Weight less than half of the stockers as well. Would recommend them to anyone!
I think it's great that everyone has different tastes in wheels. When I first bought my car I did exactly the
opposite
of you. It came with Twists that I couldn't get off fast enough to replace with the Sport Classics.
Before & after (it actually has BBS RS-GTs on it now).
Evoroadster and Chunk, those ducktails look amazing! Painted or naked, I love the look.
Viper1000, the cats look great. The underside of your car is way too clean....I'm jealous.
Installed some Dynamat to soften the Numeric cable noise. Tested out this morning and it's an improvement with partial throttle up to 4~5K - didn't rev higher as the car wasn't fully warmed up. I'll fully explore the full RPM range next week during my commute to work.
Installed the Becker AutoSound Bluetooth module to the CDR220 using the male plug for the stock telephone connector for a no tap or splice install. Pleasantly surprised by the sound quality through the recently replaced stock radio, but I had low expectations. Been doing longer droves in the car and local broadcast radio just isn't what it used to be... Nice product. Will probably add to Boxster S.
When I was researching shift solutions I saw several posts claiming that Numeric cables didn't add noise to the cabin. I did what you did, although not the inside of the console; it wasn't enough and the cables came out. I look forward to hearing (ha-ha) how it goes for you. Shift Right sells cables now...
If this doesn't fully do the trick, I'd consider those new
Function First cables
. They look like answer.
[EDIT] In fact, if they were available last year, I would have gone that route.
Did an oil and filter change, split the filter open and no sparklies or plastic so all good.
Changed to a 10w50 Penrite oil (Aus/NZ) which will match nicely with a deep sump and 997 oil returns when i add them later.
Also went on a local club drive, some fast back roads followed by lunch.
I�m with DeJeeper. I would get kicked out of PCA if I tried to enter my car.
What is the average score? I can�t believe your car was the worst one there.
Catch up entry since I can't seem to upload pictures when it matters most (i.e. after I just did the job). Purchased my 2004 C4S, 118,000km ,in December. In order of work done:
* December: oil change; brake fluid flush; lots of interior leather work to freshen up.
* December: PCCM+ installed;
* January: replaced hood struts. No more getting stabbed in the back!
* Jan/Feb: replaced the dials background. OEM were dark blue-black, went with a blue color that really pops when the sun hits them.
* February: new battery
* March: Spacers 5mm front 10mm rear and fresh Michelin PS2 N tires, and new lugs.
* April: Wheel alignment
* April: changed the windshield weather strip (the issue is really, as I discovered, the plastic channel, but I'm not ready to have the windshield pulled to fix that!)
* April: Cleaned the radiators (yuck!) which now tells me why my A/C is not functional (signs of leak on the left). Changed the lip, from a badly chewed up C4S to a brand new Turbo lip, night and day
To do:
- transmission and diff oil change (easy self job)
- fix the AC issue
- water pump change (strictly preventative)
- change oil pressure sender (I get the occasional error that goes away quickly)
So I had zero expectations in placing, pretty much figured I�d just enter my car as it sits 90% of the time. The car was tracked by myself and the previous owner and has some chips, the rear bumper has some bruises but nothing crazy. I was surprised how many people were drawn to my car as it was in the modified class� so much so that it was called an Outlaw car. One of the judges went as far as saying he�s never seen another 996/997 with full leather and full carbon in Slate. I think I was asked a dozen times if my car was an original Slate car or if it was repainted.
I lost to a car that was 100% bone stock with the exception of wheels, Intake and a ton of stickers. It was a tip Sonder build and otherwise undesirable in every aspect but man was it clean.. 20k mile car.
� New LCAs
� New Forward Arms
� New OEM Exhaust clamps (wet sanded and polished beforehand)
� Alignment
� New Engine Mounts (Rein)
� New OEM Transmission mount
� Oil change Porsche 996 Classic w/ Liqui Moly MoS2
At 45k miles this car now feels thoroughly refreshed after installing B8s and Eibach springs last month. Technician showed me the transmission mount he pulled out, and I was very surprised to see how much it was sagging at this mileage. Engine mounts were original and shot. LCAs for the most part where not bad, but you can feel the difference in turn in. I would say 75% of the play in shifting slop is gone. Technician even washed all the lower braces after putting them back post mount install. Motor vibrations are GONE. Smooth as silk! 😃
Now to get back to cleaning the underside.
Have not posted here in a long time because I have been busy getting cars in and out (good things, very grateful!)
I have been pushing hard to get my 996.1 aerokit car ready for the first event of the 2025 SCCA Appalachian Hillclimb series next weekend in KY (April 25-27).
There are/were SO many things to sort on this basket case car it isn't funny, here is a brief outline and a photo dump of things since April 1.
1) rebuilt intermixing motor
2) replaced 4wd trans with 2nd gear pop out issue - was lucky to get a Bill Raider rebuilt LSD 2wd trans
3) remove front diff/axles
4) replace rear wheel bearings
5) add stainless brake lines and GT3 master cylinder
6) add rollbar and harnesses (requirement for series) WITHOUT breaking the windshield *yay!*
7) re-affix aerokit side skirts
8) center console delete kit
Things to do:
1) Waiting for 2wd front hubs so I can ditch the Feal coilovers and put on some used Motons I have
2) Corner balance and setup
3) baffled oil pan, under drive pulley, maybe a third radiator kit (might not get to this one before the event).
All of this has been done between customer cars. We have also done a IMS solution, a new GT4RS rollbar install, a 992 seat swap, and several other fun projects. I love working on these cars!
--Aaron
GT4 RS rollbar (not as cool as a 996 obviously)
eBay Europe center console delete - spot on
drilling someone's oversized head studs and helicoiling bank 2 exhaust studs on my "new" motor I built
stainless brake lines, note the cruddy black undercoating someone applied (I assume?)
Manual 992 GT3- maybe almost as cool as a 996!
Rear wheel bearing fun.
My new 2wd LSD trans for the aerokit car
GT3 Master install- call us for the adapter you will need to install in your 996.
Being careful not to break the windshield while installing the rollbar!
Phew! Only took about 16 Asprin tablets to feel back to normal after this one. The one piece bars in the 996/997 are a fighting match sometimes.
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No tag on this car- I worked on a Porsche Cup team back in 17-19 and walked away with some treasures from the PMNA trailer
refitting the side skirts- these were poorly attached.
Someone glued the driver's side skirt on (factory?) it had rust underneath, I ground down the rust, primed and painted it (not to match since its covered) Here is the end result
Waiting for suspension bits!
I replaced all the wear components and picked up some new Apex rims and Michelin PS4S tires!
I did a full refresh of everything. All stock except, adjustable koni shocks, eibach springs, and tarett engineering sway bars and front drop links.
Before
After
During
I replace front and rear disc and pads and all the hardware for the 1st time since I purchased the car. I was surprised at how well the wear sensor clips were thought out. Also replace struts on the frunk.
I’m sorry I forgot to post a pic. I just do not think of it. And I a not taking a wheel off.So tada… Here is one of the tray of the used parts .As you can see I used Sebring and Textar as replacements. I did loose a wear sensor clip on the front and have the part number already. Need to get a replacement. As far as the hood struts I used an Amazon set for 14 dollars and they seem to work fine. The next job is to remove bumper clean radiators and install a metal grid and I will take pics thru the whole process this time.
When I bought my car I decided all my mods would be reversable. I picked up the Porsche High Performance audio kit so I needed a set of door cards to sacrifice for the new woofer housings.
I found some NOS on ebay but somehow missed that one was missing the airbag hole. I'm such a maroon.
Looking at the back, it doesn't look like it would be easy to modify.
Oh man, that�s too bad about the door card. But don�t mod it! List it for sale again, I�m sure there will be a buyer that�s looking for that - especially in NOS condition.
Made good progress this weekend- things are starting to come together for this weekend's Hillclimb.
Tires being delivered today (went with RE71rs's as A6's wouldn't have arrived in time). Corner balance and alignment, vBox, and some numbers should be all that's needed (fingers crossed).
--Aaron
Did some spring cleaning, would like to replace this LH radiator as it's looking crust.
Added the third radiator
On Aerokit bumper cars you have to physically cut the bumper, it is easy as there is a line around the backside. No bracket like on standard bumper cars, the air guide just presses up against the bumper.
Replaced the massive H8 battery with a H5 Walmart special. Pressure washed this front area- amazing how dirty it was.
Banged out the fenders with a hammer. Yes, a hammer (wrapped in duct tape). If it works do not knock it. You have to take your time and use heat.
I might have splurged at Walmart - new radio since the car had a bunch of wires hanging out of the dash there! (yes, my Chinese replacemend HVAC LCD is very confident in his gender).
@RennPart
- Hey Aaron, what are those orange canisters under the bonnet? Is that an air system for suspension? Just curious and would like to know more.
This is what I have into this one. Feel free to make an offer or if you have Graphite door card in good shape with an airbag, maybe we can do some kind of trade...
After getting gas, I noticed that my oil level indicator was below min level and blinking. I checked the dipstick after the car cooled down for a couple of hours and it showed low as well.
You Tube
Not understanding that what the difference is between min and max, after the car cooled down overnight, I added one quart at a time, let it settle, measure and add some more if needed (all measurements at the dipstick and indicator), until the oil was at the top dipstick marker and the oil level indicator was at max. I added approximately 2 quarts.
Drove it around to let the oil warm and circulate. Come back home, let the car cool for a few hours, check the dipstick and oil indicator again and see that it is a little overfilled (one bar over max line) and dipstick showing oil past top marker.
After researching here and better understanding the difference between min and max on the indicator, I decided to subtract 1/2 quart of oil. Not wanting to get under the car, I used an oil extractor and extract the oil through the dipstick tube. It was a clean and easy process and the dipstick and oil indicator now showing between min and max (but not at max). Not bad for a >$30 Amazon product. Will take it for a drive later today and check levels after.
You Tube
You want it between the upper & lower notches (holes) on the dipstick (preferably in the middle of them). Don't over fill it as it will cause issues (down the road) with the AOS. Also, never relay on the dash gauge, always check at the stick.
I only measure in the morning(sitting for 8+ hours) with the car on a flat surface. I never check it when out and about. The range on my dipstick is 1 quart. Same thing on the dash gauge. 8 bars total is 1 quart. If I check the stick and the oil is touching the bottom of the range, I add 1/2 quart to put it in the middle. No thinking required. Overtime my dash gauge has proved quite consistent with the stick.
@flipnidaho
, just thinking out loud.
The oil level on the dipstick may also depend on whether you have a 996.1 or 996.2 and which dipstick you are running.
About 20 years ago, the factory responded to AOS failures by suggesting that the 996.2 run less oil and replaced the dipstick with a new one. At that time the dealer was supposed to recalibrate the computer to sink with the new dipstick. This may account for the variance.
I'll try to find a picture comparing the 2. As a side note, if you run the UAOS with the track drain, you can over fill the oil by as much as 2 qts over full on the dipstick without a problem because it can process the extra oil. It can also handle an additional 2 qts of oil from a deep sump for a total of 4 qts.
I run 12 qts of oil in my 996.2 with the UAOS Track and a 2 qt deep sump. Engine loves it and the UAOS handles it w/o a hiccup.
This is the only picture i can find, which isnt much help showing the lengths. The new yellow one is a 996.1. The old dirty one is a 996.2.
This picture shows where oil levels will very roughly fall on the 996.1 dipstick if you ran 1qt or 2qts over full. Of course, the diagram is a very, very rough approximation and not perfectly exact measurements. So don't try overfilling the oil unless you are running the UAOS track on your car and perform a blow-by test. You can get more info on Skips UAOS thread.
Front radiators cleaned out for the first time during my ownership.
Replaced dash and rear speakers - OEM radio and new speakers are fine by me. CD changer and tape player work great...lol
Four years after I got my Polar Silver '02 cab, my wife's twin sister decided she need the same, although hers is an Arctic Silver 4 Cab. Here are the two cars meeting for the first time at the top of Selleck Hill just before the bears showed up!
Thanks brother. It�s not really that obvious until you park next to a Seal gray car, I�ve lost count of how many people have asked if she was repainted.
1 month after the passenger vanity mirror cover cracked, the driver's side vanity mirror cover cracked as well. Luckily, the replacement is cheap and easy (and I could do without the airbag warnings anyway).
I got my cover from Amazon, left them sitting in the sun for few hours and very easy to install.
Amazon.com: Replacement Sunvisor Vanity Mirror Cover for Porsche 996, 997, 987 Boxster, Cayman : Automotive
Amazon.com: Replacement Sunvisor Vanity Mirror Cover for Porsche 996, 997, 987 Boxster, Cayman : Automotive
During my drive today, I noticed the SAI at cold start was a little whiny for about 60 seconds. I think it's time to tear into it tonight I bought a back used SAI from eBay just in case the operation is not a success.
You Tube
Contrary to my post above, the mini-vac sound coming from the SAI is probably normal and there is no CEL or stored error codes so I'm just going to just let it do it's thing until the noise becomes too much or it throws a code. Having said that, while I was inspecting the SAI, I saw that someone put a zip tie instead of a hose clamp on the output hose. My OCD got the better of me and it had to go. Always a great excuse to use a new tool and tinker. The locking hose clamp tool is way better than needle nose pliers!
Secondary Air Injection...
it recycles some of the hot gas from the exhaust back through the engine to help warm up the catalytic converters quicker.
Thanks for the correction
@JohnCA58
Mine didn't come with a hose clamp, and it kept popping off when I relocated the SAI pump, so I added one.
I just used a cheap worm-gear clamp because that was the only size I had that fit.
I still haven't replaced it with the correct spring clamp 8 years later.
Correction, I think you got EGR mixed up with SAI functions, it does not use hot exhaust gas, SAI pump takes fresh air and pumps it thru the exhaust stream to reduce harmful gases during rich cold start, and can come on during drives to show emision readiness.
Well, I have another weekend project that should take less than an hour, but i'll take my time.
Just received a replacement Steering Wheel with Paddles to replace the TipS buttons on my X50 coveredin Napa leather. It will be much nicer. $1,399 from DTC.
Does anyone know the size of the nut? I am guessing 32mm
SAI or SAP (Secondary Air Pump), mine is making the whistle noise between 2,500 and 3,000 RPMs but not all the time. I purchased a Chinese made replacement, but I am going to take the original apart and refurbish it.
I dont remember the nut size. For me, getting the screws from behind the wheel, to get the airbag off, was a pain. Make sure the wheel is straight before you pull it off. Maybe mark it. Tucking the wiring back in was a bit difficult too. Take your time, take pictures as you disassemble.
I actually did the same thing. I ordered an eBay new clone and a used OEM SAI. Going to run power to both to see how quiet they are and I'll keep them in reserve in case mine gives up the ghost. Once that happens, I'll tear the original OEM apart and grease the sealed bearings and test to see if it's quieter than the backup units. The car is at 92k miles.
This is not what I have done to the 996 today, but rather what the 996 X50 has done to me.
Some might know that back in late February, I was caught driving 40 mph over the limit in Coral Springs, Florida, right after installing a new tune file. I was standing at a light, and no one was in front of me. Police were on my left, making a left turn. The light went green, and I started to accelerate. In less than 2 seconds, I was doing 80 mph (it seemed like two seconds - it was fast). The next thing I saw were lights trying to catch up.
Well, in Florida, there is a mandatory court appearance. So I hired a firm in the county where the ticket was issued after some research. The Ticket Clinic wants $249, and others want over $100. This firm charged $99
http://www.trafficticketattorney.net
The result: No Points, No Traffic School, and only a fine of $275. If in Florida, you might give them a call.
PS: I have a built-in Escort SRX which I did not turn on. Now it is on all the time
Looks so great, mind sharing the size spacers you have? 🙆🏻♂️
Made a quick run to Calico Baisin with some friends tonight, one of which just purchased a 718. Great car, what Porsche did with the 4-cylinder is amazing IMO. The short, crisp manual throws make my car feel like it's air-cooled vintage.
Also turns out I have a very clean underside from behind.
New starter and Y-cable (hot restart drag), silicone cap for the resonator flap hinge, and installed a NOS leather trim dash horseshoe because it looks so much better than the old scuffed soft touch trim. 244.5K miles and still going strong!
Next will be the Agency Power headers that that have been collecting dust on the shelf for 3 years.
Thanks, I�m happy with the way this setup feels and looks!
I installed Numeric 15mm spacers front and rear before dropping it off for the Bilstein/H&R install.
I had an incident a couple of weeks ago when the 996 wouldn't start after it's been driven in the heat (cranks but no start). Putting the gas pedal to the floor while cranking eventually got the car started and it hasn't happened again since. After researching RL for possible causes, I figured the Evap Purge valve is easy to access, test and clean (and over $300 to replace with new OEM). I decided to take 15 minutes today to remove, test, and clean it.
Location of the purge valve. There is an electrical connector and a vapor input and output (input has tabs to depress to remove and the output (goes to intake) has a hose clamp.
OEM purge valve part #. As usual, I cleaned it with some rubbing alcohol before working on it. To test blow into either the input or output. Without power, it should be closed.
Attach leads to it from a 9v battery to open the valve and blow on it again. The valve clicks open audibly and you should be able to blow air through.
To clean, I left the valve open by running power to it then sprayed brake cleaner through it, followed by compressed air. Let it dry, test again and reinstall.
Lean back and have a cigarette for what you just did to your car.
3 hrs of ripping Upstate NY�s best rural roads with the crew. Installed an air-box from a 997 3.8S last week, so my 3.8 build has finally some engine badging. I gotta the say induction noise with the new box has much more grunt when you put your foot in it. Can�t wait to get coilovers on the thing, but I�m so, SO pleased with how this car has turned out so far. Drive �em! Also shoutout fellow local
@iflypropplanes
in the silver Boxster.
Continued with more detailing, today finally completing the floor pan and front diff area, having recently finished the front suspension and wheel houses.
I also give the scuttle area a little tickle.
May want to look into the function first bearings/cables at a minimum. Suprised u think the 997gt3 shifter is too short.....most feel its the sweat spot. I run a numeric but i would like to try out a CAE. It just looks like u r rowing a boat
.
We got it open enough that the door guy could bring his tools in but he didn't want to open it all the way because something bad could happen. I don't remember what.
I had put the garbage bins out for trash day and then got in the shower and heard a super loud 'CRACK' noise from the direction of the garage. I thought someone had hit my garage door and it wasn't until I went to bring the bins in that I realized it was a broken spring.
Feel like the luckiest man alive! If I was gambler I�d go buy a lottery ticket. Can�t believe all 12 original exhaust manifolds screws came out without breaking. Had to use an extractor on one because the head was so corroded that it was no longer a 13mm hex after 244K+ miles on the car.
Anyone need a Stomski SR067 drill jig kit that I could have sworn I was going to need?
When I first got my 2003 C4S about a year ago, I would get a different OBD code and engine issues on almost every drive.
I thought " all those sensors CAN'T be going bad..."
What do they all have in common?
The computer under the back seat!
(and the wiring)
When I got in there, I found a mouse nest and corrosion (from mouse urine?) on a lot of the wiring connections and relays.
But the fix that finally solved the gremlins, was finding a corroded ground stud on the passenger side.
I hope your gremlins are as easy to resolve!
Paul
DON'T TOUCH THOSE SPRINGS!!
I almost lost a couple of fingers back when I thought I could adjust my sisters...
(I only got about 40 stitches instead)
They have A LOT of stored energy!
Pay someone to do it!
I'm in the middle of a full refresh myself. Just did all the control arms. Coilovers and inner/outer tie rods next week.
Is it just me or are you missing the washers that go under the nuts on the knuckle-end of the rear upper arms? Circled in red on a random online image.
Next time you�re nosing around the transmission mount, check for rubs on your coolant hoses that run over the carrier plate.
The little abrasion sleeves slip over time.
This won�t last much longer.
Cheap insurance.
Thanks for the catch! I ordered new hardware with the control arms, and it did not come with new washers/locking plates, so I didn't reuse the old ones. But now I'm second guessing myself, and I think I'll throw them back on just to be safe.
Good luck on the tie rods...one of mine came out easily, the other was a multi-hour cursing affair.
Just fitting my new refinished Sport Designs. These are 8" fronts and 10" rears. I went with Conti ExtremeSport 2's. 235/40 in the front and 275/35, they feel great and I like the look of meater sidewalls. Sorry but i managed to take the worst photo ever lol. Also just install Rennline **** and phone mount
Those triangular plates are very important. They will hold the upper dog bones on if the bushing totally disintegrates. Without them the wheel carrier will likely come off the car.
Yeah, the flanges on the nuts don�t seem to cover the entire bushing. Definitely use the washers. Though it�s a pain to get a socket on the nuts with the washers in place.
Thanks! I�m actually getting my alignment shop to do the coilovers and tie rods. Just the control arms ended up being a major time sink.
Yikes, glad I took the time to throw those pictures up in the thread. I'd like to think the tech inspection would have caught it before the car hit the track, but still...
Well, I bit the bullet because I forgot to take my pharma medications and when out and bought a 2004, 3P. Cab with a hardtop. Car is Silver with black top and interior. Immaculate. Two Owner car. Flew to Virginia to look at it and made an offer and was accepted after consultation with the sellers wife. :-) Smart woman. Flying back next week to finalize the details and give the cashiers check.
Cash is King indeed
Tracking down a rough idle and P0491 and P0492, found no voltage to the SAI pump. There are both a relay and a fuse, both under the back seat�.. big 40 fuse (physically big).
In my case it was the fuse�..
Hope this helps someone�..
full story is my 2004 with 105k miles had a squealing pump. Decided to replace it with an Amazon Chinese pump�.. it ran for 34 days before it blew the fuse�.. also it was noisier than my original pump.
1 year warrantee was useless, vendor wouldn�t take it back since I bought it through Amazon, even though they have a �store� through Amazon�..
Amazon agreed to take it back for a refund, since it was over thirty days they wouldn�t just replace it�.. worked out fine though, got a low mileage used pump off eBay, and it�s running nice and quietly�..
-Eric
Took the car from sounding great to FK�N AMAZING!!!! Those Agency Power headers gave me a beautiful change in tone that compliments the factory PSE and Fabspeed x-pipe perfectly. I recommend the combo to everyone!
Remembered to acetone them before the first run, so that are a nice even color without any goofy spotting.
I�ve never heard of acetoning headers. Do you brush it on, or maybe slather it with a towel? The result is beautiful.
Would you be able to share a sound clip? I imagine it�d sound higher-pitched with that setup.
The acetone is to remove any greases or organics on the surface. Just a wipe down with towel. It will dry pretty quickly. This assures that as the exhaust heat forms the native oxide layer, it is not interrupted by different contaminants that burn into the metal. One uniform color. It's pretty cool.
Was able to shorten the initial startup video from yesterday to 6 second clip. The smoke you see is the Seafoam GDI spray residue I used to do some cleanup on the exhaust ports burning off. It never has any exhaust smoke on cold starts.
Does the car drive better after you do these kinds of mega cleanups? I know it shouldn't, and probably doesn't, but I always do a mega cleanup when I am working on something and I often feel like the car drives better after.
Same here. It was slow and painstaking over several weeks. My selection of brushes and implements are as worn as Andy Dufresne's rock hammer!
Not sure to be honest, I've not driven 200 miles since owning it, but it drives exceptionally well - really smooth, tight and sharp.
I repaired my rear spoiler,
it now goes up and down as it should!
one less dash light to deal with, a big thanks to those who dealt with this issue before and documented it.
My next adventure will be ordering the rear ABS wiring harness repair bundle, this is how I found mine first the brake wear light went on then a few days later the abs light, followed by the check engine light .
Would appreciate any tips for this endeavor.
Not today, but I was planning to get out of the garage and change the oil now that the weather is finally getting decent in WI. I used to always use a grey Permatex gasket sealant and dressing on the drain plug washer. A long time ago that was recommended by FSI. It seems Permatex has discontinued that product. What are all of you using to help seal the drain plug washer?
I�ve never used anything but a new crush washer. No leaks ever, so I�m not sure why Permatex would be needed (unless there is scoring on the surface somewhere, but that seems unlikely).
Very pretty, I am happy to hear they sound good.
I am doing (hopefully) future planning (pull the engine to do IMS, UAOS, chain pads) and was thinking of exhaust changes (Hawaii doesn't have an emissions inspection).
I went to Agency Power's website and put in 2003 C4S (in their dropdowns), and got this:
How did you get the correct ones? (as I know you have a C4S)
Paul
P.S. I put stainless SSI heat exchangers on my 911 2.7 20 years ago.
I was thinking about polishing and buffing them (they were so pretty!) but I didn't.
Ted at German Precision said "You should take a picture of that engine now, because it will never look this good ever again"
I didn't.
He was right.
I did my first clutch change one evening (a 1971 Datsun 510, and I had to drive it to work the next day).
My dad saw the black gunk inside the bell housing and said
"Are you going to leave that??"
I said "YES! It won't affect the mechanical operation, and no one will ever see it ! ! "
Now (45 years later), some things I leave alone, some things I wipe down, and some things I clean, polish and buff.
It all depends on how important it is TO ME.
Today, I would still leave that 510 bell housing gunk, but I might solvent wash the outside
(but I would clean it in my C4S. Go figure).
Paul
Mine is a 2003 C4S also. Not sure you can find them new anymore. Agency Power stopped making them in 2021 I think. Got lucky and picked this set on clearance then for like $350 and they had been sitting on my shelf for 3.5 years.
The repair is pretty straight forward- take the repair kit and cut your current loom back (I go back as far as I can or as the repair kit length allows). Splice in the new connector and wrap your splices neatly with some electrical tape or heat shrink if you want it to look factory.
--Aaron
Hello Aaron,
I think the rear ABS repair will involve removing the rear interior and carpet to access the harness, to pin
the repair kit
to the connector.
Here are my headers after 1 year and 5k miles. I wiped them with acetone after installing them. You can still see the nice gold brown coloring on the ends, but the surfaces that get hit by road stuff end up looking like other high temp outdoor stuff.
Ordering all my parts to do the suspension and control arm fresh. What brand products did you go with?
Ill be installing-
Koni Sport Shocks
M030 Springs
New endlinks and bushings
Inner and Outer tie rods (Meyle)
All new control arms front and back (Meyle)
I don't think I'm missing anything. I already replaced the engine mounts but just need to do the transmission mount bushing.
Koni Sport Shocks -
I went with Ohlins Road & Track coilovers
M030 Springs -
see above
New endlinks and bushings -
Lemforder (OE) on the front:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...99634307305kt1
and TRW (OE) on rear:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...t-trw-jts554kt
. Powerflex for the sway bar bushings
Inner and Outer tie rods (Meyle):
TRW (OE) for both inner and outer:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...an-43943023381
All new control arms front and back (Meyle):
Same, I used Meyle
You'll want new front and rear shock/strut mounts:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...or-99633305903
,
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...-99734301801kt
The oetiker clamp on the front tie rod was super annoying to install, so I would go with a worm clamp if I had to do it again.
It's stupid expensive, but I also opted to get new hardware--glad I did, as while I could have reused most of the hardware, there were a couple that I mangled during removal:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...97ctrlhrdwrkt1
Don't be an idiot like me, and do take the time to remove the rotors. Makes life much easier on the control arm removal/install. And of course a breaker bar and lots of penetrating fluid!
I did Meyle for all control arms, TRW inner and outer tie rods, and Feal 441 long stroke coilovers (came out cheaper than shocks + springs + bump stops, top mounts, etc. but with added adjustability).
The coilovers came up with front sway bar end links. I will get TRW rear end links. OEM bushings all around.
I also went with Meyle and TRW for the suspension bits and mostly oem from Pelican for all the bushings and whatnot to refresh all the shock hardware. The M030 springs, sways, bushings, and Koni shocks from Gert at Carnewal.
Nevr-Dull and 2 hours of elbow grease.
I�ll see how it lasts. I�m debating refinishing the tips the same anthracite gray as my rims, so if it dulls quickly, that�ll settle the debate!
Here�s a Before picture:
Thanks! 2 hours makes sense! They are NOT easy to polish.
I've never ever seen stainless that is more difficult to polish than the factory tips!!!
I've seen people polish solid stainless with wet sanding (e.g 400, 600, 1000, 2000, 3000 -- then metal polish), but I don't if this would work on the 996 tips.
I'm actually not sure the factory tips are 100% stainless,or some kind of coated surface.
They are definitely stainless steel, so a sand with a few grades and a polish works. I've done mine a few times like that.
Alternatively you don't need to polish and can leave them like a brushed finish which looks good also.
I tried to figure out what they were made of too, but no luck. I was thinking the same thing, either stainless steel or coated.
So I thought I would just give it a try, and I paint them if it turned out bad. I never wore through the shine, if that helps, but this polish isn�t very abrasive either.
I used the exact same stuff, predicated with a plastic scraper for the big chunks and followed by drill motor polishing with an old used headlight disc. They looked great. But not for long! Sorry.
So weird. I guess they used
VERY
low quality stainless. I've never had any other stainless that's so difficult to keep clean/polished.
Even though I'm a bit of originality zealot, I put on (entirely reversible) aftermarket stainless "quad" exhaust tips 8 years ago. They still look like new, without any work beyond normal cleaning during car washes.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25241025892...3ABFBM-uKK_tRl
A simple oil change turned into a mess. I have the Spin-on Oil Filter adapter. I changed the oil and started the car briefly to move it. When I got out, there was oil all over my driveway. At first I thought I might have knocked over the old oil but then I noticed that it looked like new oil. I removed the filter thinking that the adapter might have loosened when I removed the old filter, but that wasn't the case. The gasket from the old NAPA filter was stuck to the adapter. You would think that two gaskets are better than one, but not so much. Just to be safe, I checked the torque on the adapter and it was still fine. Live and learn.
I had that "double gasket" thing happen to me back in 1980 on a Drag Race Engine....It held and didn't leak for 7 passes untill I got to the Finals....Then it let go as I left the starting line and by 2nd gear the engine locked up !!! ........That $2 gasket and my carelessness cost me a WIN and an Engine !!!!
Bolt on - same mounting as the original tips when I put them on
EDIT: Get new standard 996 exhaust clamps though when you change the tips -- the clamps tend to be pretty baked over time
I had something similar happen changing oil on our Lexus. My mistake was changing it on the slanted driveway rather than moving cars to get to the garage. While I have a large pan, when the oil came out it hit the pan and bounced over the lip, running down the full length of the car before I stopped it. I needed new oil dry anyway.
Jeez that sucks and I have a similar story but it involves complacency. I usually put a drip pan under the plastic oil pan to "protect" the race deck flooring, it's plastic and oil easily wipes off but I try to keep it clean. Now imagine a oil drain pan, think it was a 10qt or something large like that, I removed the vent plug and the pan plug(it's red and about 3" in diameter... this is important later in the story) but like a moron... placed the plug on the brim of the drain pan not thinking anything of it. The garage door was open because it wasn't air conditioned at the time and the Touareg was 3/4 in the garage so there was minimal tilt.
Once I loosened the car's oil drain plug, the initial oil came out and was flowing into the plastic drain pan. At some point the wind blew the red plug into the drain pan... plugging the drain hole. The VW is a TDi and the oil is a deep black, I didn't notice the oil rapidly coming up and spilling over on the backside of the plastic pan. Once I realized what was happening, there had to have been about 3-4qts of oil spilling off both the oil drain pan and drip pan. Then I stuck my hand in the damned oil drain pan like a caveman looking for the bright red obstruction that was now covered and no longer visible because used diesel oil might as well be a blackhole from the cosmos.
Longer story short, about 5qts of used diesel oil was on the garage floor heading to the outside pavers. My arm is covered in oil and I'm scrounging around my house looking of kitty litter because that's all I had. There was oil overywhere and then I had to clean everything up and then finish the oil change. My GF wasn't happy that I was 2hrs late to a family dinner at her house... still smelling like oil after taking multiple showers. Lots of lessons learned but the most important is keep an eye on anything big enough to clog the pan.
I think everyone has a story like this.... the first oil change I did on my 996TT I positioned my drain pan under the oil tank drain (aside: the dry sump engine has a separate oil tank drain and engine drain).
When I took out the tank drain plug the entire 9 quarts of oil drained out in about 1 millisecond and overwhelmed my drain pan, oil went everywhere, all over the engine and the right hand turbo and the pavement. Many cans of brake cleaner later order was restored.
Now I drain the oil tank directly to a 5 gallon pail.
Ha! So true!
The 996 drains way faster than the my new oil drain container can handle.
I watched the disaster develop, hoping it wouldn�t happen, like someone near a flood levee during a hurricane�
I used all my shop towels as the oil spilled over.
I use a 3.5 gallon bucket to catch my oil under my QuickJacks.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leaktite...HTGY/314130781
The sides are high enough to prevent splashing out or over flowing.
I take my bucket to a nearby oil change to be recycled.
Oil pours out very quickly.
I added vinyl to indicate what’s in the bucket.
Wash time
(no oil involved fortunately)
😆
Tried Porsche's classic fuel stabilizer (000-044-206-22) tonight when I re-fueled. Last cold start seemed super smooth, I'm wondering if adding the stabilizer is to thank.💥 Don't know if it has PEA, that seems to be most critical for cleaning fuel injectors. I'm on Porsche Classic's 5W-50 at the moment so figured why not.
I use "Pri-G" in every gas powered piece of equipment I own. I have had equipment stored for two straight years and all of it has fired right up when needed. Never had a fuel related issue because that stuff works ! I also use "Pri-D" in all my diesel power equipmewnt if storage is required.
I did the cabriolet hook replacement shown in this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...er-repair.html
It worked but when closing, the hook hits the top of the windshield the first time, then backs off a bit and retries. It works the second time. Is this something that would be fixed with a Durametric recalibration? If so, any advice/pointers on doing the recalibration?
Today I installed the replacement LCD for the Climate system. Not very difficult, but despite following the sellers hint on getting the display right side up, well, you guessed it. I had to remove the completed assembly and turn the display right side up. Even with that glitch it took less than an hour. It's nice having the display look the way it's supposed to! The bezel went on after the picture!
First oil change with a magnetic drain plug, oil pan was never cleaned prior to installing, here's what I found on it. No shards, no chunks, the finest of fine particles. Cause for major concern? Oil analysis is on its way already.
The previous owner had had a magnetic drain plug installed a few years ago, so I was anxious to see what was on my magnet. Well, Lo and Behold, when I went to change my oil for the first time in my ownership, the drain plug was not magnetic, so I couldn't get any insights! Now I'm wondering what happened to the magnetic drain plug that he paid about $25 for! And I'm ordering one for my next oil change, and noting one more reason to do these chores myself!
Ordered a new right side radiator fan for the C4S.
On Sunday I found the A/C performance to be diminished. Found that the fan wouldn’t engage, even with the Durametric. After I replaced the blown fuse, it came to life - albeit with a sickly sound and a burning electrical smell.
Over the last couple of weekends, I've been fixing the blowing foam issue in my Targa. I decided last year I'd start collecting parts to convert my partial leather/vinyl interior to full leather. I spent months sourcing excellent condition used leather dashboard, instrument pod, airbag cover, glovebox cover, door panels in anticipation of swapping them out as part of the foam fix. I bought my Targa in 2016, and the interior while an example of the time (design & materials wise) was a letdown in vinyl. I knew I wanted to update but couldn't justify until the foam issue reared its ugly head and became project dash swap.
I took the opportunity to do the following work: Installed blend door plugs, lining the Bose subwoofer enclosure with Dynomat (made a huge difference!), adding wireless Carplay to already installed PCCM+ and installing Autobahn.Engineering A1 (MagSafe charging) for an OEM like wireless charging experience.
My biggest concern in the project was after getting it all back together introducing some sort of rattle, squeak, etc. I'm relieved to share after driving some of Sacramento's worst streets that the interior sounds just as it did before the swap. Whew!
All in all, everything turned out how I'd hoped and, in the process, I only broke one part. Ha! A quick drive to local Porsche wrecker for like-new passenger air vent and it was sorted for under $50.
Would I do this again? Not unless I really had to - but I'm glad I did because I like the results. I still have a few leather bits to source including Targa specific right quarter trim panel and upper/lower console pieces which I'm sure I'll find at some point.
Just need to remove the aluminum crash bar to get to brace in front of the HVAC box. I decided to leave the stalks on and fish the dash around it - worked fine.
This is what I found - front door was in better shape the back door. Cleaned them both up to get ready for the blend door plugs.
I went with blend door plugs using black RTV to match.
PCCM+ breakout box connected to wireless adapter (rear) while the powered USB/USB C mounted for Apple Magsafe to be powered. Tapped into the switched wire from unused phone connector. After putting on carpet and console trim they're tucked away safe and sound. Installed Autobahn.Engineering A1 MagSafe cubby. Great product - looks OEM.
Finished...thank goodness!
I had replaced seat covers (GAHH) and cushions a few months ago. It's about as fancy (stock wise) as it gets in a 996.
Found a replacement leather console cover with Porsche script - it doesn't make me go any faster, but I like it. Lol.
@keviha
you sir, are a brave, brave man.
Fellow targa brother here, interested in more info regarding the sound deadening you did to the Bose sub. I'm fairy happy with its performance now that I got the damn aftermarket cubby to stop horribly vibrating, but I'm all ears if there's room for improvement.
Thanks! It was a pretty big job...especially for a guy who no one would confuse for a mechanic! In terms of tips/pitfalls...mine are pretty basic and largely depend on how skilled you are. I made sure to have print out of workshop manual (10-996-Body-Interior) ready at the hand. I saved a bunch of YouTube videos on various parts of the removal to review as I went along. I took my time...bagging/tagging and taking pictures. The trickiest part was getting the V shaped bracket off/on that sits in front of the central HVAC housing. Once off you can get to the front and back side of the front blend door but not the backside of the back blend door. It's not an issue if you plan on using blend door plugs, but if someone is committed to using heat tape it would be nearly impossible to get to the backside of back door. Other than that, go slow...don't miss a screw because there is no joy in having to go back in. Good luck!
Maybe more like "dense"...but I'll take "brave." Ha! Nice to hear from a fellow Targa brother. Adding Dynamat to the Bose Subwoofer is the most satisfying mod. That damn Bose sub mounted on the passenger footwell would resonate way too much at low volume levels. The link will take you to what I ordered and cut/installed to the inside of the sub. The resonance is gone and the bass is tight and deep - well as good as I think it can be considering the limitations of the speaker & design. For $25 and an hour or so of your time you can't beat the value. Good luck!
Amazon.com: Dynamat Xtreme Sound Deadening Car Insulation Speaker Pack – Pre Cut Noise Dampening Kit for Audio Speakers – Easy Self Adhesive Install – 2 Sheets 10”x10” Each, 1.4 sq ft Total : Automotive
Amazon.com: Dynamat Xtreme Sound Deadening Car Insulation Speaker Pack – Pre Cut Noise Dampening Kit for Audio Speakers – Easy Self Adhesive Install – 2 Sheets 10”x10” Each, 1.4 sq ft Total : Automotive
Received the replacement radiator fan today and already installed it. I need a new 40a fuse and I�ll give it a try tomorrow. The old unit definitely was not in good shape.
Since in a klutz, I inadvertently broke portions of
both
forward fender liners.
It�s not a real project for me unless I break something during disassembly or reassembly.
That's a really great job you did on your swap.
Did you replace your e-brake as well? (not the handle but the leather wrapped lower portion).
You should consider a fresh steering wheel. It would be the cherry on top in your now perfected interior!
Unfortunately, I didn�t think to take pictures. The amount of Dynamat in one package was enough to cut into sections to cover the sides and ends of the sub. It didn�t cover every square inch but I don�t believe that�s necessary.
No, not this time around. I added the Tquipment e-brake and shift boot/**** a couple years ago so they�re in nearly new condition.
I�m right there with you on the steering wheel. I have my eyes on the optional leather sport wheel at Suncoast. Price is crazy though so not sure that�s in the cards.
Thanks for taking the progress pictures! I just got my cabriolet a few months ago, and I've been wondering what the 'foam blend door' problem was all about. Now I know!
This is an easy fix. No need to strip the car LOL.....plenty of YouTube videos but I did mine and several others by going through the inside front behind the radio, etc.
PCCM+ goes in Saturday.
Also ordered new lower rear wheel arches. Suncoast has the best pricing for anyone looking. At 45,000 miles mine are pretty pitted and a bit sun bleached.
I'd rather not out the person but he was in the modified group and the car only had wheels and an intake. The car itself only had 3Xk miles and a Sonder build. It was silver on gray, auto, aero sides and regular C2 bumper. Probably shouldn't have been in the modified class but he was a really nice guy overall and I was just happy to be there.
They must be for aero, as the tires would not be throwing debris forward. The Aero skirts have approximately the same shape and mount to the same location.
In all honesty it wasn�t the most concise judging but I did get 45/50 points which I think is fair. Other judges who didn�t grade my car walked over and asked a bunch of questions, overall a great experience. I�ve mentioned it here before, one judge in particular loved the �outlaw� look of my car and said he�s never seen another 996 spec�d like mine in all the time he�s participated in PCA judging. Once I get the RS bumper on and get the euro rear bumper� it�ll bring me closer to 50.
One interesting thing another non 996 guy pointed out was they treated it closer to a concours event and engines weren�t included in judging. The 991+ have almost completely covered engines! Either way it was a fun time and my car will never be a concours level car because I�m determined to track it as much as I can.
^^^The wheels look great (and yes, i'm biased)!
The only thing I might change would be to swap the gold center caps for silver to match the wheel lip and car color.
Nice! I�ve really enjoyed having a PCCM+ installed in my Targa.
I see the cable for the breakout box coming thru the back of the cubby. Something I just did was to install an Autobahn Engineering A1 MagSafe charging cubby. It�s out of the UK and looks OEM allowing mounting of MagSafe charger and AirTag in back as option if you always want to know where your 911 is.
https://autobahn.engineering/
Installation would be a breeze for your installer dropping the PCCM+ box behind the console; plugging in wireless CarPlay adapter. For power to the MagSafe, add a 30w USB outlet/charger C/A adapter (depending on phone) tapped into the switched wire of the unused phone connector �zip tie � putting the console and carpet trim back and and you�re set with stealth/ OEM like wireless CarPlay.
Here�s a video by Portie�s Garage that was my inspiration to do the install as part of my recent dashboard swap.
https://youtu.be/hBnG7aXwkgQ?si=8t1cAMiy2CC9EJ5A
My friend with awesome fabricating skills and a great shop built me an X-pipe. We installed headers and did a gundo hack at the same time (the quieter version).
I absolutely love the new sound. It�s quiet at start up, idle, and cruising RPM. Neighbor friendly, and then it sings under WOT and at revs.
Thanks Big K!
Just got done installing Koni Sport shocks with RoW M030 springs (also new top hats, bearing, bump stops and bellow), new endlinks and power flex sway bar bushings.
I set the damping to medium and it�s amazing!
I think they�re relatively little known in the community. I found out by word of mouth. Asked my friend what he likes and he threw a curve ball� Konis. I�m a convert now!
I did exactly the same thing last spring. I've had Konis on every car back to my Mustang. Strictly born out of love of racing and following Jackie Stewart. I figured if they were good enough for Ken Tyrrell, they'd suit me just fine.
I got these from the Radiator Grille Store. They attached via 3 small zip ties per side. It's a little bit tricky to secure via zip ties but if done right, you can barely see them.
Thank you. That�s how I plan on doing mine.
Hey - did you notice the Legislature just passed the no front license plate needed if your car didn�t come with a plate bracket?
My interior is getting to where I want it in the aerokit car. I want to paint the console then I think I will be content.
I used the Rennline shift book kit which was really easy, I didn't even find glue necessary. The **** is from a craftsman in MX, he makes them to order. I chose the CGT style. I had to trim the boot short to get it to work but think it turned out well.
--Aaron
That seems like a weird law (how do they determine if it came with one), but I guess good news.
996's have hit or are approaching 25 years, which in NJ means it can get a "historic" plate and doesn't need a front plate. Somehow "historic" seems out of place with a 996, and I'm guessing most cops won't recognized that it's an older 911, so seems like you'd get pulled over for no front plate, at least till they see the rear historic plate.
Nice. I have a 99 M-Roadster at home (Boise) that I've had since new that never had a front plate. Luckily, I was never hassled for it (not that I drive it that much).
Personally, I have only seen 13-15 P-Cars in SE Idaho in 16 years! Only 4 were 911s. All the rest were $$ SUVs, not my cup of tea, coffee, pivo, etc..
Working on R&R CV joint boots, brake pads, etc. Discover axles fused to wheel carrier. My 20-ton press will not budge axle out. So now looking for used 996-Turbo wheel carriers, right and left. Not fun, but I won't put it back together with leaking, maybe worn badly CVs, etc.
PITA job in small garage. One side off, PB-Blaster, heat, whatever, no deal. Whatever, bite the bullet, continue, do it right. Might put new bearings in wheel carriers.
Someone else posted a discount link for Quick Jacks. I looked all over for sales that "Might" come up on Memorial day, did not find. 2 days ago ordered QJ 7000tl (Standard) from Pelican. Today find MEMORIAL 20% discount. Pelican won't change price, blah, so cancel Pelican. Place order with QJ direct and get the QJ 7000tl-Bundle for ~$300 less. Kool. Project on hold for now, but progress is immanent. Zero hassle with QJ 20% discount, it is on the QJ 5000 & 7000 versions. A good time time buy one.
YMMV
YMMV
I had a seized axle on one side of my targa. Penetrating oil, heat, and persuasion, plus a dollop of time (days), freed it. Obviously it depends on how much of each you are willing to invest. Also,
Kroil
Kroil
is what you want.
I saw this "freeze off" penetrant in the pits at Watkins Glen. Never used it before, but the concept seems promising. Added to my basket on Amazon. Reviews on Amazon are mostly positive, though a few said it didn't freeze at all.
I have Kroil -- which is supposed to be the gold standard -- but I haven't seen it be all that effective.
We used that when I worked at Lexus but its as a Wurth product. I know this is going to sound dumb but before we had those type of products, we'd invert a can of canned air and freeze bolts... then apply penetrant. No idea if it actually worked but I've never had a seized bolt not come out.
I've used CRC Freeze-Off for several stubborn bolts/nuts. It's a bit messy but it worked for me. I'm not sure it would be effective on something as large as a stuck axle shaft. Not enough BTUs.
Talk in the other thread about "squaring" up the front end of the 996 got to me so I quickly did a mock up and a sketch, next up would be getting it laid up and moulded.
I would also remove the piece that splits the radiator opening on each side which would allow more air flow. I'm looking for a cheap used one (front facia) to cut them out and fiberglass over to see what it would look like
I haven't done it yet, but have to give a deep bow or respect to Adrian at Adrian Taillights. I had originally inquired about an LED conversion for my 996.2. Since I wasn't comfortable taking the lights apart myself, I asked about installation - which came back as super reasonable. Then I got another email from him telling me I didn't really need to do it after all on my model - I could just take out the halogens and install the LEDs. Even offered to make a custom harness for me to make the wiring easier. Then yesterday he emailed again to tell me that I didn't need the harness after all. If that weren't enough, he also included a link to a video that he created just for me - describing and demonstrating exactly what to do. He even had my name on the title and in the video. To say I'm blown away by that service is obvious and I did tell him that he's more than earned his solid gold rep in this community. Once I get everything done - I'll post back some pictures with the end result.
I have also exchanged emails with Adrian, I think he is in Colorado, right? Can you share the link to his video? He does the custom hardness and he charges $950 for the hardness and includes installing the bulbs I purchased from RetrofitLabs.
My understanding is that the wiring itself comes apart and he creates a complete new set reusing the hella plug
Seems he also has a backlog of clients.
Washed it and put the bike rack on. I have the oem bike attachment but the Thule units on my Panamera are so much better. May have to get a couple more of those.
Not sure where he is - he never mentions. Here's the link - it's specifically for what I'm planning and he just goes through what goes to what and what I'll need to do to get it all set up.
https://vimeo.com/1089123942/fc21584336?ts=0&share=copy
Admired the difference newly installed Bilstein B8�s, H&R springs and 15mm Numeric spacers have made.
The ride isn�t that different than the factory M030 they replaced.
I have the NT710 but left it sitting on the shelf unused for too long (a year maybe) and the battery is totally dead and won't charge anymore.
I also have one of the $75 Chinese PIWIS3 clones and a spare laptop, and prefer that over anything else I've used (Foxwell, Autel, Durametric).
So far, I like it. Easy to use without reading the instructions. It came pre-loaded with Porsche. I got it to mostly check for cam deviation (which it does). No other codes right now or problems with the car so I can't gauge usefulness for now. I also have the Blue Driver and the Foxwell definitely gives more detailed data than the Blue Driver.
No experience with it, but there appears to be a replacement battery available for the 710 (though it sounds like you may not need it now with the PIWIS3) -
https://www.obd-scan-tool.com/batter...ner-p-3491.htm
I would love to see a comparison chart of what it supported and not supported across Foxwell, Autel, Durametric, PIWIS3, etc.
I have been advise not to do any paint correction as that will take layers of the car. My X50 has a bunch of tiny rock chips on the hood, and minor dings here are there. I have been given three options: 1) PPF entire car in black ($6k), 2) sand down and repaint the entire hood, 3) have some guy that specializes in correcting those defects ($$$$).
a professional will take paint readings and figure out the best least invasive step to make the paint look the best. My paint was dull and needed help. This is a pro with 30 years of experience so I wasn�t worried.
That is incorrect. The least I�d compound is 3.5mils and it depends on which paint. Sounds like an upsale or as we like to call it in the business.. the �FU price�.
This past weekend I helped my son refresh the suspension on his 997 C4S, consisting of all new coffin arms, tuning forks and rear upper control arms. Breaker bars and impact wrenches came in handy for all the high torque applications on the disassembly. Crows foot wrenches helped get the torque specs right on reassembly. 997s and 996s have just about the same suspensions as far as I can tell, so I don't think it's inappropriate to post it here!
Lots of work involved and then a trip to the alignment shop.
Now I know what to expect when it comes time to do the same on my 996!
Adjustable LCAs at Front
Adjustable LCAs at the rear
these cars have sooooooo much coolant. I had an air pocket after my uaos install that decided to show up after 500 miles. This time around I�m taking my time and days to be quadruple safe
Got my front wheel bearings done for $1149 on my c4s. Found out need cv axles replaced as well but I�ll do them myself. I hope not too bad of a weekend job. Oh great news he read my cam deviations and both are within 5/10 of norm. Have 118k on the odometer. I was gonna drop the engine this past winter to replace chain guides.
I replaced my previously replaced passenger side VW door latch with a used Porsche door latch as the locking system did not work with the VW part.
I was very happy as the door locks worked with the fob again…..for an hour! Then it malfunctioned again. The window drop function works as it’s supposed but my passenger door doesn’t lock. The little red security light isn’t flashing on the dash module. I will disconnect and reconnect the battery as per suggestions on here.
MORE endless hours of scrolling, searching and cursing.
New fan resistors on the front end, and new sway bar bushings on the back end!
PSA: Thank you to all the members who posted (in some cases many years ago) about how to test and replace your resistors- mine were both bad- and replace them inexpensively!
I was able to use 3M double sided extra strong hold tape to fasten the resistors to the frame. In the future I'll drill holes and add screws for good measure.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x343/img_0358_b59ea9fadd007d155d5dfe9f49e5b87fae13fbb8.jpeg
^^ Those resistors do get hot so the tape may not hold them� definitely use some wire clamps and maybe some type of heat sink (unless the resistors have the heat sinks on them already).
Had a driver's side mirror shaking while driving so I figured I'd see what's up. Took it off the mount (just pull up from the bottom left side) and saw that the mirror was delaminating from the base. A little bit of super glue, some chip clips and the shaking is mostly gone (still a little but not as noticeable).
I forgot to add. I also replaced the regen valve. A few weeks ago, the car wouldn't start after I went to the store (engine was warm, it would crank but no start). It only started after I put the gas pedal to the floor and tired to start it for 10 seconds. It finally started. After I got home, I checked for codes (none) but decided to take out the regen valve to test if it worked (tried to run air through but it was closed and holding vacuum as designed). Fast forward to this week when I got the P0446 code. I checked the gas cap (no cracks in the seal and the cap was only 4 years old). I took the regen valve off again and this time, I could blow air through it even when it was closed. I'm thinking that the valve is getting stuck some times which caused the P0446 code. I replaced it today with the same part from Pelican.
Went to replace the bulbs in the license plate light and the little clip that holds in place broke off from age. When I looked it closely, I could see it was a VW part with VW part number. I bought new lights but used the original screws because they original are SS and the new ones are not. If you look closely, you can see the scotch tape I had used to hold the old broken one in place. New part has both VW and Audi logos.
Replaced the 9+(!) year old H7 AGM with a Superstart H7 AGM, after a drawn out discussion w/ the clerk. The old battery seemed fine, but the car threw an odd code for the cam adjuster and all was fine when my Indy checked it out (deviations good, cam adjusters cycled properly, etc.) The car also had a stored low voltage code, so that along w/ the low mileage suggested some transient issue. So new battery time.
Actually getting the battery was an adventure as most references have the H6 battery listed for the car and clerk knew nothing about the DIN sizing vs. SAE to the point where I had to walk them through a Google search for "Oreilly's H7 AGM"...that resulted in "Oh, yeah we have that!".
Installed a Console Delete GT3 style bought from FB marketplace (a UK seller makes these. Excellent communication and super responsive. Shipped Thurs and arrived Tuesday in San Diego! By far the most affordable and best looking option even with shipping cost! I chose not to carpet it nor glue the two pieces (not necessary). Here is the ad and pics of my install below: wont let me post the FB link, just search in marketplace with this title “Centre Console Delete Kit Porsche 911 996 & Boxster 986 GT3 style Kit” / found it's also on Etsy:
Porsche Boxster 986, 911 996 GT3 Centre Console Delete Kit - Etsy
Good Point! I won't wait too long to fasten them more permanently. I'm on a mission to make sure my coolant temps stay in a reasonable range. Next up is a manual fan switch. I've seen others recommend a 160 degree thermostat, but I'm skeptical of its effect beyond the first 10 minutes of driving.
I got "used-new-to-me" wheel carriers for my 04' 4S. I did this cuz me/or shop could NOT get old front axle out to replace leaking CV joint rubbers. OK, put it all back together and also put in new Brembo "Low-Dust" pads. I put in new pad-wear sensor wire connectors. Nothing loose as far as I know. Now I have ABS light, brake warning lights.
What do I have to do to cancel ABS-Brake warning lights? Went for short "Bed-in" drive, brakes work just fine. I also have some strange noise now, maybe the "new-to-me" wheel carrier bearings? Thoughts, suggestions. It was a lot of work to replace the wheel carriers, I added coffin pieces and the angle-control-arm (whatever it is called).
Even a very short drive and I fall in love again with this 996 C4S. Nothing really special, just let it rev up a bit and it sounds fantastic and, in my opinion, gets out of its own way. There are a lot of hilly, curvy, twisty roads in my "up-scale SNOB" area, so it is cool to drive "The Long Way" home. A couple of Hondas/Toyotas wer ahead of me and clearly "pushing it". No problem. The 90* left turn coming up was mine, caught up to their bumpers. End of game. I loved it.
No matter my C4S is 20 years older, it still is very impressive. That is what Porsche builds, competent and very impressive ICE cars. I think something is lost in the new EV BS (JMO), sure faster, but not so much feed-back and driver connection. Maybe I'm wrong, but it is how I feel about it. Don't get me started on insane P-car pricing. I think an "Entry Level" P-car is a used one, not the BLOATED price of A/C P-cars, just the W/C ones. Rich geezers - old guys buy these new ones and do "Coffee & Cars". Whoopie, big deal. Drive the damn car and use it. OK, end of rant. It used to be PCA auto-x, rallies, tours, some HPDE, and so on. No more.
Whatever, YMMV Comments on the ABS stuff appreciated. I just got a Durametric- what to do?
The 160 degree thermostat works really well with the manual fan switch, and not only in the first ten minutes.
The lowest coolant temps I�ve ever seen with the regular thermostat is 92 deg C. With the low-temp thermostat, it�s 79 deg C. This situation will occur while on a 60 deg F day, with adequate air flow across my two side radiators (I don�t have a center rad). It will also occur at higher ambient temperatures while my radiator fans are manually switched on.
I don�t track the car, so I don�t think I�ll add a center radiator. I�m pleased with the performance of my current setup.
I believe the regular thermostat will begin closing when the temperatures drop below 94-ish deg C, whereas the low-temp will close around 82-ish deg C. The flow restriction ensures the coolant temperature never drops below a certain amount, as long as there is adequate airflow across the radiators. Obviously in stop-and-go traffic there is zero airflow, so the fans play an important role in keeping the airflow steady, especially during hot days.
I am getting my 2004 C4s with 106,000 miles ready for an 18 hour drive to the Rennsport Tail of the Dragon Rally this fall, I will be driving from South Dakota. I have been noticing a high pitched whine, I replaced all the idler pulleys and the belt and it is still there, while I had the belt off, the alternator sounded a little noisy, so I pulled it off and took it to a shop to have new bearings installed, I will report back when I get it back, to see if it was the issue.
QUOTE=Nein_11;15128559]Searched pretty throughly through the 996 forum to finbump a thread like this if it existed. I couldn't find one, so I thought I would start a new thread where people could share what they accomplished for the day without having to post their own new thread.
Its one of my favorite threads on the 997 forum ,as it is updated multiple times daily. Lets see if we can get this one bumping.
First post is a friendly PSA. Get that front bumper off and clean off those radiators. Car was cooling fine, and any cooling improvement remains to be seen, but man did it feel good to clean 20+ years out of my 99 C2. Having the bumper off is a great opportunity to respray any plastic thats faded with a black or a clear coat.
[/QUOTE]
Have the best plastic trim restorer on my shelf (Black Wow) but nothing is going to thoroughly rejuvenate twenty five year old plastics.
Ordered Porsche Crest Center Caps 993-361-303-10-9A1 x4
Windshield Cowl 996-572-563-04-01
Windshield Cowl Seal 996-572-931-00
Windshield Cowl Cap x2 996-572-569-00
and new F&R sway bar bushings
Already replaced all the bumper trim and lower rear wheel trim, so everything should be looking perfect now. 😄
Updated:
Fresh caps installed
Cowl, etc await install... you don't realize how faded this piece of trim is until you have a replacement next to it. Great refresh for $200.
>>Cowl, etc await install... you don't realize how faded this piece of trim is until you have a replacement next to it. Great refresh for $200.<<
For a lot less money and just a bit of time investment, a kit of Forever Black, some latex gloves and a sacrificial cloth soaked with 409 to immediately clean off boo-boos produces amazing results. You have to really clean/degrease the surface first, then massage it in with your gloved hand and do four or so coats to get it looking really great and even. Wait five minutes between coats for it to set up before starting a new coat. From what I can tell, it is basically a pigment stain. It has continued to look great for years on my other cars.
The point of the low temp thermostat isn't to keep the temperature low, but to prevent hot spots from forming in the runup to the thermostat opening all the way. The coolant channels in the M96 engine are narrow in sections and by opening the thermostat earlier, it allows coolant to circulate more freely until it reaches operating temp.
That makes perfect sense. I come from the LS world (last car was C5 Corvette) and never had issues with stock cooling system or overheating. The 160 stat isn't too labor intensive, and the DIY articles are clear enough. I'll just have to be very careful with getting all the air out of the system when I refill. Maybe I'll taake the opportunity to add some water wetter which had a beneficial effect on my old C4 Corvette, too.
I've been reading thru oil pressure threads and having nightmares about it, so currently debating if I really need to go UAOS on a mostly street car. How tough was the install?
I have been working on replacing axles, CVs, Pads on front of 4S. "Replacing" because can't get the axles out of wheel carriers, ice, heat, 20-ton press, nada, and a bummer. I bought used turbo wheel carriers and got the left (driver) side done. Now to the right side. But wait!!! If you look in the next 15 seconds you will be amazed and see such a badazz rendition of a "lifted C4S"! It is so cool, it makes you want to weep and get your hands greasy and oily! All the better to smooth out a few remaining hairs and cover the bald spot! It'll be so cool that friends will turn green with envy and want to jack up their nose-bleed high 4WD trucks!
Wrassled and fought the QJ demons, got rid of air bubbles, move stuff around, crawl to see what goes where and VIOLA! Up Up, but not Awaaaaay. BTW, I put orange tape on parts to remind me I did something like loosen bolts, doan forget, etc.
First time on QJ 7000TL.
Went from 120k mile manual seats...
to 38k mile 8-way power seats from a fellow PCA member...
Changed how the cars feels more than I expected. They look fantastic but I feel less connected to the road. Which, on some of our roads, is not a bad thing.
Old seats are going cheap. If you are in the SF Bay Area and are interested, send a PM
No question the UIDS will help with oil pressure, but so will the UAOS w/ Track Drain since it allows you to run up to 2 qts of oil over full which will help substantially with oil pressure. So will higher viscosity oil.
It should have been. The seat belt receptacles had been changed with wires cut and the power cable between the controller and the seat connector was missing.
New receptacles and fishing the wires and connector through to the seat plug fixed this part.
I made a cable to get power to the controller. It is unclearly shown in this thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ioned-car.html
I could not find the 1.5mm main power pins needed to use the seat connector, so clipped the power wires from the carside connector and used this connector from Deutsch through Amazon
I can't seem to paste the link, so here's the PN:
DTP2-WNP-10-KIT
So, would have been plug n play if the original wires were intact. The passenger side doesn't have the controller and wasn't missing anything and was plug n play.
Attempting to replace differential output seal,change diff oil, change Tip filter and fluid. Managed to remove the left rear wheel. All fasteners are very tight and I am weak. I can probably get the transmission bolts with better leverage but the diff is tough. Not much room. Any suggestions. Im thinking impact hammer. Its also hotter than ten bastards this weekend. In S.C.
Not sure what model you have, if regular or Turbo. Try a breaker bar with a pipe extention, else an impact wrench may help. I used breaker bar that was 18" long. On my TT, access is from the RR.
BTW and FWIW-
My C4S is stock height (I guess) and I do not think it has been lowered. I didn't measure, but like most Pcars, itis pretty low. The QJ 7000TL is a little higher when flat on the floor. Others said you need to have the larger rubber block in place to lift on "round lift points" so you won't bend the side rocker aero things in the back. CORRECT!
With the larger block in place on QJ, there is only 1/4" space in the back for the QJ. More room in front, so NBD. It could work easier if you put the QJ-Label/Heavy end around to the front, so maybe that is OK. Maybe not, cuz that is what QJ says/requires. Maybe the 7000 is more than enough to compensate for radial rise in wrong direction/load? Dunno. Can this be done with a 5000? again, dunno.
QJ has videos of around 16k pounds of steel on a QJ, maybe a 5000, or something heavier. I do know that according to QJ specs, the 7000 is "fatter" than the 5000, meaning it is higher on flat surface (concrete). I just don't want to have to drive up on 2"x8"/10"s to be able to use the QJ. PITA. Something to think about. Anyway, QJ is discontinuing the 5000 and 7000, replaced by 6000 and 8000. I guess cars (like the holiest of all cars - Porsche) are getting fatter.
And YES, be very aware of Radial Shift when lifting with a QJ. Bummer to hydraulicly slam garage door or not be able to close door. ALSO, NEVER get the Power/Pump unit near water. Total BAD idea & result.
YMMV
While not the slickest or approved way, you can use a floor jack and a wrench to get off tough nuts/bolts under the car. It is tedious, but works. Put proper size wrench on the bolt/nut and use floor jack to move it-the nut/bolt in the desired direction. Yes, is slow and required some space under car - like jack stands or a Quick Jack. No fun, but it can be done. I have not tried the "horizontal" ones, but the same sort of procedure can be done with a wrench and a Come-Along.
When you attempt to do suspension stuff, there will be massive ft/lb torque stuff, so just accept it and work around it. Remember, Torque is Cheap unless you are Torqueing to a Lawyer.
YMMV.
I finished detailing the transmission before reinstallation. It was one of those rabbit holes that are very difficult to climb out of, but it looks much better now than when it came out.
Checking tire pressure and noticed the shield on one rear wheel was a bit loose, pulled on it slightly and it came off. Tried the rest and the one on the other rear wheel was slightly loose so I pried it off with a screwdriver. Scraped whatever the adhesive remnants were off and stuck them back on with JB weld.
Same, never been a fan of 'permanent' coatings for that reason. Darkening faded trim is great but the shiny final finish really isn't to my liking.
Personally use either Poor Boys trim enhancer or
Black Wow by Richard Lin
. I met Richard years ago at a MINI event in Las Vegas and he explained to me how he created the final product without leaving that nasty oily finish.
If you're fussy like me, it's difficult to achieve that
brand new
perfectly dark, satin finish on plastics. Best thing to do is apply rejuvenation products from new to keep them looking perfect while detailing or replace the faded trim.
I use a trim product on customer�s cars from Detail Studios. It�s good for about a year but obviously area dependent. The UV index in Miami is pretty high and have several customers who live in condos adjacent to the beach.
https://detailstudioproducts.com/products/trim-solution
Oddly enough I loathe shiny tire dressing and die inside whenever someone requests I use on their car.
I got the shaft loose and changed the seal. Two bolts at a time. Find the best position,remove two, rotate, remove. Ths fill plug for the diff is the king bitch.
New tires aren�t shiny and neither are race tires. It looks like a Tonka toy truck to me. If you ever get a chance to attend a Concours event, look at the tires of every car there� they�ll 100% have a satin �like new� sheen to them.
Appearance aside, not all of dressings will dry evenly so a lot of the time you�ll have to use more product to cover the tire which will eventually sling. I use 3D Matte tire shine or Aero Cosmetics Matte dressing.
If I have to use a gloss dressing, I use Griots. It�s more like a dry film vs an oil like most dressings on the market.
I attended a Porsche Club of America "Tech Tactics" event earlier this year. A Michelin engineer gave a talk on N spec tires which was very interesting. In the Q&A session someone asked about tire dressings and the engineer said something to the effect of "please don't use them -- we spend a lot of effort protecting the rubber from UV rays and those dressings damage that protection." Since then I've stopped using tire dressings.
[QUOTE=TheChunkNorris;20105799]New tires aren�t shiny and neither are race tires. It looks like a Tonka toy truck to me. If you ever get a chance to attend a Concours event, look at the tires of every car there� they�ll 100% have a satin �like new� sheen
totally agree! I hate the tire shine/armor all stuff. Even worse when used inside.
Found a local set of 996.1 headlights that were in 5/10 condition but the headlight lens were not too terribly burnt. A quick polish and clear coat and they were presentable (at least from 10 feet away). I installed them and will be sending my current set to Adrian for conversion to Bi-LED.
This set must've been in an accident car as there are debris inside the headlight.
Polishing using Sylvannia's Headlight Restoration Kit
Installed.
The car's original headlights (burnt lenses) heading out for retrofit.
Thanks for the info. I use the 3d Matte tire dressing which I really like but let me look into the griots.
Also those TEs look awesome! I found a 18' set with widebody specs in the RT version that im trying to get my hands on.
Oh man that�d be awesome! Bro I love my TEs and had them on most of my cars over the years with my 996 being the hardest ones to find.
Griots also makes a satin spray on that works well too. Not sure how you apply the dressing but I usually use a tire dressing brush like this.
https://a.co/d/3CDFDHX
I don�t use the 3D(I use Aero cosmetics) on my Touareg because I wash it every week and gets driven the most. To apply on bigger side walled tires I use a short handle carwash brush. I rarely spray any dressings directly on the tires
https://a.co/d/29ki2pA
Got the interior pieces I recovered or made in Alcantara installed along with new FF shifter cables and Shift Right kit. Got 245K miles out of the originals that were not really as bad as I thought they were.
I re-did a cracked wooden OEM ****, but had to swap back to the Rennline **** I love after first test drive
Probably because my Panamera has Alcantara A-,B-, and C-pillars the change still has a very OEM feel. Doesn�t seem �custom� at all, so I am in the works for a sweet set Pole Positions to finish up the interior. (Unless I decide to put the Alcantara dash Im working on in)
My oil pressure sensor was flakey and I swapped it out� I was a little concerned as it would barely tighten more with a wrench after I turned it on by hand. But when I fired up the car and took it for a drive there wasn�t any leakage and the pressure is now reliable.
Also replaced my hood struts� it would stay up when you put it all the way up but they weren�t helping much beyond that.
Any concern with the alcantara covering the airbag? I would be a little hesitant about that impeding the functionality of the airbag in a crash......otherwise the inside looks great.
I did think about that. The Alcantara I used on the airbag is unbacked and actually tears pretty easily. Thats why it�s a slightly different shade than the wheel cover that�s a thicker backed material. If it was any thicker I would have scored it from the back around the same lines of the bag that will blow out if it goes off.
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Kind of a dull post compared to most in here, but I replaced both the cabin and engine air filters today. Also replaced the strut on the engine lid.
She is going in the shop on Wednesday for an oil change, brake fluid flush, spark plugs and coils and I saved $240 by installing these few simple parts myself.
Filters didn't look bad considering that according to my receipts they haven't been replaced in at least 9 years...!
I made a quick video of my throttle body, and it looks pretty clean to me, but what do I know?
Would you guys agree?
<div style="padding:56.25% 0 0 0;position:relative;"><iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/1097187907?h=1f6a3ac89b&badge=0&autopause=0&player_id=0& app_id=58479" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen; picture-in-picture; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; web-share" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:100%;height:100%;" title="Throttle body"></iframe></div><script src="https://player.vimeo.com/api/player.js"></script>
So damn hot and humid here started at 8:15AM finished up at 11:30AM, washed and detailed car in driveway with strong Florida sunshine 😀. Checked all fluids, tire air pressures, cleaned all glass, and vacuumed interior, put it back in garage, then went in house and destroyed two Gatorades. Time to watch F1 qualifying recording 👍
Rich
Don't know if you haven�t already but man� AC in the garage was the best upgrade I�ve done. I can relate because I�m in Miami and down the road from Black Pointe Marina which gets spicy.
I have $5,000 in the budget for this based on
some info from people here
. In spite of coming up on two years at the new place, I still haven't done any serious wrenching here as I still had access to the old place. I've found that in spite of being 4 miles further inland, it never has seemed unbearably hot in the garage as there is nice afternoon sea breeze that comes up from Mission Valley. I'm almost thinking I will use the heat function more. In spite of being in SoCal, there are still some cold days in the winter. I admit I'm a wuss, but I can't imagine working in anything other than shorts and a t-shirt.
I live 2miles from the local marina and there�s usually a nice breeze for most of the day. My issue is my house faces East and gets baked, the inside of my garage door is hot to the touch so the AC is set to 75� year round. One thing I noticed immediately humidity control, especially when polishing and coating cars.
The one unexpected benefit was when my house AC died at 1am on a Sunday morning, I pulled out a cot and slept in my garage� extremely comfortable.
As with ChunkNorris, I too live in the Miami area (Coral Gables). Don't have a garage but do have a nice large 3 car carport. Reason for carport, is that idiot architect did not read the rules about CG. Anyway, I got myself a portable A/C and a powerful fan from Dewalt. I am on my third A/C, not because they went bad, but because they were not working as expected. Start with an 8K BTU, then 10k BTU now 6K BTU. Seems the smaller one works best and best of all, it it from Amazon Reconditioned, which has a 90 day return..
Anyway, as long as I point the cold air in the right direction (Me), it is good. Going to explore enclosing at least part of the carport and pump air in.
I didn�t realize you were local. If you aren�t already aware, there�s a smaller 996 group called Fried Eggs that I�m part of. If you need a hand or need a garage at some point let me know. I detail out of my garage and will start mobile detailing here soon. Also help my buddy�s out when they need another hand while getting car projects completed.
Need to update my profile. I though I had with location.
Anyway, I have almost a full setup. Quicklift and all. More tools than I know what to do with :-) Love to get involved with other FriedEggs. I have two 996's both Cabs, 1) X50 TipS and 2) TT 3P with hardtop.
I live about a mile from UM off Lejeune.
Will send you a PM and thanks for the offer.
Same as Rich above. Sweltering weather but got the goods done. A bit of a present since on Thursday went to 150,006 miles. It looks pretty good for that.
Installed ArtnD leather wrapped center console
I�ve been focused on the interior lately, I already upgraded the tired OEM door handles and map pocket lids with carbon fiber and replaced the stock shifter with an OEM carbon fiber shifter, carbon fiber ebrake to match shifter
next on the roadmap are upgraded houndstooth seats and a premium leather wrapped center console/thickening of the OEM steering wheel, and a painted console
Before
After
Current interior
great looking. They are expensive. If they sell these for what is listed on their site, I wonder how much would the entire center be? BTW, where are they located?
Had a great time this past weekend competing in the SCCA Flag Rock Hillclimb in Norton, VA.
Great thing about keeping a plate on the car is exploring back roads.
--Aaron
You Tube
I sold it. As much as I liked my car, my wife hated it. She hated how low it was, how loud it was, how rumbly it was, and how it shifted.
All of the fun adventures with the car I had originally envisioned were never going to happen. I�m not in a place at my life to have a $30k hunk of metal in the garage and not be able to really enjoy it.
Very sad to see it go, but maybe someday, I can get another one.
My friend, let me tell you a very true story. Back in 2001, I had decided to stop racing. The decision was my own. So I told the wife I was going to get a motorcycle. She said "sell the race car, get your bike". So I did. I gave her the check and then went looking for a bike. During the serach she came to me and said "you get a bike and I will divorse you!" Found a gorgeous Italian Readhead, Ducati 900 SS and bought it. It got home and she confronted me saying "I cannot believe that after I told you I would divorse you, you went ahead and got it!". 9 months later, I gave her the papers of the divorse that I initiated and three months later, I bough a BMW R1100S, then a K1200 RS.
Moral of the story, don't make threads and brake promises.
I then found a new lady and she supports all of my bad habits. Car, that is. So we have an agreement, she does not tell me what I can do with my money, and I don't tell her either. I just shower her with jewelry and Loui V purses.
Life is wonderful in South Florida
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It�s all about getting their perspective right� my 911SC has stiff suspension, no cat and a fabspeed supercup muffler. Supposedly it shakes the house when I fire it up and it does scream pretty loud at high RPM. The 996 seems like a Rolls Royce in comparison.
Having said that the muffler bypass pipes for the 996 are sitting in the garage waiting for me to get around to it. Expect it will still be a bit tamer than the SC as long as it has cats.
My long time GF(8yrs now) doesn't like my 996 at all but oddly enough she finds the Audi to be "cute" in its 450whp+ glory, the AC is amazing and that's what she likes. With that said the concept of having more than one car is crazy to her and her parents give me crap about it all the time. My saving grace is I participate in her and her son's hobbies without any complaints.
Bought some more goodies for the 996, for some reason the Works Bell hub adapter didn't line up with the steering shaft and now I got a Rothsport unit from Rennline... Hope it works with my steering wheel set up. Wanted to drop this little nugget in here too as far as tools are concerned. I used a couple Crow's Feet when doing the suspension on the 996 and my VW(Worst suspension I've ever worked on in my life by the way). I recently found these from Tone;
Amazon
Amazon
Gets into really tight spaces and can be attached to an extension or a breaker bar, turn the head 90 degrees and then you have a ratcheting crows foot.
Not a chance. A regular Snap On crow’s foot set is almost $400 with the Blue Point offering being $250, neither have adjustable heads either. Japanese steel is amazing and lately I’ve been sticking to US, German or Jpn made tools.
When my wife and I first hooked up, my car was sitting on four jackstands with the front bumper and rear decklid missing as I was switching them over to GT2 pieces. They were at the paint shop for a few weeks, and I was wrenching on the car while it was up in the air. She wasn't, and still isn't, a car person and didn't really understand what I was doing. As it sat for weeks, she started calling it a Rubbish Car as it appeared to be in a state of disrepair. That was 13 years ago and to this day, we still refer to it as "The Rubbish Car." It's a term of endearment....
I finished a four solid day stint cleaning up the transmission cave. Came up nice. No dry ice, just cleaners, rags and brushes. I'll aim to get the transmission back in over the weekend.
Very flattering, thank you. I'm in the UK, though.
This is all one time only work as I gradually work through a car I'm told is a bit special, so I just want to elevate it as far as I can whilst maintaining originality, an owners passion if you will.
When I was looking for mine, I hesitated saying anything to the spouse but eventually had to. To my surprise, she threw her arms around me telling me that I deserved it and get it. Damned if she didn't bring an open bag of onions with her too! Seriously, I've been very lucky - she doesn't understand it - just that it's important to me and that's enough.
Today I got these sweet Pole Positions I picked up from a fellow Rennlister installed with CMS mounts to finish up the interior updates for the time being. Tested them out with 40 miles of twisty NC backroads. Freaking love them at this point! Just have to figure out the passenger airbag warning plug workaround, as I�m sure there is a thread somewhere on here for that.
Also rolled past 245K while I was out!
Thanks.
I gave everything an initial clean to get the easy stuff, oil and grease etc off by using a trigger sprayer and drenching everything in mineral spirits, as this breaks down the grease really well whilst being very inert. I used various detailing and wheel brushes to agitate and try to get in as many gaps and crevices as possible.
A second spray down with mineral spirits then washes away the bulk of the dirt.
From there I then repeated the process with a powerful water based degreaser we have in the UK called Surfex HD from a company called Bilt Hamber Laboratories which is great at removing the mineral spirits and further ingrained dirt.
After a second spray and soak with the degreaser, I then went over everything meticulously with steam cleaner which really helps drive the dirt particles out from the various brackets, clamps, clips, corrugated conduits and any other more intricate assemblies.
After this stage it's pretty clean, other than any heavier set cosmoline or baked on dirt in any tight crevices within the texture of the yellow underseal. To remove this I had to resort to solvents. Whilst acetone and isopropanol kind of help, cellulose thinners (I think you guys call it lacquer thinner) is the one that really cuts through the cosmoline, yet does not damage any of the substrate or plastics. At this stage it's just a very slow and painful process of going round every square inch with the thinners a fine brush and various rags until there is nothing left to remove and you could wipe it over with a clean white cloth and it would pick up zero dirt or marks.
From there I spent a good while cleaning up the aluminium water pipes using a variety of 3M abrasive pads to remove any surface tarnish or light corrosion, finishing up with a fine grey pad which feels equivalent to about 1,500 grit, making sure to make the last passes all in the same transverse direction to give an appropriate finish and aesthetic.
After that it's just a case of then going round anything plastic or rubber and dressing with appropriate detailing products to nourish and protect.
I'll then finish off with a light mist coat of protectant clear matt wax to make future cleaning a simple case of hosing down should it ever get dirty. Not that dirt s part of my plan.
I'm over in Winston and do a motor break in loop up to Sparta and down Roaring Gap- on longer rides I will come down through Wilkesboro/421. Any favorite roads or loops out there?
I have the PP in my car, the one thing I don't like is I use the stock seat belt recepts. plugged into the car (no light), but they aren't long enough and the PO installed questionable seat belt extenders. I've heard the answer is the GT3 seat belt recepts from the 997 but they're around $500/each now.
--Aaron
You should look into seat belt receptacles from other Porsche models, like the Cayenne and Panamera. You could also try receptacles from Volkswagens and Audis. Generally, the longer receptacles are found in their SUV models, but even the luxury sedans will have longer ones too.
You'll have to wire up the connector to fit the 996 though.
This is my favorite local loop around Wilkesboro I have on the Porsche Roads app: Brushy Mountain Trail West Loop
https://roads.porsche.com/content/en...rail-west-loop
�Its literally around the corner from me, and really only a couple more miles west on 421 from Roaring Gap road. Next time you swing through l�ll run it with you
Im using the stock receptacles also. The CMS mounts let me offset the seats outboard from center so there aren�t any belt receptacle clearance issues to the console to go over the bolster. I assumed my airbag warning is the child car seat deactivation/occupancy/plug connection on the passenger side, because I have the belt receptacles plugged back into the harnesses. The longer 997 GT3 ones (right=
99780318311
) are like $500 each
I made some receptacle covers from scrap Alcantara to protect the bolsters
figured out the airbag failure warning issue�. Two things:
1. Receptacle plug can go in two ways once out of the factory seat harness. I initially had it 180 degrees flipped.
2. The airbag deactivation plug assembly that came on the passenger side needed a 2.2k resistor jumped back into the plug. I could have reinstalled it but it would be in the way of the slider release bar.
hope this info helps someone else in the future
I cleaned out my radiators yesterday. I apply plastic restorer to the radiator housing.
Today, I pulled the convertible top hydraulic rams. Going to send them out Monday to
Cabriolet Hydraulics
for a rebuild. The pump looks ok.
I cleaned up the rear hubs, installed them into the new wheel bearings in the hub carriers ready for reassembly, after also restoring all the original hardware.
Occasionally, if the roads are bone dry. I look at it a bit like cosmetic surgery - it can turn back the hands of time, but the clock still ticks.
It'll pick up dirt again along the way, but starting with the clean canvas makes keeping it fresh much easier.
I got tired of others in the local PCA chapter reminding me that I had a brake light out, so I bought a pack of bulbs and decided to DIY. It was ridiculously simple - it took longer to find the 10mm socket needed than it did to replace the dead bulb and button it back up. I'd been avoiding the chore due to experience with the '87 Mercedes 560SL that I had. Porsche is much simpler.
Today I installed the manual fan switch that I read about in this post:
https://986forum.com/forums/diy-proj...em-switch.html
Instead of using a genuine Porsche switch, I used a remote control switch with a wireless relay. I used the instructions from the cited post to adapt the switch to the parts I bought. When I'm not using it the fans respond to the ECU. I used my Blue Driver OBD dongle to see what the temps were doing, and like others have said, the correlation between the gauge and reality is not exactly linear.
I love my Porsches, but I don't have the patience to do cleaning to that depth, at least on the underside of my cars. My hat is off to you sir, great work !
Today I got the rear suspension built back into sub-assemblies ready to be refitted once the rear wheel arch detailing is complete.
I'm about 90% the way there now but still have a few nooks and crannies to get the very last little bits of grime from, but it's look good so far.
LOL!!! One thing is for sure, if I EVER got crazy enough to detail my car like that, she would never be driven on the street again and wind up a trailer queen..............For SURE !
There’s been some discussion about the GT3 wheel well liners over on Chunk’s thread. I put them on yesterday. I have the aero bumper and GT3 brake ducts (on GT3 coffins) already. The holes for the plastic rivets do not all match. The left side needed a lot of fussing to get the upper right screw to mate with the hole on the upper liner. The lower screw fittings for the underbody on left requires a repositioned hole. On the left I got 5 screws/rivets to secure, plus the tight interference fit. Right side matched up fine except for the two interior spots. The air channels match up nicely to the GT brake ducts.
Tech tips: I only removed the top and bottom screws of bumper cover…the one behind the turn marker and the one at the outside of the flap at wheel arch. Remove the 10mm plastic bolt on upper liner so you can move the screw holes around to meet up with the new liners. I probably could’ve saved time and swear jar contributions if I had pulled out the heat gun for the left side upper inside corner. I can’t say how these would do on a regular bumper cover. I can say these are very stout and will be much more durable than the older, wimpy ones. These aren’t super expensive, as 996 parts go.
I’d already removed some ABS from the back of the fan shroud. Big difference in air gap (see below). Note the very different shape of the new liner. The plastic is much thicker. There’s more room for the wheel to turn. I don’t expect any rubbing at full lock with 18’s or 19’s. GC996…yes, I have the Tarett dive planes and made my own deflectors. I used taped yarn and a big leaf blower to get visual flow. They work pretty good with the deflectors. I was worried about the transition from the banking to the flat at Nashville Superspeedway, cuz I’m doing 120 there…zero issues. I think the front end aero is working. Siberian14…do these photos help you visualize? I taped over the three air exits under the car. Next, I’m figuring out where the best place is to mount a high speed fan switch inside.
I recorded my highest brake temps from last track session. Next time out, I’ll be able to get data from this setup to see if the brakes are staying cooler longer.
New vs old
RH side. The aluminum tape is to cover the unused rivet holes. 3rd tape spot is where I made a boo boo. I put a camera in after install to see if there’s any room to run 2” air via a NACA duct attached to one of the underbody panel holes routed to the brakes. Nope. Not from what I could tell.
LH side.
I just clicked on Suncoast's listing and the picture has the same unit that @hatchetf15 has, it's probably not the correct visual representation of the actual GT3 ones and could be GT2 units?
Glad you got it to fit.
Yeah, I gotta say that finding the 996 GT3 radiator/fender liner pieces has been very difficult. Dont know why the parts suppliers have made it difficult. Even finding a diagram or pictures has been tough. Some of the problem has been superseded parts numbers.
Thanks for the info. I am going to figure out all the parts for the GT3 wheel liner from the radiator thru the upper brake ducts next month to see its effect on the airflow and cooling. And then consider the Tarret part. Like I said in the previous post, this has been a wild goose chase trying to find part numbers that are accurate.
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Old school aerodynamics testing, take tuff of wool yarn and have someone drive next to the car and take pictures.
Now days with easy access to video, it's even easier.
I've considered doing that with my various rear decks to see how the air flows for each.
Since you mention it, I also plan that to compare this Ruf spoiler to the GT3 lid. Should be interesting cuz Alois apparently had access to Porsche aero facilities back in the day. His spoiler profile kinda looks like a cross between the 993 tea tray and the 996 turbo deck.
Painting some wheels with Wurth German Silver spray paint. I sanded the primer with 400 grit to pretty smooth finish and cleaned with a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. The silver paint looks puffy after a few coats. I don't think I am doing anything wrong. Perhaps the paint is old? It's not a smooth glossy finish like I had hoped for.
Wurth is a lacquer paint, and (from memory) it needs to go on in several thinner coats than you would use with something like Rustoleum spray paints. The Wurth silver wheel paint is intended to be followed by Wurth clear coat. If your silver coat doesn't have any surface imperfections, applying the clear coat to that should add the gloss finish you expect.
I think thin coats are needed with the Wurth clear also, but it's been a while since I used it. If you get any orange peel in the clear, it can be wet-sanded out (with 1000/2000/3000), but I think you'll generally get a smooth clear surface if you make sure to use only thin coats.
.
Thanks but I'm not a car show kind of guy, so the only person who will ever likely see it will be the next owner. I've done this purely for my own satisfaction.
As others have stated you're going to need to add a coating and I recommend a 2K coating, it has a hardener in it and it's self leveling. I used an aerosol touch up paint kit and then followed up with the 2K clear, applied 2 or 3 coats. Here's what it looked like post leveling for an hour. Wear a respirator and have the best air circulation possible when applying it.
I don't have a front shot pic but you can see the shine off the parking block.
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Thank you both very much. I have some clear coat but not sure if it is self leveling. I think my main problem was spraying the wheels with them facing up and me holding the can horizontally spraying down. I sanded the wheels down (this has to be at least the 3rd time!) and will stand them up for final coat. The Wurth paint was rock hard which is promising at least.
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Replaced all four brake discs, pads, anti-squeal shims, caliper springs and pins, wear sensors and all eight caliper retaining bolts with new Brembo (discs and pads) and
genuine Porsche components. Most of it straightforward and I was lucky that all eight caliper bolts came out with no issues. About half of the disc retaining screws needed a screw extractor to free them and the front left caliper pin had to be cut out in five sections with a Dremel to allow the old pads to be removed and then a serious whacking with a long parallel punch to drive out the remaining stub of the pin. I had a bad feeling that I might need to remove the caliper and take it to a machine shop to have the stub pressed out but I persevered. It’s been eight years since the discs and pads were last replaced. The pads were down to around 3mm all round. On the subsequent road test, the brakes are now much less wooden, needing less effort and they can be modulated much better. Very pleased and the cost of all parts was under �600 and my labour comes free!
Polished her up and introduced her to new friends at the PCA Parade in OKC last week. I'm mostly in the mode where the work is done and I can just enjoy the car. (But there's always something.)
Thanks, but that is not what you had in the photo and wonder whether or not it can be retrofitted to a Tip bezel. With check with my contact at Suncoast
I found an old set of 5 spoke light weight Carrera wheels and tires in the man cave
Sold my last 996 so these have to go
In Member to member for sale forum
https://rennlist.com/forums/for-sale...and-tires.html
Honestly,I didn't care. The car was in very good condition and 1 owner. I've had plenty of manuals and just wasn't that concerned about it. I just thought this looked nicer, that's all.
Available from Amazon for $37.99 and free ship for Prime, plus 30 day returns.
GEARWRENCH 6 Pc. 3/8" Drive Impact Driver Set - 1140D - Screwdriver Impact - Amazon.com
GEARWRENCH 6 Pc. 3/8" Drive Impact Driver Set - 1140D - Screwdriver Impact - Amazon.com
The paddle shifters make all the difference, I did that about 2 years ago. What also helps is installing the Mercedes blue top solenoids, really firms up the shift points. Like your flat bottom wheel.
That is a cool location. I have a spare on the left side on my Turbo. How difficult was it to run the cables from the ECU (I am guessing) to the front cluster?
I too had an open switch on the left side but I couldn�t see it with my hands on the wheel.
The hardest part was getting around my roll bar behind the seats (said my Indy) for the install.
Thanks for the advice! I’ve already got one and it didn’t get the screws out, unfortunately. I bought this and it did the job extremely well.
https://trenddirectuk.com/power-tool...JJYUdtxmlFzGTb
For the rotor screws.....all u have to do is drill the head, remove the rotor and just spin the screw out with plyers. The taper of the screw is what seizes to the rotor not the threads into the wheel hub. A very small amount of antiseize on the taper (not threads) will help in the future.
Doing borescope inspection (I tried through the sump and gave up so plug holes will have to do).... 1-3 look good so far. 4-6 later on today. In pulling the coils and plugs I think these are the originals but was hoping you guys could confirm? The bolt are short and the part numbers lead me to believe these are probably the ones that came in the vehicle.
Car is at 75k miles. No issues but I can't say i've enjoyed removing all this so I'd rather put fresh coils and plugs in and never do that again Lol
Those are the old/original coils. The newer 997 coils should come with the correct bolts. You will have to move the heat shield out to use the taller newer coils.
OK, here's your laugh for the day... I bought C4S in 115F-122F weather in SW desert area. All windows ('cept windshield) are dark tinted, A/C was killer-good, great idea, loved it. No issues for 1000 mile drive home.
I finished replacing 95% of the front suspension on my 04 C4S- axles. Wheel carriers (couldn't get old axles out of W/C parts! (20-ton Press DID NOT WORK!)
, CV boots, LCAs, Tuning Fork things, Tie-rods, Sway bar links, ABS sensors, difficult lower plastic panel clips, new (didn't really need them) brake pads -maybe lower dust, wheel spacers, studs, cleaning radiators & A/C condensers and so on. I refinished/restored 18" Carrera III wheels, added new tires, fixed frunk/engine pull wires, fixed seat belt lock problem, disabled annoying H/L washer and Auto Windshield wipers, just stuff. On to alignment! It is pretty hot today, 85F-90F, full sun. A/C works fine, P did something right for improvement.
OK, alignment was done, no real issues in front, camber front messed up by me-etc, rear was off by itself. All corrected, everybody in the little green ditch on re-align. I talked with fellow doing align, yakked, OK on observations, things OK. Got kicked out of "service area" by "the wicked witch".
I get the car back and IMMEDIATE notice no A/C! Crap! I told the align place DON'T TOUCH ANY BUTTONS!! I have had the car for 7 months, mostly up in air (now done on Quick Jacks) fixing the front end. I do NOT touch buttons bc I don't know what they do or don't do. A/C worked fine B4, now zero. Total driving - just get the car home then maybe 4-5 six times out, gas, going nowhere, etc. I have not figured out how the radio and all that stuff works, I was busy doing "Wrench Stuff".
I get home, it is hot. Me, the car, the temp. I look at Bentley manual for reasons A/C doesn't work. Maybe a fuse or something simple I hope. No Indy here. I notice the picture with controls and displays. There is the little button lower left side "A/C On-OFF". Give that a try. Start car, push that button and VIOLA! IT WORKS AGAIN!. I never pushed any buttons bc I had nannie horns going off, of doors locking, and other annoyances. I just wanted big stuff to work, mechanical - the other doo-dahs for later.
Anyway, a simple button turned OFF A/C and I did not know it - how to turn On or OFF for that matter. I keep reading Bentley and "User Manuals", learning as I go along. But YES, I have torque wrenches and ALOT of older P-tools, no strangers. Maybe this is funny for some, but REAL if you have no idea how some of these things work. Anyway, laugh for the day, it's Miller-Time.
YMMV
Don't feel bad. This spring my son and I were out for a quick run around and a really light rain started. Only misting really. I forgot how to enable the delay wipers. After several minutes we finally hit on the right combination on the stalk and the **** on the dash.
I guess I should re-review the owner manual in the spring.
Doug
It�s the silly little stuff�.. don�t feel bad, you got home the 1000 miles before your first panic. I bought my Cayman S in Chicago, in January, minutes before a snow storm�.. and had to get it to Boston��. Couple hours into the drive, I stop at a gas station in Indiana�.. old station, had to pay inside��. I go back out to pump gas, and I can�t get the gas cap door to open��. Had to go inside and google it, and it�s so simple it took a while to find a reference to having the car unlocked,�� ugh!
-Eric
04 996 (with the snow flake button on all the time!)
I had that "Rain Sensing Wiper" deal on trip to home @ 100F. Common to have some sort of storm in mountains/desert even in high heat. I had to stop to read how to disable it.
Gas Cap. Same deal. Locked, why? Who TF knows? 500 miles to go, open the damn thing. I just pried it open and went from there. After... I learned (read) about pull wire, went on from there. Dumb.
I thought it was a "sun" button". Whatever, A/C works, but I am still reluctant to push/press any buttons. German minds are devious. And for PorscsheTech3, humor appreciated. I clean wrenches B4 putting them away.
Life learning about a 996. Still a blast to drive, keep hands on steering wheel. Comments appreciated.
YMMV
I had the misfire code on cylinder number two. Just changed my coils and plugs, well four of six for now, the coils were original, the plugs were changed by the previous owner and those plugs were not made for a 996!
80,000 miles. Check out the cracks. Number three coil had black electrical tape holding the tube together (red pencil). I�m glad I was slow and careful pulling that coil off the plug!
I�m embarrassed (almost) how much difference changing those coils and plugs made to the power and response to the car. Oh Wow, so THIS is what a 996 3.6 feels like.
Not a Porsche story - but I got a new car once, stopped down the road to get gas and couldn't start the car. Had to call the dealer to find out I needed to push in the clutch first.
I feel your pain. I didn�t know how to pop the trunk on my B5 S4 without unlocking and pushing the release with a key. Had to freaking google where the interior release was� can you guess where they placed it? A small button on the lower B pillar. Why on earth would they put it there?!
I used to think my car was reasonably clean for 26yo and 40k on the odometer but I'm nowhere near being in the same ballpark as you. And you did it by hand, not dry ice.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_4604_c8c316ddffa445be500751fe272e0d899878d2f3.jpeg
Dude , your car is going to be like " Better than new !!! ""........
( Note :; I washed Sally for the first time in I don't know when, and she was looking SO good, but then I come in here........and see yours....lol )
Can't compete with Interference Fit, but I managed to install some shiny bits in the form of a new water pump and thermostat this weekend. Fortunately the old pump looked like it was intact. The middle right side bolt of the pump was a real PIA. Harder to put back in than take out. I stared at my tool box for a while and came up with this contraption.
It worked great once I got everything aligned.
Then, not sure if it did anything but tried to suck the air out of the system with this gizmo. If nothing else, it held vacuum while I was cleaning up so hopefully its all leak free.
Swapped in a pair of
expanding rubberized nuts
that attach the factory amp to the trunk lining. Mine had completely failed, and my indy mentioned they can make noise.
More importantly though I picked up an Icon G2 1/2" Flex Ratchet for the lug bolts. 🏁
Finally bought a rack long enough to get my mtn bike on the car. Road biking around work at lunch has become really dangerous so I've changed to mtn biking on my way to work.
Absolutely! Will do! Bike long enough and you'll have stories. One guy in our group got clipped by a truck, collarbone. Another guy hit by another truck and got his hand run over. Long time fixing that. Saw another guy go off the edge of a big downhill in a ride called(get this) "The Death Ride". My injuries have been self inflicted, once on a mtn bike and once on the road bike. Tib/fib break. 2 plates, 23 screws. And still we ride...
I've thought about getting bars for my C2 but the trucks are just so much more convenient for riding when I have to carry all my gear as well. What tray are you using (I may still get the bars)?
You
DO
realize that, in your fourth picture, there is a tiny bit of dust in the grout between one of your garage floor tiles.
Come on man, get your act together !!!
Aw dude, I've not mopped the floor in about 6 weeks and it's driving my nuts!
My brother-in-law once said to me when he was helping me lift an RSJ into position as I was knocking through a wall in my house "at this level of cleanliness, we'll be here all week, can we PLEASE leave the clean up until the end?"
Thanks, it's a labour of love.
I use a pretty large variety of products, tools and chemicals depending on the substrate. Is there a particular area of interest?
I was joking, obviously, but it seems certain that you would LOVE the robot mop below. It works insanely well -- it mops continuously for 2-3 hours per charge -- just let it loose in the room/garage.
Amazon
Amazon
Yep, trucks are great for hauling stuff. If I had an extra place to park I'd have one.
The rack over the drivers side is the Porsche Tequipment tray. Road bike fits fine, it has a shorter wheelbase. The passenger side is the Thule TopRide. The bike wheelbase is 1251mm and the spec on the rack is max 1250mm. The Thule FastRide is the shorter tray, similar to the Tequipment tray. I bought both racks off Craigslist at half retail price. There's alot of them out there. This one was like new. I couldn't tell it had ever been used.
Yeah, I got hit by truck mirror from behind. Lucky I had a backpack w/books on so the impact and fall wasn't so bad. Still, collarbone, knee, etc. Insurance had to rebuild the bike, wouldn't get a new one.
Oh, and "The Death Ride"... Tour of the California Alps, 5 Mountain Passes, 15000 feet of climbing, and ~156 miles, 1 day. Length/passes may be different if construction changes route. $$ entry funds MArkleville schools, etc. CA Highway Patrol closes roads on mountain passes, no car traffic. Lots of SAGS and fuel/drink stops at mountain pass tops. Starts at campground elevation 6000', drops to 5000' Markleville, then on to the passes: Monitor 8314 - two times, up one side down the other and back up, Ebbetts 8732, Luther 7740', Carson Pass 8580'. Optional one year was Dagget Pass 7340'. I tried it first time on Mtn bike, bad idea, failed. Speeds coming DOWN the mountain can get to 70 mph, miss a turn and earn the title "The Death Ride" - don't laugh, it has actually happened.
It is totally crowded, folks from all over world. The first Monitor is the hardest to come down. Around 3000+/- registered for the ride. I guess 70%-80% are gawkers and wanna-bees, don't stay on their side of the rode ($#@&&$$ IDIOTS), may loiter on your side going down, pretty scary, you need ALL you lane to make some of the turns. I tried the first time on mountain bike + knobbies. Bad idea, gave up after Monitor 2x. I got a road bike triple crank, special rims, brakes, etc got serious. I finally made the entire ride on 4th and 5th tries. Never wrecked on the DR. Quit while I was ahead....
Just something FWIW.
YMMV
Track prep for the next few weeks. Every pad was 4-5mm after last weekend. Will meet up with
@De Jeeper
tomorrow night for four days at WG.
Here�s the good thing. Everything in the box goes back to fcp for credit.
I reinstalled Cabriolet Hydraulic rebuilt cylinders, with new hoses, in my car and filled my hydraulic pump. Works like a charm but I found that one of the drain hoses had cracked. Darn 25 year old plastic! I had to recalibrate the Convertible top settings via Durametric. All good now; top goes dwn and top goes up.
I rebuilt and installed the parking and regular rear brakes, installed the drop links, set the ride height and torqued everything down, effectively completing the rear end rebuild, bar a final wipe over to remove any assembly smudges and smears. Nine weeks work in that lot.
Sanded and polished my 996.2 Carrera 4 Cab again. Last time was in October last year and they had started to yellow again. This time I masked and sprayed them with a headlamp protection lacquer so I�m hoping they will last a longer before the yellowing starts again.
Much better!
Both headlamps finished and ready to go back on the car.
Headlight on the left, pre-treatment, headlight on the left after sanding and polishing but pre protection lacquer.
Since taking ownership of my guards red 996 in late June I've been spending a ton of time touching up scratches, fixing some clear coat damage, wet sanding and polishing the paint. I'm about 50% done and hoping to be wrapped up in another month at which point I'll post some pictures. The paint work was rough to say the least, I think the prior owner washed it with Dawn soap and a dish sponge.
I've also ordered the following parts that will be slowly installed over the next few weeks as well:
- New spoiler accordion, mine is torn in some places
- New 'Carrera' badge, the last letter is missing on mine
- New steering wheel
- New shifter
- New third brake light, mine is cracked
- All new suspension components
- All fluids and filters
- Dismounted wheels to have them refurbished
- Still debating if I should take on the IMS swap myself or just pay a shop
I'm probably spending way too much money on the car but want it to feel as fresh and new as possible.
I'll post updates here with pictures once the work starts.
I didn't take pictures since I was in a rush and did it on my lunch break (shows you how easy the install is). Their installation manuals are pretty good and easy to follow:
https://www.auto-blip.com/support-center/
If I understand correctly, the owner of the company is a 911 guy.
The hardest part by far is getting to the throttle position sensor because it's behind the footwell vents and close to the throttle cable. It's easier to unclip it and attach the post-taps and hook it up to the Auto-Blip cables before clipping it back in. Below is a photo from the instruction sheet (the splice connectors are now posi-taps).
I also deviated slightly from the instructions by attaching the power and ground to switch power (cell phone power supply) instead of the OBD2. After I tested it and configured the delay and duration, I hid the control unit behind the dash for a clean, stock look (but still easy to access if needed).
If you are on the bigger side, it will be a challenge to work under the dash and between the driver's seat and pedals. There isn't much room down there.
I took it for a short test drive afterwards and it works as advertised. I set the delay on mine to full counter-clockwise and the duration to max (clockwise) since I'm not tracking my car.
I use the (non-pressure washer) foam gun purely as a prewash. I cover it like in your picture to loosen the dirt, then bucket wash as normal. I'm not sure it makes a huge difference, but it can't hurt.
I do have a pressure washer, but don't feel like pulling it out every time I wash the car. I'm not sure pressure wash foaming is a magic bullet either, though I'm happy to be corrected if wrong.
Honestly it really is and the real consideration is flow of the washer especially when applying foam. There are a couple things that are just as important like base coatings and what type of soap. I use KochChemie products and the foaming agent lifts most of the dirt/grime off the car before I get a wash mitt(or micro cloth) on the surface. I won�t bore you with specifics but if you�re interested I�ll share how I do a normal wash in under 40mins.
Good points all. Don’t want to turn this into a detailing thread but, here’s the process I used:
1. Foam the car (With Gtechniq - W4 Citrus Foam)
2. Let dwell for 3 minutes (foam was already starting to dry)
3. Lightly wash the car with a microfiber dreadlock mitt
4. Rinse with hose water
5. Final rinse down with distilled water through a hand-pump sprayer
6. Blow with a leaf blower (almost all water blown off)
7. Let the rest air dry in the garage (distilled doesn’t leave anything behind when it dries)
Like Chunk, I was all done in 40 minutes or slightly less. Since the car wasn’t dirty, and rarely will be, I didn’t think the foaming added significant time savings and/or cleanliness benefits. The car has recently applied “ceramic coating”.
Since I bought all the “stuff”, I’ll at least keep using it through the first bottle of foam. In any event, the car is clean and it’ll likely be a month, or more, between uses
Worked on the car instead of being at Watkins Glen driving. The clutch stopped working at Pittrace on sunday and cut short my week of Sumer Fun.
Now i have to decided how much i want to replace as it was all bought from fcp but i still have to buy it and get a credit.
So 2.5hr later, a little slow but it was still 87* at 8pm, and i found this broken throughout bearing.
I was tinkering in the rear wheel wells, cleaning products in hand (obs), when I just happened to notice out of the corner of my eye, something that caught my attention.
That something was in fact the ignition coil heat shields, which if I've read correctly are often in very poor condition? Mine looked in pretty decent shape to be honest, and well, they kind of just 'fell off in my hand, Sir'.
Following such clumsiness, I couldn't just bolt them back on without giving them a quick wipe over...
I must be more careful when working around the car as these little accidents have a nasty habit of repeating.
I can relate. I couldn't get any more air flow out of my AC vents than a butterfly flapping it's wings, leisurely. Tried replacing cabin air filter, thought maybe ducting was torn or broken, then read your post about buttons. Sure enough got back in the car and looked at the AC display and DEFROST was lit, found the button, pressed it and now I have great flow out of the AC vents! Thank you for the post.
Also, check the flappers/diverters. Most of the foam disintegrates over time and the flappers no longer divert air effectively. My AC was hardly putting out any air out of the vents so I tore into the dash and taped up the diverters. Working great now.
Cleaning up this stubborn corrosion that�s been behind each wheel bolt since I bought the car last year. While I have each bolt off I�ve been giving them a clean and polish. 3 done on this wheel. I need to buy a Dremel, lol.
Added a rear spoiler control to dash - much better than reaching down to the footwell. Dry lubricated the rear spoiler mechanism. Drove it like I stole it!
Changed the following tired parts with OEM or updated ones to new to me 2001 996:
- engine mounts (was sagging OEM and one was also leaking - installed ROHLER semi-solid mounts)
- transmission mount insert addittion (the bush was in great condition, so installed Powerflex yelllow 'bush fillers')
- all four ARB droplinks (front ones were hard to take out, one had to be sawed out...)
- rear toearms with bolts (old arms were totally seized to bolts and bolts had to be hacksawed out, now TRW arms with Porsche eccentric bolts)
- accessory belt (old looked fine, but I had no history when it was changed, now new Conti belt)
- full 4-corner alignment (did a bit more track friendly setup that seems to be a good one for now until I get adjustable lower suspension arms)
Then taked it out for ta est drive on beautiful weather with setting sun.
Now this 996 starts to be in such shape that I can take it to track in effort on getting used to this car's behaviour when pushed (had still a month ago farly heavily track focused 986).
I finally finished the underside clean up and got it back on it's wheels.
I know nobody will ever see these, but that's not the point, so before I refitted the under trays, I couldn't help myself giving the fluids 'junction box' a quick wipe over. Also fitted new hardware to attach the side skirts as the original stuff was past its best.
And with the under trays now all fitted, the rear end is now done.
Well, maybe not so much "do for your 996" as "help & appreciate my 996".
I did my first time ever wash, clay-bar, polish, clean, and self-done ceramic coat process for my new-to-me C4S. There was a giant problem with torn front axle boots led to take entire front suspension apart>> "fretted axles" (?) , replace everything in front, align and finally drive, now a "noisy bearing in LF (sigh, used turbo wheel carriers, fix it later), drive the car for the first times in 6 months. I don't count the 1100 mile drive to get the car home, sort of fun-pain, not used to X, Y, or Z, seat belt locked, gas cover flap locked, unknown gremlins from some button I pushed or accidentally touched. Now home and pretty much fixed.
On to appearance. I did all of the "top-side" in the claybar deal. Light was bad in small garage sort of left the bottom 1 foot off of the process. In sunlight after alignment, I see drips from my process. I thought I washed everything off. Wrong. I get to do the lower parts again today to clean up the mess. HOWEVER, to help me, I installed 5 new 4' LED lights to replace old single-tube fluorescent lights. WOW, the small garage is really lit up! I may do 2 more for the front (as I park normal nose-in) cuz it is darker than the back area. I place lights as far back as I could to get light for engine. Not much light there, tiny engine lid on 996.
Anyway, the new lights are great and will help with "projects". I don't have one of those "Designer-Soon to be on Front-Page Home Beautiful" garages, perfect polished-painted-stained concrete or the rubber tile deals, just ordinary garage stuff. Garage has to hold 40-ton woodsplitter, spare tires/wheels, lumber pieces new/partials, tools, 6'-10'-14'-28' ladders, fold up Folboat, 20-ton press, giant vice on a steel wheel stand, various wheeled saws, and so on, plus a new addition QJ on the floor for now. There are also benches along wall and various other stuff, plus roof steel support bar for block/tackle to hoist up something (like an elk or deer). That alone would cancel my "Home Beautiful" spread, may offend some folks who don't know where food comes from....
All in all, warts and $$$ to Fix/Repair the C4S is OK. Actually, it is fine. Yeah, I drive it around mostly like the usual slow half-dead idiot american with "Oh A Great Screen" for doodahs, my phone does this, electric seat does what?. has no idea what brakes and G-force means and so on. IMO, all this "nannie-digital crap" is just that. If it doesn't help drive the car the way it was built and supposed to work, I don't care about it. I rarely drive with the FM radio on- I'm driving, not at a concert hall or in the living room on a sofa., "Here, hold my beer". IMO, ancillary BS. On Occasion, I have a 20-30 second BLAST to merge somewhere and have fun. I tried Major grocery shopping with the C4S, and while I got everything to fit, it was a PITA. A "required" traffic quick brake stop (%@#*& idiots in front) who could not handle simple orange traffic cones on a 35mph street caused my chocolate cake to come off the back seat shelf and land upside down. I wanted to go at the "cones" at 35mph, seems simple to me. "Oh GAWD Martha, there are cones and IT IS SO DANGEROUS!" Bummer, pick it up, sort of slam in down and it came out 90% OK. So maybe I haven't tracked the car, or gone to "Coffee and Gabs" which is the "new way" - folks who buy Pcar for looks and snob-appeal, don't ever push it, don't ever make the dance like a Porsche can.
Good grief, I love this C4S after 30 years without. It IS a vast improvement from the A/C generations. Love the 996, what a deal for fun these days!
YOMV, YMMV
How did you do this spoiler switch move? Any photos or what wires to connect, etc? Maybe post or if not, DM me, I want to do this and add a "coopduc" oil temp gauge to the horseshoe. I have 2 spaces on the left side, 1 on the right side unused.
TIA for any help and answers.
YMMV
In the process of putting new coil overseas, decided to do new plugs and coil packs. The old plugs didn't look bad. Just a feeling I had that a cylinder was down on power.
I basically followed the instructions here:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-relocate.html
There are links in there too for the switch (make sure you match your matte or glossy switches) The main difference for me was that I didn't cut anything on the footwell side, I just made the male connectors and plugged them in there at the fuse box side. More easily reversible (no cutting wires) and I didn't care anything about having both switches work. Figured why would I use the lower when the dash one works fine! I am interested in an oil temp gauge somewhere discrete (want everything to look very stock) so let me know if you make any progress there.
Random Pro tip - do NOT overtighten your front diff drain plug (21 ft lb only!) Heard about a guy who did and is about to go out into his shop and re tap the inside aluminum threads. What an idiot right?!? :-)
I'm very happy with this - not a great deal of driving after the install, but so far it is very good. Where I started with on transmission bushing, was a very good condition transmission bushing (previous owner had changed it fairly recently).
Due to changing the engine mounts to semi-solids at the same time, I can't really say what is the effect on the transmission bushing inserts alone.
Here is coopduc's thread on oil temp gauge. Towards the end, around post #225 -photo of inside horseshoe, and earlier, there is a gauge meant for those buttons. IIRC, it is not expensive - DM/PM coopduc and he willl reply. (I don't put $$ here, maybe not approved by coopduc)
Thanks for link to spoiler install switch install.
cheers,
YMMV
I just gassed up and after doing a little math, I saw that my last tank averaged 10 mpg. I remember seeing a thread about changing out the O2 sensors ( mostly the pre-cat ones). Looking at online threads and videos, I saw that 1. You don't need to remove anything. 2. You need to remove the bumper, heat shields, mufflers, and exhaust. So I decided to remove the airbox to see if I could see what was involved in changing just the pre-cat sensors. It doesn't look too bad, assuming that the pre-cat sensors are the inner-most ones. Putting the airbox back was a challenge. I've done it many times but for some reason it just wouldn't go back in place. Eventually I realized that the two rubber grommets that line up with the pegs on the airbox were out of position. I've had the car for 15 years and never noticed the pegs or the grommets. Doh!
Eventually I realized that the two rubber grommets that line up with the pegs on the airbox were out of position. I've had the car for 15 years and never noticed the pegs or the grommets. Doh![/QUOTE]
Not just me!! Yay!
Interesting.
Our 2004 996.2 3.6L gets 16-18 around town and 25mpg on the highway. Our 2001 996.1 3.4L gets 16-18 all the time regardless of highway or around town. Both cars have original O2 sensors. 2004 3.6L has 110k mi and 2001 2.4L has 20k mi (not a typo), so I don't suspect O2 sensor wearout. I run a bottle of Driven Injector Defender through each car at annual oil change.
ALL: Thoughts on diagnostics strategies based on durametric readtings?
Got around to putting in a fan switch and installing Numeric shifter and cables.
Shout out to Jim010 for using the blank next to the left vent. He installed a light controller there in past years. Finding a ground was the only challenge for me.
Wire harness
It took me some experimentation to figure out how to mount the switch until I came on Jim’s RL thread light switch install. I drilled a 1/2 “ hole in the blank.
Touch up paint needed to make the blank pretty. The old paint took a beating!
My initial impression of the Numeric is positive. The installation video and pdf instructions are so-so. There’s a little post that is where the old center console middle anchor (under ashtray) on the Numeric assembly that must be tightened from underneath the unit. If you don’t the post will spin and you can’t use that post. This isn’t in the instructions. The 996 plastic cable cover doesn’t clip in to the Numeric structure. It just lays over the cable mount area in the same general spot as the stock shifter. The instructions for the cables are decent enough. I set the shift gates to medium.
The action is very crisp. Like others note I needed some practice to get comfortable. My impression is the gates are a bit closer than with 996 or 997 OE. I didn’t use any sound deadening. There is some drivetrain noise in the cabin, but not too much. My car sounds like a muffled Cup car to me. I like it.
Got new tires (Continentals) and alignment. Re-torqued all of the bolts and adjusted the tire pressure even though I'm supposed to be taking it easy after a recent surgery. A man's gotta do what a man's gotta do. Also cleaned the MAF and hunted down an intermittent issue with the wireless phone charger. I used WAGO connectors and the connections seem fine. Every time this happens, I examine the connections, see nothing, and it works again. Other things I have plugged into the same connectors never have an issue. It's possible that it could be the 12v to 5v converter or the wireless charger itself. At some point I'll solder the connections instead of using the WAGOs.
Replaced the windshield cowl, the �cup� that the screw goes in to hold it down on one side was broken and it stuck up slightly. It was also kinda faded so I figured a new one was in order.
The new rubber seal was a bit different than the original, it was about 8 inches longer than necessary so I ended up trimming it with a razor on the ends.
Took her out for ice cream (with the wife). An hour after I parked her, I noticed this coolant spot. I have had to top off the coolant occasionally but this is the first spotting. It's been good lately.
Does the location tell you anything? Thanks.
Installed my ducktail today
Overall, I happy with it for the time being. Will probably go back to the blacked out tail lights and heckebende, but going to appreciate that distinctive 4S red stripe for now.
Went from this-
To this-
Added a charging port, all of my chargers have XT60 type connectors as i do a bit of RC flying etc.
I also use these on all of my motorcycles, quick and easy to plug in.
This is a XT60E-F with cover, i soldered an inline fuse also and passed it through the scuttle at the base of the window.
Cover keeps the wet out and its easy to access in my garage without leaving the hood up!
WRONG. Keep the heckebende, forget the blackout stuff. The heckebende, is only found on a C4S. Totally wrong to make it "go away visually". If you don't like the "look-appearance", buy something else. Try a plain 996 Turbo, or GT3 or whatever. Many like me, bought the C4S BECAUSE of the heckebende, and big Fat Azz. There are not that many C4S around, ~17,000 built, and time/wrecks/accidents reduce that number. 996 rear-ends w/o heckebende as a prominent feature are a dime (~10 cents = ~$20k+) a dozen.
Your opinion may defer, OK, it's your car, do what you like. JMO.
YMMV
Drove the wheels off it in the NC mountains this weekend and had lunch off the spoiler. It's great to use these cars as intended. Dirt can be cleaned off with a hose!
--Aaron
I specifically bought my 4S for that AZZ too! See, everybody else has a red heckebende on their 4S, and I don�t really care to be like anyone else. If my tinted heckebende didn�t have a few little air bubbles in it from trying to put it on while still installed i would have just put it back together tinted. Spare tail lights. I only bought the new heckebende for a future potential restoration, and because it was on sale. The burnt orange S kinda clashes with the red I think. I�m just glad everything came out fitting aligned and gapped properly.
Totally agree. ^^^^
I have a spare turbo decklid and the lower section of a C4S decklid that I cut off that mounts the heckebende. I want to section in the C4S piece to the turbo lid which I feel pretty confident in doing. However, my confidence isn't so strong that I want to spend the cash on a new heckebende in order to try this project, as it would be an expensive failure if I screwed it up. So if anybody has a broken, cracked one laying around I'd take it off your hands.
If it hadn�t found this heckebende at over 50% off during memorial day sales I probably wouldn�t have got one either. They�re usually more than that on eBay used. I say go for it if you can find one! I surprised myself with how the ducktail turned out.
I am planning a First annual “996 Gathering” here in Sebring this November 28-29,
Group dinner and get together Friday night November 28th.
Group tour of Sebring Raceway Friday November 28th.
Attend and display at Car Show November 29th.
More info will be coming including hotel sites.
use code pcar20 for registration discount.
Rich
Not today, but this past week. New clutch, flywheel along with the IMS Solution (permanent fix) and the RMS. It has been an expensive week. Next up is a complete suspension overhaul while I continue wet sanding and polishing the whole car. I'll have pictures eventually.
01 996.1 C2 Tip 79996 miles
Removed Ferados and associated grime for Textars. Vinegar works great cleaning brakes.
Polished head lights, filled ATF, sump off oil service (absolutely clean), sent Speed oil sample in, Bank 1-3 #2 chain tensioner for guide rail (lMS to exhaust cam).
According to Durametric, it reduced ignition angle 3 degree. From ~-10.2 to -7.6 to ~-8.2 to -3.8 degree. These are at hot idle ~700rpm, 10-15 rpm oscillations
Completed the UAOS installation. Had some minor issues like accidentally breaking the nipple connection for the brake booster but reglued with jb weld. Did a smoke test to make sure no leak and noticed there was around the connector to the throttle body. Swapped the rubber O ring from the norma fitting with the one from stock and fixed the leak. The supplied ring appeared skinnier. Not sure if this an issue but Charles may have to look into that. Anyways a little challenging but got it done. Next to replace is the ignition switch, and re finish the center brake light. Thanks to Charles for his txt messaging customer support. Hopefully i
won�t be burning much oil now. I�ll redo the blow by later which I did recently and showed very good value.
😅
Yesterday when I saw the local K9 officer, I thought about pulling over and asking them to have their drug dog do an inspection of my car to make sure nobody left anything behind. Then I thought about how I don't let the family German Shepherd in the car due to its powerful claws and the damage it might do to the leather and/or paint. Visions of a powerful determined dog crawling all over my car gave me pause. Especially if the dog smelled something in the frunk and excitedly decided to claw his way over the fender or front clip to get in and find whatever was in the frunk. I decided to not pull the trigger for now.
With all the detailing now complete, I treated Zanzibar to a pair of rear bumper spats as I've always liked them, but appreciate they divide opinion.
They took a fair bit of body prep before I could paint them, but with the weather being so nice today, I took advantage and finished the prep, shot the base coats and then the clear.
I'll give them 24 hours to fully cure then de-nib, flat, cut and polish tomorrow.
Changed:
- lower control arms adn three of those put a good fight. Had to saw the bolts from both sides (image).
- motor oil and oil filter.
- brake fluids to Motul Race 600
and did a full 4-wheel alignment to a bit more track friendly set up
- camber maxed front (-0.80* each side), rear -1,80 each side)
- toe front 0,00* each side and rear 0,00* each side
No one runs zero rear toe for a track setup. That�s asking for trouble. It might work well for autocross, where the consequences are far more mundane.
edit: I really like +0.15* rear toe per side. The rear grip is phenomenal. You might find that it understeers with your camber selection.
Thanks - I do now
I'm going to find out whst this car is about at the track next weekend - so far today at the twisties the setup felt fairly good....
Tracked and reced fairly well built street/track 986 last 5 years and now this is the next toy and have to learn the car first ,before starting to push it. That time the setup will be adjusted as needed to.
Fixed my clicky gas pedal with a Rennline pedal hinge, and "while I was in there" added a gas pedal lifter plate and perforated pedal covers. Great improvement both form and function!
Finally fixed the electronic frunk latch. I replaced the non functioning latch motor / cable with a new one. The latch only worked with the frunk open or when the car was running.
As it turned out the safety (red) hook was fetching up on the U-bolt attached to the underside of the hood.
I fiddled and fiddled and shimmed and shimmed and eventually tipped the bottom of the U-bolt forward so the safety latch passed through the U-bolt without friction.
Works just swell now, and emergency cable is also easier to operate.
Fill your spare tire while you're in there if you haven't done so in a while.
This is my occasional "Public Service Announcement" on keeping the spare full. I don't know how it's physically possible for the 996 spare to leak down from 60PS to 3PSI or less over the course of a few years, but that's exactly what it does
.
Looks great! What paint did you use? Is this from a compressor paint gu or did you use spray paint from a touchup paint seller?
I'm asking because I'm looking for the latter color-match spray paint to fix the underside of the front air damn on a Alfa Giulia and would like to know which paint company you used.
Thanks, I'm in the UK and just used a local paint supplier to mix up a solvent basecoat to the code in an aerosol. I'm pretty sure the brand was Valspar. I was all prepared to use the compressor and gun which I tend to use for larger jobs, but given these are relatively small, I tired the aerosol. I must admit, I was blown away by both the colour match and how well it laid out the metallic and pearl, better than many base coats I've put through the gun. The colour match is as perfect as I can detect.
For the clear coat, I again used an aerosol of 2K (I think you guys call it Epoxy or Urethane?) for the same reasons, plus any issues, the clear and be worked, flatted and polished to a perfect finish no matter how well or poorly it's applied. In this case the clear was from Sunox Paints - superb quality and once again, really impressed with the aerosol atomisation, fan spread, pressure and consistency. Other than a couple of nibs, the nozzle finish was as good as many a new production car - although that's not saying much these days!
I can imagine some people turning their nose up at the concept of using an aerosol, but at the end of the day, it's all down to the quality of the paint and colour match. The method of application is codependent on the environment, conditions, scale, and how much risk you're willing to take versus the time invested in prep. If I were paining a hood or a door for example, or blending in the base to an existing panel, I'd reach for the Devilbiss without pause, but for this size of project - mirror caps, door handles, spoilers etc, it worked out great.
You be the judge, as I got then fitted last night and the finish is superior to the factory paint on the bumper they're bolted to.
Nah, my local Napa (US based parts store) has a paint shop. I get aerosol all the time. Its the same automotive paint as what u would use in a spray gun so its an easier way to apply on a small surface.
I wouldnt use it on large flat areas but bumpers lay down nice.
Thanks for info. We do have the 2k clear in the US, though I haven't used it (yet)
I've heard Napa does this, but the one I went to didn't know anything about it. Do you know how to find which Napa's have paint?
I do not. Im pretty sure they r franchises so there probably isnt a master directory.
i would just look for an automotive paint supply store. U just have to find one that has the aerosol machine.
It's fabulous stuff, but highly toxic so proper breathing apparatus is a must. I use a 3M mask with filters design to work with isocyanate paints which have a 'x' hours use' shelf life before they must be discharged. I only use this for very small quantities that I can paint outdoors in fine weather and 'up wind' as I won't take the risk painting with it indoors without a proper air-fed mask, which I don't have, nor a booth, so my painting these days is restricted to small pieces and smart repairs.
It STUNK! not sure it could be classified as oil any longer given it baked for 10 years in new orleans heat, and when I drained the 10 year old gasoline, it was the worse smell you can imagine, and took me 3 days to get the stink out of my nose! Did cut the filter open and it was clean as a whistle, so looks like I have a good engine.
My driver's side front caliper was weeping brake fluid, so I removed the caliper and popped the pistons our and rebuilt it. Not very easy getting the pistons back in, but eventually they obeyed. bled the brakes and all is well. (I suppose I should rebuild the passenger side caliper as well, but that's not my highest priority!)
Thanks for sharing. Since 2k clear is apparently compatible, I'm going to order just the base coat (in Montecarlo Blue for an Alfa) rather than getting their TouchUpDirect's clear.
I'd like to get touchup paint also -- but I'm looking for clear & metallic base coat mixed in a brush on touchup. I've never been able to get a clean touchup with metallic basecoat and separate clear on top. The secret is to get it premixed so you can level tiny chip repairs like a single stage paint. Not sure if TouchUpDirect has pre-mixed though -- just left support a message to see if they can offer it.
I�m curious to see what they say because I�m looking at a Dr ColorChip kit for the Audi which is pre mixed I believe. The other way is really really tedious and while I have done it for some of my customers� it�s not my favorite way and it�s expensive.
- Clean chip(ie rust remover/wax stripper)
- Dab touch up paint + heat gun to dry between layers
- Once dry, level with razor blade or denibber
- Once level, wet sand to blend + polish.
The key here would be to allow the touch up layers to completely dry so they don�t clump. Once you start leveling with a blade or denibber, the clump could lift completely and leave you in the same position you started.
I know the razor blade technique isn�t for the faint of heart and you can tape the ends of the blade to keep you from gouging the paint. Rupes makes a ceramic denibber that is a good option and probably preferred. If you haven�t done by the time I get home, I�ll send you a step by step tutorial with pics.
They came back and said they do not offer combined clear and base coat, only separate base and clear.
I�ve had invisible touchups on non-metallic with single stage touch up and Langka in the past - have never gotten metallic to look good.
I think combined clear and base would help. It�s almost impossible to mix yourself with the �pen� touchups (what I have currently) but maybe isn�t hard to mix them with brush-on clear and base.
It's your car, you can do what you like...
I think you did a real nice job!
The stock lenses look great, but the blacked out looks interesting too.
And since you have both, you can change them at your whim.
(I have a black Cayenne, and "blacked out" the lights too... The headlights have clear lenses, but black interior w/LEDs)
But yes, that S needs to be red too...
And since this is the topic...
I just looked up "heckebende" in German
None of the translators know what it means.
(one said "hedge level")
Anyone else have any background?
Thanks,
Paul
last night filled up with fresh Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5W-40.
was using the green bottle molygen but figured i'd give this a try.
was missing a 1qt (thanks FCP
) but managed close enough to full.
It�s back in black. Lasted two days. The orange S isn�t so wonky now.
I picked up the �heckebende� name for the reflector from Rennlist. No idea on the history.
My Opinion Only, YOMV
An Orange "S" or any other letter-script in orange is NOT anywhere in Porsche history. Now the whole back Azz end with out the red heckblende looks "wonky". (Unknown= definition of "Wonky", or thereabouts.) I think all the "blackout-smoke" craze is just that, crazy. However, I'd give you "Plus Points" for tailpipe ends. Win some, loose some.
I'd never buy it, but so what? Your car, do what you like.
YMMV
Big day today.
on the 996:
changed transaxle oil (93,000 miles)
adjusted suspension (rattling drop links)
air filter (installed BMC)
conditioned leather (first stage of Leatherique application)
vacuumed & tidied up
On the 987
"Driven" oil & filter change
air filter (BMC)
cabin air filter
"lite" radiator clean out (didn't remove bumper; that's for another time)
clean engine compartment
wash, shine, vacuum
Coming soon:
finish Leatherique treatment on 996
condition & clean 987 interior
I think the Boxster's cabin and air filters were original. Filthy!
Can't get the boot to not bind.
The wife's toy on the rack.
Ready for fun.
On the air filters they make a charcoal and a plain filter. The charcoal ones just look black out of the box.
On the boot u have to force the boot toward the middle of the heim while tightening it. Kinda a pita.
Thanks for the boot tip. Gotta be back under the car this week to readjust ride height anyway, so I'll see if I can work that kink out. On the filter, it probably was a charcoal filter but based on the amount of crud in the filter holder, I'm not sure it had been replaced before. I've had to deal with a bit of deferred maintenance on the 987 but it's almost dialed.
Added washer fluid for the first time in 15 years. Of course I went with Genuine Porsche N-rated fluid for $100 an ounce, you know, for the competitive edge.
Good old Kaleco - what would we do without them. Best tool in my toolbox is their 10mm socket dowsing rod -
https://kalecoauto.com/product/10mm-socket-dowsing-rod/
Today I completed 5 days work on some minor sport repairs to the paint on Zanzibar, mainly to correct stone chip damage to the front of the side skirts and wheel arch lips both sides, and a ding on the drivers side wheels arch. Thanks to it being double skinned and spot welded, it could not be removed by traditional paintless dent removal techniques. Once done, I wet sanded and paint corrected the entire car.
A few highlight pics....
Pulled the front bumper cover to relocate the manual frunk release and clean the radiators. The gasket around the headlights crumbled into small pieces. Ordered replacements and installed. Then found the right side mounting plate broken. Pelican wants $150+ for replacement, but then wants to charge over $40 for shipping. Ebay stepped up for $65 shipped. Superglued the broken lock rod carrier in place and managed to reinstall the headlight. Waiting on part. Will post pics when I complete the repair.
"crumbled into small pieces" made me chuckle
I've said those exact words too many times. for me it's been electrical connectors.
look forward to the pics, good luck.
I still need to repair the wheel speed sensor/brake pad wear sensor connector for the driver's side front and rear. They are currently soldered in. Looking for the repair cable and not really finding it. The parts houses (Pelican, FCP) seem to list the incorrect cable for a 2003 Carrera. Mine does not have PSM, and that is all they list. You have to search for a 2002 model to get the correct cables.
Anyone need a RR cable for a PSM car?
Wow, impressive results. I've got a few spots that need touched up but my initial concerns was having to clear the entire panels. Did you reclear the entire side skirts / fender? or just the sections where you touched up?
Gave up the coveted spare CD storage slot in the console to install a fun new Auto-blip toy for my backroads runs.Never been able to figure out a successful heel-toeing technique. No way was I going to double sided tape it to a leather surface, so this is the only solution I could come up with. Works as advertised.
My car has the RennClassic phone mount, off the hazard switch surround. This makes the cup holder useless, with my phone mount. I went to REI, and bought an aluminum water bottle cage on sale for $6.00. I reprofiled the end flat, and touched up the paint. I added hook Velcro to the back center spine, and then loop Velcro to the interior surfaces of the cage. Using a piece of cardboard, I positioned the cage, and then pressed the hook Velcro into the carpet. I tucked the bottom under my Porsche rubber floor
mat, and voila! Water bottle held in place, no rattles, misses my wife�s leg, and is easy to reach from the driver�s seat (though the tall bottle makes that easier).
Any way to secure that to the center console at the top with a screw? I think in an accident (god forbid) it has a good chance to go flying around the car.
I did consider this- I could use double stick tape, or elongate the top tab and anchor it internally. I chose to use a simple, easy quick and effective method within the scope of risk I�m willing to accept. If the bottle were to come loose, it�s very close to the floor, not elevated as it would be in the cup holder. Would be difficult for it to get across into the driver pedals. So, sure it�s a risk, I agree. The mount feels stable though. It�s just better than the bottle being loose on the floor behind the seat, which is where it lived as its� previous home. In the event of a bad accident, I think many items will bounce about, including coffee cups in the original cup holders, or the phone from its mount. This is low, so it won�t get thrown by an airbag deployment, so that�s a plus� but yep, you could absolutely mount it to the console in some more durable fashion. I just choose to not make changes to the car- I can undo all of my small modifications and return the car to stock without any sign of the mod, except for the LN Solution� and I don�t see that one as a negative. Thanks for the question, and as I use the holder, it may evolve. Fashioning a tab to the seat mount might work too, I dunno. But, so far, so good- survived Lolo Pass recently.
Trying to get over the fear of something breaking since putting the new engine in after all the work to install.
Took a little drive, trying to get over the fear of something breaking. Went up to a cars and coffee in Manhasset, I can't believe that I didn't get a pic of a superb BMW 2002tii lol.
Cleaning continued 🧹
� Broke out the Leatherique for a treatment on the seats.
� Pulled the taillights for what looks like the first cleaning this car has had back there since leaving Germany lol.
Speaking of cleaning, I pulled out the Immobilizer beneath the driver's seat expecting a lot of unpleasant stuff from the previous owners of the car. I was pleasantly surprised to find only 2 slightly tarnished pennies. The Immobilizer itself had a couple of drink stains but everything beneath there was clean and dry. I may pull out the passenger's seat to do a thorough vacuum beneath that one as well.
Thanks. Just the section where I touched up, extended by about 6". Three keys to a successful clear coat blend is to fully wet sand the original clear with 1,200 grit, use the best quality clear you can find, and use a fade out thinner immediately after your last clear shot.
How do you secure your ultimate cupholder? Mine moves around and sometimes lean.
I really like the idea of putting velcro to the back. I think that could work to prevent the ultimate cupholder from moving and sliding out.
Anyone else old as hell and too stupid to realize it? Wrenched my back putting a rear wheel/tire back on after taking it off to try to remove the rear bumper (which I failed to do). I watched a couple of videos but I guess the bumper on a cab is different. It has a few more screws than shown and still wouldn't come off.
I've noticed that the interval between doing something and the severity of the body giving me hell for it has been steadily declining. Distressing - but not enough to stop.
I 3D printed then moulded some custom rubber jack pads to extend beneath the bottom of the aero side skirts, so I'm not having to make micro adjustments to the jack pad or QuickJacks blocks to avoid accidentally lifting on the side skirts.
Nice, i printed mine from T95 TPU with 100% infill. While i get a bit of squish, they fit in my various jacks perfectly. I have a few sets all ready to go. Gotta love 3d printers!
I'm with ya! I'm always looking for longer breaker bars and more effective liquid wrench! It's so satisfying to accomplish maintenance and upgrade tasks on the Porsche, but the recovery time keeps getting longer. It beats the alternative, though!
Hang in there!
Replaced the high pressure power steering line in my C4S and was rewarded!: No more leaks, and found out that a previous owner installed an IPD Plenum and 82 mm throttle body! ... No wonder mine sounds extra growly compared to others that I've heard! Thanks
@DC Auto
for the used high pressure line! It was good to meet your team a few weeks ago!
Nice! I bet that stereo rocks. I don't use my stereo 'cz I like to hear the engine sound and I think a prior owner removed a few speakers - sounds sh*tty. It has a Pioneer AVIC-Z120BT which I assume is a good unit but the owner's manual is 228 pages and I'm too lazy to read it (and I'm not an audiophile).
That looks awesome! Love the color scheme and materials choice! I wish I could have added more orange to my interior updates, but with a black/black car I�d run the risk of turning into a Halloween parody.
@
TexSquirrel
I have access to one of those too. What stock material do you use for your Cricut? Magnetic? Static sticker? adhesive? Ever have any fall off? Thanks for the info!
Semi-annual mess. Good for the next 6 months of romping around.
There's been alot of chatter about upping the viscosity. I don't track, it's not desert 'hot'. So I'm staying with the DI40.
I was under the impression DI40 was what some where switching to from DT40 for the added viscosity? Perhaps I'm mistaken. Have two cases of DT and plan to buy more if LN does another Black Friday sale.
I understand that DI40 was formulated for direct injection engines. Supposed to be the same viscosity, but maybe DI changes less over time. I was using DT40 in this engine until I had it rebuilt by Flat6Innovations. Their recommendation after rebuild was LM2040 but has since migrated to DI40. I know Jake personally now and I know the rigor through which he puts products before he makes these kinds of recommendations. So I'm using DI40. That said, I personally believe that if you are not tracking your car and you change oil every 6 months or 5k miles, you can use almost any decent oil and you'll be fine. Tracking or heavy canyon carving needs a different strategy. Ultimately, used oil analysis will tell you what is what. I changed my Cayenne from Mobil1 to DI40 and the wear metals dropped alot: to the point where Lake has said I can increase the service interval. Crazy. Sorry, alot of words.
Thank you. Yes I'm in the six month/5k mi camp myself.
I'm looking at switching to Driven in my Cayenne as well (9Y0 GTS) since we've decided to keep it for the foreseeable future.
@996 Dawg
, I typically use removeable vinyl on my car.
If they start to fade or come loose I can just print a new one.
I do have some magnetic Porsche Motorsport panels made by Magnagrafik that I ordered blank so I can easily change the numbers.
For larger stickers I have a 12x24" mat.
So I could create 24" tall numerals if I wanted to.
Recently I started using clear shelf paper from Dollar Tree for transfer tape.
It's made applying sticker MUCH easier, especially larger ones!
tested the integrity of the M96 lower engine case.
It survived. The pan? Not so much. Don�t straddle gators. Had ice mode at T16 VIR and could spin it into the wall or ease up and straddle the gator. Other than a pan a brake duct things are ok.
�Aaron
Ouch. Thats how u got my car for $5k. Po also crack the case half but that was weldable.
I looped my car on T1 at watkins yesterday. It really zaps your mojo.
Reinstalled and adjusted headlights that have been fitted with Bi-LED (and LED fog and turn bulbs) by Adrian. I still have the old halogen headlight units just in case I want to return the car to full retro but the improved visibility at night with the LEDs is too good to give up.
Luckily you shut it down before oil starvation happened! Some rumble strips are just to high on some tracks.......but at least its an easy enough fix though!
@flipnidaho
1UPs are definitely great. I ran them with PTS on my 2003 C4S for a while, but recently put them on a hitch mount carrier so I can use them on the Cayenne, Merc, and RV.
Dirty girl in the middle of a Crested Butte MTB trip
Yeah it is a seperate custom aluminium panel which is fully sound deadened that the guys built to replace the rear seat and cover the two custom sub boxes I build that sit under it with 8" Focal Flax Evo subs. I suppose you could take a mold of it and make one in fiberglass or carbon but how many would / could you sell and shipping would be a pain from Australia
I definitely like it...Runs Focal all round (1', 3" and 6.5" Utopia fronts / K2 Power 5 1/4" rears and the 2 x 8" Flax Evo subs), AudioControl amps and a Kenwood head unit....The stock stereo is now too old and has aged badly....That and the user manual is way to long and I can;t get passed page 5 without falling asleep
Took mine out for its maiden mountain bike trip today just to check it out. The Thule was pretty solid. I still prefer taking the Land Cruiser for mountain biking though. I'll look into the fairing. Thanks!
On my way to a PCA drive I get a check engine light. I get some lunch then head home and as soon as I arrive home it goes away. Huh!? A basic scanner store a code about O2 circuit bank 2 sensor 1. Prior to this drive I drove a week ago for 30 minutes after sitting for 6 months. Maybe just shaking off dust from sitting for so long?
Also tried to pump some gas and clicks right away? Fuel filler vent issue?
Out at Sebring for the 70th PCA anniversary event, took my taco, M&M and me for some fun
come to the 996 Gathering in November this year in Sebring.
www.msreg/wheelsofcolor
Rich
Today I removed the headers to replace my crusty bolts with titanium studs.
With the headers off and looking a little tired....
I cleaned them up as best as I could but was a country mile away from them looking nice again, so I'll send them out to be ceramic coated.
In preparation and inspection for this,
I scraped off all the remnants of gasket from the mating flange to discover it was both pitted and anything but flat. This needed sorting before coating, so that was today's job.
The day started out with the best of intentions to mount the headers in my mill and resurface the flanges with a face cutter, however no matter what orientation I tried or method of clamping, I couldn't find a way to make them fit, as my mill is just too shallow thanks to the rather deep plunge of the primaries before they turn rearwards.
Dammit.
I really want to get these things out without delay and could do without having to hawk them round engineering shops to find someone willing to do the job for a sensible price, so the only other option was to do them by hand.
Obviously to do this you need something absolutely rigid, flat, of sufficient length, and most importantly of all, capable of sanding and leveling 304 stainless.
Good luck with that I hear you scoff!
I just happened to have a Perma-Grit double sided block which is an aluminium extrusion with a coarse grit tungsten carbide bonded surface on one side, and a medium fine grit on the other.
Well, the fun and excitement round here just reached a new level of 'girly wrist clapping'.
The good news is that it worked.
The bad news is that sanding any kind of depth off a slab of stainless is ever so slightly more work than sanding a thin layer of polyfilla off a bedroom wall.
This shot was taken half way through when I'd managed to recover at least a flat continuous surface all the way round the ports where the gasket seals.
I was elated that I'd reached the minimum result needed, but equally deflated by how long it took.
In full 'spoiler project' determination mode, I gritted my teeth and carried on.
A conveyor of fresh cups of tea on relay to the garage and goodness knows how many hours later, I eventually ended up here.
Today was the first and only time I've ever wished I had a 3 cylinder car.
The last time my arms felt like this was after 12 rounds on the heavy bag.
Tonight, I'll have to put my toothbrush in the vice and just shake my head to brush my teeth.
Same again tomorrow. Deep joy.
Outstanding work.
I know I was exhaust after just wet sanding my exhaust manifolds, can't imagine how you must feel after all that. Always enjoy seeing your restoration posts.
...just waiting on new tie rods from FCP.
The downside to redoing the suspension and sorting out all the creaks and rattles there is that you find other creaks and rattles–especially in a 22-year old car. With the suspension finally dialed in, I discovered annoying rattles in the steering. Tie rods are shot, so the 911 sits on the rack waiting for new bits to be delivered. Meanwhile, I can't drive her in some of the best weather of the year in the foothills.
Sometimes they do have brain farts, with it being a O2, it might have just needed to get warm. Nothing to worry about but watch it and if it happens again unplug it from under the airbox and plug its back in....sometimes there is corrosion from sitting. They are easy to replace just expensive.....:P(
Yet another PSA to clean your radiators. My temps have been high and I haven't done it since I bought the car 3.5yrs ago, and it was incredibly satisfying. Capped off the weekend with some better garage lighting and artwork for the (new to me) garage.
Next up is sorting out my hot start issue... pretty sure my Y cable is ripe for replacement, and other battery troubles are convincing me to just swap the alternator to the 150A one from the 997s while I'm in there.
Got lucky and noticed weathertech had a huge discount on the Bose targa mats. I mostly daily mine, so I'm happy to preserve the Lloyd mats a little longer.
Wash + fuel + pickup of new underside plastics, speed clips, and rubber air trims. I had half of one (cracked) and a portion of the other, lol. Fitting them now.
I kept our Macan outside when we got it. It didn't make sense value-wise, but couldn't put the 996 out. Everyone's situation is different of course (even for mine, it would have been a hassle to have the daily Macan in the garage given limited driveway space).
Congrats on the Macan -- you should enjoy it. I know you just got it, and it's under warranty, but I'd be remiss if I didn't mention that a throttle booster makes a
huge
difference on the Macan's responsiveness in just regular daily drives.
I replaced my pre and post-cat O2 sensors. Everyone said it was challenging but it was a piece of cake.
Step 1. Go to the ATM.
Step 2. Enter your PIN and withdraw money.
Step 3. Give the money to a Porsche shop.
Done.
I've used Focal speakers in multiple custom builts as they are great sounding, high fidelity speakers. They're not show car, look at me, loud for the sake of it, steering far more to the side of actual sonic quality.
They have (last time I looked) three ranges. Having auditioned them all, I found the middle range 'K2 Power' the sweet spot of price versus sound. The Utopia high end stuff is great, but the price differential doesn't justify the very small improvement in sound. They're all superb, but K2 Power is where I spent my money.
Drove mine for the first time in a couple of weeks. Took her to get an alignment after doing inner & outer tie rods.
Sidebar: replacing the tie rods was a very easy and enjoyable DIY. Massive thanks to
@FCP Euro
for the great DIY videos Mike Hidalgo does. Only two items:
1) it's easier to slip the inner boot gasket (rubber band thingy) on before you install the inner tie rod; just a lot easier to stretch it around the rack without the inner tie rod in the way
2) the "Meyle" boots that come with the tie rod kit from FCP were a PITA to try and use. Although the part number comes up as correct on FCP's site (they're rack-specific), they're just a little narrower in diameter than the original TRW boots that came on my 996.2. Fortunately my original boots were still in great shape so I just reused those with new clamps.
You Tube
Looks good! I got an extra tray, just have to get the mini ducktail.
Question, how did you attach it? Is there room on the ducktail to insert a couple of screws from the tray to put it on a little tighter for the track?
Was able to get
@Coopduc
's Oil temp read out successfully installed. Great guy and a great product with VERY good install instructions. I did discover that one needs to actually read them closely instead of my novice/bull/china-shop approach when it comes to RTFM..
In other news I'm passing out cigars! Brought home a little brother today - 2018 Macan to use as a DD and give the ole girl lighter duty.
Fitting for tonight's activities - Go Dawgs!!
As you can see I also invented time travel and I am buying as much Google and Apple stock as I can!!
It comes with pre-installed 3M VHB tape and felt pretty solid once attached.
But I did insert a couple of screws just to be safe.
A couple of self-tappers from inside the tray angled into the ducktail.
Not sure how much it helps but I feel better about it now haha
Went for a great track day at Kymiring with my SealGrey 996. The car performed real well regardless that I did not want to take rpm's above 6K before I change the VarioCam chains, chainramps and actuator seals (seals are already at home from Hartech).
Most likely today was this season's last track day for me - winter is just around the corner here. Can't wait for spring to arrive to continue track events
Front diagonal cross bars had built up a bit of surface rust over the years. I pulled the bars out, removed a lot of it but there�s still a fair amount left along with plenty of cosmoline.
Was planning to use a die grinder to remove the rust, but replacements are reasonable enough from Porsche.
Thank you! Unfortunately it�s no longer made but it�s a carbon RPM Technik CSR Evo ducktail.
It really depends on how much you want to swap. My car had Aero added after the fact and I swapped an Aero/GT3 bumper for a RS so it�s a direct swap. I didn�t have to swap any radiator cowlings. 40AE cars have a turbo front end.
Oil change, new carbon cabin filter, and also realized my power steering reservoir was dry.
I have the rack replaced earlier this year which has a very obvious leak, but have not seen a single drop under the car since. Didn't notice anything wet under the car while doing the oil change either
I actually have a 996 RPM Technik Evo ducktail that they sent me which will not fit a C4S. As you said they don;t make them any more so I have been holding on to it just in case I buy a non-wide body 996 btu if any one is interested
I replaced the original dash speakers. It sounded like the old speaker paper cones have torn (buzzy bass at higher volumes). It looks like the replacement speakers (from Pelican) have been updated and is now made in Hungary instead of Germany.
Garage test after install went well. Not that I use the audio that much but it's good to know that if I do, it will sound ok.
Left is new, right is original.
Headlights seem crappy in 04 C4S. OK, I need to polish-restore whatever the word is, the outside lenses. Not today, I didn't want to make a mess in garage - rain day. So I decided to adjust headlights UP a little bit to help with range. Bentley book (94-10) says CCW to raise, CW to lower. WRONG! Tape on wall marking present aim. Adjust CCW, zero. Adjust again, zero. Meanwhile, On Off lights,, adjust, turn on car, on-off, Litronic goes up/down, turn back on, see results. Zero. Give up. Decide to put adjustments back to where they were originally, lucky I counted turns. Then decided, maybe go adjust the other way - CW. BINGO! It works. Increase a little and see results. Did both headlights with the lights OFF/ON, ignition OFF/ON, reset Litronic, all OK. If weather isn't like crap tomorrow in dark, go see result.
ANYWAY, Bentley book is backwards, wrong instruction.
YMMV
First annual �996 Gathering� here in Sebring this November 28-29,
Group dinner and get together Friday night November 28th.
Possible tour of Sebring Raceway Friday November 28th.
Attend and display at Car Show November 29th. Cars can arrive up to 10AM to be placed in position, gives more time to drive over to Sebring if just coming for the car show.
Rich
Use code pcar20 for registration discount
Hotel Information
Inn on the Lakes: Call
[phone removed]
SEVEN Hotel: Call
[phone removed]
Tru by Hilton:
Book Online
or call
[phone removed]
Residence Inn by Marriott:
Book Online
or call
[phone removed]
Rich
Tending to the front end underside with scrub brushes and degreaser.
Awaiting new under tray clips and my front cross bars a friend was kind enough to refresh for me.
Also ordered a replacement for that corroded looking bolt in the middle of the bumper.
Frunk stopped working last weekend so I replaced the actuator, dabbed some lithium grease on the latch assembly while I had it out and relocated the emergency release to the tow hook opening. Pretty straightforward repair/access on all fronts thanks to past postings here. Will be much easier to deal with if there's a next time.
It went really well, and the buyer turned out to be a really cool guy. He is local, so he came by and checked out the car before bidding.
Auction closed yesterday; I handed over the car to the buyer today.
Today I put my 996 nibernating for the winter.
Purchased this car on July 10th 2025 and did have a chance to drive it approx 3500km since then. More kilometers is planned for next summer - specially at the track.
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I bought a separated lot and one 108 face was cracked a couple years ago. Sold the other 108 and bought two new ones l with the one pictured being the last 108, I�ll have to look at the other two.
Broken shifter!
Was due to take the car in for its warrant of fitness (road worthiness test in NZ), shifted to reverse and click! The threaded ball piece snapped clean off, i hadn't even left my garage!
Tried to tig it, but for some reason this specific quick shifter (Japanese), just basically melted. Must have been cheap cast alum. or something? The yoke part was fine, but the ball piece just fell to pieces. Not good.
Ordered a new one, but thankful i wasn't stuck somewhere i didn't want to be!
On a side note, thinking of modelling the white yoke part and getting some CNC'd from aluminium or nylon etc? Definitely will be cheaper than a function first type upgrade.
Anyone keen on these if I do make a few?
After a couple of years of driving with warped front brake discs I pulled the plug, spent less than $200 on new front discs and changed them over. I took me about three hours to change the first disc (nervous about those electronic pad wear sensors) and maybe 20 minutes to change the second disc.
Honestly, I’m kind of embarrassed it took me so long to get new discs. I was busy working on my high soft fades with my short irons, which really hasn’t helped my scores at all.
Of course, the car feels (and stops) like it’s supposed to.
Silly me.
Lots of love given to my new-to-me 996 in the last two weeks �
Oil change
Brake fluid flush
Water pump & thermostat (incl. coolant flush)
Alignment
Spark plugs & coils
Spark plug tubes
Serpentine belt
Timing chain tensioners
Replaced cracked wheel
Still some things to do, but solid progress �
Did the GT3 Center Console Delete -
First, I 3D printed the plastic part, then wrapped it myself in some 4-way stretch carpet. It was a process, but overall saved a bunch of money, and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
My gas gauge has always been a bit...capricious. That's why I use my trip odometer to decide when to start looking for a gas station. But two weeks ago, I filled the tank but the gauge stayed on empty. Usually it would eventually mosey on up to the full mark, but it stayed on empty for the past two weeks. Today I took a long drive and purposely rode on the rumble strips just outside my lane (next to the grass) for 5-10 seconds at a time. After doing this several times, the gauge came up to the 3/4 mark, where it should have been, and started giving an accurate accounting of the fuel level. That confirmed in my mind that the sending unit has a part that's sticking, probably the pivot at the rheostat. I've been using Techron every other tankful to try to clean this area among other things, and in this case, I think the vibrations helped. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
I got my headers and cats back from ceramic coating and refitted along with a new pair of TopGear valved silencers to reinstate the factory PSE (XLF) option. I used titanium studs, brass washer and copper nuts for the headers.
Today, finished the UAOS install in my 1999 C2 3.4. Things completed while I was in there include water pump, 160 degree thermostat, coolant sensor, all 3 timing chain tensioners, vacuum tubing on top of engine.
Tomorrow - drain oil, install Hartech Racing Sump, LN Engineering skid plate, magnetic oil drain plug, epoxy magnet to oil filter canister. Hopefully, Monday will refill oil, power steering, coolant, and hit the road.
No buddy, not crossed my mind. I did it for cosmetic and anti-corrosion reasons only.
I don't drive my cars hard so any performance gains would be largely wasted on me.
It gets gentle periodic exercise runs to keep everything operational, and if I feel like a quick run out,
It won't cover 100 miles this year.
Is that a thing?
it certainly sounds like a great idea, just never heard of it or thought of it. Is this with the OEM plastic housing or a spin-on conversion?
Finally installed the stainless exhaust tips (X54) I got on eBay sometime last year. Initially, I had no idea how bad the bolts were... the new parts having their own brackets inspired me to just break out the Dremel when I eventually got around to this. I did some light cleaning while everything was off, but
@Interference Fit
is making me feel like I treat my car like a winter beater!
As requested.
For the avoidance of doubt, it was fully up to temperature and didn't go much over 5k rpm.
This is absolutely not my usual M.O., but the only way to really demonstrate the sound.
You Tube
Honestly, I couldn't be more pleased, it's perfect. I'd say it sits nicely in between the 'mild' and 'loud' silencers, but somehow with a lot more refinement that doesn't in any way sound aftermarket, yet has just the right amount of volume and bark. Best of all, there is absolutely zero drone at any speed.
One thing I did do before venturing out was to remove the automatically enforced quiet mode that operates between 30 - 50mph.
I found that the
easiest way to do this is to locate the relay board located on the side of the footwell, above and recessed behind the fuse box.
The 'handbrake' device that stops the good times rolling is contained within the taller black relay, in between the blue relay and the one with the pink label.
Like all the most romantic and soothing German poetry, it's labelled with "Abgasklappen" which translates to 'Exhaust flap". I did go looking to see if the windscreen wiper relay was labelled as "Flippen-flappen mukken-schpredden", however this was not to be.
With a thin, flat blade screwdriver and a seventh pair of hands, the outer case can be removed from the bsse, revealing the little joy thieving circuit board within. It almost looked guilty, like it'd been caught red handed.
The trigger for this relay is supplied by a signal from the speedometer, entering via pin number 1.
Which feeds into the orange diode next to the blue capacitor.
Like a bomb disposal technician on his last day on the job, I snipped the wire and bent it up a little to ensure it didn't accidentally re-make the connection.
Hopefully this is useful to anyone trying to remove this annoying 'feature'.
Puddle lights, new LED lights frunk and engine, new
floor mats and a 8 hour paint correction. Paint chip touch up on wheels. Replaced Carrera door stickers too. Then various trim clips replaced.
others have done it. Yes simply epoxy some magnets to the stock plastic filter canister�high temperature epoxy.
hoping to catch any sign of bearing wear early enough to take action�
Yes I have had neodymium N52SH ( 302F) magnets expoxied to my OEM filter canister for 17 years.....Normal cellulose or synthetic filters will filter down to about 20 microns, but magnets will filter ferrous metal down to sub-0 micron......Particles of about 10 -20 micron size do the most damage to rod and main bearings as they can get "stuck' in the 0.001"- to 0.003" bearing clearances.....
Sounds good to me. Do you have any pics of how you have the magnets arranged? Also, do you see anything sticking to the magnet areas of the canister during oil changes?
Wow! nice.
I'm waiting for right and left rear ABS wiring harness repair for my 02 cab.
This picture will be a valuable reference when I start the job
How long did it take to get to this point that exposes wiring harness?
Thanks
Front cleaning finished. Tired but very content. Not concourse clean but much improved, all within my first year of ownership.
Question - if I pull off those black boomerang shaped pieces to refinish, will that affect alignment?
Since I had to refit the front splash guard anyway I ordered new fasteners 999-507-657-09.
Now going to see about a quote to respray the front bumper. It's the only part of the car that has ever been repainted probably (10+ years ago when the PO bought it from Prestige Imports). Intentionally didn't PPF the bumper when I did the rest of the front because I knew at some point I would want to do something with it.
Bought a set of hollow spoke wheels and a catted X-pipe. I'm done now for the next 5 years as my wife would kill me if she realized what I spent over the past few months.
Two things!
1) Pulled the PSE relay and desoldered the orange diode
2) Did a garden hose test for the roof drains now that the back has dried out with the carpet removed and the corrugated connector hose reconnected. I quickly discovered that the primary culprit to the leaking was the right drain being clogged.
Thankfully I had a wet vac on hand to clean up. Pulled the right rear wheel and fender liner to expose and clean the drain, resulting in water actually draining with haste as intended.
@Curt707
It was roughly an hour to get to that point. Pulling the quarter panels is fairly straightforward as is removing the rear seatbacks.
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Saturday - deep clean top-to-bottom
Sunday - drive and enjoy this perfect fall weather in the desert 🍂
(ignore the old weight adhesive, haven't had time to remove it after recent rebalancing)
Took my 1999 Aero coupe to Sebring track this weekend to watch a few friends run a PCA DE could not help myself parked car in pit stall, to be honest just doesn�t look right 😀
Rich
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NO WAY am I going to show my wife these pics! She'll be all over me for not having mine as clean!
My day comprised of REMOVING the ECU and IMMOBILIZER to send away for analysis. What a rotten miserable place to have the ECU. The whole time I contorted myself to unscrew it I envisioned the roll over devices popping up and taking my head off!
Not looking forward to putting the ECU back in.
That was my 996 day!
Appreciate it. Just cleaning the hoses/metal with diluted Aviation-Safe Simple Green. Very gentle brushes used on hoses, more agitation on aluminum with various size brass/nylon brushes and patience. For painted/hard plastic parts like the sway bars, you can scrap off the cosmoline with a plastic razor blade after a solid wipe down then use a polish to remove any residual and brighten them up if you're as neurotic as me. 🧼
haha, it's a labor of love and I still have a long way to go until it's where I would like it to be. For you maybe cleaning the Porsche could become a couples bonding exercise. 😁
I fitted and wired in a PSE switch to my 996.1, but only after I gave it the correct gloss finish.
The matte finish of the 996.2 switches just didn't look right on the early dash.
I degreased it and gave it several light coats of clear with my air brush, before flatting back and polishing.
That's more like it.
Looks like it belongs.
Parts are starting to slowly arrive.
DemonSpeed�s uprights came very quickly and are beautifully finished. Still waiting for Mark to get back to me but I�m committed to getting the cup style engine lid before the end of the year.
Dropped the E88�s off at UPS� I�ve never paid so much for shipping but oh well. Settled on Weiss gold and going to run Michelin P4S all around. I�ve had a million guys via IG ask if I�m looking to sell the TEs.
Everything is ready but we noticed the tranny mount was kinda shot so we�re replacing it while it�s still on the lift, car should be in my possession as soon as that�s done. Can�t wait to drive the damn thing.
The plan is to make this 996 Gathering an annual event hopefully moving it around the country each year, I know and appreciate the similar efforts for the Boxsters, 928s, 944s, and others. I think our 996s deserve to have their own Gathering each year, I would like to keep the Friday-Saturday after Thanksgiving dates each year as most folks have free time during that period and these dates allow time to drive to event and time to drive home before the Monday work week begins. I would appreciate it if all 996 owners and enthusiasts share this plan with thier fellow local 996 folks especially through the PCA regions.
We look forward to the inaugural event here in Sebring this November 28-29th as the owner of six 996 cars I could populate the show on my own but what fun would that be, would rather have friends bring their cars as it is hard to drive six cars to an event😀
Use code
pcar20
for a registration discount.
Thanks
Rich
Previous owner painted the exhaust tips black (probably to match the black wheels). It took a few rounds of acetone, citristrip, 0000 steel wool and Mothers Mag Polish, it's back to natural stainless steel.
Continuing my interior refresh with a DTMS T96 black leather flat-bottom wheel.
The T96 has a thicker grip for a solid feel Smaller diameter = more control, more fun, flat bottom adds lap room and attitude and
nice interior vibe
Gotta love FB Marketplace for decent deals
. Found a 1Up tray locally to replace the Thule Upride. I use 1Up on my trucks exclusively since the first generation 1Up hitch racks and trust them (made in the US with no plastic bits). I'm hoping to sell the Upride for the same price I got the 1Up for.
One headlight tinted, one stock.
Tint in full sunlight.
Tint in full sunlight from the front.
I bought a vinyl headlight tint kit from Lamin-X to see how it would look on my �03. I went with their �tint� color, which is their lightest one next to �clear�. After applying them I carefully cut the headlight and turn signal oval out from the rest. I left the fog lamps tinted because I never really use them. I�m liking how it matches closer to factory tint of the clear side marker lights and the tail lights; I�ve always thought the 996.2 headlight assembly looks much better on light colored cars than dark ones where the sharp angles really look out of place on a car with no sharp edges. Now to see how they hold up in Florida�s non-stop sun and the summer heat!
Leather wrapped center console, brake handle and shifter to follow. not sure about the shifter tho. I like the idea of a custom combo but still looking for inspiration.
I see your ejection seat button and I raise you one on the nerd level.
I missed having an altimeter that all 991/981/958/95B and up cars have (you can program the cluster to show altitude).
My father lives on a small airport so I had him ask his A&P for an old altimeter.
I was able to modify the console delete (and what�s behind it) to mount the altimeter. I wired the post light to the window switch illumination so the dimmer works.
�Aaron
Radiator cleanout day, "RIP Tweety" edition. This is after only 18 months and about 15,000 miles. I think I collected most of the butterflies, all the grasshoppers, and a wee bird(!) in that time.
I installed some screens in the front scoops to keep some of the next round of crud out.
A good reminder to do this project pretty regularly.
Hope you had a happy Halloween and daylight savings time!
I�ve used the extra time wisely: just finished 10 months of ownership of this 996� I�ve done many little things over the months to refurb it�. I�ll post that detail some other time, but this weekend I did my first oil change and sent off a sample to black stone.
This is my first time trying the Porsche 5w50�.My initial thought is that the car takes substantially longer to get up to operating temp. Car runs great otherwise.
I also resealed the heater core cover to try to fix the source of a leak from rain storms that I�ve been chasing.
I�m trying to get in the high mile club!
I�m trying the Porsche 5w50 this time
Took the oil filter apart�.. no metal shavings!
Cleaned the surfaces with rubbing alcohol
Snaked some caulking through
Kept the caulking in one strip to prevent future leaks.
I modified the lower area ahead of shifter in my highly modified 930 (gone) and added a altimeter. I took the lens apart and painted the pointers the correct bright orange-red color and had a shine-down light on it ties to instrument brightness. I figured if a car could go as fast as a 930, we ought to be able to see how high it is. My kind of humor. I took it out when I sold the car, and may put it in 996 C4S. and yes, altitude here is 5500'.
YMMV
Too cool!
I wish I could pull out an unnecessary gauge, like the speedometer,
and put one front and (nearly) center in the gauge cluster!
Hmm, maybe I should find a spot somewhere for this other than on my desk:
That is neat, I didn't think of painting the pointers but good idea.
Funny story, the gentleman I worked for in college selling used Ferrari's used to have a cannonball run up into the Blue Ridge mountains of VA. Highway patrol caught wind of their adventure and set up a road block in "Boones Mill, VA."
While getting interrogated, one of the guys gave his pilots certificate instead of driver's license- it didn't go over well!
--Aaron
Went for the 'loop' ride, which is something a buddy turned me on to. He takes his 67 Corvette convertible on this run. lts stop and go, highway, and winding country roads, for a total of about 35 miles.
Got my car back from the shop and went for a great drive this past weekend. SO pumped.
IMS Replaced with LN
New Clutch and Flywheel - Old clutch was worn down to the rivets
UAOS with AutoDrain
New Water Pump
Dropped the pan and it's looking healthy for ~130k miles!
Hopefully some peace-of-mind driving from here on out!
Hardwired the radar detector to switched power. Since I don�t have heated seats anymore, got a blank batwing to black leather wrap and mounted the remote mute/mark button in it. Also did some console side panels in the plaid houndstooth fabric. Swapped the track mats out for black/orange Coco mats. Got 3 hides of OEM Porsche black leather to wrap my original console in and to start doing other side projects.
Received and �installed� my seat inserts, completing my interior mods. Before pic at the end, but I think the seats, mats, and pedals made a huge difference.
Phone power plug in front of the center console using posi-taps. Green (switched) and brown (ground)
pull the side cover and carpet cover off the driver�s side and you should be able to find the wire bundle
thank you for the kind words, everyone. I went with pasha the last few cars and was a little tempted to do that again, but am glad I went this route. The inserts are from Kim at P1 Designs, highly highly recommend. They were about $1200.
Spent the last two days getting 996 ready for Florida race season first up HSR in December, prepping is getting harder each year can�t understand that it certainly can�t be me getting older 😀
Rich
Join us
Yea that took the whole first day, the second day I replaced all brake rotors and pads, installed Flagtronics, change engine oil and filter, changed gearbox fluid, bleed brakes and clutch, tightened all bolts to index markings, but those decals were the tough stuff 😀
Rich
Not today but over the past couple of weekends. Installed a new OEM steering wheel as the original was a bit worn (at least to my standards). Also installed a catted X-pipe and painted the bumperettes.
Took me a while to get used to the sound of the X-pipe, it sounds smoother than the original cross over and seemed almost too quiet at the lower RPMs but it does scream on top. The engine definitely revs quicker with the X-pipe and the revs also fall faster which has made heel-toe shifting an absolute pleasure now.
Finally decided to tackle replacing my starter and upper power steering reservoir, and of course, nothing has gone smoothly.
-Broke the oil filler neck while cracking the starter bolt loose
-Couldn't get the starter bolts "properly" torqued with the torque wrench, but appear to be pretty tight on there. Going to depend on things and prayers that it's good...
-Currently struggling to figure out what do do about this vacuum line that i broke. Looks like it's the one that goes to the furthest back intake hose. Just super glue together or replace the entire line? Anyone know the actual part number?
Swapped my Pilot Sport wheels for my fave AS3+ set. I bled out old Motul 600 fluid and filled with new. Installed the anodized UAOS to replace the original batch Ver 1 that didn’t like the heat and started to break down after 3-ish years. Installed post side mini cats. What an *** pain! Had old extenders with 90 deg elbow. The bank 2 side wouldn’t clear the engine carrier. Ugh! Great thing about the 996 is it only takes 15 minutes for one guy to get the rear end completely nekked. I popped the muffler bracket bolts out and pulled the exhaust pipe aft just enough to spin the demonic Fabspeed extender and remove. Unfortunately, I spent an hour trying to decide what the hey to do.
Next time I fiddle fart around with the exhaust, I’m just gonna remove the bumper cover, heat shields and crash bar first.
I added a cup holder from Etsy but it interfered with the Rennline phone mount next to the CD holder. It was a good excuse to relocate the phone mount to the hazard switch using yaz996's mount.
Finalized the exhaust system on the 40th. My car was the test bed for the 996 (more products coming). Headers, catless XPipe, mufflers. There's a catted version also available.
How it sounds is attached short video. We were aiming for GT3 sound signature.
If you�re interested, shoot me a DM and I can give you a discount code.
You've probably mentioned it elsewhere
@Ocean Blue
but, what�s your process & products for cleaning up the miscellaneous aluminum bits? I�m about to embark on this journey and would love a tip or two : )
Right on 🧼 I use:
� Stoner's Tar-X Tar Remover (my car collected a lot of tar before my ownership, it�s useful for cosmoline as well)
� diluted degreaser to remove heavy dirt and soiling
� aviation-safe Simple green for aluminum components (Amazon, don�t use on painted surfaces)
� wet sanding w/ various grades with dawn soap & water for exhaust components
� various sized nylon and boars hair brushes
� metric hand tools for removing some pieces for access
� 1/2� torque wrench if you remove cross bars and need to re-fit them to spec
� Plenty of microfibers.
� Sometimes I use a rinseless wash (same I use to wash the car) to go over the area I cleaned up to remove any heavy chemicals that might remain.
For the process, I just put the car on stands and work a small area at a time. Spray & agitate. then remove the lifted dirt/grease with a microfiber. Patience is important, you have to like doing this kind of thing and enjoy the process. Areas that aren�t covered in factory wax are really easy to clean. I did all of this in an hour (didn�t remove the plastic trays yet)
Don�t want to clog this thread, I�ve received several questions about how to go about this, best to PM me DM me on instagram @barelybradley 😀
There�s none. It�s crazy how you can barely tell there�s an exhaust in the cabin, but it obviously sounds drastically different outside of the car.
Soul�s revisiting the 996 platform. We decided it was worth having the option of XPipe or a crossover. Both options have the option of having cats or not. But most notable is we designed the XPipe to be convertible where you can buy a catted version and if you go to the track you can swap out to a bypass pipe and vice versa. This is an option you have to give us a ring for as it�s not something offered as an option on the website, but we designed it so it�s easily swappable to be catted or not catted.
Yup, I'm one of the fabricators/engineers/sales guys at Soul. We've got a couple other products coming out for the 996 platform that just finished R&D and are going into production. Couldn't quite make the Black Friday deadline but it will be available next year, but we made sure to have the XPipe available for the Black Friday Sale.
Our Black Friday sale is going on right now, if you have any questions, feel free to reach out and I can get you sorted.
Put the 996 away for the season.
Changed the oil, washed, added fuel stabilizer and filled the gas tank.
Now it�s in the garage sitting on Tire Cradles hooked up to a CTEK waiting for next year.
Installed a matching Alcantara and plaid hand brake to hopefully finish off the interior updates. Figured out how to disassemble the parking brake handles and couldn�t leave well enough alone.
I forgot to take any pictures of the parts, but the next one I will and post them on my interior thread. The handle grip basically slides off the end with some shims slid into the sides with gentle prying at the base. There may be some light glue residue helping keep it on.
Figured it was time to refresh the Becker CDR220 radio, so I sent it in to Becker Auto Sound in NJ a week or two ago. Got it back in about 10 days and am impressed.
Had a sticking CD player that didnt eject CDs (yeah, i still have some), the display was missing a couple of sections, am/fm radio reception was deteriorating, and some of the control buttons weren't working. Everything was fixed and works well now. I also had them add Bluetooth capabilities.
Next steps are to replace the radio antenna amplifier in the passenger side "A" beam and replace the speakers.
The refresh cost was $300 and Bluetooth was $150. For guys like me that use their 996 as a second car and don't want or need all the modern technology in their car, Becker Auto Sound offers a great service. Glad I did it.
Pretty easy to do. Slide out the CDR220 and unplug the wires and send to Becker.
When you get it back, plug in the 3 connectors.
Then slide it back in place.
It has improved the sound with the old speakers. Next step is to replace the speakers as well as replace the antenna booster. I did consider the Blaupunkt Frankfurt and may have gone with it, but the price went up big time and i decided to do the Becker refresh.
Comes down to whether the 996 owner wants a state of the art modern sound system with a big screen, or just wants music and bluetooth capabilities every so often in a classic form. I didnt want a big screen and didnt need all of the nells and whistles. Most of the time I just listen to the engine and exhaust. I drive the car because of the engine/exhaust sounds and driving experience. If I am driving on the highway, I will listen to music.
I hear you. I just prefer the simple classic look, feel and functionality of the 996 interior over the 997, 991 and 992 models. It just works as a driver's car. So does the Becker.
Nice job -- looks great. What clear coat did you use?
I just did a brand new Alfa Giulia rear carbon spoiler with Spray Max 2K (Catalyzed clear). I sanded the original finish, and then applied the 2k. I've never seen carbon hold up long term -- even on the interior, and this one is parked outside, so hoping the 2k clear will keep it looking like new. I guess I'll find out in a few years.
I agree. Which is why I just added the Becker Bluetooth module in my CDR220 and replaced the dash speakers with new OEM. Just enough to be able to hear the podcasts that I listen to when on a long drive. For the most part, I just have the radio off and listen to the exhaust.
How far down did you sand the carbon fiber? All mine is greenish and wonder if a 'light' sanding and new clear coat 2k would bring it back to original color?
Put her into hibernation for the salt season....and brought her oil filter with lots of black plastic bits to my local indy for a consult.... Springtime is chain rail guide time at ~60k.
Becker Auto Sound are a one of the very few vendors I recommend unequivocally, and I've probably bought or had reconditioned 6+ radios from them over the years as well as speakers, antennas, their Bluetooth adapters, etc. Great folks and great service. Looks great.
Yours looks so good I thought it had to be 2k. That stuff is pretty amazing. That was the first time I ever used it and couldn't be more impressed. I think the "sweet spot" is 3 coats -- which what is gernally recommended -- I added a 4th coat and picked up a little orange peel. It was no problem to wet sand out, but it was perfect after 3 coats.
In my case it felt a bit "wrong" to sand brand new carbon fiber that looked very good as finished from the factory, but I know it doesn't hold up long term, so I went for it. I didn't sand all the way to the fiber (thought there was some potential for it to end up looking uneven if I did that), just scuffed it up and top-coated 2k. Won't know for a couple years whether it makes it durable. The 2k dries hard very quickly, but can take a several weeks to fully cure. I used 3m Imperial Hand Glaze after a couple of days (which is still porous enough to not impede curing), but will be applying wax now that it is fully cured. I'll use Maguire's Ultimate paste wax, then top it with Optimum Spray Wax, which has built-in sunscreen, which should also help preserve the carbon fiber. The Optimum Spray Wax only last a couple months, but it takes about 30 seconds to reapply.
I think if I did it again I�d use the headlight 2k which has some UV protection. I did have a little orange peel that�ll be wet sanded here soon and reinstalled. You always do good work so I�d love to see some pics of your carbon.
After getting my 2000 C2 back on the road after LN Nickie upgrade. The last thing I wanted was any engine noise. Over the last two weeks I was thinking the worst case, valve, lifter or transmission issue. I did the stethoscope probing and could find the noise which was only noticeable at rpms under 3k and in 1-2 gears and idle. Yesterday I when probing again and I touched the resonator value and low and behold there was my noise. Searched the forums and then disconnected the electrical connect and no noise. That was a great Thanksgiving find!
Here is what the disassembled handle looks like. The grip core has friction against the two bosses (near the green tape) on the underside near the tip making it hard to pull off.
I just received an ebrake cover from redline goods and attempted to remove the cover, but felt like I was going to rip out the entire ebrake. I'm going to try a heat gun on it and hope that helps.
Once you remove the cover, did you just slip the cover back on? Does the material tuck under the base of the ebrake?
the material �untucks� from both the front and rear of the grip core. Try to get the button �liner� removed. It�s unlikely that you can get the old leather cover off in a salvageable condition. Heat will help with some slight twisting side to side. If you can secure the base to something immovable it will also help a lot. Not sure you can do this with the handle still in the car.
The new cover will slide over the grip and need some contact cement to re-tuck the fold over material to the inside of the core before pushing the grip back on. Put the tip liner in after the grip is back on the handle.
Im in the process of refurbishing some hand brakes in Alcantara and maybe leather for reselling.
Put my OEM Motor Mounts back in.
With the REIN back order, tried a few different "affordable" motor mounts and they were all bad. Don't waste your time with Hamburg Tecnic or anything off eBay/Amazon.
The cheap mounts are also slightly lighter than the originals which could be the reason they don't isolate vibrations as well. Originals weigh ~2.3lbs
I'll check these out. Reached out to the local dealership that is classics friendly to see how much they are asking for the originals. If its too much, I'll look into these.
Continually impressed by your work and progress! Especially great work on the hardware - everything looks fresh, especially the brake hardlines. I know they often get really cruddy and having that seize in the caliper is a pita.
Recently acquired a refinished set of Hollow Spoke wheels and installed them this past weekend. I also removed my front bumper as I'm getting it resprayed (license plate holes filled and stone chips repaired); while the bumper was off decided to clean the radiators.
Had to pay someone to remove and replace a wheel bearing that was *loudly* failing as I don't have a 20 ton press to do the work. Apparently it was so stuck in the carrier, the shop had to sub out to a machine shop to mill/extract it so he wouldn't crack the carrier.
Looks perfect. Those buckets peaking through the windshield are so nice.
Appreciate that pipete. Been replacing hardware too where necessary. Fresh hex screws and bolts make a difference and aren't expensive from Porsche.
Approx 6,000 miles in my first year having her (including tonight!).
When I returned home my Black Friday order was waiting for me 😁
Knocked over an e-scooter in my garage while pulling out the Christmas decorations. Of course it fell towards my car and put a dent and scratch in the passenger door. Doh!
I banged my left front fender with an air compressor. Just a dent, not a scratch. Went to Dent Rangers for paintless dent removal. He spent about an hour on it. To this day you can't tell there was a dent. PDR highly recommended. Those guys are artists in my opinion. You can contact almost any car dealer and they will know a guy.
Started my subtle touches with the interior and got my new armrest cover on, along with some padding. Did much better with the install than I thought.
Still need to do my e-brake and shifter boot, along with a new shift ****, 997 shifter and FF shift right kit.
Now I need to find someone to cover the steering wheel for me...
I cleaned and detailed my rear engine mount cradle whilst I had access.
I removed all the tooling marks with fine files, smoothed off all the sharp edges, then worked up the grades of wet n dry paper and Scotchbrite pads until I was happy.
I"ll give it a couple of coats of high temp matt clear coat to protect it.
That looks so, so nice.
Funny enough yesterday I began fitting new Torx hardware and cleaning up the underside of the rear bumper. While in there was looking at the state of my brace. Aiming to take a page out of your book when I take the bumper off eventually to clean up the cats.
New tie-rod ends along with inners up front. Had some small play. This will only be the 4th alignment (that I can remember) this year on my Aerokit car! I also raised the front a little to get rid of some rake.
�Aaron
Got stranded the other day due to one of the tensioner pulley suddenly disintegrating and derailed the accessory belt. On further inspection, The other idler pulley is showing cracks. Changed out all the pulleys to billet Rauch & Spiegel from Pelican. My 5th tow for this car.
Reasons for towing
1st, Bought the car as a roller, towed home
2nd, fuel pump quit,
3rd, Alternator bracket broke,
4th, IMS timing shifted
5th, Plastic pulley failed
No other car I've owned has had this many un-powered rides home. Finally subscribed to AAA
Wow that sucks and is a weird failure mode! I've kept the OEM ones and simply pressed out- and in new bearings. Don't regret that after seeing this. Really wonder what could've caused it.
Do you have the bearing size info for all the pulleys? I had a bearing grenade on an older metal pulley that "should" be more durable. Replaced with plastic but would like to have the old ones with new bearings around as a back-up.
Awesome - thank you! Going to order a set for all pulleys and restore them. I know the metal ones can start to corrode in places so I'll see if they can be polished and cleaned up nicely.
Please let us know which bearings you end up with (I�ll be doing the same soon).
I�m a bit confused on the pulleys - are the original ones plastic, and the aftermarket ons metal � and is the better solution to so re-bearinged OEM rather than replacing the pulleys?
I'm traveling right now, so I can�t look and see what�s currently in my 996.1.
Shared them a few posts back, 3202 2rs bearings. As far as I know the original ones on my 996.1 were metal, might have changed over the years tho.
I could not see any use in replacing an iron roller that feeds a rubber belt as I don't think the roller itself will wear much. Rust is a good thing to check for, but I guess if you cover the running surface with tape, you can simply sandblast them and repaint. In my case they looked fine.Therefore I chose to simply replace the bearings; that way I also knew for sure I had SKF bearings (Just the bearings were almost as expensive as some aftermarket pulleys... so can't imagine those parts using quality bearings.)
Removal and installation was straightforward. Pushed them out on a bench vice with some big sockets and pushed them in the same way. (Did heat the pulley itself with a ceramic heater)
This is somewhat dependent on the year and if they were replaced by previous owner. In my case (2004 40AE) the stock pulleys were metal. I think at some point Porsche moved to plastic ones and many people have replaced them with plastic since as well.
The common adage is that the metal ones are better because they won't crack, like the plastic ones. This is true, except the fact that they can also fail but at the bearing. In my case, I had the bearing literally eat itself and lodge itself stuck to the point where I couldn't crank and start the motor. So even a nice machined pulley can still fail if the failure is at the bearing, which could happen. I've since installed the plastic ones but plan to rebuild the old metal ones and keep as spares. I'll post more in my build thread.
Who is bringing their 996 to Werks Union at Amelia Island on Friday March 6, 2026? There is usually a bunch of us, maybe a get together on Thursday night at a local restaurant?
Rich
I fitted X pipe cats and cleaned up and aligned all the heat shields, replacing some of the failing anti-rattle heat pads at the same time with some more substantial material. Also went a bit 'deep' on the rear crash bar, which I then gave a couple of coats of matt clear.
Really great work. Seeing shining metal heat shields makes my inner Porsche nerd very happy.
I'm doing similar maintenance cleaning next.
Questions
� Do you recall the torque value on the metal crash bar top bolts?
� What anti-rattle pads did you go with? I know I have a rattle in one of mine, how could you tell there were failing?
� When aligning the shields back, do you meaning bending them back into shape?
I have new hardware to reattached the bumper and new OEM exhaust tip clamps. Fresh exhaust clamps were already fitted in the spring so it should be easy to remove the mufflers/heat shields for cleaning, and hopefully a Fister upgrade.
Thanks a Ton-
Bradley
I�m quite the opposite.
My last car was a BMW 135i.
1st electrical (fuel injection)
2nd electrical (ignition)
3rd electrical (fuel injection)
4th electrical (fuel injection)
5th electrical (ignition )
6th cooling (plastic tubing burst)
It was towed home 6 times in 2 years, so I bought my 996 and parked the 135i.
After 2 months of not being driven I put it up for sale.
So far so good with the 996. (50k miles and 8 years later)
Crash bar bolts are 63 ft/lbs
Anti-rattle pads were just sheets of self adhesive heat shield material of amazon. Nothing fancy, just more substantial than the fluffy baco foil stuff that the factory installed. I only replaced it as I could see it peeling and falling off in places, so stripped it all off and cut new pieces to size.
To align the heat shields joins, yes, this is just a case of manipulating their edges to fit close, but without rubbing, as the actual mounting location hard points have little to no adjustment.
I bought my first 996 today.
Technically I bought it about a week ago but I'm supposed to take delivery of it tomorrow morning, so we'll just say that I just bought it today, lol.
It's a 2002 Turbo Manual Coupe... Polar Silver Metallic over Metropol Blue full leather. It's my first turbo Porsche. I currently have a 914-6 (swap) outlaw car and I've had a few 993s and a 997 in the past. This 996T was a bucket list car for sure.
I haven't been on Rennlist in years really... Not much 914 content here, lol. If this car used to belong to any member here, tag em. Lemme know! It's got a Marski tune, Speedtech 2.5 Quiet X-exhaust, some Feal 441+ coilovers w/ Tarett GT3 F&R swaybars, (etc), it has been RWD converted and has had a gearbox rebuild using GT3 1/2/3 gears, a GT2 slave and a Wavetrac diff. I'm very excited ot enjoy this car. Thanks for letting me share.
- Rich
Now the long wait for better weather
The 11� rears. They�ll fit, right?
My first post here so I�ll include the car as well. Bought it in August, 1999 Ocean Blue Metallic over Savannah Beige. 51k miles.
Replaced the brake switch at the brake pedal. Brake lights were not working. I did an oil/filter change, check tire pressures, checked all the lights. Old brake light switch was original so 27 years is not bad. 150K miles. With shipping from AutoAtlanta $34. One of the cheapest repairs I've ever done!
Probably in the minority, I'm quite a fan of these 17s on the 996. So understated and really complements the conservative styling of the 996.1 cars. Pretty build you have.
Discovered I have an internal rattle in the left muffler box. Hoping it can be opened + repaired.
Meanwhile, degreasing heat shields, cleaning plastics and awaiting new misc nuts + bolts from Porsche. 😁
Sick! those look great. Appreciate the reassurance.
To answer the earlier question, the offset is 60. If I remember correctly, they're close to the GT3 wheel specs.
Thanks! The 17s photograph really well, especially in dark settings. I don't love them as much in person or during daytime hours when you can clearly see 4" of rubber haha.
You have the 18s, right? If I had those, I don't think I would have purchased a new set.
For reference j put these on a 99 Carrera C218x8.5" ET45 Race Silver APEX SM-10 Porsche Wheel 18x11" ET60 Race Silver APEX SM-10 Porsche Wheel with 235/40ZR-18 and 295/30ZR-18. Stock ride height and i love it. Apex has a nice fitment guide.
https://apexwheels.com/fitment-guides/porsche/911
Yes my understanding is this is the GT3 set up. No rubbing no problems no nothing.
Hi everyone. I'm looking to hook up my radar detector high up by the rear view mirror but don't want to have the cig connection hanging down across everything. Do any of uguys know if I can get power out of the dome light area where the convertible top latches? Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks,
MB.
It's not difficult to remove the trim pieces on the A-pillar and over the windshield. Tap into the switched power in the center console and run the wire under the dash, up the side, and then have it come out behind the mirror. I did that for my dash cam.
I did this as well. I found out the hard way - on a car with the sunroof, taking any power from the overhead area (again - with sunroof) would cause the one-touch sunroof to cease one-touch operation.
It is not hard to run across under the trim and down to the prewire mentioned above for the phone.
-Tom
I restored my headlights today using
cerakote ceramic headlight restoration kit
. The kit was easy to use and produced excellent results. I must say that I prefer using the
3M Trizact Foam disc 02087
over the included 3000 grit discs, since the 02087 flows over the 996.1 headlights much easier.
I also replaced my engine air filter and will be replacing my fuel filter over the weekend.
The car is filthy but the headlights look good!
Out of car restoration
It's a bodywork eraser, it's used to remove glue residue from emblems without scratching, for example, but it works wonders for removing traces of balancing lead glue, it can be found for �10 almost everywhere on the web.
Changed the rear pads,rotors, speed sensors and wear indicators. Not hard. Now I know what happens if you plug the wear and speed sensor in the incorrect slot. Surprised when the speedometer didn't work. Painless fix though, I could reach through the rims.
Made a leather bolster protector for the driver�s side Pole Position
. It would have only been a matter of time before something regrettable happened.
I can�t wait to get a proper sewing machine. The stitching looks like hell, but it is just a sacrificial item.
Referring to the stitching looking like hell tells me you have clinical OCD. I should show you the steering wheel cover job an "upholster" did with my wheel...
Looks great!
This is a product ready to go. I'd buy a bolster protector for my cheesy comfort seat today if it were available. It's the first thing to get beat up and makes the seats look like crap in pictures. Let me know when you make a version for the stock seats. I'm in.
Swapped wheels with someone. I wanted the Carerra II wheels to continue with my OEM+ project. There are some imperfections (curb rash and chipped paint) but it's good enough from 10 feet away. I will be getting the blemishes refinished next week.
Finally (!) installed the Rennline pedals for clutch and brake after almost a year. That was after I swapped the reverse light switch. I noticed a GM logo on it - no wonder why it failed!
I started having corrosion at the base of the negative post on a 6 year old battery. I figured it was nearing end of life so installed an H7 AGM battery today.
Console delete before and after. I only lost one nut, and broke one piece of plastic (that was hidden by the black piece in front of the shifter). The seat heater controls were moved to the left side of the horseshoe. I still need to find a targa switch (the top switch to the left is for the garage door opener). Phone mount was moved to the hazard switch area.
Looks great. Curious about how challenging was the garage door mod. Been interested in doing this, although I'd need to find another switch to use since I own a targa.
Couldn't be as bad as the steering wheel cover i installed once long ago in my earlier years while on a long drive on a relatively remote interstate freeway... But, even that was a significant improvement over what it had been. Given the circumstances i was even proud and it sure helped to pass the time. It's not a recommended technique.
It's really not too bad. One of the first mods I did since using a phone app to open the garage door was cumbersome. Some soldering experience is helpful but not necessary. This is what you end up with for a 2 door garage opener. You plug them into the appropriate posts on the switch and stash the remote control behind the horshoe or beneath the ashtray and you're good to go. If you want the switch lit up, then you'll need 2 additional wires that connect to another switch that is lit.
WOW!!! Can�t believe someone charged you to do that to your wheel. It�s time consuming and tedious, but I would be ashamed to put something out like that
Yup. He ended up wrapping my entire wheel with electrical tape as well, which ended up pulling up some of the leather when i removed it all. Needless to say, i didn't end up paying for the "job" and i was fortunate enough that the steering wheel cover company agreed to send me a replacement cover. Going to take extra care at choosing an upholstery shop this time around.
It really isn�t very difficult. The contacts are small but with the right solder gun it�s not bad.
Watch this.
You Tube
I did it but only for one door. I currently have a mini opener in my ashtray that works all three doors.
I did this to mine a bit ago - used this video and another as reference too
You Tube
Also referred to this Rennlist thread -
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ener-hack.html
Found some leather + carbon items the previous owner had for me.
had to clean up the defroster covers and will reattach the carbon strip. Leather is in 7/10 shape but very fixable.
Heidi and Franny's "how to" videos were always the most comprehensive I've seen. At first glance, the videos look way too long for the job being discussed, but they always cover important details and no time is wasted.
They are no longer doing car videos -- they're sailing now and doing sailing-related videos. They are having a great time, no doubt, but their car content videos are missed.
Their videos are definitely great and glad I came across this DIY. I'm going to try and apply the same logic to my key fob that I use to switch the valves on my exhaust. I've been wanting to make a more OEM implementation of this for a while now vs the generic key fob. It's quite a bit smaller so soldering should be challenging.
I traded my Flow One wheels for Carerra II's a few weeks ago. My Flow One wheels were like new but the Carerra II wheels had some minor curb rash and scratches but I still personally thought it was a good trade since I wanted to go back to more of an OEM+ build. Today, I got some of the wheels refinished by a guy that does wheel refinishing for the local Porsche dealership. These guys can do amazing work in a short time.
I was using a window switch for my garage door opener hack. I finally got the Targa switch which has the image that looks more like a garage door. Unfortunately, it's a matte black but it's good enough for government work. Also, lighting it by wiring into the seat heater switch doesn't work since it turns on the low setting on the seat heater full time so the switch is not lit when headlights are on. I may end up relocating it to the ashtray dummy switch again when/if I relocate the spoiler switch to the horseshoe.
Like Tamiya spray paint?
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spray...3-gloss-clear/
I haven't used Tamiya paint since I used to build scale models of planes when I was young.
I did the same thing back when the garage door switch was by the ash tray. I tapped into one of the window switches for lighting and it worked fine. However, for some reason, when tapping into the heated switches (outside terminal posts), it turns on the heated seats at the low setting. Did you tap into the windshield defroster on the other side of the horseshoe to light up your switch?
If you figure it out, please update us. I don't personally care to illuminate the switch as I rarely drive at night, although wouldn't mind making doing so if it's fairly straight forward.
I was finally able to get it to light using the rear windshield wiper switch. The window defroster, door lock and seat heater switches didn't work. If you install the garage switch hack in the ash tray console, you can also connect it to the window switches since that also works.
It's a fairly simple install. Remove HVAC controls and both sides of the horseshoe to access the switches. Run 2 spade connectors with wires long enough to reach the other side of the horseshoe to connect with the wiper switch.
I did the same last night. It seems like a right of passage in owning a 996 to take the bumpers off and clean up the radiators. It also reminds me that my car has been through 6 owners before me and a front end incident. There were a few broken tabs, mismatched fasteners, miscellaneous broken plastic pieces and underbody trim in front of the wheels that had missing chunks. It's not really that bad for a 26 year old car with 100k miles. I'm hoping the radiator grill cover helps reduce the amount of debris for next time. While I had the front end off, I took off the passenger side headlight and ran an emergency frunk extension cable release to just a little past the fender liner, just in case.
She still cleans up nicely.
crazy!
My car is in shop from a deer accident. I was going to add the mesh covers but it made me think..
if I add them, I would definitely have to remove the number to clean them out right?
currently I get up in there with a blower and/or air gun attached to my air compressor. Seems to clear out the leaves pretty well due to access.
just worried if I add the covers, whatever does get in will be harder to approve.
thoughts?
I don't know why it still surprises me. This is my sixth time doing it.
Car looks fantastic! Clearly in good hands.
The grills will keep the big stuff out. But the issue is that the debris, big and small, gets between the condenser and the radiator. These need to come apart to get it out. I've never had grills on mine. Maybe
@flipnidaho
has had grills for a while and can comment. There is a reduction of airflow through the rads with the grills, but it doesn't seem to create a cooling problem for most street folks. Good luck with the repair!
Just got mine delivered and will be installing next week. I was wondering about the three settings for the shifter and was leaning towards a using the top setting wanting the shifter closer to the steering wheel. I looked into CAE but while beautiful, a bit much for me. What is the advantage of the middle setting?
Pulled the engine and transmission out for a larger service, including (at least) changing VarioCam -chains, -pads, -actuator seals, RMS, AOS, vacuum canister, AOS hose from head to head, all vacuum lines, waterpump, thermostat and all 3 belt pulley bearings (2x idler + 1x tensioner).
Clutch set and IMS has been done 30K km ago, so should be fine, but I'll inspect those before making decisions what to do with them.
I'll do also major engine and transmission as well as under carriage cleaning.
Nice winter project
It does reduce the big leaves and debris from collecting in radiator area. However, the little stuff still gets in and adds up eventually. It would be easy to snip the zipties to remove the radiator covers and re-install when done if all you want to do is to clean the outside.
Did you have to remove the alternator to get to the voltage regulator?
I think that is my issue, battery is new, tests healthy, 96%, cca is 800. Occasionally the car won't start and the voltage stays just under 14 and sometimes fluctuates rapidly. Its very inconsistent. I have the regulator, may as well put it in.
Thanks for the thoughts. I know this is an old post.
OK may not seem to fit this Thread but hear me out I had to move my two historical entry models so I could detail my Aero 996 for Werks Reunion, made sense when I wrote this maybe it�s Monday fog before coffee😀
Rich
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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x2000/img_8883_770abe858231f3ca7d973c8d2e0e2e0e068d400c.jpeg
Not today but I hit a deer last week after replacing the starter and starter cable because I was having hot start issues. I had not driven it for that reason and after fixing the issue I wanted to start driving her more. Could have been much worse. So now in the process of sourcing a black driver side fender. I'm sure a a skilled body man could fix it, but I think for the amount of time and money it would take. I can find one for less than what it would cost after paint and within a lot shorter time frame. I just want to get back behind the wheel! Maybe I'm just impatient but I hate having to wait on other people haha
What do you guys think?
I chose the middle setting because I wanted a short enough throw without having to fight it. I'm going to drive it around and see how I like it. Reverse takes a bit more effort.
I just pulled my alternator thinking the regulator went out. Car would stay at 12.6v running. Brushes were good but replaced the regulator nevertheless. When I reinstalled, heard a clicking noise. Turned out the one way pulley was slipping. Don't know if it was a coincidence, but now it readily charges to 16v. I'm going to watch it for a while. FYI, you might also want to check the starter wiring harness if starting is intermittent. Cant tell if it's bad just by looking at it.
If I remember correctly, the low setting would cause the bottom of the lever to rub against the carpet necessitating cutting the carpet. I kept mine in the middle setting.
Starting is weak at times, or never starts, just enough juice to open the hood before the battery dies. then It starts if I charge the battery. When I had aaa jump it last week. They ran a diagnostic that said the battery was at 95%.
Given the voltage fluctuates when driving sometimes is why i am thinking alternator. But any advice is appreciated.
The idea of the pulley occured to me too. Did you have to tighten it or anything.
The pulley will slip on a new alternator, it is designed that way. Thought the same thing until I had a new alternator in my hand and did the same test.
--Aaron
Thank you.. I have decided to leave them off for now.. I do regularly blow out large debris (which I realize may also push some farther in) and seems to work for me.
Me either. I was thinking about a spring sale. Every six months for the past 4 years Carvana would send me an offer to buy. They started at $18K and every offer was lower until they got to $13.8K. I LOL'd. Then last week they sent an offer (intent) for $20K and we ended up at $21K.
The car is a TIP with 58K miles and its IMSB has not been updated. It doesn't have much by way of options. I only drive it 1K miles or less a year. Carvana made it REALLY easy. They ask a few basic questions. Send in five pics. Done. I realize I might have left a little $$ on the table but I'm ok with that. Replacing the IMSB on a TIP is more expensive than on a six speed, as the transmission and motor must be dropped as a unit. I had an estimate of $5K for the IMSB and RMS and water pump. No mention of the AOS or coolant expansion tank as it was original.
Thanks. I bought badly last time - my first Porsche. I bought on BAT from a dealer (1600Veloce) and was lucky in that they were honest and sold me a great car. Next time I will buy a 6 speed in a better color (perhaps) with no IMSB issue etc. I was driving last week and just realized - TIPS are boring.
Prepped the Aerokit car for the Sebring DE during the club race at the end of this month.
I finally installed the 3.8 airbox I've had on my shelf- along with a FSI Stage II in front of it
--Aaron
I go through the front inside the car and it only takes @ 60 minutes. Much easier to do this way then going through the front. You have to wonder what Porsche was thinking with using foam???? It's nice to have heat and AC again....lol
Thanks, I ended up using the top setting and what a difference. I had the 997 gt3 shifter and this numeric is so much better. Heading out to Roebling today so I will be able to test it on the track this weekend. A bit chilly but the weather says 50 as the high tomorrow.
Hi Rich,
Looking forward to meeting you in a few weeks.
If I didn't like driving on our mountain roads here so much I would be gutting my car or selling it and buying a 996 Cup.
Think we spoke some time ago when I was selling a 996.1 Pastel yellow cab I had rebuilt the motor on.
Can't wait to get away from this cold!
--Aaron
Shazam! I've got the same weather as you, and I'm not going to do this repair until it gets a lot warmer! I bought the same kit of plugs to install.
Instead I installed my Coopduc oil temperature gauge and took a ride in my heat-challenged (due to disintegrated foam) cabriolet. Ambient temperatures (25 degrees) insured that the oil never got warmer than 206 degrees F .
I wasn't happy with the matte targa button (used as a switch for the garage door hack) compared to the rest of the gloss buttons on the dash and center console. I sprayed it a couple of coats of Tamiya TS-13 and it is matching better. Also, drove to our boy's basketball game. Adrian's headlights are a must have.
Surprisingly easy swap out of rear shocks today! Can�t believe how simple this was, with the help of YouTube : )
Special Actives with stock C4S/USM030 springs. New oem mounts and hardware.
Just hope the fronts are as hassle free!
Installation was fairly straightforward, I used the supplied wired plug to plug into the phone power connector under the console. I needed to run a wire to the DME behind my roll bar (I have a cabriolet) and I tapped into the existing signal wire for oil temperature. This step is a little more involved on the cab vs the coupe due to having to remove the rear seats and pass the signal wire back to the DME area. Then you have to put the top into service mode to access the DME and attach the wire. As you can see from my pics, I wanted to put the display in the console, which was very straightforward. The seller, member Coopduc, has an option to install the gauge at the bottom of the instrument cluster, but it would have blocked a couple of warning lights that the cab has that the coupe doesn't.
When you start your car, it displays "oil Temp' for a little while until the oil gets up to about 120 degrees, then starts displaying the actual oil temp that is sent to the DME by an existing sensor on the engine. There are other threads on Rennlist that go into more detail, but I was very happy that the install was straightforward and well documented, and the display fits very nicely into an oval hole in the horseshoe that formerly had a blank in it. Lots of people say this is the gauge that the 996 should have come with!
Thanks Bradley, that is high praise coming from you!!! I�ve been working on refreshing the rear suspension since the beginning of December, almost finished. My inspiration has been
Little Ocean Blue
. Although I�ve only achieved a 60% likeness, I�m pretty happy with how it�s turned out. I�ll post a few before/afters when I�m complete : ) Thanks again!
Yes
@Skeptikal12
, I had to loosen the coffin arm eccentric bolt to get the suspension to drop low enough to get the shock bolt in. This was all part of a complete rear suspension refurbishment for me so it wasn�t that big a deal.
Everything got torqued at ride height once the shock was in.
I will say that getting the bottom shock bolt in was a bear for me on both sides. Much patience required! : )
Installed puddle lights. Took about 2 minutes each, the simplest thing I've ever done to my 996...lol
Puddle light had a Xmas sale , 2 lights for $60 shipped, decide to try them.
They do light up the area much better than the stock lights,
nice on a dark night and being led probably use less power.
Just not sure if they look good, or tacky..? What say you..?
They can custom. Their site is wrong as they have the 997 in early 996 years. I am chatting with them and although they have set designs, they can custom lettering as I am looking for Turbo. Will post as soon as I get a price. Althought if too expensive, I would go just for the lettering Porsche
You're correct, for some bad marketing reason, or not understand Porsche model designations..? they don't realize the 986 lights fit the 996 perfectly.
I ordered the 986 lights, here is the receipt showing what pattern I ordered.
I bought mine from Amazon for ~$15.00. I also bought some
pigtails that mimic the stock bulb connectors and soldered them on to the puddle lights so they would be plug and play without cutting any stock wiring.
After all that, I decided not use them at all.
I like them to some extent but wish they didn't have so much illuminated using the yellow green color. It might be better if it were closer to gold or maybe just white?
ya, its my pic, thought a no light on dark garage would be best. Thats was wrong as in person its just gold no green yellow at all like in the pic. Is this pic any better.?
I asked chatgpt to be a Porsche gold tech and a professional detailer persona. In summary:
Gold Tech Approach for Your 996
Peel decal gently with heat (hair dryer low setting) + plastic tool. (no razors)
Adhesive remover
(3M or Rapid Remover, light application)
Neutralize wipe
— here you can use
Meguiar’s Quick Interior Detailer
or mild APC (15:1)
Finish with UV protectant
— 303 Aerospace is ideal; Lexol Vinylex is okay if you want a second layer
💡
Tip:
On black visor vinyl, always do a
small patch test
with whatever product you choose (Meguiar’s Quick, Vinylex, or APC) to avoid a glossy/hazy spot. AL sun + black vinyl will show every sheen difference.
More details if anyone wants to know:
Adjusted Gold-Tech Method (Southern Sun Safe)
1. Shade & Cool the Car First (Non-negotiable)
Do
not
work hot
Let the interior cool to ambient temp
Heat gun use should be
minimal
On AL cabrios, interior heat already did half the work for you.
2. Heat: Hair Dryer > Heat Gun
Hair dryer on
low
6–8 inches away
You’re
softening adhesive
, not re-molding vinyl
If the sticker lifts without heat →
skip heat entirely
3. Mechanical Peel Is the Main Event
Fingernail or plastic razor
Low-angle peel
Slow and steady
On these cars, the decal usually releases
in one piece
once started.
4. Adhesive Removal: Less Is More
Best choice:
3M Adhesive Remover or Rapid Remover
Alcohol:
only if absolutely needed
For your setup:
One light pass
Microfiber only
No soaking
No scrubbing
If residue fights back → stop, re-warm slightly, then wipe again
5. APC Choice & Dilution (Important)
Use a
very mild APC
:
15:1 or weaker
One wipe only
Purpose is neutralization, not cleaning
6. Finish Protection (Critical for AL Cars)
Apply:
303 Aerospace Protectant
(very light coat)
Buff to matte
This:
Rehydrates sun-dried vinyl
Prevents future cracking
Eliminates uneven sheen
So my new to me 996.1 had poor headlight light performance, and I somewhat hated driving at night due to the reduced visibility and on-coming drivers' lights/glare.
The headlight lenses were pretty clear, being it was a garage-kept vehicle, yet it was still not confidence-inspiring for night driving.
Ok, to address them, I went the progressive route:
1. Headlight polishing (~10%), some improvement,
2. Then I went with the Retrofit Lab kit (60% better),
FINALLY, I grabbed new HID bulbs as I was unsure how old the originals were.
Well, let me tell ya, I have one word to describe it: HOLY WOW.
. 1,000X better
Night sure how much the Night Breakers really made the difference as compared to any other new HID bulbs, but the
new bulb and projector refurb combo is amazing.
The high beams are on another plane. Seriously.
I totally recommend the upgrade to anyone who complains about their headlight performance. Like do it today. Seriously.
Improves driving safety - worth every penny.
Excellent Upgrade! I did the SRS and Black Shifter along with the Cable Ends and a Shift ****. Been extremely pleased.
Next best thing.. remove the Clutch Spring. You will thank me if you do.
I just put together my SRS kit on a 997 sister i picked up but haven't installed yet. Did you need an alignment tool for the shifter or were you able to install without it?
Since the engine is already out, pulled out coils and plugs. After that I took pictures of each cylinders while piston was at the bottom - all looks real good with NO any signs of borescoring
Ordered bunch of engine parts from Porsche to start the maintenance work, since there is no massive borescore remedy to worry of. Much more parts to order using other channels...
@EVOMMM
Lol. I am just glad the Litronics/Xenon didn't require the removal of the lens with baking. I am not the super DIYer, but this was within my wheelhouse.
Did another great update too - I was a Hella-va good time. Thank God for YouTubers.
@MEZGER-TT
Mine didn't, I was working with the Litronic/Xenon headlights that came in the car and had a silver ballast box in it.
Not sure if you are working with Halogen set if it is pnp with the NB bulbs. My guess is you may need to do some ballast upgrade. However, A quick AI search seems to indicate it would be plug and play.
The key, to me, was updating those old degraded projectors designed in the 1990s.
I'd recommend watching the video on the Retrofit web site where they disassemble and dissect the entire projector housing which helps explain the loss of light output.
Good luck.
I have the Xenon with silver ballast too so it should be good.
Yeah watched that vid looks like quite a bit of work. How long did it take you to do one?
@MEZGER-TT
It wasn't bad, first one took about 35 minutes, second one about 15 minutes.
(I'd say I am on the slower side for doing projects)
It was interesting project. You can always go incremental and do the bulbs first. The pair was
$110 on Amz actually sold by RetrofitLabs.
Had the product validation codes from Osram manufacturer which checks out. Btw, the newest ones are the NB2.
It definitely delivered the promise of eliminating most of the slop compared to stock and the result is a much more sportier shifting. It still required some getting used to, at least for me as I am not an advanced manual driver, because it required a bit more precision. But would definitely recommend it for sure.
I did not use an alignment tool and FF's instructions did not require one. Just make sure to mark the position of the shift cables before you take them off (similar to attached).
I had difficulty doing these 2 steps:
1. detaching the connectors from the window buttons (during the center console removal step).
2. snapping the retaining rings into the front and back bushings grooves. the external retaining ring pliers kept slipping from the ring and i realized later i should bend/position the tool tips more outwards (left and right) so the rings don't slide out of the tips.
Been working on my rear suspension for a month or so. I was hoping for a little closer to
Little Ocean Blue
but fell a bit short. The amount of cosmoline sprayed all over the underside in a random pattern makes it tough to clean. I finally had to accept “good enough” for things nobody will see : ) Ready to start on the front now…
All Meyle parts. Disregard the scuzzy oil pan, I have a new UIDS to install next oil change.
A couple before/after phone pics.
The control arms are all new Meyle parts. For cleanup I primarily used a razor blade to scrape the cosmoline off, then a grey Scotch-Brite with Simple Green Aviation cleaner. Lotsa scrubbing and there are still plenty of little details I just couldn�t get.
Glad that you�re pleased with the results
@Deu1001
Do you think you or I were closer on the assessment score of the brake handle fit and finish now that you have it?
Last night I lost reverse when I went to back out of a parking space. Shifter went limp side-to-side and my immediate thought was that a cable popped off the transmission. Made it back home with 1-4 despite no actual detente to fall into.
Turns out that the cable end for reverse had fell off the shifter after a screw backed out. Guess I didn’t install it well enough.
Man you killed it. Awesome work. Look forward to seeing the rest. Try Stoner's Tar Remover (or similar) when you do the front, makes quick work of the areas where the cosmoline doesn't want to just chip off like it does on the rear.
Bradley
Hi Y'all,
If you don't drive your car regularly, weed will grow out of your dashboard. Ask me how I know
But when you finally got to enjoy it, dash displays a map of the Nordschleife. I think.
Today pulled the thermostat and waterpump out. Will replace with low temp thermostat and Meyle HD waterpump (plastic impeller).
Only one of the bolts broke and luckily the easiest one. Drilled it out, picked the old bold remains out and re-tapped the threads.
Also one that I was a bit worried of doing today... pulled out the CPS and it actually came out fairly easily.
Then pulled bank 1 camcover and scavenger pump. Will change the VarioCam chains and pads - and will also rebuild the VarioCam actuator with new O-rings.
After that is the bank 2 turn (and much more to do before snow melts for spring time).
Pulled the Bank 1 cams and found top cam pad in a good condition while the bottom cam pad was pretty much past due...
Tomorrow is the time to change the VarioCam actuator seals, new cam pads and cam chains.
Not all today but over the last two weeks. Changed the water pump, LN low temp thermostat, new belt, new Porsche engine mounts (swapped out the RSS mounts that came in the car), put the wheels back on after powder coating, and cleaned the radiators. There was some random red overspray on parts of the front end, not sure where it came from, but it cleaned up fairly easily with Goo Gone and some scrubbing.
When changing the waterpump I noticed the passenger side engine mount nut wasn�t threaded nearly as far up the mount stud as the drivers side. After trying to tighten with no luck, I backed it off to find it cross threaded. Ordered two new studs from RSS but then decided to install OEM mounts.
Installed the new stud from RSS - mounts are for sale if anyone needs them, they�re barely used:
Water pump actually looked really good for 39k miles. No play in the shaft and the impeller showed now signs of degradation. Pretty sure it was the original, as I had to cut the old gasket off because it still had the second gasket attached to it (just like how the gasket ships before you trim it). Surprisingly, the car seems to get to temp quicker with the low temp thermostat. I tested both the old thermostat and the new one in boiling water, both seemed to work fine.
I vacuum filled the coolant and got almost 6 gallons in but, after driving it today for the first time, it seems to have sucked a bunch of the coolant down into the system, so I�ll have to refill the reservoir in the morning. Good news is it held vacuum with no drop for 5 mins prior to filling, was surprised a bit. Still not sure how to tell when the coolant is actually at the max mark, the design of the tank makes it a bit difficult without opening the cap and sticking my finger in.
Refinished wheels. Powder coat has a bit of a orange peel look to it but I wanted the durability vs paint:
Also painted whatever these things are called on the rear bumper. Cleaned up the plastic, used an adhesion promoter, then rattle can spray painted. Turned out pretty good for the cost/effort.
Now just waiting for Bilstein PSS10s to show up so I can start the suspension work.
Can I ask you with the bumperette delete plate there are openings to the right and left of the license plate lights correct? In person does it look off to you? I wanted to pick one up but realized it would have those two open spots and had second thoughts. i really like the euro look though.
This is how I bought the car. I think I�d rather have the bumperettes than this, it looks a bit cheap. I did find a used bumper reinforcement that still has the metal pieces that the bumperettes cover incase i decide to go back (you have to drill out the rivets on the pieces the bumperettes cover and then remove them).
I�m going to have a shop do some paint work next Spring, so I�ll chat with them and see if they can fill the holes in the bumper and make it look OEM. If not, I�ll put the bumperettes on and have them paint matched.
Also, the bumper is cut on the �top side� (if you were on the floor look up) for holes for the metal reinforcement pieces, so the cheap plastic plate thing doesn�t really cover it all. There may be better ones out there, I have no idea where this one came from.
Went out to the garage and took some pics for you. The reinforcement leaning up against the wall is the used one I bought. See where you need to drill the rivets out.
This is how my bumper is cut, not sure if this is OEM or if it has been modified.
hi Y'all,
Modification done on all my vehicles, the flasher (Amazon GS-100A LED Brake Light Flasher) i insert into the path of the third brake light do not affect the impedance of the lights and so far has never trigger a Bulb error code on my late model VW TDI wagens. (2015 & 2017). Those VW have the technology to detect bad or burned bulbs. This LED Flasher seems transparent.
A bit of extra safety can go a long way.
For
AeroF16
On a side note: You have the QuickJack backwards lifting your C4S. The end with the big square warning label is for the "heavy end", meaning "engine end". It is also the end the end that has radial shift. On a Porsche 911 the shift is backwards, something to remember if garage is closed or other stuff in front/behind car. I have 7000TL so "maybe" which end is which is not as critical, but they didn't put all these warning labels all over for no reason. I do not know if any other QJ model (3000, 5000, 6000 etc) is different.
Quote:
Heavy End Placement: Always ensure the label side of the lift frames is positioned under the vehicle's heaviest end.
Flexibility: While the sticker/label side is intended for the heavy end, the units can be used in either direction as long as both frames are oriented the same way and positioned safely.
YMMV
Yeah, it works fine just like this. Super stable, not worried about it. This is how it�s oriented for all my other cars so I just leave it.
I imagine it might matter more on a longer frame car with a bigger delta between front and rear weight.
Today I replaced the Bank 1 VarioCam seals (1 was completely missing...), cam chains and chain ramps.
Lifters, cams and cam bearing surfaces look real good at least on this Bank 1.
Next weekend the saga continues with Bank 2.
Speaking of Quickjacks. I picked up a used one locally (5000SLX) and tested it on the car yesterday. Except for the one side retracting marginally slower than the other, all is well. No leaks. This should pay for itself over a couple of years (intend to replace control arms in the next few weeks).
Just a few tips to try that have worked for me....
Without car on lift, cycle lift up all the way and down all the way a few times to bleed all air out. Check to make sure there is enough fluid in pump reservoir. If that doesn't do it, check for kinks/restrictions in the lines. Make sure all pivot points are lubed and not binding.
Be carefully with a car up on lift and one side going down/up more than the other putting car in a precarious angle, this can happen fast if not paying attention. Obviously car can tumble off lift from that depending on how much the angle is. If the different lift height/angles happens, stop & raise or lower car back up/down and try again...
99.999% of times the lift works flawlessly, but, I've noticed if lift hasn't been used for a while(months), this can happen. Best to cycle up/down a couple times before putting car on lift first time after a long no use period to make sure system is bleed of all air and working properly...
jmo
Why the heck should LEDs cause issues with the locking system? (I'm not an electrical engineer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express!)
I have been seriously considering installing these cool lights, up to now!
Custom Puddle Lights unit. There is probably a way to add some kind of resistor to make it not interfere but I did not love the lights enough to look into it. I was able to figure out it was the puddle lights because I kept hitting the key fob to lock/unlock the car when I noticed that the key fob worked after the interior lights went out (after shutting the door). The only thing I've changed out were the puddle lights so I unplugged those and the key fob functioned normally again.
@AeroF16
Nice trim! Did you paint it in place or disassemble the dash?
I am hesitant to drop the dash to do mine due to potential rattles.
I may have a few squeaks due to changing out my air vents to black, but I love the color contrast.
The 2nd owner of the car had it from 2005-2021. I think he bought extra interior parts, had them painted, then had Porsche install them best I can tell. I have receipts from his local Porsche dealer that talk about installing painted interior parts.
It was done well, the paint is in good shape (2006 time frame) and will hold up. I�m more of a minimalist, so I�ve been thinking about changing it�
Mine only fills up about 7/8 of the tank, won�t fill all the way. I haven�t really worried about it, assumed it was a ventilation issue with the ventilation valve.
Is the E6 fuse suspect? Haven�t heard of it before now (though I haven�t searched).
I should add�
I think the car was ordered with the center console, horseshoe, and what not paint matched.
The 2nd owner I think had some additional parts painted. Still looking through tons of for sale ads and BaT auctions trying to figure out what would�ve been painted from the factory and what the 2nd owner added.
Spent the last couple of days at the HSR Sebring event sad to say nothing but issues so far, lost 1st-3-5 gears due to cable coming out of bracket, got a slow leak on right front due to debris pickup I think in the paddock, threw a weight off left rear, just nickel and dime things but � for want of a nail, a shoe was lost and then the whole battle� was true for Ben and still true today just the horse has changed 😀
Rich
Ooooof.
It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat.
Theodore Roosevelt
That fuse opens the valve to let fuel in. If you poke at the fill hole and you hear a click I don�t think that�s your problem. Sounds like the fill sensor in the fuel tank. Might want to look at this too,
https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...201-944-00-OEM
Rechecked the bank 1 cam timing (just to confirm...
) and closed the cam cover.
Also changed the vacuum tank and AOS and the brether hose between the bank 1 and bank 2.
No time to do the bank 2 VarioCam pads, -chain and -actuator seals today - next weekend for those.
Troubleshot window drop problem. Found slack in one of the cables, used a zip tie to take the slack out and verify that was the problem.
Worked like a charm but I hate pulling the doors apart and don�t want to go back in here anytime soon, so it�s sitting like this while I wait for a new regulator to get here.
Finally installed the UAOS with track drain that my wonderful father got me for my birthday. I was able to sneak the original AOS out from underneath without taking the intake manifold off, took about 45min to get the old one out and the new one in. The front half was the pain. Getting the oil fill tube in and out was a pain. But its all in and good to go!
Is that the genuine green kit from Porsche? Did you consider the Stimmt one? I have the B&M SSK and it�s getting difficult to get into first, reverse and even second sometimes. Don�t know if it�s the cold weather or worn clutch.
Yes, basic trim tool will work. Pretty much like taking off any door panel you�ve ever done. Plenty of videos for reference, a few hidden screws that the videos will show. Once the screws and fasteners are removed, the panel lifts up and out.
The electrical connections on the inner door handle are a bit short, so once the panel is removed disconnect those to give you more access to the rest of the stuff connected to the panel.
The trim piece where the mirror adjustment is, the base comes straight out at the bottom but then lift up and out to remove the entire piece. There is a hook type tab on the top of it.
When removing the vapor barrier, I used a hair dryer to heat up the adhesive around the edges and help remove the barrier without tearing it. Honestly, that�s probably the worst part of the whole job. I bought some butyl tape from Home Depot to secure/weatherproof the vapor barrier when I reinstall it.
You can buy the door panel fasteners, see picture below. I had one that was broken, I just ordered extras to have around. Think they were $0.89/ea.
Yes. I used a zip tie, as discussed in this video below, to verify the problem but then left my car torn apart while I ordered a new regulator. Should have it by the end of this week.
Probably could�ve just left the zip tie but I don�t want to go back in the door again anytime soon haha. The video below shows one mount on the regulator where it bolts to the bottom of the door. There is another mount on the side of the door that he still has covered, by where the speaker is. That is where I found the cable with slack.
I installed a zip tie, reconnected the battery (disconnected because you will be removing the air bag), did the window limit learning procedure (hold switch in each position for 5 or so seconds after it reaches the top/bottom limits), then verified the window operated properly with the slack taken out by the zip tie install. Then ordered the regulator.
You Tube
I too did something similar. In my case, the passenger door window would drop and move to the rear, preventing the door from opening. Fixed by repositioning the window more forward in the clamps. The biggest problem I had was disconnecting electrical connectors. I always struggle with them. Now to reset the airbag light with my durametric.
The throw on my original shifter was really long. The 997 one is supposed to be 15% shorter but to me it feels 40-50% shorter, though not too short. Just right. Perhaps the wear in the old one made the action feel longer than it really was. The new one has less side to side play in it but it still has a little bit of give to it so it's not overly stiff and notchy. To me the feel of this is perfect and Im glad I didn't have to try a bunch of different solutions before finding this.
Picked up from Porsche dealer 8 each of new cam sprocket bolts (M6 x 12mm) to my 3.4 M96 engine and the cost was 4,98� EACH = total of about 45� for 8 small bolts
Maybe I should be selling small M6 x 12mm bolts for a living
Manufacturing aerospace fasteners is what I do for a living. The unit cost for a small lot run of a fastener that size would cost a lot more than that. I never mind the cost charged by the dealer for specialty fasteners when they're readily available. I share in hope it'll make you feel better about your purchase
Got the new window regulator installed today. A few lessons learned. It seems like a small thing but it makes such a huge difference in my satisfaction of driving this car now that the door doesn�t hang or not shut right because the window is working correctly.
1. Absolutely order all new door panel fasteners - they�re cheap and you�ll probably break at least one removing the panel. There are 9 of these fasteners, though 1 of the 9 may be different. The 1 on mine was broken but it�s possible it wasn�t the same style fastener - pic below for part # ease.
They can be difficult to remove (I drilled one out) but they install easy. Drop on end in and then twist clockwise and it slides into the hole in a corkscrew fashion.
2. You can mark your old window all you want, using tape or what not as reference lines when installing the window back into the new regulator, but it�ll still need adjusting. I took my old regulator and messed with it a bit to really understand how the adjustments worked.
There is really 3 adjustments I think. Physically slide the window fwd/aft with the clamps loose, then the fwd height/aft height adjustment which I adjusted with the screws for the stops on the clamps (pic below), then the inboard/outboard adjustment for the window pressure against the seal in the door adjusted by moving the bottom regulator mounting points.
3. If I were to do it again, I�d probably just buy new insulation panels instead of reusing the old ones. A video on Pelican�s website said they were expensive so I disregarded. Turns out they�re only like $110. I use butyl tape to reseal the old insulation panels instead but, knowing what I know now, I wish I would�ve just bought a new one. Depends on how much of a perfectionist you are.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...SABEgJFz_D_BwE
4. There are multiple foam/rubber plugs in the door to allow for the door to drain (bottom) or adjust the window/regulator. 4 on the bottom are the same size, 2 on the top for clamp adjustment are smaller. Here are the part numbers if anyone needs to replace or is missing them. Mine were in good shape.
Thanks for the description. It sounds like a great upgrade. Was it plug and play, or did it take some finagling to get the ferment correct?
Maybe a separate thread on the job is in order?
Thanks for posting!
Today I rebuilt bank 2 VarioCam actuator and changed chainramps to VariCam unit and also the chain on this bank 2.
This bank 2 VarioCam rebuilding took for me only about 20 minutes while on bank 1 it took me a bit over hour - getting faster
This forum has been incredibly helpful while working on my 996.2 for a couple of months with various projects. So far, I installed a new double din alpine unit with CarPlay. It was many days of trouble shooting to tap into the stock Bose fiber optic system. I wanted to retain the factory amp/speakers since they are high quality. After 2-3 weeks, everything was completed and works great.
Today, I finished the rear wiper delete. Trickier than expected but turned out well.
Tomorrow, I�m installing a new air filter, and resonator delete.
Tuesday is gundo hack day!
Friday, full exterior wash and wax.
Also waiting for the replacement center brake light gasket since the current old isn�t great.
Considering darker window tint and the door handle issues needs fixing :-/
Brand new clutch has the car driving like new. Did the IMS too.
Small projects but a big difference for enjoying the car so far. This is my second 996 and loving it.
Exciting week ahead~
cheers
Following the advice on Rennlist, I bought a used 997 shifter, and put the Function First bearings in.
Then swapped shifters.
I haven't driven the car enough to see a "real" difference, except I notice it is sometimes difficult getting it into 3rd.
Maybe I'm not doing it right.
I did borrow a green shifter alignment block to do the job, and didn't have any real issues in the swap,
but not sure of the result.
Paul
(someday I will make a separate post with pics...)
Yeh it's totally plug and play. There's a bunch of videos on YouTube you can reference. A few tips I would give that weren't explicitly mentioned:
1) Be careful taking the bit of the center console that contains the ash tray and window switches. I broke a little plastic gear hidden deep within that I think (??) is supposed to dampen the motion of the ash tray opening
2) When removing the center console there is a brown wire that connects to the lockable storage compartment that is hard to see and fragile looking so make sure that is removed before pulling the console out
3) When putting the console back together test the hand brake and check visually for perfect alignment after each screw. I had to reassemble mine because I didn't fit it perfectly flush the first time so it was causing a slight friction with the hand brake lever
I also have this mod. My answer is purely subjective. While I like it because it�s newer, smaller, and sportier, I also feel it�s a bit too thick, and the flat bottom part always catches me off guard when turning the wheel. So I�m considering going back to stock at some point. Maybe I'll have the old wheel reupholstered being putting it back.
What is the deal on this? there are some expensive items I need to buy but I can wait until the tariff taxes are stopped. I realize the daily changes are pretty flippy floppy but, given that, is an end in sight? If so then how long until they go away?
I wouldn't hold my breath. There are other options for the Government to use on tariffs and they will. In all honesty, other countries were screwing the US and it's about time someone had the ***** to stand up to them...but thats another discussion.
Saw an article where companies may slowly rollback some of the increases but Wall Street thinks the new embedded prices will be accretive to corporate earnings-- so there is a little hope, but I wouldn't hold breath.
I wonder if Porsche will rollback the MSRP increases.... lol
Same exact shifter setup and I'm occasionally having a hard time with third as well, although i think it's more of the common cold issues as well as my cables possibly needing some adjustment.
Besides that, it's been a huge difference from my older shifter, that was loose and creaky. I also added a BFI **** which I'm sure also contributed to the overall feel.
Did you remember to have the old shifter in neutral before you unhooked the cables? Did you pull either cable to get them to fit? if so, you may have caused a slight misalignment.
Shifter was in neutral, and I also marked the cables to make sure they were set the same. Although, it very well may be that they already needed adjustment or possible replacement. The shifter I replaced felt/sounded "squishy" and while the new shifter is significantly tighter, there's still some noise that I'm unsure whether it's normal or not.
the gundo hack sounds good, and hasn�t made it too loud or obnoxious. I�m happy with the tone and glad it won�t upset my neighbors. I was worried that straight pipes would be too much volume so this felt right. Between the gundo hack and intake resonator delete, it�s got plenty of nice tones.
Nice, watching some of the Youtube videos from Slakker racing, it seems like the X51 pan with the metal baffles is an overall good investment even if you are not tracking the car. I have this on my to do list with next oil change in a few months.
Started doing the front control arms last night and did some cleaning. I noticed the front bearing wasn't so smooth when I gave it a spin so looks like I'll be doing those as well.
Is SKF a safe alternative to OEM?
Yes, SKF is a premium brand for bearings, wouldn't be surprised if they even supplied OEM. I'd buy them without even thinking about it.
Familiar pics btw, doing the exact same thing right now, stripped the brake calliper thread while I was at it ;')
Cancelled my order for PSS10s yesterday because I got another email with at least another 2 month delay!
Ordered all new stock suspension from FCP Euro instead last night. Got an email this morning that the Bilstein B4s that they show on their website as in stock and shipping in 1 day are actually on back order with no ETA.
Emailed a bit with Gert today at Carnewal (Belgium). He has a pretty cool setup with Koni adjustable dampers (painted black to look OEM) and OEM RoW Springs. Springs are 3-4 week backorder but I�m going to give these a try, hopefully 3rd time�s a charm!
Gert was very knowledgeable and very helpful, I know others have spoken well about him around this forum and it�s all still true it seems.
http://www.carnewal.com/products/996...ith-Koni-Sport
Took mine to a body shop to see about getting this horrible roof replaced.
How someone mangaged to convert a targa to a hardtop and do it this badly is beyond me.
Yes I shot him a random email and he responded quickly and entertained all my stupid questions professionally and politely, with lots of good tech info and personal experience. Definitely top notch service.
How does the kit ride? I�m really looking for comfort over performance but I do want a bit of a drop and I want as OEM as possible. I was willing to pay a little more for the PSS10s at $3100 but no way interested in Ohlins at $5400 for what I need.
Installed LED taillight kit from Adriantaillights.com.
Easy install, pretty happy with it, pictures don�t really do it justice, it looks way better in person.
The biggest difference is the reverse light, as you see in the picture. The rest of the lights are more subtle, but the LEDs make the bulbs red vs the orangish look the brake lights have OEM and the turn signals are a bit more orange. Both the brake lights and the turn signals are much more full in color than OEM.
The pictures for the LEDs on the drivers side are deceiving. The inner part of the taillight at the bottom, towards the heckblende, does not look that orange. It�s much more red and blends closer to the portion of the taillight just left of it. The color of the turn signal is a little more orange but the real difference is the color seems more full.
Overall, sleeper OEM style mod and happy with it for the price. Driers side is LED, passenger is OEM.
I bought my car in July planned to drive it on weekends and to the office once or twice a week. It has turned into my daily now; the drop is just right and ride quality is great. I have the shocks set in the middle for dampening. We don't have the best roads here in LA, my wife doesn't complain when she rides with me in the car compared to my other lowered cars that she doesn't enjoy the ride on the same roads. The Koni shocks are great for the price; the car handles well also when pushing it. I haven't had the time to explore adjusting so can't speak on that, the rears require the sub to be removed which I will eventually play around with.
Awesome, that�s exactly what I�m looking for. Thanks for the reply.
I�ll probably just leave the sub out for a while until I get it dialed in. I have other cars to drive that are better daily drivers but I want this to be a fun car that I can also take the Wife on a road trip in.
I ordered all the other parts from FCP Euro for the install, bump stops, rubber bellows, new mounts, all the nuts and bolts, etc.. Also grabbed new sway bar links front and rear. Any surprises on your install or recommendations?
I pulled my ride out of winter storage today. I was absolutely giddy pulling off the cover. I stored the tires with max pressure per tire manufacturers instructions for storage. After lowering the pressures to driving psi I detected no flat spots. I also had no signs of critter droppings, which was more than an added bonus. I had it on CTEK trickle since November and she started immediately.
It completely joyous to perform a spirited freeway on ramp merge experience in my little minx.
I have the same interior color and would potentially be interested in purchasing the T96 should you go back to stock and are looking to unload it.
It's sweet!
This is very easy to do. Do this same time as you change the oil next time. It is a tight fit, so when installing the pan take some care and tighten the pan bolts going few times around the pan in increments in cross pattern.
Also, there is no gasket so you'll need a good sealant - Porsche recommeds Loctite 5900 (I use that as well), but some people use different stuff.
Good idea to change out oil return tubes to updated 997 as long as you're in there and trying to help oil pressure instability.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...SABEgLS-PD_BwE
Installed a new oil filler tube and refurbished original starter.
Took the oil heat exhanger out, cleaned it and changed the seals then placed it back - original seals were totally flat. Luckily those have not yet leaked regardless that some small traces of water leak can be seen on two seals...
Installed some goodies today. Leather fuse box cover, leather ignition surround, leather hazard light surround, new OEM hood supports and a 997.1 airbox I bought. During fitting I somehow lost one of the rubber grommets that the airbox sits in while I pulled it out to re-adjust while struggling to fit the inlet pipe which was rather challenging. Anyone know a part number for those grommets by chance?
Next up for tomorrow, new front drivers fender liner as current one had some cracks when I got the car, tackling a slight rattle in my drivers door, ABS wheel sensor for the front.
I�m chasing the single beep when I lock my car. My fuel door actuator prong was missing, took the wheel liner off and luckily it just fell out. So I was able to put it back in place along with the emergency release but the single beep persists. still chasing it, since everything else, I think is fine, my next stop is the ground when I installed my PCCM+
for others this what the grommets behind the evap canister look like, it was a pain for me, so just pull hard.
eBay used 996 cover, sanded off the fins then CF fabric wrap, epoxy and 2K clear coat. 6/10 only tbh but lessons learned and I had great fun.
Why do this ? I don�t want a competition noise no power open filter. The last pic is a FB thread I�m following that has promised potential.
Ok, I couldn't resist - I had to add more leather to liven up the look and feel of my new-to-me 996! @Cboxell. Nice work again!
Now, I just need to figure out how to ship him my dashboard!!
Thats a cool project, i've done some carbon work on motorcycle parts but never thought of doing that.
Although i'd love to also have it breathe through an additional intake on the right hand side if i was to do it (GT3 Taco wing on mine). Maybe like the Mezger do on the turbos?
What the FB link if you dont mind sharing
Replaced a headlight switch that is starting to malfunction with an Uro unit from FCP Euro. Found out during the process that the vent open/close lever is broken. It's always something with old plastics.
Fixing brittle plastic. The ball end plastic for the vent controls broke off so I just drilled it through and used some thin gauge wire. For kicks, I opened up the original headlight switch I replaced to see how it works (and how it started to fail) and you can see that the 26 year old plastic bits have disintegrated. I was surprised the switch still worked. My recommendation is that if your headlight switch starts feeling a little loose, replace it. There is no reason to replace it with a Porsche OEM headlight switch since that is now made in China. Get the URO part from FCP Euro (also looks like it's made in China but with a lifetime warranty from FCP Euro) for 1/3 of the price.
Bought�more�parts haha!
It�s a slippery slope. Decided to replace the dampers and springs with the Carnewal C4S RoW kit with adjustable Koni dampers and OEM RoW sport springs (posted in this thread somewhere, I think).
The kit should arrive Thursday, so I tore the driver side of the car apart to make sure there were no surprises or parts I need to order that I may have missed.
I bought the car with 36k miles on it - was told it was stored in a climate controlled garage but didn�t have any evidence if it. After a thorough review though, all the rubber looks really good, even the shock mounts. Only thing that looked deteriorated was the bump stops.
Kinda felt dumb for buying replacement everything, but I wasn�t about to go through all this work and not have new parts. Then I noticed the ball joint on the driver side lower control arm had a bit of play in it - so I decided to replace it.
But, of course I cannot just replace the one side, I have to do the other too. But now, of course I can�t just not replace the tie rods and other controls arms because, well I�m already in there and they�re half apart!
Welp, there goes another grand! Since I didn�t have to take the rear control arms apart, and they�re look good, I�m leaving those for another day!
That makes two of us. I'm also doing the wheel bearings. My tie rods will have to wait for another pay check though. I'm also doing the rear control arms at the same time.
New C4S RoW kit showed up from Carnewal. I really like the OE+ factor of the kit. OE Porsche RoW springs with Koni adjustable dampers, but painted black instead of the standard yellow to look more original. Comparison pics below.
What is interesting is my original rear shocks are very stiff, it felt like the rear was riding on 2x4s.
Makes sense that they would be stiff than the fronts, since the engine is in the rear, but the rear Konis out of the box feel much more like the original front struts, not nearly as stiff as the original rears. Excited to have the adjustability of the damping and a slightly lower spring.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/_dsc0224_32270630a3304b4d63c63bce503a7bf9feb2944c.jpg
Did you leave the damping at whatever it was at at when shipped?
I can�t believe, when compression the shock shaft, how soft the Koni is compared to the OE I�m pulling off the car. That was the whole reason I did this, rear felt way too stiff and clunky, so I�m excited.
I adjusted them to the middle setting. I have been happy with it so haven't tried anything else, but one day will try to maybe go up a little with stiffness just to see and test out.
Spent a lot of time cleaning today. More to do tomorrow, I hate doing this type of detailing so there�s only so much I can take in a day haha!
Pulled the brakes apart, cleaning the hardware, and cleaned up the rotors with a wire wheel, then painted the hats. Not perfect, I�ll clean up some of it tomorrow, but the rotors are still well within spec and will be probably for my ownership of the car, so putting in the work to clean them up was well worth it.
Slowly putting the suspension together - probably going to take another weekend before I am done the way things are going. Just taking my time to do it all vs taking short cuts and coming back to do it later.
Well a lot was learned today, met with a lot of frustration as well.
First off - the VHT caliper paint I used for the rotors, I missed a crucial step: baking the rotors to cure the paint. I cleaned one rotor with brake parts cleaner prior and it ate the paint right up. That�s when I realized I made a mistake and re-read the directions. 200f for 1 hour. Was worried about smell using the oven, this worked great:
Was really excited about the Carnewal kit for the black painted Konis but today I found out they are just normal yellow Konis with an extra (not great) layer of black paint on them.
The paint is super weak and scratches easy. The rear lower strut bolt is very difficult to get in to place, videos are deceiving, it�s very difficult. The paint didn�t survive, I�ll have to touch it up. Not a big deal:
The real frustration started when I tried to do the front driver side. That extra layer of black paint , over the normal yellow paint, makes the strut too thick to fit tolerances for the spring carrier and the strut mount in the hub.
I had to sand and sand the top part to get the spring carrier to slide over the strut. Not a huge deal, but a pain.
The strut mount in the wheel hub was a huge pain in the *** though. The tolerance is too tight and I basically had to pound it in with a dead blow hitting the spring carrier to get strut placed correctly. The small tab on the right side of the strut (bottom pic) has to seat up against the wheel hub - basically 2+ inches of pounding away with a dead blow, not fun.
That�s done so that, when Porsche dealers grab you by the ankles, lift you up in the air, and shake every penny out of your pockets for routine service, you can read the part numbers.
Everything has a reason.
Decided to sand the Koni struts all the way to bare metal and apply a thin coat of spray paint. The depth of the female end of the spring carrier (where the strut inserts) is 64mm, so I sanded down that far plus a hair more then sprayed it.
My one coat of this paint+primer gave good coverage and is very close to the factory Bilstein overall strut diameter. I probably could�ve gotten away with a light second coat. Not an exact match on sheen but close.
Since I knew this was going to be a multi day/week project for me, wanting to get a bunch of other stuff done while doing this, I decided to only do one side at a time so I could reference the other, factory side, if needed.
Today I finished up the driver side and started the passenger rear, When taking apart the OE shock I realized that I had put a washer on upside down on the drivers side. Now I get to take that apart again haha.
The larger blackish, bowl shaped washer right above the bump stop is upside down�
Nice job
@AeroF16
. I recently installed Koni sport actives with original paint, and the original paint is already laid on too thick, so when you slide your spring retainers over them, the paint also flakes of (adhesion of the paint is poor too).
Luckily enough in my case it wasn't too bad and for some reason I had an old paint marker brush, that had exactly the same color, so I was able to spot repair it.
Ran into a bit of an issue during my suspension refresh. In my quest to deep clean everything as I go I broke the bolt for ABS sensor. I made matters worse when I broke the extractor bit trying to get it out
.
More mad at myself for breaking the bit inside than snapping the bolt. Think I may have a machine shop try and get it out. Hopefully without any damage to the sensor.
Ugh - that sucks dude. Hope you can get it out. I replaced all the control arms this weekend and the connector that bridges the ABS and brake wear sensor broke into pieces. New one is like $170 per side, which is silly given it's just a wire. Might see if I can put something together for less. On the other hand, new control arms are looking great + adjusted ride height be adding about 5mm on all corners. Rear might see a tad more..tbd.
I just ordered a replacement sensor as I am getting an intermittent fault from my front right. Hoping I don't snap the bolt when I go to remove it. Wondering how you broke the bolt?
The head of the bolt was soft and should have been an indication of the integrity of the bolt. Even though I used hand tools and was not rushing it I should have taken extra care and gone very slowly for this one bolt. Slowly loosening then tightening and repeat until it's fully out. Hope that helps
These bolts and sensors usually corrode themselves 100% stuck. Had the same issue. Solution was to destroy the sensor and weld a nut on top of the remaining bolt threads, then took it out.
Bought myself a 2nd hand speed sensor for 20bucks.
Fixed the issue with the driver rear washer being upside down, reinstalled.
Spoke some more with Gert from Carnewal, he must think I�m a real moron because I am doing this. Told me he has never had to sand the shock nor has he ever heard of anyone having to do it.
Now, normally, I�d agree. A yellow painted Koni shock probably fits fine. A black painted Koni shock probably fits fine. The issue is, Koni painted this batch black after already painting it yellow, which is too thick by about .010�.
First pic is how far I can get the spring carrier on the strut housing before I�d have to start beating the crap out of it with a hammer, which Gert claims is how he�s dealing with this. I did that on the driver side, couldn�t get anywhere close. These don�t even start sliding down the strut housing. For comparison, they slide perfectly on and off the OE Bilsteins with no force.
The second pic, below, shows my stop sanding marking with the green tape. That�s about 10mm further down than the spring carrier must go to be fully seated (which is 64mm).
What�s really frustrating is that it sounds like Gert knew Koni messed up his most recent batch with the two paint coatings and instead of fixing it, he just sent it. I�ve tried to get him to take responsibility or make Koni take responsibility but that clearly just isn�t going to happen.
Super disappointed. Hopefully all this work is worth it.
Nice work. If you haven�t gotten to the rear diagonal arm (or whatever it�s called) that connects from the subframe to the lower control arm, that�s a lot of fun.
The nut on the subframe side is difficult to get to - you�ll want a very slim wrench to get in there and it�s big, like 21mm or something like that.
Thanks - I'm all done with the job now but still making small adjustments to ride height. I think you're referring to the "tuning fork" arm. It's much beefier at the connection to the lower control arm but yeah it was a tad tricky to get out. A 21mm worked but you had to insert it from the side as the space is very tight. Aiming to get alignment done friday. Even though I marked all settings to get me "close" with new arms/bushings and some height changes it's all out of wack and cars feel wiggly.
My driver's rear control arm is giving me a hard time. The eccentric bolt doesn't want to come all the way out. How did you all remove the joint end of the control arm? I can't get my ball joint separater in there.
The ball joint separator I had was not the greatest and wouldn't really fit around the ball joint / rubber boot but I was able to get it on at an angle, top and bottom, and used a wrench to tighten it up until it broke it loose. Don't use an impact gun as it will knock the separator loose. Turning it by hand with a wrench is what worked for me.
You will love the setup/ride.
I did it to my 04 C4 but used Bils instead of Konis and it was a complete transformation. I was thinking of doing the same thinsg with my X50, but too many people talked me out of it and did CO's instead.
In truth, I do not recall the Bils as it was like 15 years ago. I can check the invoices, but it was a kit from Carvehal. I think they were the B6's or B8's. The ride as I recall was firm, not hard, but boy, the stance was one that I would get accolades in parking lots as to how sure footed it stood there. If I find the invoice, will let you know.
Just got the car back after clutch kit and Wavetrac install. Almost zero wheel spin in spots I normally intentionally get the back end to break loose�so that�s good. It�ll make a difference weaving through cones. I put the Aasco LWFW in. The shop that rebuilt the motor and my current speed shop both said there should be little concern about harmonics and balance for me. No new noises or clunkiness observed, and it�s been cold.
I�m happy with the new normal. I notice the clutch throw is less and the engagement point is sooner. Heel/toe is much easier, like by 100%, because rev match and engagement time is compressed. I have some proper racy NVH with revvy engine, decent exhaust and Numeric.
Holy crap, taking the car to a good shop is freaking $$$! I did get two nice T-shirts. Whee! It is cool to have an airport car that holds it�s own on the track. So money well, if reluctantly, spent.
Excited to get my car from Goldcrest after a few big mods
* 997 power seat install that I had custom pepita fabric upholstery done by Sweidit and Artnd
* New oem shifter cables
* New FVD exhaust
few Teaser pics but will post photos of seats when I pick up car
I added a video of the exhaust sound in here also
Was hoping to get the suspension finished up and drive the car this weekend but that�s not going to happen.
I decided to try Gert�s recommendation of using a hammer to get the spring perches over the double painted strut on the passenger side to save some time from sanding and repainting. Welp, I broke the spring perch�luckily found one on eBay and it�ll be here Tuesday.
While waiting, I decided to set the damping on the 3 other shocks. Guess that�s another thing I should�ve checked on these brand new parts because the adjuster on one of the rears won�t budge. Gert is sending another, which is awesome of him to do, but now I have to take it back out of the car. Must be a super soft metal because the pliers I used left some marks.
At the end of the day, as much as I wanted this setup to work, I don�t think I can honestly recommend it to anybody. It�s just been too much of a pain.
Changed PTX in my transmission and front differential. Also installed Function First solid cable ends on my stock cables. Easy, one hour job on the cable ends. May have taken longer to gather the tools and put them away than it did to install the cable ends : )
I am not familiar with the benefits of new cable ends. The old ones wear out or are they just substandard to begin with? Afterwards, how does the function improve? Thanks.
Here is the discussion that got me going. I haven�t driven the car yet so, no direct feedback from me just yet.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-review-2.html
Thanks for the info.
I just put the FF bearings into a 997 shifter (for my 2003 C4S) and replaced my shifter with it, but decided to wait to do the downstream cable ends.
(thanks for confirming it is an easy job)
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to drive it enough to determine.
I have had a few shifts that were a bit difficult to get into third
The transmission was in neutral and I used a loaned green centering block during the swap.
But maybe I did something wrong...
When I get chance, I might put the original shifter back in, pay more attention to the shifting feel, and then put the modified one back in to compare.
The hardest part is getting the center console out.
Does anyone have a used centering block that they will sell?
(follow up: someone is sending me one. Thank you!)
Thanks,
Paul
Here is the Rennlist thread that I used to make my decision (thanks to all that contributed)
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...shifter-4.html
Don't know why you're having so much trouble with your kit from Gert but my install went smoothly. I used the supplied plastic adjuster with no issues either.
Part of it, the most difficult part, is that Koni screwed up and painted these yellow, then added an extra layer of black paint on. Tha has resulted in mine being .010� too thick in diameter to the upper spring perch and the portion where it slides into the wheel hub.
Gert pointed out he has noticed this with his most recent batch from Koni. Apparently his tolerance issues haven�t been as bad as mine though.
As for the adjuster being stuck, I just chalk that up to a QC miss at Koni. Neither of these issues are fault of Gert or Carnewal and Gert already got a replacement in the mail for me.
[QUOTE=AeroF16;20504959Neither of these issues are fault of Gert or Carnewal and Gert already got a replacement in the mail for me.[/QUOTE]
Have you been trading directly with Carnewal in Belgium and thus dealing with international shipping on the multiple shipments? Yikes in terms of time and money.
Not sure what you mean �trading� but yes, I bought the kit directly from Carnewal. I haven�t had to cover shipping on multiple shipments. Gert�s price in the kit includes shipping to the US and was still a good deal, he is also shipping the extra rear shock to me at no cost to me.
It only took like 5 days to get it after Gert shipped. 2ish days to get to California, then maybe a day or two there at customs, then it was on its way to my place. Really not bad at all.
I haven�t seen any extra bill for tariffs or anything. Gert mentioned FedEx would figure that out and bill me - it is part of my calculation for cost though and total this kit wasn�t going to be cheaper anywhere else I was looking.
Doubtful this would have been any quicker if I worked with anyone in the US. Maybe I would have received the initial shipment a few days quicker but doubtful anyone would have addressed the issue with the stuck adjuster as quick and painless as Gert did.
To be clear, I would 100% buy from Carnewal again in the future. Both the double painted shocks/struts are Konis fault - which as I understand should not normally be the case for the black struts they send Carnewal, as well as the strut with the stuck adjuster.
My assessment is that the Konis are not built nearly as well as the Bilsteins are that came off my car but that might not be apples to apples because mine are 23 years old. Would be interesting to see but I assume the newer Bilsteins are better quality than the Konis.
I found out why my ABS/PSM and Brake Wear lights were still on after fixing the connector on the front left corner....it's because the rear left also said its goodbye
This will inevitably happen on the two right corners and the Porsche tax is a bit silly here. The cost for 4 of these connectors with some wire is almost $700. I'm in the process of fixing this for less than $50 via some insulated wire, heat shrink and deutsch connectors. They're water resistant and will do the trick here.
After doing about 12-15 hours with tax stuff, always a PITA, I did the job. There is a "Geezer Relief" tax system here that has a simple form. Unfortunately, it requires a Fed number for income, which requires a Fed 2.5 hour multiple forms to fill out to finally get that number. Then add up medical stuff and mileages, multiple this and that, and finally done. Both are a total PITA, but worth a lot of $$$ to reduce house tax. Unfortunately also discovered SS retirement is also taxable, so another cost, but not much. I hate this project every year.
So, what to do? How about restore the yellow headlights on C4S? Me in the garage, C4S, various tiny sandpaper deals, water, "official lubricant", water-sponge bucket, gloves and electric drill thingy. It took about 2 hours to do the driver side so it didn't look like a yellow light bulb.
The process is slow, wet sand 800, 2000, 3000, 5000 grit wash off and dry, and it look cloudy. Polish with some Mother's kit stuff and it turns out real. At that step you can see where you need to repeat the process for parts not-so-great, and continue. Slow but sure, just do it.
The photos don't show the amount of "yellow" in beginning, but the result is amazing! It actually looks "silver-chrome" under the plastic surface and really great!. I did both sides and results look like new(er) or maybe new headlights. The light output and direction in garage is very noticeably improved. A lot of DIY elbow grease and effort, but worth the result. I am leery about doing a final "spray coat" of Maguire's Headlight Sealant paint, dunno. Comments to do it?
Anyway, clear and shiny headlights make the C4S look great, nearly new for a 22 year old car. A cosmetic endeavor, but worth the effort. I have thought about the "A-products" for replacement but wanted to try this at a lower cost. Maybe I have to do this every other year or something, NBD. I consider the HID replacements from "A-products" and may try that. In the meantime, probably get the "A-products" LED lights for the back tail lights. ( All the white speckles on hood-fenders are from the buffing compound it washes off_)
Just another thing to cross off the "To Do" list. Looming is Slakker 4.1L rebuild. Fix engine before anything breaks, give it more muscle, and don't worry about it.
YMMV
First photo, Driver side done, Psgr side original. 2nd photo, both sides done.
Thanks for advice and comment. Maybe, but when I found out that height adjustment was "backwards" from published stuff, I decided to just leave it alone. Too many wires and connectors to break or whatever. Let "sleeping dogs lie". so to speak.
YMMV
Yeah, after reading about all the people who have dealt with the disintegrating headlight wires, I would be hesitant to take a chance. Bummer considering how the lights were designed to come out so quickly. We will probably never own another car with that ability.
For reference, Gert sent me a new shock for the rear yesterday to replace the one that has the stuck adjuster - FedEx says it�ll be at my house Friday. Pretty quick.
Putting it all back together. Suspension is in, still cleaning a bit, need to get the brakes back together.
New rear shock will be here Friday. All have everything else buttoned up by then.
A little before and after - $10 of paint and a little elbow grease really made a difference.
Question about your install and experience with the RoW springs:
Obviously they are shorter but, when the suspension is in full droop, there is zero preload on the springs. The fronts are the worst, I can literally just grab them and move them around. The strut mount bearing also comes unseated from the mount and the front has about 20mm of play, which is equivalent to the shorter spring delta.
Seems weird having them this loose - like everytime I raise the car off the ground I�m going to have to check and make sure they are seated correctly in the spring perch as I lower it.
Is that actually an issue or am I making this up in my head? Do the springs and bearing naturally seat into their proper position when the car is lowered back to the ground?
I know your question wasn't directed at me but I can share my own experience with M030 RoW springs on my '99 C2. The only difference with me is that I went with the Porsche 'kit' (part# 000.044.500.07) and it came with sways, springs and Porsche/Bilstein dampers rather than Konis. In my case, there
is
preload and there is no looseness in the assembly when the car is raised. I've never had the symptoms of the looseness you describe except for defective springs from Eibach on an old BMW I had. Somehow I don't think bad springs are related to your issue though.
AC never worked correctly. The previous owner had the compressor changed, but to no avail. Finally, after 3 years of driving with both windows down in the summer, I brought it to the only truly independent Porsche shop on Oahu. Turns out the wiring harness connector wasn't seated all the way. They cleaned the connector, leak checked the system, and added the correct amount of freon/oil. I pick it up tomorrow.
The difference must be the shocks/struts. The Konis are geometrically the same as the B4s best I can tell, meaning the spring perch is mounted in the same spot in the strut and the shaft length is the same.
Makes sense now that I think about it - the distance between the spring perch and the strut mount needs to be shorter to accommodate shorter springs in order to have some preload in full droop.
Welp, I�m just going send it and see what happens. I would hope Carnewal wouldn�t sell a kit like this that would be problematic.
Put it (mostly) back together, enough to drive it.
First impressions are the Konis on full soft seem a little �bouncy� compared to my stock suspension. I�m excited to adjust the damping when I get the new rear shock in this weekend.
Definitely an improvement over the old shocks though. Still not quiet like my BMWs but it drives like a sports car and, most importantly, doesn�t crash over the cracks in the road and what not like my old suspension did.
Ride height I guess needs time to settle - it�s sitting right about where it was before I put the RoW kit in. We�ll see how it settles over time. When measured from the ground to the center of the fender arch, 3 out of 4 corners measure exactly at 26 3/16� while the other corner is at 26 1/16�.
Does not feel as tight and planted through turns as the stock suspension did but I�m chalking that up to the shocks being full soft right now.
You should think about starting a separate thread for this. It might be easier to follow and to refer back to in the future.
I have a targa so we are not talking apples/apples, exactly. Still when I took my first drive with Koni yellows and RoW M030 springs the difference in control and suppleness was dramatic compared to my 100K mile original, stock US height suspension. Any bounciness I felt was in the old stuff! The new shocks were very controlled even at the soft setting. I did turn them up but not because of a lack of control.
EDIT: In terms of ride height I lost about 1/2" in front and not quite that much in the back. It got rid of the terrible "offroad" front end of the stock US ride height and gave the car a nice mild rake. But I still have good ground clearance. I did not see a lot of difference over time. I suspect any "settling" is more likely to be rubber bits compressing and should not be much of a change.
Put the new reg sticker on.
By coincidence, it was 9 years ago to this exact date that I brought the 996 home. It's hard to believe but aside from an alignment after my suspension refresh, its never been in a shop for anything the entire 9 years.
This is the very first pic I ever took of it as the new owner.
2 days (30ish miles) of driving and my front is right at 5/8� lower than after initial install. Rears are about 1/8� lower.
I suspect the comparison between yours and mine is that I already had the US sport suspension standard on my C4S. When compressing the rear shocks by hand, my OEM rears were significantly stiffer than the Konis out of the box. Fronts were about equal.
Got the new rear replacement shock from Carnewal today, going in tomorrow.
Swapped out the clears for some ambers. There was also an attempt to remove the leaves from the radiator duct, but I don�t think he managed to get a single leaf out.
Just got the car back from Goldcrest, among doing things such as installing FVD exhaust and new shifter cables I also had a few cosmetic things installed
- Purchased 997 14-way seats and worked with ArtnD to have custom pepita material put in
- Custom leather wrap to original steering wheel. I previously replaced with DCT T96 because I thought OEM wheel was too thin but I didn�t love DCT either as it was too thick. Decided to do something custom and got thicker padding and better leather on the OEM wheel
- new oem all weather floor mats, much nicer than the 20+ year old carpet
-I may have not posted this pic before but here is my leather wrapped dash horse shoe from ArtnD
- the shifter in here was a replacement of the cheaper 996 oem shifter with an oem 996 carbon fiber shifter
I love how the seats play off against the carbon fiber map door pockets I ordered from Rennline
my next interior mod will be installing a painted dash. Debating what will look better - black / carbon fiber / or painted to match seal gray exterior. Just thinking thru dynamic of what looks best with the seats and black interior
Replaced the driver rear shock with the new one Carnewal sent. Set all the shocks to mid range damping, pretty happy with it there.
Next thing to tackle is a vibration through the chassis around 50+ mph. It�s minor but I want this car to drive perfect. It�s not the wheels, I�ll have to investigate more.
Possibly the rubber isolator between the driveshaft and trans, I took a peek at that when I first got the car and it showed a bunch of wear. In the BMW world it�s a common issue.
yeah it�s great, had Wolfpen in ATL order and install for me. It�s easy enough to DIY but they had my car for a very large job when I first bought it to sort it out with IMS, RMS, AOS etc so just had them do it.
I recommend hiding the USB transponder in glovebox for a cleaner look
How do you like the interface? Is it quick and easy like a modern car or slow and clunky?
My 996 came with a knock off version of the PCCM+ and it�s nice because it�s wireless but the interface and consistency of the software leaves a bit to be desired.
that wrapped horseshoe is beautiful.
I bought a new leather one but would love to do this with my old one and add the read stitching I have on the dash, shifter, etc.
any details on the shop you used and cost?
my apologies if already answered.
seats look great also!
thx
Replaced the plugs and coils. In the past, I took the car to the shop for this. However, I got a big #6 misfire pulling up to my house. Turns out the #5 and #6 coils did have fine horizontal fissures. These were original-style 996 coils.
From the diy vids it appears the 996.1 coils are on a diagonal. I know why the �this is easy-peasy� diy videos are on .1�s. The .2 vertical coil wire connection is a challenging obstacle. #1 and #4 coils are almost impossible to Tetris out and (more difficult) back in if you have big hands. Then there�s the issue of getting the darn coil wires off/on. Oh, and the those #1/#4 plugs are a beeyatch to thread in properly. Bank 2 took me over 3 hours. I spent a good 2 hours spinning out. Bank 1 only took a bit over an hour. So learning did occur. I removed the wheels and did the job on jack stands, on my back, in the driveway.
Lessons:
- Personally rate the difficulty of the job for a first time, out of 5, a
. A visit to the dental hobby shop for a root canal started seeming like more fun. If you�ve done this task before, it�s a
1/2. No matter what, the #1 coil and plug are devilishly hard to get to.
- Eye protection and watch your nugget! If you�re on your back, there�s all sorts of stuff to bang and scrape against: rotors, control arms, etc.
- My opinion is there�s no benefit to removing bumper cover or exhaust for access. The muffler brackets are the obstacles.
- The FCP video is pretty helpful, my fine people. The tip on the order to put coils back in is a good one. The tool list is good.
- Take a moment and get a pic of how you position the 1, 2, 4 and 5 coils to remove, so you can reverse for install.
- I found an 8mm ratchet wrench works perfectly for E10 bolts on the updated coils. This will keep a few $ out of the swear jar!
- Resist the tendency to over torque the plugs (22 lb/ft). After one or two you can basically feel the washer give. You may not be able to get a torque wrench to all the plugs.
- A broad flat head screwdriver with a 5�+ shank and hose pliers for the coil wires. Both are used to push the rubber cover up. The blade will pop the clip and allow you to lever the wire up off the coil. Hose pliers allowed me to pull down and reseat the coil wire between the muffler brackets. I used the blade to align the connector as I pulled the wire down onto the coil with the pliers. That �click� is music, �cuz you�re blind.
7� hose pliers were crucial.
- I didn�t need to put spacers in for heat shields. If you want to use a 5mm metal spacer, you can repurpose the old 5mm hex head coil bolts. They are the same thread pitch as the OE shield bolts. Good luck getting the rear most shield bolts in with a spacer! My thought was super glue the spacers to the shields on the rearmost holes and use a longer hex head bolt if you can�t get enough access for an Allen tool. The fronts are pretty simple to thread.
My hope is these notes reduce the angst by at least one
for a newbie.
Today was a day to take on the challenge with 7 broken exhaust manifold bolts...
Drilled all 7 broken exhaust manifold bolts out without damaging the threads on the heads. Still cleaned those with M8 tap just in case, but there was pretty much nothing to clean.
Not a plasant job, but now I know how it's done
Each bolt took approx 30 min to sort out - helped probably since the engine is out and bolted in the engine stand -> easy to rotate as needed to.
Finally the engine starts to be ready go back in to the car.
The disintegrating headlight wires are INSIDE the headlight,
Pulling the headlights is REAL easy (fixing the wires is not).
I have a video somewhere, maybe now is the time to post it...
I do remember #1 being difficult, but I had to pull the bumper cover, pax muffler and drop the engine about 4" to get to that #4 coil and plug...
You Tube
After a little over 4 liters of PTX for the front differential and transmission, and a new set of Function First Solid Cable Ends I�m happy to report�everything works. I�m not the best judge of performance �upgrades� but, after 120 miles, the drivetrain felt smooth. I can�t point to a noticeable increase in performance, smoothness, etc., everything just worked. Don�t know if the FF Cable Ends are worth ~$150 but, they replaced 20+ year old parts and the new ones will outlast the car : )
I just had a rear Sport Design wheel restored cosmetically from a guy in Pennsylvania, rim lip was a mess with chips, scratches and cuts, well worth the $200 to get it back to great street condition.
Thinking about doing the other rear especially as these factory BBS optional wheels are a great look on a 996 and gaining value in our 996 world 😀👍
Rich
PSA
If you guys ever run into a seized bolt for the rear control arm link try a pry bar before cutting.
I was able to fit a pry bar behind the body panel and through the tunnel where the nut sits for that control arm.
I just pushed up on the opposite end of the pry bar pushing the bolt downward while I used my 1/2 impact to back the bolt out.
I inserted the pry bar through here. If you zoom in you can see the top of the bolt where my flashlight is.
Pry bar inserted
Pry bar on top of bolt
Bolt backed out
Installed new motor mounts. After a lot of research and debating - I ended up going with OEM equivalent from FCP Euro. The brand was VNE. I was shocked at how easy this entire process was, and what a difference it made. I truly wish I would have done this sooner. My shifting improved, my engine seems happier and my car overall seems less clunky. Very happy overall with everything. My old motor mounts I believe were original to the car and were so degraded they were totally sagging and falling apart. See the photo comparison
.
It's possible the loss of compliance in the heavily sagged OEM mounts were causing the knock sensor to be engaged, reducing engine power with the old mounts in place. This reportedly happens with very stiff "sport"mounts, but may well be the case with your heavily stretched mounts. Most of the new/old OEM mount comparisons show pretty significant differences, but yours looks to be even a bit more than typical. Engine mount replacement is one of the easiest and most satisfying maintenance items on the 996.
What happens to all of that FAT when centrifugal force kicks in? Perhaps a quick "Loose Weight Now!" reduction?
Not to mention, seems to be 1 shy for a lug bolt for 996 application. What are these going on? 914, ATV, Grass Cutting Machine, a wheelchair?
YMMV
Altleast 20%!
ive never seen these, neat. There are popular 4x100 �teddy bear� wheels that are also asymmetric. They do balance fine. I don�t think Michelin would allow a branded product with no hope of successful function.
The teddy bears weren�t light but not as bad as expected either. There may be heavier OEM wheels than these tbh.
Garage built 2.5 x 12 megaphones into a formula z pipe with 9" stainless bros mufflers. Its tight fit. A little loud but above 4000 it smooths out and make you want to spin it to 7000. Mainly a track car now so its ok being loud.
Took mine to Chuckwalla last weekend. Did a number on the tires, but it was still a good weekend.
Robert Glaze (@cvr_lorax) of Caliphotography took the picture - he's an Amazing photographer!
Ok people, go ahead and roll your eyes but my two car parking space is not huge and I am tired of worrying about my open door swinging open wide enough while I am working on my car to the point the door rubs against a wall or the other vehicle. I have already had a very small one boo boo. At least I used black rub strips instead of chrome.
Yes, if you all give me enough s&#*, chrome curb feelers could be next...
Got mine inside a 100 miles till it hits the 250,000 officially by the odometer. In reality due to running a 19� wheel and 26.1� diameter tire for over 100K of that it probably passed 250K quite some time ago
Hoping that mine will make it that far. Has decent service history up to my ownership, has excellent service history under my ownership haha. 3 UOA from Speediagonstix look good so far!
Hit this two nights ago�
Sure thing. 1979 SC in Casablanca Beige Metallic. According to the Rennbow database, it’s a pretty rare color (four cans). It was definitely enthusiast owned. Momo Prototipo steering wheel, Wevo shifter, lowered to ROW height, turbo arms, upgraded bushings, and a few other bits. Dark brown leather is about the color of espresso and is in pretty good shape with the exception of the parcel shelf, which is toast.
The car is now at “Flat 6 Specialist, INC. in Montclair, CA (I bought the car in LA) for an engine out “major service” to include reseal, valve adjustment, plugs, wires, distributor cap, all fluids, etc. I had a full Fabspeed catted system shipped out there for install as well so I can pass emissions here in Colorado. I’ll fly out in a few weeks and road trip home.
It definitely has a bunch of projects waiting for me. The gauges need some rehab (all are functional, but they need cosmetics), and the paint on the bonnet and deck lid is in terrible condition, but I have plans for that as part of the outlaw build.
I will still be well within my budget even after the engine work and exhaust is done. I got the car for $44k, which is pretty good for an SC with a solid engine, even with the tatty cosmetics. The rarity of the color is a bonus to me.
The UOA are good things to help track internal health. Mine still look good these days. No signs of anny scoring and cam deviations are effectively zero (-0.11 & 0.0) still somehow. Only reason Lead was high in the 2025 change is because I blended about 5 gallons of 110 octane in on a drive home through WV in that cycle.
First time doing this since 2001. Aircond not cold at all even after refill. Detected no airflow from passenger side under bumper. Did the AC relays swap, and jumping 87 & 30 pins test. Can hear motor and clunking noise on passenger side. So figure it�s time to pull bumper and inspect it. Was not surprised to see all the crud. Have seen a lot worst on YouTube videos.
Took a bit of effort to pull the metal frame off the radiator to access the fan. Somehow my frame is different from other ones on YouTube.
Even before I took fan out, I could reach in and try to spin fan by hand, only to discover it�s just flopping around in the cage. Now that I have it out, I don�t see anything that could hold the fan in place to the spindle. I wonder if the spindle snapped or what. Does anyone know how they�re supposed to be attached together?
I suspect the motor and resistor are still good and it�s just a detached fan blade.
The oil stains on your condensers suggest an air conditioning oil leak; it's time to replace them, as well as your receiver drier, which is probably nearing the end of its life. Is your compressor overheating? Check the condition of the compressor clutch pulley or the pressure switch.
How do you tell there�s oil leak? By the dark colors on the condensers? When you say time to replace them do you mean the condensers?
Have no idea about compressor. Have to look it up. Seems like a very expensive part.
How do I tell if the compressor is overheating? By touching?
I did not realize race gas had lead in it. It makes sense to get that octane, but it never occurred to me. We almost put race fuel in an Alfa Giulia at NJMP a couple weeks ago -- only reason we didn't is there was no power at the gas station that day for some reason. I'm guessing the catalytic converter would have been toast, or at least damaged, had we run that gas.
Yes, the dark spots. And yes, they'll need replacing, along with the desiccant bottle.
Translation issue: Does the compressor engage when you press the AC button? No? Check the condition of the compressor pulley. Nothing? Probably the pressure switch. All this with a recent recharge, so there's refrigerant in the system.
Ok, I�ll give the compress or a test when I have things back together.
Can you explain why my fan blade cap is detached from the motor hub like that? Did a shaft break? There�s no way to fix it right?
There�s a truck stop on US35 that has it on the same pump (separate nozzle) as unleaded gas. I wasn�t too concerned because the O2 sensors were already aging out and due to be replaced, and I have a cat less Fabspeed x-pipe. It definitely put a little extra pep in its step for that tank.
Cfs now makes a condensor coil for our cars and its $95. I just put one in my car and it fits fine. That fan is broken....toss it in the trash amd get lne off ebay. I may even have one with a damaged shroud it u want to coble something together.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...enser-csf-8381
I changed the ignition interlock mechanism. Looks like a space ray gun. The old one was so stiff and hard to turn that I sometimes feared that the key would break off. Plus the "clink" indicating that the interlock had moved was iffy and often needed a lot of coaxing to operate. It's an easy part to replace -- once the left half of the dash is disassembled.
Been searching for a rattle noise and also a very slight clunking sound. Ripped my dash apart looking for it but haven�t found anything.
Popped my hood today and found that my battery is 100% unsecured. Ha wtf?
I�ve got it secured vertically and from sliding towards the passenger side for now as a temp fix, but gotta take care of this.
My volt meter in the car drops to 10.5ish during start, so I�m going to test the battery first. If it�s bad, I�ll replace it with an OEM style setup. If it�s good, I�ll figure out a better way to secure this. There was a bolt the brass holder I removed but everything was setup backwards, nothing was holding anything down haha. Maybe that�s the clunk I�ve been looking for and who knows, maybe that�s brass looking metal piece is the rattle I�ve been hearing.
Pic I took during investigation tonight. Ignore the cup, not like there�s Bourbon in there or anything�Also ignore the washer fluid cap - that�s how I received the car and just keep forgetting to order a new one.
Fitted new convertible top header rail locating lugs. The originals had lost their rubber tips and the top was rattling and banging, exacerbated by the recent full suspension rebuild with B6 shocks and H&R lowered sports springs. Now it’s tight as a drum! A quick, easy fix for an irritating problem.
We are in the very southwest corner, about 3 miles from Oregon. The wing is the Aerokit wing from Porsche. I found an original one and payed dearly for it. I also have the Aerokit front lip, but it's a knock off. Oh ya, my wife gave me the plates in 2018.
They are item 8 in the diagram below but are sided left and right. They are sometimes called �centring journals�. They are attached by two torx bolts to the front rail of the convertible top and have a tongue which engages in a recess on each side in the back of the windscreen header rail when the top is raised and locked in position. The tongue has a rubber cap which had been lost from both the left and right hand sides in my case, allowing the metal tongues to rattle around in the metal recesses, hence the loud noises. This diagram appears to show the rubber cap as a separate item, but my understanding is that there was a mod and now they are only available as a complete unit, including the cap, which is bonded to the aluminum component. The new parts, in my case, transformed my 911 from being a rattly, noisy beast to a quiet and refined machine. I think the bangs and rattles reverberated around the car making it seem as though there were multiple sources of noise. Not any more. Well worth it.
I replaced the sunvisor mirror cover and now have working lights and the new cover. Set of 2 mirrors w/covers off Amazon for like $15 IIRC. Only needed 1 cover.
I wish replacing the mirrors on my Targa were so easy. The mirror and light are totally different. I only needed the cover over the light, but could not find it. So, decided to buy the entire sunvisor. Not much easier. I searched and searched for them and was able to buy a pair just in case. Couple of hundred bucks just to buy the light cover/lens.
Hi All, like many ignored 996s for years, until I was offered a 1999 Gen 1 Aerokit car - a great looking car these days imo
I know there are lots of analogue type comments out there, but it really is great to drive on the smaller roads being so small and light.
Anyhow, I decided to upgrade it and got a bit carried away
Front big brake conversion / Panamera Turbo discs / Pagid Sport pads / Gulf blue & orange callipers - big improvement!
OZ wheels
GT3 Geometry
Stainless manifolds / Switchable exhaust / Big bore X-pipe
FVD Tune
RSS engine mounts
Numeric short shifter
Momo steering wheel
Bluapunkt head unit / JBL speakers
Some graphics
Goes / stops & sounds fab
Here are a few before / after shots.
Did not have time to wash the outside. That is tomorrow’s job, along with removing dog hair from the carpets.Today, Colgate, baking soda, and a toothbrush to the headlights. Should have taken a before pic. Look pretty good for 10 minutes each. Wish my teeth looked as good.
Yesterday it was 55 and sunny so I took the car out of storage. I checked the usual places for mice and found one or more had nested in my cabin air filter. No damage or chewing apparent and the car runs fine. I let the storage air out of the tyres and went for a drive, and ran some errands, so nice to be back in my little car. I had 3! Compliments on the girl, even with the winter storage smeg all over her.
Picked up a new filter at Napa. Here's a pic of it sitting today in the rain, the weather has changed. Is it just me or does the somber lighting really make the pink undertones apparent in Meridian Metallic? Not sure what's up with the lipstick lol. I Love this rare color. Tho most will look at it and say silver or champagne. Unless it's beside a silver car 😎
Peace and good wishes to you all my brothers. Retirement is amazing, I've never been so happy.
2001 coupe #meridianmetallic #savethemanuals
As a 996 color fan I always liked Meridian as on this turbo but if I could carry your lighting around with the car I would be a bigger fan love the pink hue! 👍
Rich
Hi Bradley. The part you need is 996-573-711-00. It�s pretty cheap. You may want to replace them all now. 28 years of heat cycles makes their retaining clips about as resilient as uncooked spaghetti.
Enjoying all your posts, btw. I�ll be very happy if I can someday get my 7/98 build Ocean Blue/Savannah cab half as nice as yours.
Thank you so much for this Billy and appreciate the kind words 😃 That's exactly the part. Definitely going to replace them all.
Please share some photos of your cab, 3AZ/Savannah is a rare one.
Bradley
Installed the engine and transmission back to the car (2001 996 C2).
If all goes well and I have time, next weekend should be the time to start the engine after a bit larger service - including VarioCam actuator seals, cam chains and chain followers change.
Not today, but last week.....
Living in SE Idaho for 17 years (B4 moving to ID 40+ years P-car ownership, own shop, etc...) I have only seen 12 Porsche cars. One mid 2015s +/- year. 1 boxster, and the rest Cayenes or now Macans. I have never seen an aircooled 356, 911, 914, or the rest of those eras. Forward to these days and I wanted a Pcar again. Good $ price on 997, bad crab wheels, silver, blah. I decided on a 996 C4S. Just go find one and buy it.
Not so fast pilgrim! Of 177000 996s built, there were some $$$$$ GT cars, the 40 AEs, Turbos, some C4Ss, and then the rest 996.1, 996.2. The years 2002 to 2005 P made 17265 Carrera C4Ss. Only 1/2 of those were couples. The rest were cabriolets--not for me. My C4S is one of about 863 C4S coupes. Pretty cool. It took me 3 years to find one on the US SW side of Mississippi. Anything except Black, Silver, or Red. I just wanted a subdued color, not an attention grabber. The C4S itself would garner enough attention. Found one 1100 miles away in SoCal Desert, lived in AZ. It also had to be a Tip. Five knee surgeries dictated that option. What the heck, I don't miss 1/10 of a second faster for a manual. Go drive your manual in bumper-to-bumper 5-10 mph stop/go freeway and see if your knee could take it every day, not for me. Anyway fixing 996 warts and missing maintenance, worry about "slight bore-score" from PPI, a whole bunch of stuff not done etc. No shops near here, 'I am the SHOP". Ready to do H2O pump, UAOS, etc, already did front suspension, crap out, send it elsewhere as a package.
Too much worry, need reliability. Researched, called, many talks with a fellow Brandon Clark at Slakker. Hemmed, hawed, negotiated some parts, maybe fix something else. quotes, re-do quotes, yak again and again, almost a year. My C4S is not broken. It runs fine AFAIK. I worry about oil to 4-6 cyl. Lots of "fun" (Brandon says "Hooligan Driving") here, near unlimited "fun" in NV and so on. I decide to let Slakker "Fix" every wart and problem. I choose 4.1L, cringe at the cost, do it anyway. No pockets in coffins.
I drove the car to OKC. There were some "iffy" incidents, and one real "Near Destruct" incident. Former AuroX and HPDE events + "4S" paid off. At least 2 others in this "incident" did not fare so well. What do you do when a 1-ton(?) hay bail comes off a truck in front of you, maybe 35-40 yards at 75 mph, both lanes full no where to go. Just down the center V-grass slopes and hay parts, take it or leave it. The little red car in front slammed into the hay bail, boy, hay flying everywhere. I didn't want red paint streaks on my C4S so do something different, instantly. The C4S managed and survived. It deserved a cleaning and a rest.
So now it is parked among some fellow Porsches, happy I hope, getting a new heart. The Slakker/Hartech build is (my opinion) superior to P stuff and other options. JMO. Convenient? No. Better? I think so. Besides, look at the company from all over US- Washington State to Maine to Texas to California.
Some photos---
PS- All the hoods are up because all are on battery tender chargers. Just part of the "parking" rules. ...and, mine is the only 996 C4S in the 24 Porsches.
YMMV
Wood trims in a 996 are a special kind of beauty. Love the look as well.
Love this. Ocean Blue w/ the ambers is perfect.
This picture immediately reminds of Disney's The Kid w/ Bruce Willis.
I thought the image consultant character driving a 996 cab was the ultimate male when I was 8 years old and saw it in the Westwood theater in LA.
I always wondered about the clearance with quick jacks. Is the car on the lift or did you need additional adapters to get more height?
Also interested in knowing more about the other jack you have there.
@uscarrera
I think that's a 4s? You can see the pink in it though. I can explain why mine looks so pink, is parked in front of my garage door. Here's the explainer pic
@pilot4fn
wouldn't it be easier to do the items mentioned with the engine out? Just asking, mines a 2001 and will need timing tune someday soon. I have the same lift but you have more room my garage is tiny.
[/QUOTE]
@bmchan
@Ocean Blue
Thank you both.
Cool movie reference, Bradley! So that�s why everyone mistakes me for a young Bruce Willis. 😂 (Not!)
You should be our official 996 ambassador! Between your passion and the sage mechanical advice from folks like
@Porschetech3
and so many others, this forum keeps me coming back every day to learn how to keep my cab looking sharp and running strong
I also like the original "pumpkins" orange. When folks change it to clear (silver looking), they loose contrast and color variation. I don't know what color 996 would look OK with clear, but not many, my opinion. I also like the color on original 996.1 headlights, the same sort of contrast and color change. Another one I think is a mistake is to "black-out" lenses and taillights. Looks bad and not progressive for visual safety.
I'll order the color matched LED taillight kit, don't remember where it is, find it sooner or later.
YMMV
Not sure if anyone else out there gets as excited as I do when I get new fresh rubber parts to replace the old crusted ones. Not sure what it is but it's definitely satisfying for some odd reason.
I've also been slowly and methodically cleaning as my parts have been coming in for a full suspension refresh. I finally got everything needed minus the rear toe links and tie rods. The spindles have definitely given me a hard time with all the rust and grime of 26 years. I want stop and start reassembling the car but I just know I'll be mad at myself later for not thoroughly cleaning every possible nook and crannie while everything is off.
Subframe cleaned up nicely, didn't put up much of a fight.
The spindles on the other hand are really making me work for it. And the front ones are even worse.
You did a great job cleaning it. Did you use power washer, or just hand scrub with brush and soapy water?
Original condenser or replaced?
Any pic of before the clean?
so I bought both of these and no rubber caps. Everywhere i look the caps are discontinued. Damn I guess I will live with the rattle
ETA its quiet without the rubbers
Sorry to hear that. Where did you source them? AFAIK they should be supplied new with the rubber caps integrally moulded onto them. They really do make a huge difference. I think all the joints in my convertible top were creaking and groaning too as it flexed due to the lack of secure location of the header bow of the top due to the lack of the rubber caps.
Be very careful if you scrub - you�ll bend all those little fins very easily. The whole concept of a radiator like this is surface area across the fins - you want to be very careful with them.
Instead of using my pressure washer, I use a weed sprayer filled with water in my garage. Low pressure and doesn�t make a huge mess.
When I had the front bumper off to clean the rads, I noticed some smushed fins on one of the condensers. It probably wasn't affecting performance but I used one these to straighten them. They're called a
fin straightener
or
radiator comb
I think.
Me too. I also have a mini version for tighter spaces.
Found the heater core leaking the other day. Luckily just dried bits of coolant instead of a footwell full of coolant. Thought it was spilled coffee at first because that�s what it smelled like in the car.
Ordered a new part from FCP Euro with new seals and clamps. Hoses looked good so I didn�t replace them but I did replace the clamps just for the hell of it. Verified previous owners claim of fixing the blend door foam issue while I was in there.
Put it back together and then burped the cooling system for 10 minutes or so, all is good.
Thanks!
2003 C4S, 6spd, original engine & IMS & trans. Records since new but no signs the engine has ever been opened up. Recent used oil analysis are still great. Bought with 105K a lil over ten years ago, so I�m at 145K in seat and wrenching time. Runs fantastic!
More pics of that duck bill? Where�d you find it and how�d you make it work?
As much as I love my C4S rear I feel it could really benefit from a very subtle spoiler.
I completely agree with your sentiment. Unfortunately, that ducktail I had to make "from scratch". As I'm sure you probably know, there are very few good options for a C4S ducktail in the US. The spoiler is one of those eBay inserts that is supposed to just replace the pop-up piece, but the fit and finish was horrible so I chopped it up and made what I couldn't find without ordering one from Europe. Bought a spare stock C4S decklid to start with so the final fit turned out great like it came from the factory. I had a build thread on it last year I linked below, hopefully someone else finds the inspiration to have what they want for their own cars too.The rear feels more planted at higher speeds now with it so it�s definitely not just for looks.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l-project.html
I have a 2003 C4S, and learned you cannot just replace the decklid.
(I considered a TT spoiler)
Not only does no other 996 variant have the heckblende (the red reflector), but the decklid is a different size.
There are many posts where someone tried to put on a different decklid, but it didn't work.
I removed the decklid moveable spoiler and put in a fixed TechArt wing.
I had to do a simple change to the decklid wiring harness (to trick the computer into thinking the moveable spoiler was always up, which doesn't cause a fault light),
and remove the moveable parts.
It is do-able, if you find a "drop in" spoiler (into the original spoiler hole) that you like.
Paul
I installed a new (reconditioned) steering wheel from a fantastic seller off eBay (grigul design) as well as custom leather horseshoe from Brian at ArtnD Vehicle studio. These were the final touches after I did a dashboard and door panel swap last May to take my Targa from partial to full leather. I'm really happy with the results.
If you're referring to the custom horseshoe, here's a link to the order page with a number of pics.
Porsche 996.2 Custom Horseshoe (Upper Console) � ArtnD Vehicle Studio
Otherwise, here's a zoomed in shot - hope it works for you. Thx.
Cool! That�s interesting to find out since I picked one of those same wheels earlier this year to just restore and put on the shelf incase the car goes back to stock. I just thought it was a really nice recover job by someone that�s better than I am.
It is a 996.1 C4, so it is a narrow body car. The previous owner had the fenders rolled and was running 265/35R18 tires to get the 11� wheels to fit without rubbing. I just wanted to put the car back on the correct size wheels and tires.
Looking forward to summer, I recharged the A/C. 160 PSI on the high side isn't too high, but the outside air temp was about 65 degrees. Cold air is coming out of the vents, so I'm happy. I may actually try to do the blend door repair in the next few weeks to get the most benefit out of the rejuvenated A/C!
Took the car (2001 with 5-chain 3.4 engine and 6-speed) for a first test drive after putting engine and transmission back to the car and starting it on last Saturday.
Todays test drive took 162km on very nice flowing two-lane country roads and including approx 10km of freeways.
All went well and car feels fantastic with new control arms and all (4) tierods while engine is very responsive with all new seals in the VarioCam actuators, VarioCamchains and -chainpads.
As I arrived to my garage after the drive, I checked with Durametric 'hows the car feeling'. No issues nor faults there.
- Cam Deviation figures on 2025-10-22 was -9,08 (first image)
- Cam Deviation figures today 2026-04-29 was -0,81 (second image)
Looks like the maintenance went well. I took my time and checked / finetuned the cam timing on both banks 3 times before moving on other items to complete on the engine.
Plan is to have several track days and autocrossa events this summer - possibly includuing Spa and Nurburgring trips.
After a six week wait for Fisters to arrive I had them installed within an hour of UPS dropping them off. So much better than the horrendous muffler delete. Very happy with my decision, all the rave reviews did not disappoint. Met my son during test ride at a 4 way stop on his way home and he caught a little sound clip.
Do we think the Fister exhaust is worth it assuming you don�t already have a set of stock mufflers? For $1600-1800 (tax, shipping, purchase fee), you can get in to other options. I want to change up the exhaust on my car, but I don�t have a set of stock boxes, and boxes from Fister are $800.
I was in the same situation as you, muffler delete when I bought the car, no stock mufflers. After much debate and research and reading differing opinions about different exhausts in the sub $2k price range, all with some good and bad reviews, with the exception of fister which you are hard pressed to find any unhappy customers. I decided to bite the bullet and order fisters knowing I would either have to pay the no return core charge or try to find a set of stocks to send back. I got lucky and was able to track down the previous owner about a couple questions I had and it turned out he still had the mufflers and he offered them to me. Bottom line I think even at full no core exchange price you are hard pressed to get a better exhaust for the same money, if you can find a set on marketplace or similar to exchange even better, but it wasn�t a deal breaker for me.
The problem is you can�t get a set of used boxes and ship them to Cali for much under $800 anyway. Then what happens if the cores aren�t accepted? Big crapshoot.
The only other option I think I would go for would be the Fabspeed Maxflo.
I concede that finding a set for a core exchange at a price that makes sense is not easy. One thing I wasn�t aware of until after the fact is that Fister includes a return UPS shipping label so that helps the math a little bit. Good luck with your decision, it consumed me for weeks but I�m happy with the outcome.
Several years ago, while racing with BMW CCA Club Racing at Sebring, we were inundated with love bugs. The best thing I found to ease removal was a bucket of water and terrycloth towels. Soak the towels in water, cover the bug splatter to let the carcasses soften, then gently wipe them away. Rinse the cloth in another bucket, and do more.
-Tom
1997 BMW M3 #627 IP
2003 C2 Aero
The bug splatter looks kind of cool, giving off a two-tone paint job look.
Your radiators & ac condensers are probably coated with their guts, too. I'd want to clean those out.
Drove the snot out of it with a group of Aircooled friends out of the Tapoco lodge. On the way home I hit the back of the Dragon which is a great road, much less traffic and longer. The pavement is not as good, but was very fun.
--Aaron
Got to drive the SWB pink car for a bit- what a ride.
aircooled cars are great
met this guy hanging out at Tapoco, he was there for the show in Knox.
I just purchased some extra mufflers that were in good condition. Trying to see if I should send them to Fister or just have a local exhaust shop do a Fister or Gundo style mod to them.
Does Fister do any internal muffler changes or is it just the addition of the connecting pipe?
Just the connecting pipe, thats why you can have your local muffler shop save you a whole lot of $$$ and just have them do the cross over pipe. You don't see it so who cares what it looks like. Paint them black once you get them back and boom your done!
Don�t know if this would work for you, but would be a good option for someone who doesn�t have a set for core exchange.
https://www.facebook.com/share/18LeUenFJ1/
Freeways are pretty well looked after, so if there is a speedlimit of 120 km/h, I do not need to worry that there would be a pothole etc that would damage my car.
Then those two lane country roads... maybe 75% are very nicely looked after, while some have cracks / potholes to be aware of. These two lane roads are my favorites, since most of those aree not striaght, but nicely flowing twisties. Driving a new to me country road, I always take the first drive there with extra caution to make sure I do not harm the car nor find a 'behind bend small intersection' where somebody is approaching the road I'm driving.
In short, over all we have good roads, while not all of them are such...
That's very smart of you to scout the roads beforehand. I'm glad to hear the majority of your twisty roads are maintained well. It must be very enjoyable to blast a 911 over them.
I got this 2002 C2 Cabriolet (59k miles) in early March. Have spent the past two months doing some much needed maintenance to get it running smoothly. I will be adding tint as it gets pretty hot out here in Oklahoma.
This is my first Porsche (first sports car really) and I’m looking forward to enjoying it. There’s more things I’d like to do but I’m going to wait a bit and let my wallet recover a bit lol.
Recent maintenance done:
-cleaned out the radiators
-oil change
-engine/cabin air filter
-engine mounts
-transmission mount
-spark plus and ignition coils
-shock/strut refresh (Bilstein B6)
-Continental Extreme Contact Sport 02 tires
I did most of the this myself with the exception of tires and alignment. So far I’m happy with it, but I’m not going to lie, with issues I hear Porsches have, I’m kind of just waiting for the engine to crap out on me at some point lol.
It's had the IMS and the RMS done, so I’m hoping that won’t cause any issues.
I kept waiting for my 2000 to grenade (for no valid reason). Sold it in January. I love this site but...Don't spend too much time here. People come here to resolve problems and the site is great for that but you come away thinking you're next!
For sure...Luckily I do have a good local shop that has been working on nothing but Porsche since the 70's and they did an inspection on it. They recommended the maintenance that I ended up doing myself and then I took it to them for tires and alignment. Overall they told me it was in good shape and to just enjoy the car.
Fist time ever I did today a string alignment to my 996 (or any car).
I have done alignment approximately 25 times by using professional shop computer alignment system, but that is no longer in my use -> so string alignment it is from now on.
Today it took a while as I was learning, but next time should be fearly easy and fast to do.
Tomorrow or weekend is the time to go for a test drive.
String is the way
Done all my cars this way, if its good enough for race cars its good enough for me.
My latest new to me Megane RS was handling strange with a funny tuck in on right hand corners, quick string and camber check showed the left front camber was half what it should be!
Easy fix when you know how
This is a true story, I read myself into paranoia with �12 Audi S5 cab, mainly over concerns of the transmission and finally got rid of it because I was sick of stressing over it. TBF I did have an acquaintance with the same car that had to replace their transmission so that helped fuel my worries. I went into this (996) eyes wide open and hopefully have addressed the major failures and am determined not to make that same mistake with this car because every summer since I sold the S5 I cursed myself for bailing on it. I read to educate myself now, not to find things to worry about, theoretically at least, lol.
Today I had a chance to test drive the car after string alignment and at the same test drive to take it to track first time after I rebuilt the engine over the winter.
The car handles much more precise after the string alignment also at the street, but at the track I can see real nice improvement on handling.
Engine also works real well and feels to have more torque / power than before the engine work.
This is a great day
Nah, there is nothing wrong with the 3.4 or 3.6 engine. They are durable as hell and can take a pounding on the street.
Whats wrong are 3 bolt on parts and one procedure that Porsche sub-optimized which are easily upgraded/replaced for an enjoyable life.
Parts
1. IMSB
2. AOS
3 Water pump
Procedure
1. Run high moly/high viscosity oil and change it often.
As a 23 year owner of a 3.6, I wosh i could explain why so many folks choose to not do these 4 things and loose sleep. Couldn't be any easier.
It�s a factory fit 996.2 Aerokit spoiler which was part of the Aerokit package which included the side sills back in 2002.
I suspect that the spoiler is more form over function on a 996.2 convertible, but I like the look, particularly with Lapis Blue paint.
Changed brake hoses to steelbrainded ones and also two long brake lines from inside the front fender to the junction box at the middle of the car.
Now the car is pretty much ready for next weekend track outing.
Finally finished with cleaning and removing 26 years of grime,dirt and rust caked up in the wheel wells and rear subframe. Now I can begin installing everything I stock piled in the last few months.
Started with the rear last night.
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Just decided to see if CARVANA was in the picture....Others said they have sold their cars through them....GOSH they offered me $5200 whole dollars for this car...THINKING the A.I> is NOT a Porsche fan.........:-)
They had been sending me lowball offers for years and suddenly got a nice bump in January. I completed the offer process and the they went up $4k and I took it. Something is off with your offer. Mine sold for $22K - 2000 C2 TIP with 56K. It then sold again on BAT for $24K for a dealer.
Bring-A-Trailer
Well, all I can say is that they had the correct info at hand within seconds...just based on license plate data...impressive [and scary]... with all the condition questions answered as "GOOD to Excellent"....I would be tempted to offer to BUY any and all offerings they might have FROM them with similar conditions/milage...NOT in the selling market at this time...... :-0
Few laps on the evening as a test day at local pretty short track - all went real well, car is good to drive after all the work over the winter and as expected a very solid brake feel after installing braided brake hoses about a week ago:
You Tube
Finally had a chance to install some MCS coil overs along with some SPL lower control arms. While the car was in the air, I learned that the skid block on my UIDS ripped off... Yikes lol!
Finished things off with a fresh set of Bridgestone RE71rz tires. 245/40r18 fronts & 315/30r18 rears.
what did I do to my 996? I gave it a hug, no not weirdly but it was essentially a gift from my mother after her passing in 2019. The estate sale was enough for me to purchase the 2002 996 Cabriolet. My license plate says LCEE 996 �In Memory of Elsie King�
Finally finished the suspension refresh this weekend, took it for a quick short test drive, put some fresh DT40 oil and filled up the tank. The difference in handling and ride is insane. Everything on the vehicle was original and worn beyond it's intended life span. My front shocks had no rebound whatsoever, none. To say I'm happy with how it turned out is a massive understatement as this was my first major suspension overhaul job I've ever done. Along with my first ever set of coil over install. I can't explain the sense of satisfaction in having done the job my self and not only seeing my results but also feeling the difference.
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No noticeable difference to me but, I�m a poor judge of �performance upgrades�. There were no specific symptoms, I just decided at 23 years/115K miles to proactively replace them while I had her up doing other work. Now I know they won�t be an issue!!
looks great, which coil overs did you go with, how much did you lower it and what other parts did you replace while you were in there? Preparing to do mine soon and also would like to start buying parts. Was thing FEAL or Yellow Speed Racing. Thanks
[img alt="Also fitted the euro impulse shift ****
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Also fitted the euro impulse shift ****
Cleaned my radiators. Wow - what a satisfying project, and holy cow were these things clogged up and dirty. I recently did the water pump as well, and after this cleaning of the radiators - my water temp gauge now never gets past the "8" on the 180 in the gauge. It's probably 5 degrees Celsius cooler on average. Can't recommend this process enough!
Did the rear toe links last night. The last components to replace for my steering and suspension refresh are the inner and outer tie rods which I'll have done at time of alignment.
I went with the H&R Street coil overs. Unfortunately I did not take measurements before I started the job but the front sits at about 24 �-⅞" fender to ground and the rear sits at about 25.5". From a quick search people are stating stock height is about 26" all around. I will more than likely lower the rear a little bit but only enough so that I can still fit my quick jack without the need to put a wood block under the wheels. The front clears the lift by only about �" so hopefully I'm ok once it settles completely.
As of yesterday the only thing that did not get replaced were the inner and outer tie rods. Those will be done when I get my alignment. I replaced all the lower control arms, the lower control arm links, upper rear links, rear toe links, sway bar links, front wheel bearings, new brake dust shields, new mounts for coil overs, and all the hardware.
I stock piled parts from early January til about early April. In the meantime I cleaned everything while it was apart. Once I had everything I did one corner at a time and went through everything as thoroughly as I could and made sure everything was secured and tightened as best to spec as possible.
Definitely take measurements before you start and mark bolts for alignment before removing. It will make reassembling a lot quicker.
Nice work! Just finished most of this on mine as well.
Have you checked your tie rods? I bought both front and rear control arm kits from FCP euro, the front came with inner and outer tie rods and, though I didn�t think I needed them, I decided to just buy the kit anyways.
Once I got the car in the air, I was able to confirm the tie rods were still good, so I didn�t replace them. Just got the car aligned yesterday and took the new parts with just incase but the shop said the old ones were still good with no play, so I didn't use them.
Seems they are not a common wear item in the 996, from the reading I have done. But they are relatively cheap.
I did check them but can't recall if there was much play. But like you I went ahead and got them anyway since everything on the car is still pretty much original. I had just assumed that since my shocks and all my control arms and links were completely shot that the tie rods must have worn out as well. Funny enough I still have inner and outer tie rods for my VW show car I bought probably a decade ago bc they were completely fine. Good to know it's not a commonly worn part, but I suspect I will end up replacing mine anyway just to keep things nice and tight. The fresh new control arms and all new suspension definitely inspire confidence behind the wheel with how well it responds now.
oh also forgot to mention I made a little adjustment in the rear last night to bring it down a little more. I'll have to take new measurements tonight and see how much it came down. Gotta get it dialed in just right
A reasonably calm day and after Goji's morning ride, top down of course!
I lint rolled the top then cleaned the top with 303 cleaner. I masked off the top with some nifty tape I got from McMaster-Carr, 76705A65 Large-Surface Masking Tape, 21" Wide, 115 Feet Long for $27.24, then waited for the top to dry.
Applied 303 Fabric Guard and now waiting for the Protectant to cure.
Replaced the shifter from ICT on ebay and installed a phone holder/charger RennClassic. Installed Fister exhaust last week and that is awesome. Sounds like it should now and no absolutely no drone
Started changing out my AC Condensers, got some long needed cleaning done along the way�
apparently AKG doesn�t just make great microphones (center radiator)
Now I just have to figure out how to loosen the bolts�
Thanks to a member in the FB group, I was informed that running a Turbo rear sway bar was an upgrade for us C2 poors, and he was definitely right.
Went for a test spin on a very familiar road and there was a noticeable difference, tighter and more planted around the turns.
Highly recommended for a budget upgrade. I picked up the bar on eBay for $85 and spent $25 on some powerflex bushings.
Bought the plastic blenddoor plugs from E-Bay (six months ago!!) and finally installed them. Zero foam left on blend doors, so that made me feel better about the arduous task. How could I lose twoof the plugs in that time? In all the posts I read about doing this task, I missed the part about cabrios having a sub woofer (with hidden Torx screws) that needed to be removed to complete the job.
Unrelated, but not too unrelated, I was able to inspect the top of my gas tank to see if my P0455 code was caused by something broken or malfunctioning there. It's always nice to be able to kill two birds with one stone (unless you're an ornithologist)!
I have AC again! Just in time for summer�Turned into a big multi day project due to several factors; frozen bolts, not having all the little parts I needed (o-rings, new bolts, cloth tape etc�) and finding things that needed to be addressed �while I was in there��
You took the hard way didn't you. I went in from the front inside the car and used HVac aluminum tape and solved the problem. No need ripping the front of the car off....lol
I'm having my suspension, shocks, wheel bearings and rear axles replaced. The shocks and suspension were rattling my dentures from the poor roads. Rear axles were discovered during the service. The leaks weren't readily visible in the way liquid is from dripping on the floor.
Really just maintenance. Other than replacing the stock mufflers for Fister, I'm not planning any body mods. Just rebuilding the mechanics and interior issues. I also had it repainted recently.
I did all new arms, struts and tie rods. It rides so much better now! Debated changing springs but any lower than stock would be a pain to get on a lift. Also I ordered a numeric shifter and a taco wing.
I did some prep for the SCCA Hillclimb in VA in 2 weeks.
I drove up in the Smoky mountains in the fall last year, there was a good bit of accumulation behind the condensers, I had cleaned these last year only.
Next I replaced my front bumper bar with a Euro unit and Cayman/euro non impact absorbing bumpers, saves about 6 lbs off the front
I installed 997 flat floor pans to improve underbody aero- note the rear triangle is missing in this photo.
Did some zip tie repair on the front bumper when my ABS decided to act up and I jumped a curb at VIR.
Installed my muffler bypass pipes just for this event- you won't be able to say you didn't hear me coming!
You can't use the Euro rear bumper bar (the euro bumper bars are thinner alum. and smaller (lighter), because of the US bumperettes. So I swiss cheesed the bar and replaced the impact absorbers with the 997/cayman version.
Made a trip for pizza and hardware store to make sure the general public doesn't forget what a real car sounds like.
--Aaron
After the electronics failed in the both seats, I opted to replace them with manual 997.2 seats. What an incredible difference. I had to cut out the passenger seat frame, but this is a great upgrade.
The P.O. had a Prototipo on the 1974 2.7 when I bought it in 1986 (THE 917 steering wheel!!!)
I wanted a MOMO (because I didn't know what a Prototipo was, pre internet...)
I sold the Prototipo at an Automotion swap meet in Santa Clara for (I think) $50
If you are the guy who bought it, I would like to buy it back...
One of my life regrets...
Paul
I'm 6'2" so the seats really helped with clearing my noggin, but the side bolsters are also much better. Its the difference between sitting in a seat and sitting on a seat.
Troubleshooting a 2001 C2 Tip, ABS and speed sensor communications issues. As part of the Troubleshooting process removed both and installed new front sensors. Both sensors are reading perfectly to the ABS module but still having communications issues even after Module Master rebuild. Spoke to Typle at MM today. "i spokewith module masters today and they recommended i drive to see how long it takes for the abs module to lose connection with the piwis3 and display the 11070. i drove 2-3 miles taking around 10 minutes staying under 25 kmph and then slowly increased to kmph till at around 50-55 kmph the piwis displayed the 11070. prior to that both the psm and abs dashlights were illuminated but once the 11070 was displayed both dashlights went out." so I guess the abs modules goes back for more testing and repair.
I installed my Rennlist.com sticker and got my drivers side wiper arm repositioned and properly torqued into place. Hopefully my wiper arm won�t take the day off for a vacation into my drivers side mirror in the pouring rain again.
Changed front wheel berarings that were on past due - and the car is quieter on the highways.
Last image has also my son's Golf MK2 that he works on as a hobby.
Took some time over the last few days to clean the car, vacuum out the interior,
adjusted the frunk latch as it was hard to pull the lever and the hood was hard to press down. Moved it up about 1/32nd of an inch. Functions properly now.
Also cleaned out the radiators.
first time doing this, I�ve had the car about a month. Plugs and coils next. Then ordering a bunch of coolant hoses, water pump and thermostat.
till then.
Re routed the frunk manual release cable to the tow hook area. Do not remove the wheel liner! Remove the RH headlight, the rubber cover over the latch. Took a coat hanger, pulled the cable out near the front of the headlight, cut the swage holding the loop, needs to be done as it goes through a plastic guide. Pull it out near the latch, re swage the loop, feed the cable neck down towards the tow hook area, pull it through with the coat hanger. Test it. Push the cable back to where it�s accessible. Re install the plastic cap.
thank you. It�s definitely on my radar. I think I�ll probably tackle that when I do the AOS in the fall or winter.
A quick rinse off and dry before it goes back in the barn and under cover. The challenges of living on a country road.
I have been told that the "coolant rez" is a rather $$$ item for the 996.1s. In addition, it is a PITA to get R&R with engine in car. Some say drop the engine to the bottom of the engine mount bolts, a couple of inches and lowering helps. TBH, I had UAOS +Track Drain, WP +LTT, Plugs & Coil-Packs, 997 Oil Return Tubes, original IMSB, SAI- delete, and "reported bore-scoring, "minor", and 110K on engine.
I was former A/Cooled Ptech/shop owner (30-40 years) . I already replaced front suspension, CV drive shafts+CVs. and had 3-5 didley-but-PITA-inside issues to fix. No Indy Pshop anywhere near here, dealer outrageous $$$/parts replacer @ Porsche God Prices. "I Am the Warranty" shirt", so I bailed. I have "owned" the car for a little over a year, or has the car "owned" me(?). Not many miles by me except to get it home. Anyway, I wanted reliability, absolute priority. Nothing less! OK with more power/torque if its there, but Reliability is King. So I drove the car to a top-tier engine rebuilder - Slakker with Hartech techno.
Screw it. XYZ-cost, high, but doable, even retired, but not with out some effort. I don't do Credit, zero payments here for anything and everything. There ain't no pockets in coffins and I am an "older fellow". The C4S is gonna be the last pcar for me and I thoroughly enjoy it. It will come back better than it ever was and be reliable. Empty wallet, Case closed.
I have received my engine dyno charts and they surpass a 2009 3.8L Carrera S, piece-of-cake. Fine with me, and pretty darn close to original 996TT numbers without the turbo-stuff. Anyway, back to the AOS, think about it and Do Not Get A Porsche AOS!. Get the UAOS with Track Drain even if you never put the car on a track. Just piece of mind, reliability. I lived on a "dirt-road" and Never would do that again if/when I had a Pcar. The road and driveway is paved, I pave it, or forget it. JMO.
YMMV
I installed the 997.1 Carrera S intake manifold on my aerokit car with the adapter made by FSI/LN Engineering.
It is an engine out job, unless you like working in very confined spaces!
I then ran this weekend at the SCCA Flag Rock Hillclimb in Norton, VA. It was wet so times were slower then last year and we only got 5 runs compared to the average 8. I am very happy with my 10/83 OA finish up against homebuilt ariel atom type cars with 500+hp and much newer cars like the AWD GTR and Supra.
--Aaron
tuning - still getting it dialed in.
I am interested in the 997.1 Carrera S intake mod. How did you account for the vacuum line to the brake booster? Did you use the 997.1 oil/vacuum pump on the bank 2 head?
Thanks
Mark
That's fantastic and congrats! Driver mod > power mod and goes to show how great the chassis is when set up properly.
Also, save for that hay bale, that's a great photo. You should frame it and hang it in the shop!
Drill, insert screws from inside and some silicone. Use adapter from old intake. I did have to lower the motor to get it to fit, as you can see the manifold is just kissing the pad.
The only thing I need to work on is the mount for the positive power power and the UAOS mount as now it is floating.
--Aaron
I need to get a customer 997.1 Carrera S over to see if its rubbing as well, looking at photos online it looks like its super close to the pad
While putting in a Ctek charging setup on the battery posts I discovered after removing the upper three plastic panels the following...... 1] various hold-down fasteners were missing pieces and/or captive bolts..2].the drainage ports on both sides were filled with GUNK... resulting in some standing water....Got most of these problems sorted straight away and noticed little bits of plastic here and there....3] the front panel [black plastic] covering the latch mechanism was shedding bits and pieces of it self...[hence the random plastic bits about]...Ordered a new Porsche part and hope to install it by this weekend...while evaluating the headlight bucket rubber surrounds at the same time....This is on an early build 996 [1954-4/98]..... Only 68 K on the clock but some signs of less than loving care in the front trunk area...CHEERS...JON
Happy to share.... there are some attachments included with the battery tender/charger [which I highly recommend ... had my second one crap-out after 1 year and they replaced it].... One of the attachments mentioned is designed to attach to the POS and NEG clamps nuts... and I fed it up to the front of the battery cover [so all you see is the modular plug]... also included a photo of the decomposing front plastic hood lock cover..[considering how many are offered on E-Bay seems like a common problem]...Cheers, JON
I use CTEK chargers too but I'm a lazy SOB so I have the connector coming out just under the windshield. That way I don't have to open the hood when I want to hook it up. Yes it shows, but I can hide it if I want to. Plus it sparks the occasional conversation at gas pumps or car gatherings.
Isn't temp a little "hot" for "cooler" weather temps? I don't know what your temp (or mine for that matter) is at that point, but 2 me, it seems high. I was in LV when it was 112F+ or so, never had that high of temp. However, C4S, bigger rads made a difference? Others can comment on "probably temp" in photo.
I have the Coopduc oil temp gauge in both "white and Orange" numbers, waiting for car to come back to me to put it in. Since you do a lot with making your 996 perfect, maybe get one and put it in one of the horseshoe buttons? It is fairly inexpensive and I like the Orange Number one. Coopduc is on RL .... It would seem like a good "add" to a LV 996. (not a paid advertisement, no relation, etc.)
YMMV
Changed my oil pressure sensor today. I watched a few videos on Youtube and luckily it ended up being about a 10min job getting to it from the top of the engine bay using a 19mm crowsfoot. The old one looks to be the original unit from 2002.
Bumper cover off (lots of recalcitrant fixings), cleaned up the radiators, which were both partially obstructed by old leaves and other detritus.
Also replaced both leaking condensers.
Looking to recharge the AC next week.
Not hard to do, but old fixings do present a challenge. As do old bones!
Wow! QUOTE: " recalcitrant fixings". Big Word! Maybe you belong in the high nose-bleed $$$$ valued GTx's forums! Shucks dude, ain't no one in the lower levels ever use the Big Word " recalcitrant". Them babies are just stuck tight or something. Kinda goes along with Porsche Motorsport AOS is "Great", a "perfidy". 'Course, whaddaya expect from the separatist colonies?
( My kind of humor, no offence meant)
YMMV
Ain't nobody here that doesn't appreciate a good humored jab at the " gold chain set"..... been a Porsche fan [owner and PCA member for many years].. without [hopefully] developing a snobbery to anyone who is passionate about these cars .... That said by a former 356A,356C, swb911s,924, 56-4cam Speedster, 3.0 Carrera targa,... with current cars 99 996 and a 914...So goes life...Cheers,Jon
Thank you for the interesting comment on my post.
Has it escaped you that I�m getting my hands dirty and also getting backache from doing the job myself on my 24 year old 996?
Hardly high nose-bleed ����� GTx�s (whatever they are).
I�d rather do jobs like this myself as I enjoy them and get to understand the workings of my old 996 better.
I left replacing the IMS, RMS, standard Porsche 996 AOS, oil pressure sender, rigid brake lines and a full suspension refresh to the local 996/7 specialists though.
I did recently replace all four discs, pads, pins, springs, shims and sensors on the brakes myself.
Thanks to helpful people who post constructive how-to guides on here, together with Porsche factory workshop manuals, the jobs become much more do-able. Helpful is good.
A belated Happy 250th to the former colony.
I gave here some brushed aluminum speedo/gauge rings from Dido Tuning and some new LCD bulbs as the odometer/trip tick had gone dark.
Also added a leather speedocover for fun whole I had the binnacle apart.
They do but the standard bar is thicker, heavier and does not have the cut outs. U would be interested in the part number just to verify. Might be a ROW thing but i dont thinks so.
Thanks for that and I understand what you mean.
I have no idea why my 996 might have a lightweight front bar. There is nothing about it in the options list and the car has clearly never had a front end shunt.
Unfortunately, the front end is now all buttoned up, so I can�t check the part number.
I will next time I have the bumper cover off.
Should be a lot easier to do, as I�ve replaced about 50% of the fixings and sprayed the remainder with ACF-50.
Having a lightweight front bumper in a 911 shows just how much, by the turn of the century, the 911 has evolved from its introduction in the 1960s. Then, the front bumper had lead weights fitted to even up the F-R weight distribution and reduce the chance of spirited (but inexperienced) drivers from going backwards into the vegetation on sharp corners!
Forgive me but what or who are the �gold chain set�?
You like a �jab� at them. Why?
More money than you?
Heads up - there will always be somebody more successful, more good looking, younger, richer and with nicer Porsches than you.
Get over it. I have.
Is my DIY clean up of my 24 year old 996 on my front drive a sign of being a �gold chain set�?
Then you segue into a monologue of being a Porsche owner for many years and not being a snob while quoting how many valuable Porsches you have owned over many, many years.
Are you a Porsche Troll?
Just asking for a friend.
a
Nope, Just a guy who works on his 25 year old car in his driveway as well.... as far as the list of Porsches owned it just a fact.... sorry you took offense...Peace and Cheers...Jon
Thanks for that. I guess we got our wires crossed.
Sorry if I was a bit heavy handed.
I lived in Mystic CT for three years, around the turn of the century, on exchange in the Navy (I completed 35 years of Naval service in 2022) then working in the submarine tactical development team for COMSUDEVRON 12 at the Subase New London.
I got to know your country well and have so many great memories of a truly wonderful people. Kind, decent, family-oriented folks.
Take care and I hope your 996 gives you as much pleasure as mine does me.
Brilliant, sharp, alive machines.
Would agree completely with your characterization [apologies. for the spelling] of the early 996... Sword Beach wasn't fun [hence the nondeplume "Damocleses"] ....West Coast [USA] humor is sometimes a bit off center... to show you I am somewhat in your camp , I do own a Aston Martin DB9... Cheers, Jon
I hope I didn't get you too excited as I just replaced all three bulbs with Osram Sylvania standard bulbs from Pelican parts - they were a couple of dollars a piece but did all three which gave uniform brightness. Well worth the improvement.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...n=2452MFX6-M97
Had a great track weekend at the Porsche Ring P�rnu (Estonia) with my 996. Much more to learn, specially on using the whole track width, but progress is good.
I did a few hot laps in a 4.0 boxster while on vacation in Eesti. Wish I had my own car. Surprised to see it on our way to Soomaa national park and just had to stop. It was even Mother�s Day but the wife insisted�
I have always liked a white 911. Great color! I had a "Chiffon white" 911 back in the ages of dinosaurs. Congrats on keeping the orange side markers (called pumpkins). They make a nice color contrast instead of blending in to obscurity like clear ones. JMO.
I like the track layout quite much. This is my third year to vosit on this Porsche Ring P�rnu from Finland an dplan to get there also in the future.
Next weekend plan is to do a track day at Alastaro Circuit (Finland).
I'd love to drive that nice track, Ring Parnu, suppose to be the best most modern track in all the Nordic Countries.
Big ride for you. Must be close to 800-1000 ? miles drive for you. Depending where you start from in Finland. If you drive thru Saint Petersburg it a long nice ride. Or do you take a ferry to Tallinn..? Do you drive the 996 or trailer it..?
Drive is not that long for me, since I live at Espoo - very next to Helsinki and take a Helsinki-Tallinn ferry. from Tallinn the drive to P�rnu is littel less that 2 hours south - roughly one way trip of driving 225km for me. And yes, I drive my 996 there, actually to most of the track days to. Only couple of times a year I trailer it.
General inspecting & cleaning weekend. New tires, cleaned rads, leather care. Figuring out how to prioritize restoration. Interior was neglected & has sun damaged leather. Rear window seal is compromised. Hoping mechanical side is as solid as it feels the first 200mi. Motor mounts likely need replacing.
Got this new-to-me '01 Orientrot (from BaT). My first P Car!
105k miles, well maintained, mechanically sound. Needs a bit of interior love.
Already started with a few cosmetics ....cover for the Tow Hook hole
(Painted with Behr Metallic Red + 1k clear) - a pretty darn close match!
And some 3D printed roll bar covers - which immediately began to warp in the sun
Also - the whole cover assembly is falling apart and stained - needs a total replacement.
Yesterday went for another - this time local - track for a trck day practice.
Much of the day was rain - few occasions massive amonts... Lockily towards the evening the track started to dry out and times were getting better.
Uploaded the video to the 996 Track videos -thread.
6'3" here - on the hunt for some 997 seats (ideally powered, heated, and gray)....
Also is there anything resembling a plug and play electrics harness to swap into a 996?
Installed a
Rennline Carbon Fiber Gauge Cluster Trim
in my 996.2.
It works great with an aluminum
Hazard Trim Phone Mount
.
It looks great with my carbon fiber wing, mirrors, door pocket door, inside door handle trim.
Here are some quick pics of the gauge cluster trim:
Thank you.
I'm trying to get the lines good first and then up the speed, but like you said, the wet surface is not my friend either ,while it is very common here.
Found some time to rip into the top of the motor to clean out some debris that some rodents left behind a while back. I lowered the motor, removed the plenum and the throttle body and was able to get pretty good access. You can see a bit on the top of the photo where they took out some of the engine compartment sound deadening, which is mostly foam. I have thought about replacing it but that would require the engine to come out or at least removal of complete intake portion of the motor. No space to drop the motor so this could be a winter project.... There was some insulation missing on the smaller starter cable but the wiring was intact. I ended up repairing it with a combination of electrical tape, then a layer of cloth wiring tape and then this wiring loom thing that is plastic and pretty tightly woven. Using compressed air I blew out a bunch of stuff, vacuumed some and used a cloth soaked in pine sol to clean a bit more. Should be able to button it up today. Will smoke test to make sure to leaks are present.
After installing the front trim [plastic/rubber] panel , I replaced a passenger side panel in frunk [next to the battery] hold-down Allen screw with a plastic T-shaped zip tie with a cap [orginal captive nut was long gone], after cleaning out the drain hole....next up installing LED H-7's in headlights [while investigation some condensation in the small amber]... also trying to revive the 6 CD changer...been driving the Carrera almost daily and it's only getting better...Brillant response and road dynamics...Cheers, Jon
Used BG 44K fuel system cleaner in today's fillup.
Have used (and been happy with) Techron and Redline fuel system cleaners in the past. BG 44K is supposed to be better (it's certainly
should
be better given the price
)
, we'll see how it does.
Not currently willing to shell out the big bucks to �amber� my Litronics, so I got some Lamin-X amber film to simulate the amber headlights.
I wrapped the drivers side headlight today as a color check test.
The film color is a bit darker than the amber headlights, but the color is a spot on match for the stock amber tail lights. It looks fine from 5ft away.
I may be a poser putting ambers on my 2000, but the car looks so much better (iconic) with the ambers.
This is my Carrara White 2003 996 the pure simplicity of the color is kinda unique in the PTS current Porsche world. PTS �not that there is anything wrong with that� 😀
Rich
Installed Bluetooth in a 24 year old car with the following DIY:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ker-radio.html
love that I was able to maintain the classic look of the radio while still getting amazing audio quality
I�m always amazed at how well wraps work! Your car looks great.
Totally agree! My wife drives a carrera white 987.2 boxster and the combination of the expansive white with black top/trim and red tail lights is stunning.
My plan is to get the car unwrapped, but I think the white looks really really good on the 996. I don�t generally like white cars, but there is something about 80s and 90s cars in white. I guess back when it wasn�t such a common color.
Yesterday did the oil and filter change and filter was super clean, nothing but oil in it.
Same time aired the brakes after last weekends Alastaro track day and few veeeery small bubbles showed up with Motul Race 600 -fluid. This week plan is to have 2 or 3 track days, so brakes need to work 'as advertised'
While working with brakes, I noticed that drilled rotors have quite few drilled holes full of brake dust, so I cleaned all of those from each rotor (not fun...). Pads I'm currently using are DS3000 and I like those for the track.
Next rotors will not be drilled, most likely some slotted ones.
Drilled cooling holes with brake dust.
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Cleanign the dust
I love my amber side repeaters. I have even contemplated getting the yolk in bottom of headlight refinished in amber. I guess they made it less eggy in the 2001 models.
Actual numbers are hard to pin down; but, approximately 2,000 of the first 996 cars off the combined 993 and 996 line were outfitted with ambers... photos of the tail section....Cheers, Jon
Visited it at the bodyshop and dropped off the new used Litronics for it. Factory aero bumper and skirts loading! Making lemonade out of hitting a deer.
It�s in good company at least. That�s the real Sahlen�s car.
The automatic return mechanism on my turn signal lever broke a couple of months ago. I tried going the ebay route but the stalk assembly I got from ebay was broken on arrival. Darn 28 year old plastic! Anyway, I just bought a new unit from
Suncoast
and installed it. I had to straighten the steering wheel but everything works now.
Did you see this one in the classified section? It has been listed for a while, so the price might be negotiable. No affliation with the seller. I just remember seeing it being reposted.
https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1498278
Replaced a Tarett rear sway bar that had cracked.
Six years old 100+ track days.
Not exactly sure when it happened. It was on the top and went under the bushing.
In much light it looked like the paint was chipped.
Will see how it feels next week at WG.
We are going to need to see some more pics of that 914!
You can't just post one cryptic teaser photo -- I'm pretty sure that violates some obscure forum rule
Looks very good with the 5-spoke wheels. I like them cuz they show the great looking brakes! (mine - C4S) I have Carrera IIIs, a little fatter spokes and flatish on the outside. In general, I think black wheels look terrible. JMO.
YMMV
All I can show you all at this time... [not nearly ready to show or drive it yet]... are some of the component parts....A real glacial moving project...BUT warming up....Cheers, Jon
jack stand bound
Hey, it's French
expired tags
ATS wheels
still looking for 2 more MoMo wheels to complete set
Was thinking about coating mine but was wondering�will wheel weights stick after the fact? Obviously you can coat them right after new tires or a balance but what about later down the road?
25 year old dash & rear speakers replaced - I guess the prior owners never turned on the music! (It's also a stock exhaust so not like its THAT impressive to just listen to the engine...)
Got lucky - Found these Alpine speakers in a closet, I intended to use to upgrade my X3 like 8 years ago - never installed them.
Used, with slight modification - some 3D Printed brackets (similar design as the stock speakers), found here
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6544649
Fit super easily into both dash and the rear (and I have a cabrio with tight clearance).
Printed with a new-to-me filament - HT-PLA (High Temperature).
The sound is fantastic - even with the stock door woofers. I'm sure it could be better still, but its a large enough improvement to put further audio mods down the priority list
Managed to finish ceramic coating my Cab. After I recover and find the time, I'll pull the wheels on her and the Turbo and ceramic coat them and the calipers.
Took the drivers seat out to repair the torn sling that supports the seat bottom. That sucker is heavy! I used a sheet of plastic and some contact cement to do the repair without having to disassemble the already complex seat. Time will tell if the repair lasts.
Before:
After:
A few days late:
Wednesday: reinstalled the welded-up catalytic converters. Discovered my welding left some pinholes.
Thursday: applied an exhaust cement to fill-in said pinholes
Friday: reinstalled the bumper cover, realized I left the plate lights disconnected.
Saturday: reconnected the plate lights.
Sounds great, no more pretending to be a bolt rattling in a can.
LOL. I bet that doesn't include labor!!
I searched the web for a DIY to do just that, and came up short. When I got the seat on the workbench, it appeared to me that disassembly to get that piece out would be a ton of work. With all the electric motors, wiring and other detritus in the way, I concluded that fixing the broken sling would be more practical. If you have access to a DIY, though, I would love to see it. If my McGyver repair goes south, I'd like to be able to replace the sling properly.
Another thinng I did accomplish though was to install lumbar supports in the seat back. My center section was split where the stitching crosses the perforated leather, so I ordered a new center section from eBay, and installed a couple of blood pressure cuffs in the seat back before putting the new(er) center section in. Another of those 'While you're in there" tasks.
Went for a drive today with a friend who had never rode in , let alone driven a Porsche [all part of my outreach program to the sports car impaired]... Chris was thrilled to be shown all the "foibles" of the 99 Carrera 911... He was even more excited to take the wheel and drive... We all have our hobbies and love to share them... will be going over soon to see his 50+ electric guitar collection...[I'm sure I'll be just as amazed and pleased to see them as he was to be driving the Porsche]...Cheers, Jon
The webbing goes in from the top. You take the seat cover off, remove the foam, remove the webbing. There is a plastic piece that holds the webbing/foam/seat cover that can also break, it isn't expensive from Porsche. I changed the plastic shell and webbing and foams on my car when I got it, at 160k miles they were completely used up.
That's great to know. I'm surprised I couldn't find any instructions like that on the web when I searched. I took the car for a spin today and was amazed at how well my McGyver fix worked, but I won't be shocked if it gives up the ghost in a few months/years. I'll buy the new sling and install it from the top for a real 20 year solution!
Thanks!
Ordered some 8mm spacers a couple weeks ago, put them on last weekend. Realized upon delivery that a "set" is 2, not 4.. so went back and ordered the rears, which had free shipping and 2day delivery!
so in the last few days, spacers on all four corners, a moderate wheel clean & oil change to get the car running on decent oil.
also realized i should completely refresh the suspension as dampers look original and bump stops are mostly gone (!)
Original old lcd panel
Replacement
This was from Ebay. Procrastinating on doing bigger jobs but the dash is fairly easy to work on so far. It's kind of "modular". I only previously replaced an odometer bulb, but that was pretty straightforward as well.
Well, if it's not that hard, maybe I can find a brighter bulb (maybe LED) for my turn signal indicators and swap the old dim bulbs out. I'm tired of driving for miles with my turn indicators on in my cabriolet! Brighter bulbs would solve that embarrassing problem!
I added more carbon fiber to my interior.
Looks great with my carbon fiber gauge cluster trim, door pull handles, door arm rests, mirrors, and rear spoiler.
When temps drop some I plan on doing some more changes to my interior.
I finally got the other headlight vinyl wrapped amber. The results aren�t perfect, and I still plan on getting an actual set of ambers eventually, but for now, this will be sufficient.
Next on the list is installing those Fister mufflers as seen in the background. I just got the new replacement exhaust hardware and some jack pads in the mail, so hopefully I�ve got everything I need now.
Please keep us posted on the Fister replacements, your experience... etc... thinking of the same modification myself... it's fun tweaking these early 996's... not much to loose but the mediocre stock parameters and the opportunity to make it just the way you want it...Cheers, Jon
I now have side blinkers. Made the jump this weekend. There was a learning curve complicated by stupidity but I got both sides done. Now I blink on the sides at appropriate times.
I would feel bad about cracking open a pair of nice ambers to reface my Litronics. My plan is to get a cheap pair of Boxster ambers and get them professionally refinished. Then, I�d just swap the amber lenses for the clears.
Freshly cleaned and polished
Cars and coffee Sunday morning, a bit cool here but clears up later in the day with clear blue skies and dry roads.
Then a few new shots on a clear road.
Used 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000 grit sandpaper on a soft foam pad on a drill. I think the Velcro backer may have put in a slight loop pattern I couldn�t polish out with Plast-X.
I need to wrap them with Xpel PPF to give physical and UV protection before I reinstall.
Wow. Have been fighting the junky factory original, faux-woodgrain interior plastic bits on my 996 for too long. Looked at the aftermarket plastic replacement kits, but they all looked cheap and felt like simply repeating the original mistake.
Found a terrific shop in Santa Rosa (SF Bay area - California) that "gets it." Just picked up the car and good gawd is it gorgeous. They crafted real leather replacements and it transforms the car. Cost was about the same as the shops that wanted to install the plastic kits.
Pacific Coast Interior if you care or share the frustration of this 996 issue.
The factory trim isn�t faux wood (as far as I know), but the real wood is faux strength and faux durability
.
Would love to see you before and after pics.
After 12 years with a sagging seat I unbolted the seat, took it off and delivered the seat to an upholsterer to fix.
$200 later it is like it should be. Duh.
OK, I get it... factory stuff just degrades after 20+ years... personality I'm going the adhesive route... will post photos before and after...No, I'm not a poser but just trying to upgrade the factory interior with modern-day additions.....visuals later... just sent my BMW to LA for modernization...
@swb911s
What do you mean by modernization? I would be interested in reading an update and seeing some pics upon its return.
I love your car collection!
Modernization can take many forms...It could be an engine swap [with manual transmission] and the addition of an LSD higher numbered diff...renewing the suspension systems, while going over the electrics [ designed in the late eighties, even though this is a '97].. some modules are aging out...Not much in the body and wheels... maybe some minor additions to the front or back... interior might get a refresh [at least a deep clean]... All done at Alec's new shop in Rancho Santa Margarita.....Will post the process [especially if it turns heroic]...Cheers, Jon
Hope the Tesla didn''t mind the intrusion
destination
just before loading
Bought a replacement driver's seat in decent condition to replace a torn original. Replacement is 8way with black accents while the original is 12way, all grey. Replacement also had very stiff leather, so applied leatherique 2-stage rejuvenate and cleaner, impressed with the results. 1 day in a trash bag in the sun softened it up noticeably, may do another round before installation. Broke down the replacement to transfer the leather sections, now to buy a torx14 socket to pull out the original..
Original
Replacement
Not too bad for not having any experience with Xpel. I still need to trim the top edges a little but all in all I think it came out decently.
New washer caps too.
Design911 actually had them cheaper than any of my other options. Delivered within the week from the UK to the UAE.
There is an entire set of 3 CSF radiators & 2 condensers that I got wrong. For posterity, the part numbers are:
7056 & 7055 for the front left & right section
8394 for the condensers
7054 for the central radiator
All parts are drop in, bolt on, plug & play. The central radiator, however, requires some fabrication work - 7054 is designed keeping in mind the Turbo/C4S bumper geometry.
This was all grey so changed some trim to black and then had the centre console & instrument binnacle hydro dipped in carbon
Bought a couple of 3D printed cupholders and installed
Had the IMS Solution and UAOS installed. Original IMS with 250,910 miles on it was still good and tight when it came out
.
Thank you
@RennPart
for exceeding expectations!
OK, as I said in my last post [concerning interior "enhancements"], the first of my adhesive efforts [re... faux carbon fiber vinyl]... learning as we go.... on the early 996 the cabled release levers are subject to wear from exiting the cabin...I think it looks OK...only thing lacking is the pictured symbol of which compartment you are opening...but I think I can Handle that....Cheers, JON
OK while NOT springing for the real deal carbon fiber pieces ... I will try the cheapo adhesive route.... here is a before picture... if it turns out anywhere near OK , I'll post an after...Cheers, JON
Picked up flugel from the shop, went for a drive then wash. Turns out my spark plugs were all loose due to improper install, leading to misfire when warm (P306) & a completely dead cylinder. Given the location it freaked me out. So this was pretty much best case scenario. Gonna ask for a warranty refund & do that job myself next time.
Not a big sticker guy but made an exception
https://www.design911.co.uk/p/headla...1-boxster-986/
They were kind of expensive after DHL shipping and duty was factored in.
I saw them on eBay for about half the price I paid. But �.I decided against it.
Maybe someone knows where to get them for cheaper or have experience with the ones from eBay.
The gaskets from Design911 were good quality reproductions that fit great.
I saw that listing as well and wasn't so sure about it either. I can't tell if they are actually new or just old used ones in reallygood condition. I'm all for saving money but not at the cost of quality.
Guess I'll have to find something else to add on my order to get more value out of it.
It looks like I may have figured out what the creaking and groaning in my driver�s front corner is. This boot on the lower control arm is busted. I shot a good dose of silicone lubricant into the boot, and the plan is to give it a drive tomorrow to see if it is any quieter. My preliminary testing of �jump up and down on the drivers door sill� after applying the lube was giving me some promising results.
Anyone know if I can just replace that arm on its own without doing a full replacement on the other suspension parts? The suspension was fully gone through about 20k miles ago.
I know that the arm is just once piece. There are a lot of other �while you�re in there� kind of components that I would like to avoid replacing though if it is kosher to do so. I would just be replacing the �coffin arm� and probably the bolts/nuts.
I advise you to take your time to find a high-quality TRW or Porsche part and to carefully check the dimensions of the bushing that attaches to the subframe. Compare these dimensions to your old part by compressing it. There have been several cases of subframe mounting cracks on 9x7s.
Yeah, you can do that. I did my sway arm bushes at the same time, they're cheap and easy. Check your outer tie rods wyit. Also, relatively cheap. Mine made a big difference.
I�ve just fitted PCCM plus to my 2002 996.2 C4 tiptronic cabriolet and it works a treat!
Originally fitted with the basic audio set-up of a CDR-23 unit and non-Bose audio, my 996 had been professionally fitted with a double-DIN pioneer unit in around 2016, so the climate control unit had already been migrated to the bottom of the central column. I removed all the Pioneer-specific wiring and the cage (fortunately the original Porsche audio loom was untouched as adapters were used throughout) and the Pioneer mic, DAB aerial and USB cables etc. I took my time to patiently identify which cables were aftermarket and could be removed and which were the original Porsche loom components. It helps that my 996 hasn't been �bodged�.
It was a bit of a business getting the PCCM plus microphone installed in the factory location and likewise the GPS aerial but I got there. Needed a DIN to Fakra adaptor in addition to the wiring provided and I used the steel clamps provided to secure it to the double-DIN opening which had been chopped about a bit for the Pioneer install. I�m waiting on a wireless USB dongle to get Apple CarPlay up and running and have located the USB connector box under the PCCM out of sight, above the cubby storage unit that I fitted to replace the redundant CD storage unit.
I�m delighted with the PCCM plus. It�s intuitive, quick, sounds good and looks great in a OEM way. I hated the soft keys for volume control on the Pioneer unit, but the rotary volume control and the other hard key functions on the PCCM plus make it a delight to use. It has just the right blend of hard key and soft key controls.
My 996 had a poverty-spec basic audio with no amp when delivered new, but I have fitted Alpine S40 speakers which are a big improvement.
I purchased the unit for a very good price from a UK OPC (�400 under list) and fitted it myself. The dealer kindly supplied the dealer PCCM plus fitting instructions, which helped, as did this forum and Google AI. I also have the factory workshop manual in PDF and printed off the relevant pages of dashboard dismantling and reassembly guidance.
I was going to have it professionally fitted but decided to take up the challenge. Glad I did.
Well chuffed.
Why did you removed the gauges? I also installed the PCCM + on a 2004 TT. Had it done at Best Buy and they charged only $125 and did a great job. Although I like the OEM look, I was not that please with the unit. I sold the car, and new owner is happy. Now I am looking to replace the HU on my 997 Turbo and looking at options other than PCCM plus
I removed the gauges to fit the microphone in the factory location under the small round grille on the extreme right of the gauge panel. The gauge panel has to be removed to fit it and thread its wire back to the PCCM unit. I clipped the wire into the OEM cut outs in the back of the gauges as designed. It works well there and its out of sight.
I like the PCCM plus functionality, its audio performance and it looks in keeping with the interior of my 996. Ive never been a big fan of aftermarket installations. Just my preference.
I�m now thinking about getting the single DIN PCCM unit for my 928��.
@Damocles03
Nice work. Thx for the photos.
Is the screen still bright and fully visible with the top down? My Pioneer can be a bit challenging to see in really bright sunlight.
Thanks! It was worth it.
The PCCM plus screen is considerably brighter and larger with better definition than the Pioneer unit I had, which was, like yours, challenging to see in bright sunlight.
I�ll have to reserve judgement on the really bright sunlight bit until I�ve lived with it for a week or so. Early indications are that it should be fine.
I really like it. It was optimised for the 996.2 and it shows.
@Damocles03
Please do report back on the sunlight :-)
Although I am not quite sure you chaps get as bright a sun as in Florida and Alabama, except a couple of days a year.
Happy driving!
Delighted to report back on the sunlight IDC.
It�s been the hottest, driest and sunniest summer for over 50 years here. Temperatures regularly over 30c and often 35c and above down south where I live. Everything is parched. We had no rainfall whatsoever for four months.
Not your usual British summer at all.
Re-skinned "Bumperettes"....These first efforts look OK [but now I know why Barb does all the Xmas wrapping]...we'll see how they hold up...Less than $15 worth of faux carbon fiber film...
Bare naked
looks OK
better than orginal... easy to redo or revert to stock
Start the engine, turn on the AC. The fans are commanded to run at the low speed. Just go listen at the front on each side and you can hear them.
More complicated is to get a Durametric and turn the fans on from there.
finally replaced my worn out shifter with a short shifter with new bearings. The old bushings were very loose. Now I have to paint the center console, "while I'm in there."
A continuation of my "adhesive" modification of the vast grey areas of my 99 Carrera's interior......Also gave some seat time to a good friend , who returned from living in Paris for three years, in said Carrera....BTW he loved it.... felt how analog the car was from the out set.....Cheers, Jon
Also still fighting the CD changer... got it working but now it stopped...display now says "Mag removed"....??
Quick question for you guys.
After cleaning up items like sway bar, horizontal cross member bars. Would you guys seal or paint them? If yes, what have you found to be the best products that are strong and durable?
I cleaned mine up and painted them with Rustoleum 2X and satin clear. I haven�t been back under to see how durable the finish is but, there isn�t anything rubbing these pieces so, absent contact with something, I think they�ll hold up fine. Mine was a winter long project. I spent a fair amount of time prepping, painting and curing the parts. Not sure it was really worth the effort, but� it�s a hobby : )
Went for a short drive yesterday the Love Bugs here in Sebring are really bad this time took an hour to clean them off a white car, at least the white paint shows where they are 😀
Rich
Back from a major engine out service to tackle timing chains & guides (and all related items in there like VarioCam pads), RMS, clutch, flywheel, AOS, and transmission fluid flush.
110K kms (68K mi)
Had a great practice day at the track - most of the day it was raining and the driving was fairly much sliding around, but managed to keep it on the track.
Placed a video on the 996 track video thread.
A final set of images from my "Adhesive Upgrade" efforts [all reversible if I find they don't work or look cheesy]... note: the I Phone camera yields a harsh image of these films... they do look much better in place....
Rear cover easily done
Pleased with this area over stock
decent overall appearance
I think I'll stop here... no need to " Over Bling"..
Just got P0174 sounds like a nightmare to troubleshoot (vacuum leak, loose oil cap, MAF, low fuel pressure, clogged injector, cat sensor). I have a Durametric so can monitor live signals and might be able to eliminate some of the possibilities.
Previously recorded Durametric readings while the engine had no CEL. I had a great explanation of RKAT and FRA need to find it and then see what the current numbers are.
Readings before P0174
Ha well my long term gf(almost 9yrs) and I live in different houses, she�d kill me if I did this in her kitchen! My garage is occupied with another project. Also, I love the RSGTs!!!!
I�m resorting a factory 997.1 X51 carbon airbox and we�ve had nothing but rain so I don�t want to apply a 2K clear inside my garage because that stuff is terrible. Unfortunately my ADHD would activate and have me trying to finish the wheels and the airbox� at the same time.
Thank you! 4yrs of waiting!
Ceramic coating in your kitchen- you must have a patient wife Joel 😄🥸 New 88s are beautiful. They're going to look so money.
Finished this half of the rear arms this morning. Thought I was prepared for the
pop
of the ball join separator but it still surprised me.
Originally Posted by
The Radium King
rkat is idle trims
fra is low load trims
frao and frau will always read the same as fra unless in a turbo with wideband o2 sensors
the car does not trim at wot/open loop (no feedback from oem narrow-band o2 sensors to establish trims as ecu richens mixture when engine working hard)
for rkat, values are given as +/- % fuel added, and
you will get cell at +/-4%
for fra, values are given as +/- fuel added from a baseline of 1, and
you will get cell outside of 0.7 to 1.32
Observing my current readings I found something incorrect in the above actually;
you will get cell at +/-6%
. I have a smoke machine on order and when it arrives and when the outside temps cool down we'll see if there are vacuum leaks.
Did the bank two "Hall sensor" (camshaft position sensor) after throwing codes. Definitely one of the easiest projects ever. Top tip: use a 1/4" box end wrench on a 5mm hex socket. I couldn't get any ratchet or wobble/U-joint extension on the screw but this made very quick work of the project. FCP Euro had the part (Bosch) for about $40 less than any other place I'd found it. Nice long-ish test drive and no codes. Ready to roll.
The bank 2 sensor is super easy to get to. From the oil filter housing, � 8" to the front and � 8" outboard (toward passenger rear wheel). Super easy with a lift. The plastic electrical connector was kind of crusty; worked it loose with a flat nylon trim tool.
5mm hex nut. Tough (impossible?) to get with a standard ratchet.
1/4" box end wrench on the 5mm for the win!
This week I upgraded my taillights and backup light. I removed my rear bumper to avoid scratching while I changed the oil filler tube. Oh that was fun.
Changed relay #2 in 2nd relay board on back
Pulled DME and Immobilizer, sent off to.ECO Doctors to test and repair.
Next Tuesday I'm taking it to the body shop to replace my sunroof cassette. I wss shocked at the $2 000 range for a bare assembly. Just a metal frame. Then a cassette with the metal lid popped up for $900. I chatted with the seller, but didn't buy until I was quoted $6 250 for a new one, but they didn't do the installation. Had to be a body shop. I bought the cassette online as I walked out the door.
first drive since Feb. reminded me that I need to get the "failure indicator" resolved. the oil pressure gauge drops, engine is fine, then I get moving and its fine again. also maybe its my hand, as I haven't cranked a key since, other cars are ev the other with push button start and maybe I'm holding it too long or maybe low-ish battery. either way I have to drive this more!
Yesterday's tasks with my 996.1 were: wash, wax, coffee run with my son, took few pictures and placed it to garage to wait for spring - long wait for the next drive with this 996 has begun...
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Randomly looking through my spare parts bin, I found something I ordered from Carbone in Poland.
They sell a carpet kit for the frunk that covers the trim pieces in something more luxurious. It comes in 3 pieces and the fitment is spot on. Originally saw them in Houndstooth but have zero houndstooth in my car so I went with black velour.
Replaced the HVAC screen. The original used to be a lot jankier on the left side though it gradually improved over the past year.
However, for under $25 the eBay version is almost identical. Not quite on the pictograms and text but it�s close enough. The screen also has the proper matte finish that the �replacement� on Amazon did not have.
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Here's what my 996 did to ME today....
Noticed a could of white smoke and immediately pulled over.
Hoping it was just a stupid mistake on my end and I didn't put the coolant reservoir cap on correctly (from what it looks like) from having removed it this past weekend.
Had to get it towed home and will check it out this afternoon
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
